India

Farmers in northern India are dressing up in bear costumes to protect their crops from monkeys. The unconventional strategy comes as residents complain of hundreds of monkeys raiding homes and farmlands.

Kathdhara village is a riot of colour as the early evening light turns the clouds the rosy hue of Himalayan salt. Bright red chillies lie drying in front of cornflower blue doorways. The pink of a sari and the orange of marigolds pop against a backdrop of verdant terraced fields, where cabbages grow in perfect rows like a picture from a Peter Rabbit book.

Just 22 families live in this remote hamlet in Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, north-east India. As we stroll with our guide, Deepak, taking in views of the layered hills and soaring, snow-capped Panchachuli peaks beyond, we are welcomed by villagers tending homes and gardens, strings of Diwali fairy lights adding extra sparkle to the scene.

I’m here to explore the foothills of the Himalayas and sample village life on a walking holiday with Village Ways, a pioneer of responsible, community-based tourism in India, which is celebrating its 21st anniversary this year. Dreamed up by Manisha and Himanshu Pande, the couple who run the Khali Estate, a small hotel in the reserve, the goal is to help address urban migration and support traditional rural life through low-impact tourism. Village Ways launched in 2005 with just five villages in the reserve, which guests hike between, and now more than 30 villages are involved in different parts of the country, from Madhya Pradesh to Kerala.

“The idea was to bring the community together to run something collectively, training people in all aspects of business. Everyone has a role to play,” says Manisha. “The Village Ways model has captured the attention of the government, too, and we’re collaborating on various projects in other states now, which is exciting.”

Most accommodation is in small, village-built guesthouses sleeping up to eight, rather than homestays, and money is evenly distributed to everyone from cleaners to porters, with committees making joint decisions. Back at the Kathdhara guesthouse, we join Diwali celebrations, sharing sweets, lighting lamps and praying to the goddess Lakshmi by a makeshift shrine. We feast on a delicious thali – spicy yams, dal, hemp chutney and warm roti – and sleep soundly, cocooned by the silence of the mountains.

The next day brings blue skies, and after breakfast we set out on a gentle walk to the neighbouring Gonap village. Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary was created in 1988, a 47 sq km (18 sq mile) area to help protect the broadleaf oak forest and wildlife. For the people living here, it altered their relationship with the forest, ending tree felling and hunting – tempting many to abandon village life for the cities. Village Ways offered an alternative – former hunters turned guides, sharing knowledge of the land and wildlife with guests, and seeing outsiders’ interest in local customs and traditions renewed their sense of pride.

We hike through pristine pine, oak and rhododendron forests (come in March or April to see the land painted red, pink and white when they bloom). I’m fascinated by the Himalayan oaks, which play a key role in storing and releasing water and stabilising the land with their vast root networks. We see the bright red flowers of wild turmeric and countless medicinal plants, from goat weed (some believe the juice stops bleeding) to Indian tobacco (used for toothache).

Leopards roam here too and, though they remain elusive, we spy footprints and scat, as well as porcupine quills. But the sanctuary is best known for its amazing birdlife – more than 200 species are found here – and we stop frequently as Deepak points out the crested serpent eagle, leaf warbler, black-headed jay and noisy parakeets.

Gonap itself is tiny – home to just seven families today. We’re welcomed to the guesthouse with chai and plates of warm pakora – enjoyed with staggering mountain views as Eurasian griffon vultures float on the thermals. Deepak leads us to a tiny temple, past houses with gardens heaving with jumbo lemons and air potatoes on giant stalks, the sounds of cicadas in the air.

No roads connect the five villages in the Binsar circuit, but the paths between them offer easy walking and there’s plenty of time to rest. A higher-altitude route in the nearby Saryu and Pindar valleys, close to the border with Tibet, offers more challenging hikes. But limited time means we head back to the Khali Estate from Gonap, stopping at Zero Point lookout – the highest vantage spot in the reserve, at 2,500 metres – to gawp at the 360-degree Himalayan panorama, dominated by Nanda Devi, the second highest mountain in India.

Built 150 years ago by a British commissioner, Gen Sir Henry Ramsay, the Khali Estate makes a picturesque base, with accommodation in stone rondavel cabins and a sitting room with roaring fire. During his time in Kumaon, Ramsay is credited with developing local infrastructure, founding a leper colony in the historical capital of the region, Almora, and regulating tree felling. We delve into the estate’s history on a tour with Himanshu, poring over photos and library texts, and learn how it was also a retreat for the Nehru family and an ashram for Mahatma Gandhi. Surrounded by forest, it’s utterly peaceful. Later, I fall asleep to the distant sound of barking deer.

For visitors wanting to learn more about the region’s history and the characters who shaped it, Village Ways has launched a new itinerary, Khali in Kumaon. As well as the Binsar walks, it takes in the lakeside hill station of Nainital, where we had stopped on the 270-mile journey from Delhi. Guests will also explore Almora, with its local primary school supported by Village Ways, the museum of the Anglo-Indian hunter turned conservationist Jim Corbett, and the Gandhi trail, heading into the hills to see some of the first looms he established for homespun cotton – a symbol of economic independence and resistance to British rule – at Anasakti ashram.

But our last day is very much focused on the present, as a stream of villagers arrive at Khali from far and wide to join the anniversary celebrations. Other Village Ways founders – Brits who worked in development and tourism – are here too, and there are talks, feasting and dancing. I learn about the Village Ways charitable trust, which supports healthcare in these remote villages, training local women to run mobile clinics. Since Village Ways’ inception, it has hosted 7,000 guests, benefiting about 5,000 people, from artists to taxi drivers, according to Manisha, and 470 villagers are directly involved in decision-making as members of the village tourism committees in six states.

I buy locally made scarves and handicrafts, and many of the young villagers – now guides, cooks or porters – tell me about the positive impact tourism has had on their lives. “Since I joined as a guide three years ago I’ve learned lots about Binsar and our birds – and my English has really improved,” said 23-year-old Ashirwad Joshi from Dalar village. “I’m very happy to be part of it and share my knowledge with visitors – it makes me proud.”

When we leave the next morning for the long drive to Kathgodam and onward train journey to Delhi, it’s the feeling of mutual respect and warmth that stays with me. The challenges are many, from ageing village populations to a decline in international visitor numbers to the area since Covid, but the Village Ways mission is very much full steam ahead – taking its ethos to other parts of the country. This type of tourism – one that involves communities as partners and is collaborative rather than exploitative – benefits locals and travellers alike. In these times of division, it is to be celebrated more than ever.

The trip was provided by Village Ways, which creates bespoke itineraries, tailored to travellers’ interests. The suggested 10-day Khali in Kumaon itinerary (available until 30 May, and from 15 September to 30 November 2026) costs from £1,315pp, based on a party of four, including transfers, rail travel, accommodation and most meals

The 13th-century National Trust castle features the UK’s largest private collection of South and East Asian artefacts and Britain’s best baroque terraced gardens

Nestled close to the English-Welsh border, in the town of Welshpool, stands a genuine fairy-tale fortress which appears straight out of a storybook and provides a vibrant splash of colour against its sprawling green backdrop.

Built in the 13th century, this mediaeval stronghold is brimming with stories and continues to evolve, much to the delight of those who visit.

For the perfect day spent appreciating historic architecture, discovering a different heritage and exploring the most spectacular of gardens, Powis Castle is the destination to seek out.

Its most recent ownership belonged to the same family, who resided in the castle from as early as the 1570s – the Herbert family. This continued until the castle and its grounds were handed over to the National Trust in 1952 by the 4th Earl of Powis.

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One TripAdvisor reviewer said: “This site is stunning. I was blown away by how picturesque the place is.”

Another wrote: “This place really exceeded my expectations. The interior is super detailed and interesting, with some spectacular pieces of furniture.

“The gardens are truly beautiful on a lovely warm hillside and some stupendous giant yew trees. Has to be seen.”

History

The heritage of this fortress stretches back hundreds of years, encompassing numerous owners, as the property expanded and transformed, whilst preserving its original character throughout.

However, it all started in the 13th century when a Welsh prince, Gruffudd ap Gwenwynwyn, established some independence. When he and the remainder of his direct lineage died in 1309, leaving no male heir, the castle passed to an heiress called Hawise. She then married Sir John Charlton from Shropshire.

The fortress came under attack during this period from Hawise’s uncle, who was trying to claim the lordship he believed he was entitled to instead of her, but was unsuccessful.

In response, they chose to repair the damage and constructed two imposing drum towers on either side of the castle’s west entrance. Charlton’s descendants remarkably remained lords of Powis for more than 100 years, until no male heir could be found.

Consequently, in 1421, the castle was split between two daughters, after which the fortress entered a sharp decline, desperately needing restoration following years of abandonment. Before long, it was taken over and lovingly rebuilt before being leased to the Herbert family.

Most significantly since that time, one of the most substantial changes occurred when the Clive family introduced what is now recognised as the Clive collection. A collection teeming with South and East Asian artefacts exhibited in the castle, and the largest private collection of its kind in Britain.

Clive Collection

What makes this fortress particularly unique is its fascinating array of artefacts housed within it. Originally assembled by two generations of the Clive family, comprising Robert and his son Edward, who had wed Henrietta Herbert, the daughter of the 1st Earl of Powis.

The collection was assembled during Britain’s colonial rule of India, when these artefacts were removed from their country of origin and brought to the castle, starting in the 1800s. Today it houses more than 1,000 pieces originating from South and East Asia.

According to its website, visitors can expect to discover an extensive array of ivories, textiles, statues of Hindu deities, decorative silver and gold, weapons and ceremonial armour.

Naturally, this remarkable collection carries with it a troubling past, one which connects the castle to a proprietor who played a role in the invasion of India. Robert Clive was directly employed by the East India Company, which sent armies to both invade and subjugate India.

In doing so, they exploited the nation financially and profited from the natural resources it possessed. This contributed to establishing the British Empire’s presence within India and, consequently, secured a lifetime of riches and prosperity for Clive, which is evident in the castle’s magnificence.

Gardens

Beyond the striking castle itself, the true highlight of the estate lies in its grounds and immaculately-maintained gardens. Part of its impressive display of flowers, plants and trees is attributed to the captivating hedging that encircles the castle.

It covers up to 8,500 square metres of the estate, with the yett, tumps and top terrace contributing an extra 7,000 square metres to that figure. And with this comes some extreme-gardening methods adopted by the National Trust to guarantee it stays in impeccable condition.

To put that into perspective, it states that one skilled gardener can spend up to 10 weeks annually working at height, using a hydraulic cherry picker to trim and sculpt the towering hedges. That represents just one element of these magnificent gardens.

What makes them particularly remarkable is their Italian-influenced design dating back to 1680. The gardens at Powis Castle are regarded as the finest surviving example of a baroque terraced garden in the entire country – blending both Italian and French influences.

Without a National Trust membership, it costs £18 for entry to the castle and gardens for an adult, excluding gift aid. Meanwhile, children will be charged £9, while families can choose a family ticket for a reduced price.

It’s worth noting that ticket prices are reduced during off-peak periods of the year.

Frustrated players say they were left in the dark for days over their travel while England flew out within two days.

Cricket’s governing body has rejected suggestions of unequal treatment after the West Indies and South Africa squads were stranded in India for more than a week following their exit from the T20 World Cup, while England flew out in less than two days.

The International Cricket Council (ICC) has been accused of giving preferential treatment to one team over the other two amid the travel chaos resulting from airspace closures and rerouted flights because of the war in the Middle East.

However, the ICC said on Wednesday it “rejects any suggestion that these decisions have been driven by anything other than safety, feasibility and welfare”.

“We understand that players, coaches, support staff and their families who have completed their ICC Men’s T20 World Cup 2026 campaigns are anxious to return home,” it said in a statement.

Cricket West Indies said on Tuesday its squad had waited nine days for a charter flight that was “repeatedly delayed”, calling the uncertainty “increasingly distressing”.

West Indies ‌players were leaving India on commercial flights in batches 10 days after their scheduled departure, which led to frustrated players airing their thoughts in social media posts.

The ICC said nine West Indies players and staff members were already travelling to the Caribbean, with the remaining 16 booked on flights departing India within 24 hours.

Indian media reported that a charter flight for the West Indies and South ⁠Africa Twenty20 World Cup teams scheduled to fly to Johannesburg before continuing on to Antigua was cancelled earlier on Tuesday.

Meanwhile, South Africa, who have been stranded in ⁠India since March 4, will begin to fly home on Wednesday, with the entire contingent ⁠departing in the next 36 hours, the ICC said.

England flew home ‌less than two days after being beaten in the semifinals, prompting criticism of the ICC from the South African and West Indian camps.

Darren Sammy, head coach of West Indies, began venting his frustration on social media on the fifth day since his team’s exit from the T20 World Cup.

“I just wanna go home,” he wrote on X, followed by another tweet requesting an update after being left in the dark for five days.

Three days after South Africa were knocked out, in the first semifinal, their players Quinton De Kock and David Miller said the team had heard nothing from the ICC regarding their departure while England, who were eliminated a day later in the second semifinal had already left.

“England are leaving before us somehow?! Strange how different teams have more pull than others,” De Kock wrote in an Instagram story.

Miller, commenting on a post announcing England’s departure, said: “It doesn’t take the ICC long to organise England charter. WI have been waiting for 7 days for a charter and SA coming on 4 days now. And yet we still wait.”

The ICC said the criticism was “incorrect” and that there was no comparison between arrangements for South Africa and the West Indies and those made for England, “which arose from separate circumstances, routing options and different travel conditions”.

“Throughout this period, the ICC’s overriding ⁠priority has been the safety and welfare of everyone affected,” the sport’s global governing body said.

“We will not move people until we are satisfied that the travel ‌solution in place is safe, and that commitment will not change.”