Spain, Greece and Portugal travel warning as rule changes for British tourists
A new border control system is being rolled out at all European airports, including those in Spain, Portugal and Greece, from April 10. The new Entry Exit System (EES) requires British travellers to provide fingerprints and photographs when entering the Schengen Area.
British holidaymakers have been cautioned about potential queues due to the new biometric system, which was first introduced in October at some EU airports. All 29 Schengen countries are now expected to have it fully operational by April.
Some airport organisations have called for an “immediate review” of the Entry Exit System (EES) rollout as it “continues to cause significant delays,” and cautioned that queues for non-EU passengers could stretch to four hours during the summer months.
The Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO) stated: “EES checks are being introduced in a phased way across external borders, with full operation expected from April 10, 2026.”
The Foreign Office suggested that EES might take each passenger a “few minutes extra” to complete and advised they “be prepared to wait longer than usual” at border control, reports the Express.
IN northern Portugal is a beautiful city that was once the home of the country’s very first king.
This year it’s set to become even more popular on the map this year thanks to it being awarded the title of European Green Capital for 2026.
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In the city centre of Guimarães is Toural Square which is filled with cafes and shopsCredit: AlamyThe city of Guimaraes was the birthplace of the first king of PortugalCredit: Alamy
Guimarães is well-known for being the home of the country’s first king who was born there around the year 1109.
Dom Afonso I was the first King of Portugal, he reigned from 1139 until his death in 1185 – and secured Portugal’s independence from the Kingdom of León.
Visitors to the city can to this day see Guimarães Castle, the 10th-century fortress is said to be the actual birthplace of the first Portuguese king.
Tourists are allowed to enter the castle, although it is unfurnished, for around £5.
When it comes to food and drink, one visitor on Tripadvisor wrote that you could pick up wine between €3.75 and €4 (£3.49).
In Northern Portugal, most restaurants and bars will serve ‘fino’, a small draft beer that you can usually pick up for around €2 (£1.74).
Something else to try is Guimarães’ take on Doces conventuais – which are traditional Portuguese desserts.
A Torta de Guimarães is a crescent moon-shaped pastry with a thin, flaky, and crispy puff pastry shell.
It’s filled with a sweet and creamy mixture ofegg yolks,sugar,ground almonds, andchila(gila) squash jam.
Any bakery in the city is likely to sell Tortas de Guimarães which you can usually pick up for around €3 (£2.62).
Guimarães isLargo do Toural is at the the heart of the city. The central square was once used as a market and now has vibrant cafes.
For some incredible views, head up to the cable car which connects the city centre to the summit of the nearby Monte da Penha.
It travels up 1700 meters so you can get incredible views across the whole region.
At the very top is the Penha Sanctuary, a modern, art-deco-style church.
The Guimarães Cable Car typically costs €10 (£8.72) for a return.
For incredible views of Guimaraes, head up the cable carCredit: AlamyAt the top of the cable car is the Penha SanctuaryCredit: Alamy
This year, Guimarães has been named European Green Capital for 2026.
Part of the reason Guimarães was selected for this was its green spaces – between 2012 and 2023, the city added 95.7 hectares of natural spaces.
This includes along the main rivers and in its forests.
If you want to see it for yourself, Guimarães has a Green Map which takes visitors from Penha Mountain into the city.
Along with it, events are being held all year – Guimarães will host its spring festival in late March where there’s a 10km race through the city.
In April it will hold a three-day contemporary dance festival and the city will take part in Green Week in June as well as Mobility Week in September.
For Brits, the best way to get to Guimarães is by flying to Porto – which is around 25 miles away.
From there, you can hop on a direct bus which takes just 35 minutes and costs £5.
Here’s another quaint Portuguese canal city with white-sand beaches and cheap wine…
For striped houses that look like giant beach huts and beautiful stretches of coastline – head to Aveiro.
The city in Portugal sits on the west coast and is much less known than its neighbour – Porto – and is considered to be the country’s ‘Venice‘.
Along with its waterways, Aveiro is known for its beautiful waterfront houses, bars and boat tours.
The city is built around water including the Ria de Aveiro which is a shallow coastal lagoon – and throughout Aveiro are lots of canals.
The largest is Canal Central de Aveiro, right in the city centre and it’s here where tourists can hop onto a boat and take a river cruise.
Dotted along the water are the brightly coloured Moliceiro boats which were historically used to collect seaweed.
Now, these are used for leisure tours which you can book from €13 (£11.22).
A local pint will set you back just €2.75 (£2.38).
Just a short trip from Aveiro is the Bairrada Region Proximity, which produces plenty of sparkling and red wine, so the city is also perfect for wine lovers.
It is an excellent hub for exploring vineyards on reasonably priced tours, and bars and restaurants in the city centre offer glasses from as little as €2.30 (£2).
Aveiro is known for a local delicacy called ‘ovos moles’ – these traditional Portuguese pastries are essentially a sweet, creamy egg yolk and sugar mixture inside a thin wafer shell.
You can pick these up in local cafes or bakeries for around €1.60 (£1.38) each – and if you treat yourself to a coffee, it will cost as little as €2.16 (£1.87).
BBC Sport charts the rise of exciting young forward Mateus Mane – from his childhood in Portugal, to moving to Manchester and now making waves with Wolves
Portugal is a firm favourite with Brits, and the capital city of Lisbon is one of the cheapest city breaks in Europe – and it’s less than 3 hours from the UK
Lisbon in Portugal has some of the cheapest drinks in Europe(Image: Getty)
Whilst the city might be viewed as a less conventional destination, it features filter coffees for under £1.25, whilst beer in the Portuguese capital is “among some of the cheapest in Europe”. A glass of wine will meanwhile set travellers back £1.93 in Lisbon, compared to roughly £9.86 in destinations such as Oslo in Norway.
Speaking on Channel 4’s Bargain Holiday Secrets, A Place in the Sun presenter Jasmine Harman commented: “It really pays to do your research. The capital city of Portugal has all the charm you could ask for but it’s one of the cheapest city breaks out there though it may not be your ideal destination.”
During the summer, temperatures can climb as high as 28C in Lisbon. The city also remains dry for much of the year, with the majority of rainfall occurring between November and February.
A flight from London to Lisbon takes roughly between 2hrs 30minutes and 2hrs 55minutes. And on SkyScanner, flights from London to the city are available from just £49 next month.
The Portuguese capital has no shortage of attractions either. As one of the world’s most ancient cities, trailing only Athens in age, Lisbon showcases millennia of heritage, with the Castle of São Jorge hailed as an “unmissable” must-see.
Perched at the city’s highest elevation, the castle nestles within Lisbon’s most authentic neighbourhoods. Meanwhile, the Terreiro do Paço stands as the capital’s emblematic square, reconstructed in 1755 after a catastrophic earthquake devastated the area.
Visit Lisbon recommends the square for a “very pleasant walk” beside the River Tagus during late afternoon hours, noting: “It is also a very beautiful view from the river as you pass on a boat.”
Downtown, the remarkable Santa Justa elevator represents another essential stop. Crafted by celebrated architect Gustav Eiffel, this lift provides breathtaking panoramas across the city’s historic quarters.
Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites grace Lisbon – the Jerónimos Monastery and the Tower of Belém. Commissioned by King Manuel I, the monastery exemplifies the elaborate Manueline architectural tradition characteristic of the capital.
After dark, Lisbon truly comes alive. Travellers can browse boutiques in the fashionable Chiado neighbourhood before savouring dinner in the lively Bairro Alto district.
Culture enthusiasts, meanwhile, can explore the national tile museum or the coach museum. Portugal’s distinctive Fado musical tradition has also garnered international acclaim.
The music, typically featuring a vocalist accompanied by a guitarist, frequently echoes through the cobbled streets of Alfama, Mouraria or Madragoa. Meanwhile, the fado vadio tradition commonly sees an amateur performer take the lead, with guitar players joining in spontaneously.
Who: Real Madrid vs Benfica What: Champions League playoff, second leg Where: Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid, Spain When: Wednesday at 9pm (20:00 GMT) How to follow: We’ll have all the build-up on Al Jazeera Sport from 17:00 GMT in advance of our live text commentary stream.
Real Madrid carry a slender 1-0 lead over Benfica going into the second leg of a Champions League playoff tie that has been overshadowed by allegations of racism.
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UEFA has suspended Benfica midfielder Gianluca Prestianni from the second leg on Wednesday after he was accused of racially abusing Real Madrid’s Vinicius Jr, who scored the only goal in the first game in Lisbon last week.
Meanwhile, Benfica coach Jose Mourinho, who is also suspended for the second leg, has come under fire for criticising Vinicius for his effusive goal celebration.
So the Portuguese side will be expecting an especially hostile welcome at the Bernabeu as they try to overturn their one-goal deficit and reach the last 16.
Vinicius Jr confronts Prestianni during the first leg at the Estadio Da Luz in Lisbon on February 17, 2026 [Eric Verhoeven/Soccrates/Getty Images]
Courtois ‘disappointed’ in Mourinho’s response
Vinicius wrote that “racists are above all cowards” on social media after the game while Madrid striker Kylian Mbappe backed his teammate and said he had heard Prestianni calling the winger a “monkey”.
The 20-year-old Benfica midfielder, who hid his mouth with his shirt during the confrontation with Vinicius, insisted he did not racially abuse the Brazilian forward after his stunning goal at the Estadio da Luz.
Prestianni could miss at least 10 games if European football’s governing body finds he racially abused Vinicius.
Mourinho waded into the controversy by saying Vinicius’s goal celebration was disrespectful and insisting Benfica was not a racist club because their biggest icon, Eusebio, was Black.
Madrid goalkeeper Thibaut Courtois said he disagreed with Mourinho’s words.
“At the end of the day, Mourinho is Mourinho. As a coach, you’re always, I think, going to defend your club and what your player has told you,” Courtois said.
“The only thing that disappoints me a bit is using Vini’s celebration. I don’t think Vini did anything wrong there,” he added.
“I don’t think we can justify alleged racism because of a celebration.”
Mourinho’s Bernabeu homecoming upended by suspension
Benfica’s boss has not set foot in the Santiago Bernabeu since leaving Real Madrid in 2013, and he cannot sit in the dugout for the playoff’s second leg after being sent off during his team’s 1-0 first-leg defeat in Lisbon last week for making vituperative complaints about the officials from the touchline.
Mourinho said referee Francois Letexier was avoiding booking Madrid players who were at risk of suspension for the second leg.
“I’ve had my butt on the bench for 1,400 games and [I could see that] he knew perfectly well who he could book and who he couldn’t,” Mourinho complained bitterly.
“I [won’t be] sitting on the bench. I can’t go to the dressing room. I can’t communicate with the team,” he added. “It’s hard for me, but my teammates and my assistants are there. They’ll do their job.”
Benfica also said Mourinho was not going to attend the pregame news conference on Tuesday and his assistant would take over.
Mourinho is shown a red card by Letexier during the first leg [Angel Martinez/Getty Images]
Arbeloa says UEFA have chance for ‘turning point’ against racism
Real Madrid coach Alvaro Arbeloa called on UEFA to make their fight against racism into more than just a slogan after the alleged abuse of Vinicius Jr.
“We have a great opportunity to mark a turning point in the fight against racism,” Arbeloa told reporters on Tuesday.
“UEFA, which has always been and has led this fight against racism, now has the chance not to leave it at just a slogan, at just a nice banner before matches, and I hope that they seize this opportunity.”
Arbeloa said he believed Vinicius will thrive on Wednesday at the Santiago Bernabeu as the record 15-time champions bid to reach the last 16.
“Vinicius Jr has always shown a lot of bravery and a lot of character,” Arbeloa said. “That is always his response. It always has been, and I think it always will be.
“He is a fighter, and I’m sure tomorrow he will go out to fight and have a great game and keep showing he’s one of the best players on the planet.”
Head-to-head
This is only the sixth meeting between two of the biggest clubs from Spain and Portugal. Benfica have won three of the games while Real Madrid have won two.
The two clubs also faced each other in a league stage match in January when Mourinho’s team stunned his former club in a 4-2 win that allowed Benfica to qualify and prevented Madrid from automatically reaching the round of 16.
How many times have Madrid and Benfica won the Champions League?
Madrid are the record winners of Europe’s premier club competition with 15 titles to their name, the last coming in 2024.
Benfica have lifted the trophy on two occasions, and both of those came in consecutive years.
In what was regarded as Benfica’s golden era, Portuguese legend Eusebio helped the team to wins against Barcelona in 1961 and Real Madrid in 1962.
A hat-trick from Hungary’s finest export, Ferenc Puskas, could not save Madrid as Benfica earned a 5-3 win that included a double from Eusebio.
Vinicius Jr scores a brilliant goal in the first leg against Benfica [Pedro Nunes/Reuters]
Real Madrid’s team news
Jude Bellingham, Dani Ceballos and Eder Militao have all been ruled out through injuries while centre back Dean Huijsen, who missed the 2-1 defeat at Osasuna over the weekend with a muscular problem, is a major doubt.
Winger Rodrygo will be unavailable due to a suspension but would anyway be a doubt as he struggles to recover from a hamstring issue.
Raul Asencio is available again after returning from suspension.
Vinicius Jr will be looking to score for the fifth game in a row as he is set to start up front alongside Mbappe.
A breathtaking tropical paradise that is warm all year — it’s the perfect affordable winter retreat for UK residents boasting unspoilt beaches, sparkling turquoise waters and jaw-dropping scenery.
It’s an island of unmatched beauty(Image: Getty)
A stunning sun-soaked paradise has been dubbed “unfairly beautiful” by visitors who simply cannot contain their admiration for its remarkable and diverse splendour.
Brimming with vibrancy, vivid colours, and rich culture, this radiant island basks in warmth throughout the year, cementing its status as the ultimate tropical escape for holidaymakers.
Striking landscapes, unspoilt beaches, sparkling turquoise waters and jaw-dropping scenery are just a handful of the treasures this enchanting destination has to offer.
With temperatures reaching 20C during February and March, this charming Portuguese gem is the ultimate winter bolt-hole for people living in the UK, desperate to flee the biting cold and relentless drizzle of the darker months, reports the Express.
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Travellers keen to beat the bag charges without breaking the budget have made an Amazon travel bag a bestseller. Rated 4.7 stars out of 5 from almost 3,000 reviews, the Xkdoai bag comes in six colours with prices from £14.99, saving 29% on the usual price.
Drawing comparisons to other world-renowned beauty spots, one Reddit user has hailed it as “Europe’s Hawaii”, whilst another described the island as “both Bali and Thailand… a place of amazing beauty.”
An autonomous region of Portugal – one of just two alongside the Azores archipelago – Madeira is a spectacular destination packed with a wealth of activities and experiences for visitors to savour.
Getting there is a doddle – a direct one-way flight from London Luton Airport to Madeira Airport on both February 23 and March 2 costs just £33, with one cabin bag included. And the icing on the cake? The average price of a pint of beer in Madeira is a mere £2.10.
Located approximately 805 kilometres southwest of mainland Portugal, Madeira is regarded as Portugal’s southernmost territory and rests upon the African Tectonic Plate. The Madeira Archipelago comprises Madeira and Porto Santo (the only inhabited islands) alongside the uninhabited Desertas Islands and Savage Islands (Selvagens).
One Reddit user described Madeira as “an unfairly beautiful island, such a great place to explore”, whilst another declared, “Madeira is the most beautiful place in Europe.”
Another impressed visitor remarked about this tropical haven, “Madeira is spectacular and worth it,” with yet another sharing, “Visited in the fall and I think about this place every day.”
Things to do on this unique island getaway
Brimming with unspoilt beaches, Madeira represents paradise for seaside enthusiasts.
Calheta Beach, one of two man-made golden sand beaches in Madeira featuring sand transported from North Africa, ranks amongst the island’s most frequented destinations.
Positioned on the southwest coastline and boasting two sheltered bays – it’s perfectly suited for swimming and water activities including paddleboarding and kayaking.
The other celebrated artificial sand beach in Madeira is Machico Beach, an expansive sandy haven ideal for those seeking to unwind and relax.
The Natural Pools of Porto Moniz are yet another gem in this Portuguese island’s impressive collection of attractions, widely regarded as the standout highlights of the island’s northern coastline.
Forged from volcanic activity, these remarkable pools were shaped by cooling lava over thousands of years, their unique natural formation enabling a continuous flow of fresh seawater to replenish them. At just three euros (£2.62) per person entry, visitors have described it as “a truly unique experience”.
One Tripadvisor reviewer enthused about the natural pools: “Wow factor, The water is crystal clear and you can see the volcanic surface and there are colourful tropical fish everywhere, really beautiful pool.”
Another unmissable destination on the island is Seixal Beach – a breathtaking natural black sand beach celebrated for its striking verdant backdrop, sheer cliffs and the magnificent cascading waterfall, Miradouro do Veu da Noiva, which tumbles directly into the sea in a truly spectacular fashion.
Funchal, the bustling historic capital of Madeira, is equally deserving of exploration, with the Old Town (Zona Velha), Monte Cable Car & Toboggan Ride, the Monte Palace Tropical Garden, and the Mercado dos Lavradores market all ranking amongst the most celebrated attractions this captivating city has to offer.
Virtually untouched since its discovery over five centuries ago in 1419, the Laurissilva of Madeira is a 20-million year old forest and UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its remarkable biodiversity, unique flora and fauna, and its ancient, mist-shrouded evergreen landscape that acts as a crucial ecological water source for the island.
Nestled within the Madeira Natural Park, a protected zone encompassing approximately two-thirds of the island’s land, a stroll through this forest offers visitors a genuinely extraordinary experience.
Pico do Areeiro – the island’s third-tallest peak and a prime spot for catching the sunrise – is another essential destination for anyone visiting this tropical haven, particularly hiking fans.
Indeed, the trek from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo provides an exhilarating mountain adventure in Madeira, linking the island’s three loftiest peaks whilst delivering breathtaking panoramic views.
No discussion of Madeira would be complete without mentioning its eponymous wine, with Funchal, the village of Câmara de Lobos, and the adjacent island of Porto Santo recognised as the premier locations for wine tastings and vineyard excursions.
Visitors can easily catch one of the daily ferries from Madeira to Porto Santo and spend a night or two on Madeira’s companion island, which is equally brimming with thrilling activities and spectacular scenery.
Madeira is a dazzling jewel hiding in plain sight, offering something special for every kind of traveller to discover.
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Real Madrid’s Brazilian forward Vinicius Jr alleges he was racially abused by Benfica’s Gianluca Prestianni.
Published On 19 Feb 202619 Feb 2026
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Real Madrid has sent UEFA, football’s governing body in Europe, “all available evidence” of an alleged racist insult against Vinicius Jr in a Champions League match against Benfica.
“Our club has actively collaborated with the investigation opened by UEFA following the unacceptable episodes of racism experienced during that match,” the Spanish club said on Thursday without elaborating on the evidence.
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UEFA appointed a special investigator on Wednesday to gather evidence about what happened in Lisbon on Tuesday in Madrid’s 1-0 win at Benfica in the first leg of the knockout round of the Champions League.
Vinicius accused Benfica player Gianluca Prestianni of calling him “monkey” after the Brazilian scored the only goal. Prestianni was among the Benfica players upset with Vinícius after the forward celebrated by the Benfica corner flag.
Prestianni covered his mouth with his shirt when he allegedly spoke to the Brazilian player and denied racially abusing Vinicius, who is Black and has been subjected to repeated racist insults in Spain.
“Real Madrid appreciates the unanimous support, backing, and affection that our player Vinicius Jr. has received from all areas of the global football community,” the club said. “Real Madrid will continue working, in collaboration with all institutions, to eradicate racism, violence, and hate in sports and society.”
Benfica said Prestianni was the victim of a “defamation campaign” and welcomed the investigation opened by UEFA, saying it “fully supports and believes the version presented” by Prestianni.
FIFA President Gianni Infantino said on Wednesday he was “shocked and saddened to see the incident of alleged racism” and praised the referee for activating the antiracism protocol during the match, which was halted for nearly 10 minutes at the Stadium of Light.
Navigating the high slopes of Portugal’s Serra da Estrela in midwinter requires serious negotiation with the elements, but my guide, João Pedro Sousa, makes it look simple. Angling his lean frame into the wind, he digs his plastic snow-shoes into a steep drift and pauses, scanning the white ridgeline. He’s looking for mariolas– small cairns of rocks, fused by ice, that will indicate our onward trail. “The landscape changes every day so you have to learn how to read it afresh,” he says, setting off again. “At this time of year, nature is a true artist.”
I plod inelegantly in his wake, still clumsy in the frames clipped to my boots to keep me from sinking into the powder. At a quartzite outcrop rippled with rose and amber, we pause and drink in the view. Below us, cupped in the glacial scar of the Zêzere valley, is the terracotta-roofed town of Manteigas – founded in the 12th century and today the modest hub for tourism in the region. Ahead, on the horizon, João Pedro points out mainland Portugal’s highest peak, the 1,993-metre Torre, home to a small ski resort suited to beginners. “This region is full of surprises,” he grins.
As head of activities for Casa das Penhas Douradas, a design-led hotel created in 2006 and inspired by Alpine lodges, João Pedro leads treks through the massif in all seasons. More than 100 miles of trails extend from the property, following old shepherd paths into pine forests, around lagoons and across barren passes stacked with huge granite boulders – the remnants of the last ice age, scattered like a giant’s abandoned toys. This is wild country – recognised in 2020 by Unesco as a global geopark for its remarkable biodiversity and geology – but the human story is equally rich.
Guide João Pedro Sousa on one of the trails that follow old shepherd paths. Photograph: Amelia Duggan
The hotel is a renovated 100-year-old sanatorium, its 17 birch-panelled rooms and suites gazing eastwards to the rising sun. All have vast sliding windows and doors to let in the curative mountain air during the milder months. Down the main corridor, leading from one log fire-warmed sitting room to another, a gallery of sepia photographs remembers the pioneering 1881 expedition by the Lisbon Geographic Society to this high plateau, looking for a place to treat the scourge of tuberculosis.
“The refined air, pure water and protein-rich diet here worked wonders for patients. For a period at the start of the 20th century, this was Portugal’s answer to the Swiss health resorts of St Moritz or Davos,” João Pedro tells me when we are back at the lodge, warming up with apple cake and carqueja mountain tea. The chalets peppering the surrounding slopes certainly look as if they have been plucked from northern Europe, with steep roofs, sunrooms and occasional fairytale flourishes, like finials or turrets. “Built from stone, not timber, though,” João Pedro clarifies. “The style is mixed with our Lusitanian mountain architecture.”
For the rest of my stay, the Serra is a violently shaken snow globe, the whiteout preventing safe hiking and forcing a thorough exploration of the hotel instead. I shuffle between the indoor sauna and bath-temperature swimming pool; seek out the resident masseuse for a thoroughly undeserved sports massage; and indulge in a series of three-course meals where I sample the region’s famous Iberian pork – always tender and expertly sauced. Afternoons are seen out with a glass of port and a well-thumbed tome on mountaineering from the library, a lived-in space charmingly decorated with antique skiing paraphernalia. The pièce de résistance of the property? The Nordic-style wooden hot tub, which I book for a late-night soak after the storm subsides, the stars winking down at me through spindrift and steam.
A lounge with a view in Casa das Penhas Douradas. Photograph: Luis Pinheiro
As well as injecting some panache into the local tourism scene, I discover the founders of the hotel have been pivotal in saving a dying mountain craft: burel fabric, a thick, water-resistant weave made from bordaleira sheep’s wool and used for shepherds’ capes since the middle ages. “I fell in love with the local material when creating the upholstery for the hotel – it’s amazingly tough and versatile,” owner Isabel Costa tells me, as we tour her warehouse of whirring antique looms on the outskirts of Manteigas. “Nine textile mills had already gone out of business when this one closed – I knew we had to buy it.”
In 2010, the mill reopened as the Burel Factory, with a fresh directive: vibrant colours, modern designs and new applications as tactile wall art and furniture coverings, as well as fashion. Isabel was able to rehire experienced artisans, who in turn trained a new generation of craftspeople. I meet some of them in the Room of Light, where workers stand before great windows reeling bolts of cloth to check for skipped stitches. “Generations of Manteigas women have worked in this business,” seamstress Marta Neves tells me. “It’s delicate work, and with the quantity of bespoke commissions now coming in, every day is different.”
The hotel is decorated with antique skiing paraphernalia. Photograph: José Vicente
Owing to the success of her initial projects, Isabel was able to expand further, opening the town’s first five-star hotel in 2018, Casa de São Lourenço, with a third property currently in the works. The fabric of local life has been rewoven in the process: with expanding job opportunities, young people are choosing to stay and build lives. The local school has even reopened. Today, burel shops sit on Lisbon and Porto’s most upmarket thoroughfares, popularising a native art form – and a destination – long overlooked. “It was my husband who first fell in love with Manteigas. The nature, the people – it’s like nowhere else in Portugal,” Isabel says.
I stay on in the small town itself, checking into Casa das Obras, a time-warp mansion that has been in the noble Ribeiro de Portugal family since its construction between 1770 and 1825, serving as a guesthouse for the past two decades. Here, history is palpable. Stern-looking ancestors of the current owner, Maria Amélia, look down from oil paintings lining the monumental stone staircase. Lower chambers include a tapestried billiards room and bar, while the upstairs breakfast room – a living museum of antiques, trinkets and heavy drapes – boasts original ceiling art. The bedrooms are underwhelming in comparison, but there’s a pretty garden blooming with camellias, and the location is unbeatably central.
Manteigas. Photograph: Tolo Balaguer/Alamy
Not that there’s too much of Manteigas to explore. One twisting lane of commerce offers up a souvenir shop stacked with knitted socks and wool slippers; a bakery famous for creating the town’s signature sweet treat, the syrupypastel de feijoca; and a couple of delis selling wheels of creamy Serra de Estrela sheep’s cheese. The great treasure of the town is its looks, its cobbled streets and snow-dusted churches framed in all directions by dramatic valleys and forested peaks, all seemingly ripped from a storybook.
Come summer, the community will be humming with hikers and adrenaline junkies – biking, paragliding, climbing and ATV buggy rides can all be organised here, with information at the little tourist office. But for now, during its coldest months, Manteigas insists on visitors slowing down – filling their lungs with crisp air, lining their stomachs with hearty cuisine and exploring scenic mountain trails when Mother Nature allows.
The trip was supported by Casa das Penhas Douradas, where rooms start at €189 B&B, including guided hikes and a tour of the Burel Factory. Rooms at Casa das Obras start at €55 B&B. Manteigas can be reached via taxi (30min) or twice-daily bus from the town of Belmonte, which is connected to Lisbon by direct train (3h 50min).
Vinicius Jr scored a sublime second-half winner as Real Madrid beat Benfica 1-0 in their Champions League playoff first leg, a night overshadowed by the Brazilian accusing Benfica’s Gianluca Prestianni of directing a racist slur at him.
The alleged incident occurred moments after Vinicius had curled Real ahead, five minutes into the second half at the Estadio da Luz on Tuesday, before referee Francois Letexier halted the match for 11 minutes under FIFA’s anti-racism protocol.
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Television pictures showed the Argentinian winger covering his mouth with his shirt before making a comment that Vinicius and nearby teammates interpreted as a racial slur against the 25-year-old, who has repeatedly suffered racism in Spain during matches.
“It is unbelievable that, with dozens of cameras in the stadium, that none could have caught [Prestianni’s] racial slur, but if you cover your mouth to say something, that says a lot,” Real captain Federico Valverde told Movistar Plus.
“According to my teammates who were close, they heard something very ugly. Many people have been fighting against racism in football; Vinicius is one of them. I’m proud of him and his great game.”
The Associated Press news agency reported that television cameras picked up Vinicius Junior telling the referee that Prestianni had called him a “monkey”.
Benfica began the game on the front foot, but the visitors gradually assumed control while the hosts appeared content to counterattack, with goalkeeper Thibaut Courtois producing a stunning one-handed save to keep out a 25th-minute strike from Fredrik Aursnes.
Real finished the first half strongly, and only goalkeeper Anatoliy Trubin’s brilliance kept the score goalless at the break as he produced stunning saves to deny Kylian Mbappe and Arda Guler.
The breakthrough came five minutes after the restart. Mbappe burst forward and fed Vinicius on the left. The Brazilian cut diagonally towards the box, shifted inside and unleashed an unstoppable curling shot into the far top corner.
Vinicius celebrated by dancing with the corner flag and was booked by Letexier for excessive celebration.
As the forward argued with the referee, he became involved in a heated exchange with Prestianni, with Vinicius and several teammates suddenly running towards the referee.
Letexier crossed his arms in front of his face to activate FIFA’s protocol and stopped the match. Real’s players threatened to leave the pitch as tensions flared, before play eventually resumed 11 minutes later.
The atmosphere turned hostile, with Vinicius loudly booed whenever he touched the ball, and the broadcast camera appeared to show an outraged Mbappe calling Prestianni “a bloody racist” to his face several times after the game resumed.
Tempers flared again in the 85th minute, when Vinicius fouled Richard Rios. Benfica manager Jose Mourinho stormed towards the fourth official, demanding a second booking for the Brazilian, but was himself cautioned for his protests.
An incensed Mourinho continued remonstrating, and was promptly shown a second yellow card.
Mourinho is shown a red card after directing some choice words at the officials [Angel Martinez/Getty Images]
Benfica pushed late on, but managed only three shots on target as Real secured a slender advantage to take back to Madrid for the return leg.
Real Madrid coach Alvaro Arbeloa decried the alleged abuse against Vinicius Junior.
“I think everyone can see what happened with Prestianni,” he said.
Arbeloa added, “We have to fight against this type of attitude”, and, “If we don’t respect each other, then it is a problem”.
Madrid right-back Trent Alexander-Arnold told Amazon Prime that what allegedly happened during the match was a “disgrace to football” and overshadowed the performance and an amazing goal.
“Vini has been subject to this a few times throughout his career,” he said. “To ruin a night like this for our team is a disgrace. There is no place for it in football or society. It is disgusting.”
Mourinho criticised Vinicius Junior’s celebration and defended the club – if not Prestianni – against allegations of racism.
“Words were exchanged. I want to be independent. I don’t want to say I believe in Prestianni or believe in Vinicius,” he said.
“I told [Vinicius], ‘When you score a goal like that, you just celebrate in a respectful way’. When he was arguing about racism, I told him the biggest person [Eusebio] in the history of this club was Black. This club, the last thing that it is, is racist.”
Galatasaray thrash Juve 5-2
Elsewhere on Tuesday, Dutch midfielder Noa Lang scored a brace as Galatasaray thumped Juventus 5-2 in a pulsating contest in Istanbul in the first leg of a Champions League playoff.
In a nerve-shredding atmosphere, Luciano Spalletti’s Juventus actually led 2-1 at half-time after Teun Koopmeiners replied to Brazilian midfielder Gabriel Sara’s opener with a brace of his own.
But Colombian full-back Juan Cabal was dismissed for two bookings in a calamitous second half for the Italian side, as Lang’s brace and goals from Davinson Sanchez and Sacha Boey sunk Juventus.
Meanwhile, Champions League holders Paris Saint Germain overcame a horror start and a two-goal deficit to beat 10-man Monaco 3-2 away in the first leg of their knockout round playoff tie.
Desire Doue came off the bench to engineer an impressive turnaround for PSG, who conceded a goal in the opening minute and were 2-0 down after 18 minutes as Folarin Balogun grabbed a double for the hosts.
The 20-year-old Doue replaced Ballon d’Or winner Ousmane Dembele, who went off injured after 27 minutes, and proved decisive for the visitors as he struck two superb goals, as well as setting one up for Achraf Hakimi.
In Germany, striker Serhou Guirassy scored one goal and created another as hosts Borussia Dortmund claimed a 2-0 victory over Italian visitors Atalanta in the first leg of their Champions League playoff tie on Tuesday.
