learned

Less than two hours from Oslo airport, PAN’s sky-high forest cabins offer hot tubs, canoe trips, wildlife spotting and a lesson in slowing down.

What is the lure of a treehouse? Is it the memory of climbing trees, higher and higher into the secret world of pinecones and canopy? Or something more primordial – not just admiring nature from a distance, but becoming part of it?

In the depths of the Norwegian forests, there are many places to escape into wilderness, but few are as beguiling as PAN’s Treetop Cabins. Three futuristic prisms, eight metres up on metal frames. Up here, you’re level with the treetops, and the world falls away. They have an otherworldly, science-fiction feel, yet they’re discreet. You come upon them suddenly, before they merge secretively back among the pines.

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Less than two hours drive from Oslo airport, they stand on a hillside of Finnskogen, a vast forest nudging up against the Swedish border. These woods have an ancient feel – silent and still. It’s easy to understand Norway’s guiding philosophy of friluftsliv here – that wellbeing is found outdoors.

Sleeping in the sky

Inside, each lodge is the perfect tiny house – a pocketsize kitchen and living area at the front, the bathroom in the centre section with a spacious shower. The walls are pine-clad and it all has that Scandinavian sleekness: everything you need, nothing you don’t. On the upper platform, the double bed overlooks the triangular view.

Oh, that view. Pan is the kind of place where you can feel happy filling your time with very little. You can while away a whole afternoon curled up on the sofa, watching the birds flit between branches, and the sun peel out over the lake below. It’s fascinating in any weather. We had blue-sky sunshine, sunsets and a storm that rolled in over the horizon like slate sheets. It hit the lake and we watched from afar, cosy in our sky-high retreat. I put my phone down, opened the floor-to-ceiling window, listened to the hush of the forest and read a whole book in one sitting.

Embracing the cabin life

Meals can be as hands-on or hands-off as you choose. The cabins are stocked with essentials, but PAN can also arrange breakfast hampers and catering from local producers. We woke to a basket of fresh bread, pancakes, local cheeses and honey, and in the evening I made elk stew with juniper berries, to their neatly measured recipe.

In the simple, pared-back cabin life, cooking and eating together felt celebratory, with the panorama of forest and lake beneath us. As evening settled over the trees, we lingered over dinner by the window, watching the changing light on the water long after the plates were empty.

At ground level, we found a table dotted with tall candles in glass lanterns, to light up al fresco suppers. Off-season, you can barbecue here (not in summer, to prevent wildfires), but any time of year you can lie out on the fur-clad seats, pull up a blanket and watch a billion stars overhead.

Exploring Norway’s ancient forest

There is much to pack quiet days with. Bicycles await to pedal the wooded paths, but we loved just walking. This forest is special. Centuries ago, Finnish refugees were drawn here, bringing myths and folklore with them. The silence is immense, the lichen underfoot puffs green dust, and sometimes a strange mist hangs in the distance, as though a forest spirit has shifted its form, just as you came upon it.

There are still wolves, bears and lynx, moose, foxes and arctic hares. We saw the latter two – not the rest to my chagrin. Our host explained we wouldn’t – “They know how to disappear when they hear you coming,” she commiserated.

But the highlight for me was the ‘Room with Three Walls’ – the outdoor, wood-fired hot tub. The fourth wall is the forest, the ceiling is the sky, and sitting in the steaming water as the forest turns gold in the sunset, with a glass of something sparkling in my hand (which, heads up, I bought at the duty free in London because booze is mighty spenny over in Norway), was holiday perfection.

A river safari through the wilderness

We signed up for an evening canoe down the Fløgåa River, sharing a boat with our guide, Amund. We pushed off into the dark waters and floated quietly downstream. Along the journey, signs of beavers were everywhere – dams of muddled twigs and neat points on felled tree trunks you’d need a Black & Decker to be able to recreate, though the elusive creatures refused to materialise.

By now, we were used to the silent stillness of the Finnskogen, but on the river, with the gentle lap of the oar and the forested bank reflected in the depths, it felt closer than ever. As we approached the final bend, Amund hissed, “There. On the left,” and a fat beaver trundled down his slipway and submerged into the current with barely a ripple.

On the journey home: Norway’s famous buns and Europe’s only emerald mine

A final tip if you’re driving the route back to the airport, along the shores of Norway’s largest lake, Mjosa. There are two stops enroute, both bizarre… and unmissable.

For a sweet treat, pull into the service station at Espa (suspend your disbelief) for Norway’s most famous bakery, Bolleland. It’s packed with neon ‘I [heart] Bolleland’ merch that lends it a crazed vibe, but the chocolate and caramel buns are legendary.

Don’t scoff them in the car, head to the emerald mines – Ole Jørgen Bjørnstad Smaragdgruvene, where you can eat them on the stony lakeshore while you sift for small – yet genuine – emeralds. It’s the only such mine in Europe where you can keep anything you find. A viridescent souvenir of the forestlands.

How to book PAN’s treetop cabins

PAN’s Cabins are available from £480 per night. Breakfast and meals available at an extra cost. Book your river kayak (and other nature experiences) through Pan.

MOST people go on a cruise to relax, lie on a sun lounger and enjoy some pina coladas as they sail from one destination to the next.

But my cruise has a legend on board who is intent on putting guests through their paces.

Enter Shirley Ballas, head judge of BBC’s Strictly Come Dancing, who has been invited to run a masterclass on the jive.

At a diminutive 5ft 2in, Shirley’s stature might be small, but she takes no prisoners as she issues loud, stern instructions: “STEP, TWIST, SWIVEL, KICK, AGAIN!”.

This is day two of a seven-night Norwegian fjords voyage round-trip from Southampton on MSC Cruises’ 19-deck, 6,300- passenger ship, the MSC Virtuosa.

Shirley is scheduled to host several activities during the sailing, but for now the focus is on the jive, which is taking place somewhere in the North Sea.

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More than a hundred of us have turned up and it’s proving tricky. As if the shimmies, chasses and spins weren’t enough, the music then speeds up. I’m as coordinated as a two-legged spider.

Think right foot instead of left; arms up instead of down. I’m confident with the kick, but then a fellow passenger whispers in my ear: “If you point your toes it will look more elegant!”

Far more certain is that the jive will leave you out of breath and sweaty. “Forget the gym,” says Shirley. “This is a much ­better workout.” Agreed!

And it’s also a lot of fun. Who cares if you’re any good — it’s about having a go.

And Shirley never lets on — despite being asked endlessly — that Emma Willis, Josh Widdicombe and Johannes Radebe will be the hit BBC dance ­contest’s new presenters.

Before we finish, Shirley sets a challenge: To practice and film ourselves dancing the jive and she’ll post the best performances on social media.

MSC is an Italian line with an Italian vibe and if you’re looking for La Dolce Vita, you’ll find it on Virtuosa.

Deck 15’s Via Dei Cappellari points guests towards the swimming pools.

Deck 5’s Galleria Virtuosa is a replica Italian shopping arcade. Were it not topped by an LED Dome — which has mesmerising light shows projected onto it nightly — you’d think you were in Italy.

As for the buffet, it offers superb pizzas and pastas, though if you’d prefer a roast, that’s available too. And elsewhere there’s lots of glitter and glitz, from the champagne bar to the three-storey Swarovski crystal staircase in the atrium.

There’s no Deck 17, a number considered unlucky by Italians. There is, however, a Deck 13 and my balcony cabin is on it.

It’s stylish, roomy and, because the ship is sailing from Southampton for the summer, it has welcome British touches, like a kettle and Yorkshire tea bags.

My fellow passengers are an international bunch, most of whom are European. They’re also younger than normal (the average age is 42) and like to dance.

Wherever you go, whatever the time of day, you’ll find dance classes and much hip-swivelling. The sessions are all free and feature pop, bachata, samba and rock.

I try salsa, hoping it will improve my jive. It doesn’t!

And much of the action happens in the Galleria. You can be walking along, window-shopping, when suddenly you’ll be swept up in a silent disco or flash mob.

That’s how I find myself performing Village People’s YMCA alongside hundreds of others.

It’s all rather joyous, a word used by Shirley multiple times during a Q&A session held later in the week in the ship’s theatre. She uses it to describe the experiences she seeks in life.

Of course, there’s plenty of en­ter­tainment that can be watched rather than participated in.

Such as the ship’s ABBA show, in which hits such as Mamma Mia and Waterloo are performed by a cast in flared trousers and tasselled costumes.

Then there’s Ajedrez, a Cirque du Soleil-style show whose acrobatics are so staggering it’s a struggle not to gasp in amazement or cover your eyes.

Even Shirley (who’s sat in the row behind me) thinks its fab!

I get off the ship in Edinburgh and Norway — where the cobbled backstreets of Stavanger are lined by white clapboard houses so cutesy it’s as if they’ve been built for Instagram.

Yet for many guests, the ship itself is the destination and they can’t wait to get back on board.

MSC Virtuosa will be offering another Strictly-themed sailing in August when former pro-dancer Kristina Rihanoff will be on board to host masterclasses and dish up show gossip.

Meanwhile, I try to perfect the jive —  and at one point a fellow passenger even praises my leg extension. But I’m not happy enough with it to dare send a clip to Shirley.

I am inspired though, and will keep dancing. As for the cruise, it’s a 10 from me!

Mel Fielding, who has more than 26,000 followers on Instagram, shared her first solo break on the social media platform and what she had learned from the experience

While going on holiday with your family or best friends can be a lovely experience, sometimes taking a break by yourself can be exactly what you need. One travel influencer took herself on a 24-hour break to one of the most scenic parts of the UK and documented the experience on Instagram.

Mel Fielding, who has more than 26,000 followers on Instagram, shared her first solo break on the social media platform. She said: “Although I’ve done a few solo trips abroad over the years, and love exploring the UK, I’ve never really been on a solo trip in the UK before, so last week I decided to head to Devon for one night on my own.”

First, she visited Hope Cove, five miles west of Salcombe, where she went for a meal, saying she “felt super self-conscious at first”.

“I knew I wanted to watch the sunset but I had two hours to wait, so I headed down to the beach on my own,” she said. “I read my book and felt myself relaxing as I watched the sun go down. I felt so happy that I’d pushed through the awkwardness and stayed until the sun had set.”

Mel was staying in her van overnight, and had booked into nearby Bolberry House Caravan and Camping Park, which she said “felt really peaceful”. She continued: “I survived my first night along in the van and slept surprisingly well!

“It wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be! Isn’t it funny how things usually feel worse in our minds than they actually are.”

The next morning she visited Salcombe, and the Snapes Point viewpoint. “By this point, I felt like I’d relaxed into the trip so I headed on a solo sea swim,” she said.

“No one else was swimming and I did feel a little self-conscious at first, but knew I’d regret not going for a dip on such a beautiful day. I made coffee on the beach afterwards and realised that, although I’d done a few solo trips before, doing stuff solo is a bit like exercising a muscle. You have to keep using it to keep it strong.

“I consider myself a pretty adventurous person, but I also realised it’s okay to feel nervous before doing things you don’t do that often. I ended up having a really wonderful 24 hours and it was a good reminder to feel the fear and do it anyway. Now I’m already planning my next solo overnight adventure.”

Writing in the video description, she added: “I know that to some people this won’t be a big deal, but I also know that to some, it will, so if you’re in the latter group and would also love to go on a solo break in the UK this year, but feel nervous about it, I hope sharing this helps in some way!”

People in the comments left their own experiences of solo travel. One said: “I have been single for seven years, so I decided a while back to do whatever I wanted to, even by myself. My biggest challenge was camping in my tent in Wales last summer… best thing I ever did.

“I was adopted by a lovely family for drinks around the campfire. You’re never truly alone. But the feeling of accomplishment when you do these things alone, immense! Makes you remember you can conquer anything.”

Another said: “I have never done a solo trip ever. If I ever get better I have promised myself a trip to Florence.

“Not having anyone else dictate where I am going. I always put others first. So it would be an amazing dream. Good on you! More of us need to lead by your example.”

FOR years, I’ve had a personal vendetta against bed runners in hotel rooms.

Upon entering the room, I’d have whipped it off and stuffed it in the wardrobe faster than you could say ‘late check out.’

Because while I love a crisp, white, freshly-laundered hotel bed, I am fully aware that the runners at the end of the bed see the inside of a washing machine far less than the sheets.

And I really don’t want to think about how many sweaty, bare bottoms have been pressed up against them before I checked in.

But… it turns out the random, possibly quite dirty piece of fabric actually has an important use – it’s to protect the bed sheets while you unpack.

So your bags, which have scraped the underbellies of aircraft, been dragged along airport floors and left to stand on grubby pavements, usually get spread across the duvet once you’ve checked in, so you can unpack.

The bed runner is there to stop any of that suitcase grime coming off onto the sheets.

Once you’ve hung up all your clothes, the runner can then take its rightful place at the back of the wardrobe.

The humble bed runner isn’t the only little-known travel hack provided by hotels, planes and attractions either – here are nine more that have the power to transform your holiday.

Find out which rows get served first

Different airlines start their in-flight trolleys at different rows on the plane.

Ryanair’s in-flight trolley service usually starts at row 1 and works its way towards the back of the plane.

EasyJet usually starts at row 1 and row 30, at the back of the plane. They work towards each other, with rows 17 and 18 being served last.

British Airways usually starts at the front of each cabin, then works towards the back.

So, if you’re hoping to be the first to get served, keep this in mind when reserving your seats.

Request a ‘special meal’ to get served first on a long-haul flight

Speaking from experience, if you opt for one of the speciality meals when making your flight booking, you’ll almost definitely get served first at mealtimes.

You can usually opt for a whole range of food, from veggie and vegan to religious restrictions.

Reserving sun loungers

We’ve all been there. You’ve enjoyed a lie-in and a leisurely breakfast, as is your right on holiday, then you get to the pool, for a perfectly respectable 10.30 am… and all of the sun loungers have been bagged.

But there are some unicorn hotels where they will actually let you reserve your sun loungers for the week, so that you can skip the early morning race for the beds.

Cyprus is leading the charge on this front, with the Sunrise chain in Protaras and the Kanika Hotels group both offering the service.

Alternatively, if you’re willing to tip the pool staff on the first day, in destinations like Hurghada in Egypt, many of them will get your sunbeds ready every day.

Some of them even bring your drink over as soon as you’ve arrived and settled in.

Free toothbrushes, razors and other bathroom items

Fancy hotels often come with bathroom amenity kits as standard, with everything from razors and toothbrushes to shower caps and toothpaste included.

But many lower-tier hotels also keep these items stocked behind reception, in case guests have forgotten something.

So next time you’ve left your toothbrush at home by mistake, have a friendly word with the receptionist before you pop out to the shops, as they may already have what you’re looking for, free of charge.

Free magazines at the airport

One of the most common items to buy at the airport is magazines and newspapers, especially when you have to kill time.

However, this can quickly rack up in price when many of the glossy mags cost as much as £4.99.

But did you know that many airports have free magazine stands?

They can often be found in the corridors when you are travelling to your gate, or even after you have gone through the gate agent and are waiting to board.

But the best are often found near the posh airport lounge exit.

They vary depending on which ones they have, so you can’t always be fussy.

On flights from London Gatwick, we’ve managed to pick up Wallpaper* magazine, as well as Escapism, Conde Nast Traveller and Stylist.

Freebies at Duty Free

Duty Free shops at airports are like Marmite – you either love them and spend a good half hour browsing, or dash through as quickly as possible.

But by skipping it, you could be missing out on some great freebies.

Many of the counters have samples of products to give away – everything from face serums and perfume to hand cream.

A lot of the larger airports often offer mini makeovers at certain high-end makeup counters, too.

Free airport lounge

If you’ve ever wandered past the easyJet Lounge before a flight after spending a small fortune on Pret, more fool you.

EasyJet passengers who book an Inclusive Plus fare automatically receive up to three hours of access to several airport lounges across the UK.

They include lounges at the following airports: Birmingham, Bristol, Edinburgh, Jersey, Gatwick, Luton, Manchester and Stansted.

Visitors can get tea, coffee and soft drinks, as well as beer and alcohol, plus hot and cold food.  

The Inclusive Plus fare is more expensive than the standard fare, but it comes with a bunch of extras like fast track security and free meal deals onboard.

Max out the free hot water

This one might seem trivial, but you could save at least £15 on a flight by asking cabin crew for hot water fill-ups.

Bring your reusable cup and some teabags on a flight and have tea for the whole journey.

Alternatively, you can also bring an instant noodle cup and ask them to fill it with hot water for a very affordable and hot in-flight meal.

Loyalty perks

Plenty of hotel chains offer free perks for customers who sign up to their loyalty programmes – and many of those programmes are either free or cost very little to join.

Hyatt, Hilton, Marriott Bonvoy and IHG all have loyalty schemes that give you little extras like late check-outs, free wifi, booking discounts and even ‘extra night free’ offers.