neighbourhoods

AS the train rumbles out of the station, our heads turn to admire the stunning views from the dining car’s windows.

When the conductor announces each new destination, a feast of flavours is served up while we admire the changing landscapes.

But what’s even more incredible is the fact I am currently on board the largest cruise ship in the world — and sailing the calm blue waters of the Mediterranean.

The Royal Railway is the latest immersive dining experience to be savoured on board Legend Of The Seas.

You’ll begin your journey at the station — with the chance to pick up a cocktail or two from the bar — before entering an authentic train carriage and sitting down to a five-course feast as the train travels along Marco Polo’s ancient Silk Route including China, India, Turkey and Italy.

With some culinary corkers on the menu such as butter chicken, grilled lamb chops and Silk Road Shrimp, plus to-die-for Italian desserts, it’s a world away from a soggy sarnie on platform three at Clapham Junction.

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Like everything on this gargantuan ship — the third Icon-class vessel from Royal Caribbean — the attention to detail is staggering.

With 28 restaurants, eight neighbourhoods, six waterslides and room for 5,610 passengers, the multi-billion-dollar floating city certainly made an entrance in Malaga earlier this month. And I was one of the first on board the largest cruise ship in the world.

Billed as the ultimate family vacation, this next-generation newcomer is a riot of colour and energy from dawn to dusk, and there is something to float everyone’s boat, from lazy beach retreats to thrilling theme parks.

Holidaymakers of all ages will easily keep hunger pangs at bay grazing on food from 28 venues — the most you’ll find at sea — with every neighbourhood bringing something to the table.

Other new eateries include Hollywoodland Supper Club. Inspired by old Hollywood, this multi-course dinner is accompanied by live jazz and craft cocktails, giving guests the chance to get glam.

While this and the Royal Railway come at quite a hefty extra cost — around £144pp — there are a staggering 13 complimentary eateries included in the price of your cruise.

In the AquaDome Market you can take another global foodie tour with stalls serving up everything from Korean rice bowls to tapas bites and crepes, plus a new juice and smoothie bar for health-conscious sailors.

I also worked my way around some of the bars including 1400 Lobby Bar, which is inspired by the history of shipbuilding, and Lou’s, which evokes moody New Orleans and New York jazz bars with live performances and cocktails.

Those wanting a livelier tipple should head to the brilliant Dueling Pianos, which buzzes well into the early hours.

Outside, the mega resort facilities are designed for non-stop family fun — minigolf, rock-climbing and a surf simulator can all be found on decks 16 and 17 — and thrillseekers can dangle daringly over the water on Crown’s Edge, a part skywalk, part zipline experience 154ft above the ocean.

This playful ship is certainly making a splash, with Category 6 holding the crown as the largest waterpark at sea, while Royal Bay is the largest pool on the waves.

Splashaway Bay and Baby Bay are nestled in the purpose-built Surfside family neighbourhood, while it’s strictly adults-only at The Hideaway with its suspended infinity pool and DJ, and Swim & Tonic swim-up bar.

Early nights are out — the last thing you’ll want to do is sleep for fear of serious FOMO.

The ship’s entertainment offering is next level and I was captivated by everything I watched. This included Roald Dahl’s West End-worthy Charlie And The Chocolate Factory complete with a 15-strong live orchestra, AquaTheater’s Shockwave, where synchronised swimmers, high divers and aerialists highlight the power of water, and the ice-skating spectacle with drones at Absolute Zero’s show, Fusion.

Alongside live music and tribute bands, there are themed parties including a Y2K dance party, karaoke sessions, live trivia and silent discos.

Those familiar with Royal Caribbean’s Icon Class ships will be pleased to see the return of well loved spaces including Royal Promenade with its floor-to-ceiling ocean views.

There’s also the Pearl — the world’s largest kinetic art sculpture — weighing as much as a Boeing 747 — and the open-air Central Park, with over 30,500 lush plants as well as restaurants, live music, and pick-up windows for sushi and champagne.

With 29 types of accommodation, when it comes to hitting the sack, you and your tribe will slumber in style. On Legend Of The Seas, there are more rooms with ocean views and for groups of three, four, five and more.

The Surfside Family Suites are ideal for two adults and two kids, with the Family Infinite Ocean View Balcony cabins accommodating six, and Surfside Family View Balcony cabins sleeping three or four.

To really push the boat out, check into the exclusive four-deck Suite Neighbourhood or the Ultimate Family Townhouse, a three- storey pad that can sleep up to eight people.

Inside there’s a slide, dedicated entertainment spaces, and three balconies — lucky residents even get a money-can’t-buy experience with Royal Caribbean’s second Chief Dog Officer, a playful golden retriever pup named Skipper.

This showstopper of a ship is truly the stuff of Legends.

“DON’T go cheating!” the bartender tells me after I sloshed a bit too much vodka in the cocktail mixer.

He was right — my pisco sour ends up being more punchy than I’d planned.

I’m not sure I’ll be working as a bartender in Lima any time soon.

Thankfully the city has more than enough of them, with the Peruvian capital often named a top food and drink destination.

The place may be nicknamed Lima La Gris (from the large grey clouds that frequent the sky) but the city is certainly colourful when it comes to both gastronomy and architecture.

One of its brightest districts is the vibrant and noisy Barranco.

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Often referred to as among the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, the bohemian area is popular with surfers heading to the beach and art lovers adding to the hundreds of muralled walls.

Walking down the street is a feast for the eyes with men playing guitars outside multi-coloured houses, while cyclists zoom past with wetsuits on.

With more than 200 pieces of artwork across the neighbourhood, it feels more like an open-air art gallery.

And the city is fast making a name for itself when it comes to food, with many award-winning restaurants also found here.

One of those is Mayta, a World’s 50 Best Restaurants winner in Miraflores, made up of structured wood and concrete blocks.

While the seven-course tasting menu was tempting, I didn’t have four hours to kill, so opted for the à la carte.

I started with the fresh and zingy limey ceviche before I filled up on their take on paella with a crispy rice parcel surrounding shrimp.

For something a little more ­wallet-friendly, in the ­Miraflores neighbourhood, I found Parque Kennedy, known for its huge number of street vendors selling cheap snacks.

For around a fiver, my hands were quickly filled with herbal “emoliente” drinks that stave off hangovers, picarones (sweet doughnuts made of squash) with honey and chicharron pork sandwiches.

Peruvians love massive portions, I soon found out. And I was told that the best way to work off all the food would be to hit the waves, of course.

But with my surf skills lacking, I instead opted for a bike tour of the city, taking in the spectacular coastline, as well as the famous Love Park.

Inspired by Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi, sculptor ­Víctor Delfín built a wall of tiles, surrounding the famous El Beso sculpture of couples embracing.

Peru’s huge exports of coffee and chocolate mean you can barely walk five minutes without spotting a chocolataria.

As a self-professed choc expert, I was extremely smug after one cocoa class, naming all of the regions I tasted correctly.

A few hours away, Peru’s tiny second city of Arequipa, in the shade of the Misti volcano, is even more overlooked than Lima, yet the food is just as incredible.

My favourite way to spend the morning was jogging in the main central square, watching the sunrise over the Basilica Cathedral of Arequipa.

That running was preparing my body for yet more fantastic restaurants.

There was the vibey 13 Monjas (13monjas.com), with huge portions of Peruvian inspired pasta and Chica (chicha.com.pe) with yet more huge portions of fish tacos.

Yet there was one thing missing from my trip to Peru so far — and that was a cuddle with a llama.

Leaving the cosmopolitan cities, I went in search of the fluffy animals through the Colca Canyon region.

We sped through arid deserts, barely seeing a soul, bar a few locals by an abandoned train track.

Ears popped as we climbed the mountains across Lord Of The Rings-esque epic landscapes.

I was warned to expect some altitude sickness and I was certainly unsteady on my feet as we hit 4,900 metres.

It’s a few hours into my journey that I gasp as I finally see them — a traffic jam of wild llamas and alpacas.

Lazily grazing on the side of the road like oversized sheep, they seemed non-plussed as they sauntered over the road in front of us.

But just seeing them wasn’t enough for me. I wanted to get up close and personal.

Our abode for the night was in the village of Sibayo with a local family who had lived in the area for generations.

It was here that we were joined by a farmer, who excitingly told us we would be going on a llama walk.

It was only as we got up close that I realised quite how tall they were, some towering over my mere 5ft 5in height.

But my excitement never dwindled.

We walked across the beautiful river as they followed me like I was their leader.

I couldn’t resist a ruffle of their heads, with their ears cutely flipping up whenever we stopped.

Returning to our lodges, the evening was spent learning how to knit and dance.

The warm hospitality was evident throughout the stay, with free bracelets and shots of alcohol while listening to music and even a hot breakfast bag before leaving.

By the end of our stay, there were hugs all around, with our guide telling us how he always feels sad saying goodbye to tourists.

A feeling that is mutual it seems from the full guestbook of goodbyes.

I wasn’t ready to return to cold England that’s for sure – but a bag full of local coffee and alpaca socks certainly helped.