Islamic

Mauritania’s female Islamic guides: Leading the fight against ‘extremism’ | News

Nouakchott, Mauritania – Across a vast stretch of the Sahel and West Africa, armed groups are expanding their reach, military governments are replacing fragile democracies, and “counterterrorism” efforts continue to contend with armed violence, often rooted in poverty and challenging living conditions.

While the Sahel has become synonymous with instability, tucked between the region and the Atlantic coast sits Mauritania, a country that has somehow managed to douse the flame. The explanation for this resilience often begins with a woman in a headscarf sitting across from a young man or a woman in a prison cell, talking about God.

Mauritania’s mourchidates are female Islamic spiritual guides, trained, certified, and deployed by the state under the Ministry of Islamic Affairs since 2021. They are not a new phenomenon, as the programme has its roots in Morocco.

Morocco’s mourchidates were introduced after the 2003 Casablanca bombings, a series of coordinated attacks in the Moroccan city that killed dozens and injured hundreds, as part of a broader religious reform.

Youssra Biare, a Moroccan researcher, states: “Morocco’s mourchidates offer one of the most established examples of women’s religious leadership as a tool for peace-building and preventing violent ‘extremism’.”

Since the programme’s launch in 2006, Morocco’s mourchidates have received formal theological and social training, which enables them to provide religious guidance and family counselling.

“Beyond their role in countering extremist narratives, they address the social and emotional factors that can make young people vulnerable to radicalisation,” Biare told Al Jazeera.

“For countries such as Mauritania, the Moroccan model demonstrates how investing in well-trained female religious leaders can strengthen community trust, promote moderate religious discourse, and create culturally grounded approaches to youth de-radicalisation and social cohesion.”

The mourchidates operate across schools, youth centres, mosques, hospitals, and, critically, prisons. They provide religious counsel grounded in mainstream Islamic scholarship, challenge the theological justifications that armed groups use, and offer a credible alternative to their narratives.

What makes the programme distinctive is the involvement of women with dedicated religious scholarship. More than social workers with a passing familiarity with Islamic texts, the mourchidates are trained in Quranic interpretation, Islamic jurisprudence, and the history of theological thought.

When they sit with detainees convinced that violence is a religious obligation, they can engage on their own terms and dismantle those arguments point by point.

Prison as a battleground for ideas

Prisons have long been recognised globally as sites of radicalisation, where recruitment networks operate. Mauritania, however, has pursued a different approach. Inside its prisons, mourchidates engage detainees linked to armed groups operating in the Sahel region, including those convicted of planning or participating in attacks across Mauritania, as well as those joining radicalised groups in neighbouring countries.

Their work goes beyond pastoral care to critically engage prison populations on an ideological level. They sit with these people over extended periods, building trust and addressing the theological arguments that justified violence, such as the belief that attacks on civilians could be sanctioned in the name of religion.

By patiently challenging these interpretations and offering alternative readings of Islamic texts, the mourchidates gradually open space for detainees to reconsider their choices.

De-radicalisation, when it works, tends to be built on relationships. The mourchidates, through their close ties to communities, are often well-placed to build these relationships in ways that male guards, military officials, or even male religious scholars are not always able to.

Mauritanian Mourshidat (female guides)
Mauritania stands out as a rare island of stability in West Africa’s fight against radicalism due to its use of female Islamic guides [Michelle Cattani/AFP]

A significant portion of what mourchidates do is preventive, operating in community spaces to reach young people before they become vulnerable to recruitment. Armed groups exploit unemployment, marginalisation, and legitimate grievances to draw young men and women to their cause, often using the language of faith.

Countering this radicalisation requires a coherent narrative more than a militaristic approach, and that is precisely what the mourchidates provide.

“One of the strengths of the Mauritanian model is that it understood early on that violent extremism cannot be addressed through security responses alone,” Aminata Dia, a Mauritanian founding member of Elles Du Sahel Network and the executive director of the nonprofit Malaama, told Al Jazeera.

“The country invested in prevention, religious dialogue and community trust-building, particularly through the mourchidates programme,” she said.

Yahia Elhoussein, a scholar who runs a maourchidate school in Nouakchott, told Al Jazeera that this approach works due to its credibility.

“The mourchidates were deployed by the Ministry of Islamic Affairs to different parts of the country, where they educated young people on the true teachings of Islam, such as tolerance, charity, and accountability, playing an important role in de-radicalisation without any use of force,” Elhoussein said.

Why Mauritania stands apart

The results, while difficult to quantify, are reflected in Mauritania’s regional trajectory. The country has not been immune to threats from armed groups, enduring attacks in the mid-to-late 2000s that pushed it to reassess its approach.

What followed was a comprehensive strategy combining intelligence, community engagement, religious reform, and programmes like the mourchidates. Since then, Mauritania has largely avoided the scale of attacks that have devastated its neighbours, such as Mali and Burkina Faso.

Security analysts point to Mauritania as a case study for a preventive model, investing in conditions that make radicalisation less likely rather than responding solely to violence. The mourchidates are central to that model.

Mauritanian Mourshidat (female guides)
Trained women volunteers travel throughout the country to homes, markets, mosques, prisons, and schools to raise awareness among the most vulnerable [Michelle Cattani/AFP]

None of this suggests that Mauritania has solved the problem, or that its approach is without limitations. The country faces governance challenges, while the broader Sahel region continues to experience expanding armed violence, poverty, displacement, and weak state presence, pressures that no single programme can fully address.

Critics note that the reach of the mourchidates, while meaningful, remains constrained by resources and scale.

There are also questions about how replicable this model is elsewhere. Morocco’s version has been partially adapted in other Muslim-majority countries, but conditions in Mauritania, a deeply religious society, such as respected female scholarship, credible state authority, and political will, make it unique.

In Burkina Faso, Mali, and Niger, replicating this model would require rebuilding trust between the state and the community, which appears to have eroded.

At a time when international counterterrorism policy in the Sahel is dominated by military presence, drone strikes, and external interventions, Mauritania’s experience offers a different lesson. Some of the most effective tools for preventing violent activism are not found in special forces and military operations but in trained women, armed with knowledge and patience.

“Mauritania’s mourchidates prove that community-based approaches can be more effective than any other approach,” said Elhoussein.

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World’s Best Islamic Financial Institutions 2026

Global Finance’s World’s Best IFI winners outperformed the sector in 2025, emphasizing innovation and AI adoption. But new Mideast conflicts pose new challenges.

Islamic financial institutions (IFIs) modestly improved their performance in 2025, recording an average Return on Average Assets of 2% and a 12% increase in total assets. This compares to 1.9% and 9%, respectively, in the prior year. The winners of Global Finance’s World’s Best Islamic Financial Institutions Awards all achieved above-average profitability and growth.

Digitalization and AI remain strong areas of focus and investment as IFIs seek to drive customer growth, increase financing assets and deposits, and strengthen their competitiveness against conventional banks. Retail banking remains the main pillar of most Islamic banks, but IFIs are strengthening their commercial banking delivery as well. Corporate finance, capital markets, and wealth management activities are also becoming increasingly important to the sector.

A relatively low cost of funds contributes to Islamic banks’ positive margins. The biggest of the group, which dominate their domestic markets, continue to outperform their rivals, reflecting funding advantages and cost efficiencies. 

The winners of Global Finance’s 2026 World’s Best Islamic Financial Institutions Awards have also distinguished themselves as innovative by introducing new Islamic banking products, consolidating their market share, improving service quality, and achieving good financial results. Collectively, they have shown themselves to be well managed with clear strategies. Like all Middle Eastern banks, however, they face a more challenging road ahead due to the new conflicts in the region, particularly the Iran war that’s disrupted the Persian Gulf.

This year’s top winner, Kuwait Finance House (KFH), enjoyed asset growth of 17% last year, to $139 billion, helping the bank maintain its position as the second-largest Islamic institution globally. KFH has the most diverse geographical reach of any IFI, with operations throughout the Middle East, Europe, and Asia. It has advanced its digital transformation by shifting from basic digitization to value-driven technology adoption.

Meanwhile, Boubyan Bank claimed Global Finance’s inaugural award as Most Innovative Islamic Bank. The bank stands apart for its innovation, technology-driven strategy, and strong commitment to offering financial solutions that enhance the customer experience. Boubyan made significant progress last year in embedding AI into services offered through its app.

Emirates Islamic Bank (EIB) took home the  Best Islamic Financial Institution in The Middle East. The bank notched 19% growth in net profit last year, to $910 million, driven by robust balance-sheet growth. Lending grew 26% over both retail and corporate banking. Supported by a sophisticated digital offering, EIB has seen its franchise strengthen through a wide range of Shariah-compliant pro-duct offerings.

Meet the Winners

Islamic Finance
GLOBAL WINNERS
Islamic Finance, Country Winners
REGIONAL AND COUNTRY WINNERS

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World’s Best Islamic Financial Institutions 2026: Country and Territory Winners

Home Awards Award Winners World’s Best Islamic Financial Institutions 2026: Country and Territory Winners

In 2026, Islamic financial institutions continue to demonstrate resilience, innovation, and regional impact.

Across the Middle East, Asia, and beyond, leaders are balancing robust growth with Shariah-compliant practices, setting new standards in both domestic and cross-border markets.

Institutions are harnessing digital transformation to deliver more efficient, accessible, and customer-focused banking, from mobile apps and AI-powered services to fully digitized payment and investment platforms. Their portfolios span retail, corporate, and wealth banking, while many are pioneering new products in sukuk, digital savings, and Shariah-compliant investment solutions.

Regional leaders are also championing financial inclusion, SME support, and sustainable initiatives, reflecting a commitment to both community development and responsible growth. Across markets, the combination of innovative technology, solid performance, and ethical finance is positioning these institutions as benchmarks of excellence in the global Islamic finance landscape.

Regional Winners

Bilal Parvaiz
Bilal Parvaiz, CEO

Asia-Pacific

SCS is a leading Islamic financial institution throughout Asia and particularly in Malaysia, Pakistan, Brunei, Singapore, and Indonesia, providing innovative solutions for Shariah-compliant financial needs. With the support of parent Standard Chartered Bank, it also provides access to the global banking and financial markets. SCS is active across corporate and investment banking, trade finance, wealth management, and retail and private banking as well as the sukuk market.


Farid Al Mulla
Farid Al Mulla, CEO

Middle East

EIB had a banner year in 2025, reporting net profit up 19% at 3.3 billion UAE dirhams ($899 billion), driven by robust balance-sheet growth and higher recoveries. Financing growth was 26% over the retail and corporate banking segments. Total income in retail banking and wealth management increased 14%, driven by increased customer liabilities and Islamic financing growth. Total income from corporate and institutional banking increased 15%. Supported by a sophisticated digital offering, EIB’s franchise has strengthened across a broad menu of Shariah-compliant products.

Country and Territory Winners

table visualization

Bahrain

Part of the KFH Group, KFH Bahrain continued to develop its domestic franchise last year; to focus more closely on the local Islamic market, it sold its stake in Oman’s Ahlibank. A signal achievement in 2025 was the successful, $400 billion Additional Tier 1 Sukuk offering, the largest of its kind ever in Kuwait. Also last year, KFH Bahrain launched the KFH Gold Account, Bahrain’s first digital gold investment and savings account. KFH’s MyHassad Savings Scheme is now the island kingdom’s largest prize-based savings product, with a record-breaking deposit portfolio of $675 million following 17% growth last year. The bank also completed its fully digitized Liquidity Management Solution in 2025.

Brunei Darussalam

Bank Islam Brunei Darussalam is the dominant bank in Islamic finance in Brunei Darussalam, with assets of $8.3 billion covering a range of Islamic SME and consumer financing products.

Egypt

A leading performer in Egypt’s Islamic banking sector, ADIB Egypt reported assets of $7.3 billion last year, up by 42% in US dollar terms, thanks to growing market share as net profit grew 25% to $256 million. ADIB Egypt offers retail and corporate banking services together with investment banking, leasing, asset management, and microfinance.

Indonesia

Indonesia’s first Islamic bank, founded in 1991, Bank Muamalat today holds total assets of $4 billion. It provides a comprehensive range of Shariah-compliant financial services and has pioneered many Islamic banking products in Indonesia.

Jordan

IIAB takes the title as 2026 Best IFI for Jordan thanks to a strong performance in 2025, significant digital progress, and a widening business reach. Growth was in double figures and assets now total some $6 billion. IIAB holds a 22% market share of Islamic assets in the kingdom. IIAB serves individuals, SMEs and large corporates, in addition to financing large projects. It has been an initiator of multiple domestic SME enablers, including the Kafalah Scheme, Jordan’s first Shariah-compliant finance guarantee scheme, and jointly organized the first Islamic funds mobilization with the Central Bank of Jordan, the Arab Fund, the World Bank, and other regional players.

IIAB’s digital banking services include a high-end mobile app that includes digital onboarding, seamless access to most of IIAB’s banking services, personal finance management, and third-party services via the bank’s ecosystem. IIAB is also an active AI adopter, embedding it at the core of its digital transformation to enhance customer experience, operational efficiency, and Shariah-complaint innovation.

Kuwait

Kuwait’s second-largest bank, KFH now controls over 60% of domestic Islamic banking assets and is by far the kingdom’s largest Islamic institution. It holds a 30% share of conventional and Islamic banking assets. Domestically, KFH dominates the Islamic financing and deposit market—and, in turn, has a strong presence in the overall banking sector for both deposits and financing/loans—as well as a strong positions in retail, private, and corporate banking.

Malaysia

Maybank Islamic, Malaysia’s flagship Islamic institution, is innovative, well managed, and over the long term, has recorded impressive performance. It is often first in introducing innovative Shariah-compliant financial products. In its home country, the bank controls around 30% of Islamic assets, but its activities extend across other Asian markets as well, making it the largest Islamic bank outside the Middle East and fifth-largest globally with $90 billion in assets. It also holds a prominent position in the global sukuk market. Maybank’s financial metrics are solid, with a strong capital base and good returns.

Morocco

Umnia Bank was Morocco’s first Islamic bank, established in 2017.  Shareholders include Qatar International Islamic Bank, CIH Bank (Credit Immobilier et Hotelier), and Caisse de Dépôt et de Gestion (CDG). Unmia operates the country’s largest Islamic banking network and is its largest by total assets, with around 50% market share in financings and 40% in deposits. Its main areas of financing are automobiles, real estate, and equipment finance.

Oman

With $5.2 billion in assets at the end of last year, Bank Nizwa is Oman’s seventh-largest bank, with a focus on innovation that has helped broaden its reach in its home market. Oman’s first digital Islamic bank, it remains focused on digital expansion.

Reinforcing its commitment to leveraging strategic partnerships, Bank Nizwa launched the Tranna app last year in collaboration with Zappit, a financial technology company. The app is designed for expatriates living and working in Oman, enabling instant transfers to six countries: India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Nepal, the Philippines, and Bangladesh. Also last year, Bank Nizwa launched its Electronic Mandate (E-Mandate) for Direct Debit service that streamlines recurring transactions and enhances the overall banking experience for corporate and retail customers.

Pakistan

Meezan Pakistan had a strong 2025, launching several new products. Totall deposits increase by 28% to $17.2 billion, aided by a large branch and ATM network and solid digital infrastructure.

Meezan continued to strengthen its digital offerings via WhatsApp Banking, a simple, secure, and accessible transactions channel, and its highly rated mobile app, which is recognized for its simplicity, speed, and reliability. The app expanded its user base 40% to over 4.3 million while financial transactions increased 40% to 553 million.

The bank offers one of the industry’s most comprehensive portfolios of debit cards, supported by advanced payment technologies including NFC-enabled payments, chip and PIN security, mobile-based contactless transactions, and 3D secure e-commerce payments.

Qatar

The emirate’s largest Islamic bank and its second-largest bank overall, QIB enjoys a strong franchise and market position, when ranked by total banking assets. QIB reported 2025 net profit of $1.3 billion as total assets reached $61 billion, as total assets rose to 10% to $61 billion, QIB is also active in the Islamic capital markets, including sukuk-related activities, structured financing, and transaction execution. QIB has significant government backing, with the Qatar Investment Authority its largest shareholder.

Saudi Arabia

Al Rajhi Bank is the world’s largest Islamic financial institution and Saudi Arabia’s flagship Islamic bank with $278 billion in total assets and $6.6 billion in net profit at the end of last year. It operates a strong retail banking network in its home market, particularly measured by deposits and income. It ranks first in banking transactions with 1 billion per month and first in remittances for the Middle East by payment value. Al Rajhi has 20.6 million customers in Saudi Arabia and the leading market share in deposits at 22.6%.  Financial metrics are good, particularly capital ratios with total CAR at 21.9% at the end of 2025 and ROAA of 2.4%.

Sri Lanka

Al-Adalah, Commercial Bank of Ceylon’s Islamic banking window, offers a diverse portfolio of innovative Shariah-compliant products. Assets grew 67% last year as the financing portfolio doubled. The bank also made a strategic pivot in 2025 toward SME financing and sustainable energy projects.

Turkey

KTKB is KFH’s Turkish subsidiary. The largest Islamic bank in Turkey and one of the country’s top 10 banks, its business model has proved resilient amid a challenging operating environment. Commanding a 34% market share in Turkish Islamic banking, it also operates an Islamic bank in Germany under the name KT Bank AG as well as a Bahrain office that serves as a bridge between Turkey and the Gulf Cooperation Council states.

United Arab Emirates

EIB’s market position grew significantly in 2025 as assets increased 30% to $39.7 billion and deposits grew 33%, bolstered by a strong balance sheet and strong capital and liquidity position. The third-largest Islamic bank in the UAE, EIB has been improving its digital infrastructure and increasing its AI utilization. It has expanded its wealth management services and products, becoming the first Islamic bank in the UAE to launch a Shariah-compliant digital wealth offering and equity trading via mobile banking app.

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‘I have to protect them’: The man guarding Mauritania’s rare Islamic books | Arts and Culture

Chinguetti, Mauritania – Bookkeeper Muhammad Gholam el-Habot gently pulled a pair of white gloves onto his slender hands and set about his routine in his high-ceilinged, cool library lined with steel bookshelves.

He opened a thick manuscript printed in Arabic. After leafing through its brown and frail pages, looking for damage, el-Habot closed the book with a satisfied thud, rubbed his fingers over the wrinkled leather cover, and carefully placed it in a white cardboard box.

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“These books are very important to my family and me,” the librarian said, as the midday sunlight spilled in through open wooden doors. He spoke in Hassaniya Arabic, the dialect spoken in Mauritania, his voice low, his sentences halting and poetic. Fat flies buzzed around his long oval face as he worked.

“My relationship with them is like that of a father and his son,” he continued. “We must protect them until God takes the land and all the people who are on the land.”

The el-Habot family library is only one of a handful of its kind still operating in Chinguetti, a medieval fortress town or ksar in Mauritania’s northern Adrar region. Once a centre of commerce and Islamic learning between the 13th and 17th centuries, it is now largely abandoned as, over the decades, locals have sought opportunities in bigger cities.

Chinguetti old town
A view of the old town of Chinguetti, which follows typical Moorish structures with a mosque at the centre [Shola Lawal/Al Jazeera]

Chinguetti is also at the mercy of a changing climate.

Mauritania, in northwest Africa, is 90 percent Sahara desert and has faced desertification for centuries. Now, human-induced climate change is an accelerant. Sand and flash storms occur more frequently, while extreme hot or cold seasons last longer than usual.

Those pressures are a “big deal” for precious books, said Andrew Bishop, a researcher at the University of Wyoming studying climate impacts on Saharan cultures.

“Extreme heat and less predictable rainfall patterns means that texts are increasingly damaged by water or heat, making many manuscripts beyond repair. More than that, the mud libraries themselves are not built for sudden rain and longer summer of over 40 degrees (Celsius, or 104 degrees Fahrenheit),” he told Al Jazeera.

Many of Chinguetti’s 4,500 residents now live in cement buildings outside the original confines of the abandoned ksar, built out of dry stone and red mudbrick. There are fears that the entire area, which is about 500 square kilometres (200 square miles) – about the size of Prague – is at risk of being buried by surrounding sand dunes in the long run, although there is not a clear timeline yet.

Rare manuscripts
Rare manuscripts shown in one of Chinguetti’s last libraries [Logan Stayton/University of Wyoming]

Islam’s ‘seventh holiest city’

El-Habot did not always want to be a bookkeeper.

But when his father grew sick in 2002, he took over the approximately 1,400 manuscripts out of obligation. It was an honour in his culture to be selected, he said.

It would be out of the question now, the 50-year-old librarian said. He imagines that his two sons would reject the duty, as many of their peers have left to explore economic opportunities in the capital city, Nouakchott, or elsewhere.

“This is something that we have to do; it is a family obligation,” el-Habot said, with a bewildered expression. “This is not even a question to be asked.”

The family manuscripts are sacred because they are rare. The bookkeeper’s ancestor, Sidi Mohamed Ould Habot, was one of about two dozen Chinguetti scholars who travelled around the Muslim world between the 18th and 19th centuries, from Egypt to Andalusia, in search of knowledge.

Between them, the scholars amassed a vast fortune of about 6,000 scripts. They covered almost every topic: Islamic jurisprudence, the hadith or teachings of the Prophet Muhammad, mathematics, medicine, and poetry. Some of the works came from the scholars themselves, including the older el-Habot, who wrote about the science of poems.

The books were stored in about 30 libraries in Chinguetti, open to people from all over the world.

At the time, the town was famous because of its location at the crossroads of trans-Saharan trade routes linking the Sahel and the Maghreb. Camel caravans guided by nomadic Berber traders transporting goods – mostly salt and gold – between northern Africa and the southern empires used the city as a way station, transforming it into a commercial hub.

Muslim pilgrims on their way to Mecca on foot or camel would gather in Chinguetti and prepare themselves spiritually and mentally for their long, difficult journey before heading on to Cairo. Islamic and scientific texts were exchanged, bought and sold in the town.

In West African lore, Chinguetti was referred to as Islam’s seventh holiest city. Others nicknamed it the “Sorbonne of the Sahara”, according to UNESCO.

Rare manuscripts
Some of the old texts stored in the el-Habot family library. The family has a total of about 1,400 books in its care [Logan Stayton/University of Wyoming]

Generation after generation managed the libraries. Over time, as the caravan trade declined due to new European sea routes, the old town emptied and several libraries closed.

“Chinguetti was the mother of all people,” el-Habot said, referring to the town’s old status as the main capital of the region. Indeed, the area now known as Mauritania was called “Bilad Shinqit” or Land of Chinguetti. In the local Soninke language, it translates to “spring of horses”.

“People had to go because they wanted to feed themselves, get education for their kids, and get better opportunities for themselves too,” el-Habot said, adding that there were no universities close by, and only a handful of primary and middle schools.

Some within his family have moved on, as well, the bookkeeper said. Those, like him, who stayed back, wanted to respect their ancestor’s three wishes.

“His wishes were that the library stay in Chinguetti, that it should be open to all seekers of knowledge, and that a male descendant of his who is religious and morally upright be the bookkeeper,” el-Habot explained. Not following those instructions, he said, could invite God’s anger.

Chinguetti’s decline is largely due to the lack of support for its traditional lifestyle, Bishop said. Annual rainfall in Mauritania has decreased by 35 percent since 1970, making it harder for herders to graze or for date palms to produce fruit.

In 1996, UNESCO granted Chinguetti and three other Mauritanian ksour World Heritage Status, cementing their rich legacy. The few people still living in the old town are allowed to renovate but only minimally, to keep its original stone architecture and the typical Moorish structuring where houses are lined up along narrow alleys that lead to a mosque with a square minaret.

Just outside Chinguetti are the excavated ruins of Abweir, a town of 25,000 believed to have been founded in 777 AD, and believed to be the “original” Chinguetti. Its residents moved from the settlement, locals believe, in 1264 – likely after a conflict. Over time, the area was completely swallowed by sand.

El Habot stands inside the library
Bookkeeper el-Habot stands inside the family library on a recent weekday [Shola Lawal]

Saving the manuscripts

El-Habot’s job, while enjoyable much of the time, is also taxing, he admitted.

Preserving old books by reprinting or digitising the most worn-out manuscripts before they become unreadable is a costly process. He often needs chemicals to keep away book-eating insects and has to fund more suitable storage.

Then, there is the weather, which is out of his control. Mauritania swelters in the dry season between April and December, and is bitingly cold in the winter months that follow. Old pages are sensitive to both extremes and can become brittle, el-Habot said. Sometimes, when it is really hot, he places buckets of water around the library hall to spur humidity.

Flash floods, meanwhile, threaten water damage.

Escavated mosque of Abweir
An excavated mosque of Abweir, just outside Chinguetti, stands next to a sand dune. The settlement was believed to be the ‘original’ Chinguetti before residents moved for unclear reasons [Shola Lawal/Al Jazeera]

Visitors to the library usually pay a small fee, but tourist numbers dropped drastically across Mauritania in the mid-2000s, when armed groups attacked foreigners. The COVID-19 pandemic also reduced the flow of travellers.

Mauritania has since clamped down on violence. Tourists are slowly coming back, el-Habot said, and some of the locals who left have also returned.

In 2024, a $100,000 UNESCO restoration project provided air-conditioning units, computers and printers, as well as shelving units and storage boxes to 13 family libraries to stimulate the sector. But most libraries remain closed, their texts scattered among members. The lack of capacity of young people who are not as interested in preserving Chinguetti’s culture will continue to pose a challenge, Bishop said.

Chinguetti
A section of old Chinguetti shows the stone masonry used at the time [Shola Lawal/Al Jazeera]

Back in the library, el-Habot continued working, his thin frame bent over his manuscripts. He opened one book and pointed excitedly at its pages: They depicted the moon in its luteal phases, and an eclipse. A third page showed the holy cities of Mecca and Madina.

“I have to protect this heritage,” el-Habot said in his low voice. “As mine, and also for all of humanity.”

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