happiest

LIVING in rainy Britain, I’m not usually keen on cold- weather holiday destinations – but Copenhagen is an exception.

The autumn and winter months are where the Danish capital thrives.

Locals and tourists embrace the season, snuggling up by outdoor fires and sipping on hot chocolate or spiced Gløgg — the Scandinavian version of mulled wine.

Even in the bitter winter, Danes continue dining al fresco and sipping pints of Carlsberg, which was first brewed here in 1847.

In fact, making the most of the winter sunshine, crisp air and creating a comfy atmosphere has been factored into the way the Danish like to live, the concept of “hygge”.

Pronounced “hoo-gah”, it doesn’t have a direct translation but loosely, it is a quality of cosiness that leads to contentment and wellbeing.

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It undoubtedly forms part of the reason why Copenhagen was voted the World’s Happiest City for 2025 in the World Happy Index.

I certainly saw a lot of smiling faces as I wandered the streets.

There is even a Happiness Museum where you can learn how Copenhagen is leading the charge when it comes to cheerful citizens.

My favourite bit was the hallway of sticky notes where visitors are encouraged to write down what makes them happy, listing everything from meaningful anecdotes about friends and family to simple pleasures like cinnamon rolls and coffee.

Shopping counts as one of those simple pleasures for me and luckily, there is plenty of that here.

I suggest the Stroget district, which has all sorts of stores from luxury brands like Ganni and Gucci to ­budget-friendly alternatives.

Food is big on the happiness scale, too, and when it comes to eating in Copenhagen, you’re spoilt for choice – especially with Danish pastries.

There are around 140 bakeries on the corners of the main shopping streets and tucked away in alleyways.

Holms Bager is a great spot to try a sticky and sweet cinnamon bun with crunchy sugar pieces.

But Buka, a bakery that opened in 2019, immediately tempted me inside with its window display of pistachio-filled croissants and cream tarts.

I opted for Danish specialty Tebirkes – a brioche bun filled with rich remonce (spiced sugar paste), brushed with almond glaze and topped with poppy seeds. Delicious.

As for savoury dishes, Smorrebrod (essentially an open sandwich on rye bread) is served almost everywhere with toppings varying from prawns to pate and pickled herring.

Famous landmarks

With little time left and much of the city still to see, I headed out on a canal tour, booked through Tui as an added extra to my package break.

The tour started in the city centre and took me around the waterways to the likes of Paper Island – a new urban quarter, which is home to the most ex­pen­­sive penthouse ever sold in the city.

I saw CopenHill, the huge Opera House and went through Christianshavn before stopping by The Little Mermaid statue — although sadly, you only see the back of her from the boat.

If you want the best view, sit on the left-hand side as you board.

Not only did the tour offer me a chance to get out on the water, but I saw almost all of Copenhagen’s most famous landmarks in just one hour.

That’s the other beauty of a package getaway like my Tui one – the organisational faff is kept to a minimum with all the essentials sorted for you.

That meant less time planning and more time exploring.

I had booked a room at the well- located Admiral Hotel Copenhagen, a former grain warehouse across the water from the Opera House.

The homely, loft-style set-up featured a little living area, plus a bathroom and a mezzanine level where my double bed sat below a skylight.

The hotel is just minutes from the postcard-perfect Nyhavn – a bright district with tall colourful houses sat right on the waterfront where boat bars bob on the water.

In the evenings, fairy lights zigzag above the cobbled streets and it’s a great spot to stop for a cocktail or warming Glogg if you prefer.

The art of hygge isn’t so hard to practise when you’re in Copenhagen.

I’ve been visiting the happiest country on Earth every year since I was a baby. At first glance, Finland doesn’t seem like an obvious breeding ground for happiness. In midwinter the sun only appears for two to five hours a day and temperatures can plummet to below -20C. (It would seem a warm-year-round, sunny climate is not a prerequisite to happiness.)

The World Happiness Report is based on a survey in which people rate their satisfaction with life – and the Finns have been happiest with their lot for the last eight years. Not short of marketing savvy, Visit Finland latched on to this with a “Masterclass of Happiness” advertising campaign. And it’s probably no coincidence that Lonely Planet named Finland in its 2026 Best in Travel guide as a country “for finding happiness in wild places”.

I’m half-Finnish, and I’m interested to find out what Finns think is the secret to happiness, as well as what visitors can learn from them. I started by asking my friends and family. The answer was unanimous: “It’s because we have low expectations” – a response which speaks volumes about Finns. Direct, to the point and wry.

Of course, there are societal factors, too, such as relatively high levels of education and equality. But I see another reason, one that visitors can tap into: Finland is all about the peace of mind that comes from simple pleasures, a slower pace of life and connecting with nature.

Each summer, I look forward to visiting the woods of birch and pine trees, with moss-covered granite boulders, carpeted with ferns and blueberry and lingonberry bushes. There is the joy of spotting tiny, jewel-like wild strawberries and popping them in your mouth, where the taste explodes. Then blueberry-picking season arrives, another excuse to roam the woods, container in hand – if you don’t pop them into your mouth first. These are not plump supermarket berries; they are smaller, with the concentrated essence of the forest. Finland has a unique right to roam tradition known as Jokamiehenoikeudet (Everyman’s Right), so you can follow where the berry trail takes you as long as you respect the privacy of gardens.

Finland is gaining popularity as a “coolcation” destination – an alternative to the sweltering summer heat of the Mediterranean – although last summer it experienced a 20-day heatwave of its own, turning the lake beaches riviera-like.

The area of Finland I know best is South Karelia, most of which is in Finnish Lakeland. It is dominated by the island-dotted Lake Saimaa, the fourth largest in Europe. I love swimming in the cool, soft, deep blue water that stretches to the horizon, then warming up on a sandy beach backed by the ever-present pine and birch trees. On a warm summer’s evening, there is no place I would rather be. That is happiness.

The happiness that comes from being in the woods is backed up by science. Research shows that being among pine trees increases our feeling of relaxation and reduces stress, thanks to the compounds found in the scent of trees. It’s a further encouragement to slow down and breathe in the forest air.

Many English-speaking people know only one word of Finnish, but it’s one that is another key to the nation’s happiness: sauna (pronounced by the Finns as sow-na). The rush of endorphins released by a sauna helps Finns get through the long, dark winters. In Helsinki, one of the most popular saunas on the seafront is Löyly (the Finnish word for the steam that rises when water is thrown on the hot stove). In winter, they cut a hole in the sea ice so you can cool off by plunging in. If you visit Finland in winter, embrace the darkness, saunas and twinkling lights, and make the most of the few hours of daylight. It is magical to explore the woods, branches piled high with snow, on foot, snowshoes or cross-country skis. There’s a particular hush and stillness the snow brings. And maybe it is learning to hold the dark and light that leads to a satisfaction among Finns.

There is plenty to explore beyond lakes, forests and saunas. Helsinki is a thriving capital that blends nature with culture. The Helsinki Biennial takes place in HAM Helsinki Art Museum on Vallisaari island, a 20-minute ferry ride from the city centre. Wandering around the wooded island is a joy in itself, with the art a bonus. The next biennial is in the summer of 2027.

Last summer I stayed in the new timber-framed Sokos Hotel Pier 4 on the harbour. The rooftop garden and bar offers a 360-degree view of the sea and across the city. On a warm July evening, with a DJ playing and the sunset filling the sky well after 10pm, it is a happy place to be. Nearby in the harbour is the Allas sea pool, where you can enjoy a sauna and swim, with a choice of heated and unheated pools, depending on your level of bravery.

The Esplanadi is lined with design shops if you want to take a piece of Finnish style home with you. There are the distinctive floral patterns of Marimekko, the glassware of Iittala, and the china of Arabia, including Moomin mugs and plates.

Restaurants showcasing seasonal and local produce are thriving. My favourite is Magu, which serves a five-course plant-based tasting menu, each dish bursting with creativity. And, of course, there is coffee and cinnamon rolls to keep everyone fuelled (Finns have the highest per capita coffee consumption in the world).

There is so much of Finland I still haven’t seen. I’ve never been to Lapland, to see the autumn colours and northern lights. I’d love to explore the wilds of north Karelia, go canoeing on Lake Saimaa and cycle around the Lakeland area. I have sailed through Baltic archipelagos on the ferry from Stockholm to Helsinki, but I’ve never spent time on the islands themselves. But then maybe a bucket list approach is not in keeping with the Finnish ethos – their happiness comes from familiarity, getting to know a place intimately, which is why so many Finns return to their summer cabins year after year.

The Moomins, the lovable children’s characters created by Tove Jansson, are one of Finland’s most famous exports. Moomintroll lived by a simple ethos: “I only want to live in peace, plant potatoes and dream.” Happiness is a choice we can make, and that’s what I’ve learned from the Finns and being in Finland – it’s not the pursuit of happiness that makes you happy, it’s being in the moment, letting go of striving, letting go of expectations. Breathe in the trees. Plunge in cold water. Wake up and smell the coffee. Make a snow angel. Watch the sun setting into the blue expanse of a lake. That is happiness, Finnish-style.

Olivia Sprinkel’s book, To Hear the Trees Speak, is published by Bedford Square (£18.99). To support the Guardian, buy a copy from guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply