Kingdom

One thing unites the British more than anything else. It stands there in plain sight but is rarely spoken about. We may try to hide it; we may not admit it to ourselves; but under the surface, deep down, in the nicest possible way, we are all a little odd. Not in a sinister way, just eccentric, weird, unpredictable and downright wonderful. As a nation we have an artistic and creative zest and boffin-like inventiveness. In fields of innovation, we led the tech world with some of our brave and crazy inventions. Even our landscapes are damn weird, with some of the oldest, most mysterious and diverse geological oddities in Europe, and plentiful legends too. I spent years exploring the enchanting strangeness of Britain, discovering follies, eccentric public art, strange buildings, mysterious ruins and eerie landscapes for my Weird Guide, which features about 300 of these curiosities. Here are some of my favourites.

The Yoxman, Suffolk

In a field not far from the A12 in Yoxford, Suffolk, stands the Yoxman, an artwork of colossal proportions. At 8m (26ft) high and made from bronze, it took creator Laurence Edwards and his team four years to make. The figure is a personal tribute to Suffolk, the artist describing it as a visitor from the past, both from the land and of the land. The result, finished in 2021, is astounding – a fully grown adult barely makes it to the top of his shin, as the Yoxman dwarfs even some of the surrounding trees. From Yoxford village, take the path opposite the shop and follow it through the grounds of the hall to the statue.

Little Italy, Gwynedd

The late Mark Bourne, a chicken farmer, was obsessed by Italy, visiting as often as he could, filling notebooks with sketches of buildings and architecture. When he returned to his remote cottage on the Corris hillside in Gwynedd, Wales, he and his wife aimed to recreate what he had seen in their garden. Both worked on the creation, named Little Italy, well into their 80s, with models of everything from the Leaning Tower of Pisa to Florence’s Duomo. Although Bourne’s old garden is strictly off-limits to passersby, the surrounding wall is relatively low and the buildings are large enough to see from the path. From the Corris Institute, turn left up the hill along the lane then follow a footpath on the right after the youth hostel for about 100m.

Mannakin, Lincolnshire

Mannakin Hall near Grantham feels like an eerie plastic graveyard. Situated down a narrow Lincolnshire lane, it was set up by Roz Edwards in 2008 when she realised that most mannequins were discarded after no more than five years of service, and began to acquire those destined for landfill. Once repaired or cleaned up, they are hired out and at any given time there are about 15,000 mannequins on site; most are unclothed, but some are dressed up in Halloween costumes or strange outfits. As a working business, Mannakin Hall isn’t open to the public on a walk-in basis but you can prebook and visit as a group, attend one of the regular open days or even stay overnight in your camper van!

White Scar, Yorkshire Dales

On the west side of the Ingleborough summit in North Yorkshire, just south of the ancient Roman road, lies one of the country’s most remarkable areas of limestone pavement, known as White Scar. This extraordinary landscape formed during and after the last ice age, as massive glaciers scraped away the surface. Millennia of weathering broke down the soft alkaline stone, revealing intricate miniature canyons, or grykes. These deep fissures have become like terrariums, providing a habitat for rare plants that are normally at home in dark woodlands.

Library, Isle of Arran

The woodland Library near Levencorroch on the Isle of Arran, Scotland, is a unique tourist attraction, a cabin with an interior resembling a 3D giant visitors’ book. Built by the woodland’s owner, Albert Holmes, using trees blown down in a storm, the cabin is covered with drawings, poems, messages, words of wisdom and notes from all over the world. Ranging from playful to profound, the papers, which are now about 25 layers deep, are stuck in every conceivable space, including the ceiling. It feels like entering something from a Michel Gondry film, or a strange nest left by a literary woodland creature. Pick up a map at the Eas Mor Ecology cafe, east of Levencorroch, and follow a steep gravel path to the waterfall and on to the library. It’s a 25-minute walk.

Sultan the Pit Pony, Mid-Glamorgan

Measuring close to 200 metres from his nose to the end of his tail, Sultan the Pit Pony sits on the site of the old Penallta colliery north of Caerphilly. Mike Petts used 60,000 tons of coal shale rock to create the sculpture, which he built in the late 1990s to honour the thousands of ponies put to work in British mines throughout the Industrial Revolution. It’s close to Parc Penallta Ponds, with its wonderful wildlife and walking trails.

Painshill Follies, Surrey

Inspired by the culture, paintings and architecture he experienced during his grand tour of Europe, aristocrat Charles Hamilton began transforming his country estate – Painshill in Cobham, Surrey – into something between a work of art and a garden in 1738. Alongside a temple, gothic tower and lake, he created one of the most spectacular follies in the country, employing grotto builder Joseph Lane to construct a semi-naturalistic cavern with sparkling stalactites made of minerals such as feldspar and quartz. The park fell into ruin in the 1940s, but the local authority acquired it in the late 1970s and though much has been restored, work continues. The crystal grotto was completed in 2013, with builders making every effort to make it look like the original, using paintings of the grotto.

Rock-cut tombs, Lancashire

There is a local legend that, after being shipwrecked, Saint Patrick was washed ashore and set up a chapel at Heysham, Lancashire, sometime in the fifth century. Considering Saint Patrick was also supposed to have been shipwrecked on Ynys Môn (Anglesey), there may be some doubt about this story! Regardless, during the eighth century a chapel was built in honour of the saint. The remains of this chapel still stand, along with eight rock-cut tombs in one group of six and another of two.

Blackchurch Rock, Devon

Around 320 million years ago, the great continent of Gondwana collided with Laurasia (present-day Europe, Russia, North America and parts of Asia). The force of the impact was so great that it pushed up the rocks of Blackchurch Rock near Clovelly, Devon, into its present formation (we know the date thanks to fossils found in the stone, including Goniatites). Over time, tidal seas shaped Blackchurch further, carving out the great arch. It’s a 30-minute walk north west along the coast path from Clovelly village.

The Tilted Globe, Highlands

Joe Smith, creator of The Tilted Globe at Knockan Crag in Assynt, north of Ullapool, first learned how to dry stone in 1961, at the tender age of 11. By the time he was 19, dry-stone walling had become his means of earning a living. Over time, he stopped seeing walls as only functional and instead recognised how the stacking of stones could be beautiful, appreciating their potential for creating artworks. He has collaborated with Andy Goldsworthy on a number of projects around the world, including Slate, Hole, Wall at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh. The Tilted Globe is an independent work made from moine schist local to Knockan Crag. The area is of geological importance, as the ancient rock has been moved through tectonic action about 43 miles (70km) west to remain above the line of the younger rocks. It’s a short walk on marked trails from the turf-roofed hexagonal visitor centre.

This is an edited extract from Weird Guide by Dave Hamilton, published by Wild Things Publishing (£18.99). To support the Guardian, order your copy from guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply. Follow @davewildish

A magnificent medieval cathedral in Somerset

“So this is where Officer Nick Angel [Simon Pegg] chased that swan.” As a fan of Hot Fuzz, I was excited to explore the cathedral city of Wells in Somerset, where much of the film was shot. This charming, compact and walkable city is awash with medieval architecture and magnificent buildings, such as the gothic cathedral, with one of the oldest working clocks in the UK (late 14th century) and the Bishop’s Palace and Gardens. Within easy reach of the Mendip Hills, Cheddar Gorge and the Wookey Hole Caves, Wells makes for a low-key alternative to tourist-soaked Bath.
Alison

Wild camping in the west Highlands

The Ardnamurchan peninsula, which includes the most westerly point in mainland Britain at Corrachadh Mòr, is stunning. With my partner, I spent a night wild camping by the shell-sand beach at Sanna Bay, surrounded by the machair grassland and wildflowers. It was absolutely stunning. We walked to Ardnamurchan lighthouse, spotted some dolphins, and swam in the sea in cold but crystal clear waters. The simplicity of the trip and not having to check in at any accommodation was a plus. I would recommend it to everybody.
Jox

Cinematic light and seabirds in East Lothian

North Berwick in East Lothian always feels like a proper holiday without needing a passport. Take the early train, walk straight down to the beach, then continue past the harbour towards the Scottish Seabird Centre, where the light over the Firth of Forth changes by the minute. If the tide is out, the views are cinematic with the sand stretching so wide. On clear early evenings Bass Rock turns gold and you wonder how somewhere so close to Edinburgh can still feel quietly remote.
Michelle

Rock-pooling and picnics in Devon

I visited Beer in east Devon last summer with three friends, all of us women in our 40s, and our six children aged between four and 11. It couldn’t have been a better choice. We stayed at the lovely large YHA hostel, which was relaxed, welcoming and ideal for families. The kids were charmed by the stream running through the village and spent hours rock-pooling on the beach, discovering tiny crabs and sea anemones. We also enjoyed the clifftop walk to Seaton with its incredible views. Don’t miss Woozie’s Deli for fresh treats – perfect for picnics by the sea.
Tara

A cycling tour of the Northumberland coast

We cycled the Northumberland coast from Newcastle to Berwick over four days. We visited Dunstanburgh and Bamburgh, two of the most impressive castles in the country, the mining museum at Woodhorn and the RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh, and swam from huge, empty beaches. Cycling over the causeway to Lindisfarne was the highlight, an incredible place to visit and awesome watching the road disappear under the sea (after we’d made it back to the mainland).
Ian

Ravenspoint community hostel on Loch Èireasort, south of Stornoway and home to nesting sea eagles and sea otters, feels remote even by Outer Hebridean standards. I shared the hostel kitchen with a father and daughter cycling the Hebridean Way, and a psychiatrist who seemed genuinely quite unsettled by the vastness of the landscape stretching all around. The hostel has a rich history – it is owned by the Co-Chomunn na Pairc, one of the original community co-operatives established in the 1970s, and the profits from it, the shop and tea rooms all go back into keeping vital services open for visitors and locals alike year-round.
Eleanor

Happy days in West Yorkshire’s Happy Valley

Sharing my obsession with Happy Valley, my teenage son agreed to a long weekend in Hebden Bridge. Armed with a list of filming locations, we scouted around Sowerby Bridge and Hebden, getting a buzz from the scenes we recognised. We climbed up to Heptonstall to visit Sylvia Plath’s grave, caught a film at the independent Picture House, and hiked along the river and on to the moors beyond Hardcastle Crags. An early morning run along the canal and the best pizza in town topped it off.
Lucy

Cliffs, castles and chips in Ayrshire

Ayrshire is beautiful, bucolic, full of family-friendly activities and often overlooked by Munro-baggers heading north to the Highlands. It has excellent local produce, coastal splendour and bountiful historic attractions. Start at Dumfries House with its marvellous gardens, enormous treetop adventure area and interactive water play (much of it free!). Visit the ruins of clifftop Dunure Castle, then stroll along the sandy Croy Bay to Culzean Castle, with its own gardens, play area and spectacular views of Arran and Ailsa Craig. Then pootle up to the Coo Shed for fab local ice-creams, before rounding off your day with some outstanding fish and chips from the Wee Hurrie on Troon harbour.
Dan Ashman

A village idyll in Snowdonia

My wife and I went for a weekend break in Trefriw on the River Crafnant in north Wales. It’s a peaceful village with lively pubs. We stayed at the Fairy Falls hotel, a perfect base for exploring the surrounding river and mountain walks, and for viewing the cascades.
Seamus

Winning tip: Hadrian’s Wall by bus and train

Exploring the Hadrian’s Wall area stands out for us among our UK trips, not only for the places we visited but also because we travelled by train, bus and on foot. This meant the holiday began once we’d boarded the first train, not just once we’d arrived at our accommodation. We stayed at the Sill youth hostel, arriving there using the AD122 bus from Hexham station. This bus stops at several Roman sites between Hexham and Haltwhistle – we used it to visit Housesteads, “Britain’s most complete Roman fort”. Another highlight was the Vindolanda fort and museum around a mile and a half from the Sill.
Sharon Pinner

How often do you look down and wonder who created the path your feet are following? Or ask the cause of its curves and dips? Formed over thousands of years, paths form an “internet of feet” – a web of bridleways and hollow ways, drove roads and ridgeways, coffin tracks, pilgrimage trails and city pavements. Whether you’re hiking a National Trail or pottering along a National Trust footpath, there’s a good chance you’re following ancestral steps.

It’s thoughts like these that led me on a journey to track the evolution of British paths for my book, The Path More Travelled. Eleven thousand years ago ice age hunter-gatherers arrived from Europe’s heartlands, moving through the wilderness along broad “routeways”, that later widened to tracks when horses and then wheels were adopted in the bronze age. For more than 2,000 years, traffic moved no faster than the speed of a horse, until the internal combustion engine drove pedestrians off the road just over a century ago.

In search of the capillaries that gave life to every community in Britain, I revisited coast paths, tramped shepherds’ trails and followed the serpentine curls of rivers. Here are a few of my favourite paths that bring history to life.

Sweet Track, Somerset Levels

The hunt for prehistoric paths took me deep into the wetlands of the Somerset Levels, where the Sweet Track was discovered in 1970. Built nearly 6,000 years ago (3806BC) by early farmers who needed access to an island, the collapsed boardwalk was preserved in peat. But a short walk from the Avalon Marshes centre (with an excellent cafe and open-air museum), woodland paths explore Shapwick Heath nature reserve, where a replica section of the Sweet Track teeters through the reeds. Visitors can walk in single file along this narrow, timber causeway and imagine the world of the Neolithic pioneers who colonised Somerset’s reflective waterways long before they were drained and converted to farmland. For modern versions of the Sweet Track, visit the Norfolk Broads and Norfolk coast path, where stilted, planked boardwalks wend their way through reedbeds, salt marshes and swamp woodland known locally as alder carr.

Street of the Dead, Iona

Writing this book led me to the far west of Scotland and the tiny island of Iona, where, after decades of tramping Britain’s paths, I walked for the first time along Sràid nam Marbh, the Street of the Dead. Across Britain, coffin roads, or corpse ways, were used by remote communities to convey their dead to cemeteries. Iona’s is no more than a few hundred metres in length, and most of it takes the form of a narrow, kinking lane leading from the ancient landing beach of Port nam Mairtear (Martyr’s Bay) to the site of a monastery founded in 563. Along this ancient road came the bodies of great Gaelic lords, bound for burial close to the monastery. For many, it’s a “thin place”, where the space between this world and the next narrows. You pass the ruins of an Augustinian nunnery established in around 1200, and the MacLean’s Cross, whose intricately carved floral and animal motifs and outstretched Christ captivated pilgrims. Then the abbey appears and the Street of the Dead, angling across the grass, the final section a short avenue of red granite slabs, sunken by the weight of time into the turf of the abbey precinct. There are very few roads in Britain where you can place your feet on to slabs that have been trodden by so many generations.

Bure Valley Path, Norfolk

One of my favourite walks traces the banks of the River Bure between the market town of Aylsham and the railway village of Hoveton. It’s a typical, gentle Norfolk valley of slow meanders, cascading willows, kingfishers and herons. It was like this 100 years ago, when huge timber sailing barges, wherries, used to glide silently upriver to Aylsham’s mills. Close to the river ran a steam railway line linking Hoveton and Aylsham. Today, the nine-mile Bure Valley Path is a shared walking and cycling route that follows the course of the old railway, now relaid as a narrow-gauge steam line, the Bure Valley Railway. Cycling the path is fun, but a superb walk awaits those who take the steam train from Hoveton to Aylsham then walk back towards Hoveton on the Bure Valley Path for about two miles, where a footpath on the left drops down to the waterside church of St Mary’s in Burgh-next-Aylsham. From here, riverside footpaths head downstream past white-painted watermills and old navigation locks while occasional steam locomotives contribute to the sylvan backdrop. At Coltishall, you can rehydrate at The Rising Sun, stroll along Anchor Street where wherries were built, and then return to the Bure Valley Path for the final two miles back to Hoveton. I know of no other walk so closely related to the eras of wind and steam.

The Ridgeway, Hertfordshire to Wiltshire

The Ridgeway runs for 87 miles from Ivinghoe Beacon high in the Chiltern Hills to the prehistoric stone circle at Avebury in deepest Wiltshire. On its rolling heights, you can walk back to the iron age, when formidable hill forts commanded the vales. The ghosts of warrior-farmers can be sensed most powerfully on the western end of the Ridgeway, where the chalky trail climbs past the ramparts of Uffington, whose banks and ditches – once braced with timber and chalk rubble – enclose an area twice the size of a football pitch. Right beside the fort, a 110-metre long white horse gallops across the down, cut deep into the turf during the late bronze age or early iron age. One mile to the west, the Ridgeway passes the chambered long barrow known as Wayland’s Smithy, which once contained the remains of 14 people dated to between 3590 and 3550BC. The Ridgeway’s knack of time travel has long appealed to writers and photographers, from Thomas Hardy and Richard Jefferies, to Richard Mabey and Fay Godwin, whose book The Oldest Road: The Ridgeway (1975), unravelled the path connecting deep history with a modern national trail.

Holloways, Surrey Hills

A holloway is a sunken path, an old way worn into the land by centuries of feet and hooves. Holloway walls can be almost vertical, cut back to raw rock and roots. Some are like ravines. Others are virtual tunnels, roofed with living trees. Some appear unexpectedly as gentle troughs in the landscape. They occur most dramatically in softer geologies like chalk, sandstone and greensand. Most are just a few minutes’ walk in length, but there are parts of the country where exploration will produce some very enjoyable clusters. There are three modest holloways right beside the White Horse of Uffington on the Ridgeway, cut perhaps in prehistoric times by cattle being moved from their winter quarters in the vale to the summer grasses of the high downs. In Holloway (2012), Robert Macfarlane wrote so poetically of a buried path in the Chideock valley of south Dorset that it’s become a cause of pilgrimage for those of us who look for these places. The Surrey Hills are laced with secretive holloways. Among my favourites are the sunken tracks on the greensand of Leith Hill and farther west, the old holloways of Hascombe Hill and Hydon’s Ball. It’s along these semi-subterranean trackways that you’re most likely to detect the steady plod of Saxon cattle. Or Hobbits.

The Mass Trespass Walk, Derbyshire

The story of countryside access is written in the grit of Kinder Scout, whose frowning sandstone forms the highest point in the Peak District. In April, 1932, an excited gaggle of hikers climbed the footpath from the Derbyshire village of Hayfield up towards the brow of Kinder Scout, where they clashed with squads of gamekeepers intent on preventing public access to the moorland. Legislation followed and today the path up William Clough is described on the National Trust website as the Kinder Scout Mass Trespass Walk. A vigorous eight-mile loop along the crags and back down to Hayfield, it offers the full Pennine repertoire in a single outing, from glittering reservoir to whispering moorland and monumental rocks. It includes Kinder Downfall cascade and a section of the Pennine Way, the earliest of Britain’s national trails. I walked the trail one blustery December day, ambushed by snow flurries and sunshine that spotlit Manchester like spilt crystals on the dark plain. I’ve climbed Kinder from many directions, but this is the route that tells the best story.

Nicholas Crane’s new book, The Path More Travelled, The Secret History of Britain’s Footpaths, is published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson (£25). To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply.