Pictureperfect

Wisteria and clematis hang from weathered cottage walls. Tulips and pink apple blossom spill out of several gardens. Thatched animals decorate the rooftops. There’s a Norman church, a medieval castle and an 80-hectare (200-acre) nature reserve. Amberley is the kind of place people assume you can only reach by car, but the village has its own railway station with regular direct trains, along the scenic Arun Valley line, from Bognor, Horsham and London Victoria.

This spring, the Black Horse pub reopened in Amberley. The new owners are the gourmet Gladwin brothers, Oliver and Richard, returning to their Sussex roots near Nutbourne Vineyards. Having founded five Local & Wild restaurants in London, the Black Horse is their first country pub and first place with rooms.

I’ve walked through Amberley numerous times, but never stopped to explore. It’s the midpoint of the South Downs Way, a 100-mile route from Winchester to Eastbourne, with views for much of its length in both directions: north across the Weald and south towards the sea.

Trains leave London every half an hour and take about 1hr 20mins to get to Amberley. The scenery outside gets steadily lovelier, passing blackthorn-bordered fields and bluebell woods. Beyond Pulborough, the railway enters the South Downs national park. There are herds of deer, chalk-hill views and the winding River Arun.

My first stop is Amberley Museum (two for the price of one with a voucher if you travel by train). Sprawling across more than 14 hectares (36 acres) of former chalk pits, it has impressive disused lime kilns and demonstrations of everything from broom-making to printing.

It’s right opposite the railway station and I’m planning a 45-minute whiz round before strolling into the village. Three hours later, I’m still there, riding the narrow-gauge railway and chatting to volunteers with encyclopedic enthusiasms for various traditional crafts. Visitors can hear the rattle of old machines and smell the printers’ ink, pine shavings, brick dust and engine oil. There’s a whole building about communications through time, from horse-drawn post carts to fibre-optic cables. The Tools & Trades History Society has intricate displays involving bee-smokers, hoop drivers, moulding planes, straw splitters and spindle grinders.

Above the museum’s main site, a nature trail leads up, through banks of bluebells and primroses, to a hilltop bench. Across the chalk cliffs of the old quarry and tall sycamores with their nesting rooks are views of the fortified walls of Amberley Castle, a bishops’ residence dating mainly from the 14th century.

I pass the castle on my 20-minute amble into the village and stop off at neighbouring St Michael’s church to admire the zigzagged Norman arch, oak leaf-carved doorway and graveyard cowslips. I check into the Black Horse, then head out again to explore Amberley Wildbrooks nature reserve, an area of boggy woods and tussock-sedged wetland, which starts two minutes’ walk away from the pub.

A pair of birders with a proper scope show me their photo of the resident white-tailed eagle, then I stroll through golden evening shadows serenaded by linnets and skylarks. No sign of the eagle, but I’m happy to hear warblers in the reedbeds and a woodpecker drumming for bugs. (Next day, I learn one of the area’s best eagle-spotting sites is The Sportsman, Amberley’s community pub, with binoculars on its terrace). I walk for miles along the single boggy track, following the Wey-South Path, a 34-mile (55km) route to Guildford mostly along canal towpaths, before finally heading back.

With bedrooms offering real milk and coffee, Amberley pottery and homemade biscuits, the Black Horse is hospitable. There are wooden beams, hilly views and fresh flowers. Plenty of pubs claim to be haunted by a “grey lady”; the Black Horse reports sightings of a spectral “woman in lavender … fleeting as the mist that settles over the Downs”.

The renovated pub’s wood-panelled restaurant has an emphasis on local, foraged and sustainable food. Wild garlic season is ending and local asparagus has arrived. Grilled green spears in lemon with purple onion flowers look beautiful and taste better. Salad is dressed with gingery magnolia. There’s squid from Worthing, free-range lamb from the third Gladwin brother and farmer, Gregory, and wines from the family vineyards five miles north.

Many of the diners live locally (some on their second or third visit), while the early breakfasters next morning are mostly hiking the South Downs Way. The chalky hills look tempting in the spring sunshine, but I have other plans. In Arundel, four minutes’ journey south by rail, the nearly 1,000-year-old fortress (£17, gardens only) is hosting its huge annual tulip festival when I visit, having planted more than 1.4m bulbs over the past decade and won Historic Houses’ garden of the year in 2025, among other awards.

From pretty Arundel station, a bee-friendly path leads cyclists and walkers under the railway and beside a field to a safer stretch of pavement. Local community group Greening Arundel has won awards for this path, which is lined with celandines, murals and bug hotels.

There’s a queue to get into the castle gardens, but it’s easy to see why people come here. With fountains, thatched gazebos and historic walls as a backdrop, there are sweeping beds of multicoloured blooms, banks of scarlet by the moat, lush tubs of peony-style doubles, elegant lily-flowered cultivars and striped Rembrandts among a soft haze of forget-me-nots and the last of the narcissi.

Included in garden entry is the monument-filled 14th-century Fitzalan chapel, where pairs of marble knights and ladies lie side by side. On one of my teenage South Downs’ hikes, I spent hours with a friend searching every church in town for the stone effigies featured in Philip Larkin’s 1956 poem An Arundel Tomb, only to find them later in Chichester Cathedral.

After walking around the gardens, I climb the narrow-stepped Norman keep for views that stretch to the sea. There’s plenty to look at inside the castle, too: paintings by Van Dyck and Canaletto, rooms full of crossbows and rapiers, lion pelts in the Great Hall, antlers in the corridors.

From Arundel station, I can see the hilltop church and castle, framed by woods and marshes. The scene is up there with England’s other great views from railway stations, such as Durham Cathedral or St Michael’s Mount. Rich in history and wildlife, the trip feels longer and more rewarding than a simple overnight break. Outside the train windows, herons guard the waterways and swans are nesting in the reeds.

Accommodation was provided by the Black Horse pub, doubles from £110 room-only. Train travel was provided by Southern

Situated along the UK coast is a county brimming with quintessential British villages and an array of scenic walking routes, and the most hygienic soft play centre for little ones

A beautiful UK county with ample walking routes and picturesque villages has the ‘cleanest soft play’ centre.

Soft play centres, with their cushioned equipment, ball pits, mats, slides and climbing frames, are not only a great way to keep young children entertained, but they also support their development. Children can improve their social skills, enhance their coordination, and develop physical movement while stimulating imagination and creativity in a fun, safe and secure environment.

So it’s no wonder that soft play is popular among parents and their little ones. Yet parents not only want to ensure the soft play is suitable for their child, but also want to know it’s hygienic before planning a visit.

READ MORE: The seaside town with beautiful beaches and 23C May temperatures ‘begging Brits to come’READ MORE: Not Bath or Oxford – ‘Venice of England’ is beautiful spot with stunning architecture and rich history

Luckily, the outdoor play specialists at Outdoor Toys have uncovered the cleanest soft play centres across 20 of the most popular UK counties, and there’s one that stood out from them all. Somerset ranked as the most hygienic soft play, according to the toy experts’ analysis of Tripadvisor reviews.

The experts revealed that fewer than 4 in 100 reviews mentioned hygiene issues at Somerset’s soft plays. Instead, unsanitary reviews made up just a mere 3.9% of all feedback on TripAdvisor, and parents praised the “clean and airy” environment at Space Adventurers Indoor Play in Taunton.

Other highly rated centres in Somerset include Play Haven SoftPlay, Ocean Adventurers Soft Play, and Safari Tots. But it’s not just the children’s play centres that warrant a visit to the county.

Somerset is packed with picture-perfect villages and picture-postcard landscapes, set against rolling hills, patchwork fields, dramatic gorges, coastal shores and ancient woodlands. Thanks to its acres of lush landscapes, the county is famously home to Glastonbury Festival at Worthy Farm in Pilton, and when the festival isn’t on, it offers ample walking opportunities, including to the summit of Glastonbury Tor.

Dunster is considered one of the prettiest villages in Somerset, with its preserved medieval architecture, more than 200 listed buildings and 17th-century Yarn Market, nestled within Exmoor National Park. There’s also the picturesque village of Selworthy, with its array of thatched cottages, All Saints Church, and scenic walking routes to Selworthy Beacon, a hill and Marilyn of Exmoor, which offer panoramic views across the coast.

There’s also the small village of Allerford, with its whitewashed thatched cottages and 15th-century packhorse bridge, located on the edge of Exmoor National Park. As well as the historic village of Mells, which has often been dubbed one of the prettiest in the UK, thanks to its ‘chocolate-box’ charm, with honey-coloured houses and walks along the Wadbury Valley and Mells River.

So why not combine a trip to the cleanest soft play centre with exploring the stunning vistas of Somerset? And with its position along the coast, you could even spend a day at the seaside during the warmer months.

Top 10 regions with the cleanest play areas

1. Somerset

• Total reviews: 908
• Unsanitary reviews: 35
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 3.9%

2. South Yorkshire

• Total reviews: 1,040
• Unsanitary reviews: 57
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 5.5%

3. Lancashire

• Total reviews: 1,106
• Unsanitary reviews: 65
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 5.9%

4. Greater Manchester

• Total reviews: 1,344
• Unsanitary reviews: 87
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 6.5%

5. Nottinghamshire

• Total reviews: 401
• Unsanitary reviews: 33
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 8.2%

6. Essex

• Total reviews: 1019
• Unsanitary reviews: 87
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 8.5%

7. Hampshire

• Total reviews: 1,020
• Unsanitary reviews: 96
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 9.4%

8. Lincolnshire

• Total reviews: 564
• Unsanitary reviews: 55
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 9.8%

9. North Yorkshire

• Total reviews: 457
• Unsanitary reviews: 50
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 10.9%

10. West Midlands

• Total reviews: 447
• Unsanitary reviews: 49
• Unsanitary reviews (%): 11.0%

Kim May, Creative Arts Therapist at ISP Fostering, revealed the benefits of soft play centres for young children. She told the Outdoor Toys team: “Spending time in play centres helps children to embrace the play and imagination stages of their development and is beneficial for socialisation and the development of physical and cognitive skills.

“When children are in their most infant years, development is about harnessing imagination and mobility skills, and lots of what they learn is through sensory experiences – soft play can positively contribute to this. For children under four years old in particular, they rely on their sensory memory a lot (taste, touch, sound, feel, and sight). Even if a child is too small to physically move or interact with toys or a play area, they are still learning and developing through their senses.”

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com