invented

HOT cross buns; sticky, sweet, delicious and a sign that Easter is on its way – but where did the original bun come from?

Ironically, the origins are in my stomping ground of St Albans, so I went to see where it all began – and you can still buy a classic bun now.

In trying times, nothing quite provides comfort like a freshly-baked bun.

That was certainly Brother Thomas Rocliffe’s thinking when he handed
out his humble creation to the poor and disgruntled townspeople of St.
Albans back in 1361, a couple of decades before the Peasant Revolt.

The 14th century monk had just invented a treat that would become a
symbol of Easter for hundreds of years to come: the hot cross bun.

Back then, it was known as the Alban bun.

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The original recipe relied on a traditional bread dough, laced with exotic spices and dried fruit, which was then rolled into balls and scored with a cross symbol ahead of baking.

Today, the buns we see in supermarkets feature a piped cross, not
scored, and they are a little more sweet and cake-like in flavour,
relying primarily on cinnamon for spice.

If you’re keen to sample the traditional version, though, Brother
Thomas’ original recipe is still being baked today within the same
centuries-old walls of St Albans Cathedral, where it was first
concocted.

The ingredients are a secret, of course, but those heading down this
Easter may be lucky enough to uncover them with the help of one of the
cathedral’s expertly knowledgeable guides.

“How much did Rocliffe charge?” my guide asks me. “One a penny? Two a penny?”

The answer is still unknown – but just shy of a fiver seems more apt in these times, I tell him.

These buns weren’t just for Easter in Rocliffe’s era. In fact, in the
mid-1500s they became an emblem of protection and soared in
popularity.

Everyday folk would buy them year round and nail them to
their doors under the belief that it would stop their houses from
burning down.

Queen Elizabeth I was not amused by such superstitions, though, so
banned the sale of the hot cross bun (it’s colloquial name by this
point) on all dates except for Christmas, funerals and, of course,
Good Friday.

Traditions change over time and now most of the local bakeries in St
Albans sell the treat at Easter only, including the cathedral’s
Abbot’s Kitchen.

Head baker Graca whips up a whopping 120 of these buns a day at this
time of year and locals will order in batches – a sign that they’re
still adored in these parts.

Round, fluffy and fresh out of the oven, the original Alban Bun is definitely a massive step above the supermarket variations.

I love its breadlike flavour and whack of cardamom. The
fact that it’s not overly sweet means you can eat three in a row –
what a win.

After tucking into them, make sure to explore the rest of the cathedral.

Daily tours are thoroughly fascinating – and completely free, although
donations are heavily relied upon, so don’t forget to pop some cash in
the box on your way out.

If you’re looking for even more historic fun to sink your teeth into,
the city’s Verulamium Park is brimming with Roman history and the
remains of old, slightly battered walls can still be seen as you
wander among the greenery.

Make sure to detour for a stroll along the River Ver, too, one of few
remaining chalk rivers in the UK.

Then you can reward your efforts with a pint at one of the many cute and quirky pubs.

St Albans is reportedly home to more pubs per square mile than any other city in the UK, so it would be rude not to sample its tipples.

The Boot, in the city centre serves proper ales alongside its Mexican
themed food menu, meanwhile Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, at the foot of the
cathedral’s hill, claims to be one of the oldest boozers in the
country and has a lovely pub terrace.

I wonder if Brother Thomas ever sunk a few in here.

Here’s where you’ll find the best buns in St Albans…

St. Albans is not short of excellent bakeries and in the name of good
journalism I made sure to try them all.

Here’s two of my other picks.

Proto Artisan Bakery
Sticky on the outside, with a glossy glaze, and fluffy on the inside, these buns look more akin to the ones you see in the shops, but are ten times more flavourful.

Baked fresh everyday, they are crammed with a great amount and variety of dried fruit and soft and light in texture, it needs nothing more than a slab of butter.

Glaze Bakery
A minutes’ walk from the cathedral’s entrance, this bun
is as delicious as the above.

The cross is not piped, but made from laminated dough that puffs up in the oven. The shiny crust is sprinkled with sugar crystals. Owner Oli recommends toasting it and eating with Marmite.
BLOB: See enjoystalbans.com or visit @enjoystalbans on social media.

For more on Hertfordshire, this beautiful English village is home to one of Britain’s best pubs.

And here are our favourite British beer gardens with some in cosy villages, and Cotswolds pubs.

IF YOU told me there was a place that had the streets of Paris but in England, I wouldn’t believe you.

But there is, and after years of living in London, New York and Los Angeles, I decided to move back to the storied cosmopolis that is Canterbury.

Canterbury has just been named the best small city in the UK by The Telegraph, and it isn’t hard to see why.

With a wealth of glorious green spaces, museums, ‘traditional meets trendy’ pubs, inviting restaurants and unique shops, the UNESCO World Heritage Site city in The Garden of England leaves me with a grateful heart.

I first fell in love with its cobbled, meandering streets and willowy riverbank walks as a student at the university here in the 1990s, where I met my husband.

When we finally decided it was time to bring our family home to the UK after two decades living in the US, there was only one place on our list.

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And three years after our return, I still get a buzz walking past the hodgepodge of medieval taverns and churches immortalised in the novels of one of the city’s biggest fans, Charles Dickens.

Here’s my insider guide to get the best out of this glorious city, whether you’re coming for the day or a week.

Canterbury technically invented tourism when it started making the most of the martyrdom of Saint Thomas Becket, who was murdered in the cathedral in 1170, encouraging people to travel to the site for miracles and blessings, and stay for the fine ale and feasts.

Today, the UK’s oldest cathedral and the Mother Church of the worldwide Anglican community, is still a beautiful place to spend a peaceful few hours.

You can admire the breathtaking stained-glass windows, gawp at the tombs of The Black Prince and Henry IV, or explore the wildflower gardens that surround the Gothic cloisters.

And with the first female archbishop in the cathedral’s 1400-year history being enthroned this month, there’s never been a more meaningful time to visit.

Tickets start from £18 per person and include exhibitions, mini talks and activity trails.

Under 18s can go free when accompanied by one paying adult (max two children per adult).

Social media had recently been alive with comparisons between Canterbury and Paris, thanks to both cities’ abundance of pavement cafes and tree-lined streets.

The cities are only being 177 miles apart and my car even picks up French radio stations.

“For me, Canterbury feels like a tiny English version of a Paris arrondissement… a storybook full of historic wonders,” agreed my friend Marie, a Parisian who has called Canterbury home for the last five years.

“I fell in love with its quirky tea rooms, independent boutiques, traditional
pubs and cathedral bells.

“Plus, this place has really friendly locals, who are way more welcoming and laid-back than the people you will find in most French cities!”

For the best of France right here in England, wander The King’s Mile and pop to local gourmands for sweet treats, including Madame Oiseau Chocolatiers for handmade truffles.

Or head into Café Turquoise for delicately fragrant macaroons, and there’s A. T. Patisserie as well, which has inventive eclairs that make your mouth scream hallelujah.

Our shopping definitely compares in originality to the greatest global metropolises.

From the rare gems waiting to be discovered in the infamously wonky and haunted Crooked House Bookshop (where every penny made goes to support a local charity, Catching Lives), to the made-and-glazed-onsite teapots designed by a husband-and-wife team in Canterbury Pottery.

Another spot worth exploring is The Goods Shed – an indoor farmer’s market which boasts farm-fresh soups and stews.

Thanks to Canterbury having the UK’s biggest student-to-resident ratio, the vintage shops are abundant and full of quirky finds.

Check out the Cathedral Quarter’s Superstore, Retro Remix and Karma too.

You’ll leave with a head full of history and a bag full of pre-loved treasures for much less than you’d pay in a bigger city.

Spring is the perfect time to visit, thanks to its plethora of free parks and gardens.

Toddler’s Cove is an action-packed mecca for the under-eight-year-olds, which is just along from Westgate Gardens, with its award-winning flower displays and views of 12th-century towers – the oldest surviving gateway in the country.

Inside the towers is now a museum, escape room and a kid-friendly restaurant called The Pound (don’t miss the spicy chicken
sandwich).

Entrance to the old gaol (jail) museum is free with every meal.

After people-watching on the patio, walk past the controversial new statue of a drowning Ophelia (Shakespeare was inspired to write her character after being transfixed with a similar local scandal).

It is next to The Guildhall – where a young Mozart performed – which houses a great coffee shop.

You can also jump onboard a chauffeured punt for a dreamy historic tour
along the River Stour.

Back on dry land, head to local boy Orlando Bloom’s favourite restaurant, Café des Amies, which serves the best Tex-Mex I’ve ever tasted (and I lived in Austin for seven years).

If you’re up for more action, rent your own paddleboard or kayak from Canoe Wild for a sunset paddle along the river to gaze upon the resident beavers (from £40 per person).

The brand-new Canterbury Tales Experience is a state-of-the-art interactive, immersive journey through the stories of Geoffrey Chaucer – with holograms and actors, sounds and smells of the 13th century.

The experience ends up in a pub too, where you can meet the Father of English Literature himself.

A family ticket for two adults, three kids costs £60.

Other cultural must-dos include the Roman Museum, which gives a family
friendly insight into life in Roman Britain, built around the remains of an original Roman

Another option is Town House, which is complete with stunning mosaics (Adults, £11; children £5.50) and the free Beaney House of Art & Knowledge, which hosts workshops, art shows and exhibitions for all ages throughout the year.

It is also the home of a few of Canterbury’s most beloved fictional characters, including Rupert the Bear and Bagpuss.

For more cities to explore in the UK, here’s the UK’s smallest city with a pretty high street and 26 nearby beaches.

Plus, our expert picks for UK staycation trips to banish post-summer blues – including free hidden gems for kids & £1.50 meals.