Railways

As the world famous Settle to Carlisle line celebrates 150 years of service, the Mirror joined the 1 m passengers expected this year.

It is widely lauded as one of the best train journeys in the world, and is just about to celebrate its 150th anniversary.

A huge public outcry and an appeal that raised £3m saved it from closure in the 1980s.

The Settle to Carlisle line survived and remains one of the most scenic in the country, crossing the Pennine Hills, the Yorkshire Dales and Cumbria’s Eden Valley.

It celebrates 150 years since its first rail passenger journey with a series of events including a steam train service.

The Mirror joined some of the 1 million passengers expected to travel on the route this year.

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It was wet, wild and stormy as we ventured south from Carlisle to the Ribblehead Viaduct.

Its magnificent 400m arches are 400 meters (1,300 ft) long. A huge workforce of 6,000 men – 2,300 specifically on the Viaduct – built it between 1870 and 1875.

You can imagine the conditions they faced during winter on the wide open moorland surrounding the giant structure.

The navvies who died are buried in the cemetery at Chapel-le-Dale. Even in the pouring rain, the path passing under its 24 arches remains busy with hikers and cyclists.

You must take a short break during your train journey to see the viaduct in all its glory.

From your train seat, you have a breathtaking backdrop of rolling countryside.

Wind bent the trees on the distant hills. The stations are straight out of a 1930s black-and-white film.

“I say that is my office window,” said Yvonne Harland, 52, a Carlisle-based conductor on the route.

“It is absolutely stunning. Many passengers are hikers and dog lovers heading outdoors.

“It does not matter if you are in the valleys around Dent or the Ribblehead Viaduct.

“It is a tonic. You have to get off the train to see the viaduct; otherwise, you only catch a glimpse.

“The Three Peaks are just beautiful too. No disrespect to people who work in an office, but it takes some beating.

“I was in education for 20 years, and I fancied a change.”

Regular passenger Robin Gilder, 83, a retired ITV newsman, remembers the campaign to save the line in the 1980s.

Now he enjoys bringing along his grandson Finley Doran, 12, for days out. “I use it regularly now,” he said. “Especially since I retired.

“They had a dog sign the petition to save the railway and there is a statue to him at Garsdale station.

“There was huge public outcry when they announced they were closing this line.

“They raised millions of pounds to keep it open. So I think we should use it as much as we can.”

Finley, tucking into some sweets and pop, added: “I have been on about twenty times now. We use it all the time.”

For Scottish pharmacist Amy Robertson, it is her maiden journey. The 28-year-old is heading to Leeds to see a former friend with the misty hills rolling by her window.

“It does remind me of Scotland,” she said. “This is really lovely and you get some really nice views when you go up to the north of Scotland around Fort William.

“The weather may not be very good, but the countryside is beautiful.”

Northern recorded 995,000 passenger journeys on the line in 2025, the highest number since the Covid-19 pandemic.

But demand is expected to rise this year. Commercial and customer director Alex Hornby said he was confident passenger numbers would hit 1m.

“Customers can enjoy miles of breathtaking scenery, which changes throughout the year, and there are plenty of opportunities to get off and explore,” he said.

The Settle to Carlisle section of the line was completed in 1875; freight trains ran for a year before passenger trains were introduced on May 1, 1876.

The Settle Carlisle Railway Development Company will run a chartered steam train between Carlisle and York on May 23.

Karen Morley-Chesworth, their community rail officer, told the Mirror: “The Lonely Planet said it was in the Top 10 most scenic railway journeys in Europe.

“So it brings in many tourists and serves local people all year round. It runs down the backbone of Britain through Cumbria, Yorkshire and the Pennines.

“But it is the beauty of it that stays with you; every station takes you back in time, and the history of the line still fascinates people. It remains important to communities all along the route.”

Northern is set to offer £1.50 tickets to customers travelling on the route to mark the milestone.

Thousands of workers contributed to its complex construction, which includes 14 tunnels and more than 20 viaducts along its 72 miles (116km) of track.

In 1983, British Rail announced plans to close the line to passengers amid concerns about the cost of repairing the Ribblehead Viaduct. But £3m was spent between 1988 and 1991 to bring it back into use.

The Settle Carlisle Railway Development Company’s chairman, Pete Myers, said the company was working with communities along the line to mark the “special anniversary year.”

He said: “The Settle to Carlisle line is unique, connecting communities from Yorkshire through to Cumbria, and also providing a sustainable and beautiful way for visitors to explore the Yorkshire Dales, Westmorland Dales and Lake District.”

The Narvik Stockholm night train, officially known as Nattåg 94, connects the Swedish capital with Narvik in Norway, covering more than 1,500 kilometers each way

From my bunk, I watched my wife ease herself from her bed onto the cabin floor before spinning on the spot to face the toilet door. The track lights of somewhere in the Midlands filtered and crept around the edge of the blind, providing enough illumination for her to find the handle and enter.

Unbeknownst to either of us, in stacking our bags inside the cubicle, we’d primed the above-toilet shower to soak my wife and our possessions with an unwanted blast of water the moment she squeezed in.

My half-waking dreams were cut short by her waterlogged wails as the reality of the Caledonian Sleeper quickly put to bed my night train delusions.

I recall this experience not to say the Sleeper, which connects London with the great cities and Highlands of Scotland, is a bad service. In fact, you’d be hard pressed to find a greater joy than looking out the window after a night’s kip on the northbound route to see snowcapped mountains and glistening lochs. Not just that, but it compares very favourably cost-wise to a flight and hotel, while being much less environmentally damaging.

But it is to say that returning to my pillow damp, in a bed far too close to a standard issue National Rail toilet (which the private cabins really don’t need) isn’t the classy, James Bond adjacent experience I’d been expecting. Nor was lifting the blind to a crowd of commuters on a Euston platform at 6am, staring back at my pyjamaed self.

OPINION

Milo Boyd

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So, two years on, it was with a similar sense of trepidation that my wife and I clambered aboard the SJ night train at Stockholm Central Station to take on one of Europe’s longest train journeys.

The Narvik Stockholm night train, officially known as Nattåg 94, connects the Swedish capital with Narvik in Norway, covering more than 1,500 kilometers each way. Departing from Stockholm Central Station in the evening, it takes about 18 hours to complete the trip.

Rather than tacking up the west along the coast of the Gulf of Bothnia, the train shoots straight up from Stockholm, trundling through some of Sweden’s 28 million hectares of forests, as well as flatlands and swamps.

The final stop on the line may be familiar to war history buffs. During WW2, the British Navy entered the Norwegian fjords through the ice-free, Gulf Stream-warmed port of Narvik in pursuit of Nazi ships. They launched a dramatic and comprehensive assault that would be Hitler’s first major strategic defeat of the war.

The reason the Allied and Axis powers threw resources at this far-flung patch of Lapland is iron ore. The northernmost Swedish city of Kiruna is home to the world’s largest underground iron ore mine, which now delivers 90% of all of Europe’s supply. Securing the ore and the trainline that has been delivering it to Narvik since 1902 was crucial for powering both sides’ war machines.

In March, 124 years after the route first opened, I hopped aboard the sleeper to Kiruna – two hours shy of the final stop, but well into the Arctic Circle.

It was, in a word, fantastic.

Upon entering my second-class private cabin, I was worried it’d be a little cramped for my wife and me. However, unlike the Caledonian Sleeper, which has two unmovable beds, the SJ’s three bunks can be flipped back into the wall. When you’re not kipping, the middle can be folded away, making way for a hidden backrest below and turning the bottom bunk into a comfy sofa.

My wife and I lounged in this set-up for the majority of our trip, reading our books and watching the Swedish countryside trundle on by, including the amusingly named town Bastuträsk (sauna swamp).

I would not be as bold as to argue that the Swedish landscape is as beautiful as the Highlands. Its lakes may be bigger and its mountains significantly higher, but there are few places as moving as Rannoch Moor or as stunning as the peak of Mam Ratagan Pass.

But equally, Sweden is no slouch in the beauty stakes, and it’s surprisingly varied. In riding up two-thirds of the country, you’ll see glistening blue lakes turn to great frozen expanses; the four mighty, free-flowing national rivers Torne, Kalix, Pite, and Vindel; more ancient forest than almost anywhere else in Europe; and finally the Kölen mountain range.

The train is certainly not new, but it has a solid, vintage feel that contrasts with some of the slightly flimsy modern trains I’ve ridden on. There was something unusually soothing about the reassuring clunk of the door and the Scandi-design approved clothes hooks. The addition of a Bakelite radio alarm clock above each bed was the cherry on the 70s cake.

Unlike in the Sleeper, where we’d stacked our bags in the bathroom due to a lack of cabin space, two storage racks just below the ceiling kept the gangway clear and the room spacious-feeling.

A similar design divergence came with the toilet. The Caledonian Sleeper’s en-suite option sounds luxurious, but in reality, it’s an unwanted, even unpleasant feature. The shower room doubles as a lavatory, with a heavy, workmanlike lid covering the toilet and serving as a place to perch beneath the stream. There was something a little alarming about sleeping so close to a mechanical, seemingly suction-powered WC, and claggy about steam and shower drizzle drifting into the bedroom.

On the SJ, the idea of an ensuite is abandoned. Instead, the cabins have a mechanical shower keycard, which can be used to open the shower at the end carriage. They have a changing area, a stack of thick, fresh towels, impressive water pressure, and even a hairdryer.

After a surprisingly good night’s sleep and a spruce up in the best on-the-move bathroom I’ve ever experienced, I was feeling fresh and ready to check out the buffet car.

The carriage is divided into four seating areas around solid tables, with windows along the length of the carriage. This, and the ‘påtår’ bottomless tea or coffee system in play, meant there was little else to do but sit back, relax and watch the Arctic slip by.

Book it

The starting price of the SJ night train from Stockholm to Kiruna is 1,125 SEK (£90) for a couchette and 1,695 SEK (£136) for a 2^nd class sleep carriage.

Book at www.sj.se/en

This place deserves far more recognition – it has amazing views, a real sense of community, and a fascinating history too.

There’s genuinely nothing better than those first sunny spring days as we leave winter behind. It immediately makes you crave a visit the seaside, even if there’s still a slight chill and it’s not quite swimming weather yet.

Last weekend, I chose to take advantage of my renewed enthusiasm and positivity for life, and drove to a stunning coastal village that many people have never heard of. Admittedly it’s tiny, and there’s barely anything there, but there’s a welcoming pub and restaurant, breathtaking sea views , and it’s near to another popular seaside destination too. Lower Largo in Fife has a population of approximately 2,300, and it’s one of the most picturesque places I’ve seen.

The compact village overlooks Largo Bay, on the northern side of the Firth of Forth in Scotland. It required roughly an hour and a half to drive from Glasgow, and from Edinburgh, it’s just an hour’s drive away.

Largo is a historic fishing village, divided into two separate sections – Lower and Upper, with the small village of Lundin Links just to the left. Here, you won’t discover amusement arcades or crowds of holidaymakers, and it boasts a far more peaceful atmosphere than other coastal villages I’ve visited lately.

But don’t let the lack of attractions put you off. The more relaxed rhythm of life here was captivating, and already I’m eager for my next opportunity to return.

Waking up to those stunning views was an instant mood-booster, especially when the sun was shining brightly. The chilly temperature didn’t matter – the setting looked perfect, and the fresh coastal air felt wonderfully revitalising, reports the Express.

Lower Largo’s shoreline consists of sand and rocks, and it’s pristine. We noticed plenty of dog walkers enjoying the area, and even saw one brave soul taking a plunge in the sea, which must have felt incredible once she got past the initial cold shock.

The surrounding streets were equally delightful to explore. It’s fairly peaceful, meaning you’ll hardly encounter any traffic, but you will discover some impressively decorated front gardens. The nautical theme ran strong throughout, with garden gates featuring pirates, fish and mermaids.

We had breakfast at The Aurrie, a delightful cafe set within a converted church that offered such a warm and inviting ambience. Artwork from local artists lined the walls and was available to purchase, alongside an excellent range of hot dishes, coffees, and a cake display packed with tempting options. I chose the veggie haggis and potato scone roll with a flat white, and it was absolutely lovely.

During our visit, we also ate at The Crusoe, another wonderfully welcoming four-star hotel featuring a restaurant and pub. It serves all the traditional pub favourites you’d anticipate, from mac and cheese to fish and chips, and my entire family really enjoyed the experience.

Just over the way is the Railway Inn, another pub boasting a real fire that I didn’t manage to pop into, but my parents assured me it was fantastic and the ideal place for a post-dinner drink.

The pub enjoys a prime location right next to an impressive viaduct, now disused but still standing tall. It spans the Keil Burn, and was constructed to serve a section of the Fife Coast Railway Line. It’s been out of service since 1965 due to the reorganisation of British railways known as the Beeching cuts, but it remains a significant landmark and is well worth a look.

Another fascinating aspect of Lower Largo’s past is that it’s actually the birthplace of the man who inspired Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe – hence the hotel’s name.

Born in 1676, Alexander Selkirk was born in the village, and the house that now occupies his birthplace at 99-105 Main Street showcases a life-sized statue of him gazing out towards the horizon.

A signpost at the harbour points in the direction of the Juan Fernández Islands, some 7,500 miles distant, where he spent over four years shipwrecked.

I’m already looking forward to my next trip to Lower Largo. The overall atmosphere of the place was so welcoming, and it’s clear it has a strong sense of community.

It’s the ideal spot to enjoy a peaceful few days, but if you fancy exploring further afield, the beloved coastal town of St Andrews is just a 20-minute drive away.

While it’s best known for its golfing heritage and as the location where Prince William and Princess Catherine first crossed paths, there’s also a wealth of excellent pubs and eateries, bookshops and cafés to discover.