Italian

‘Magic’ Italian fishing village that’s hundreds cheaper than the Amalfi coast

IF you want the beauty of the Amalfi coast but without the hefty price tag, then there is an alternative to consider.

The pretty fishing village of Camogli in northern Italy has beautiful multi-coloured houses and has even been dubbed a gem of the Italian Riviera.

Pretty Camogli is a cheaper alternative to jetting off to the Amalfi CoastCredit: Alamy
Camogli has similar qualities to Positano town on Amalfi CoastCredit: Alamy

Camogli sits on the Ligurian Riviera and its main stretch of beach is lined with pretty pastel buildings – much like towns on the Amalfi Coast.

Spiaggia di Camogli is the village’s pebbled beach that is lined with restaurants, cafes as well as sunloungers and parasols.

It’s quite a famous spot so it can get quite busy, especially on the weekend when there are daytrippers from Portofino.

One visitor who recommends visiting in low season said: “Camogli seafront always offers a bit of magic.”

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Another added: “Lovely town, one of the cutest that I have visited in Liguria. Better than most Cinque Terre villages since it has a proper beach!”

One secluded bay that is a must-visit is called San Fruttuoso di Camogli.

On the shore is a 10th-century abbey, crystal-clear water, and the underwater “Christ of the Abyss” statue.

It is only accessible by boat or scenic hiking trails – so it takes a bit of effort to see this one.

Fans of snorkelling should head to another spot called Punta Chiappa.

It’s a narrow rock formation popular for diving and snorkelling because of the amount of marine life seen in the water like snappers and amberjacks.

Visiting Camogli over destinations on the Amalfi Coast could save you money too.

Global booking platform Omio named the village as a cheap and lesser-explored Italian spot.

Doing the maths, Omio worked out that a round-trip from London to Amalfi’s Positano, which requires a changeover in Naples, costs £230.

A round-trip from London to Camogli, which has a stopover in Genoa, costs £74.

So the cost of a round-trip in July to Camogli rather than the Amalfi coast Omio could save up to £156.

San Fruttuoso Bay is a secluded spot in Camogli accessible by boat or a steep hikeCredit: Alamy

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Summers on the Amalfi coast are known for being hot and dry – Positano can reach highs of 33C.

It’s a tad cooler in the north of Italy and Camogli has average highs of 27C in July and August.

Another multi-coloured town along the coastline that you might want to tag onto your trip is Boccadasse.

Like Camogli, it has pastel-coloured houses built on top of cliffs and was a former fishing village.

It’s said to look like it’s ‘frozen in time’, and sits outside the city of Genoa and is a 30-minute drive from Camogli.

You’ll get the best views of the coastline if you walk along Corso Italia which connects Boccadasse to Genoa.

Boccadasse is also has independent restaurants that you’ll want to pop into and try Ligurian specialities like focaccia and pesto-based pasta dishes are served.

For more on Italy, check out this Italian paradise that has British Airways flights and found pretty towns away from the crowds.

And Head of Sun Travel Lisa Minot reveals more about the sleepy Italian island village she visited with 40p beers and £1.80 bottles of wine.

Camogli is considered a cheaper alternative to spots on the Amalfi CoastCredit: Alamy

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Tiny Italian city you won’t have heard of with £3 wine to get new Ryanair flights

RYANAIR is relaunching twice weekly flights to a little-known Italian city – the first time in decades.

The budget airline is reintroducing flights to Forli, the first from the UK in 18 years.

Ryanair is relaunching flights to Forli in Italy after 18 yearsCredit: Getty
Forli is dubbed by Emilia-Romagna Turismo as a “city of art”Credit: Alamy

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Based in the Emilia-Romagna region, Forli is dubbed by Emilia-Romagna Turismo as a “city of art”.

Flights will take off from London Stansted Airport between June and October, on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

It takes around two hours to reach Forli from the UK.

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And you won’t have to spend much either – you could hop on the first Ryanair flight on June 3 and return on June 6 for just £41.37 return.

Ryanair used to fly to the destination between 2001 and 2008, however the route was scrapped when the airline started to serve Bologna instead.

The comeback of the route has also been possible due to the municipal tax being removed, which was added to flights.

If visiting the city of Forli you will see traces of the Romanesque and Renaissance times, with ancient churches and piazzas that date back over 2,000 years.

One of the piazzas is Aurelio Saffi, which sits in the heart of the city and stretches 128 metres long, making it one of the largest squares in Italy.

Off the square, the historic centre is made up of four main streets – Mazzini, Garibaldi, Diaz and Della Repubblica.

Nearby, make sure to visit the Abbey of San Mercuriale, which has a 72-metre bell tower dating back to the 12th century that inspired the reconstruction of St Mark’s Campanile in Venice.

For those who love being outdoors, check out Parco Urbano Franco Agosto – a 64-acre park by the old city walls with free-roaming rabbits, ponds and sports facilities.

Aurelio Saffi sits in the heart of the city and stretches 128 metres long, making it one of the largest squares in ItalyCredit: Getty

Our favourite Loveholidays breaks

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Belpoint Beach Hotel, Antalya, Turkey

This hotel is surrounded by the forests of the Toros Mountains, giving your outdoor swim a pretty impressive backdrop. With a pool decorated with colourful parasols and a waterslide, this pretty resort also has plenty to do indoors, including a sauna and a Turkish bath to unwind in.

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El Pueblo Tamlelt, Agadir, Morocco

The huge resort has 363 rooms, each with a balcony or terrace overlooking the sea or gardens. All-inclusive food includes three daily meals in the main buffet restaurant, as well as drinks and snacks such as pizza, hot dogs and burgers at the pizzeria snack bar. If you fancy getting out and exploring, the town centre is a 10 minute drive away.

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Terramar Calella, Costa Brava, Spain

Terramar Calella puts you right in the thick of the action, with the sea on one side and the buzzing promenade on the other. Here, days start with sea swims and end with sunset drinks. Platja Gran Calella is the area’s largest beach, and here it’s right on your doorstep.

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Canvas by Mitsis Messonghi, Corfu

This Corfu resort was built for families, buzzing with entertainment and activities. With four adult pools, three kids pools, a mini waterpark and a beach on your doorstep, there’s plenty of spots for you to stretch out on a sun lounger and for the kids to splash around. And as the day winds down to a close, the party starts with mini discos, Greek dancing, lively quiz nights and karaoke.

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Forli is also well-known for its Romagnan cuisine with restaurants serving Piadina – a traditional bread often filled with local soft cheese and cured meats.

And the city is home to lots of bars as well, with some such as Volume Bar, offering a glass of wine for £3.05 and pints of beer for £3.48.

There are many other places to explore in the surrounding area as well.

Just 23 minutes from Forli is Bertinoro, which is a medieval citadel known as the ‘City of Hospitality’.

It is a great place to visit for panoramic views, stretching as far as the Adriatic Sea on clear days.

The city of Bologna is 29 minutes on the train, or an hour’s drive from Forli.

Bologna is known as Italy‘s capital of food and features a historic centre with 600 archways.

Or you could head to Rimini – which sits on the Adriatic coast with nine miles of beaches – is about 50 minutes away.

In other flight news, an airline is launching its first flights in two years from a UK airport to one of the world’s best food destinations.

Plus, a small UK airport is set to close for GOOD with its last flights departing next month.

Bologna and Rimini are also not far from ForliCredit: Alamy



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Quaint town’s restaurant wins best pizzeria at Italian Awards 2026

A cosy eatery has been crowned best pizzeria at the Italian Awards 2026, with diners praising its ‘quality hand-picked ingredients with generous toppings and a perfectly oven-fired base’

Italian cuisine is a firm favourite for most families when dining out, and a delicious pizza never fails to please – so you might be astonished to discover some of the finest examples are right on your doorstep.

In what has evolved into something of an Oscars for the Italian hospitality industry, the Italian Awards 2026 took place, celebrating the very best establishments showcasing the cuisine throughout the UK.

From traditional cafes, restaurants, pizzerias and exceptional dishes – everything received its well-earned recognition at the highly prestigious ceremony.

Emerging victorious as the winner for best pizzeria in a category featuring five rival establishments was a charming eatery nestled in the town of Darlington in the North East.

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Housed within an old Victorian-style building with dark brickwork, in a softly lit environment, it creates an intimate atmosphere, perfect for enjoying authentic pizza.

It’s an unexpected location to discover delicious, genuine Italian pasta, hidden away in a market town, but it’s absolutely worth the detour during your travels around the Peak District.

The restaurant in New Mills, High Peak, roughly eight miles south-east of Stockport, and merely 13 miles from Manchester.

While it sits somewhat away from your typical culinary hotspots, it impressed Italian food experts sufficiently that it warranted acknowledgement for bringing genuine flavour to the town.

A recent customer raved on TripAdvisor: “Without a doubt the best pizza we have ever had. Quality hand-picked ingredients with generous toppings and a perfectly oven-fired base. I like the pepperoni lover the best.

“Simple but a full slice of quality pepperoni in every bite; you don’t run out halfway through as so often I find at other restaurants. Nick and his friendly relaxed team make this a dining experience to savour. P.S. The arancini are not to miss.”

Another delighted diner shared: “Fabulous pizza restaurant! Stable Hearth has such a lovely atmosphere. Really smart and classy decor, incredibly friendly staff and owners (so wonderful with our young children) and amazing pizzas.

“The chips are incredible with a fab choice of seasonings. The pizza menu offers great choices too. A really wonderful restaurant.”

The establishment clearly takes pride in serving authentic Neapolitan wood-fired pizza, featuring both traditional and contemporary styles.

According to TripAdvisor, this isn’t their sole achievement either; the compact yet impressive restaurant has secured the Best Pizzeria English Italian Awards in 2018, 2019 and 2022.

You’ll discover this delicious gem tucked away at 33-35 Duke Street, Darlington DL3 7RX. While there’s no dedicated car park on site, street parking is readily available, and it’s just a brief stroll from both Winston Street West Car Park and Abbott’s Yard Car Park.

Awards Director Warren Paul, discussing the launch of Italian Awards for 2026, expressed his delight in showcasing the efforts of “passionate people”.

He continued: “That’s why we do what we do. It’s to make sure the hard-working inspirational people and businesses get the recognition they deserve.

“Everyone jumps to criticise and leave a negative review or complaint over the tiniest thing, but very few rush to praise good service, food and experiences. That’s where we come in. So congratulations to our winners.”

Highly Recommended Pizzerias in the same category included:

  • Best Pizzeria Amico Mio (Clitheroe)
  • Best Pizzeria Osteria V2.0 (Shrewsbury)
  • Best Pizzeria Primavista Bury St Edmunds (Bury St Edmunds)
  • Best Pizzeria Scaramantica Pizzeria (Cardiff)

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Italy 2026 World Cup: Gabriele Gravina resigns as head of the Italian Football Federation

Gabriele Gravina has resigned as the head of Italy’s football association (FIGC) following their failure to qualify for a third consecutive World Cup.

The four-time world champions suffered another play-off final defeat when they were beaten 4-1 on penalties by Bosnia-Herzegovina on Tuesday.

No previous winner of the tournament has missed three World Cups in a row, which Italy now have after missing out on Russia in 2018 and Qatar 2022.

Also on Thursday, former goalkeeper Gianluigi Buffon, who was working closely with the men’s national team, resigned as delegation head via Instagram., external

Buffon, who was part of Italy’s 2006 World Cup-winning side, wrote that with Gravina’s decision to go, he felt, “as an act of responsibility”, he should do the same.

“The main objective was to bring Italy back to the World Cup. And we didn’t succeed,” Buffon, 48, added.

“It’s fair to leave it to those who will come after the freedom to choose the figure they think is best to play my role.”

Gravina, 72, who is the Uefa first vice-president, announced his resignation following a meeting held at the FIGC’s headquarters in Rome.

He took the job in October 2018, with his predecessor Carlo Tavecchio having stepped down following Italy’s failure to beat Sweden in a World Cup play-off the previous year.



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Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse paintings stolen from Italian museum

March 30 (UPI) — Thieves made off with millions of dollars worth of paintings by Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Matisse and Paul Cezanne in a heist last week at a private Italian museum, local authorities announced Monday.

The theft involved three paintings stolen from the Magnani-Rocca Foundation just south of Parma. The museum said the theft happened overnight March 22 into March 23.

The paintings were Les Poissons (The Fish) by Renoir, Still Life with Cherries by Cezanne and Odalisque on the Terrace by Matisse. All three artists were French

Renoir was a renowned leader of the Impressionist movement during the late 19th century, known for landscapes, figural paintings and still lifes. Cezanne, who worked around the same time as Renoir, was generally known as a Post-Impressionist whose interest in form and color would influence later Cubists and Fauves.

Working slightly later in the 19th century and early 20th century, Matisse was also considered a Post-Impressionist and an icon of the Fauvist movement.

All three artists were French.

“This is a loss that concerns the cultural heritage of all,” the foundation said in a statement posted to Facebook on Monday.

Italian public broadcaster Rai reported that the value of the three paintings was estimated to be just shy of $9 million, Sky News reported.

The museum said federal police were investigating the case.

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I visited the Italian ski resort that once hosted the Winter Olympics

HAVE you ever dreamed of becoming a famous Olympian?

It might be out of reach for most of us mere mortals.

I visited the Italian ski resort that once hosted the Winter Olympics – and you can pretend to be an Olympian yourselfCredit: Supplied
Club Med celebrated its 75th anniversary last yearCredit: Supplied

But at one resort in Italy, you can feel pretty close to it — especially if you’re skiing alongside one of Britain’s greatest Olympic snowboarders.

I joined two-time Winter Games star and World Cup winner Jamie Nicholls on the slopes of the dreamily named Milky Way (Via Lattea) ski area in the Italian Alps.

The snowy realm played host to the stars of the Turin Winter Olympics in 2006 and you can feel like a hero as you ski off from the original starting huts of the giant slalom or downhill black runs.

Remnants of the Games can be seen everywhere from the former bobsled track ­— a giant concrete cobra now disused and frozen in time ­— to the vertigo-inducing ski jump, as well as the downhill slopes.

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The main athletes’ village — now a four-star hotel — dominates the village of Sestriere, from where more than 400km of pistes stretch all the way to Montgenevre in France.

I was staying at a smaller former athletes village in Pragelato, which is now owned and run by the all-inclusive holiday giant, Club Med.

It is the company’s only village concept, with the many chalets housing 350 rooms and surrounding a main hotel building to give it a cosy feel.

Club Med celebrated its 75th anniversary last year and the mantra from its founder, Belgian Gerard Blitz, is: “The purpose of life is to be happy. The place to be happy is here. The time to be happy is now.”

The always smiling, helpful and friendly staff try their best to make this true every day.

Every evening, a show including music, dancing and theatre is performed for both children and adults in the main bar, and the partying goes on long into the night.

Sun man Alex WestCredit: Supplied
Every evening, a show including music, dancing and theatre is performed for both children and adults in the main barCredit: Supplied

Club Med was the original all-inclusive holiday company and packages include ski passes, ski lessons and all food and drink from a main ­buffet restaurant serving delicious local pasta, meats and cheeses, as well as a pizza trattoria and a fine dining option.

And what is exceptional about Club Med Pragelato is that it also has four restaurants on the mountain where you can eat out and drink for free as part of your package.

This means you can make the most of your day’s skiing as you don’t have to trek back to your hotel for lunch.

Olympian Jamie is a convert and regularly takes his family — wife Jenny and their two young daughters, Lily and Rosie.

He said: “It’s just very easy. You don’t have to think — everything is done for you.

“You drop the kids off at the kids’ club, they get them dressed, they get their ski boots on, they get them off to ski school . . .  it’s no faff for you.

“They really put the kids at ease. They’re very energetic, very fun, so it takes their mind off them leaving their parents.

“My eldest has always been a bit scared of doing stuff on her own, but they are really good at making sure that they feel happy and OK.

“They’re very flexible in terms of when you want to pick your kids up after ski school.

“You can go and eat lunch with them and then bring them back, or you could just leave them there the whole day at the kids’ club.

“For family holidays I’ve not experienced a better one.”

What is exceptional about Club Med Pragelato is that it also has four restaurants on the mountainCredit: Unknown

Access to the slopes is also simple — just a one-minute walk to the cable car up the mountain. The skiing at Pragelato offers everything from beginners to the most hardcore advanced.

Avalanche kits are also available for those who want to do some of the endless back-country woodland routes and mountain-top off-piste adventures.

Ski lessons are included for free and there is a kids’ club all day and in the evening so you can enjoy ­supper in peace.

And while the children are being entertained, the adults can slip off to the spa for a massage and to chill and repair tired limbs in the ­hammam steam bath and sauna.

With so much included, the price is definitely not cheap.

In fact, you might need some of that Olympic gold and silver to afford a family holiday here.

However, if you value the stress-free convenience, it’s definitely worth it.

Some of that Olympian spirit could even rub off on you and who knows, your dreams of becoming an Olympian might just come true.

GO: ITALIAN ALPS

GETTING / STAYING THERE: Seven nights all-inclusive at Club Med Pragelato Sestriere is from £2,005pp including all-inclusive food and drink, lift pass and ski lessons as well as flights from Gatwick on January 10, 2027 and transfers.

To book, go to clubmed.co.uk/r/pregelato-sestriere/w or call 03453 676767. 

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I doubled the fun on my Italian city break with two incredible cities, just a train ride apart

Why limit yourself to one beautiful, romantic Italian city when you can pack two into the same break and see, discover, enjoy and eat twice as much?

Italy has so many fascinating cities to explore and it’s incredibly easy to hop between them, and that’s exactly what I found out on a dual-destination interrail trip to Milan and Venice, reports Abby Wells

With its biannual fashion weeks and designer shops galore, Milan is known as the fashion capital of the world – and as something of a seasoned shopaholic, I was looking forward to discovering its glamorous side. Our base while in Milan was Avani Palazzo Moscova, a historic hotel in the Porta Nuova district that housed the city’s first railway station back in 1840.

Its rooms are chic and modern, with everything you need for a comfortable stay.

READ MORE: This champagne-soaked city is the perfect train-travel alternative to a Paris mini-break

How to cover the classic sights of Milan

A number of experiences can be booked through the hotel, helping to make your stay an unforgettable one. First up for us was a two-hour tour of the city in a vintage Fiat 500, during which our driver, Milan-born Federico, took us to places you wouldn’t normally see.

One hidden gem was Villa Invernizzi, a serene oasis in the middle of the bustling city where you can catch a glimpse of flamingos roaming in the gardens. It was great fun whizzing around with the car’s sunroof open, and a must to get a feel for the city.

The next day we had a personalised cosmetics experience at City Lab Cosmetics, where we got to make our own lipstick. Here experts help you discover a shade suited to your skin colour, and you get to choose the finish, formula, scent and even the shape of your lipstick, and see it being made from scratch in the lab – a unique experience.

Then, finally, we got to do some shopping, courtesy of an expert-led tour around some of Milan’s best vintage boutiques. It started with the bargain ones, where I picked up a gorgeous little black bag for five euros, before finishing in a more upmarket store filled with Chanel dresses and Gucci bags (sadly out of my price range).

All the sightseeing certainly helped me work up an appetite and the food I had in Milan was delicious. I mainly stuck to the Italian staples of pasta and risotto. Avani Palazzo Moscova’s restaurant specialised in fish, but our tiramisu, made at the table, was a particular highlight.

Another restaurant definitely worth a visit is Osteria del Gambero Rosso, barely a five-minute walk from the hotel and where the friendly atmosphere made for a really special evening.

Fitting Venice into the same trip

Then it was on to our next stop, Venice, a speedy and easy two-hour train ride away. We walked out of the station to a postcard-worthy view of the canal in all its glory, with gondolas and water taxis going up and down the waterways. It felt like walking onto a film set.

A short walk away was our hotel, Avani Rio Novo Venice, which is tucked away in a sought-after neighbourhood where Venetians actually live, away from the main tourist drag. Here I enjoyed kicking back and enjoying the views of the canal through my room’s floor-to-ceiling windows.

How to cover the classic sights of Venice

As it was my first time in Venice, a gondola ride was top of my hit list and it didn’t disappoint. Our gondolier was lovely, happily entertaining us with facts and answering all our questions. One top tip is to make sure you have cash on you, as it’ll often mean you pay a bit less – and the more of you there are, the cheaper it is. As in Milan, the Avani hotel here can book various experiences to show off the best of Venice.

First, we paid a visit to Lunardelli Venezia, a workshop specialising in making wooden furniture and objects. Here we saw the intricate processes behind creating the exceptional designs and also had a go at crafting a piece ourselves.

The hotel also arranged a water taxi to the interconnecting Murano islands, an area known for its glass-making workshops.

The one we visited even supplies beads for Milan Fashion Week. Here we learnt to make our own beads to take home as a one-of-a-kind souvenir. I couldn’t wait to wear mine on a necklace.

Another must-visit in Venice is St Mark’s Square and we made our way there through narrow alleys and over the historic Rialto Bridge, which crosses the Grand Canal at its narrowest point. Obviously popular, it was very busy, but getting to St Mark’s Square as the sun was setting had a magical feel.

Both of these iconic cities exceeded all my expectations, and the country’s excellent rail network makes city-hopping a smart option when planning your next Italian escape.

Booking the two breaks

Single rooms at Avani Palazzo Moscova Milan Hotel start from £205 per night. Standard rooms at Avani Rio Novo Venice Hotel start from £167 per night.

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Totally Med: exploring Menton, where the French and Italian rivieras meet | France holidays

‘It’s not France, it’s not Italy, it’s Menton.” The seaside town on the French-Italian border has changed identities many times in its history. It was the only town in France completely annexed by the Italians during the second world war, but has also belonged to the Grimaldis of Monaco, was part of the kingdom of Sardinia, and only became French after a public vote in 1860. Today, ignoring the colours of Il Tricolore and Le Tricolore, almost everything is painted in various shades of yellow, a celebration of the town’s reliance on its beloved lemon.

Mauro Colagreco, the chef at the spectacular Mirazur restaurant, a few steps from the border, takes me up into the hills to visit one of his lemon and citrus fruit suppliers. “You can eat the peel of a Menton lemon; it has a thick, sweet rind. You can eat the whole thing; it’s totally organic and very juicy.” Menton’s microclimate, its warm winters, terraced hills and sandy soil make it perfect for growing citrus fruit. “What’s particular to the Menton lemon is that it has a smile, a small curvy fold at one end,” says Colagreco, who uses them in his restaurant alongside exploring the possibilities of Star Ruby grapefruits, yuzu confit and kumquats.

A citrus fruit creation from last year’s Fête du Citron. Photograph: SOPA Images/LightRocket/Getty Images

This time of the year, late February and March, is called “yellow time”, owing to the lemons, daffodils and the mimosa on the hillside. It’s also the time of the Fête du Citron, a two-week festival with parades, giant floats and, this year, huge models of a whale, 12-metre-high parrots and entwined storks – all covered in citrus fruit. It was the 92nd iteration of the festival, but the Menton lemon is too expensive and rare to use, so all 123 tonnes of oranges and lemons now come from Spain (mostly) and Portugal.

In a perfect location to appreciate Menton’s two personalities is Luciano Fondrieschi, who runs R Bike Menton, a cycling shop on the promenade between the old town and the Italian border. He believes there’s a lot of lively competition between Italy and France in the town. Fondrieschi was a successful runner and triathlete in Italy and his shop is always full of French and Italians, looking over the racks of shoes, pedals and bikes and asking for advice.

“Menton is a French town with an Italian regard,” he tells me. “All the boats in the harbour are Italian.” However, looking around, most of the cars are French. Fondrieschi switches languages seamlessly in his repair shop. While we are chatting, a British couple come in, breathless but exuberant in their Lycra, having just completed a 36-mile (58km) round trip to Sanremo. They are followed by an Italian pensioner who had cycled up to Dolceacqua, 13 miles away, for a pizza lunch, and a couple from Luxembourg who want a puncture repaired before they set off for Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. “French people really just like speaking in French, but we [Italians] speak with our hands, so can talk to anyone!” says Fondrieschi. His in-store cafe offers a mix of brioches, rústico caprese, Italian aromatic cordials and café au lait.

A detail from Jean Cocteau’s Salle des Mariages mural in Menton. Photograph: Ivan Vdovin/Alamy

Like every town in France, Menton’s streets are named after the country’s authors, politicians and war heroes. But in Menton, for every avenue Pasteur, Victor Hugo and Général de Gaulle, there’s an avenue Cernuschi and Laurenti, a rue Pietra Scritta, Isola, Urbana, Pieta and Mattoni. There’s also a Square Victoria (the British queen stayed in Menton in 1882), avenue Blasco Ibáñez (the Spanish writer lived in a huge villa here in the 1920s) and avenue Katherine Mansfield (who stayed in the villa Isola Bella) – the last two linked by the rue Webb-Ellis.

William Webb Ellis, the schoolboy who supposedly invented the game of rugby when he picked up the ball in a school football match in 1823, became an Anglican vicar and moved to Menton in the 1860s, spending the last years of his life there. He is buried in the hilltop Vieux Château cemetery, a steep walk up from the old town, where his grave overlooks the sea, forever covered in rugby balls and club ties.

The grave of the English illustrator Aubrey Beardsley is even higher up the hill, in Trabuquet cemetery. He died aged 25 and is buried alongside many other young artists, writers and aristocrats who flocked to Menton at the end of the 19th century to cure their respiratory disorders and lose themselves in the town’s many botanical gardens.

Half a century later, France’s own master of pen and ink, Jean Cocteau, also turned up in Menton. In 1955, the mayor asked him to decorate the interior of the Salle des Mariages – a depiction of the myth of Orpheus and Eurydice with centaurs and a Menton marriage. A key is available at the town hall for visitors.

A hundred metres away is Allo Robert, a warehouse-emporium of French and Italian bric-a-brac, the kind of things couples had on their wedding lists 100 years ago. I found a light-up Tabac sign, cabinets packed with 1930s soda siphons, candlesticks and champagne buckets, Italian crockery and blue chairs from Nice’s promenade. It’s a dusty snapshot of Menton from the early 20th century – as it says on the sign outside: “de curiosités … et tutti quanti” (“curiosities … and so on”).

Stay at the seafront Hôtel Napoléon, which has a solar-heated pool; doubles from €106, napoleon-menton.com. Eat pizzas, vitello tonnato and flavoured burrata at Mauro Colagreco’s La Pecoranegra, pecoranegra.fr



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