pink

“YOU, with me.” The pilot pointed at the cockpit of the two-seat-wide propeller plane and I obediently clambered in.

The tiny aircraft rattled along the runway, and I took a deep breath, only to let out a gasp after take-off as I looked down.

The crystalline Caribbean sea glittered below us, and as far as the eye could see the waters were peppered with sandy cays and islands — one of which was to be my home for the next few days.

Anguilla is just a 45-minute flight from the more-visited Antigua — and despite the island being so small that it only needs six traffic lights, it’s home to not one, but two of the best beaches in the world.

One of these is the breathtaking Shoal Bay, which I got to marvel at from my lavish ocean-view room at Zemi Beach House, set right on the sand.

You won’t see any cruise ships, jet skis or thumping beach clubs here.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

BANGED UP ABROAD

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This unspoiled stretch of pristine sand is lined with swaying palm trees on one side and soft, turquoise waves on the other, both a welcome presence in the 30C heat.

The upscale hotel has an elegant open-plan layout, two infinity pools (including one that’s child-free), a walkaround bar service and a spa, which sits inside a 300-year-old authentic Thai house, transported and reconstructed piece by piece.

Lounging in the spa’s quiet zone post-massage as I listened to the sounds of the island with an iced drink, I understood why Anguilla prides itself on the slogan “Tranquility wrapped in blue”.

An entire holiday could easily be spent without leaving Zemi — after all, it also has its own tennis court, gym, boutique, bars and restaurants.

But Anguilla’s magic is not confined to the famous Shoal Bay.

Orange-flowered flamboyant trees (flamboyant by name and by nature) and colourful bungalows lined the roads as an enthusiastic local named Kelvis guided us round his home island. A short drive brought us to The Arch, a doorway-shaped rock formation over the ocean that wouldn’t look out of place in the Algarve.

Years of footfall by tourists wanting THE Instagram shot have made walking onto it now unsafe, but I was more than happy to forgo that and simply take in the vista, something I also did at the impressive Sandy Ground viewing platform.

Inland, we admired the striking architecture of the island’s Catholic church and visited Wallblake House, Anguilla’s only surviving plantation building, which now serves as a museum.

There was one spot, however, that Kelvis couldn’t take us: Little Bay. The smallest of Anguilla’s 33 beaches, this cove is only accessible by hanging onto a rope and climbing down a cliff face, or via the water.

None of us fancied going home with crutches and a cast, so we kayaked from the nearby Crocus Bay in transparent boats which allowed us to spot a couple of sea turtles underwater as we paddled.

If kayaking isn’t your thing, don’t fret — a stay at the Frangipani Beach Resort will give you a chance to visit Little Bay on their very own catamaran, the FrangiCat.

The pastel pink resort sits on Meads Bay — Anguilla’s other world-class beach that made the global top 50 — and has an intimate atmosphere without compromising on luxury in its enormous suites.

We spent the second half of our trip at Frangipani gazing out to sea from the quiet shore while petting the resort dog, Sunny, and sipping on generous rum punches.

And there is certainly no shortage of rum in Anguilla. A tasting session with Glo’s Flavoured Rums allowed us to try the locally crafted spirit on the beach while Gloria’s (Glo’s) own daughters talked us through the range of tropical options.

I’ve never been much of a rum fan, but sampling banana, sorrel, guava berry, cinnamon and ten more flavours had me asking “Why is the rum gone?” faster than you could say “Jack Sparrow”.

Luckily, lining your stomach on this island is just as exciting for the taste buds.

Modest beach shacks serve up the freshest grilled seafood with rice and peas, plantain and Johnny cakes, a delicious fried bread.

The skewered mahi-mahi at Madeariman, the spicy lobster at Mango’s Seaside Grill and the barbecued shrimp tacos at Da’Vida Beach Club are must-trys for a sit-down meal with a view, though many Anguillians will just fire up their own roadside BBQs to enjoy the catch of the day.

Rendezvous at Tasty’s is also excellent. The restaurant runs on “Caribbean time” so don’t expect your crayfish in a hurry, but it’s an excuse to spend time sipping a Carib beer on the dreamy Rendezvous Bay.

On our final evening, Kelvis suggested we head to Elvis beach bar, a favourite watering hole among the locals.

The owner was, of course, Elvis — who one minute was serving drinks from the boat-shaped bar and the next was on stage with the band singing some Bob Marley.

Swinging in a hammock as the words to Three Little Birds echoed around me, I could tell that, like its rum, this island was going to stay with me for a good while.