lakeside

Canada’s coolest foodie getaway pairs skyscraper city breaks with lakeside wineries, beach saunas and vineyard feasts

PAIR a foodie city break in Canada’s Toronto with vineyards and lakeside luxury in Prince Edward County, says Deputy Picture Editor Antoinette Cumberbatch.

Cocooned in a blanket, I gaze at the yellow hue above the horizon and the colours sweeping across the sky, as the sun sets gloriously over the vast expanse of Lake Ontario.

For fans of elegant pinot noir, Closson Chase is also worth a stop Credit: Steve Elphick
Join the skyline at the CN tower in Toronto Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto

From my deckchair, all I can hear are the rhythmic sounds of water hitting the pebbled shore as I sip a glass of crisp rosé. This is perfection.  

Feeling vine 

I’m exploring Canada’s Prince Edward County, a 21/2-hour drive east from Toronto, and the eclectic Drake Devonshire in the quaint town of Wellington makes for the perfect base, with its beach-house feel, glass-fronted outdoor sauna and this idyllic lakeside setting.

Airy bedrooms with quirky artwork, plus a ping-pong table and photobooth downstairs complete the vibe.

Double rooms cost from £164 per night (Thedrake.ca/drakedevonshire).  

ISLE HAVE SOME

I visited the new Caribbean private island only open to cruise passengers


JET SET

I’ve flown to 83 places from my local airport – including 3 countries in one day

“The County”, as it’s called by Torontonians, is fast becoming known for its wineries, too.

Less than 10 minutes’ drive from my pad is Huff Estates, where the team has been perfecting its wines since 2002.

I sample a few silky blends – my fave is the Vines Unoaked Chardonnay – and learn how the region’s limestone-rich soil and cooler climate produces a unique blend. Tastings cost from £12 per person (Huffestates.com).  

Meanwhile, it’s a family affair at TerraCello Winery.

Taco about a delicious Mexican feast! Credit: The Washington Post via Getty Im
Hit the Distillery District for foodie heaven Credit: Getty Images

The seven-acre vineyard with Italian heritage is small compared to the others, but it makes exquisite riesling – tastings cost £11 per person – as well as delicious pizza, £10 (Terracellowinery.com).

For fans of elegant pinot noir, Closson Chase is also worth a stop, just a few minutes down the road (Clossonchase.com). 

Top of the crops 

Later that evening, I join a farm-to-table experience that’s as hands-on as it gets, with husband and wife team Luhana and Zach at Littlejohn Farm.

Cooking together in a small group, I’m tasked with rolling and filling fresh pasta for the cheese agnolotti – a skill I vow to continue back home.

But the star of the show has to be tender, home-raised lamb, which is the best I’ve ever tasted. Experiences cost from £122 per person (Littlejohnfarm.com).

I end my night at The Duchess, an elegant art-deco bar just a stroll from my hotel, with a Stay Curious cocktail – a heady blend of brandy, pineapple rum, coconut Campari, bergamot, lime and cucumber, £12 (Barduchess.com).  

Another gem is Base 31, 20 minutes’ drive away. Once a former WW2 airbase, it’s now a creative cultural hub with street food and live gigs.

I wander around the former barracks and gaze up at the restored Lancaster Bomber, before reading poignant love letters from a serviceman to his wife in its Love Notes exhibition. Entry costs £5 (Base31.ca). 

There’s nothing beige about Drake Devonshire Credit: Nikolas Koenig
Pair a foodie city break in Canada’s Toronto with vineyards and lakeside luxury in Prince Edward County, says Deputy Picture Editor Antoinette Cumberbatch Credit: Supplied by Antoinette Cumberbatch

To the tower! 

The sister hotel of my lakeside stay, The Drake, puts me in the thick of Canada’s biggest city and Ontario’s capital, Toronto.

Set in one of the city’s coolest districts – Queen West – indie shops, cafes and restaurants line the pavements, alongside vibrant street art. Double rooms cost from £142 a night (Thedrake.ca/thedrakehotel). 

Of course, my first visit here wouldn’t be complete without whizzing to the top of the CN Tower.

Standing at 533m high, this former communication tower has been a staple of the skyline since 1976. Tickets to the highest platform cost £32 per person (Cntower.ca). 

But for me, Toronto is really about the food. I start at Lakeview diner, in the Dundas West neighbourhood.

You may not know the name, but it’s big-screen famous, having featured in blockbusters including Hairspray and Cocktail.

You can even sit in the booth where Tom Cruise sat, sipping its must-try apple-pie milkshake, £6.50.

Just being here feels like stepping into cinematic history, with autographs scrawled above the bar by actors who have filmed here (Thelakeviewrestaurant.ca).  

Elsewhere, St Lawrence Market, set up in 1814, proves perfect for a crash course in Canadian flavours.

I can’t resist picking up a raspberry-shaped pastry filled with raspberry whipped cream, £2.45, from Future Bakery, and I try the legendary peameal bacon sandwich in its salty, buttery roll from Carousel Bakery, £4.50 (Stlawrencemarket.com).  

Maple matters 

Close to St Lawrence’s, the historic Distillery District oozes character with its industrial red-brick buildings and cobbled streets.

I grab a delicious signature maple latte, £3.25, at Balzac’s (Balzacs.com), before heading to Mexican El Catrin Destileria for lunch.

Guacamole is crushed tableside for the nachos, £11.30, and I devour the fish tacos, £15.50, in seconds.

With tequila flavours including hibiscus and lime, tamarind and pineapple, I opt for a flight of mini margaritas to remove any decision-making, £27 for four (Elcatrin.ca). 

Craving some retail therapy, the next day I head to Ossington Avenue, a 10-minute stroll from The Drake.

Here, I find LoversLand, a stylish concept store selling cute trinkets and excellent socks (Loversland.com), retro fashion heaven Uncle Studios (Unclexstudios.com), and Rotate This, a record shop stacked with nostalgic vinyl (Rotatethis.com). 

The final evening of my trip comes around all too soon, and to mark the occasion I book a table at the achingly-cool Prime Seafood Palace, which is high-end – the chef’s menu will set you back £133 – but without any of the pretentiousness.

The tuna tartare and prime rib are flawless, but it’s the key-lime pie and maple tart that really steal the show for me (Primeseafood palace.ca).  

It makes for a pairing as perfect as Canada’s unofficial capital and the rural haven of Prince Edward County. 

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