McALLEN, Texas — The Trump administration is seeking to end an immigration policy cornerstone that since the 1990s has offered protections to child migrants in federal custody, a move that will be challenged by advocates, according to a court filing Thursday.
The protections in place, known as the Flores Settlement, largely limit to 72 hours the amount of time that child migrants traveling alone or with family are detained by the U.S. Border Patrol. They also ensure the children are kept in safe and sanitary conditions.
President Trump tried to end the protections during his first term and his allies have long railed against it. The court filing, submitted jointly by the administration and advocates, says the government plans to detail its arguments later Thursday and propose a hearing on July 18 before U.S. District Judge Dolly Gee.
The settlement is named for a Salvadoran girl, Jenny Flores, whose lawsuit alleging widespread mistreatment of children in custody in the 1980s prompted special oversight.
In August 2019, the first Trump administration asked a judge to dissolve the agreement. Its motion eventually was struck down in December 2020 by the 9th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals.
Under the Biden administration, oversight protections for child migrants were lifted for the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services after new guidelines were put in place last year.
The Department of Homeland Security is still beholden to the agreement, including Customs and Border Protection, which detains and processes children after their arrival in the U.S. with or without their parents. Children then are usually released with their families or sent to a shelter operated by Health and Human Services, though processing times often go up when the number of people entering increases in a short period.
Even with the agreement in place, there have been instances where the federal government failed to provide adequate conditions for children, as in a case in Texas where nearly 300 children had to be moved from a Border Patrol facility following reports they were receiving inadequate food, water and sanitation.
Court-appointed monitors provide oversight of the agreement and report noncompliant facilities to Gee. Customs and Border Protection was set to resume its own oversight, but in January a federal judge ruled it was not ready and extended the use of court-appointed monitors for another 18 months.
“Conan O’Brien Must Go” wraps it’s three-episode second season on Thursday with a trip to Austria.
(Pamela Littky / Max)
If we had planned it better (and had the budget for it), this interview with Conan O’Brien would been better suited to happen in Vatican City rather than a Zoom room.
Our conversation coincided with the start of the papal conclave, the hush-hush assembly of cardinals who gathered to elect a successor to Pope Francis, and O’Brien can’t help but reference the event when explaining his slight delay: “Sorry, it took me a second to figure out there was a passcode to get into this secret room,” he says. “It felt like I was joining a conclave.”
“I think you and I should put our own vote in,” he continues. “Why can’t they listen to us? Are you paying attention? Are you rooting for somebody?”
“I’m not rooting for anyone except Stanley Tucci,” I tell him, referring to the actor’s turn as a shrewd and calculated cardinal in last year’s “Conclave.”
“I love that you want Tucci. I love that you blurred the line between reality and drama.” (As we know by now, Cardinal Robert Prevost was elected as the first U.S.-born pontiff, taking the name Pope Leo XIV. Sorry, Tucci.)
Absorbing the scene outside St. Peter’s Basilica alongside thousands of visitors from around the world is the sort of thing O’Brien and his crew might revel in on his Max travel show “Conan O’Brien Must Go.” The series, which will conclude its three-episode second season on Thursday, plays like a video postcard of silly and enlightening adventures as O’Brien travels around the world to meet with fans and experience different cultures. It carries on the tradition from his talk show era of international getaways and blends it with his podcast “Conan O’Brien Needs a Friend.”
Conan O’Brien and Javier Bardem in Season 2 of “Conan O’Brien Must Go.”
(Team Coco / Max)
After venturing to Norway, Ireland, Thailand and Argentina in the show’s debut season, the second landed him in Spain, where hijinx included cuddling with actor Javier Bardem and doing Spanish voice-overs, and New Zealand, where he got lessons from one of Aotearoa’s leading cultural advisors and attempted to break a haka world record with filmmaker and actor Taika Waititi. It culminates with this week’s finale, which was filmed in Austria.
At this moment, he’s not on the go. He is beaming in from his home in Pacific Palisades, which he recently returned to after months of living in a hotel while smoke remediation and other restorative measures took place in the wake of January’s wildfires.
“We were so lucky, crazy lucky,” he says. “We live far enough so that we don’t have that thing where you walk out your front door and it looks like you’re on the moon.”
It’s one reason why the season is truncated: “Initially we were going to do four [episodes], but between my parents passing away and the Oscars and the fires, we just were like, ‘We could do three.’ I hope it doesn’t feel too short to people, but this is what we could do this time around.”
O’ Brien discussed standout moments from this season of “Conan O’Brien Must Go,” which has been renewed for a third season, his plans for his Mark Twain Prize for American Humor and making his feature film debut.
You cuddled with Javier Bardem. You did Spanish voice–overs. You dressed as Freud. You went to the snow globe museum. What moment stood out for you from these trips?
You can’t cuddle with Javier Bardem and wipe it from your memory. Be you man, be you woman — I don’t care which. It doesn’t matter. He crosses over all gender barriers. It was really fun to be in these ridiculous pajamas. A highlight with him is, there’s a scene where we’re eating together in a restaurant and we’re doing improv together. I’ve done improv with all the best improvisers in entertainment, he’s as good as anybody.
I loved being on the hill where Julie Andrews did “The Sound of Music.” And one of our writers, Jose Arroyo, wrote — obviously, you can’t do that song — this song about how we can’t do the song, which I loved and it’s one of the things I love to do, is come close to the thing. Like on the Oscars, do a musical number called “I won’t waste your time” — I love doing the thing and making it about not doing the thing. I have to say, [dressing up as] Freud was a standout, because I think I went a little insane. Sometimes when you put me in makeup and dress me up, I become the thing that I’m pretending to be.
And doing the haka [a traditional dance form of the Māori people] in New Zealand with thousands and thousands of people. I thought we were just going to do it once. As we’re doing it, I’m finding out in real time — because, you know me, when I do something, I do it 110% whether it’s going on “Hot Ones” or dancing the haka, I will put all the dials to 11 — so when I start dancing, I’m going all out and I’ve got Taika and I’ve got this whole crowd with me. Then I realized they’re not stopping. They’re doing it over and over and over again and you can’t stop because you’re in a stadium. When that was done, I felt like I needed to go to the hospital.
Conan O’Brien in lederhosen in the season finale of “Conan O’Brien Must Go,” which has the host traveling to Austria.
(Max)
When you come up that hilltop in the lederhosen, I just thought, “What would Martin Short have to say about these shorts?”
Oh my God, you’re right. Marty Short would have 1,000 jokes about my legs: spam, freckles, pale. He would just be an immediate encyclopedia. I have to make sure that that episode does not air in Toronto, because I think he goes to Toronto for the summer.
A moment that killed me was at the snow globe museum when you asked about that life-size doll on the shelf, and the woman said it’s her father. But that wasn’t the best part. When you asked what his best advice for her was, and she said, to “f— around as much as possible as long as you’re not married.”
What’s fun is it reminds me of that thing that I’ve learned over and over and over again, and it’s one of the things that the travel show takes advantage of, and remotes [on location segments] in general take advantage of: You’re always on the hunt for a mistake. You’re always on the hunt for someone to say something you don’t expect. I couldn’t in a million years script what she said. The doll is so creepy that’s peeking out the window. I think one of the things that I really love about the travel show is I’m curious about other cultures. I’m curious about other people. I’m kind of on a mission to show Americans as humble and willing to be laughed at. But the ultimate treasure is someone saying something awkward or weird that I wasn’t expecting to me; once I get one of those, I’m like Gollum with the ring. I’m like [imitates Gollum voice], “Yes, yes, I can go back to my cave now,” and just “my precious, my precious.”
“Conan O’Brien Must Go” is essentially work trips. But how would your family describe your traveling persona?
I would say my wife, Liza, is the one who wants to be at the airport while they’re still building the plane. If she could, she’d be there days in advance. She’s the one who takes the lead on, “Here’s where we’re staying; I got a guide for this, I got a guide for that.” She is very organized about those things, which is a luxury. On the flight, I don’t sleep that much. My goal is show up in a country and get on their sleep schedule immediately — that I’m religious about. If that means I have to get a coffee enema, I’m getting a coffee enema. I’m going to do whatever I have to do, to stay up and get on their time zone.
I love to just wander. This is where my wife and I disagree — and it will be, eventually, the thing that destroys our marriage — is that she wants to go to the place that has the very best food. “Oh, it’s been written up in all these food magazines.” I don’t care about that. I want to go to the place where you sit outside and you see everybody. I love a tourist trap.
Conan O’Brien on finding a home for his recent Mark Twain Prize: “I’m weird about awards. I tend to put them in a closet. This one’s a little strange because it’s Mark Twain and he’s bare-chested.”
(Pamela Littky / Max)
The show has been renewed for a third season. Are you in the process of narrowing down the places you’ll visit?
Yes, we’re in the process of looking through [locations].
Are you worried about the Trump tariffs? What this will mean of how you’re received or what’s possible?
It’s possible. I went to Haiti during Trump’s first term, after he called them a “s—hole country.” We went there and, at one point, there was a group of men who seemed very hostile; our interpreter said, “They’re not happy. They know you’re American and they’re not happy about you being here.” My instinct is always to go toward the thing and not just, “Get in the van and let’s get out of here.” With my interpreter, we showed them clips of who I am and what I do. We looked at about three minutes of “Conan” clips, and they’re like, “OK, he’s harmless. He seems to have no dignity, so let’s leave him alone.” But it’s a changing world. We’re in a moment right now where we seem to have a leader or a government that’s terrified of the outside world and wants to say, “OK, let’s build a moat and America first.” My instinct is known. I mentioned it in the Twain award speech, but now more than ever, we need to be out there representing our country in a positive way and trying to spread positivity. I’m hoping that we won’t be affected by it, and if we are, if we encounter a hostility, if we encounter difficulty, that will be part of the show. And if it’s not particularly funny, the show can allow for me making an attempt to bridge a gap or make a friend.
Speaking of your speech for the Mark Twain Prize, have you found a spot for the award now that you’re back in your home?
I’m weird about awards. I tend to put them in a closet. This one’s a little strange because it’s Mark Twain and he’s bare-chested. It’s like, what? Why can’t he put on a shirt? I might buy a little shirt for him, a little white suit. I’ll do something. I’ll figure it out. I don’t like a bare-chested Mark Twain, I’m sorry. I think it stops right at the nipple.
Conan O’Brien receives the 26th Mark Twain Prize for American Humor.
(Clifton Prescod for Netflix)
You always look like you’re having fun. Does the work you do now gratify you any differently than it did when you were starting out?
I’ve been thinking about it a lot, and it’s not that I didn’t like what I did before, but you have to meet whatever age you are. You have to meet wherever you are in your life. When I started in 1993 behind a desk in that format, I loved it. It was terrifying at times and there were a lot of difficulties and we almost didn’t make it, but I loved going in there and living in Studio 6A; then I loved the different iterations of the show over the years, and even the brief time I was doing “The Tonight Show.” But then I got to a point where it became clear to me, “I’ve done this for 28 years. I need to go and explore these other things.” Because you can’t stay still. You have to, for lack of a better word, evolve. And there was a nice series of events — trying the podcast, which is now almost six years old, and realizing: Oh my God, I’ve talked to these people before for a total of seven minutes at a time and then I would have to throw to commercial, and the band would play. Now I’m talking to them for 45-50 minutes and it’s magical. That, of course, led to the travel show — also the previous travel shows had shown me that I had a real wanderlust. When you’re at a talk show desk, the idea of going to Geneva and getting into an altercation with somebody at a chocolate bunny factory just sounds amazing. I was doing that even before I had time to do it on the TBS show. And now being able to do it at Max affords us the ability to do it with drones. I love the open of our show because it’s sets just the right tone so solemn and self important and and also vicious towards me. All of that makes me really happy.
How about deciding to act in “If I Had Legs I’d Kick You”? Did it feel like you were pushing yourself out of your element?
I was definitely pushing myself out of my element. When I said yes to the Oscars, it was, “You get one life, try these things.” “Legs” happened because [the film’s writer and director] Mary Bronstein contacted me; she had a script and she said, “Please read the script. It’s an A24 script.” Adam Sandler also called me on behalf of the Safdies [Josh Safdie is a producer on the film] and said [launches into his Sandler impersonation], “Buddddy, buddddy … read the script.” I read the script and loved it. I have no aspirations to be an actor. I tried to talk to Mary Bronstein; I said, “You could get a real actor.” And she was like, “I’m telling you, I envision you doing this.” To her credit, she was tough. She said, “I’m going to come out to L.A. and I’m going to work with you.” And she trained me. It was like a “Rocky” montage. She would work with me. She would ask me, “Who is this character? Let’s dive deep on this character. Let’s rehearse these lines.” Then on set, she is such an impressive person, Mary. And I have to say, who isn’t in love with Rose Byrne? When I heard Rose was doing it, I was a little intimidated because I think she is a stellar actor. I realized all my scenes are with Rose, and they can get pretty intense. I don’t want to let her down. I have to be a good scene partner for Rose Byrne. I was scared. And there’s no audience. It’s not my show. It’s not me being me. I’m a very different person. I even look different. I saw the film and I think they did an amazing job. I’m so proud of Rose and Mary.
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The night before your first day of shooting, could you sleep? Do you get stage fright?
I could sleep, but I will tell you … it was shot on a location in what might actually be a therapist’s office; very small room on the Upper West Side. There’s a lot of fussing around. Then everyone leaves the room and they shut the door, and it’s just me with Rose; and you hear way down the hall, “Action!” And the first time around, I was in my head. I knew it wasn’t good. But to her credit, Mary came back in and she was like, “Great, great, great.” And she said the subtlest thing. She didn’t say, “Conan, what the hell! I’ve made a mistake.” She just said, “On this next one, just a little more this way.” I realized, “Oh, you get a couple of chances.” She gave me a good note. By the second time, third time and the fourth time, I just wasn’t thinking about it. I was not in my head. I was just doing it.
You’re returning to host the Oscars; this time you have a little bit more runway. Do you have a sense of when you’ll start prep?
You really can’t get the room together and fully up until early January, just because that’s when you have the budget to really bring the writers in and everything. We need to wait to see what comes out — what’s the narrative? Who are the players? But I know me, I will start the process before we officially start the process. One idea is that I have radical facelifts now, so that people when I walk out in the next calendar year as the Oscar host, I want there to be an audible gasp from the audience, like, what has he done? I mean, I’ve got injections, fillers, things are pulled back, things are misaligned. Hairline is down, eyebrows are gone.
Or you can come out as Freud.
And psychoanalyze all the movies on a Freudian level. Hey, you’ve got good ideas. If you want in, I’ll get you in. You can give us some ideas.
Searching for patio furniture that is attractive, affordable and long-lasting is like seeking the holy grail: We want to believe it exists, but we’re not entirely sure.
“Outdoor furniture is tough,” said Tatiana Tensen, co-founder of the Eastside Staging Company that has been staging homes in L.A. for a decade. “While we look at the majority of our inventory as an asset, we understand that most patio furniture has a shelf-life of one, maybe two years. After that, most of it ends up being gifted to our local Buy Nothing group.”
Still, Tensen, who shops for furniture as part of her job, was able to offer a few tips on what to look for when investing in outdoor pieces.
About This Guide
Our journalists independently visited every spot recommended in this guide. We do not accept free meals or experiences. What should we check out next? Send ideas to [email protected].
“Certain brands like Salterini, Brown Jordan and Eames made outdoor furniture that lasted decades,” she said. “Materials also matter in terms of longevity. Powder-coated metals and well-patina’d teak will stay fresh and current for years.” She added that investing in good outdoor fabrics is also key. “There is a reason why Sunbrella is so popular,” she said.
Many people purchase patio furniture online from chain stores like Crate & Barrel, Restoration Hardware, Ikea, Costco and Home Depot or online retailers like Article and Wayfair. Others have had luck with Facebook Marketplace, where they say getting a deal is like finding a needle in a haystack but can yield a huge payoff if you’re willing to put in the time and energy. The list below is for people like me who prefer to shop at brick-and-mortar stores, aren’t afraid of vintage items and like supporting local businesses.
With help from designers, prop stylists, set decorators and the always informative Atwater Village Mom’s Facebook Group, I’ve assembled this road map to help you find whatever the patio furniture holy grail means for you. Maybe it’s a gorgeous teak peace that’s pricey but will last forever, or a mosaic tile table made by hand. Perhaps you can tolerate a little rust on a midcentury piece if the price is right, or you’re willing to shell out for a perfectly revamped chaise with new powder coating and fresh vinyl straps in the color of your choice.
Whatever it is you hope to find, I’m wishing you best of luck on your quest — and plenty of outdoor lounging.
Teahouses built for spending extended time in, open until the wee hours of the night, are popping up all over the city. Some are elusive, hidden in plain sight or only accessible via a mysterious membership. Others have gone viral on TikTok and have cover charges and waitlists to attend. Some reference East Asian tea ceremony culture, others lean California cool and bohemian.
Jai Tea Loft owner Salanya Angel Inm prepares tea at her recently opened social gathering space in Koreatown.
(Dante Velasquez Jr. / For The Times)
Why the surge in places to drink tea? It might be because young people are consuming less alcohol (a 2023 study from Gallup found the number of people under 35 who drink has dropped 10% over the last two decades). Or maybe it’s due to the fact that the city has lost a sizable chunk of restaurants open past 10 p.m. — LAist reports nearly 100 since 2019 — leaving fewer places to sit and chat that aren’t bars or clubs. At the same time, activities centered on wellness and reflection, like gratitude groups, journaling or even reading silently in public, are being embraced by people of all ages looking for third spaces and activities outside of the standard dinner-and-a-movie.
Salanya Angel Inm was inspired to open Jai in Koreatown after years of feeling that Los Angeles lacked late-night spaces not oriented around alcohol. She wanted to create an alternative for her community of creatives, a place they could spend long hours loosening up outside of a bar environment. Lydia Lin, co-founder of Steep in Chinatown, which does serve alcohol along with plenty of tea, wanted a place that was open late but was peaceful enough that she could hear her friends while having a conversation.
Enter the rise of the teahouse. Despite their design and menu differences — some have a dozen herbal blends, others opt for dealer’s choice with a rotating set of three bespoke infusions; some are places to debut a trendy outfit, a few ask visitors to remove their shoes — they each come from a desire to challenge a typical consumer experience. These are spaces meant for lingering long after tea has been purchased, or even finished.
Below are four teahouses in different neighborhoods of Los Angeles.
Jai
Scenes from a Saturday night in May at Jai Tea Loft.(Dante Velasquez Jr. / For The Times)
Located above Thai Angel, known for its DJ sets and late-night noodles, newly minted teahouse Jai offers a quieter, more intimate space to spend weekend nights. The spot is owned and operated by Thai Chinese American model and breathwork and reiki practitioner Salanya Angel Inm, who co-owns Thai Angel with her mom and brother. She began tinkering with the idea of opening a teahouse in May 2022. In January 2024, construction began, with a soft opening following in March 2025.
Jai is housed in a one-room attic on top of Thai Angel. It’s cozy, with space for two dozen people at most. The room glows in yellow-orange light from a neon art piece fixed to the ceiling and is lined with brightly colored custom floor cushions made of fabric from Thailand. On a Saturday night in March, seven guests removed their shoes and sat for a storytelling event, ticketed at $10. This was the second installment of the event; Inm had selected the theme “Lucky to be alive.” Some guests recited poetry, while others freestyled between sips of tea. The group exchanged stories and lounged until 3 a.m.
Guests socialize on a Saturday night at Jai Tea Loft in Koreatown.
(Dante Velasquez Jr. / For The Times)
Jordan Collins bought a ticket for storytelling at Jai after hearing about it on Inm’s social media. Upon arrival, he ordered a herbal elixir featuring Asian botanicals from the brand Melati. It’s one of three premade nonalcoholic tonics (the other two are “Awake” and “Calm” by California-based brand Dromme) that Jai serves room temperature for $9. A fan of art shows and experimental music performances, Collins described himself as always on the lookout for new community spaces. “I think that was the first time I pulled up to anything completely solo with no expectations, with the full intention to yap for however long to a room with complete strangers,” he said, likening his experience to a night spent chatting with friends into the morning.
The tea selection at Jai Tea Loft.
(Dante Velasquez Jr. / For The Times)
The current menu at Jai consists of hot tea, sold by the glass or pot, along with the herbal elixirs — one invigorating, one calming and one berry. Tea drinkers can choose between more than a dozen herbs, from butterfly pea to white chrysanthemum, to create a custom blend prepared by Inm, starting at $15 per 25-ounce pot or $6 for a single serving. Behind the tea bar, she offers customers guidance based on their mood and needs.
She may expand the menu going forward but plans to keep costs low. “I really don’t like the idea that people can only access things that are good for them if they have a large amount of money to invest in themselves. I want people to feel like, ‘Yeah, I can swing that for this experience’ and it not be this obstacle,” said Inm.
Koreatown 149 N. Western Ave., Los Angeles, CA (upstairs) Soft opening, see Instagram for hours
Tea at Shiloh
Patrons at Tea at Shiloh on a recent Saturday.(Yasara Gunawardena / For The Times)
Only 45 customers can enter Tea at Shiloh per evening, and those hoping to visit should plan ahead: Reservations, which are required, can be made through the website, and Tea at Shiloh fully books nearly every night.
As each attendee enters and takes off their shoes and adds them to the disorganized pile near the front of the door, a host asks them their intention for the evening. Patrons of the Arts District teahouse know what they’re getting into and answer the question with ease. The space attracts a metaphysically minded, wellness-oriented community. Some are there to journal, others to spend time with old friends. A few want to get out of their comfort zone; they come on dates, join with friends and arrive alone.
Guests socialize at Tea at Shiloh: A Teahouse.
(Yasara Gunawardena / For The Times)
The concept for Tea at Shiloh came to owner Shiloh Enoki (who goes by the mononym Shiloh) in 2019. Shiloh, who was born in Utah and is of South American descent, found herself unfulfilled working for a record label in Hollywood. She underwent a personal transformation that led to her quitting her job and legally changing her name. After a visit to a teahouse in San Francisco that closed in the afternoon, she couldn’t stop thinking how nice the experience would have been at night. She found herself looking for late-night teahouses back home in Los Angeles on Google Maps. To her surprise, she couldn’t find any. “I couldn’t believe that something that was in my brain didn’t exist on Google. I was like, ‘It has to be somewhere. It has to be somewhere in L.A.’ I live in one of the biggest cities in the world and nothing … I became obsessed,” she said. Shiloh began exploring herbalism and hosting friends and strangers at her home for tea, then decided to create a business that would provide what she’d been searching for. She opened the space in 2022.
Faith Bakar, Alexsys Hornsby and Rachel Angelica painting at Tea at Shiloh.
(Yasara Gunawardena / For The Times)
Tea at Shiloh is inside an industrial loft. Brick walls and exposed piping contrast with wooden furniture, white couches and floor cushions and the warm glow of Noguchi lampshades. Surfaces are covered in books, tarot cards, clay and other art supplies to make use of. From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., laptops are welcome. For the evening shift, which goes from 7 to 10 or 11 p.m., the lights go down and laptops are banned (with an exception for Monday’s piano lounge events). Both time slots require prepaid reservations, which, day or night, start at $37 and include unlimited access to the only thing on the menu, a rotating selection of three custom tea blends by Shiloh’s herbalists.
On some nights, there’s live music; others feature workshops in journaling, ceramics and other mind-body activities and performances. “It’s not a singular experience. There’s something for everyone,” Enoki said. After discovering the space on TikTok, Cooper Andrews took his partner to “cosmic jazz” (an eclectic mix of saxophone, keys, and abstract vocal looping) night at Shiloh to celebrate her birthday. He was looking for something other than just another fancy dinner, and for him, the $47-per-person cover charge was well worth it. “I see the fee as a cover charge. It’s like going to a museum,” he said.
Arts District 2035 Bay St., Los Angeles, CA 90021 Reservation only
Steep LA
Steep LA in Chinatown.
(Solomon O. Smith / For The Times)
Friends Samuel Wang and Lydia Lin come from cultures that take tea seriously. Wang, an industrial designer, is Taiwanese, while Lin, a marketing MBA working in the legal field, is Cantonese. In 2019, they separately went on trips to Asia to visit their families and discovered how modernized traditional teahouses had become. “[In China] people our age were going to teahouses instead of bars or clubs. It was somewhere that wasn’t home to just hang out and be able to have a conversation,” said Lin. “Why didn’t this exist in L.A.?” the friends asked themselves.
Within six months, thanks to the help of their Chinatown community, Lin and Wang — who didn’t quit their day jobs — opened Steep in the fall of 2019. Opening night was the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival, Lin remembers, an important and auspicious day.
The minimalist tea lounge hides in the back of a plaza in Chinatown. There’s space inside for a few dozen guests and a handful of outdoor tables for when weather permits. Inside, there’s a beautiful marble bar, wood tables, a cozy couch and long tables with tea leaves in jars to smell and discover.
By day, Steep serves 10 rotating teas, all sourced from China and Taiwan. Customers can order a glass of cold-brewed tea or fresh-brewed tea, but Lin encourages a tea ceremony, which comes with a pot and up to four cups. Baristas walk guests through the steps of brewing and pouring the tea, providing a timer for the perfect steep.
By night, Steep is the only business open in its plaza. Inside, soothing R&B plays. And, unlike the other teahouses that have popped up recently in Los Angeles, Steep serves alcohol. After 5 p.m., the space shifts from cozy teahouse to experimental mixology bar, serving boozy concoctions that all feature tea as an ingredient. Take the Yuanyang Martini, an espresso martini with black sesame and black tea or Red Robe, featuring cognac, bourbon, oolong tea and white miso. At 9 p.m. on a Thursday in March, nearly every seat was filled. Half of the guests enjoyed cocktails, while the rest shared pots of tea.
Chinatown 970 N. Broadway #112, Los Angeles, CA 90012 11 a.m.-11 p.m. daily; closed Tuesday
NEHIMA
There’s no information about NEHIMA online except for an email address. The invite-only, membership-based Japanese teahouse opened in Los Feliz in 2022. It’s more exclusive than any Soho House, San Vicente Bungalows or Bird Streets Club. So much so that its founders, Miho Ikeda and Richard Brewer, also co-owners of New High Mart, an equally exclusive Japanese home goods boutique, agreed only to speak about their latest venture via email.
“Serving tea to-go is to miss the entire point of tea. Tea is time. An excuse to enjoy a moment, a pause, a rest — either with oneself or the company of others,” said Brewer. The space has a strict no-technology policy. Even smartwatches are required to be checked in lockers along with phones.
At NEHIMA, all tea is served made-to-order, tableside, in pieces from the owner’s collection of Japanese ceramics. There are no matcha, lattes or novelty drinks on the menu, only loose-leaf tea sourced from Japan. NEHIMA is careful to distinguish that while the space and experience recall Japanese tradition, the club does not offer an official tea ceremony. “That term is thrown around too easily these days and should be reserved for describing the very specific event, ‘Cha-No-Yu,’” said Brewer.
The founders said the average visit is between three and six hours. Where most members clubs try to offer a luxurious experience for the wealthy through elevated design, upscale food and posh clientele, taking time to relax and enjoy a pot of tea is what NEHIMA sees as the ultimate luxury. “In this busy demanding world, time is the new flex, and real wealth is taking time to stare into a bowl of tea,” said Brewer.
Los Feliz 4650 Kingswell Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90027 Members only
Zhajiangmian was one of the first dishes my mother taught me how to make. I’d stand beside her in the kitchen, watching her stir fermented soybean paste into sizzling ground pork, the smell sharp, earthy and instantly familiar. A pot of noodles boiled nearby as I carefully julienned cucumbers, proud to contribute to one of my favorite comfort meals. When the ingredients were ready, we’d build our bowls with noodles, sauce and a handful of crisp veggies. Then came the best part — mixing it together until every noodle was slick with sauce. It wasn’t fancy, but it was fast, filling and always hit the spot.
According to Tian Yong, head chef of Bistro Na in Temple City, humble zhajiangmian may date back to the Qing Dynasty, when minced meat noodles became popular in Beijing for its affordability and ease of storage. Another origin story tells of an empress dowager who, fleeing an invasion, encountered a zhajiangmian-like dish in Xi’an.
However it came to be, zhajiangmian, or “fried sauce noodles,” is everyday comfort food in China and a staple of northern Chinese cuisine. “It carries cultural nostalgia and a sense of regional identity, particularly for Beijing natives,” says chef and cookbook author Katie Chin, founder of Wok Star Catering in Los Angeles. At its core, the dish is built on a simple foundation of wheat noodles (often thick, chewy and hand-pulled or knife-cut), ground pork and a deeply savory sauce made from doubanjiang, fermented soybean paste.
Like many regional Chinese dishes, zhajiangmian is fluid, shaped by geography, ingredients and personal taste. “It doesn’t just vary between regions of China — it even varies between households in different parts of Beijing,” Yong explains.
Chin uses several types of soybean paste in her zhajiangmian, each bringing its own personality to the bowl. Traditional Beijing-style relies on pungent yellow soybean paste for its salty, umami-rich depth. Tianjin-style leans on sweet bean sauce for a milder, more balanced flavor, while some versions use broad bean paste to add heat and complexity.
Then there’s the Korean-Chinese adaptation, jjajangmyeon, introduced to Korea by Chinese immigrants in the early 20th century. It swaps fermented soybean paste for chunjang, a Korean black bean paste that’s sweeter and less salty. “The dish is served over softer noodles and typically mixed together before eating, unlike the Chinese version where toppings are placed separately,” Chin says.
The vegetable toppings are essential to the dish’s character. “They can vary according to Beijing’s four seasons and traditional agricultural calendar,” says Yong. In spring, you might see spinach shoots, mung bean sprouts or radish greens; summer brings julienned cucumber, lotus root and edamame; fall offers carrots, garlic chives and bok choy; winter, Napa cabbage and wood ear mushrooms. While zhajiangmian is one of China’s most beloved noodle dishes, in the U.S., the spotlight tends to shine on familiar favorites like chow mein, lo mein or dan dan mian. But zhajiangmian has a deserved place alongside those staples in the canon of Chinese noodles.
I set out to find the best versions in Los Angeles and discovered dozens of interpretations. Some stayed true to tradition, others took creative liberties. But each bowl shared the same sense of comfort I remembered from my childhood — that salty, savory, soul-satisfying mix of noodles and sauce. Here are 11 of the best places to try zhajiangmian and jjajangmyeon in L.A.
The UK is now in a better place on trade “than any other country in the world”, the chancellor has claimed.
Rachel Reeves said Britain’s economic growth was on course to be upgraded as a result of the country’s recent three trade deals agreed with the US, India and the EU.
Reeves suggested the government wanted to go further on its new agreement with the EU but told the BBC a trade pact with countries in the Gulf, including Saudi Arabia and Qatar, would be the “next deal”.
On Monday, the UK and the EU struck a deal across several areas including fishing, trade, defence and energy, which marked the biggest agreement between the parties since the UK left the trading bloc in 2020 following the Brexit vote.
The summit in London came after the government reached a trade deal with India to make it easier for UK firms to export whisky, cars and other products to the country, and cut taxes on India’s clothing and footwear exports.
Reeves described the recent trade deals as having “come along like buses” and hinted at expectations of an upgrade to UK economic growth forecasts as a result.
“Britain is in a better place than any other country in the world in terms of deals with those countries,” she said.
“The first deal and the best deal so far with the US, we’ve got the best deal with the EU for any country outside the EU, and we’ve got the best trade agreement with India,” Reeves added.
“Not only are these important in their own right, but it also shows that Britain now is the place for investment and business, because we’ve got preferential deals with the biggest economies around the world.”
The chancellor told the BBC another deal with Gulf nations was the “next deal”, with the government closing in on a pact with the six-member Gulf Co-operation Council including Saudi Arabia, the UAE and Qatar.
It appears the government had the EU, the UK’s largest trading partner, in mind during its talks with the US and India.
As part of the deal with the EU, in return for extending current fishing rules, checks have been reduced on UK food exports.
Reeves said UK officials had made it clear to the Trump administration and India that food standards were not up for negotiation in their deals.
“We increased the quota for the import of beef from the US, it was all still on the high standards that we pride ourselves in, and in part because standards matter to us, but also because we wanted to secure this agreement with the EU, which is by far the biggest market for UK agriculture and fishing,” the chancellor said.
But while the government has hailed recent trade agreements as triumphs, some opposition parties have criticised Reeves and Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer for some of the concessions offered in return.
Conservative leader Kemi Badenoch said the latest EU deal took the UK “backwards” and previously said the country had been “shafted” in the America tariff pact.
The chancellor received a boost last week when the latest official figures revealed the UK economy had grown by 0.7% in the first three months of the year.
The growth was bigger than expected but is not forecast to last.
The government has made growing the economy its main priority in order to boost living standards. A higher growth rate usually means people are getting paid a little bit more, can spend more and more jobs are created by businesses investing.
Reeves suggested UK growth forecasts could be boosted because of the better figures, but economists have warned US tariffs and the chancellor’s decision to raise National Insurance for employers could hit the economy.
“We are forecasting growth of 1% this year, and we had 0.7% in Q1 and they’ll take into account the new trade deals that have been secured,” she said.
If you’re looking to take a trip in the UK this summer then look no further than this not-so-hidden gem – this underappreciated British city has just been named one of the nation’s finest
This UK city has a thriving cultural scene(Image: Getty Images)
There are plenty of reasons to take a staycation this summer – so if you’re looking for your next trip at home, this eclectic city has been named the UK’s best. Plus, it’s cheaper than London.
According to a Which? magazine survey of almost 4000 readers members, Liverpool is Britain’s top place to visit. While it’s certainly not known for its weather, this northern town has long been on the map for its bustling arts and music scene. (The Beatles, anyone?) Now, it’s been crowned a cultural capital, too.
Which? looked at factors like the average hotel rate from Kayak.co.uk, cultural sights and the ease of getting around. They revealed it received a whopping five stars for cultural sights.
Liverpool has a bustling music scene (Image: Getty Images)
In fact, Liverpool is home to the largest number of museums and galleries in the UK outside London. This includes the Museum of Liverpool, the Liverpool World Museum, which features Japanese samurai armour, and the Beatles Story Museum.
One reviewer wrote: “The museum was fantastic. So much memorabilia and information, it is perfect for any fan of The Beatles. The exhibition rooms are very well done, especially the recreation of the Cavern Club and the White Room.”
For those who still want more music history, then you can also take a look at The British Music Experience. It features exciting exhibits and memorabilia tracing the history of British rock and pop music. Some of it is even interactive.
View of the river Mersey, Liverpool(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
If art tickles your fancy, then you can take a trip to the Walker Art Gallery, which offers a phenomenal sculpture room. Or you can step inside the Lady Lever Gallery, which features some of the best Victorian era art.
It’s not the only thing that it has on the big smoke, either. Liverpool received a higher star rating for food and drink of four stars than London, which got just three stars.
The city contains cuisine from all around the world, with top restaurants offering panoramic views of the coast. Cowshed Liverpool is one of the city’s top-rated eateries and serves up mouth watering steak and cocktails.
(Image: Getty Images)
If you’re looking for an exciting night out, the Barry and Rye is a highly-rated speakeasy, serving up delectable cocktails in a dim-lit setting. There are also plenty of exciting Irish pubs like Shenanigans if you’d prefer a cool stout.
Plus, music lovers will not be disappointed. There are plenty of live music venues, from The Cavern Pub to The One O’Clock Gun, hosting a variety of acts.
Liverpool also received four stars for accommodation, shopping and lack of crowds. This puts it at a massive advantage over London’s crowded streets and expensive hotels.
If you’re looking for a place to stay, the city offers a range of high-end and budget hotels. You can find budget rooms from just £32.
A city in the Costa del Sol has been named the top destination for expats considering a move to Spain, highlighting its easy-going lifestyle and excellent weather
Malaga has been a consistent favourite destination for Brits, though new measures may see this change(Image: Getty Images)
A new ranking has named this seaside town the best place for expats to settle down in Spain. Beating out cities like Barcelona and Madrid, this destination topped Nomad Capitalist’s ranking thanks to its convenient access to the sea and the “relaxed lifestyle” of residents.
Malaga sits in the heart of Spain’s popular Costa del Sol, which has been a hub for holidaying Brits for years. The beaches are the biggest draw of the region, with miles and miles of sandy shores – many of which are dog-friendly – and pristine waters.
The city centre of Malaga is “lively and a cultural hub” according to Nomad Capitalist, but the if you’re looking for something a bit quieter, the villages east of the capital might be a better fit. Villages in the province of Malaga like Frigiliana are tranquil and filled with whitewashed houses in the classic Andalusian style.
The province of Malaga is home to both lively coastal cities and quaint villages(Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto)
The weather and superior transport in Malaga compared to other Spanish destinations are other factors that contributed to its top ranking. Though Malaga did experience a freak hail storm this past March, the result of Storm Martinho.
While the merits of Malaga are certainly bountiful, it’s important to note that housing shortages and the impacts of over-tourism have caused tensions to grow between locals, foreigners and city councillors. In April 2025, mass demonstrations overtook 42 cities across Spain including Malaga to draw attention to soaring rental prices and housing shortages.
The clear and defiant message seems to have resonated with the Malaga City Council, which reportedly cancelled plans to build 1,300 tourist homes in the city. The new city strategy will veer away from property sales to non-Spaniards, considering a “total ban” altogether.
Thousands of Malaga locals took to the streets In June 2024 because of the difficulty of finding housing to rent in the city(Image: ASSOCIATED PRESS)
Malaga City Council has already worked to introduce new measures to curb the construction and acquisition of tourist housing after growing animosity from locals in recent years. But after recent protests and the projected plans for a summer of tourist disruption, Mayor De La Torre said “a global moratorium” is under consideration.
Despite the growing tensions, Malaga remains one of Spain’s top tourist destinations, attracting around 14 million visitors last year. And while it tops Nomad Capital’s list of the best expat destinations in Spain, they emphasise that there is no one single Spanish city ideal for all expats.
While Malaga may be best for sunbathers, Barcelona is ideal for foodies and Granada has proved to be an excellent based for winter sports enthusiasts. You can find the full ranking of the Top 11 Spanish expat destinations below.
East Devon has all the ingredients for a wonderful weekend away – yet it remains a hidden gem. Here’s how you can spend 48 hours exploring the tranquil region
Sidmouth has a stunning beach and plenty to do(Image: Manfred Gottschalk via Getty Images)
East Devon may not be the first name that springs to mind when considering a trip to the South West, but that’s exactly why it deserves your consideration. Tucked between the Dorset border and the outskirts of Exeter, this slice of countryside and coastline offers something increasingly elusive: peace without boredom, charm without the crowds.
If you’re seeking a short break that delivers beaches, culture, hearty cuisine and a sense of adventure, East Devon could be your best-kept secret – at least for now. Whether you’re an inquisitive explorer, a history buff, or a relaxed food lover, the area’s blend of historic towns, natural splendour, and leisurely delights has something to relish.
This meticulously planned 48-hour itinerary will guide you through the highlights of East Devon in a weekend – and might leave you questioning why you didn’t visit sooner, as reported by Devon Live.
Day one in East Devon
Kick off your East Devon getaway on the fringes of Honiton at Heron Farm – a serene 17-acre sanctuary complete with an award-winning café, vineyard, and walled garden. It’s the perfect backdrop to ease into the weekend
Post-breakfast, take the brief journey into Honiton itself, a market town that strikes the perfect balance between hustle and old-world allure.
Honiton takes great pride in its history, especially its lace-making heritage. This is carefully preserved in Allhallows Museum, a small yet richly detailed collection that traces the town’s creative journey from the 16th century onwards.
It’s a stop that subtly rewards the curious, blending tactile heritage with archaeological intrigue. From Honiton, travel east to Axminster. This town beautifully embraces its rural surroundings, and just beyond its centre lies River Cottage, the culinary haven established by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall stands in the veg garden of River Cottage HQ in Axminster, East Devon(Image: Max Mumby/Indigo, Getty Images)
If you fancy a guided stroll through the kitchen gardens, a rustic meal, or even a hands-on cookery course, it’s essential to book ahead. It’s more than just a restaurant – it’s a philosophy rooted in the soil.
Axminster also holds its own when it comes to local history. The Axminster Heritage Centre provides a sweeping view of the town’s past, from Stone Age origins and Roman connections to its prominence in the carpet trade.
It’s compact, informative, and impressively curated. As the afternoon fades and your sweet tooth calls, head straight for The Community Waffle House.
There’s a homely warmth to this place – the waffles are made from a family recipe passed down through generations, and the atmosphere is as inviting as the plates are indulgent.
As the evening draws in, take a look at what’s on at Axminster Guildhall. This humble venue certainly punches above its weight, hosting a variety of events from tribute bands to film nights and comedy shows. It’s a relaxed yet vibrant way to round off the day.
Day two in East Devon
Sidmouth is your destination for day two, offering coastal charm and a cultural experience to match. Start your day with breakfast at The Kitchen, part of The Donkey Sanctuary.
It’s not just about the hearty and satisfying food – it’s also an opportunity to stretch your legs and meet some of the sanctuary’s long-eared inhabitants. There’s a tranquil atmosphere here that sets the mood for the day.
Just a short drive away you’ll find Kennaway House, an attractive regency mansion that regularly hosts exhibitions and craft fairs. Be sure to check their schedule before you visit as they occasionally close for private functions. If open, it’s a delightful place to wander through both contemporary and traditional art.
Bright lights at Sidmouth Jazz Festival
For those keen to delve deeper into Sidmouth’s history, the town’s museum provides a glimpse into its rich past – and not just behind glass. They also offer guided walks during the warmer months.
Whether you choose a historical town tour, a coastal geology stroll, or a shaded tree walk, each option starts and finishes at the museum and includes entry to the exhibits. It’s a thoughtful, active way to explore Sidmouth’s gentler side.
Then it’s off to Exmouth, where the South West Coast Path awaits. Fans of The Salt Path can follow in the footsteps of author Raynor Winn along this dramatic stretch of coastline. Even a half-day walk here feels like stepping into a beautifully written paragraph.
Before you leave Exmouth, make sure to visit A La Ronde – an architectural curiosity built in 1796 by cousins Jane and Mary Parminter. Its 16-sided structure is fascinating in itself, but what really steals the show is the Shell Gallery: a room decorated with thousands of shells in dizzying detail.
It’s the kind of place that’s hard to describe without photos.
If your legs (and energy levels) are up for it, the Exmouth Pavilion rounds out the itinerary. From live music to theatre and comedy, it’s a fitting place to end your 48 hours with a bit of entertainment and a sense of satisfaction.
Sidmouth has a stunning beach and plenty to do(Image: Manfred Gottschalk via Getty Images)
Best festivals on offer
If your dates are flexible, consider timing your visit to coincide with one of East Devon’s growing festivals. Sidmouth Sea Fest kicks things off on Saturday 17 May, celebrating the town’s maritime spirit with free family fun, live music and local food.
Just a week later, the Sidmouth International Jazz and Blues Festival brings big names like Soul II Soul and Gabrielle to Blackmore Gardens (23–26 May). For a smaller town, Sidmouth boasts a remarkably vibrant cultural scene.
Another standout event is the Budleigh Music Festival. This summer, it’s set to host the London African Gospel Choir, Bath Philharmonia, and author Sir Michael Morpurgo, all performing in cosy venues dotted around Budleigh Salterton.
If your idea of a celebration leans more towards a culinary feast, then the Eat Festivals (also known as Gate to Plate) are just the ticket. The Axminster edition is scheduled for Monday 26 May, promising to fill the streets with some of the finest food and drink that the West Country has to offer.
Where to stay
Whether you’re a couple seeking coastal views or a family in search of some countryside tranquillity, East Devon’s accommodation options cater to all tastes.
In Sidmouth, the Kingswood and Devoran Hotel provides classic seafront comfort, complete with balconies overlooking the Jurassic Coast. For those who prefer a closer connection with nature, Cuckoo Down Farm offers glamping in safari lodges, complete with campfires and a charming rural setting.
Higher Wiscombe, also near Sidmouth, caters to larger groups with its luxury self-catering cottages and an outdoor pool – ideal for special occasions. If you’re after a cosier rural experience, Twistgates Farm Cottages near Honiton are tucked away within the rolling Blackdown Hills.
For those with a passion for food, The Pig at Combe (Honiton) combines country house elegance with produce from its own kitchen gardens. Over in Axminster, Lower Keats Glamping adds a touch of rustic luxury, while Andrewshayes Holiday Park offers family-friendly facilities and sweeping views of the countryside.
East Devon doesn’t clamour for recognition – it garners it subtly. It’s a region rich in layered histories, hidden allure, and generous landscapes.
In merely 48 hours, you’ll encounter more than a mere change of scenery; you’ll experience a change in tempo, a reconnection with the local, and perhaps a rekindling of what makes travel truly significant.
This isn’t merely a weekend escape – it’s a call to decelerate, observe more keenly, and become enamoured with a part of the country that is confidently authentic.
Chefs who behave badly get their own show. Also, pink Champagne cake at Madonna Inn plus more road food favorites. And can fish be too fresh? I’m Laurie Ochoa, general manager of L.A. Times Food, with this week’s Tasting Notes.
Too hot in the kitchen
Some of the contestants in the NBC competition show “Yes, Chef!” From left, Michelle Francis, Katsuji Tanabe, Jake Lawler, Peter Richardson, Christopher Morales and Julia Chebotar. Martha Stewart and chef José Andrés host.
(Pief Weyman / NBC via Getty Images)
“For far too long,” Martha Stewart says into the camera during the opening moments of NBC’s new “Yes, Chef!” cooking competition show, “the pressure of the kitchen has been an excuse for out-of-control behavior.”
“That kind of behavior doesn’t make a great chef,” adds her co-host, chef José Andrés. “It holds them back.”
Stewart and Andrés are correct. And yet, that kind of behavior — yelling at fellow chefs, throwing pans in frustration, undermining colleagues and sometimes inflicting more harmful abuse — has been the roiling soup that has fed reality TV cooking competitions for more than 25 years. It’s also been the kind of behavior that restaurant workers have tried, with varying degrees of success, to root out as cheffing became an aspirational profession instead of disrespected grunt work.
You can read about the pain as well as the allure of working in and around restaurant kitchens in several recent memoirs, including Laurie Woolever’s “Care and Feeding,” which restaurant critic Bill Addisonpraised in this newsletter last month, Hannah Selinger’s “Cellar Rat: My Life in the Restaurant Underbelly” and books by two chefs and reality TV cooking show insiders, Tom Colicchio’s “Why I Cook” and Kristen Kish’s “Accidentally on Purpose,” which I wrote about last week.
If you’ve watched even a few minutes of a reality TV cooking competition — from “Hell’s Kitchen’s” Gordon Ramsay angrily dumping out a contestant’s overcooked steak to even the sweet contestants on “The Great British Baking Show” expressing frustration — chances are good that you’ve seen how the kitchen pressure Stewart talks about often does lead to bad behavior.
So can a reality TV cooking competition really help chefs become better people — and better bosses?
Possibly. But three episodes into the inaugural season of “Yes, Chef!” — a show cast with “12 professional chefs, each with one thing standing in their way: themselves,” Stewart says — it looks as though the cards are stacked against redemption.
“In our kitchen,” Stewart tells viewers about the chefs, “it takes a lot more than good food to win. They’ll need to figure out how to work together.”
Andrés and Stewart have a lot of life experience and advice to offer, with Stewart admitting, “I have been known to be a perfectionist. And that kind of holds you back sometimes.”
But when it comes down to which team wins and which team loses, it turns out that good food does matter more than bad behavior. (Note that there are spoilers ahead if you haven’t watched the show yet.)
After TV competition show veteran and designated villain Katsuji Tanabe (“Top Chef,” “Chopped”) takes all the eggs in the kitchen so that the opposing team has none to work with, he and his teammates are rewarded with a win. The reasoning: The losing chefs struggled to, in the language of the show, “pivot.”
Even worse for the development of the chefs, the decision of who stays and who goes at the end of each episode is not made by Andrés or Stewart. Instead, a one-on-one cook-off is set up between the contestant deemed to be the Most Valuable Chef (MVC) and another contestant that the MVC strategically chooses to go up against. If the MVC wins, the challenger chef goes home. But if the challenger chef beats the MVC, the challenger becomes the decider. So far, this has led to one of the better chefs, Torrece “Chef T” Gregoire, being booted largely to reduce the competition, followed by the executioner of that decision, Michelle Francis, getting axed in the next episode, possibly comeuppance for sending home a popular player the week before and partly because of her dish — even though she was handicapped by the egg theft.
The sharp edges and head games almost feel retro, closer to the template set 25 years ago this month when “Survivor” first aired and popularized the whole “I’m not here to make friends” trope that was common in sports and then became emblematic of reality TV posturing.
We’ll see as the season progresses whether the chefs can turn around the bad attitudes and insecurities that led to them being cast on the show. I certainly hope Andrés and Stewart are given more time to guide the chefs toward their better selves in future episodes.
But if you want to watch a show where the chefs are modeling kitchen behavior we’d like to see more of in our star chefs, may I suggest the current season of Bravo’s “Top Chef.”
Both “Yes, Chef!” and “Top Chef” are made by the production company Magical Elves, but “Top Chef,” now in its 22nd season, is showcasing a group of chefs who actually seem to care about each other. Yes, there are big personalities on the show, notably Massimo Piedimonte, who often generates eye rolls by the other chefs when his bravado goes overboard. But he is seen in quieter moments trying to tame his impulses and become a better person. And there is genuine emotion displayed when chef Tristen Epps gets word right before a big challenge that his father-in-law has died and his mother encourages him to continue competing. The entire show, from the production staffer who takes him off the set to his fellow competitors seem to support him.
There is even camaraderie among the losing contestants who try to work their way back into the competition through the spin-off “Last Chance Kitchen,” judged solo by Colicchio showing his mentoring skills. When Chicago’s North Pond chef César Murillo is pitted against three-time “Last Chance” winner Katianna Hong, co-owner of the recently closed Arts District restaurant Yangban, there is support and respect shown for both talented competitors by the eliminated chefs watching the proceedings, including chef Kat Turner of L.A.’s Highly Likely.
“Top Chef” contestants Katianna Hong, left, and Cesar Murillo before the judges.
(David Moir / Bravo via Getty Images)
“Top Chef” used to have a lot more hotheads. “I’m not your bitch, bitch,” was a catchphrase in the show’s early years when one chef pushed another too far. But the new season, which has just a few more episodes to go, is proving that you can cool down the temperature in the kitchen and still entertain.
Think pink
The very pink dining room at San Luis Obispo’s Madonna Inn; inset, the Inn’s pink Champagne cake.
Food’s Stephanie Breijo spent time at the very pink San Luis Obispo landmark, the Madonna Inn, and says that the “maze-like, kaleidoscopic lair of chroma and whimsy is home to some of the most iconic food on the Central Coast.” She came away with insider knowledge of the red oak grills at Alex Madonna’s Gold Rush Steak House and of the Inn’s famed pink Champagne cakes — made in the hundreds each week. But the pink cake recipe remains a secret. Breijo did, however, get the recipe for the Inn’s Pink Cloud cocktail — topped with whipped cream and a cherry.
This week, the paper introduced a new feature, L.A. Timeless, which highlights stories from our archives. The first two stories this week come from former L.A. Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl, who wrote about learning to shop for fish at L.A. supermarkets with Jon Rowley, the man Julia Child once called “the fish missionary.” I got to go along on that reporting trip all those years ago and I’ll never forget the lessons Rowley taught us. Her companion story on Rowley went into one of his obsessions: “[T]hat fish can be too fresh … a fish coming out of rigor mortis five or six days after harvest (in ice, of course) can be far better eating than a fish less than one day out of the water.”
Great Australian Bite
Chef Curtis Stone poses at his Four Stones Farm in Agoura Hills.
(Juliana Yamada / Los Angeles Times)
Tickets are on sale for our second-annual Great Australian Bite. Last year, we were on the Malibu Pier. This year, chef Curtis Stone is hosting the event with Tourism Australia on his Four Stones Farm. He’s partnering with chef Clare Falzon of the restaurant Staġuni in South Australia’s Barossa. Read more about the event and how to get tickets here.
Also …
On Pasjoli’s bar menu, the dry-aged beef burger is topped with white cheddar, red onion “au poivre” and a marrow aioli on a brioche bun.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)
Jenn Harris reports on the reasons behind the upcoming two-week closure (starting May 31) of Dave Beran’s Pasjoli, the Santa Monica restaurant that, she writes, “has undergone a series of changes to its menu and format, ever striving to embody the spirit of the neighborhood French bistro.” Now that Beran has Seline as an outlet for his fine-dining tendencies, he can relax more at Pasjoli. When it reopens June 12, the restaurant should be, Harris writes, “more approachable, more interactive and a lot more fun.”
Stephanie Breijo reports that after a health department shutdown, AC Barbeque restaurant, owned by comedians Anthony Anderson and Cedric the Entertainer, has reopened in Century City.
Breijo also reports that Michelin is adding three L.A. restaurants to its 2025 California guide with a full new list to be revealed June 25.
And, for good measure, Breijo also has restaurant opening news on Anthony Wang’s recently opened Firstborn, “one of L.A.’s most exciting new Chinese restaurants,” a Brentwood outpost of Beverly Hills’ steak-focused Matu called Matu Kai, sandwich shop All Too Well, the Pasadena branch of Sarah Hymanson and Sara Kramer’s Kismet Rotisserie, Kristin Colazas Rodriguez’s Colossus in San Pedro and details of Dine Latino Restaurant Week.
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The rock band Foo Fighters has let go of drummer Josh Freese, according to a note from the veteran percussionist.
“The Foo Fighters called me Monday night to let me know they’ve decided ‘to go in a different direction with their drummer,’” Freese wrote on Instagram. “No reason was given. … Regardless, I enjoyed the past two years with them, both on and off stage, and I support whatever they feel is best for the band. In my 40 years of drumming professionally, I’ve never been let go from a band, so while I’m not angry — just a bit shocked and disappointed. But as most of you know I’ve always worked freelance and bounced between bands so, I’m fine.”
“Stay tuned for my ‘Top 10 possible reasons Josh got booted from the Foo Fighters’ list,” he joked.
A representative for the band confirmed the departure but declined to comment.
Freese is a session veteran who first came to prominence in the SoCal punk band the Vandals, and later went on to play in Guns N’ Roses, A Perfect Circle and Devo before joining Foo Fighters in 2023. He won the high-profile job after the death of beloved Foo Fighters drummer Taylor Hawkins.
The band previously celebrated Hawkins in a moving tribute concert in 2022, which included Hawkins’ then-16-year-old son Shane drumming in his dad’s place on “My Hero.” More recently, singer Dave Grohl appeared with his former Nirvana bandmate, bassist Krist Novoselic, to perform at the FireAid benefit concert in Inglewood this year.
The group has not announced a new drummer. Its next scheduled performance is in Singapore on Oct. 4.
Pakistan reiterates its commitment to the ceasefire but warns it will respond forcefully to any future Indian attacks.
India has ordered a Pakistani diplomat to leave the country within 24 hours as tensions simmer in the wake of heavy military exchanges between the nuclear-armed neighbours before a ceasefire was agreed last week.
The unnamed official, stationed at Pakistan’s embassy in New Delhi, was accused by India’s Ministry of External Affairs on Tuesday of “indulging in activities not in keeping with his official status”.
The move comes after a brief but intense military confrontation last week that threatened to erupt into the fifth full-scale war between the two countries. While the truce brought a temporary halt to cross-border missile and drone strikes, sporadic skirmishes continue along the Line of Control (LoC), the de facto border in disputed Kashmir, a region claimed by both nations.
On Tuesday, Pakistan reiterated its commitment to the ceasefire but warned it would respond forcefully to any future attacks.
The statement came after Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi warned in his first national address since the truce that India would strike “terrorist hideouts” across the border if provoked again.
The ultranationalist Hindu leader added that India “only paused” its military action against Pakistan.
Modi’s remarks were swiftly condemned by Pakistan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, which called them “provocative and inflammatory”.
“At a time when international efforts are being made for regional peace and stability, this statement represents a dangerous escalation,” it said.
“Pakistan remains committed to the recent ceasefire understanding and taking necessary steps towards de-escalation and regional stability,” the statement continued, adding that any future aggression would receive a response.
The conflict ignited after a deadly April 22 shooting attack in the Pahalgam area of India-administered Kashmir, where 25 Indian tourists and one Nepalese visitor were killed. India accused Pakistan’s government of links to the attacks – an accusation Islamabad strongly denied.
India launched strikes on what it called “terrorist infrastructure” in Pakistan and Pakistan-administered Kashmir.
According to Islamabad, 40 civilians and 11 Pakistani military personnel were killed in last week’s violence. India said at least 16 civilians and five Indian soldiers were killed.
The fighting marked the most severe exchange between the two countries in nearly 30 years and ended only after sustained diplomatic pressure. On Monday, India said it held a rare phone call with Pakistan’s military leaders, agreeing to uphold the ceasefire and explore ways to de-escalate the conflict.
Fragile ceasefire
Despite the ceasefire, sporadic violence continued on Tuesday with Indian forces reporting a gun battle in southern Kashmir’s Shopian district. The army said three suspected fighters were killed in a “search and destroy” operation launched on intelligence input.
On Tuesday, Modi visited Adampur airbase near the border and reiterated India’s stance in a speech to air force personnel. “We will not differentiate between the government sponsoring terrorism and the masterminds of terrorism,” he said.
“We will enter their dens and hit them without giving them an opportunity to survive.”
Meanwhile, both sides have taken a series of retaliatory diplomatic and economic measures.
India has suspended most visa services for Pakistani nationals, halted bilateral trade and announced its intention to unilaterally suspend the Indus Waters Treaty, a World Bank-brokered water-sharing agreement in place since 1960 that is critical for farming.
In response, Pakistan banned visas for Indians, closed its airspace to Indian aircraft and imposed a reciprocal trade embargo.
Homeless encampments are dirty. And ugly. And seem, to those who venture near them and even to some who live there, unsafe.
They are also — sadly, wrongly — places of last resort for those whose second, third and even fourth chances haven’t panned out, sometimes through their own mistakes, sometimes because they’re so far down just staying alive is a battle. Though we tend to toss homelessness in the soup pot along with mental illness and drug use, the terrifying fact is that nearly half of the folks living on our streets are over the age of 50 and wound up there because a bit of bad luck left them unable to pay the rent.
“At the end of the day, we have a homelessness crisis because we don’t have enough housing,” Margot Kushel said. She’s a professor of medicine at UC San Francisco and director of the UCSF Benioff Homelessness and Housing Initiative. There’s really no one in the state who understands encampments and their residents better.
Which is why I am deeply disheartened by Gov. Gavin Newsom’s push Monday to encourage cities and counties to outlaw encampments — even providing a handy-dandy boilerplate ordinance for local governments to pass. It moves California one step closer to criminalizing homelessness, no matter how softly or deftly he packages that truth.
Or how politically expedient it may be.
“It is time to take back the streets. It’s time to take back the sidewalks. It’s time to take these encampments and provide alternatives,” Newsom said. “It simply cannot continue. It cannot be a way of life living out on the streets, in sidewalks, in what almost become permanent structures, impeding foot traffic, impeding our ability for our kids to walk the streets and strollers, or seniors with disabilities and wheelchairs, even navigating their sidewalks. We cannot allow that to continue.”
From a political perspective, that tirade is spot on. The clock is already ticking on the 2026 midterms, which coincide with the end of his tenure as California’s leader. Not only is Newsom eyeing the horizon for his next move, presidential or not, but Democrats are eyeing the condition of California and whether Trump and his supporters will be able to once again use it as the example of everything that’s wrong with America, as they did in both 2020 and 2024.
Even Kushel, who near daily hears the heartbreaking reasons people are homeless, knows encampments aren’t the answer.
“I do think the encampments are a disaster,” she said. “I want them gone too.”
But, not at the cost of making things worse, which is what breaking them down without a place to put people does. Newsom’s draft ordinance makes nice talk about not criminalizing folks, but also doesn’t require more than “every reasonable effort” to provide shelter to those being displaced — knowing full well that we don’t have enough shelter beds.
It also talks nice about not throwing out people’s belongings, unless maybe they have bugs or feces on them — which, let’s be real, they might — in which case, the dumpster it is, even if that bundle may contain your identification or medications.
That constant loss, constant movement, not only sets people back even more, it also breaks trust and pushes people further out of sight and out of society. So by the time there are shelter beds or treatment centers, you’ve lost cooperation from the people you want to help. Homelessness becomes even more dystopian, if more invisible.
“I actually worry that making people move every day, threatening them with arrest, all of those things make the problem worse and not better,” Kushel said.
Some might recall that this new age of compassionate crackdowns began last year after the Supreme Court ruled in Grants Pass vs. Johnson that it wasn’t cruel or unusual punishment to outlaw camping in public spaces — allowing municipalities to cite or arrest those who did. Newsom’s office took the side of the city of Grants Pass, Ore., filing a brief in support of more enforcement powers. Since then, Newsom — sometimes personally with camera crews in tow — has cleared more than 16,000 encampments on state lands.
Some cities have followed suit with tough laws of their own, including San José. But other cities have resisted, much to Newsom’s dismay.
In Grants Pass, things didn’t go exactly as planned. There’s currently an injunction against its enforcement on camping laws after Disability Rights Oregon sued the city. Tom Stenson, the group’s deputy legal director, told me that the organization has seen how the anti-camping laws have been hard on folks with physical or mental impairments, many of whom are older.
As the housing crunch hit that state, the low-rent places where his plaintiffs lived “disappeared, and then there is just nowhere for them to go, and it just forces them right into homelessness,” he said.
California’s struggle around homelessness has been a black eye and a contentious soft spot for years, and even the most sympathetic of Californians are tired of the squalor and pain. A recent poll by Politico and the Citrin Center for Public Opinion Research at UC Berkeley found that about 37% of voters support arresting folks if they refuse to accept shelter, and that number jumped for male voters and Republicans.
Homelessness is, without a doubt, “the issue that defines more anger and frustration of Californians than any other,” as Newsom put it.
On the same day Newsom put out his legal template for clearing encampments, he also announced $3.3 billion in funding for 124 mental health facilities around the state. It’s money from last year’s Proposition 1, passed by voters, that will add 5,000 residential treatment beds and more than 21,000 outpatient slots to our struggling system of mental health and substance abuse treatment.
The grants include $65 million for Los Angeles to refurbish the Metropolitan State Hospital campus in Norwalk into a psychiatric subacute facility for transitional-age youths, a big and glaring need for the region.
To steal from the history lesson Newsom gave, in 1959 this state had 37,000 mental health beds in locked facilities, the kind that inspired “One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest.” Not ideal.
So the state did away with them, through a series of necessary reforms. But it never built the community-based system that was promised. California is now down to 5,500 locked beds and a bunch of overcrowded, understaffed, outdated jails and prisons that have become our de facto mental health treatment centers, along with the streets. Not ideal.
This investment in a robust community care system that provides both substance abuse and mental health treatment in one place is a huge win for all Californians, and will be a game changer — in about 10 years. Newsom optimistically showed pretty renderings of facilities that will be built with the funds, one even expected to open next year. But folks, building takes time.
Still, Newsom should receive all credit due for taking on a problem ignored for decades and doing something meaningful around it. I’ve seen him act thoughtfully, carefully and forcefully on the issue of homelessness.
Which makes this encampment right-wing swing all the more obviously political, and unworthy of our policy.
Despite those encampments, homelessness in California is actually getting better, though you have to wade through the numbers to see it. There were 187,000 people living without homes in the state last year, according to federal data, a record. About 70% of those people were living unsheltered, more than 45,000 in the city of Los Angeles.
Although the sheer number of people living without homes is overwhelming, it represented an increase of about 3% — compared with an increase of about 18% nationally. Across the country, but not in California, families were the group with the largest single-year increase.
So what we are doing, with policies that prioritize housing and meeting people where they are, is working. What Newsom has done to build a community care system is overdue and revolutionary.
But the fact remains that California does not have enough housing. Clearing encampments may be a political solution to an ugly problem.
But without a place to move people, it’s just optics.
