With spooky season upon us, John Ellis settled down for a night with the ghosts and ghouls at Chillingham Castle
As I switched off the light and climbed into bed, I trembled with fear. I was spending the night with the ghosts and ghouls at Britain’s most haunted castle – Chillingham, in Northumberland. I’ve loved all things spine-chilling for as long as I can remember. Horror films, ghost tours – I can’t get enough. That said, I have to say, lying in the dark in a place where people experience the paranormal on a daily basis, I did begin to wonder what I’d got myself into. Would there be a bump in the night? Only time would tell. But with Halloween just around the corner and spooky season in full swing, there was never a better time to find out.
Chillingham Castle dates back to the 13th century, although there’s been evidence of occupation on the site for 4000 years. It used to be a stronghold which protected England from Scotland and has therefore seen its fair share of violence. And it’s grim and grisly past lives on to this day with regular reported visits from beyond the grave.
“Chillingham has had many turbulent times and a fair amount of Scottish prisoners met their end here,” Richard Craig, Chillingam’s ghost hunt guide, tells me. “Then, when the castle moved into domestic matters and became more of a gentleman’s manor, there were a lot of staff coming in and out, along with all the aggravations of the time. They have embedded themselves in the walls of the place too. Along with nearby burial sites, there seem to be lines of energy at Chillingham which make it a meeting place for the moved on.”
Richard sees spooks all the time. “We’ve had some pretty curious occurrences. I could sit and talk to you all week. Yes, I’ve seen ghosts. It goes on day and night. On Wednesday I observed three different apparitions. One of them, it was raining at 4.30pm in the afternoon, on the south lawn. It lasted about five seconds and then it was gone. They like stairways too, areas of passage.”
Not all supernatural encounters are visual, he says. “Some you see, some you don’t. You might simply sense their presence. You might get a funny feeling, or one of sadness. There could be a strange smell. Lady Mary for example smells of roses, while the ghost of Crawling Key smells of rotten cabbage.”
Some are friendly, some are not. “Some have a sense of humour,” says Richard. “Simon the stone mason, he’s a shoulder tapper. He likes to mess about with men with tufty hair at the back. Crawling Key however goes for ladies’ ankles.”
Some of Chillingham’s ghosts lived there, some worked there. “One came through on a ghost listening app and told me his name – Booey – and I then found his name in one of the old books on site. He held quite a high position on the estate.”
On my arrival through the grand castle gates I had an uneasy feeling immediately. You could almost feel the history weighing on you in the courtyard. Chatting to Richard, it seemed I was not alone – in every sense of the saying. “The courtyard is haunted by the executioner… and a man named John,” he tells me. “If you go out after dark, chances are you’ll meet him – and the rest of our resident ghosts.”
Beside me, I could feel the regret radiating from my friend Glen for agreeing to come with me on my trip to Chillingham. “Why did I agree to this?” he muttered on a frequent basis throughout. But – sorry Glen! – it was too late to back out now. Richard advised us to download a couple of apps to enhance our paranormal experience. I know, right? Very high tech for a ghoul. But Ghost Talker Lite and Spirit Box, Richard said, would help us to communicate with any of the deceased who wished to make our acquaintance.
And later, ghost John did indeed come through. “John. Danger. Weapon…” the words popped up on the app. My twin, Stu, who had also come along for the ride, bristled at the encounter. Did he mean I – John – was in danger? Or he – also John – was in danger? I couldn’t be sure, but for one of us was impending peril. It sent a shiver down my spine knowing a ghost was so nearby.
Feeling spooked, we decided to walk around the castle grounds for some mental respite. However, we found none, instead chancing upon the castle’s Hanging Trees, a tangled mess of tumbled-over yews, the branches on which intruders and prisoners were once – as the name suggests – hung, until their flesh fell off their bones. How lovely. A clear night, the moon was out. A gentle breeze through the trees made an eerie creaking sound. Chilled to my core, I couldn’t get away fast enough.
So… do most people make it through their night at Chillingham Castle? I have to say it wasn’t looking good for the three of us. “The amount of runners I’ve had is unbelievable, lots of people chicken out,” laughs Richard. “One group of seven, we’d only been going 90 minutes and they couldn’t take any more. One of them kept getting poked in the ribs by a ghost and another was being pushed around. Even the tea room is haunted.”
I tell Richard where we’re staying in the castle – The Tower Apartment. “Ah yes, that is haunted,” he says. Glen nearly passes out. Stu turns pale. Richard continues: “In 2022, I stayed over, went to the bathroom, I was just about to turn the tap on, and a girl’s voice said ‘hello’. I had a good look around – no one.” So far, so terrifying.
And indeed, it was a fitful night’s sleep to say the least. Glen slept with the light on. Stu was unbothered and snored his way til morning. And me? Every sound I heard, every bang or bump, I wondered if it was a paranormal pest… or simply the castle’s ancient plumbing playing up. Dawn seemed to take an age to come, and when it did arrive I was grateful. We rose wearily, looked about the room, and began to pack our things. I had survived my night in Britain’s most haunted castle – just.
*Apartments at Chillingham Castle start from £139 for two people for one night
