National

Before we enter the clouds on snow-capped Helvellyn, I glance back down at Ullswater. The early morning sun is bursting around the dark corners of High Dodd and Sleet Fell, sending a flush of light across the golden bracken and on to the hammered silver of the lake.

Further away to the south, ragged patches of snow cling to the high gullies. The nearest village, Glenridding, can barely be seen behind the leafless trees and all I can hear is the gurgle of the stream. It is the quintessential Lakeland scene: the steep slopes above the water, the soft colours and hard rock, all combining into something inimitable. And judging by the photographic and artistic record, it is one that has hardly changed since the Cumbrian wind first ruffled a Romantic poet’s curls.

Our best loved national parks – the Lake District, Peak District, Eryri (Snowdonia) and Dartmoor – all officially opened 75 years ago, in 1951. It was the result of a long campaign, arguably begun by one of those Romantics, William Wordsworth, a poet whose particular love for the Lakes led him to observe that the area should be “a sort of national property, in which every man has a right and an interest who has an eye to perceive and a heart to enjoy”. The resident of Dove Cottage at Grasmere fought, successfully, against railway building, noting the stupidity of destroying something precious in the pretence of increasing its influence.

That niggling dilemma has dogged the national parks ever since, but if Wordsworth were here now, I think he might approve, at least at first glance. The fate of some Alpine beauty spots has been avoided: no high-rise buildings break through the trees, no sports infrastructure litters the summits, and engineers have not blasted tunnels for bigger, faster, road and rail connections.

The planning process is tortuous, and woe betide anyone who likes a colour not in the Farrow & Ball catalogue, but our national parks survive, without sacrificing too much of their original charm.

Back in the 1970s my dad began taking me on his hiking trips. In those days, I didn’t share his excitement at “the views”, but I instantly grasped the magic of swimming under waterfalls, scrambling along ridges and sitting on mountain tops to eat hard-boiled eggs dipped in salt. He took us to all the national parks, and introduced us to their highlights. It was the start of a lifetime of exploration.

Dartmoor

The only area in England and Wales that has legal wild camping, Dartmoor is also the most threatened. A recent report detailed the sorry decline in biodiversity on its sites of special scientific interest (SSSI), but the truth is it remains in a better state than many other places. What makes Dartmoor special is the sheer extent of heathland: over 11,000 hectares of heather, gorse, bilberry and moor grasses, inhabited by birds, lizards, snakes and some rare butterflies. The top bird here is the red grouse, recently recognised as a distinct species, making it only the second reliably identifiable endemic British bird species.

Dartmoor’s reputation for other, more controversial species, is firmly established. On my first visit as a boy, I was reading The Hound of the Baskervilles and also glued to reports of escaped large cats. When we hiked past the infamous prison, and dad told us about “the Mad Axeman” inside, Dartmoor was firmly established in my head as the single most exciting area of Britain. I’ve never had reason to change that view.

Arguably the most evocative place is Wistman’s Wood, which is accessed from Two Bridges hotel, but popularity tends to destroy mystery and this is now an Instagrammed honeypot. Other excellent woodlands can be found down the Lydford Gorge near Tavistock or the Bovey Valley near Lustleigh, a village of thatched roofs where a cream tea is the acme of snackery. Try the Primrose Tearooms.

Nearby is Haytor Rocks, a magnet for climbers, and everyone else. It’s beautiful but popular. For tranquillity, try the military firing ranges: there’s nothing like an M115 Howitzer to deter most hikers, or perhaps it’s simply the need to check live firing times. It does seem to put visitors off, and there are wonderful viewpoints to be found, such as Yes Tor and High Willhays.

Eryri

In Eryri, the hunt for peace and tranquillity has one rule: avoid Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon). Any other peak will be quiet in comparison. If you must go up Wales’s highest mountain, I suggest taking a less-frequented path, like the Watkin or Rhyd Ddu and go early – and I mean headtorch early. Another good option is the Ranger Path (Cwellyn), where the wind blew me off my feet as a nine-year-old. You might escape the crowds, but you can’t escape the weather.

Yr Wyddfa’s Crib Goch, one of Britain’s greatest ridge scrambles, can be a bit of a trial when oversubscribed, but there are many fine alternatives. Try Crib Lem on Carnedd Dafydd, accessible from Bethesda, or the Idwal Staircase, a tougher challenge that some might prefer to do roped up. Steve Ashton’s book Scrambles in Snowdonia is the essential guide.

One feature I love about Eryri is the way its industrial heritage has been repurposed to contemporary needs: the various slate mine attractions and the steam railways go from strength to strength. Bala Lake Railway has started work on extending its line into Bala town, a significant addition.

Lake District

The opening of the first parks triggered a wave of interest in hiking and a demand for route information. Like many others, my dad discovered Alfred Wainwright, whose hand-drawn pictorial guides are still a good way to find routes. Wainwright’s own favourite was Haystacks Fell, with an ascent from Buttermere via Scarth Gap. My own initiation into the joys of scrambling started with Wainwright routes up Lord’s Rake on Scafell Pike and Jack’s Rake on Pavey Ark, both serious undertakings.

Scrambling and its sister sports, fell-running and scree-racing, have a proud history in Lakeland. Over in Wasdale, sheep farmer Joss Naylor was an inspiration. As a teenager, I witnessed his hell-for-leather approach to scree slopes, transforming them from places to be avoided into a new challenge.

Wasdale, with its historic inn, remains a favourite. If the trail to Scafell Pike is often busy, look out for classic treks like the Mosedale Horseshoe, taking in Pillar, a stiff challenge when torn shreds of cloud are whistling around your ears. For the sure-footed, the climbers’ trail passing beneath Napes Needle is another gem. The Needle is a satisfying climb with historic importance. Photos of early pioneers the Abraham brothers, standing on top in their 1890s hobnail boots, fuelled interest in the new sport of rock climbing.

Across to the east, the 17½-mile trek from Pooley Bridge to Troutbeck over High Street is an absolute gem, with sustained panoramas on a clear day. Another classic is theKentmere Round, which normally starts at St Cuthbert’s church, near Staveley. For sheer delight in Cumbrian topographical names, the Kentmere Round is a must: Yoke Fell is followed by Wander Scar, Toadhowe Well and Shipman Knotts, among others. The best advice is to find a fell with an unfamiliar name, get the OS map and devise a route. Asking a local also usually pays off.

After an epic day of snow and ice on Helvellyn, I take my own advice. I am staying at Another Place hotel along the Ullswater north shore. The lakeside panorama tells the tale of changing times: there are paddleboards and kayaks on the water; groups heading off on wild swims; and a mobile sauna by the shore. Hotel director and local man David Vaughan tips me off about a favourite walk, on nearby Gowbarrow Fell.

The path starts at Aira Force waterfall, a well-known attraction, and the car park is busy. Beyond the falls, however, things are quieter. At 481 metres, the Gowbarrow summit is not high, but the panorama is superb. Further on comes the real climax: a balcony walk around the contours and above the lake.

A kestrel swoops past, close enough to see the wind ruffle its chestnut feathers. At the end, the path drops down to the woods and there’s a young woman, hesitating. Her kit looks fresh from the packet.

“Is there any scrambling up there?” she asks nervously.

“No,” I say, noticing her immaculate nails. “But there’s lots of mud.”

She takes a deep breath and grins. “OK.” Then sets off. Joss Naylor, my dad and the Romantic poets would all be proud. Our parks are still doing their best for us.

Accommodation was provided by Another Place, The Lake, in Ullswater, which has double rooms from £125 B&B. Further information, visit nationalparks.uk

Look at a satellite photograph of Britain taken on a clear night and the only things visible are the glowing street lights of towns and cities. If you cast your eyes to the centre of northern England, the distinctive, cupped-hand-shaped boundary of the Peak District national park is clearly outlined as an island of darkness washed by an ocean of light from the industrial conurbations of the north and Midlands.

It was established in April 1951 as the first national park in Britain. And that view from space gives the clearest indication possible of why this site was chosen – it put a national park where it was most needed in the country. It has been estimated that about a third of the population of England and Wales lives less than an hour away from the Peak District.

Reports say Sardar Azmoun, who plays for UAE club Shabab Al-Ahli, was expelled for Instagram post with Dubai’s ‌ruler.

Sardar Azmoun, one of ⁠Iran’s top football players, has ⁠been expelled from the national team for a perceived act of disloyalty to the government, Iranian media has reported, making it unlikely he will play any part in the upcoming FIFA World Cup.

Iran’s participation in the global football showpiece is under a cloud because of the ongoing conflict with the United States, who are co-hosting the June 11-July 19 tournament with Mexico and Canada.

If Team Melli do turn up for their opening-round group matches, they will ⁠undoubtedly be weakened by the absence of striker Azmoun, who has scored 57 goals in 91 internationals since making his debut as a teenager in 2014.

Azmoun, who plays his club football in the United Arab Emirates (UAE) for Dubai club Shabab Al-Ahli, upset the Iranian authorities this week by posting a picture on his Instagram feed of a meeting with Dubai’s ruler Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum.

Iran has launched rocket ‌and drone attacks on the UAE following air strikes by the US and Israel, which killed the country’s Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei.

A report on the Fars News Agency, which has links to the hardline Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps, cited “an informed source within the national team” as saying Azmoun had been expelled from the squad.

Pictures removed

Azmoun later removed the pictures but was still lambasted on state TV on Thursday, with football pundit Mohammad Misaghi saying the striker’s actions had been an act of disloyalty.

“It’s unfortunate that you don’t have enough sense to understand what kind of behaviour is appropriate ⁠at a given time,” Misaghi said.

“We should not mince words with such people. They should be ⁠told that they are not worthy of wearing the national team jersey.

“We have no patience for this sulking and childish behaviour. National team players should be people who proudly belt out the national anthem and deserve to wear the Iran jersey.”

There was no immediate response to a request for comment on ⁠the matter from the Football Federation of the Islamic Republic of Iran (FFIRI).

Azmoun, 31, is one of the best-known footballers in Iran, where the game is a national obsession.

He has played his ⁠entire club career abroad with stints at Zenit Saint Petersburg, Bayer Leverkusen and ⁠Roma, as well as featuring for Iran in the 2018 and 2022 FIFA World Cups.

An unsourced report on the Novad News channel said on Thursday that an order had been issued for the seizure of the assets of Azmoun, another UAE-based national team forward Mehdi Ghayedi, and former international Soroush Rafiei.

Misaghi was speaking against ‌the backdrop of pictures of a ceremony welcoming the Iranian women’s national team back to Tehran on their return from Australia.

Seven of the delegation accepted asylum in Australia after the team was branded “wartime traitors” on Iranian state TV for not singing the ‌national ‌anthem before a Women’s Asian Cup match. Five later decided to return to Iran.

Iran’s men are scheduled to play friendly internationals in Antalya, Turkiye, against Nigeria on March 27 and Costa Rica four days later as part of their World Cup preparations.

Winning tip: Whitebeams and roe deer in Bristol

I always take friends on an afternoon walk when they visit Bristol, to experience the swift changes in scenery: starting at the tobacco warehouses of Cumberland Basin before ascending from the muddy banks of the River Avon up into Leigh Woods, a national nature reserve. As well as possible animal sightings like peregrine falcons and roe deer, the woods are an important site for whitebeam trees, with several species only growing here. It’s easy to spend a full afternoon crisscrossing the trails before walking over Brunel’s famous suspension bridge for a well-deserved coffee at the Primrose Café in Clifton village.
Tor Hands

A seal colony on a Cumbrian island

South Walney nature reserve (£3 adults, £1 children) has an end-of-the-world feel. You drive through industrial Barrow-in-Furness to reach a windswept island that’s home to Cumbria’s only seal colony and a multitude of migrating seabirds. Curious seals surface as you gaze across the water towards Piel Castle, which can be reached by foot at low tide. More seals can be observed from the immaculately kept hides, full of hand-drawn illustrations, local history and specimens of skeletons and shells. There is even a livestream seal cam for a closer look.
Rebecca Alper Grant

Dartmoor’s way of the dead

Across Dartmoor’s torn spine, the Lych Way drags its long memory westward. Moor folk once hauled their dead like felled trunks, boots sinking in peat’s cold hunger. Wind gnawed faces raw; streams stitched ice through bone. Wheel ruts scarred earth, a ledger of grief. Farms emptied into distance, toward stone prayers waiting. Ravens watched slow processions darken the moor. Ten miles north, Ted Hughes’s memorial stone listens, weather-drunk, to their passing weight, and silence rooting deeper than time beneath heather, where footsteps fade yet pulse on, buried but breathing in Dartmoor’s black remembering heart that never loosens them.
John Chrimes

A cemetery now full of life in London’s East End

Tower Hamlets Cemetery Park is a truly magical place. Not your typical local nature reserve, and not your typical Victorian-era cemetery, this now deconsecrated space is truly a haven for human and non-human visitors. The site attracts an impressive array of flora and fauna thanks to its carefully “managed wildness”– an essential respite in London’s East End. Wander at your own pace or join the Friends (the charity which has carefully defended and managed the space since the 1990s) for a tour covering topics ranging from foraging and fungi to women’s history and grave symbolism.
LR

Coastal birding and a castle in Dumfries

The Dumfries and Galloway coast is a beautiful but often overlooked gem among Scotland’s natural offerings. Caerlaverock national nature reserve on the Solway Firth is a highlight, with its protected wetlands serving as a seasonal home for thousands of migrating birds, including geese, plovers and waders. It lends the place a year-round charm, even in the cold winter months. And if birdwatching isn’t your thing, you can still enjoy the excellent walks and cycle paths, stunning views and a rare sense of peace. Make sure to check out the nearby Caerlaverock Castle (from £6.50 adults, £3.90 children), with its picturesque setting – and unique triangle shape!
Allan Berry

Historic sailing on the Norfolk Broads

We were holidaying in the Broads national park when my husband told me that my birthday present was a day out on a historic wherry yacht. At the boatyard in Wroxham, an enthusiastic crew showed us round the boat, and within a few minutes we were watching the huge gaff-rigged sail rise up the mast. We sipped our tea, gliding silently past the reeds, and stopped for a guided tour of Bure Marshes national nature reserve. Lunch was a picnic on Salhouse Broad, and a treat was a cornet from the ice-cream boat. A perfect day on the water for £60 each.
Allison Armstrong

London’s hidden wetlands

Not many Londoners know that there is a real treasure of a nature reserve just 20 minutes from the city centre by tube. The Walthamstow Wetlands is a protected area, easily reached via Tottenham Hale railway/tube station. I often spend a day there with a picnic, a bird guidebook, a flask of coffee and a pair of binoculars. Birds come to the site to feed around the 10 areas of open water and marshland. Swifts and little ringed plovers arrive in spring. Much-travelled black-tailed godwits can also be seen and there’s even the chance of spotting a peregrine falcon. Enjoy the circular bird walk, viewing platforms and hiding areas. There are also weekly guided bird walks starting from the tube station from early spring. It’s free to enter and wander around the nature reserve. Trees and wild fauna abound everywhere you go – a brilliant oxygen overload after the traffic fumes of central London.
Joe

Hampshire’s alluring lagoons

I only meant to stop briefly at Titchfield Haven national nature reserve (£6.50 adults, £3.50 children), but it drew me in for the entire afternoon. Tucked between river and sea, it feels a world away from the busier south coast. I wandered slow, winding paths through reed beds and lagoons, pausing in a hide where a sudden flash of electric blue revealed a kingfisher. As the tide shifted, the landscape subtly changed and the light softened across the water. Nothing here shouts for attention, and that’s the magic of it – a place where doing nothing feels completely absorbing.
Diane

Lakeside magic in Eryri (Snowdonia)

Near Trefriw in the Eryri national park, there is a scenic walk around Llyn Crafnant reservoir. You can also walk over to Llyn Geirionydd from Llyn Crafnant to swim in the lake or paddleboard; it can get a little busy in the summer but it still feels like a little bit of a secret spot. For a big hike, you can walk down from here, past Crimpiau mountain, to Capel Curig, taking you from the Conwy valley to the Ogwen valley.
Bethan Patfield

On safari in Kent

The approach to Elmley national nature reserve (£10 adults, free for up to two accompanying children) is thrilling: precious saltmarsh habitat sandwiched between the elegant Isle of Sheppey road bridge and the looming hulk of a paper factory across the Swale estuary. The reserve’s safari-like access drive is surrounded by bubbling curlews, darting hares and patrolling marsh harriers, while lapwings cavort just feet from the car. As well as being the UK’s only privately owned national nature reserve, Elmley is also the only one you can stay overnight, so you can sip a drink outside your cosy hut or yurt while short-eared owls hunt for small mammals and barn owls glide silently past. Watching the wildlife action unfold on your own personal savannah is magical.
Cathy Robinson

Despite morale-sapping staff layoffs, bizarre executive orders and a 43-day federal government shutdown last fall, the grandeur and serenity of national parks in California remain irresistible to outdoors lovers looking to unwind.

The nine national parks in the Golden State — including Yosemite, Death Valley and Joshua Tree — attracted nearly 12 million recreational visits in 2025, according to statistics from the National Park Service.

That’s up more than 800,000 visits from 2024 and up more than 300,000 from the previous record set in 2019, according to the data, which stretches back to 1979.

Nationally, visits were high, at 323 million, but down a couple of percentage points from the record set in 2024, according to a park service press release.

“America’s national parks continue to be places where people come to experience our country’s history, landscapes and shared heritage,” said Jessica Bowron, acting director of the NPS.

“We are committed to keeping parks open, accessible and well-managed so visitors can safely enjoy these extraordinary places today and for generations to come,” Bowron added.

President Trump’s critics beg to differ.

Since Trump resumed office in January 2025, his administration has slashed the NPS workforce by nearly a quarter, buying out or laying off hundreds of rangers, maintenance workers, scientists and administrative staff across the country.

And last year, as part of his war on “woke,” Trump instructed the park service to scrub all signs and presentations of language he would deem negative, unpatriotic or smacking of “improper partisan ideology.”

He also ordered administrators to remove any content that “inappropriately disparages Americans” living or dead, and replace it with language that celebrates the nation’s greatness.

That gets tricky at places such as Manzanar National Historic Site in the high desert of eastern California — one of 10 camps where the U.S. government imprisoned more than 120,000 Japanese American civilians during World War II.

It’s also hard to dance around disparaging details at Fort Sumter National Monument, where Confederates fired the first shots of the Civil War; Ford’s Theater National Historic Site in Washington, D.C., where Abraham Lincoln was assassinated; and Martin Luther King Jr. National Historic Park, which commemorates the assassination of the country’s best known civil rights leader.

“This administration is actively erasing the history, science and culture that our national parks protect,” said Emily Douce, deputy vice president for government affairs for the nonprofit National Parks Conservation Assn.

Douce argued that morale among staff at the parks — a string of 63 federally protected natural wonders often described as “America’s best idea” — has never been lower.

But the fact that employees still showed up, including without pay during last year’s federal government shutdown, demonstrates their commitment to keeping the beloved parks flourishing.

“The enduring popularity of America’s national parks is not surprising,” Douce added. “What’s shocking is this administration’s relentless attacks on these places and their caretakers, which threatens their future.”

The White House did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

The National Park Service is routinely ranked among the most admired branches of the large and sprawling federal government. Even Americans who have never watched a minute of C-SPAN, or get a little lost in the alphabet soup of other agencies, will probably never forget standing in Yosemite Valley and admiring a towering waterfall.

There were 4.3 million visits to Yosemite in 2025, 2.9 million to Joshua Tree and 1.3 million to Death Valley, according to the data.

The 323 million visits to America’s national parks in 2025 are more than twice the attendance — 135 million — at professional football, baseball, basketball and hockey games combined.

Of course, it’s a lot cheaper to get into a park. U.S. residents pay between $20 and $35 per vehicle for a day pass, or $80 for an annual pass. The Trump administration recently raised the annual fee to $250 for foreign visitors.

National Park Service officials did not respond to emails requesting comment on California’s 2025 attendance.