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How trails are recovering from the Eaton and Palisades fires

Eaton Canyon and adjacent federal land that burned in the January wildfires in L.A. County will remain closed through 2026 and maybe longer given the extensive damage caused by the Eaton fire and subsequent flooding, county officials said during a recent news conference.

One of the most popular hiking areas in L.A. County, Eaton Canyon previously saw a million visitors per year. Officials said they’ve seen a spate of trespassers in the park since the fire, including one hiker who tried to reach Echo Mountain only to get lost and require rescue. Officials are pleading with the public to stay out of the area and let the land heal.

A person speaks during a news conference with other officials in the background near a fence.

Karen Mateer, vice president of the Eaton Canyon Nature Center Associates, speaks during a news conference last week in which officials asked the public to stay out of the Eaton fire burn scar to let the land heal.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

“With apologies to James Taylor, we’ve seen fire and we’ve seen rain, and I’ll tell you what, we’ve also seen a fair amount of air in the form of wind coming through the canyon,” said Karen Mateer, vice president of the Eaton Canyon Nature Center Associates. “Those are three of the basic elements of nature, and now we really need to focus on the fourth, the earth.”

Although it will take time for the land most damaged by the L.A. fires to heal, there are some areas of the burn scars that have recently reopened or will reopen soon.

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Here is the latest information on trails in three recent burn zones.

Eaton fire

The Eaton fire killed much of the plant life in Eaton Canyon, leaving the soil unstable. As such, boulders and burned trees can fall at any moment.

Norma Edith García-Gonzalez, director of L.A. County Parks and Recreation, said on one of her first visits to the canyon after the fire, a tree fell five feet in front of her. All hikers should heed the warnings to stay out, she said. Additionally, those who trespass could face substantial fines if caught.

For those wanting to see a waterfall like the gorgeous cascade that plummets down the mountain at Eaton Canyon, I’d recommend checking out the popular Switzer Falls. It was closed immediately following the Eaton fire, and there was some confusion about whether the trail had reopened. At last week’s news conference, Justin Seastrand, forest recreation manager at Angeles National Forest, confirmed it is open! However, the nearby Bear Canyon Trail Camp and the trail leading to it remain closed.

The burned hillsides around Eaton Canyon in the San Gabriel Mountains.

The burned hillsides around Eaton Canyon in the San Gabriel Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

A similar and beautiful trail, Millard Canyon, which also features a waterfall, will likely remain closed through 2026, as its restroom burned in the fire, Seastrand said.

Henninger Flats, a popular hiking destination north of Eaton Canyon, suffered even more serious damage, said Kim Bosell with L.A. County Parks. The old museum, propagation areas and restrooms are gone, and workers will need to remove that debris before the area is safe for hikers to access, Bosell said.

Before the fire, officials had planned to add Henninger Flats to the Eaton Canyon natural area, she said. “Unfortunately the fire took it before we could follow through with those plans, but what the future holds for it, we don’t know right now,” Bosell said.

Bridge fire

Last September, the Bridge fire burned almost 55,000 acres, including 25 trails on federal land.

The popular Bridge to Nowhere hike was near where the fire started and will remain closed for the foreseeable future, Seastrand told me, because the rivers and creeks in the area were seriously damaged during the fire and subsequent flooding. It’ll take tremendous manpower (and money) to bring it back online.

But, the good news is, the U.S. Forest Service revised the Bridge fire closure order last week to reopen two popular routes to Mt. Baldy, the Baldy Bowl Trail (Ski Hut) and Devil’s Backbone Trail. Bear Canyon, sometimes referred to as Old Mt. Baldy Trail, remains closed.

This reopening is more than a little bit exciting, considering the closure of these two trails was probably one of the least popular decisions that Angeles National Forest officials have made in a hot minute.

That said, you might notice these trails and others in the Mt. Baldy area, like Icehouse Canyon, are listed as closed on the forest service’s website when they’re actually open.

That’s, in part, because the U.S. Forest Service recently updated several forest websites and in doing so broke the links for several trails and campgrounds. The update rolled out about the same time that the federal government fired thousands of forest service workers. So, needless to say, it might be a minute before the website reflects reality. In the meantime, check the closure order if you have a question about what’s open. (You’re also welcome to email your local outdoors reporter!)

Palisades fire

In the coming weeks, hikers will be able to return to a handful of popular trails in and around the Palisades burn scar.

I spoke to Richard Fink, district superintendent for the Angeles District of California State Parks, who told me that some parkland and trails are closed not because of fire damage, but because they’re being used by state and federal officials in the recovery effort in the aftermath of the Palisades fire.

That list includes Will Rogers State Park, where Fink told me that the park was severely burned, but the trails are in great shape.

“We could open the trails at Will Rogers tomorrow if the rest of the park would be open,” Fink said. “There are actually a lot of trails that [the fire] really didn’t have any impact [on], and also due to our parks being closed, we’ve been able to perform a lot of the work already.”

An area of Topanga State Park near Eagle Springs Fire Road that did not burn in the recent Palisades fire.

An area of Topanga State Park near Eagle Springs Fire Road that did not burn in the recent Palisades fire.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Parts of Topanga State Park were used by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency for hazardous debris removal, and L.A. County Department of Water and Power is using part of the park to rebuild the power grid in the Palisades. Once those efforts are finished later this year, that region of the park should be able to reopen, officials said.

“The state park priority for parts of Topanga and parts of Will Rogers State Historic Park are first and foremost to help the recovery and then to eventually get them open to the public,” Fink told me.

The southern part of Topanga State Park suffered the worst damage in the Palisades fire and will remain closed for “a while,” in particular the area around the Topanga Ranch Motel, which was “completely destroyed,” Fink said.

There are trails that may take years to recover or may no longer be accessible to the public moving forward, he said.

The Palisades fire burned several acres through Topanga State Park where structures and popular hiking trails were destroyed.

The Palisades fire burned several acres through Topanga State Park, especially in the southern end of the park where structures were destroyed, as well as popular hiking trails.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The popular Los Leones Trail will remain closed, although it suffered minimal damage and was one of the first trails the state parks crew worked on in early March. Crews cleared burned vegetation, removed landslides and widened the trail. It’s in good structural shape, officials said, but will remain closed because the neighborhood near the trailhead remains closed to the public. Once the neighborhood reopens, a crew will need to remove plants that have grown in the path thanks to a lack of foot traffic.

But, dear Wilder, I do have some good news for you.

On Saturday, I hiked with Rachel Glegg, volunteer coordinator with the Santa Monica Mountains Task Force, who took me around Topanga State Park to see the trail work that the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter’s trail crew, state park workers and other volunteers have completed.

Thanks to those efforts, Glegg said, officials aim to open the following trails in the next few weeks:

  • East Topanga Fire Road from Trippet Ranch to Parker Mesa, although anything beyond the Parker Mesa junction will likely remain closed to keep the public away from neighborhoods burned in the fire
  • Eagle Rock Fire Road, Eagle Springs Fire Road and Fire Road #30 to the Hub Junction in Topanga State Park
  • The Garapito Trail in Topanga State Park, which Glegg’s crew is still working on, but is close to repairing fully
Several phacelia grandiflora plants are growing along a burned section of the Garapito Trail.

Several phacelia grandiflora plants are growing along a burned section of the Garapito Trail.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

On my trip with Glegg, I just kept saying, “This is so beautiful,” as I took in the views of the surrounding city and ocean. We spotted loads of wildflowers, including phacelia grandiflora and a small patch of California poppies. Like you, I am eager to return and make more memories in this beautiful, resilient landscape.

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

Child jumping in the play area of a park.

A child plays at a previous migration celebration hosted by the Friends of Ballona Wetlands.

(Friends of Ballona Wetlands)

1. Get up close with birds in Playa Vista
Friends of Ballona Wetlands will host its annual migration celebration from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturday at Ballona Discovery Park. Raptors will be present for visitors to see and learn about up close. Guests can also enjoy music, purchase native plants and partake in a scavenger hunt, along with tours of the freshwater marsh. Learn more at ballonafriends.org.

2. Celebrate National Bike Month in L.A.
People for Mobility Justice will host a community bike ride from 8:30 a.m. to noon Saturday, starting at Ted Watkins Memorial Park. As part of this celebration of National Bike Month, riders will travel through the Florence-Firestone area, learning about bike safety and local resources. Participants should bring water, along with their bike and helmet. Register at eventbrite.com.

3. Prance down open streets in Glendale
The city of Glendale will close 1.3 miles of Glendale Avenue from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday for its first car-free open streets event. Let’s Go Glendale will feature live music (including a strolling mariachi) and other arts and culture programming. Visitors can walk, run, bike or take the route in any other preferred people-powered way. Learn more at glendaleca.gov.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A female black bear and her cub in South Lake Tahoe

A female black bear and her cub scour a South Lake Tahoe neighborhood in search of food.

(Corey Arnold / For The Times)

It’s rare to see a black bear in the wild, and it’s even rarer for someone to be hurt by one, much less killed. That’s why it was so startling when news broke of the death of Patrice Miller, 71, who, a coroner’s report found, was killed by a black bear in her home. Times reporters Jessica Garrison and Lila Seidman wrote in their recent story that questions — and even disbelief — still exists around how Miller died. “We don’t believe the bear did it,” said Ann Bryant, executive director of the Bear League in the Tahoe Basin. “And I will go on record as saying that.” The bear in question has been killed. What remains is an intense debate over how California should manage its population of an estimated 65,405 black bears, especially those found lumbering around mountain towns.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

The U.S. Forest Service is taking public comment through Monday on its proposal to log trees and clear chaparral across 90,700 acres in Los Padres National Forest, which sits north of L.A. County and features gorgeous landscapes. “But this plan falls short and threatens habitat in many areas,” according to advocacy nonprofit ForestWatch. “The project emphasizes vegetation removal in remote areas — places that pose little threat to public safety but are rich in biodiversity, cultural value and recreational importance. The plan also allows for commercial logging, and it overlaps with roadless areas and endangered species critical habitat.” You can learn more at the organization’s website, where you can submit your comment as well. You can also submit your comment on this federal website.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

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What to do if you get stung by a stingray in the ocean

Last year, I started teaching you, dear Wilder, what to do if you see an animal on the trail who could possibly hurt you. We’ve learned a lot together!

I explained the importance of observing a bear’s behavior to determine your best course of action. Same goes for coyotes. I also taught you that, if you actually see a mountain lion, you want to make so much noise they think, “‘What the hell is that?’” and leave.

We learned how you should not throw rocks at rattlesnakes to get them to move off trail, but it is sometimes OK to give them a little nudge with a long stick or hiking pole. (Read: sometimes.)

I hope, like me, you feel safer and more prepared should you encounter one of these critters in the woods. Now, I want to instruct you on the importance of dancing at the beach. Yes, it’s for your safety. It’s a specific type of boogie known as the “stingray shuffle.”

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Stingrays live all over the world, including right here along the coastline of Southern California. Round stingrays, a sand-colored little cutie, are the most common of this cartilaginous fish group to be found around our beaches, and thus, the one you are most likely to step on.

That’s in part because they don’t want to be seen. Round rays are usually less than a foot long and often “cover themselves with mud or sand, leaving only the eyes and spiracles exposed,” according to the Aquarium of the Pacific, “an excellent camouflage technique.”

It’s less likely that you’ll see a bat ray in shallow water. If lucky, you might spot one of those swimming near a local pier.

Although data on the number of stings in L.A. County were not readily available, the experts I spoke to agreed that it’s common enough that you need to be prepared when you visit the beach. I’d usually end with “Let’s dive in!” to be cheeky, but that directly contradicts the advice below. Puns aside, here are five tips to avoid a painful stingray encounter at the beach.

1. Shuffle your feet as you enter the water

Rather than stepping into the ocean, you should shuffle your feet as you enter the water. This is the aforementioned “stingray shuffle,” where you kick up sand, hopefully causing enough of a commotion that it will prompt any rays in the area to swim into deeper water.

“Their first line of defense is to swim away,” said Sara Lesser, education supervisor at the Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach. “That stinger is the last thing they want to use, and they are pretty fast swimmers. If they get spooked, the first thing they’re going to do is try to get away from whatever spooked them.”

A bat ray in the water.

A bat ray, a species commonly found along the coast line from Oregon to the Gulf of California.

(Aquarium of the Pacific)

2. Don’t touch rays in the wild

At the aquarium, you can touch rays in a controlled setting around trained staffers. Out in the open ocean, don’t touch any animal, even if you perceive it to be gentle. Rays are wild animals too, and even if you’re out snorkeling, just watch it go by.

“They don’t have any interest or want to interact with us,” Lesser told me. “Snorkeling with them is a great way to see them, but make sure, like with all animals, [you] give them their space and distance. You’re entering their home. Be a quiet observer of them and their habitat.”

3. Be aware of your continued risk of being stung

Stingrays can be found anywhere along the ocean bottom, but you should especially use caution when walking along a nice flat seabed on a calm day when the water is shallow and warm.

“If you kick up enough sand, and you’re around enough people, the stingrays are going to get away from you,” said Pono Barnes, a spokesperson for the ocean lifeguard division of the L.A. County Fire Department. “They’re not going to wait until you get a foot away to swim away. If you’re shuffling around, and relatively in the same spot while you’re enjoying the water, the stingrays are going to clear out and move down the beach where it’s calm.”

Barnes said you don’t have to constantly shuffle your feet, but if you’re the only person out on a sand bar, it’s good to shuffle as you move around. Another option: swim.

Barnes has never been stung and attributes that to swimming to travel through the ocean. “They’re going to stay on the bottom. They’re not going to come up to sting you,” he said.

4. If stung, don’t pee on it

“I would not recommend that, that would not alleviate your pain,” Barnes said.

Given the myth around peeing on a jellyfish’s sting to alleviate pain, I had to ask. Not only does urine not help remove venom from a ray’s barb, it also should not be used to treat a jellyfish sting. Truly, the more you know!

5. Seek actual medical aid

Generally, being stung by a small round ray will feel like you’ve stepped on a piece of glass. That sensation will go away momentarily, only to be replaced by a throbbing pain that will vary in intensity depending on how much venom you received from the ray’s barb.

“I’ve seen linebacker-sized guys that are completely inconsolable, can’t talk because they’re writhing in pain, and then I’ve seen little kids that are totally fine that got stung,” Barnes said. “It really depends on how much venom gets delivered at the time you got stung.”

You should head, hopefully pee-free, to the nearest lifeguard stand.

The lifeguards will assess your injury, make sure the barb isn’t still in your foot and then wash the wound out.

Then, they will place your foot inside a Mylar-type bag where they’ll add the hottest water you can stand to kill the venom.

“What that hot water does is, it essentially cooks off that venom and the protein in the venom, and once that breaks down, the pain goes away,” Barnes said.

(Fun fact: Every morning, lifeguards collect scalding hot water and keep it in insulated containers in case a beachgoer suffers a sting. They’re always prepared for this to happen!)

It can take a few hours for the pain to subside.

“It’ll feel like you’re getting better and that you can take your foot out of the water, and then as soon as you take your foot out of that hot water, you’ll feel that pain start to come back,” Barnes said. “Typically, it’s the end of your beach day.”

The lifeguards will take you to the end of the beach, where your driver will take you home. Lifeguards can even help your driver plan the route home to include the nearest coffee shop or convenience store where you could get a refill on hot water, depending on how far you’re going.

Most people don’t have any other issues once the venom is cooked off. Those who do develop an infection should go to an urgent care and inform the physician they were stung by a stingray, as there are specific antibiotics more effective for marine-related injuries.

I hope you don’t have to ever use this advice. If you do, may your pain be minimal and aid be rendered swiftly!

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

People standing and bending over cleaning up a field.

Volunteers work to restore habitat at a Friends of the L.A. River event.

(Friends of the L.A. River)

1. Clean up habitat down by the L.A. River
Volunteers are needed from 8 to 11 a.m. Saturday at the Sepulveda Basin Wildlife Reserve for Friends of the L.A. River’s habitat restoration day and Earth Month celebration, postponed because of rain last month. Participants will restore native habitat in the reserve, yanking invasive plants and making seed balls. Local organizations, including the California Native Plant Society and San Fernando Valley Audubon Society, will teach volunteers about local flora and fauna. Learn more and register at folar.org.

2. Glean native plant knowledge in Glendale
Officials from Glendale’s Office of Sustainability will lead a 2.8-mile hike at 10 a.m. Saturday through the Catalina Verdugo Trail, where they will teach hikers about native plants such as laurel sumac, sycamores and sages along the path. This lightly moderate path meanders around the Glendale Sports Complex in the San Rafael Hills. It is lush, and as such, long shirts and pants are recommended. Guests should also bring water and sun protection. Register at laworks.com.

3. Meet new plants at the L.A. River
Herb Club L.A. will host a walk at 5 p.m. Sunday around the L.A. River, where guides will teach guests about native plants and their medicinal, ecological and cultural significance. Afterward, guests will be invited to imbibe kefir water while sketching plants and adding to their field guides. Art supplies will be provided, but guests are welcome to bring existing pieces to work on. Tickets range from $23.18 to $33.85, with participants encouraged to pay what they can. Register at eventbrite.com.

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The must-read

An illustration of a hiker enjoying the mountainous view.

(Marie Doazan / For The Times)

The Sierras offer ample opportunity to backpack to alpine lakes and high peaks, where you’ll have much of the trail to yourself. But it isn’t always doable to drive a few hours north for a backpacking trip. That’s why I put together this helpful guide on how to backpack in our own backyard! There are around 20 backpacking sites around L.A. County, and I chose the best ones to check out this summer. Everything on my list is open. The roads to reach them are paved, and the trails to reach each site are generally well-maintained. I am looking forward to revisiting several spots on my list, including Valley Forge, where the stars will be bright, and the frogs hopefully loud.

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

Good news! This past weekend, a volunteer at Project Monarch L.A. spotted the first butterfly chrysalis that the group has seen in its three years of restoring habitat for the at-risk winged wonder. Since 2023, the project’s volunteers have spent hundreds of hours planting milkweed and native pollinating plants and taken other steps to help Los Angeles State Historic Park near Chinatown be a place where monarchs can reproduce and thrive. In the coming days, the little green chrysalis will hopefully transform into an orange-and-black beauty!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Why you should visit California’s largest city park right now

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The trail is short but steep, and it smells of sage. A few hundred feet below, I see moms with strollers on a path beside the San Diego River. Above, I see granite cliffs and hear the hollers of unseen climbers.

“Rope!” says one.

“Hey,” says another. “There’s a ram’s horn down here!”

A climber tosses rope near Kwaay Paay Peak.

A climber tosses rope near Kwaay Paay Peak.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

This is the Climbers Loop Trail at Kwaay Paay Peak, one of my new favorite spots in the biggest city park that you’ve never heard of: Mission Trails Regional Park in San Diego.

No, this park is not downtown like its more famous sibling, Balboa Park. But Mission Trails, eight miles northeast of downtown and 15 miles from the beach, is the biggest city-owned park in California. Along with the trickling river and a dam that dates to the early Spanish missionary days, the landscape includes 65 miles of trails on more than 8,000 acres of rugged mountains, hills and valleys.

It looks like a healthy slice of Arizona, and it covers more territory than Balboa Park, L.A.’s Griffith Park, San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and Irvine’s Great Park combined.

Also, it used to be my backyard. Throughout my teen years, my family lived on a cul-de-sac at the base of Cowles Mountain, the highest summit in the park and the city. The chaparral began 40 feet from my back door.

Almost as often as we loitered at the mall and ogled the guitars at American Dream Music, my friends and I wandered the mountain slopes, wading through the sagebrush and nosing around the granite boulders, sidestepping coyote scat, and generally walking that fine line between high jinks and delinquency.

Officially, the park was younger than we were, having been established in 1974. But it contained such deep and obvious history, even the teenage me could appreciate it.

For millennia before the Spanish showed up and built a dam to serve their first Alta California mission, the Kumeyaay lived in these hills.

The Old Mission Dam dates to the early Spanish missionary days.

The Old Mission Dam dates to the early Spanish missionary days.

During World War I, the Army used the area, known as Camp Elliott, for tank and artillery training. During World War II, the Marines did the same, leaving plenty of ordnance behind — including some that exploded in 1983, killing two boys. (Even now, after various cleanup efforts, signs warn that unexploded shells “might still exist.” If you see something suspicious, report it and don’t touch it.)

Once military officials decided they didn’t need the land, local leaders stepped in and began putting together a park in the 1960s and ‘70s. The city added Cowles Mountain in 1974. The visitor center followed in 1995. The Cedar fire of 2003 burned about 2,800 acres, which have long since regrown.

The visitor center at Mission Trails Regional Park, San Diego.

The park’s visitor center includes educational exhibits and a gift shop.

I had a great time brushing up on that history and wandering Mission Trails for two days this spring — my longest spell in those hills since high school. Overnight I slept in a cabin at Santee Lakes Recreation Preserve, about two miles east of the park, where several recycled-water lakes are surrounded by well-kept fishing spots, walking paths, playgrounds and a campground.

Also, I have to note that I was in Mission Trails for more than three hours before I saw any graffiti. I’m not sure that’s doable in Griffith Park.

The Santee Lakes Recreation Preserve, which includes cabins, is two miles from San Diego's Mission Trails Regional Park.

The Santee Lakes Recreation Preserve, which includes cabins, is two miles from San Diego’s Mission Trails Regional Park.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

It’s unlikely many people outside San Diego County know this place exists. But local hikers and birders turn out in force. Climbers like Kwaay Paay Peak (elevation: 1,194 feet) and mountain bikers, equestrians and anglers have their own favorite park territories. You can camp at Santee Lakes or, on weekends, put up a tent in the park’s Kumeyaay Lake campground.

Kumeyaay Lake.

Kumeyaay Lake.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

Mission Trails has the highest peak in the city (Cowles Mountain at 1,591 feet). It has the compact Kumeyaay Lake and the larger Murray Reservoir (a.k.a. Lake Murray), which has fishing, kayaking and canoeing about three miles south of the park visitor center.

But many would say the park’s Main Street is Father Junipero Serra Trail, a paved path that runs alongside the San Diego River, mountains rising on either side.

Father Junipero Serra Trail runs alongside a stretch of the San Diego River.

Father Junipero Serra Trail runs alongside a stretch of the San Diego River.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

The long, flat Father Junipero Serra Trail is a great, easy hike for beginners.

The long, flat Father Junipero Serra Trail is a great, easy hike for beginners.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

“I just started coming in the last few weeks,” hiker Sumeya Sayd, 23, told me one day as she stepped off the Serra Trail. Like me, she had hiked Cowles Mountain as a youth and overlooked the rest of the park.

Now, inspired by a Muslim American Society group chat, Sayd has been hiking the Serra and Climbers Loop trails more often and thinking about the Mission Trails five-peak challenge — five peaks in the park, each over 1,000 feet.

You can walk or pedal on the Serra Trail, which stretches 2.6 miles and connects the park visitor center to the Old Mission Dam. (Ordinarily, there’s a lane open to vehicular traffic, but because of a sewage-line improvement project, cars will be banned until summer of 2028.)

A dog-walker pauses at Old Mission Dam in Mission Trails Regional Park, San Diego.

“This is Desert Wishbone-bush,” I overheard Justin Daniel saying one day along the trail. Daniel, who held aloft a purple flower, was leading a group of about 15 people from the California Native Plant Society.

Soon the group moved on to the California Buckwheat and Daniel added that “we have the most native plants in California for one county,” along with “more native bees than you can shake a stick at.”

How urban is this urban park? Not very. No museums, no zoos, no restaurants. Still, its busiest trail gets an estimated 780,000 hikers a year. That’s the route to the top of Cowles Mountain from Navajo Road and Golfcrest Drive.

When I lived in the neighborhood, many people still called Cowles Mountain “S Mountain,” because just about every fall from the 1930s into the 1970s, San Diego State freshmen used lye and white paint to make a big S near the top, 400 feet high and visible for miles.

Now the S is long gone, but through the years I’ve seen foot traffic grow. I’ve hiked it solo, with my daughter and with a friend facing a profound loss. Even though the route to the top from the Golfcrest trailhead is just 1.5 miles, every time it’s a bit more challenging than I expect — 950 feet of elevation gain, irregular steps, crumbling rocks. In the old days, I used to get up and down in 90 minutes. Nowadays, my knees complain and the round trip takes two hours.

Fortunately, the view from the top still hits me like a surprise every time: the hills of Mexico to the south, the coastline to the west, the miles of undeveloped slopes and valleys to the north. In a perfect hiker’s world, maybe there would be no line of utility towers slicing through the Fortuna Mountain portion of Mission Trails and no humming radio towers atop Cowles Mountain. But this is a city park after all. In this vast expanse of nature, that’s easy to forget.

Cowles Mountain is the highest peak in the park.

Cowles Mountain is the highest peak in the park.

Where to hike

Mission Trails Regional Park has nearly 65 miles of trails. Here are some to try.

  • If you’re looking for an easy hike and you’re a newbie, start with the long, flat 2.6-mile Father Junipero Serra Trail. Two other easy routes, well suited to kids, are the Kumeyaay Lake Nature Trail (1 mile around the lake; full of birdsong in the mornings) and the 1.5-mile Visitor Center Loop Trail.
  • For a longer, mostly flat hike with ample shade, try the park’s Oak Canyon Trail, where a little seasonal waterfall materializes among the rock formations near the far end of the 3.4-mile out-and-back route. That trail has only 240 feet of elevation gain; park rangers call it a “moderate” challenge.
  • It’s 1.5 miles to the top of Cowles Mountain from the trailhead at Golfcrest Drive and Navajo Road. If you start instead at Big Rock Park in Santee, it’s a 2.5-mile climb to the top. Rangers classify both routes as difficult.
  • For a stiffer challenge, you can try climbing to the South Fortuna or North Fortuna peaks. (Distances vary, depending on route). Also, there’s the brief, steep Climbers Loop Trail (rated difficult, with 400 feet of altitude gain in a 1-mile round trip).

Down the road, there may be new challenges, because the park is still growing. In the last year, Mission Trails Regional Park Foundation executive director Jennifer Morrissey said, the park has added more than 100 acres through a pair of acquisitions at its northern edges. Eventually the park may also add a safe river-crossing near the visitor center — a possibility rooted in tragedy. In early 2021, 21-year-old trailrunner Max LeNail died in a sudden storm while trying to cross the San Diego River near the visitor center. His family is hoping to build a footbridge in his memory, but for now, the nearest crossing is several miles away.

The Santee Lakes Recreation Preserve includes 10 cabins.

The Santee Lakes Recreation Preserve includes 10 cabins.

Where to stay

  • The Kumeyaay Lake Campground (2 Junipero Serra Trail, San Diego; [619] 668-2748) is part of Mission Trails Regional Park. It includes 46 dry/primitive campsites, open Friday and Saturday nightly only. No RV hookups. Rates begin at $26 nightly.
  • Santee Lakes Recreation Preserve (9310 Fanita Parkway, Santee; [619] 596-3141) includes 290 RV spots, about 12 tent-camping sites and 10 cabins. The RV and tent camping spots rent for $62-$111 nightly. Cabins go for $137-$265. There’s plenty of fishing and boating, but no swimming in the recycled water of the lakes. The preserve has a space set aside for a lakefront restaurant with ample deck, but two concessionaires have closed there since 2021 and 2024. Preserve management has said another restaurant will open soon.
The view from atop Cowles Mountain at Mission Trails Regional Park, San Diego.

The view from atop Cowles Mountain at Mission Trails Regional Park, San Diego.

(Christopher Reynolds / Los Angeles Times)

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A coastal L.A. hike with views, wildflowers and a path to the beach

Whenever friends or family visiting L.A. ask to go spend a day swimming in the ocean, I always take them to Leo Carrillo State Beach.

Unlike Santa Monica or Venice beaches, Leo Carrillo is not crowded. Parking is usually easy. And it’s a great place to swim and explore, with its tide pools where you can spot a starfish and scramble on its huge rocks (I may have had a goofy photo shoot or two with my friends there).

But until recently, I did not know that the adjoining Leo Carrillo State Park was home to a magnificent series of hiking trails where, when connected, provide you with a seven-mile trek with striking ocean views, wildflowers and birdsong. The halfway point is a pond and wetlands area where you can spot waterfowl and, if you’re lucky, listen to frogs! This is now the hike I take friends on when they want to both hike and have a beach day. I recommend you do the same.

Along with striking views of the Pacific Ocean, the Nicholas Flat Trail includes great vantage points of local peaks.

Along with striking views of the Pacific Ocean, the Nicholas Flat Trail includes great vantage points of local peaks.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

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The hike that I took through Leo Carrillo State Park — which I would gauge as mostly moderate with a few short but hard stretches — connects a few different trails, and I will explain how you can even just do portions of it and still have a great time before heading over to the beach.

To begin, you’ll park at Leo Carrillo State Park. An all-day pass is $12, payable to the ranger at the gate or via the machine in the parking lot. Once parked, you’ll head northeast to the trailhead. You’ll quickly come to a crossroads. Take the Willow Creek Trail east to officially start your hike.

A western fence lizard perches on a hillside.

A western fence lizard perches on a hillside.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You’ll gain about 575 feet in a mile as you traverse the Willow Creek Trail. I took breaks along the way to gaze at the ocean, watching surfers bobbing on their boards and a kite surfer trying to gain traction. I spotted coast paintbrush and California brittlebush, a flowering shrub that features yellow daisy-like flowers, on the path, along with several lizards.

A mile in, you’ll come to a junction in the trail where you have three-ish options. You can continue west to a branch of the Nicholas Flat Trail that will take you a mile back down to the parking lot. You can head south onto ocean vista lookout point (which, though steep, I highly recommend). Or you can turn north onto another branch of the Nicholas Flat Trail.

Leo Carrillo State Beach is easy to spot from high points along the Nicholas Flat Trail.

Leo Carrillo State Beach is easy to spot from high points along the Nicholas Flat Trail.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I did a combination, hiking 235 feet up the lookout path, where I had one of those “Wow, I get to live here” moments. The ocean was varying shades of blue, from turquoise to cerulean to cobalt. I could clearly see in all directions, including about eight miles to the east to Point Dume. I was, once again, amazed to be alone in a beautiful place in a county of 10 million people.

Once I finished at this awe-inspiring point, I headed north onto the Nicholas Flat Trail, taking it about 2.3 miles — and about 1,100 feet up 🥵 — through laurel sumac and other coast sage scrub vegetation into the Nicholas Flat Natural Preserve. Along the way, I observed loads of deerweed covered in its orange and yellow flowers along with scarlet bugler (which I spotted hummingbirds feeding on during my way back), Coulter’s lupine and small patches of California poppies.

California poppies growing amid invasive weeds, Coulter's lupine and Longleaf bush lupine in Leo Carrillo State Park.

California poppies growing amid invasive weeds, Coulter’s lupine and Longleaf bush lupine in Leo Carrillo State Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

If you need to catch your breath but don’t want to share that fact with your friends, just yell “Look at that view!” which is relevant for the hardest parts of the first stretch of this path, as the ocean grows only more beautiful and expansive as you climb.

About 2.5 miles in, you will see a path on your right that heads south. I’d skip this. It is a lookout point, but is washed out and looked sketchy to me. Instead, continue east-ish for another mile, and you’ll reach the charming little Nicholas Pond.

This is a great spot to sit, have a snack and observe the waterfowl and other birds, like red-winged blackbirds, song sparrows and lesser goldfinches (which are only lesser in their names). As I sat there eating my Trader Joe’s veggie sushi, I imagined decades ago when cattle probably drank from the pond, given a portion of the preserve resembles pasture and not native coastal sage scrub, and thus appears to have been used for ranching.

The Nicholas Pond in Nicholas Flat Natural Preserve near western Malibu.

The Nicholas Pond in Nicholas Flat Natural Preserve near western Malibu.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

I continued north and then west on the Nicholas Flat Trail through the preserve. You could also turn around at the pond and head back the way you came.

The walk through the preserve featured views of the pasture and some shade from large oak trees, but it didn’t delight me the same as the rest of the hike. Additionally, just before finishing this leg of my hike, I noticed a steep, washed out hill and thought, “Please don’t let that be the trail.” Dear Wilder, it was. There was a nice view once I cursed my way up, but I give you permission to, again, just turn around at the pond.

The Nicholas Flat Trail is steep in spots but worth it for the views.

The Nicholas Flat Trail is steep in spots but worth it for the views.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

At six miles in, or when you have only a mile left, you’ll return to the junction with the ocean vista lookout point. Instead of taking the Willow Creek Trail back the way I came, I took a right (northwest-ish) onto the last bit of the Nicholas Flat Trail. This trail also offered tremendous views and had patches covered in brittlebush with its yellow blooms.

I hiked this trail on a Thursday and did not see another human for the first six miles. It was just me, the western fence lizards, California quail and one very shy skinny silver striped snake who, upon hearing my footsteps, bolted into the bushes.

If you start this hike early enough in the day, you can simply trek back to your car and change into your swimsuit for an afternoon at the beach. And if the tide is out, you might also be able to walk around the tide pools. In the same day, you can hang out with both lizards and starfish, and when lucky, even spy an endangered bumblebee on the trail and an octopus on the beach. Please, go have yourself a remarkable Southern California day!

As the sun sets, golden light blankets the hillsides in Leo Carrillo State Park.

As the sun sets, golden light blankets the hillsides in Leo Carrillo State Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

A wiggly line break

3 things to do

Cyclists ride along the route of CicLAmini—Wilmington, hosted in 2024.

1. Pedal your heart out in Pico Union
CicLAvia will host its 60th open streets event, CicLAmini—Pico Union, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday in Pico Union along Pico Boulevard between Normandie and Union Avenues. Guests are invited to travel the 1.4-mile pop-up park through their favorite people-powered mode of transport, whether that’s walking, jogging, biking, skating or shimmying. The route will feature booths from nonprofit organizations and photo opportunities and food. CicLAvia, a nonprofit whose events are always free, invites participants to show up anywhere along the route during the event to take the time to explore one of L.A.’s most historic neighborhoods. Learn more at ciclavia.org.

2. Observe waterfowl and more in Castaic
An instructor-led bird walk and talk will be hosted from 8 to 10 a.m. Sunday at Castaic Lake. Guests should bring binoculars, sun protection and water, and wear comfy shoes for this relaxing stroll along paved pathways, sand and grass. Participants should meet at parking lot No. 4 and check in at the office. Register for free to this L.A. County site.

3. Fly a kite at Los Angeles State Historic Park
Clockshop, an L.A. arts and culture nonprofit, will host its fifth Community & Unity People’s Kite Festival from 2 to 6 p.m. Saturday at Los Angeles State Historic Park. This free event will feature free arts workshops, live music and booths from local community organizations. There will be a kite competition where contestants will fly their handmade kite, to be judged by kite masters. A $5 donation to Clockshop is requested but not required. Register at clockshop.org.

A wiggly line break

The must-read

A western fence lizard, also known as a blue belly.

A western fence lizard, also known as a blue belly.

(James Maughn)

Anyone who has hiked for three minutes in L.A. has spotted a western fence lizard. They’re seemingly everywhere, scampering up a hillside, along the trail or on a rock. Turns out, Californians love documenting these little guys. Sean Greene, an assistant data and graphics editor at The Times, analyzed data from the citizen science app iNaturalist and found more than 130,000 verified identifications of the fence lizard in California. That’s way more than the number of poppies observed (almost 47,000) and red-tailed hawk (almost 76,500), two common and beloved things found in Southern California. “Outside California, iNaturalist users focus on other things,” Sean wrote. “Oregonians enjoy snapping pictures of ponderosa pines. In Washington, it’s mallards — the most commonly observed species worldwide. Nevadans have a thing for creosote bushes.” Biologist Giovanni Rapacciuolo told Sean that the fence lizard’s population on iNaturalist almost certainly comes down to “what human beings think is cool.” Like a large sunbathing lizard. As an added bonus, the piece features a video of a lizard doing push-ups, one of my favorite natural phenomenons to observe while hiking. So swole!

Happy adventuring,

Jaclyn Cosgrove's signature

P.S.

As we head into summer, the kind folks at Anza-Borrego Desert State Park remind us to check the ground temperature when hiking with pets. I often bring my dog, Maggie May, with me on trails. In the summer, I take the back of my hand and leave it on the ground for five seconds. If it’s too hot for me, it’s too hot for Maggie. If so, we just go find a swimming hole in the shade that we can both enjoy!

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.



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Get away from it all with a serene backpacking trip near L.A.

When vacationing in Los Angeles, you can truly choose your own adventure.

Those in search of luxury can stay in a five-star hotel, sleeping on a plush bed, soaking in a deep bath tub and lounging on a balcony with sweeping mountain views. But, among the mountains that surround L.A., a different kind of luxury is within reach. There you can sleep above the clouds, swim in deep river pools and watch the sun set over the same mountains seen from those nearby hotel balconies. And often, it’s free.

L.A.’s proximity to public lands offers the unique opportunity to slip away for a weekend backpacking trip with ease. In the same day, you could savor breakfast tacos in Grand Central Market and fall asleep under the stars at your campsite. In fact, in under an hour’s drive, you can start a hike to one of around 20 backpacking sites in Angeles National Forest or the Santa Monica Mountains.

But it can be hard to know where to start. Backpacking, unlike camping, requires you to be entirely self-reliant. If you forget your toothbrush, there’s no 7-Eleven or camp store nearby to save you. It also means leaving behind certain luxuries, like a campground host to sell you firewood or the ability to pack every possible Trader Joe’s snack in your car. Everything you need must fit in your pack.

Not to worry, I’ve put together a comprehensive guide to becoming a competent — perhaps even expert — backpacker. It includes both a list of how to plan ahead to ensure you’re safe and ready, a curated list of backpacking sites near L.A. organized by the difficulty of the hike to reach them and how much “roughing it” each site requires.

I chose these spots, in part, because you don’t have to drive too far, they’re all first come, first served, the roads to reach them are paved and trails to reach each site are generally well-maintained. They’re also delightful hikes on their own, featuring wildflowers, native trees and loads of local birds and other critters. Each spot is isolated enough to make you feel like you’re outside the city without being so devoid of human life that it feels like you’re auditioning for the next season of “Naked and Afraid.”

Before diving in, though, let’s go over how to set yourself up for success when seeking sanctuary in our local mountains.

What to bring | Getting there | Beginner backpacking campsites| Intermediate backpacking campsites | Advanced backpacking campsites

What to bring

Unlike car camping, where you can pack every sweater, blanket and spoon you could imagine needing into your trunk, backpacking requires you to be selective. That is, unless you plan to carry 100 pounds of gear through the forest. What you will need to be self-sufficient will vary, and there are many great lists to guide you in what gear to bring, but I’ll run through the absolute necessities.

First, plan to bring enough calories to get you through your stay in the woods. It is generally recommended to pack between 1.5 to 2.5 pounds of food (2,500 to 4,500 calories) per day. (There’s a handy calculator here to determine your body weight, level of activity and amount of calories you’ll need.)

For the majority of the sites listed below, you will either need to bring your water or treat your water, for which there are several options. When it comes to the amount of water to bring, it will depend on the weather, your body’s preferences and the difficulty of the hike you’re taking to reach your campground. Some suggest one liter of water for every two hours you’ll hike, while others say it’s one liter of water for every five miles you’re traveling.

Campfires are not allowed on federal land in the Santa Monica Mountains. In Angeles National Forest, the fire danger level dictates when and what types of fire and fuel sources are allowed. As of this spring, the risk is “very high,” down from “extreme,” which means burning campfires in established fire pits and using most backpacking stoves is allowed. Before heading out, make sure you register for a California campfire permit, print it and have it on your person. It is required, regardless of wildfire risk.

Lastly, assume you won’t have cell service in Angeles National Forest or the Santa Monica Mountains, where the below campgrounds are located. You should fill out this form and share it with a friend, spouse or family member to ensure someone knows where you’re going. Also be sure to leave a copy on your vehicle’s window in case a rescue team needs to look for you. It’s important that you know where the closest fire or law enforcement station is to your campground — Angeles National Forest has a handful.

You should consider bringing a satellite communicator. Some newer model iPhones and Android devices can connect to satellites to send text messages. It’s best to test this while on a hike before planning to use it on a backpacking trip.

Getting there

Before heading out, check the weather and for road closures. Download your driving and hiking routes on your navigation apps. For example, Google Maps allows you to download a section of a map to use offline.

You should also bring a paper map. You can buy one at an outdoors outfitter or print one from a mapping site like CalTopo. I’ve downloaded a map from CalTopo and then printed it on waterproof paper at a FedEx office store. Having a physical map of the area will also allow you to see and navigate nearby trails, should you want to explore beyond your campsite.

An illustration of a hiker and their dog making their way up a hill.

(Marie Doazan for The Times)

For the seasoned car camper who’s backpacking-curious (beginner)

At each of these beginner-level backpacking sites, you will generally find water, either from a nearby stream or, in one spot, piped in. Their campsites feature picnic tables and have restrooms (including, in one case, flushing toilets!). The hikes to reach these two trail camps are short and, as a bonus, quite pleasant. You’ll likely spot wildflowers, including lupines and goldenrod, and you’ll be near trails to explore more, should you choose to venture out of your haven in the woods.

Cooper Canyon Trail Camp

The Cooper Canyon Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest.

The Cooper Canyon Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The Cooper Canyon Trail Camp is a backcountry group campground shaded by towering old pine trees. It has five sites and features vault toilets, campfire rings, klamath stoves and large picnic tables. And unlike most of the spots on this list, bear-proof boxes are available to store food and scented items.

There is no piped water. Campers can pack in water, or filter water from the seasonal stream that flows next to the campground. Just over a mile east of the campground, this stream meets up with Little Rock Creek, which flows about 17 miles from the San Gabriel Mountains to the Mojave Desert. Cold plunges are optional but highly encouraged.

The trail camp can be reached three main ways:

  • Starting at the Cloudburst Summit trailhead, taking the Pacific Crest Trail mostly downhill 2.5 miles northeast to the trail camp.
  • Starting at the Cloudburst Summit trailhead, taking the fire road 1.5 miles down to the trail camp.
  • Starting at the Burkhart trailhead from the day use parking lot on the eastern end of the Buckhorn Campground. You will hike 1.5 miles north on a downhill path and then turn west onto the Pacific Crest Trail (also a part of the Silver Moccasin Trail). You will travel one mile uphill, gaining about 540 feet in elevation, before reaching the trail camp. (This is the most challenging of the three routes.)

Because it sits along the Pacific Crest Trail, the campground is also used by thru-hikers, including those taking the entire trail from Mexico to Canada. Perhaps you’ll make a new friend!

While at the campground, you could take a side trip to Cooper Canyon falls, or continue exploring the Pacific Crest Trail. Or, simply hang up a hammock and sway to the sound of the stream, songbirds and the gentle swoosh of the wind through the trees. Cooper Canyon has long been a beloved place to spend nights outdoors.

“If there is a moon, the nights are like a sparkling fairyland, and if no moon, one may see a million stars which those in the cities never know,” outdoorsman Will Thrall wrote of the area in 1936 in his Times column, “Your Hike Today.”

L.A. and its surrounding area have substantially more light pollution almost 90 years later, but the skies above Cooper Canyon Trail Camp will still delight any overnight visitor.

Musch Trail Camp

Musch Trail Camp is a small but charming campground in Topanga State Park that recently reopened after being spared by the Palisades fire.

The 82-acre Trippet Ranch, as it is known today, was originally called “Rancho Las Lomas Celestiales” by its owner Cora Larimore Trippet, a founding member of the Hollywood Bowl and once a national officer in the Woman’s Christian Temperance Union, according to her obituary and the Valley Relics Museum. She was married to judge Oscar A. Trippet.

The Musch Trail Camp is a small but charming site in Topanga State Park.

The Musch Trail Camp is a small but charming site in Topanga State Park.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The property’s name translates to “Ranch of Heavenly Hills,” which still rings true today. You’ll hike the moderate Musch Trail from the Trippet Ranch parking lot of Topanga State Park, feasting your eyes on those aforementioned hills. In spring, the area will be dotted with wild blooms of sticky monkey flower, canyon sunflower and golden yarrow.

Unlike every other site on this list, Musch Trail Camp has flush toilets, sinks and potable water. What a luxury! The only caveat is, per a park staffer I spoke with, maintenance staff turns the water on when they know campers are coming. Before heading out, please call the Angeles District of California State Parks at (818) 880-0363 to ask them to have the water turned on.

On top of having potable water, it’s only a mile hike to reach this site. You’ll park in the Trippet Ranch lot in Topanga State Park and pay the parking fee ($10 per night). The trailhead is in the northeast corner of the lot near the small pond. Enjoy the lush flora along the way. Upon arrival, drop your camping fee ($7 per night) in the iron ranger.

While at the campground, I felt a bit like Snow White as I sat quietly observing quail, hummingbirds and moles, and heard something crunching on a leafy meal (probably a deer). Though this little nook in Topanga State Park is likely safe from evil queens.

An illustration of a hiker crossing a river over a broken log.

(Marie Doazan for The Times)

Our intermediate sites are a bit farther to reach than the beginner options, and in one case, requires you to bring your own water. They both have picnic tables and tall shade trees where you can rest with a book or journal. They also both have vault toilets and, when I visited, were even stocked with toilet paper. Both allowed me alone time with nature that’s rare to find on L.A.’s more heavily trafficked urban trails. The surrounding hillsides and old trees were excellent company in themselves, and made me feel at peace. I hope you find a similar serenity on your travels!

Valley Forge Trail Camp

The Valley Forge Trail Camp is a refreshing refuge of mighty pines next to the pristine West Fork of the San Gabriel River. It has six group campsites with picnic tables and campfire rings, and has four well-maintained vault toilets. At night, it offers clear views of the starry sky.

One of a handful of sites at the Valley Forge Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest.

One of a handful of sites at the Valley Forge Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

It has all those things. But it does not have piped water. Campers will need to either bring their own or treat the water in the river (when flowing).

To reach the campground, you have the choice of two routes:

  • Parking at the Red Box Picnic Area and taking the Gabrielino National Recreation Trail about 2.4 miles down. This moderate hike follows the West Fork of the San Gabriel River and features large oak trees and other gorgeous native foliage.
  • Parking at Red Box Picnic Area and taking the Rincon Red Box Road, a fire road, about 3.2 miles down. On the way back, you’ll gain about 1,200 feet in elevation.
  • And as a bonus, because both routes start near the Red Box Picnic Area, you can take one up and one down if you’d like a change of scenery on the way back.

The campsite’s name is a reference to the Valley Forge Lodge, which operated in the area in the early 1900s. It was advertised as “the camp with real old Western hospitality” and featured dinner dances, badminton and trout fishing. Its guest list included celebrities like actor Lon Chaney, “the man of a thousand faces,” who in the summer of 1927 was among those lucky enough to catch trout.

The sunset from the trail to reach the Valley Forge Trail Camp.

The sunset from the trail to reach the Valley Forge Trail Camp.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Even though the lodge is gone, its description in a 1937 advertisement holds true: “Cool and delightfully wooden location” with bubbling streams. These days the trout are few, but you’ll fall asleep listening to the nearby frogs and toads serenading the night from their river homes.

Sulphur Springs Trail Camp

Sulphur Springs Trail Camp sits at 5,300 feet in Angeles National Forest and features about six tent-camping sites. Just off the Pacific Crest Trail, its campsites are shaded by tall pine trees, ideal for hanging a hammock. It has vault toilets but no potable water or bear boxes.

Although the South Fork of Little Rock Creek runs through the campground, the water was, to use a scientific term, kind of gross. Portions of the creek appeared clear, but other parts were full of algae and made me question whether even filtering would make the water safe to drink.

There’s a faucet on the eastern end of the campground where water from the creek is piped, but upon my arrival, the trough where the water came out was covered in thick green algae. A sign next to it reads “Water not tested, Boil for 5 minutes before use.” Although there might be water available in late winter and early spring, I would not expect there to be much come summer. And even then, I will still plan to bring my own water.

The Sulphur Springs Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest.

The sites at Sulphur Springs Trail Camp in Angeles National Forest feature picnic tables and fire pits, along with tall pine and other native trees.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

To reach the campground, you’ll park at Three Points and cross the street to access the trailhead. There was a large tree blocking my view of the trailhead when I visited in early April, but upon squinting at my map, I found it. I hope it’s cleared when you go!

Sulphur Springs Trail Camp

You’ll take the Pacific Crest Trail about 3.6 miles to reach the trail camp. There are several boulders in the first mile of the hike, including one area where you can scramble about just under half a mile in. Be mindful of rattlesnakes, as it looks like the perfect spot for them to nap.

The trail seems to transverse through an ecotone, a transitional zone between plant communities, switching between high desert and pine forest ecosystems. You’ll pass through patches of manzanita and yucca and then forested parts with Coulter pines, all the while with a view of the valley below.

When I left the trail camp late in the day, the golden sun blanketed the tree-lined mountainsides. I was reminded of just how many shades of green can be seen when one takes time to explore — to escape — into the forest. It was a five-star experience.

An illustration of two women sitting at a campsite at night.

(Marie Doazan for The Times)

For those seeking self-sufficiency — and a break from noisy neighbors (advanced)

The campsites below are the farthest hikes on the list, but both of the hikes to reach them are spectacular. One provides tremendous ocean views while the other is a stunning paved path through the dense forest. As a bonus, you can bike to the second site if bikepacking is something you’re into.

The only amenity both offer is a picnic table. One site does have a single vault toilet.

That said, these two sites are a true escape, and you’ll likely see wildlife like mule deer and hear the howls of coyotes.

La Jolla Walk-In Campsite

The La Jolla Walk-In Campsite is a small campground in dense chaparral in Point Mugu State Park in the Santa Monica Mountains. It has three small sites featuring a picnic table with a metal box attached for food and scented items. There is a seasonal stream, but it’s often dry. Campers should plan to pack water in. There are no fires allowed and unfortunately dogs are not invited to join. It costs just $10 per night, a fee campers prepay at the La Jolla/Ray Miller parking area.

The campground is half a mile off the Backbone Trail in the Santa Monica Mountains, offering an overnight option for those wanting to tackle more of the iconic trail than can be accomplished in a day.

You can reach the campground by parking at the lot off Highway 1. Although it’s possible to leave your car outside the park for a day hike, parking isn’t allowed on the shoulder daily from 10 p.m. to 5 a.m.

The campsites at La Jolla Walk-In Campsite are rustic but provide privacy and clear views of the night sky.

The campsites at La Jolla Walk-In Campsite are rustic but provide privacy and clear views of the night sky.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

You’ll start at the Ray Miller Trailhead, named after California State Park’s first official campground host, and take the route, also known as the Backbone Trail, about 4.6 miles before turning west onto the La Jolla Valley Fire Road, which will take you the half mile to the trail camp.

The scenery along the way is stunning and diverse. For the first 2.5 miles of the hike, you’ll be rewarded with better and better ocean views as you gain elevation, including two miles in when you can see a gorgeous stretch of coast line.

You will transition from the Ray Miller Trail to the Overlook Fire Road — all still the Backbone Trail — about 2.6 miles in. At this point, you’ll mostly lose the ocean view but be greeted by a diversity of local plants, including wildflowers like spreading phlox, and varieties of poppies, lupines and paintbrushes.

La Jolla Walk-In Campsite

This trail camp is also reachable by starting at the Chumash Trail, but given that trail’s steepness, this reporter isn’t advising that as an option for backpackers. (Even if it is a shorter route to reach the campground.)

Glenn Camp Campground

The Glenn Camp Campground is a 10-site forested haven next to the West Fork of the San Gabriel River. It is open year round and features picnic tables, grills and fire pits.

There is no piped water. Campers will need to either bring their own or filter water from the nearby river.

The Glenn Camp Campground in the San Gabriel Mountains in Angeles National Forest.

The Glenn Camp Campground in the San Gabriel Mountains in Angeles National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

The restrooms are, unfortunately, closed until further notice. You’ll need to relieve yourself ideally 200 feet from the river, especially when you have to — hey, let’s just say it! — poop. You’ll want to bring a trowel, and have a plan for toilet paper. (This how-to video is worth watching before heading out) The best practice is to pack it out. If you plan to use natural elements for wiping, make sure you know what poison ivy and other unfriendly plants look like. Not something you want to explain to the doctor at urgent care!

A deer stands on the bank of the West Fork of the San Gabriel River near the Glenn Camp Campground.

A deer stands on the bank of the West Fork of the San Gabriel River near the Glenn Camp Campground.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

This campground was previously open only on the weekends because of nearby construction, but that restriction has ended.

To reach the campground, you can either hike or bike the seven-mile West Fork National Scenic Bikeway. You will gain just over 500 feet in elevation as you travel along this mostly paved path that runs parallel to the West Fork of the San Gabriel River. After a good rain, waterfalls run down the hillsides next to the path. Yes, it is as heavenly as it sounds.

The campground sits next to the river and is shaded by old-growth trees, including at least one you could climb into and read a book. Yeah, that’s freedom!

Remember

In a world where our phones can quickly provide us with anything we’re willing to pay a delivery fee for, backpacking can offer a necessary reset for our over-reliance on technology. Stepping away into the L.A. mountains, you’ll be greeted with a sound bath from crickets and birds as the smell of pine, sage and bay laurel fills your nostrils. It is an opportunity to be present with yourself and those around you, and worry yourself only with questions of whether someone should throw another log on the fire. Deep bathtub be damned, that sense of presence is the greatest luxury of all.

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