neighbour

Why go now

This once declining industrial city is on the up, but not so much that it has been ruined – yet. See it now, mid-gentrification, before its humble seafood restaurants become overpriced and its beautifully curated museums and galleries overrun.

Five miles north-west of Porto city centre, Matosinhos (pronounced mh-to-ZEE-nyosh) is a municipality built on the fishing. After the construction of the vast Port of Leixões in the 19th century, its fishing industry boomed and supported 54 canneries in its mid-20th-century heyday. Two survive, but most have been demolished, along with the textile factories and sugar refinery that occupied the district south of the harbour, next to the extensive sands of Matosinhos beach, which are fringed by surf schools and rammed with Porto residents in summer.

Luxury apartment blocks have risen from the ashes of once prosperous industries, but these stand cheek by jowl with 19th-century tiled houses, abandoned buildings daubed with graffiti and faded mid-century architectural classics championing raw concrete. The faculty of architecture at the University of Porto exerted its influence on the city’s renaissance, and sights include works by Pritzker prizewinning architect Álvaro Siza, born in Matosinhos, and the coolly contemporary Casa da Arquitetura – a cultural centre and exhibition space incorporating Siza’s remodelled family home, plus warehouses used for bottling and packing port wine in the 19th century. When I visited, it was deserted.

Where to eat and drink

In 2025 Matosinhos was recognised as a Unesco creative city of gastronomy for its long history of harvesting and preparing produce from the sea. Though Leixões port has huge container docks and a futuristic cruise terminal, part of it remains a fishing harbour with its own fish market. Behind it is Rua Heróis de França, a street packed with seafood restaurants – many dating from the 1950s, when fishers set up basic premises in which to cook and serve their catch.

Here, the air is filled with the smoky aroma of grilled sardines. Follow your nose and take your pick as most are good, affordable – from €20 for two courses and a drink – and serve not just sardines but horse mackerel, golden bream, sea bass and percebes (goose barnacles), plucked from the rocks, a nugget of salty flesh extracted from a leathery tube.

The bounty of the sea is on show at the strikingly modern Mercados Municipais, where the first floor serves as an “incubator” for design and architecture start-ups. Downstairs, you can select fish from a stall and have it cooked at an outlet on the fringes, or check out Bistrô by Vila Foz, a spin-off from the Michelin-starred Vila Foz in Porto, presided over by chef Arnaldo Azevedo. I had tuna tartare with avocado and chilli, horse mackerel escabeche, and a cataplana fish stew.

Across the Leça River is the parish of Leça da Palmeira. Next to the 17th-century Leça da Palmeira fort, Rua do Castelo has a handful of decent, reasonably priced restaurants – as well as the O Batô nightclub, a 1970s classic, one of several bars in the area. Back near the port, A Marisqueira de Matosinhos restaurant serves the most generous seafood platter I have tasted. Soup, main course and wine from €45.

Heading north up the coast, 7 miles from Matosinhos is Angeiras with its beachy, sun-drenched Atlantic vibe and small fishing community. A Casa do Gordo serves shared plates of percebes, prawns, octopus, grilled sardines and codfish tempura, and main courses including bream with arroz malandro (a soupy rice dish). Meals from €30 a head, with wine.

Cultural experiences

Here, it is all about architecture – not just signature works by Álvaro Siza and other Portuguese masters, but the pristine and pleasing spaces in which everything from art to tins of sardines is presented. One highlight is the Piscina das Marés, Siza’s stunning 1960s complex of two seawater pools, changing rooms and bar, following the rocky contours of the coast in Leça da Palmeira. Busy in high summer, it is best visited in June or September for a taste of Siza’s playful use of light, shade and ocean views and his love of weather-resistant concrete and wood.

The same materials and mischief are evident at Siza’s landmark Casa de Chá da Boa Nova, opened as a tea room in 1963 and now a two-Michelin-star restaurant with a €140-plus tasting menu. Stand on the rocky promontory outside and take in views of the coast and the Farol da Boa Nova, the second-tallest lighthouse in Portugal.

For a cultural one-stop shop, head to the area around the city hall, where the Galeria Municipal exhibits works by Portuguese contemporary artists. Opposite is the Museu da Memória, located in the Visconde de Trevões mansion, built between 1910 and 1913 as a home for rubber baron and philanthropist Emídio José Ló Ferreira. Beautifully restored, airy and inviting, it is now a museum celebrating the history and culture of Matosinhos, with an Archive of the First Person – recordings made by local people sitting in a soundproof booth.

On Avenida Menéres, immerse yourself in the light, space and designer ambience of Casa da Arquitetura, housed in part of the Quarteirão da Real Vinícola complex of renovated wine warehouses, with exhibition spaces, a cafe, a shop and an archive of architectural projects from Portugal and its former colonies. A couple of blocks away, Conservas Pinhais is one of two surviving canneries in the city and offers interactive tours of its sardine factory and museum – highly professional and fun.

Where to shop

Flashy stores selling designer furniture and covetable surfing gear are springing up, but in Matosinhos (as opposed to Porto) retail therapy isn’t really a thing; food is the focus. Pick up beautifully packaged tins of Pinhais or Nuri branded sardines after your factory tour, or shop for cheeses, olive oils or rice at the Mercados Municipais.

Don’t miss

Of all the city’s architectural landmarks, the futuristic Porto Cruise Terminal is the most conspicuous. Dominating the Port of Leixões, the white circular building recalls (variously) coiled ribbons, a seashell – thanks to the play of light on the million hexagonal tiles cladding its surface – and an octopus with four “tentacles” that are actually ramps. Completed in 2015, and the catalyst for a tourism boom in Matosinhos, it houses the laboratories of CIIMAR, a University of Porto research and training institution dedicated to maritime science. The view from the rooftop is sensational and a guided tour (Sundays only) essential.

Where to stay

Totally in keeping with Matosinhos and its history is the Vintage Beach House (doubles from £111), built in 1851 and once the holiday home of Portuguese aristocrats. Faithfully restored with period details intact, including a majestic wooden staircase, the seven-bedroom guesthouse with its red facade is family-owned and near the beach, but most rooms are small and there is no restaurant. For more space and facilities but less character, consider Eurostars Matosinhos (doubles from £63) or the Sea Porto Hotel (doubles from £82).

The trip was organised by the City of Matosinhos; meals were provided by the restaurants named

DISCOVERING a destination that feels like you’re living a fairytale is always fun, but it is even better when the place has less crowds.

Annecy in France is often overlooked by its busier neighbour – Geneva in Switzerland.

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But according to Holiday Pirates, the destination feels as if it’s been “lifted straight from a fairytale”.

The lakeside town can be found near the Swiss border and to get there, travellers can head to Geneva Airport and drive under an hour across the border to Annecy.

And just like a fairytale, the town has its own castle… in the middle of the water.

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Le Palais de l’Isle dates back to the medieval period and sits in the middle of the Thiou Canal, which stretches around two miles long and is an outlet of Lake Annecy – Europe‘s cleanest lake.

The canal flows through the Old Town and is the reason Annecy got its nickname as the ‘Venice of the Alps’.

And travellers can visit the castle as well, which also used to be a prison but is now a museum where you can see the preserved cells and learn about the architectural history of Annecy.

It costs just £3.46 per person to visit.

It isn’t just the castle that makes the town fairytale-like though; visitors can also explore pastel-coloured houses in the Old Town and bridges covered in flowers that cross the canal.

For a nice walk, you can wander the entire length of the canal from Lake Annecy to the Fier River via a flat trail.

On Tuesdays, Fridays and Sundays, there’s a market in the Old Town as well.

On Tuesdays, the market sells local produce and then on Fridays and Sundays the market is slightly bigger, with other goods such as locally-made textiles also sold.

You’ll find Musée-Château d’Annecy in the Old Town too, where visitors can browse regional sculptures and paintings.

For those who like seeing nature and wildlife, head to Parc Animalier de la Grande Jeanne, which is an open-air zoo with free admission.

Across the park visitors can see different types of deer and goats, with one recent visitor commenting: “The hike included a beautiful lookout point over the city”.

At the edge of the park you’ll find Basilique de la Visitation – a 20th- century cathedral with views of the surrounding mountains from its bell tower.

Also at the edge of the park is Plage des Marquisats, which is a small lake-side pebble beach with crystal-clear water and free entry.

For couples visiting, make sure to cross the Pont des Amours bridge near Jardins de l’Europe – a tree-lined lakeside park; kissing on the bridge is supposed to lead to a lifetime together.

From the town you can rent a bike and cycle your way around Lake Annecy on a 26-mile dedicated loop, stopping off at the quaint villages along the way including the medieval village of Duingt, with stone buildings and narrow alleys.

When it comes to eating in Annecy, there are tons of local cafes and restaurants to choose from.

The destination is known for its melted cheese, including Fondue, Raclette and Tartiflette, which includes potatoes, bacon and melted Reblochon cheese.

Thanks to its lakeside location, a lot of restaurants also serve fresh fish.

If you fancy a pint you can even head to a pub, such as Captain Pub, with a wooden bar and tall stools inside.

You can expect to pay around €4.70 (£4.06) for a pint in most places, or for a glass of wine, €6 (£5.18).

There’s a whole host of places to stay in Annecy.

For example, you could stay at Mercure Annecy Sud Hotel from £74 per night.

The hotel features modern interiors, with a restaurant, pool and spa.

Alternatively, right by the lake you could stay at Hôtel Impérial Palace Annecy from £189 per night.

The hotel was built back in 1913 and boasts rooms with balconies overlooking the lake.

The hotel has two restaurants and a bar that faces the lake, as well as a spa.

If you want a bargain holiday, you could head to Annecy for three nights with Holiday Pirates from just £115.50 per person, in early October.

You’d stay at Hotel Les Muses, with flights included too, to Lyon Airport – which is about an hour and 40 minutes from Annecy.

Or you could fly to Lyon Airport from London, costing from £29 return in June and then hop on a Flixbus from just £13.49 per person, per way.

Alternatively, direct flights from London to Geneva cost from £56 return in June.

You could then hop on a 45 minute Flixbus to Annecy from the airport, costing just £5 per person, per way.

You could even tie in a stay in Geneva as part of your trip and explore the city as well as Annecy.

A UK seaside town is set to receive a new direct train service to London.

The “underrated” seafront spot is often overlooked by tourists for more popular Welsh beaches.

Welsh Labour has pledged to create a direct rail service that will link Milford Haven, in Pembrokeshire, to London.

Passengers will be able to travel straight from the seaside town to the capital with the new route, which promises to bolster economic and tourism growth in the surrounding area.

Alongside the speedy service to London, the upgrade would also include an hourly service and safety improvements to the station’s level crossing.

The new route will build upon the current £50 million investment into Milford Haven’s transport links.

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Refurbishments on the town’s railway service are already underway, aiming to develop Milford Haven into a modern transport hub.

Plans for the renovation include new modern facilities, a relocated train platform, improved walking and cycling routes, a new taxi rank and better parking.

The investment is being delivered in partnership by the Welsh Labour Government and Pembrokeshire County Council.

The First Minister of Wales and leader of Welsh Labour, Eluned Morgan, said: “This pledge sits alongside a record commitment to rail in Wales – up to £14 billion of investment, new stations and a transformed Metro.”

“But this is about more than just a rail line.

“It’s about opening Pembrokeshire up – bringing more people to one of the most beautiful parts of Wales, strengthening our tourism sector, and creating new opportunities for local businesses to grow.

“This is how we build a stronger future for west Wales – with better connections, more opportunity and an economy that works with our environment, not against it.”

Milford Haven, located on the Pembrokeshire coast, is an “underrated” seafront town, according to Wales Online, often overlooked for the more popular seaside spot of Tenby.

Less crowded than its competitor, visitors to Milford Haven will find charming shops, restaurants and sandy beaches.

The harbour town is also home to Wales’s largest fishing port.

The proposed direct rail service will aim to develop tourism in the town and surrounding Pembrokeshire area, and support the local economy.

Marc Tierney, Welsh Labour candidate for Ceredigion Penfro, said: “A direct train to London from Milford would be a game changer for our communities – boosting tourism, supporting local businesses and making it easier for people to live and work here.

“The work underway to transform Milford Haven station into a modern transport hub, alongside plans for an hourly service, shows what Welsh Labour can deliver when we work in partnership with local authorities – investing in the infrastructure our communities deserve.

“With new funding from the UK Labour Government and a strong partnership in place, we can now go further.”

This lively village beat seaside favourites from Brighton to Folkestone to be named the best beach location in the UK. But many people overlook it as a destination as a famous seaside town is just down the road

Set along the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, it’s easy to overlook this charming village. After all, you’ve got so much to see on this one stretch of coast, from the classic seaside town of Tenby to the family-friendly Pendine Sands.

Saundersfoot has often been snubbed as a coastal destination thanks to its famous neighbours, but it’s now topped Time Out’s list of the 16 best seaside towns in the UK. The publication summed it up as “an energetic village with one of Wales’ best-looking beaches”, praising its beachfront saunas, independent restaurants, and Blue Flag beach.

Its wide sandy beach has lifeguards during the summer, so you can take a dip in the shallow waters. Next to the beach, you’ll find a charming harbor area where you can see small fishing boats coming in, as well as browse a range of surf shops, cute cafés, and shacks selling snacks and ice cream.

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While you can enjoy strolls along the promenade, it’s not just the sea views that will keep you interested. A series of old tunnels, which used to belong to a railway, are open for walkers, taking you through the heart of the cliffs. The walk from the town to Wisemans Bridge includes lots of places to stop for a cup of tea on the beach, or sometime exploring rock pools when the tide is out.

Away from the seafront, Saundersfoot has a compact high street with the usual seaside town shops, and there’s a focus on independent businesses, so you can pick up artisanal souvenirs and arts and crafts.

Close to the village is the charmingly old-fashioned Folly Farm Adventure Park and Zoo, a holiday park that has its own fairground with vintage rides such as carousels and dodgems. There’s also a small zoo with a barn where kids can get up close and stroke various friendly animals.

Manor Wildlife Park is also just a short drive away. This open-air zoo has a number of trails where you can spot exotic animals from around the world, and includes both an indoor soft play and outdoor playground, so there’s something for all weathers.

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Along the seafront, you’ll find a number of places to stay, such as the St Brides Spa Hotel, famous for its clifftop views across the harbor and beach. The Gower Hotel offers traditional seaside hotel vibes, offering three-star accommodation, as well as a bar and restaurant that serves freshly-caught fish from the sea just steps away.

Despite its newest honour, Saundersfoot remains a relatively inexpensive coastal property spot. According to Zoopla, the average house price last year was £279,000, making it a cheaper place to enjoy seaside living than many other towns on the Time Out list.

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THINK crystal clear waters, dolphin spotting and independent boutiques – well, the UK’s best seaside destination has all of this.

Less than three miles from its popular and busier neighbour – Tenby – you’ll find Saundersfoot in Pembrokeshire, Wales.

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Named the best seaside spot in the UK by Time Out, it said: “Saundersfoot is one of Pembrokeshire’s most energetic spots” adding that it has a “lively spirit”.

One of the top things to do in the village is of course heading to the beach, which stretches more than half a mile long.

The Blue Flag beach is a popular spot for families as it has shallow water and boasts a lot of fun activities such as canoeing, windsurfing and swimming.

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The beach has also previously been named as one of the cleanest beaches in the world by TripAdvisor.

You might even be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of dolphins or a grey seal from the beach.

At one end of the beach you’ll find the harbour, which dates back to 1829 and was built as an industrial port to export coal from local mines.

Today, the harbour is a tourist hub for Saundersfoot, with a number of places to grab a bite to eat as well as a ship you can play crazy golf on.

If you like history, make sure to walk around the entire harbour, as at the end you’ll see Saundersfoot Lighthouse, which was built in 1848 to mark the entrance to the harbour.

From the harbour you can also hop on a boat trip with Saundersfoot Sealife Adventures to see local wildlife and Caldey Island for an hour and a half.

Each trip costs around £25 per adult and £20 per child.

Just steps away from both the beach and the harbour, you’ll find Hwyl Outdoor Sauna where you can enjoy a sauna session from just £9 per person.

Spread across a couple of roads, again just steps from the beach, there’s also the high street with independent boutiques, cafes and art studios.

Back in 2024, The Telegraph even noted how Saundersfoot is a “little-known hip town” that is the “perfect bolthole for those who want to see West Wales’s sights and lively towns but also enjoy quiet, sunset-watching downtime in the evening”.

From the village, you can head on a number of walks as well along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, where you will see amazing views of the coastline.

And just outside of the village, you can visit Folly Farm Adventure Park and Zoo which is home to a number of animals, rides and a recently updated play area.

The Pirate Adventure has a castle and a number of accessible play areas, including low level options for wheelchair users.

You can also opt to stay at the holiday park onsite, which in November was named one of the best family campsites in South Wales by the Campsites.co.uk awards.

There are other places to stay in and around Saundersfoot though, including Sunnyvale Holiday Park.

The holiday park has 53 caravans ideal for families and is less than a mile from Saundersfoot Beach.

Facilities at the park include a games room, kids play area, hot tubs, pet-friendly options and an indoor pool.

A two-night stay in August costs from £300.

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