Holidays

MOVE over, New York! Chicago will win your heart (and stomach), says writer Qin Xie.

“Is this place famous or something?” I overhear someone ask as our camera-wielding tour group files into Mr Beef.

The low-key Chicago sandwich shop is a cult favourite, serving wafer-thin slices of roast beef in gravy-dipped bread since 1979.

But thanks to TV show The Bear, which is inspired by the eatery, its popularity has sky-rocketed and now fans are flocking here on food tours.

At £96 plus tips, the half-day bus tour is a pricey day out – but as I bite into my flavour bomb of a sandwich, there’s nowhere I’d rather be (Chicagofoodtours.com).

Pizza the action

I’ve visited Chicago a few times and I always book a food tour, because the city is home to some of the best restaurants in the US.

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First-timers should try the gut-busting Original Chicago Pizza Tour, £66 for a half-day, where the classic deep dish is the star (Chicagopizzatours.com), though the fabulous half-day tacos and tequila tour in Pilsen, the city’s Mexican neighbourhood, is better for making friends.

I met a local improv comedian on mine and ended up going to his show.

Fantastic food aside, I love checking out the artworks scattered around Millennium Park, free fireworks displays at Navy Pier every Wednesday and Saturday night, plus quirky attractions like the Museum of Ice Cream, where you can try the hot-dog flavour!

It’s certainly an experience, but the strawberry cheesecake flavour is so much better.

Entry costs £18 per person (Museumoficecream.com).

Top of my list of places to revisit on this trip is Skydeck Chicago.

Located on the 103rd floor of Willis Tower, it’s the highest observation deck in the US, with sweeping views of the city.

There’s only one problem – I’m terrified of heights.

On my last visit, I hovered around the edge of the glass-bottomed viewing platform, too scared to step forward for a better view.

This time, as soon as I get close to the edge, my palms start to sweat and I’m ready to leave.

Then, out of the blue, a complete stranger offers me their hand to hold.

Something about it gives me the courage to step on to the glass and, between cold sweats and hot flushes, I manage to get a decent selfie.

Tickets cost £24 per person (Theskydeck.com).

Beach happy

On gloriously sunny days, it’s utter bliss to cycle along the Lakefront Trail next to Lake Michigan, stopping to flop out at the sandy beaches beside the city skyline.

I use bike-share scheme Divvy – there are bikes everywhere and they cost just £13 a day (Divvybikes.com).

The best place to refuel is Whispers at Oak Street Beach, right on the sand, although an iced coffee here will set you back close to £7 (Whispersgroup.com).

I’m staying at L7 Chicago By Lotte, a hotel in the heart of the city with rooms that come with yoga mats and free weights (Lottehotel.com).

It’s steps away from Chicago Riverwalk, the waterside footpath where the locals hang out, and it’s here that I join Urban Kayaks for a paddle past towering skyscrapers as a guide shares stories about the architecture.

A two-hour tour costs £44 per person (Urbankayaks.com).

My fave thing about coming to Chicago?

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Exploring the neighbourhoods, like leafy Lincoln Park with its free zoo, or trendy Wicker Park and Bucktown, which are packed with cool street art and edgy boutiques.

It’s why I can’t get enough of this city – each of its 77 neighbourhoods feels like somewhere new.

I’M standing open-mouthed on the edge of the desert, south-west of Cairo, the magnificent Great Pyramid of Giza directly in front of me.

For 4,000 years it was the tallest structure on the planet, and it is the only one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World still standing.

Here in Egypt at its base, with the heat of the afternoon sun radiating around me, I’m struck by its awesome scale and the astonishing human endeavour that constructed it in the desert 4,500 years ago.

Experts believe it took around 100,000 men 20 years to build this tomb for the ruling pharaoh Khufu, and mystery still surrounds the methods of its construction.

“Could they build this without belief? Could they build it without science? Could they build it without art?” says my tour guide, Dr Tarek Sarhan.

“Three things: Belief, science, art. This is the triangle of civilisation.”

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A short distance away on the Giza ­Plateau is the Great Sphinx — a colossal limestone statue of a mythical creature, part lion, part human.

Even with its nose missing, this enormous creature still cuts an imposing figure.

History courses through the foundations of this captivating site.

But my four-day trip to the Egyptian capital is characterised not just by the old, but by the new.

Just over a mile from the pyramids, the $1.2billion new Grand Egyptian Museum has finally opened more than two decades after work first started.

The enormous building, covering an area of 470,000 square metres, houses more than 50,000 artefacts — and the centre­piece of its collection will bring all 5,000-plus treasures from Tutankhamun’s tomb together for the first time.

Stepping through its pyramid-shaped entrance, the 3,200-year-old, 83-ton statue of Egyptian pharaoh Ramses II sits in GEM’s soaring central atrium.

Another striking set piece here is the museum’s Grand Staircase, punctuated by fascinating relics of some of ancient Egypt’s most important kings and queens.

I walk up, passing statues, columns, granite doorways and sarcophagi.

At the top, a vast window frames the three main pyramids of the Giza Plateau.

Here is where visitors will also find GEM’s 12 main galleries, but the main draw will always be the entire contents of the tomb of the boy king Tutankhamun, displayed together since it was first found by British Egyptologist Howard Carter.

The collection, of course, includes Tutankhamun’s spectacular gold mask, throne and chariots.

The collection, of course, includes Tutankhamun’s spectacular gold mask, throne and chariots

Standing in front of statues of kings and queens is only part of the picture.

At the city’s National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, I get to stand in front of their mummified bodies.

Located in the Old Cairo district of the city, this modern museum has a large and open exhibition space with artefacts spanning prehistoric times to the modern day.

But for its biggest draw, I have to descend to the underground Royal Mummies’ Hall.

This dark-walled, low-lit space is now the resting place of 20 royal mummies — 18 kings, including Ramses II, and two queens — displayed in glass cases.

Some of them are showcased with the coffins they were found in.

Sweet perfume fills the air

Shadows shift as visitors move through this superbly presented exhibition and there’s a sense that one of these mummified bodies might suddenly be reanimated.

There is certainly life to be found in Cairo’s vibrant Khan el-Khalili bazaar.

The intricate, linking alleyways of this open-air marketplace are lined with stalls selling everything from lanterns and ­candles to jewellery and figurines.

Colourful textiles and printed designs hang from walls and stands, and a sweet perfume fills the air.

Away from the buzz of the bazaar, the five-star Waldorf Astoria is an oasis of calm.

Located in the upmarket Heliopolis district, its high-ceiling, glass-walled curved atrium is part botanical garden, part chic Art Deco lounge.

There is certainly life to be found in Cairo’s vibrant Khan el-Khalili bazaar

My room here is spacious and quiet and the breakfast offering a lavish buffet selection with additional a la carte options and a pancake and French toast station.

EasyJet now offers year-round flights direct to Cairo’s Sphinx airport from Luton as well as a huge choice of packages with easyJet holidays.

If your visit here is brief, you won’t want to miss the sweeping and unforgettable views of this fascinating city from the citadel of Salah El Din.

This ancient fortification served as the seat of power in Egypt for 700 years and it remains one of Cairo’s major attractions.

Inside is the Mosque of Muhammad Ali with its stunning domes, towering minarets, ornate interior and huge central chandelier.

The vistas from this elevated position are wonderfully panoramic.

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As I take my transfer back to Sphinx along one of the city’s upgraded highways, I remember the words of my guide, Dr Tarek, in front of the Great Pyramid: “Egypt is a story with no end.”

Perhaps nowhere is this truer than in Cairo, which is building on its past as it looks to the future.

WITH its harbour, picturesque beaches and rugged countryside, the island of Guernsey could be any ordinary holiday destination at first glance.

But scratch below the surface and you’ll uncover the fascinating story of its five-year occupation by the Nazis — and about an an unlikely survivor of the invasion, Timmy the Tortoise.

I was keen to learn about it during my adventure on the second largest of the Channel Islands.

So I booked several short guided day trips with Tours Of Guernsey.

Guide Amanda Johns and I ticked off all the key sites, from museums to former bunkers and even a German underground hospital.

This medical centre — which incredibly doubled up as an ammunition store — had to be the highlight, and the extensive dark passages are a must-see for any history buff.

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The huge maze of tunnels were excavated by slave labourers, leading to wards, operation theatres, escape shafts, a cinema room and mortuary.

Above ground, I headed to the northern coast to Fort Hommet, a former Martello tower which was turned into a searchlight bunker.

After the war, part of the bunker was transformed into The Shrine of the Sacred Heart, featuring 30 Biblical pictures made from seashells.

Other sites include the German Occupation Museum, a warren of rooms containing one man’s extensive collection of items from 1940.

The Pleinmont Gun Battery has been restored and offers terrific views across the English Channel.

Batterie Mirus, the largest World War Two gun battery in the Channel Islands, was my last stop.

Its underground bunker can only be viewed by private tour.

Restored by Festung Guernsey, with many original features being reproduced using a 3D printer, the walls within are still dotted with German inscriptions, including the Nazi Eagle.

Potato peel pie

It was an honour to pay it a visit the day after Princess Anne was shown around while on the island for the Liberation Day celebrations.

The day marks when Allied troops freed the locals from Nazi rule on May 9, 1945.

On the 80th anniversary this year, I witnessed a cavalcade of military vehicles, fireworks and a drone light show.

One local making headlines during the celebrations was Timmy, 87 — actually a female — who survived Nazi occupation.

She was given to Maggie Cull as a christening present in 1941, not long after she and her parents were turfed out of their home by the Nazis.

After all that history I’d certainly worked up an appetite.

Luckily my base, St Pierre Park Hotel, was just a 25-minute walk into St Peter Port, where there are pubs and restaurants aplenty.

Fifty Seven restaurant is set over two floors and has stunning views of Castle Cornet and the coastline.

The menu features steaks cooked fresh on the grill as well as some excellent fish dishes including oven-baked monkfish on chilli linguine.

As you’re by the sea, grab yourself some fish and chips — the restaurant at Les Douvres Hotel dishes up one of the largest portions I’ve ever seen.

On my last night I dined on a special Liberation Day menu at the Old Government House Hotel, close to the harbour.

This 5H property was turned into the German General Staff Headquarters during the war and it still has an old-world feel about it today.

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The menu featured a delicious potato peel pie, a dish created by locals to cope with food shortages during Nazi occupation.

The perfect meal to end my historical adventure.

Reporting from Washington — President Trump, as he often does, had a few things to say.

After admitting that he had been lonely over the holidays, Trump took advantage of his first public appearance of the new year Wednesday to air lingering grievances, make multiple false claims and reinforce recent decisions that have rattled financial markets and his party’s leaders.

As he held forth for more than 90 minutes before a small pool of reporters and photographers, members of his Cabinet, ostensibly called to the White House for a meeting, sat quietly around a long conference table.

Trump defended his decision last month to withdraw U.S. troops from Syria and sharply cut the deployment to Afghanistan, moves that disturbed Republican allies in Congress and prompted the resignation of Defense Secretary James N. Mattis. In doing so, he contradicted his own recent claim that the U.S. had achieved its objectives of total victory over Islamic State militants in Syria.

“Syria was lost long ago,” he said.

“Look, we don’t want Syria,” he continued. “We’re talking about sand and death. That’s what we’re talking about. We’re not talking about vast wealth. We’re talking about sand and death,” he said, seemingly contrasting the war-wracked country with Iraq and its vast oil reserves.

Iran “can do what they want there, frankly,” he added, a comment likely to unnerve officials in Israel, who have worried that a U.S. withdrawal from its positions in eastern Syria would allow Iran to expand its influence there.

“It’s not my fault,” he said. “I didn’t put us there.”

Trump offered little further clarity on the U.S. withdrawal from Syria, which he initially said would take place in 30 days, saying now that the pullout will “take place over a period of time.”

Later, in a long riff about Afghanistan, Trump seemed to endorse Moscow’s 1979 invasion of the country — an act that the U.S. viewed as an attempt to spread communism and waged a long, covert operation to combat during the Carter and Reagan administrations.

“The reason Russia was in Afghanistan was because terrorists were going into Russia,” Trump said, making a case to leave the policing of hot spots in the Mideast and Central Asia to countries in the region. “They were right to be there. The problem is it was a tough fight.”

The Soviet Union eventually was bankrupted by its Afghan war, Trump added. “Russia used to be the Soviet Union. Afghanistan made it Russia, because they went bankrupt fighting in Afghanistan.”

Historians generally agree that the Russian invasion and subsequent occupation of much of Afghanistan was one of several factors that contributed to the collapse of the Soviet Union, although the country never went bankrupt.

For years, Republicans have credited President Reagan with bringing an end to the Soviet Union by his aggressive increase in U.S. military spending.

Trump’s comments stood in stark contrast to the view Mattis espoused in the resignation letter he presented last month after failing to convince the president to hold off on withdrawing from Syria.

“We must do everything possible to advance an international order that is most conducive to our security, prosperity and values, and we are strengthened in this effort by the solidarity of our alliances,” Mattis wrote.

Mattis’ comments clearly stung Trump, who responded last month with criticism of his former Pentagon chief. On Wednesday, he stepped that up, claiming that he fired Mattis.

“What’s he done for me? How had he done in Afghanistan? Not too good,” Trump said. “As you know, President Obama fired him, and essentially so did I.”

Obama did not fire Mattis, although the general did retire several months early in 2013 from his position as the head of the military’s Central Command after dissenting from Obama administration policy decisions.

Tuesday was Mattis’ final day at the Pentagon. Trump, in a fit of pique after the resignation letter became public, had moved up Mattis’ termination date

In addition to his foreign policy comments, Trump also downplayed December’s stock market losses, which erased all positive gains for the year, as “a little glitch” and asserted — wrongly — that there are “probably 30-35 million” immigrants in the U.S. illegally. The nonpartisan Pew Research Center estimates that as of 2016, there were 10.7 million unauthorized immigrants living in the country, a number that has declined in recent years.

Trump repeated his call for Democrats to agree to $5.6 billion in funding for a border wall, and expressed surprise not to have received overtures from them over the holidays to negotiate an end to the government shutdown.

“I was in the White House all by myself for six or seven days,” he said. “It was very lonely. My family was down in Florida. I said, ‘Stay there and enjoy yourself.’ I felt I should be here just in case people wanted to come and negotiate the border security.”

Trump, who met later in the day with congressional leaders away from TV cameras, has already dismissed a funding proposal from House Democratic leader Nancy Pelosi that includes $1.3 billion in border security funding.

While leaving the door open to a compromise, Trump continued to argue for the importance of a wall, pointing to other examples of barriers. He incorrectly asserted that Obama’s Washington residence is surrounded by a 10-foot wall and cited the Vatican, which he said “has the biggest wall of them all.”

“When they say the wall is immoral, then you better do something about the Vatican,” he said. “Walls work.”

As Trump spoke, a “Game of Thrones”-style movie poster teasing Iran sanctions — “SANCTIONS ARE COMING,” it read — lay unfurled across the table directly in front of him. But he made no remarks on the subject.

He did, however, comment on Sen.-elect Mitt Romney of Utah, who wrote in the Washington Post on Tuesday that he was troubled by Trump’s “deep descent in December” and that his deficit in “presidential leadership in qualities of character … has been most glaring.”

“I wish Mitt could be more of a team player,” Trump said. “And if he’s not, that’s OK too.”

Seeming to warn Romney about the fate that lies ahead for Republican lawmakers who vocally criticize him and his presidency, Trump boasted that he “got rid of” former Sens. Jeff Flake of Arizona and Bob Corker of Tennessee, both of whom opted not to seek new terms last year.

Accusing both men of seeking publicity in taking stands against him, Trump suggested that Flake would be seeking a job as a paid cable news contributor — or perhaps in another profession that Trump himself once plied.

“Jeff Flake is now selling real estate or whatever he’s doing,” he said dismissively.

The latest from Washington »

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@EliStokols

MONDAY night is DJ night at Hotel Ibiza and the bar/lounge area is filled with ambient house tunes as pink neon lights flash in time with the beat.

But despite the name of the place, we’re nowhere near the Balearic Island.

We’re in Les Deux Alpes in France, one of the most snow-sure ski resorts in Europe, and the terrace outside looks across to the glistening peaks of the Parc National des Ecrins. 

It’s the week before Christmas and a group of us have brought our teenagers for some festive fun on the slopes.

They’re not yet old enough to venture out alone into the resort’s bars and clubs, but they’re still keen to do their own thing so the entertainment here is ticking all the teen boxes.

While we sit a­t the bar, chatting with barman Costas as he expertly mixes our pre-dinner drinks, the kids have gone downstairs again for another game of air hockey.

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The huge basement games room, which also has ping-pong, table football, arcade games and a dozen or so sofas to laze on, is proving to be a big hit.

But it’s dinner time and I know the restaurant buffet will easily tempt away Freddie, our 15-year-old, because it is serving lasagne — his favourite dish — among a host of other options.

Like most teenage boys, Freddie is a big eater and as I watch him tuck into his third portion I feel relieved that we went for the all-inclusive option.

Feeding a growing lad is expensive at the best of times but particularly so in a ski resort.

Luckily, the Hotel Ibiza offers a super deal throughout the winter season, with kids under 18 staying free when sharing a room with their parents at the same board.

You can go for B&B or half- board, but families usually make the most of the kids-go-free offer and splash out on all-inclusive.

It makes sense, especially when you factor in the drinks.

Soft drinks, wine and beer with meals, and a selection of spirits for pre- and post-dinner drinks are part of the deal, and Costas keeps them coming, along with bowls of peanuts and tortilla chips, until 10pm.

After that, you can carry on drinking at your own expense, but you’ll probably want to be tucked up in bed by then, exhausted by a day’s activity in the mountain air. 

It was early in the season but already the snow conditions were good.

The sun was shining (Les Deux Alpes boasts above-average sunshine too) and with heavy snow and white-outs forecast for later in the week, we were making the most of the blue skies. 

We loved the Jandri Express, the resort’s sparkling new state-of-the-art cable car that whizzes you up to 3,200m in just 17 minutes, half the time the old gondola took.

It takes up to 32 people at a time — 24 seated and eight standing — and gives you plenty of time to adjust boots or have a snack.

One morning we joined First Tracks, where you accompany the Ski Patrollers, who prepare the slopes daily, spending two hours learning about what is involved.

It costs €22 (£19.40) per person, including breakfast at La Toura Restaurant, and can be booked through the tourist office.

Best of all, it means you get to go up before the lifts open to the public and can be the first to ski down.

With freshly-groomed slopes to ourselves, it’s when we got our best photos.

We also tried yoonering — a bit like sledging but on a seat 20cm above the ground, with your legs stretched out in front to act as brakes, gliding down and leaning left or right to turn. It was easy to get the hang of it and went surprisingly fast.

We all loved it. 

‘QUIRKY AND FUN’

On a few evenings we stopped off for a beer or a vin chaud at one of the bars near the bottom of the Jandri, but most nights we got straight on the free shuttle bus for the five-minute hop home and did our après ski back at the hotel bar/lounge, enticed by the all- inclusive drinks and the chilled out, family-friendly vibe.

The hotel’s decor somehow manages to make it cosy and cool at the same time.

There’s a retro, musical theme, with prints of rock and pop legends along the corridors and coffee tables in the lounge, which double up as Monopoly boards or glass-topped exhibits of Barbies and Action Men.

It’s quirky and fun.

Our room, one of 60, was a two-bed family one, with balcony and bath.

Each room comes with bath robes and slippers for the walk down to the basement spa, with its sauna, steam room and indoor heated pool all free for guests.

The food was excellent for a three-star hotel, particularly the evening meals, when you could take a bowl and help yourself from the salad or soup bar, followed by an array of hot meat, fish and veggie dishes, plus a surprising amount of veggie sides, which is often lacking in ski hotels.

The desserts were so generous that even Freddie agreed to share.

After dinner we’d sink into the comfy lounge sofas en famille and play cards or games.

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One night after dinner, two of the younger children played Christmas songs on the grand piano and we all joined in — even the teens!

With only a few more years before they’ll probably be off skiing with their mates, it was a moment to be cherished.

CHELTENHAM is famed for its racecourse and its annual “Greatest Show On Turf”.

But there’s so much more to do in this pretty Regency spa town than have a flutter on the horses.

Emma Glanfield takes you on a tour of the best of the rest.

WHY SHOULD I GO? Sitting at the foot of the Cotswolds hills, Cheltenham is vibrant and buzzy, with a backdrop of well-preserved Regency architecture and rolling countryside.

And its abundance of quirky hotels, lively bars and boutique shops make it perfect for a weekend away.

There always seems to be something exciting going on, too, with the town hosting more than 30 festivals and events a year.

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Among these are the 80-year-old music festival and the world’s longest running literature festival.

And, of course, it is the home of National Hunt racing, with the Cheltenham Festival boasting pinnacle event the Gold Cup.

STREETS MADE FOR WALKING? The spa town is sprawling but walkable, and there’s plenty of gorgeous architecture to enjoy on the way.

Wander the elegant, tree-lined Montpellier district — one of the town’s most historic areas — and take in the surroundings while popping into boutique shops and cosy cafes.

The Grade I-listed Rotunda, inspired by Rome’s Pantheon, was once a spa pump room but is now a branch of The Ivy hotel. You can dine there amid the Art Deco-style interior.

It’s also worth a stroll around The Suffolks, a sought-after district with mid-19th century buildings, independent shops and cafes, plus a friendly pub called The Suffolk Arms.

ANYTHING FOR THE BUCKET LIST? It really is worth attending a Cheltenham race meet. There’s a reason the town is known for its horseracing, and you don’t have to be massively into the sport to enjoy it.

With food, drink and glam all on offer, it’s a great, fun-packed day out. Alternatively, take a walk up Cleeve Hill — the highest point in the Cotswolds — for breathtaking panoramic views across the town and towards The Malverns.

WHERE SHOULD I EAT? With burgers as big as your head, The Beefy Boys is not to be missed. It was buzzing on the Saturday night we visited.

The atmosphere was jolly but not so loud you couldn’t chat.

The award-winning Dirty Boy and Oklahoma Onion Boy are absolute beasts, but delicious. Go hungry!

For those wanting a more formal affair, or for a special occasion, Settebello, in Belgrave House, serves authentic Italian cuisine. We feasted on giant bowls of rigatoni with an ox cheek ragu, £18, and Spigola Puttanesca (sea bass with a punchy tomato sauce), £25. The two-course lunch menu at £19 is well worth the money.

FANCY A DRINK? There are stylish bars all over, but a visit to Mr Cambray’s Curiosity won’t leave you disappointed.

Cafe by day, cocktail room by night, it has five themed rooms to explore.

There’s also the recently opened Parler on Clarence Street, in the heart of town. This Georgian building has been reimagined into a Parisian-style cafe by day, and a Japanese listening bar come sundown, with a cosy retro vibe.

The Retreat Wine Bar in Suffolk Parade is a bit of an institution, having been serving drinks since 1982. For late-night entertainment, the Gin & Juice Bar has more than 400 gins on offer and regular live music.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY? For those wanting to be in the town centre, Hotel du Vin is a great choice. The 4H boutique hotel is set in the Montpellier district just a five-minute walk from The Promenade, a local shopping district.

Breakfast is a continental spread with hot plate options, taken next to the impressive underground wine cellars.

At night, guests can enjoy a glass of wine in The Laroche tasting room before diving into soft Egyptian cotton sheets in one of the hotel’s 49 bedrooms. Our room had a huge double bed and walk-in “monsoon” shower.

For those seeking pure relaxation away from the hustle and bustle, you won’t go wrong with The Greenway Hotel & Spa.

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The 16th-century manor house — an eight-minute taxi ride from the town centre — was once a grand family home before being taken over by The Eden Hotel Collection. A £1.2million makeover included 21 beautifully revamped bedrooms.

The in-house Elan Spa is not to be missed.

The house that served as the home of Doris in the hit BBC sitcom Gavin and Stacey is now available to rent for holidaymakers who want to immerse themselves in the world of the show

Attention, Gavin and Stacey superfans – you can now book a stay in one of the iconic houses from the hit BBC One sitcom. Trinity Street in Barry, with views of the Island, was the fictional home to Gwen and Stacey, Uncle Bryn and their cheeky neighbour Doris, played by actor Margaret John.

When the show returned in 2019, Doris’ house became the family home for Gavin and Stacey and their children, after it was passed down to them following her death. Gwen’s house (played by Melanie Walters) has always been a fan favourite, but now the neighbouring property is available for rent for holidaymakers wanting to experience the world of Gavin and Stacey.

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The red-brick terrace, named Lush House, is owned by Lisa and Chris Molloy, who are huge fans of the show. They were the first to view the property when it went on sale and managed to buy it, having loved the sitcom since it first aired in 2008, according to Wales Online.

You can book Lush House through Sykes Cottages for as early as next week, with prices starting from £472 for a two-night stay. If split between five people, this works out at around £47 per person per night.

The house comfortably sleeps five guests in two bedrooms: one double and another with a three-person bunk. The snug living and dining area is equipped with an electric fire, TV and WiFi for cosy nights in after a day of exploring, along with a dining table – just don’t forget the salad!

The property is already fully booked for Christmas week (we’re sure whoever has nabbed it is planning a Gavin and Stacey marathon) but there’s plenty of other availability in November and December.

The house has been the setting for some of Gavin and Stacey’s most memorable moments, including saucy Doris snogging toyboy Scott, making a pass at Gav on the doorstep, and in the 2019 and 2024 Christmas specials, it was the backdrop for the whole gang to celebrate Christmas as Uncle Bryn’s military operation dinner was (part) cooked there.

Step outside the front door and you’re just minutes away from Barry’s vibrant high street and Barry Island – where Marco’s Café, the slots and the chip shops are at the beach front – is just a half-hour walk away.

You can book Lush House with Sykes Cottages here, and for other holiday lets in Barry, try Holidaycottages.com and Vrbo.

WOULD you believe it that one village in Suffolk used to be as big as London, and just as important?

On the east coast of England is a village that years ago used to be one of the country’s biggest trade hubs, but due to coastal erosion has been lost to the sea.

Dunwich in Suffolk sits 13 miles down the coast from Lowestoft, and in recent history has been called the ‘Lost City of England‘ or even Suffolk’s answer to Atlantis.

During the medieval period, Dunwich had a main port which was a huge hub for international trade in what was the Kingdom of East Anglia.

Dunwich was even the capital of the Kingdom of the East Angles in the Anglo-Saxon period.

At that time, Dunwich was home to around 3,000 people – the same number that were in London.

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It would trade goods like wool, grain and fish, but problems began in the 14th century after a number of huge storms.

Significant storms in 1286, 1328 and 1362 caused a huge amount of damage, destroying buildings.

It washed the port and a large amount of the town into the sea, including around 400 houses and eight churches.

Sonar images have even revealed a number of old buildings and streets sitting 30 feet below the sea.

After this, the medieval port was lost and so Dunwich became what it’s known as now, a coastal village.

There’s very little of the original Dunwich left now, but one ruin that’s still on land is the Greyfriars Monastery.

This isn’t the original though as that was also destroyed by a storm in 1286, the ruins visible today are from the “new” friary that was rebuilt in the late 13th century.

These are reportedly haunted with some visitors saying they spotted mysterious lights, and even ghosts at the friary.

If you want to learn more about Dunwich’s rich history, there’s even a museum dedicated to telling the history of the village from Roman times to the present day.

But today, most people visit Dunwich to spend time on its stretching beach which in 2021 was named as one of the UK’s best-kept secrets.

Just down the coast is Dunwich Heath, known for its wildlife like Dartford warblers, woodlarks, adders and antlions.

The beach and surrounding countryside are owned by the National Trust, which runs a beachside tearoom called Coastguard Cottages where you can pick up hot and cold drinks, snacks and light meals.

There’s also a children’s play area on the beach, and cafes and pubs in the nearby village.

Favourites on Tripadvisor include The Ship Inn Restaurant, Flora Tea Rooms and The 12 Lost Churches.

For more exploration, further up the coast is the pretty seaside town of Southwold, or travel south to Leiston and Aldeburgh.

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The English seaside town with no arcades or rides but named the best in the UK…

Aldeburgh in Suffolk doesn’t have any arcades, but instead is littered with pastel-coloured holiday villas and fisherman’s huts selling the daily catch.

Today, the town still celebrates its rich history and has a literary festival each year.

Locals also boast about the town’s fish and chips, with The Suffolk recommended by Michelin.

Along the high street, instead of arcades you will find clothes boutiques, antiques shops and independent book stores.

One stop to head to is O&C Butcher – a 130-year-old clothes store selling top brands including Barbour and Gant. The town is also known for being the home of famous composer, Benjamin Britten.

Today, during the summer months, visitors can head to his home, The Red House. Britten shared the home with Peter Pears and it is nestled in a five acre garden, with a farmhouse, gallery space, shop and cafe. And there is a historic cinema in the town too.

It doesn’t look like your average cinema from the outside, as it features timber framing.

The beach itself boasts both shingle and sand and backs onto the town, making it the ideal spot for adventuring to after exploring the town.

On the beach you will also find The Scallop – a sculpture that is a tribute to Benjamin Britten.

The Times recently named the seaside town the best in the UK.

For a place to stay in Dunwich, discover what one writer made of the Smugglers Inn.

And hear more from Jimmy Doherty who lives in Suffolk or as he called it, the ‘undiscovered gem of England’.

There’s a never-ending list of places across the UK where you can get your hands on a hearty dish of fish and chips. But there’s one particular chippy that has long been hailed as ‘the best’

Fish and chips are a staple in British cuisine, and have been famously classed as the national dish for centuries. Whether that’s eating them at the seaside, indulging in a fish supper at your local pub, or making your own variation at home, there’s nothing quite like it.

But there’s one UK village thought to offer one of the best places to enjoy the delicacy. Nestled in the village of Beamish in County Durham, which “hasn’t changed over 100 years”, is Davys Fish & Chips.

Content creator and avid foodie, Callum (@streetfoodanalysis), took to TikTok to share a video of the hearty eatery, labelling it the “best” in the country. In a video showing a glimpse inside Davys Fish & Chips, Callum said: “This is the fish and chip shop trapped in time.

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“One of the last in the world that uses coal to heat the original 1950s fryers with fish and chips cooked in beef dripping.”Proving just how delicious Davys Fish & Chips is, Callum shared a clip of himself indulging in the dish as he exclaimed, “Wow”.

With a perfect crisp on both the fish and chips, it’s not just Callum who has given rave reviews of this frozen-in-time fish and chip shop. His video was flooded with comments from others who have sampled the famed meal from this charming eatery, with its blue counter and original features. One affirmed: “Beamish fish and chips were the best fish and chips I have ever had.”

A second penned: “Beamish is one of our favourite places to go, as for the chip shop, it’s amazing, you can’t get better. It’s the one on the mining village, beware, the portions are huge. Can’t wait to go back.”

“Love going to Beamish, those fish n chips are absolutely worth the 2 hour wait”, a third noted. Another added: “Love Beamish the chips are a must.”

While another commented: “The fish n chips looked amazing! Absolutely beautiful place! And visitors still keep on visiting Beamish!” “Love Beamish, the chippy is unreal!” one more declared.

In the video, which has accumulated more than 500K likes, Callum said the chippy is found in Beamish, where “the sweet shop makes candy by hand and the bakery makes the same cakes as a century ago.” He also noted that it’s a place which rarely has phone signal, adding to its quaint and historic appeal.

AS I walked down the gangplank, I felt green – no not seasick, ENVY!

I’m taking a look at the latest vessel to join the Ambassador fleet, its first fly-cruise ship.

Renaissance was setting off from London Tilbury on a cold afternoon to spend the winter cruising the Caribbean – sadly, without me.

The first guests were already having fun at Le Lido with its lovely swimming pool and two whirlpools, under an impressive retractable roof.

There is another outdoor pool at the stern.

Renaissance is British-French owned and recently renovated – and it shows. Not glitzy, not modern, just effortlessly chic.

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Top-notch dining

It can carry 1,100 guests who will fly/cruise from Barbados on 14-night itineraries, which include visits to St Kitts, Martinique, Antigua, St Maarten and Curacao.

The cruise line has chartered Virgin Atlantic flights from Heathrow or Manchester to fly you in style to join Renaissance for the winter season, with four choices of seating class.

Renaissance will then head to Blighty for the summer to join sister ships Ambience and Ambition with exciting new itineraries.

A peek at the choice of cabins impressed me. Even the inside one is spacious, light and airy, with serious amounts of storage – and enough hangers!

This is not a super- luxurious expensive cruise line, but it offers a great-value opportunity to escape the British winter.

The inside cabins were the best I have ever seen. The suites? Well, with a super-spacious private balcony, I would have had to drag myself away to enjoy the onboard entertainment. They were very good value.

There are of course porthole and window cabins, some balcony, and even cabins with sliding doors onto the outside deck.

The theatre was gorgeous – elegant and comfortable, West End glamour – without the queue for the Ladies!

A large gym, and free access to the spa suite promised opportunities to keep fit. Lots of lounge and library space too.

And there are plenty of top-notch dining options.

The impressive Valet main dining restaurant covers two decks and offers great sea views.

The Belle Vue buffet restaurant is great for casual dining and there are three speciality venues at a small extra cost plus a signature Chef’s Table seven-course dining experience.

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Kreole will serve up a vibrant menu reflecting Caribbean culinary traditions, Lotus has Pan-Asian options and Terre et Mer will feature a six-course extravaganza.

I was sad Renaissance sailed without me this time but you don’t have to miss the boat, there are Christmas and New Year cruises as well as lots more dates to discover the delights of Ambassadors’ Renaissance in the Caribbean in 2026.

OVER 1,700 flights have already been canceled across the country this weekend as officials warn Thanksgiving will be hit by travel chaos.

It comes as the US endures its longest government shutdown in history and federal aviation officials order 40 major airports to slash services due to staffing shortages.

Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy has vowed on X to “keep the skies safe” by using every tactic at his disposal, which he said will see travelers increasingly hit with delays and cancelations.

On Friday he warned that even if the government shutdown ended now, Thanksgiving air travel would still be impacted.

“So if the government opens on Day 1, will I see an immediate response from controllers? No, the union is telling me it’s going to take time to get them all back in,” Duffy told CNN.

At the time of writing, the number of canceled flights for today alone already stands at 957, according to FlightAware, and at least 8,442 are delayed.

Sunday already has at least 838 flight cancelations and 213 delays.

Duffy confirmed in a joint statement with the Federal Aviation Administration on Friday that cuts to services will increase across this weekend and into next week.

“We are seeing signs of stress in the system, so we are proactively reducing the number of flights to make sure the American people continue to fly safely,” FAA Administrator Bryan Bedford said.

“The FAA will continue to closely monitor operations, and we will not hesitate to take further action to make sure air travel remains safe.”

The statement noted a 4% cut in operations on Friday, “ramping up to 6% by November 11, 8% by November 13, and 10% by November 14”.

This percentage of cuts could rise to 15% or 20% if the government shutdown does not end “relatively soon,” Duffy warned when speaking to Fox News.

Major airlines have already tried to do damage control by announcing cancelations ahead of time.

On Friday, American Airlines told CNN it would cut 220 flights from its Saturday services.

United Airlines confirmed hundreds of cuts across the weekend through to Tuesday, and Southwest has axed approximately 100 flights on Saturday and 150 on Sunday.

Travelers caught up in the chaos have described the carnage awaiting them at the airports with people lying on floors and sleeping where they can while hoping to hear news of their flights.

Travelers should check with their airline for the latest updates on their flights.

Meanwhile, tourism officials are urging both Republicans and Democrats to end the stalemate that began on October 1 as they fear catastrophic economic blows.

Hawaii in particular is in danger of unique harm, officials have warned Duffy, as the islands are hit with the enforced cuts but with little alternative for health care, commerce, or security.

“We strongly urge federal leaders to reach an immediate resolution,” Hawaiian Airlines said while thanking the air traffic controllers and TSA officers keeping airports running without pay.

And officials in Las Vegas, which is already suffering from a tourism hole, have warned that the shutdown and airport cuts have happened at the worst possible time.

The U.S. Travel Association joined by MGM Resorts, Caesars Entertainment, The Venetian, and the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority wrote a letter urging Congress to take action now to end the shutdown.

They warned that the travel industry has already lost $4 billion and that the economic situation will only worsen as Americans and travelers from abroad rethink their trips.

Retailers are also preparing to feel the impact just as holiday season hits as supply chain officials warn that a large amount of cargo is carried on commercial flights.

“Forty percent to 50% of all air freight is shipped in the belly of passenger planes,” Patrick Penfield, a Syracuse University professor of supply chain practice told NBC News.

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“If you eliminate 10% of airline capacity, air freight prices will rise, and we could see delays in getting materials via air.”

The shutdown has entered its 38th day and no end is in sight after Senate Republicans rejected an offer by the Democrats on Friday to reopen with a health care deal.

The tourist’s bathroom dilemma amused social media users when she admitted her problem

People have been left stunned after an American tourist admitted she didn’t know how to use the sink in her hotel room. The blogger, Angelica, has been posting about her UK travel on TikTok under the username @angelicajenniferr.

In one video from her recent trip to London, the tourist encountered an unusual problem. She told viewers: “Okay, I’m currently in London and guys, I don’t know how to make my sink water go away. I have tried clicking it.

“Am I dumb, or is it like, right in front of my face? Or is it broken? I’m like, it doesn’t click. Is there a button I’m missing?” Asking for help, Angelica said: “Yall, how do I make the water go away?

“Um, can anyone who lives in London or European help me? Because my sink is broken or, I don’t know if it’s broken or if I’m being dumb. The water isn’t going away.” In her caption, she added: “I feel so dumb but also I’m totally about to call the front desk.”

Fortunately, Angelica soon realised her mistake. In a follow-up video, she told viewers: “Let me go down the list of things that you told me to try, and it still didn’t work, and then I’ll tell you what did work.

“Okay, for starters, I have been pushing on this thing. My knuckles will be bleeding soon. People said to pull this down, to pull this. Nothing works. There’s nothing around the sink, okay.

“I had to call someone and be like, I think my sink’s broken. And I was like, the water isn’t going down, I’ve tried everything. And do you know what they told me? Let me tell you. They were like, flip it like a coin, which I know you guys said that. I was like, you’re kidding. You are kidding.

“So look at me. That’s so much easier. I have nails, and I was afraid to break them.” She joked: “Anyways, blonde moment. It flips like a coin. So I learned something new.”

The videos went viral, with the second clip racking up over 200k views. Reacting to the video, some commenters were shocked by the post.

One viewer replied: “Not trying everything then lol.” A second commented: “Standard hotel sink…” Another commenter said: “So if you didn’t think to try this, you obviously hadn’t tried everything.” Someone else wrote: “My sink is like that. I can’t believe you didn’t know how to do that….”

However, others rushed to defend the tourist, saying they would have struggled as well. A viewer said: “Italian here. Never seen anything like that. In fact, I would have been in trouble too… It should also be said that it seems like a very unhygienic solution.”

A second added: “As a Brit, I would have been lost too, don’t worry. I know these sinks exist, but they’re not everywhere.” Someone agreed: “I’m a Brit and have never seen a plug like this. Don’t worry, you’re not alone!”

WITH a bright blue flowing river, mountains and a huge canyon, you might think this spot is in America at first glance.

But no, this beautiful place is not in Arizona, instead it’s in one of the prettiest French regions, and Brits rarely travel to it.

You’ll find this spot in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, which is one of the six departments in the Provence region.

The department is home to ‘Europe‘s Grand Canyon’ called Gorges du Verdon in France, which is a huge limestone gorge carved by the very blue Verdon River.

The Gorges du Verdon is 15 miles long, up to 700 meters deep, and between 6 and 100 meters wide at the bottom.

While it’s a great place to get pictures, there’s even more you can do there, from hiking to climbing, and watersports.

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The river begins near the town of Castellane, and ends at the Lake of Esparron.

To see more of the natural beauty, and particularly wildlife, head to the Verdon National Park where there are vultures, eagles and falcons.

There are also wolves, chamois (a type of goat-antelope), roe deer, wild boar, and ibex, as well as reptiles, bats, fish and scorpions.

The Sun’s Brittany Vonow explored France in a campervan earlier this year where she discovered the incredible canyon along the way.

She said: “One highlight was a visit to the Verdon Gorge, a river canyon close to the region of Quinson, filled with deep turquoise water.

“We filled up on a quick lunch from our gas stove — two minute noodles with some tinned veg mixed in — before hiking the stunning mountains bordering the water.”

Brittany continued: “Our “cooee” calls echo around the rock faces and at that moment, it feels like we are the only people left in the world. A short drive west of here took us to Sainte Croix Verdon, home to a huge lake with waters as turquoise as the Verdon Gorge.

“With each turn, southern France shows off its jaw-dropping vistas, from rolling lavender fields to gorgeous gorges that make way for towering snow-capped mountains and picturesque French towns nestled in between.”

The Alpes-de-Haute-Provence also has mountains with ski resorts in the north, with many in the Verdon valley.

The department is also famous for its lavender fields, especially the Plateau de Valensole – to see them in bloom, visit from late June to mid-July.

The Alpes-de-Haute-Provence department of France has no main airport and so it’s not as visited as some of its neighbours nearer the coast like Marseille and Nice.

These cities are the ones that Brits will have to fly to, and then drive into the department from.

Both Marseille and Nice are around two and a half hours away from the Verdon Gorge by car.

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For more in France, here’s an underrated city that has a ‘bit of everything’ with picturesque beaches and new cheap hotels.

Also in France is the world’s most beautiful village – with classic car tours & fairytale lavender fields.

ARRIVING in India, I feel like Dorothy entering Oz. This country is an assault on the senses in every way.

One minute I’m practising sunrise yoga to the peaceful sound of birds chirping; the next, I’m surrounded by loud honking cars and bikes on a bumpy bus ride through the city.

My serene morning walk at the green Lodi Gardens sits in complete contrast to the brightly coloured markets, selling vibrant yellow flower garlands under the smell of rich incense, that I’m exploring just hours later.

It was my first visit to India and naturally, as a solo female tourist, safety was at the forefront of my mind. But the tide is changing with regard to how women are accepted across the country, and this has been incorporated into Intrepid’s unique Women’s Expedition tours.

It supports locals on the ground, and I met some during my stay in Chandelao.

A tiny village an hour from Jodphur and off the tourist trail, it is home to just 3,500 people.

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There, I explored the local arts centre Sunder Rang, which employs women to work — uncommon especially in more rural areas.

The shop is full of multicoloured items made from scrap fabrics, with everything from clothing and bags to decorations on sale.

One of the young jewellery makers let me try my hand at threading beads as we huddled together in the shade.

Due to my novice skills, I resorted to buying her handmade necklaces (guided by her on which to choose, as they even earn commission).

My art skills were tested further at Chandelao Garh, a stunning 17th century former fort now a hotel with 20 rooms and a swimming pool.

Locals taught me the art of Rangoli — circular patterns drawn on the ground in celebration.

I was only slightly offended when the cheeky hotel dog Pluto walked all over my wonky chalk designs.

Chandelao is the kind of village where slowness is encouraged — be it a sunset walk through the streets or a leisurely candlelit dinner chased by a Kingfisher beer.

But just a few hours east is the crowd-heavy Jaipur, nicknamed the Pink City for its terracotta walls.

Keen to escape the market chaos, I opted for a tour with Renu, a rare female tuk-tuk driver and now chair of tour company Pink City Rickshaw.

While the women face adversity from both family and other male drivers, the job gives them economic independence.

I was whirled around in the electric tuk-tuks, exploring the Old City with street food stops to keep me going in the 33C heat. I recommend trying Sabudana tikki, an Indian hash brown with tapioca, followed by a cooling kheer rice pudding.

The female rickshaw drivers were patient enough to let me take my selfies at the famous pink Hawa Mahal palace, too.

Built to allow the female royal household to watch the city without being seen by others, the towering palace wall was too beautiful to skip.

It was as I was gazing up at the intricately carved windows (of which there are 953) that my driver explained some of the stares we noticed from locals while in the tuk-tuk.

“We’ve seen male drivers crash into walls, they are so shocked to see a woman behind the wheel,” Renu told me with a laugh.

My experience of the Fast & Furious-esque rickshaws that squeeze through impossible gaps in the traffic means this doesn’t exactly surprise me. Thankfully, the women drive at a slower, safer pace for any nervous travellers.

Travelling further east, we head to Agra, home to the historic red sandstone Agra Fort and one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the Taj Mahal.

Haggled for scarves

It’s worth the 4.30am wake-up to see the sky lighting up behind the domed mausoleum, built over two decades by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in honour of his late wife, Mumtaz Mahal.

It’s almost impossible to comprehend the details that remain after 400 years, with the bright white marble towering 240ft high, ornamented with jewels and intricate patterns.

The early start also allows you to avoid the huge crowds and the midday heat.

I managed to skip the lunchtime crush by visiting Sheroes, a cafe run by acid-attack survivors.

It’s a hard visit, where staff share their stories about being injured.

Over homecooked chickpea curries and roti, I chatted to 25-year-old Dolly, who was attacked as a child by a man 22 years her senior. The cafe gave her confidence to re-enter society.

Being a female traveller, the Intrepid tour helped me explore the country safely as a woman.

I stopped in Jodhpur, the Blue City, and learned about the beautiful Mehrangarh Fort which was used to film Batman movie, The Dark Knight Rises, and the live-action movie The Jungle Book.

And in chaotic Delhi, I haggled for handwoven scarfs from eager market vendors, before being dragged into dance by a man wearing a bejewelled elephant outfit.

India might have a way to go still when it comes to equality. But it’s certainly on the right trajectory.

And with Virgin Atlantic now celebrating 25 years of flying to this awe-inspiring country, it shows this a destination that will always be top of British holidaymakers’ bucket lists.

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I’ll be back.

After a click of my new ruby red Indian slippers, of course.

If traditional British cuisine is your thing, you might want to head to this pretty village in the north east

Tucked away in the northeast of England lies one of Britain’s most picturesque villages.

Sitting high above the North Yorkshire Moors, the seaside treasure of Staithes was formerly a thriving fishing harbour in the North East.

Rich in heritage, Staithes is also home to one of the area’s best Sunday roasts, dished up at The Captain Cook Inn.

The Captain Cook Inn boasts an enviable location, set amongst the clifftops with sweeping views across the charming cobbled lanes and peaceful shoreline beneath.

Customers have flocked to Tripadvisor to sing the praises of the pub’s roast dinners, reports the Express.

One delighted customer declared: “Had a fabulous Sunday Roast, plenty of it and the beef was so tender and very moreish!”.

Sharing this view, another guest commented: “The meal was absolutely delicious. The meat was so tender and the vegetables were al dente. Just how we like them. Big fluffy Yorkshire and rich gravy. Could have eaten a whole plate of their roast potatoes.”

Alongside the celebrated roast, the establishment serves traditional favourites including steak pie, scampi and chips, and golden whitebait for starters.

Ale lovers can enjoy a range of brews, including the signature tipple, Northern Navigator, produced specially for the inn by the North Yorkshire Brewery, just 15 miles down the road.

Little wonder that The Captain Cook Inn received Tripadvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Award. Visitors to the village can delve into its rich history, which is dominated by its most famous historical figure – Captain James Cook.

The Staithes Heritage Centre and Captain Cook Museum offer a trip back in time, recreating the shop where the famed explorer once worked as a grocer’s apprentice.

This delightful centre is filled with a collection that includes books, letters, and medals, transporting visitors back to the era of Captain Cook.

Staithes, also known for its vibrant artistic heritage, was once home to a significant group of artists known as the “Staithes group” or the “Northern Impressionists”.

Today, the pride of the village, the Staithes Gallery, showcases an impressive range of contemporary artwork, including paintings, photographs, and sculptures, all inspired by the charming village and its scenic surroundings.

For those interested in prehistoric discoveries, Staithes sits on the renowned Dinosaur Coast, offering plenty of opportunities for uncovering the past.

Tucked away within the village’s harbour is the sheltered Staithes Beach; when the tide goes out, it reveals a captivating world of rockpools filled with fossils and tiny sea creatures, providing endless fascination for any keen fossil hunter.

Further escapades await along the Cleveland Way National Trail, a 109-mile stretch that offers breathtaking views, from dramatic moorlands to historic coastal castles and quaint fishing villages, running from Filey to Helmsley.

After your adventures, relax at the quayside at the Cod and Lobster pub, renowned for its extensive seafood menu including its signature dish: a delicious pan-fried Cod Fillet served with a rich Lobster Bisque, homemade Potato Rosti and spinach, topped with a juicy Lobster tail or Claw.

Not to be overlooked, the Cod and Lobster also serve up mouth-watering hot and cold sandwiches alongside traditional pub favourites.

Finally, end your day with a visit to Dotty’s Vintage Tearoom, where you can enjoy a taste of yesteryear with their delightful homemade cheese or fruit scones, hearty toasties, and a comforting brew.

Staithes, while being acknowledged as one of the most picturesque villages, also boasts a rich history, exciting adventures, and first-rate cuisine.

JUST an hour away from Porto in Portugal lies a historic riverside city with a curious culinary tradition.

Amarante, perched on a bend of the Tamega river, has become widely known for its pastries — not because of their flavour or filling, but their shape.

The treats, named bolos de Sao Goncalo after the local patron saint, are baked to look like a particular part of the male anatomy.

Many believe they are a nod to Saint Goncalo’s success as a matchmaker, after he supposedly helped scores of single women and widows find husbands.

But the pastries’ story actually dates to medieval times.

As I tour the Sao Goncalo Church and Monastery, I learn that the shape is reminiscent of the ancient rituals and traditions related to prosperity and the fertility gods.

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Over time, the cakes gradually became associated with Saint Goncalo, and even though they were banned during Portugal’s dictatorship, which ended in 1974, they have since been embraced by the people of Amarante as a proud symbol of local identity.

People who are looking for love or hoping to start a family still visit the monastery today, reciting a hopeful prayer while clutching the rope belt on his statue.

Decorated inside with ornate gold leaf carvings and traditional Portuguese tiles, the beautiful 400-year-old building is worth a visit, regardless of your hopes for love.

But I was more interested in sampling the phallic pastries.

Confeitaria da Ponte, the city’s oldest bakery — so named because of its proximity to the bridge — is a great place to try the much- loved bakes.

Owner Joana Machado tells me that Amarante delicacies are generally made with lots of egg yolks.

This includes their house speciality — a moist, round, bite-sized confection coated with sugar that is also called a bolo de Sao Goncalo, although this one looks far less phallic.

“The recipes began in the monastery,” she explains. “Nuns used the egg whites to iron the clothes, so they used the yolks for baking.” The famous pastel de nata, or Portuguese custard tart, is another example of a “conventual” sweet (meaning originating in a convent).

At riverside cafe Casa dos bolos de Sao Goncalo, on Rua 31 de Janeiro, the classic penis cake has been given a modern update.

The choux pastry case is filled with pistachio cream and topped with a drizzle of green chocolate in an apparent nod to the Dubai chocolate trend that has recently taken the world by storm.

I can’t help but giggle as I slice a piece off the top of the golden brown treat.

Tasty souvenirs

The pastry is crunchy on the outside and chewy in the middle, while the pistachio filling adds a sweet, nutty flavour.

I can certainly see why these cheeky cakes have been popular for centuries!

You’ll want to dine on more than just sugary treats, though — and there are plenty of places to do that.

Northern Portuguese cuisine is more meaty than in the south, where seafood reigns supreme, and the regional speciality, slow-roasted veal, does not disappoint.

Lusitana is an excellent spot that was recommended to me by the staff at my hotel, Casa do Ribeirinho. Here, thick slices of tender, juicy meat are served with roasted potatoes and rice. The hearty meal is affordable, too.

Mains for two, a shared goat’s cheese starter and chocolate mousse for dessert with two glasses of wine costs €24 each (around £21).

For a slightly more upmarket dinner, try Ze da Calcada, which also serves regional dishes such as chicken with chestnuts, mushrooms, sweet potatoes and green beans, as well as local wines from the Douro valley.

Mains are typically €16 each (around £14).

Before you depart Amarante, be sure to visit the stall outside the Municipal Museum Amadeo de Souza Cardoso.

Dedicated to the modernist painter after whom it is named, it is currently closed for renovations.

But the stall is a great place to stock up on tasty souvenirs.

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It is laden with phallic cakes of all different sizes, some of which are crunchy like biscuits and individually wrapped with colourful ribbons.

More robust than the choux pastry variety, they make the perfect take-away treat for yourself — or a great tongue-in-cheek gift for someone who needs a bit of luck in the love department.

THERE is a beautiful train journey that claims to go to the “end of the world” and has some stunning views along the way.

Officially called El Tren del Fin de Mundo (The End of the World Train), the train is a historic steam railway that takes passengers on a journey through Tierra del Fuego National Park in Argentina.

In fact, the railway is considered the southernmost one in the world.

And the rather morbid name comes from the it’s original purpose as a prison train.

It was built back in the early 20th century and used to transport inmates to collect timber and a number of other building materials from the forest.

They would then take these materials to construct a prison and settlement.

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But by 1947 the railway closed as a result of the prison closing.

Then in 1994, a four mile section of the track was rebuilt and opened as a tourist attraction.

Today, visitors can now ride along the railway as a sightseeing experience of Patagonia, as well as learn about the history of the train line.

The ‘End of the World Station’ is located around five miles from Ushuaia, which is where the journey begins.

Then, on the journey, passengers can see the Pipo River, the Macarena Waterfall and the ‘tree cemetery’ – an area that features a number of the stumps that were left behind by the prison inmates.

When the train crosses the Pipo River, it goes over Puente Quemado (Burned Bridge), which features the wooden remains of the old bridge beneath the newer tracks.

It then stops at La Macarena Station, where passengers can get off the train to look at the cascading waterfall and learn about the local people called Yamana.

The train journey then ends at the National Park Station, where passengers can get off and venture into Tierra del Feugo National Park.

The park entrance fee is separate to the price of the train journey, and it costs around £20.11 to enter.

On board the train, there are a number of different classes, including ‘Tourist’.

In these carriages, there are comfortable seats and large windows and audio commentary is available in multiple languages for passengers to learn about the history of the region, as well as the train.

In Premium Service, passengers get priority boarding, heated cars, food and even exclusive train souvenirs.

Passengers in this class can also asked for a private tour of the railway workshops, where they will learn about the behind-the-scenes work that keeps the train running.

If on the train at 9:30am, there is a breakfast menu with bread, croissants, yoghurt and mixed nuts.

At midday and 3pm, there is a lunch menu with dishes including lamb casserole, chicken casserole, spinach and ricotta cannelloni, pizza and empanadas.

A children’s menu is also available.

For something really special, there is a VIP service as well, where passengers receive a three-course menu and an exclusive access experience.

One recent visitor said: “This was really cool, we’d seen some of the best scenery in the world and now we were riding a miniature train to the End of the World – and I lived to tell the tale!

“There was a stop at a pretty waterfall and some funny antics by the local convicts who clearly had been left behind by the penal colony.

“I thought this was a cool thing to do, really enjoyed it.”

Another added: “A magical experience like straight out of a Christmas story, we went [when] everything was snowy beautiful [and] met wild horses on the visit.

Tickets cost around £34.63 per adult and £17.32 per child between four and 12-years-old.

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In other rail news, one of the UK’s most beautiful train journeys runs right across the beach and it costs less than £20.

Plus, these are 12 of Europe’s most beautiful train journeys are in Britain – with Victorian carriages and stargazing.

Christmas day trips could be taking families to some of the most iconic locations, as experts share the top festive itineraries less than two hours from the UK

As the festive season approaches, families could be jetting off to Europe for a Christmas adventure without even needing to book time off work or splurge on hotel stays, thanks to extreme day tripping. This travel trend sees holidaymakers spending 24 hours or less in a destination before heading back home.

Travel gurus at Iglu Cruise have pinpointed three of the top European destinations for yuletide celebrations, all within two hours by plane or train from London, and they’ve even crafted the perfect itinerary to make the most of your Christmas escape.

Cologne, Germany

This captivating city is home to some of the world’s most famous Christmas markets, and it’s just an hour and 20 minutes by plane from London. The experts suggest kicking off the day exploring Cologne’s museums, such as Museum Ludwig and the Fina Frangrace Museum.

Next, pop over to Ehrenfeld for a quick cafe stop and an afternoon Kölsch before embarking on a boat tour along the Rhine River to soak up the Christmas magic of Cologne.

Come evening, Heinzels Christmas Market comes alive with ice skating, shopping and the KölnTriangle observation deck offering stunning views of Cologne’s illuminated cathedral and twinkling Christmas lights.

Basel, Switzerland

Just an hour and 40 minutes away from London by plane, this snow-dusted fairytale town awaits, boasting a charming medieval old town that serves as the ideal starting point for your extreme day trip.

From the old town, visitors can admire the beautifully decorated courtyards, called “Magische Höfe” or “Magical Courtyards”. The city hall courtyard features a Wish Book where guests can record their Christmas wishes.

The experts then recommend visiting the Barfüsserplatz Christmas Market to sample Swiss cheese or the famous local gingerbread biscuit, followed by Christmas shopping and mulled wine from the 13-metre high Christmas Pyramid.

There’s also a free Advent production at Basel Theatre worth catching. These daily performances, running from 1st to 23rd December at 5:00 PM, feature a varied programme of small opera, drama and ballet productions.

During these dates visitors can also climb St Martin’s Tower for a small fee to enjoy a bird’s eye view of the market and the illuminated old town.

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

Just an hour and 10 minutes’ flight from London brings you to Amsterdam, where you can begin your day trip admiring the city’s iconic canals and bridges in the Jordaan district whilst enjoying breakfast.

The Museum Quarter provides plenty to occupy your morning before heading to the Winter Paradise RAI festival, where you’ll discover indoor and outdoor ice rinks, a Ferris wheel, live music, Dutch waffles and cosy winter bars.

Amsterdam’s Light Festival also transforms the city at this time of year, and the experts suggest taking an evening cruise for the best views as the spectacular decorations shimmer across the water.

Marburg, Germany. It’s a fairytale city, not only because of the hilltop castle that overlooks its cobbled streets and half-timbered houses, but also because this is where the Grimm brothers once lived and studied, starting the collection of folklore stories that would eventually become their famous anthology of fairytales. Throughout the city, sculptures – some perched in improbable places – pay homage to this past, forming a mile-long route known as the Grimm Path. It’s very much like a treasure hunt.

But on my visit to Marburg, I had a different type of treasure hunt in mind and, once done with enchanted mirrors and kissy-lipped frogs, headed straight for the SecondHand by DRK (Deutsches Rotes Kreuz – the German Red Cross) to scout for pre-owned items.

Whereas once there was a stigma to buying secondhand, nowadays it’s on trend. “Thrifted” has been tagged more than 7m times on Instagram, and accounts such as @charity_shop_life and @my.thrifted.abode have tens of thousands of followers. According to Booking.com’s 2025 travel predictions, “Thrift shopping and vintage stores are becoming a core part of the travel experience, with 73% of travellers having already purchased secondhand items while abroad”. Google data also shows that searches for destination-specific secondhand shopping – “thrifting in Berlin” or “vintage markets in Stockholm”, for example – have skyrocketed.

Guides and tour operators haven’t been slow to jump on board either – for £200, Fashion Tours London will guide you around the capital’s secondhand stores for a whole day, while Red Shed Vintage Tours and Gold Crest will set you loose on a variety of French brocantes (flea markets).

But while curated tours suit some, for me it would dampen the thrill of exploring on my own. There is bounty almost everywhere, of course, but I’ve found France great for rustic kitchen and homewares, Madrid a good hunting ground for vintage designer accessories, while in Venice it’s glassware (there’s a tiny charity shop attached to a church where I almost always find genuine pre-loved Murano glass).

The appeal of a tour also depends on how you feel about rummaging with others in tow. For me, it’s a bit like skiing: you don’t want to stop others from having a good time, but nor do you want them to affect your good time. Personally, when I’m in treasure-hunting mode, I prefer being alone, without someone sighing at my shoulder. I’ll just meet you at the bar later and reveal my finds, OK? “You’re a bit like Oscar the Grouch in the Muppets,” observed one friend. “Happiest alone in the bin.” Well, quite.

Whatever your MO, it always helps to do some research before you go – get acquainted with the names of the charity shops at your destination; look for Instagram accounts specialising in vintage. Use Google to search for pop-ups such as kilo sales, and in France use brocabrac.fr to look for brocantes calendars in the area you’re visiting – they generally move from location to location each weekend. This worked nicely for me in the summer, when the brass swans I’d been eyeing up one Sunday were still available the following week on the same stall – but in the next town.

Google Lens can be helpful, too, in determining whether the item you’ve found is genuine or worth the price being asked. Towns with an ageing population, such as Kraków and Léon, tend to have the best bargains, while capital cities and those with a university will probably have higher prices, due to the number of avid shoppers. And generally speaking, the farther out of town you travel, the better the bargains will be. I also wander the streets surrounding weekend markets as residents often capitalise on the passing footfall to set up their own little garage sales.

I’ve been buying secondhand since my early teens and it still gives me a dopamine hit: in Germany I stumbled across an ostrich leather handbag for €2, right next to a synthetic Primark one tagged €3.50; in Romania I unearthed a silk Hermès scarf in a bin full of polyester ones; and in Greece I sifted through shelves of books to find a volume of beautiful botanical drawings. An angry rooster jug I picked up for 100 krone (£12) at a market in Copenhagen remains one of my most beloved purchases. Only recently did I discover he was made in Czechoslovakia in the 1930s and that others like him have sold for close to £200 on Etsy (although there’s no way I’m ever selling mine).

One of the great delights of buying secondhand abroad is that you’ll uncover items not readily found at home and they make the best souvenirs. The vintage stoneware escargot dishes I nabbed in a market near Biarritz, for example, that now sit on my dresser holding my rings, remind me of that trip daily. I love, also, the interactions that such purchases spark. People on market stalls or in small shops tend to be far more engaging than staff in big chains and this often leads to interesting chats and fun exchanges.

“Non, non, ce n’est pas pour toi!” shrieked a woman, laughingly, at a flea market in Nantes, as I peered closely (too closely, in retrospect) at a small statue, trying to make sense of it, before realising it graphically depicted a sex act. “German,” scoffed the man on the stall in Copenhagen, as I examined a mustard pot in the form of a boy squatting with his pants down (the mustard was dispensed via his bottom).

Of course, it’s very easy to get carried away, and you need to be mindful of what you can pack and carry. On a girls’ weekend in Lisbon a few years ago, the Humana secondhand stores were so full of gems that some serious sitting on suitcases was required for the return journey – but, honestly, who in their right mind would leave an utterly perfect, €10 camel cashmere coat behind? Or a pair of Italian leather boots that actually fit?

The really impossible items – furniture, huge mirrors and ornate frames – make me sad because even I have to admit there’s no way that chaise longue or antique dressing table can be squeezed into my bag (and where shipping is available, it tends to be from slicker operations with consequently higher prices). It may well be time for a driving holiday – in a lorry. And I doubt I’m the only one with such ideas: on a recent stay at a campsite in France, the noticeboard listed a week’s worth of local brocantes and vides-greniers (“empty attics” or car boot sales).

As for the DRK in Marburg? Well, I didn’t strike gold on my own behalf – but I did for someone else. A few years ago, while travelling, I met an Australian woman as keen on secondhand shopping as I am. We’ve stayed in touch and she mentioned recently how much she likes Boden prints. Guess what was hiding on the rails? A blouse in a vibrant green pattern, tick; silk, tick; size, tick; one parcel winging its way to Oz, tick. Proof that thrifting isn’t just good for the planet and addictively fun – it’s a great way to make friends, too.