Gods

Some stories never get old. The poems and songs from Greek mythology – tales of tragedy, love and loss, war and revenge, jealous gods, magic and monsters – have been retold through the ages for good reason. Like all stories that really resonate, they deal in the flawed nature of humankind.

To the ancients, though, they were far more than legends; they explained the universe. From the Earth’s origins and the stories of constellations to ideas of justice and morality, they shaped the arts and sciences, and carved a shared cultural identity. Visiting Greece today, it’s clear how deeply rooted the myths still are in modern culture. From the capital (named after wise Athena) and beyond, this is a country steeped in legends.

Blaze a trail in the footsteps of heroes and monsters, but pay due respect to the gods – particularly Zeus (king of all, commanding the sky), and his brothers Poseidon (ruler of oceans) and Hades (overseer of the underworld) – lest, like Odysseus, you inadvertently anger them and spend the next 10 years trying to get home.

Navel gaze with Zeus at Delphi

When Zeus wanted to find the world’s centre, the story goes that he released a pair of eagles. One flew east; the other west. They met “in the middle” – on the slopes of Mount Parnassus, at Delphi, navel of the ancient Greek world. While Athens’ Acropolis occupied Greece’s political centre, Delphi was its spiritual heart. Apollo established his temple here, and the seat of the oracle. Anyone seeking guidance – from lowly shepherds worrying about their goats to kings mulling matters of state – headed up the mountain to consult Apollo through his tongue-speaking vapour-sniffing priestess Pythia. Answers were considered divine truth, but notoriously cryptic (a bit rich after a three-day slog).

Today’s pilgrims are better-served by the present-day town of Delphi, beside the stunning archaeological site. Its tavernas and hotels, terraced into the southern edge of the cliffside, share the jaw-dropping panorama. Eat, drink and seek guidance at Apollo’s old pillars. Gawp at the impressive amphitheatre, framed by the peaks of Mount Kirfi, and the Pleistos valley below (a million-strong grove of ancient olive trees). Gaze west as the sun sets over the Corinthian gulf. Eagles or no eagles, you will feel yourself at the centre of the universe.
Where to stay: Kastalia Boutique Hotel, Delphi, doubles from £62 room-only, kastaliahotel.gr

Bathe in Hades’ river in Epirus

When the infernal heat of July and August hits, the only reasonable response is a refreshing dunk in a shady river. I favour the Acheron (as recommended by Circe to Odysseus when he needed a fast route into the underworld). Seek out this “River of Woe” – one of the five rivers encircling Hades’ realm of the dead. Not the happiest destination for the poor souls Hermes delivered to its banks, a coin for the ferryman clamped in their cold dead mouths. But for us? Absolutely delightful.

Cool, clear waters wind from the Tomares mountains, through the Acheron valley and out to sea. Its banks are fringed by lush forest and verdant hillsides. Visit Mesopotamos for the Necromanteion (oracle of the dead) and the fishing hamlet of Ammoudia where the river slows and spreads out to a delta (watch for otters) before pouring into the deep blue sea.

Swim, raft or zipline at the scenic Acheron Springs near Glyki. Head into the mountains, to the historic Souli watermills, and a laid-back taverna or Paradosiako, (literally a “traditional cafe”) by a stream, all rough-hewn tabletops on giant stones.

For the most magical trip, round the mountain to the Gates of Hades, where the river cuts through towering limestone cliffs, like an entrance to the other realm. Electric-blue dragonflies, bright butterflies and raptors fly overhead. Strong currents and deeper pools mean that some care is needed. Like Orpheus, Heracles and Odysseus, you’ll want to make sure to return from the underworld.
Where to stay: Atman Eco Lodge, near Glyki, doubles from £103 room-only, atmangreece.com

Float up to Nestor’s cave at Pylos

Homer’s “Sandy Pylos” is a handsome seaside town with a great deal going for it. Strategically placed inside the deep, well-protected – and gorgeous – Navarino bay, it was the site of a triumphant naval battle against the Ottoman empire during the war of Greek independence (proud locals re-enact it each October). It features prominently in both the Odyssey and the Iliad as the manor of wise old King Nestor (Nestor’s Palace, nearby, is Greece’s best preserved Mycenaean monument). It’s also an easy distance for a day trip to ancient Messine, a wonderful and underrated archaeological site.

Guarding Pylos itself is the well-preserved Ottoman castle, Niokastro, but I prefer the old ruined Paliokastro to the north of the bay. It overlooks Voidokilia, a bay where turtles nest. No sunbeds, no cafes, just piles of soft sandy dunes, backed by wetlands hosting hundreds of migratory birds and rare reptiles. You’ll want to go down there. Nestor’s cave is here, the spot where a precocious infant Hermes hid the cattle he stole from Apollo. If you can’t face another ascent, float in turquoise water and stare up at its gaping entrance.
Where to stay: Dio Pigadia ecovillage and farm, cottages from €50 a night, tiny cabins from €25, dio-pigadia.com

Marvel at Mycenae’s Lion Gate

Mycenae, the bronze-age citadel, is steeped in myth, founded, the ancients believed, by Perseus, son of Zeus. This is the legendary homeland of Agamemnon, king of “well-built Mycenae, rich in gold” as Homer had it (archaeological excavations confirmed his accuracy). The acropolis straddles a hilltop in the Argolid plain, overlooking the Saronic gulf’s approaches towards Nafplion and Argos. Strategic for the Mycenaeans, breathtaking for us.

You’ll want to stop at the Lion Gate entrance, an impressive example of megalithic architecture: a pair of lions are sculpted in stone relief. I stood with my father and stared. He always found the myths rather nonsensical, but even he had pause for thought at these Cyclopean walls, colossal blocks, 20 tonnes apiece.

Inside are the ancient palace ruins, the tomb of Clytemnestra and the treasury of Atreus. Admire Mycenaean craftsmanship and culture in the museum – excavated artefacts include tablets in Linear B (the earliest attested form of written Greek). Don’t miss the copy of Agamemnon’s golden funeral mask (the original is in Athens).
Where to stay: Grand Sarai hotel in Nafplion, doubles from £130 B&B, grandsarainafplio.com

Poseidon’s love shack on Paxos

This is one for the romantics and lovers of nature – and is a laid-back holiday. It’s a rare treat to see the gods’ softer side, and the ridiculously pretty island of Paxos came about thanks to Poseidon at his most tender. The usually raging, storm-stirring god created this little Eden (now a protected site) in the throes of passion – his trident is the island’s emblem. Smitten at first sight by the sea nymph Amphitrite, who fled to the deepest ocean to evade him, a deeply infatuated Poseidon sent Delphin, a kind of charming dolphin, in pursuit to talk up his good side. It worked – she returned, as his queen (and mother of dolphins and seals).

Poseidon struck off the southern tip of Corfu to form Paxos – effectively one large olive grove – as their love nest, and placed Delphinus among the stars as a reward. Honour the couple by enjoying that uncannily turquoise sea, snorkel over beautiful (and protected) posidonia seagrass meadows, and look out for the dolphins that are often seen here (depicted pulling Amphitrite’s chariot along with seahorses that are very occasionally spotted in the area).

The famous blue caves here are said to be the pair’s love-shack-cum-palace, and attract numerous boat trips in season. Take care on approach to avoid disturbance to sealife. Visit lovely Lakka for its horseshoe bay and Gaios, the pretty little main town. End your days stargazing and remember to toast the five-starred Dolphin constellation in thanks for this paradise.
Where to stay: Village Life Penthouse from €195, paxosownersdirect.com

Susan Smillie’s book, The Half Bird, recounts her sailing voyage from the UK to Greece, and the mythical destinations she encountered along the way. To support the Guardian, order your copy at guardianbookshop.com. Delivery charges may apply

New Delhi, India – Brajesh Kumar climbs three floors every evening to sit in solitude on the rooftop terrace of his house overlooking the Ram Temple in Ayodhya in northern India’s Uttar Pradesh.

Over decades, the 65-year-old has seen the once-sleepy town metamorphose into the biggest flashpoint of the Hindu majoritarian movement, championed by Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP). Where the temple stands used to be the site of the 16th-century Babri Mosque, but in 1992 a Hindu mob tore it down, sparking religious riots that killed nearly 2,000 people across the country, mostly Muslims.

Two and a half years ago, Modi presided over the consecration ceremony of the new temple, devoted to the Hindu god Ram. Many Hindus believe Ram, the god worshipped as an epitome of righteousness, was born there.

To Hindu devotees like Kumar, the temple – despite the controversy and deaths that defined its birth – brought a sense of serenity.

Until recently.

For the past month, the temple has been embroiled in allegations that those entrusted with its management have instead embezzled donations worth potentially millions of dollars that the site attracted from devotees.

“We have been betrayed [by the management], who have looted our faith, nothing less,” Kumar told Al Jazeera. “Left to them, they will sell us all one day in the name of religion and stuff their own pockets.”

The allegations have led to police investigations, arrests and political fallout that could shape elections in India’s most populous state that are only months away.

Ayodhya’s can of worms

Since its inauguration, the Ram Temple has been among the top religious sites in India, attracting millions of Hindu devotees.

An independent trust, the Shri Ram Janmabhoomi Teerth Kshetra Trust, manages the shrine. Although it is outside the purview of the government, its executive members wield political influence, and some of them come from the Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh, the ideological wellspring of the BJP.

The corruption allegations first surfaced this month after Mahipal Singh, a former supervisor of the trust’s accounting team, publicly called out irregularities. Al Jazeera could not reach him for comment.

After a public uproar, Akhilesh Yadav, a former chief minister of Uttar Pradesh from the opposition Samajwadi Party, picked up the issue, alleging that millions of rupees in donations had gone missing.

The mounting pressure pushed the state government, ruled by the BJP, to form a three-member investigation team, which has submitted a report on the alleged misappropriation of donations.

Although the content of the report has not been made public, the state police registered a criminal case and have arrested at least eight people, including those involved in counting cash and valuable offerings at the temple.

More devotees have come forward since, seeking the whereabouts of their valuables, including silver bricks and gold jewellery and artefacts, that they had handed over to the trust’s executives.

On Friday, the trust’s longstanding general secretary, Champat Rai, stepped down with other high-profile trustees. The allegations have been particularly damning for Rai, who has been a central figure in the movement for the Ram Temple.

But it has done little to cool down the tensions in the state, where thousands of devotees, including some BJP supporters, feel cheated.

‘Cunning thieves running Ram Temple’

Santosh Dubey was among those tried for tearing down the Babri Mosque in 1992. He has never shied away from his role and instead has flaunted it.

After the mosque’s demolition, Dubey waited for a final verdict about what was to happen to the site from the courts, where both sides fought bitterly for decades. In 2019, the Supreme Court awarded the site to Hindus – even though it deemed the destruction of the mosque illegal. The top court gave a piece of land to Muslims outside Ayodhya to build a new mosque. In 2020, Dubey and others accused of roles in demolishing the mosque were acquitted — the court cited a lack of adequate evidence.

If those verdicts felt like vindication to Dubey, the alleged embezzlement at the temple has enraged him.

“This corruption causes me deep anguish, a pain that words cannot express,” Dubey told Al Jazeera, speaking from Ayodhya. “All I can say is that nothing less than the death penalty would suffice for them.”

“Cunning, dishonest and ruthless thieves are running the Ram Temple, and they have created such an atmosphere of fear that no one is willing to speak out against them,” he said.

Dubey said the government will struggle to ignore the anger among devotees because the episode batters the BJP’s narrative that it is a saviour of the Hindu faith.

This is not the first time that the temple trust has been the subject of controversy. In 2021, the trust allegedly bought land at highly inflated prices using public donations.

BJP spokespeople refused to comment on the recent allegations when Al Jazeera reached them.

‘Impact on upcoming election’

Devotees of the temple and critics of the government are accusing authorities of attempting a cover-up.

Opposition leader Yadav described the state government’s initial handling of the case as “suspicious”. “The government is arresting the counting staff while shielding the big fish who orchestrated the structural rot,” Yadav said while demanding transparency in the investigation.

Karpatri Maharaj, a prominent Hindu seer associated with the Ram Temple movement, told Al Jazeera that the government is using junior employees as scapegoats and arresting them.

Uttar Pradesh, India’s most populous state, is led by the firebrand Hindu monk-turned-politician Yogi Adityanath, who is often seen as a potential successor to Modi within the RSS-led Hindu majoritarian movement known as Hindutva.

Modi’s party lost a significant base in the state in the 2024 national elections when the BJP fell short of a majority, forcing it to rely on allies’ support to stay in power.

For the BJP, which has long used the campaign for the Ram Temple as a central political plank, the new controversy could prove a challenge before elections in Uttar Pradesh scheduled for early next year, political analyst Rasheed Kidwai said.

“It would have a massive negative impact on the BJP if more religious leaders came forward to speak on this,” Kidwai told Al Jazeera. “This is not something that would be forgotten because it is a matter of faith, and the state chief comes from a religious order himself.”

The episode carries broader lessons, he said: Pandering to religious emotions and fanning divisions can bite back. “What has been benefitting the BJP in these years can also cause immense damage,” Kidwai said.

Migration has been a central theme throughout Pope Leo’s weeklong tour of Spain.

Pope Leo has warned human traffickers that they will face God’s wrath if they continue to exploit desperate African people trying to reach Europe via Spain’s Canary Islands.

On Friday, his second day in the Canary Islands, the pontiff said that he wanted to directly address those who “take advantage of people’s desperation [or] organise death routes”.

Throughout his weeklong tour of Spain, the American pope has insisted on the inherent dignity and rights of migrants, urging global leaders to welcome and integrate them into society.

“Stop. Repent,” said Pope Leo. “For every life lost, every family deceived … you will have to appear before divine justice.”

“Repent while there is still time,” he said, invoking the Catholic belief that someone who committed evil acts in life can confess their sins and make amends or be sent to hell upon their death.

Leo was visiting the Canary Islands, a Spanish archipelago off the western coast of Africa, as the culmination of a three-stop tour of Spain.

The islands are one of the main gateways into Europe for migrants, who risk a deadly journey across the waters of the Atlantic Ocean, often in improvised and overcrowded small craft.

Earlier, the first man from the United States to lead the Roman Catholic Church, warned world leaders that history would condemn those who allowed people fleeing war or poverty to suffer.

Located more than 1,000km (620 miles) from mainland Spain, the Canaries saw migration peak in 2024, when the islands received 46,843 migrants, compared with fewer than 1,000 in 2015, according to official data.

More than 3,000 people died last year trying to reach the islands, according to the NGO Caminando Fronteras.

The pope also visited an interim housing centre in Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands, to hear testimonies from migrants. The facility has received some 70,000 people since it opened in 2021.

One woman, Bousso Diouf, told Pope Leo that migrants did not want special privileges but “respect, humanity and the opportunity to live with dignity.”