‘If you take all these springs together in terms of flow, it’s by far the largest in Ireland, and one of the biggest systems in the world,” said Dr Benjamin Thébaudeau, geologist for the newly designated Unesco Joyce Country and Western Lakes Geopark in western Ireland.
Over a few days, I discovered that this massive system of limestone springs and caves is the engine that drives this landscape, in the same way as an underground train network powers a city. It’s a place where rivers disappear into limestone fissures and subterranean lakes, and where roads twist through drowned valleys beneath mountains shaped by fire and ice.
It’s also the dreamy, lush landscape of western Ireland that famously drew Hollywood to the village of Cong for The Quiet Man in 1952. Travelling through the geopark from the heart of County Galway into southern County Mayo, I based myself in Cong, which is effectively an inland island between Lough Mask and Lough Corrib. The village takes its name from the Irish for “narrows”, a reference to its tight, water-bound geography and the concentration of springs that rise and fall invisibly beneath the surface.
Water is everywhere and rarely still. It drains from Lough Mask through swallow holes before travelling unseen for miles through limestone fissures beneath Cong, eventually forcing its way back to the surface as cold springs around the village.
“If you look in the centre, you can see the current flowing in opposite directions,” Benjamin says, pointing beyond the interpretive boards towards the channels where he first noticed the phenomenon. “We call it the Hatchery because of its connection to wild fish, and the springs bubble up there, right in the middle.”
John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara in John Ford’s 1952 film The Quiet Man, filmed in County Mayo. Photograph: TCD/DB/Alamy
Yet I quickly realised that it is not only the geopark’s karst terrain and glacial valleys that give it such distinct character. At its core sits a living Gaeltacht where Irish is still spoken in daily life, embedded in place names, local conversation and nightly sessions at the third-generation Burke’s Bar (Tí Bhúrca) in nearby Clonbur. The language runs through the landscape as another ingrained system alongside rock, water and soil.
The Augustinian abbey at Cong was founded under Gaelic royal patronage, yet its surviving stone arches reflect the deep architectural imprint left by later Norman reconstruction. In the 12th century, Ruaidrí Ua Conchobair (anglicised to Rory O’Connor), the last high king of Ireland, spent his final 15 years within these walls following political collapse in Connacht, seeking a quiet sanctuary where the river meets the woods. Centuries later, the tides of power shifted brutally under Tudor administration. The abbey was suppressed, and Sir Richard Bingham, the notorious lord president of Connacht, turned Ashford Castle into a menacing administrative hub, temporarily pulling the region’s political gravity to Cong before authority drifted westward once more. The castle was bought in 1852 by the Guinness family with proceeds from the global flow of the black stuff. They transformed the medieval ruins into a grand Victorian hunting lodge, the luxury retreat we see today.
Like the landscape of the geopark itself, these stone landmarks remain, but they constantly change their form, mirroring the fluid cultural afterlife of Cong village. At The Quiet Man Museum, curator Lisa Collins spoke of the enduring pull of John Ford’s film. Honeymooning visitors still arrive dressed as Sean Thornton (played by John Wayne) and Mary Kate Danaher (Maureen O’Hara), she said, stepping into a version of Ireland that has long outlived the production and indeed the country itself. The museum has been designated a Treasure of European Film Culture by the European Film Academy, with plans to mark the 75th anniversary of the film in Cong next year.
The Quiet Man cottage museum; Cong, Co Mayo. Photograph: Image Source Limited/Alamy
Among the exhibits is the fishing rod used by the village priest during filming on the River Cong. Held for decades by the family of sound man Thomas A Carman before its donation to the museum, the prop brings one of the movie’s most famous comedic exchanges into the room. In that celebrated scene, Mary Kate speaks in the Irish language to Father Peter Lonergan as he casts for a legendary, elusive salmon. Standing by the water, she desperately explains that she has refused to consummate the marriage while her husband sleeps in a “mála codlata”, which translates as sleeping bag.
The language allows the exchange to move into a different register, beneath the radar of 1952 censorship, yet fully understood within the Gaeltacht where the film was shot. It functions as a form of cover, allowing meaning to sit just beneath the surface.
That subterranean world becomes tangible at the Pigeon Hole cave system just outside the village. The entrance drops steeply into the limestone through shiny, time-worn steps, leading into a narrow chasm. Below, a shallow underground river moves through darkness, untouched by sunlight.
It is here that the legend of the White Trout of Cong gathers around the water. The story tells of a young woman who vanished following the murder of her lover, only for a pure white trout to appear in the cave soon afterwards. It’s reminiscent of Father Lonergan’s mythical fish in The Quiet Man, and like everything here in Joyce Country and the Western Lakes, it’s part myth and part truth.
Benjamin notes that elements of the legend may not be entirely detached from observation. Fish living for generations in complete darkness can lose pigmentation over time, becoming pale or entirely white as a result of their environment. In that sense, the story does not sit apart from geology. Another truth is that fishing remains central here, both as practice and inheritance.
The ruined house and estate of MP and wine merchant George Henry Moore, who fed and saved his tenants from starvation during the great famine. Photograph: Eimantas Juskevicius/Alamy
Near Ashford Castle, a salmon hatchery attempts to support declining wild populations. The cold water that springs from the lakes should sustain fish stocks, but there are increasing environmental pressures.
“Maybe we are fighting a losing battle,” Benjamin said.
Climate change, warming seas and mounting pressure on river systems are all affecting wild Atlantic salmon. Trout remain more resilient, spending their lives within local waters such as Loughs Mask and Corrib rather than migrating out to sea.
Yet as the modern environment shifts, the landscape continues to hold older histories at different depths. Further inland at Carnacon, the ruins of the grand Moore Hall estate rise above Lough Carra from within encroaching woodland. One of the few Catholic-owned landed estates of its period, the house became associated with the great famine-era MP George Henry Moore and his colourful descendants, including the writer George Augustus Moore. Today, it sits partially collapsed since its destruction during the civil war, though the surrounding woods have absorbed rather than erased it. Paths thread through what was once a carefully controlled demesne, slipping into places where the estate’s geometry still survives beneath moss and root.
Not far away in Ballinrobe, another form of historical memory settles into language itself. It was here that Captain Charles Boycott, land agent for Lord Erne, became the focus of organised worker resistance during the land war in 1879. His name entered the global vocabulary as a verb, detached from its local origins yet still rooted in this terrain of contested land and memory. Moore Hall and Ballinrobe sit only a short distance apart, but together they reveal different expressions of the same pressures: ownership, resistance, inheritance, and the slow reshaping of meaning through time.
Further west, in Connemara, the landscape shifts dramatically once more as it reaches towards the Atlantic. At Killary Fjord, the land suddenly opens into deep water, a glacial incision dividing Connemara from Mayo. Here, the landscape’s buried secrets become visible. The fjord exposes geology directly, revealing the force with which ice once carved through the earth.
Lough Mask in County Mayo. Photograph: David Lyons/Alamy
To the south, Kylemore Abbey appears against the hillside above Pollacappul Lough. Built first as a private residence before later becoming a Benedictine monastery, it carries another layered story of adaptation and loss. Like Moore Hall, it reflects changing ownership and identity, though here the landscape mirrors it back perfectly in the still water.
Across these places, from Cong to Moore Hall, from Ballinrobe to Killary, patterns continue to repeat in altered forms. Water disappears underground before resurfacing elsewhere. Estates become ruins. Ruins become woodland. Language carries meanings beneath meanings. Stories survive by changing shape.
Returning again to Cong, I have a better understanding of how it forms part of a much larger system of geological flow, historical pressure and cultural inheritance. What holds this region together is not stillness, but movement beneath the surface.
And above Lough Nafooey (also called Lough Finny), not far from the hairpin bends etched into the volcanic ash surface of Aill Dubh (Black Cliff), long after the road narrows into silence once again, a cuckoo’s call crosses the hills, marking time in a landscape that never quite repeats itself in the same way twice.
Accommodation was provided by Michaeleen’s Manor B&B in Cong, County Mayo (twins and doubles €115 B&B, singles €70), and the Leenane Hotel in County Galway (doubles from €120 B&B)
This beautiful woodland has been named among the best in Europe
This stunning woodland is located in Dartmoor(Image: Getty)
One of Britain’s last remaining ancient temperate rainforests has been recognised amongst Europe’s most enchanting forest trails this summer. Wistman’s Wood, nestled within Dartmoor, secured third place on the list thanks to its remote location, centuries-old dwarf oak trees and captivating woodland scenery.
Travel specialists at Avis examined lesser-known European forests with Perućica Rainforest, in Bosnia and Herzegovina, claiming the top position and Spain’s Otzarreta Forest taking second place.
Though Wistman’s Wood was the sole British entry, it’s easy to see why this breathtaking location earned its spot.
Located just 31 miles from Exeter Airport, Wistman’s Wood offers convenient access for those exploring Devon.
The forest’s remarkable 500-year-old dwarf oaks have been twisted into gnarled, moss-draped shapes through centuries of Atlantic weather, emerging from a carpet of lichen-clad granite rocks.
The area feels more like a concealed treasure than a typical woodland, offering rewards to those who value ambience, legend and untamed scenery over picture-perfect vantage points.
Writing on Tripadvisor, one recent guest to the woodland commented: “Stunning ancient woodland that will make you feel like you are in a fairytale. A must-visit place. A lovely and easy walk from a small car park opposite the Two Bridges Hotel.
“The woodland is hidden in the fields, you cannot see it from the main road. It roughly takes one hour to reach it from the car park. We visited in autumn on a rainy day, and still, it was magical. This is one of the most unique woodlands you can find in the UK.”
A further visitor enthused: “The wood was fun, the lichen hung like Hagrid’s beard. The sights were astonishing and we saw loads of cows and sheep. I would recommend it to everybody.”
Route Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh Which side should I sit? The right initially, then switch to left Distance 83 miles (133km) Time 2hrs 40mins Frequency 4 trains a day (2 on Sundays) Ticket £32 single OperatorScotRail
There is only one rail route in Britain offering views of both the west and east coasts from a regular local train, and that’s the line from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh. For the east coast, look out for Cromarty Firth away to the right as the train approaches Dingwall, about half an hour after leaving Inverness. Later, you have good views of west coast sea lochs as the train runs down to the Atlantic coast at Kyle. And in between you’ll find alliterative desolation aplenty as it pauses at Achnashellach, Achnasheen, Achanalt and Attadale.
The last 20 minutes down to Kyle bring a magic panorama of coast, headlands and islands. The sun sparkles on Loch Carron with glorious views north to the wild Applecross peninsula. Seals shuffle for safety as we approach Duncraig and all too soon we are pulling into Kyle of Lochalsh.
Ireland: from Dublin to Wicklow
A remarkable piece of engineering’: the railway cuts under Bray Head in Ireland. Photograph: Vitalli/Alamy
Route Dublin Connolly to Arklow Which side? Sit on the left Distance 50 miles Time 1hr 45mins Frequency 6 trains a day (3 on Sat and Sun) Ticket €8.85 single OperatorIrish Rail
Londoners may be surprised to read that Dublin had commuter trains earlier than the UK capital. Ireland’s first railway ran from Westland Row to Kingstown (now Dún Laoghaire), a stretch of track that is now the prelude to a fine route that extends right down to Wexford and Rosslare in the south-east corner of Ireland. The spectacular coastal section just south of Dún Laoghaire is a remarkable piece of engineering as the railway cuts under Bray Head. It was designed by none other than Isambard Kingdom Brunel, and in many ways resembles his celebrated coastal railway at Dawlish in Devon.
South of Bray Head, the railway hugs the coast, with fine views of the Wicklow Hills well off to the west and the Murrough Wetlands closer to hand. Coastal purists may opt to stop at Wicklow, but I recommend staying on board to enjoy a short foray through the hills and down the Vale of Avoca, with its lush woodland. Alight in Arklow where the railway regains the coast again.
Germany: over the sea to the island of Sylt
Looking out across the Wadden Sea toward Sylt island. Photograph: Peter Schatz/Alamy
Route Husum to Keitum Which side? Sit on the left Distance 44 miles Time 1hr Frequency Hourly trains Ticket €21.60 single OperatorDB
One cannot fail to be impressed by the determination of the Weimar Republic’s engineers and planners who needed to build a railway to Sylt. This sandy outpost of German territory is the largest of the North Frisian Islands. The traditional route to Sylt relied on a ferry from a mainland port on territory which was ceded to Denmark after the first world war. So a causeway was constructed across the Wadden Sea to reach Sylt. It opened in 1927, and a century later the Hindenburg causeway is still car-free – and since mid-April this year it is for the very first time possible to ride a posh ICE train over the sea to Sylt.
Leaving Husum, a coastal town shaped by the herring trade, we sweep over the town’s harbour on a high bridge. There’s a cluster of fishing boats at the quayside below. Then we glide north over marshlands and meadows, all protected by high dykes to prevent the area from bring inundated.
From the train, you get a real feel for these landscapes with their distant horizons. But the sea seems far away, held at bay by dykes. That changes after Klanxbüll, where the railway turns west and crosses salty mudflats to reach the open sea. Check tide tables and make this journey at high tide – ideally on a stormy day. In such conditions, this is an unforgettable experience. Alight at Keitum, to my mind the nicest village on Sylt. From the station, it is an easy stroll into the village with several cosy cafes and a feast of fine Frisian thatch and gables.
Spain: Galicia’s spectacular fjords
The rugged coastline around Ortigueira on Galicia’s northern coast, passing close to Acantilados de Loiba. Photograph: Chechu de la Fuente/Alamy
Route Ribadeo to Ferrol Which side? Sit on the right Distance 91 miles Time 3hrs 10mins Frequency 4 trains a day Ticket €11.15 single OperatorRenfe
This is a superb short journey that follows the western extremity of Europe’s most extensive narrow-gauge rail network, which runs from the French border at Hendaye through the Basque Country and along Spain’s north coast through Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia. I have mixed feelings about the route as a whole, which veers well inland and is often quite humdrum. Hendaye to Ferrol demands 20 hours on trains, but the short ride on the final section is a slow travel adventure running west from Ribadeo, with twists and turns as the train navigates the rugged coastline around Ortigueira.
The tacky beach-front development west of Ribadeo is best ignored. Soon we cut away from the motorway and regain the coast, waves breaking to the right and rich eucalyptus forest to the left. There are superb views across the great rias (estuaries), which are a hallmark of the Galician coast. Look out for Cape Ortegal away to the north. When I rode this route on a mid-winter morning, there were barely a dozen passengers aboard for most of the journey, although numbers picked up on the final half hour as we were joined by shoppers heading into Ferrol.
This is the humblest of local trains – those in search of luxury on rails may prefer the El Transcantabrico charter train, which includes Ribadeo to Ferrol as part of a wider seven-night itinerary – at eye-watering prices.
Italy: Along the Calabrian coast
The Ionian coast near Capo Spartivento at the very tip of southern Italy. Photograph: Antonio Violi/Alamy
Route Reggio di Calabria to Soverato Which side? Sit on the right Distance 100 miles Time 2hrs 20mins Frequency every 1 to 2 hrs Ticket €11.90 single OperatorTrenitalia
Most tourists on the smart Frecciarossa train down the Calabrian coast decant at Villa San Giovanni to join the ferry to Sicily. From here it is just 15 minutes on to Reggio di Calabria where the fast trains from northern Italy and Rome all terminate. This seems to be the end of the line and the end of Italy. But not quite! For a local railway contours the coast of Calabria, leaving the Strait of Messina to reach Ionian shores.
No other railway in Europe hugs the coast as consistently as this stretch of the Ionian Railway, part of a longer route which extends all the way to faded Taranto in Puglia, more than 290 miles from Reggio di Calabria.
This recommended taster of the line follows the coast around the southernmost tip of mainland Italy. It is a route of capes and bays, olives and oleander, the bright drama of a changing coastline and a sharp contrast to the dark forests of Aspromonte that dominate the hills on the left. Away to the right, there is nothing but the sea between here and the Libyan coast.
Europe by Rail: The Definitive Guide (19th edition) by Nicky Gardner & Susanne Kries (Hidden Europe Publications, £21.99). To order a copy for £19.79 go to guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.
“DOES the hunchback of Notre-Dame still live here?” my eight-year-old daughter Molly asks, as we look up at the gleaming white towers of Paris’ recently restored Notre-Dame cathedral.
Although we don’t find any secret medieval residents inside, we do adore gazing at the gold stars dotted across the sky-blue ceilings of the side chapels, and the stunning stained-glass windows that cast rainbows of light across the floor.
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A trip to Paris provides fun for all the familyCredit: Getty Images/iStockphotoEntry to Notre-Dame is free, but make sure to book aheadCredit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
The five-year restoration project – after Notre-Dame burned down in 2019 – cost more than £600million and involved around 2,000 craftspeople, with 1,200 oak trees sourced from French forests – and the results are miraculous.
Entry is free, but save queuing time by booking ahead (Notredamedeparis.fr).
Stairway to heaven
Dine on the city’s famous cuisineCredit: Instagram/Bouillon Pigalle
We’re staying at NoPi Chic, a gorgeous Airbnb just off the main drag in Pigalle and down the road from the Moulin Rouge.
The two-bedroom apartment has high ceilings and a treasure trove of objets d’art. The kids’ room comes with the cutest bunks, and we love climbing the classic Parisian spiral staircase to our front door.
Each morning, I sit on the balcony with an espresso watching locals on their baguette runs, while Sundays are market day on nearby Rue des Martyrs, where tables are laden with cheese, wine and paintings.
Just five minutes’ walk away is Bouillon Pigalle, a modern French bistro, where Molly and her older brother Elliot, 11, marvel at the black-and-white uniformed waiters buzzing about.
We order a litre of citronnade, £8.85, which the kids speedily drain, before digging into oeufs mayonnaises, £2.20, as a starter, and demolishing steak frites, £10.90.
Our puddings – crème brulée, £3.30, and chocolate mousse, £3.25 – are also a triumph (Bouillonlesite.com).
The next day, we head to the incredible Fondation Louis Vuitton in north-west Paris, designed by architect Frank Gehry using thousands of custom-carved glass panes, making the building resemble a boat.
Kids can borrow iPads that guide them through the gallery’s modern and contemporary art exhibits.
From the top terraces, we soak up the view over the city and the Eiffel Tower, before heading next door to Le Jardin d’Acclimatation, included in the entry fee, to explore its landscaped gardens and amusement park, complete with fairground rides, minigolf and a house of mirrors.
Another gem we all adore is Passage Jouffroy, one of a series of 19th-century covered arcades.
The kids love roaming around Pain d’Epices, a magical toy shop (Paindepices.fr), while the original, stunning site of the oldest chocolatier in Paris, À La Mère de Famille, which opened in 1761, sits close by on Rue du Faubourg Montmartre.
The chocolates here really are miniature masterpieces (Lameredefamille.com).
That evening, we check out Bouillon Julien, half an hour’s walk away from our apartment.
The jaw-dropping art nouveau paintings and glasswork must make this bistro one of the capital’s most beautiful.
The two-bedroom apartment had high ceilings and a treasure trove of objets d’artCredit: SuppliedThe Sun’s Ellie O’Mahoney enjoyed watching locals on their baguette runs each morningCredit: Supplied by Ellie O’Mahoney
The food is excellent, too.
We order the avocado and prawn cocktail, £4.35, then yet another steak and chips with an amazing house butter, £11.25, washed down with a carafe of merlot, £6.90 (Bouillon-julien.com).
Santé to being well-fed and well-cultured!
GO: PARIS
A three-night stay at NoPi Chic costs around £1,179 (Airbnb.co.uk).
Eurostar train tickets from London to Paris cost from £39 each way (eurostar.com).
