Forest

‘Living proof damaged landscapes can recover’: exploring a vast restored forest in southern Sweden | Sweden holidays

From the bus window, the ridge looks like a giant slumbering beast stretched deep green across the flat farmland. “It feels alive,” I say to the woman beside me. “Yes,” she answers. “It is where you would run for safety, don’t you think?”

I am in southern Sweden to explore Söderåsen national park, established in 2001 to protect more than 1,600 hectares (4,000 acres) of the larger Söderåsen ridgeline. Shaped over millennia by immense geological collisions, fractures, volcanic eruptions and ice ages, today it is one of northern Europe’s largest continuous protected broadleaf forests, and only 90 minutes by car from Copenhagen or, in my case, two hours by public transport.

The little village of Röstånga at the gateway to the park is where travellers stop for supplies from the supermarket before disappearing into the forest on foot, bike or horseback, and people gather for food, live music and art.

My room for the first night is in Villa Söderåsen, a grand timber-framed yellow and white guesthouse, which has stood at the park’s entrance since 1904. It was built for tourists arriving via the new railway in search of connection to nature. Sebastian and Åsa, the owners, want to continue that tradition. “We humans are as loud as elephants in the wood,” says Sebastian. “Sit quietly for half an hour and see what happens.”

That evening, I eat with strangers at long wooden tables outside the hip restaurant and live music venue Stationen. Music drifts out of open doors, adults chat around the fire, children run circles around us.

Pool of mystery … the ‘bottomless’ lake of Odensjön (Odin’s Eye). Photograph: Coco Neal

The next morning, Åsa recommends I take a dip in Odensjön (Odin’s Eye) Lake. “Some say it is bottomless,” she says. It’s almost perfectly round, edged by steep beech-covered slopes, and fed by underground springs. Fifteen minutes into the forest and I am there.

A woman making her way back to the village says: “There is a rock in the water, heated by the sun, sit there, let your body adjust.”

Grasshoppers trill, spider silk trails from branches, noble chafer beetles glimmer like the aurora borealis, a dragonfly rests electric-blue on my now empty walking boots. I swim, the circle of blue sky rippling, and emerge ready for anything.

A few years ago, scientists obtained a sediment core from the bottom of the lake, providing detailed information from the past 600 years of land-use history. This showed that in the 18th and 19th centuries the plateau was largely deforested. I would have been walking across a heath, repeatedly burned to improve grazing grounds. It is difficult to imagine as I move through endless layers of beech, interspersed at times with birch, oak and rowan, mossy trunks, roots like octopuses.

Once I start searching, the signs of human history are everywhere too, from hollow ways to clearance cairns and dry-stone walls.

Two hours of hiking later, I arrive at the second entrance to the park: Skäralid, a rift valley. The visitor centre Naturum, packed with information and playful exhibits, shares its premises with Café Italia. Both look out onto a picturesque dam. A ranger explains that much of the initial conservation efforts since designation as a national park involved the felling of non-native Norway spruce and the planting of broadleaved trees in its stead.

Green idyll … Several hiking trails weave through the woodlands of Söderåsen national park. Photograph: Nick Gregory/Alamy

In search of solitude, I choose the wilder three-hour Hjortsprångsrundan or Deer Leap circular, a trail named after a prehistoric hunting method where people drove game over a narrow cliff shelf. I pick my way along it, across heather and bilberry, to perch on the hard gneiss bedrock that blushes a startling mineral pink. A buzzard swoops down from the branch of a gnarled oak.

The descent is like scrambling and slipping back through time into an entirely other world. Many of these slopes managed to escape the historical land clearances and thus are the closest to ancient woodland. But all around this area, ferns, lichen, fungi, seeds and spores are recolonising the land.

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The scree slopes are dotted with springs pushed up from a subterranean lake and laced with streams that feed into the Skärån river. The scent in the bottom of the valley is heady, sweet and damp, bringing with it a keen awareness of how much is always happening just out of sight.

I rest on a wooden walkway, pop a wild raspberry in my mouth and watch a slowworm the length of my forearm slither past. Then, a sudden crashing through undergrowth. Wolf? Wild boar? Moose? A young stag steps from a pocket of alder trees, pawing the ground. We look at one another. The sun drops, and as it does its light rises up the walls of the ravine.

Rooted … broadleaved woodland has replaced earlier spruce plantations. Photograph: Coco Neal

My room for the second night is in Söderåsens Skafferi, a vandrarhem, or wanderer’s home. The house glows like a lantern on the edge of the dark wood. The owner Elisabeth, who spent her childhood exploring Söderåsen on horseback, says the house was once the first nature school in Sweden.

On my final morning I climb to Kopparhatten, the park’s highest viewpoint at 212 metres, and hold up a booklet with an image of a painting from 1840 of this same vista, almost bare of trees. “We used to holiday in the south,” a couple tell me. “But we’re searching for cooler climates now.” I wonder what stories they will bring home.

Summer, all green infusion; autumn, rust and gold; winter, snow and stone; spring, wood anemones and paper-thin leaves. The national park feels like living proof that damaged landscapes can recover if nature, and humans, are given half a chance.

Accommodation was provided by Villa Söderåsen (doubles from 1,095 Swedish Kronor, about £85, B&B). Coco also stayed at Söderåsens Skafferi (doubles from around £78). Söderåsen national park has multiple wild campsites with wind shelters and barbecue areas. For information on public transport access, visit skanetrafiken.se

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I went to the BEST family-friendly festival in the UK with secret forest raves, mega star shows & bright pink sheep

HUGE headliners. Gorgeous Suffolk countryside. Woodland spas. Entire fairgrounds, theatre and comedy tents. Oh, and fluffy pink sheep.

If you’re looking for the UK’s best family festival, you’ve found it at Latitude.

Latitude Festival is famous for its signature pink sheep that graze the grasses by the river Credit: Alamy Live News
The festival even has its own zen zone with massage tents, saunas, yoga sessions and more Credit: Jenna Stevens

I visited the festival this year to celebrate its 20th birthday, and as a first-timer, it truly surprised me.

This year I sang my heart out to sets from Tom Odell and Lewis Capaldi, but over the years, the festival has hosted artists like The 1975, Liam Gallagher and Florence + The Machine.

Pair those headline sets with DJ sets from Dermot O’Leary and Gok Wan, and you’ve got yourself a pretty interesting line-up across the festival’s six music stages.

The thing that struck me the most about this festival was just how family-friendly it is.

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At the very front of the main stage, you’ve got dedicated superfans stood against the barrier.

Zoom to the outer edges of the crowd, and you’ve got multi-generational families sat on camping chairs and picnic blankets, with pully trolleys packed with snacks, toys and games.

And when I say this is an all ages festival, I mean ALL ages.

I saw pairs of grandparents slow-dancing together as well as tiny toddlers grooving on the grass.

Those who wanted to stay out late or head to over 18’s zones could do just that, whilst those who want to peel off early to put the kids to bed can easily do so, too.

Lewis Capaldi performed as a headline act for this year’s festival, celebrating 20 years of Latitude Credit: Alamy
The Trailer Park stage hosts exciting sets from up-and-coming bands like Grooveline, who hail from County Leitrim in Ireland Credit: Jenna Stevens

It was refreshing to find a festival where you can enjoy huge headline acts such as Lewis Capaldi and David Byrne, and not get caught up in the pushing, shoving and moshing that comes with other UK festivals.

Although – if you are wanting that vibe – head to the Trailer Park late at night, where alternative and up-and-coming acts like Grooveline put on incredible, high-energy sets.

This is also the area of the woods that’s best for exploring, where you’ll find everything from a redneck oracle offering life advice, to a rat-themed caravan hosting a rat-themed rave.

I won’t lie, this exploration was done during the early hours of the morning and I was starting to question my own eyes. But I can assure you that the Trailer Park, in all of its randomness, is real.

There’s even a secret, apres-ski themed stage that plays dance music and blasts fake snow over the crowd – accessible only by crawling through an unsuspecting ski shed.

Forgetting the chaos of the nighttime escapades, this festival experience can also be as relaxed as you want it to be.

Maybe it’s the chilled Suffolk countryside that puts everyone at ease, but this festival has an incredibly relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

There’s even free punting trips along the river, where you’ll cruise by a floating stage that puts on experimental art performances and classical music from a live orchestra.

You can even go punting for free at the festival Credit: Jenna Stevens
The top-secret apres-ski stage is found by entering an abandoned-looking ski shed Credit: Jenna Stevens

And if you really want to unwind, there’s an entire wellness area dedicated to just that.

Slip through sparkling streamers into the zen zone and find food trucks serving nourishing smoothies, massage tents, saunas and daytime yoga sessions.

My favourite part of this zone was the “peace tree”, draped in flowers and colourful hangings, with soft cushions scattered across the grass beneath it.

It’s the ideal spot for a quick moment of meditation (or, let’s be honest, to retreat to when you’ve had one too many drinks).

Here, you can simply lie back on the earth, rest your head on a cushion, and breathe – and don’t worry, no one will judge if your quick lie-down turns into a full afternoon snooze.

To the left of the zen zone you’ll find the comedy tent, where you can catch a stand-up show from both budding talent and big names.

I managed to catch a set from the hilarious Sue Perkins, which started with all things Bake Off and ended on embarrassing, behind-the-scenes moments from her Netflix travel show.

Just a few minutes’ walk from the comedy tent will take you to the massive dedicated kids area, which is packed with free workshops, theatre shows and more from 10am – 6pm daily.

The festival even has its own fairground for kids with a helter skelter and more Credit: Jenna Stevens
Jenna and friend Georgia stayed in the Pink Moon campsite Credit: Jenna Stevens

The baby and toddler tent offers a sheltered soft play plus areas to feed, change and even bathe the little ones.

For older kids, there’s a fairground with a giant helter skelter, plus a kids theatre tent with song and dance workshops, arts and crafts activities and pop-up Punch and Judy shows.

Over in the forest, you’ll find bushcraft skills, pop-up museums and interactive space and science stations. All in all, it’s pretty impossible for kids to get bored here.

When it comes to camping, there’s plenty of options.

There’s general weekend camping, plus dedicated family camping zones, ideal if you have children aged 16 and under in your group.

The family camping zone has its own ‘Enchanted Garden’ area with extra activities, plus it’s only a short walk from here into the main arena, which is ideal for those with little legs.

I stayed in the Pink Moon glamping area, which is well worth it if you’re looking to treat yourself.

Here there’s plenty of sparklingly-clean loos and showers, plus lounge zones with sofas and a dedicated pamper tent, complete with mirrors, hairdryers and straighteners that are yours to use.

As for food and drink, you’re pretty spoilt for choice here.

One food stall even offers a build-your-own picnic Credit: Jenna Stevens
For a slice of home comforts, grab a big roast pork dinner from Roasthost Credit: Jenna Stevens

Stonebaked pizzas, macaroni cheese bowls, loaded jacket potatoes, coconut curries, duck wraps, fluffy Biscoff pancakes…my mouth is watering just thinking back to the meals I had.

Expect food festival prices, but my top recommendations would be to grab a salted maple iced latte from Pantha Coffee (£5), and indulge in home comforts with a full-on roast dinner from Roasthost (£18).

You can even just grab a side of roasties with gravy and cauli-cheese for a cheeky snack (£10).

Or head to The Local Larder by the kids zone to pack your own picnic, where you can put together a lunch of scotch eggs, sausage rolls, cheese twists, salads, pastries and more.

Ultimately, Latitude Festival can be whatever you make it.

Want a wholesome family camping weekend where the kids have a fairground and woodland workshops on their doorstep? Sorted.

Or days of drinking at waterfront wine bars, going punting, catching a few DJ and comedy sets thne ending the night by dancing to drum and bass? That’s easily done, too.

All of this in a fantastical woodland setting dotted with pink sheep, hidden forest raves and floating river stages – I’d say that’s a recipe for a pretty magical weekend.

Latitude 2027 Early Bird tickets go on sale on August 13 at 10am.

Day tickets start from £110 for adults and £18 for children.

General weekend camping tickets start at £308 for adults and £28 for kids, which covers four nights of camping plus entry to all free performances, workshops and activities.

Pink Moon camping starts from £285 per adult for the weekend, excluding a festival entry ticket.

See latitudefestival.com.

Booking Latitude? Try Klarna

Klarna lets you split up the payments for your festival tickets, plus their debit card is packed with travel benefits.

Spread out your festival ticket payments by using Klarna, which offers flexible payment options such as splitting the cost of your ticket into three payments.

You can purchase Latitude tickets directly through the Klarna app, or choose Pay with Klarna at checkout.

For even more travel benefits, check out the Klarna Card.

The Klarna Card charges no foreign exchange fees, so you can tap abroad without worrying about any extra charges.

The card is accepted in over 200 countries, wherever Visa payments are accepted.

Pair it with a Klarna membership and you’ll also get travel insurance, cancel for any reason cover plus airport lounge access.

See klarna.com/uk/.

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I stayed in a treetop cabin in Norway’s fairytale forest and learned the Nordic art of slowing down

Less than two hours from Oslo airport, PAN’s sky-high forest cabins offer hot tubs, canoe trips, wildlife spotting and a lesson in slowing down.

What is the lure of a treehouse? Is it the memory of climbing trees, higher and higher into the secret world of pinecones and canopy? Or something more primordial – not just admiring nature from a distance, but becoming part of it?

In the depths of the Norwegian forests, there are many places to escape into wilderness, but few are as beguiling as PAN’s Treetop Cabins. Three futuristic prisms, eight metres up on metal frames. Up here, you’re level with the treetops, and the world falls away. They have an otherworldly, science-fiction feel, yet they’re discreet. You come upon them suddenly, before they merge secretively back among the pines.

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Less than two hours drive from Oslo airport, they stand on a hillside of Finnskogen, a vast forest nudging up against the Swedish border. These woods have an ancient feel – silent and still. It’s easy to understand Norway’s guiding philosophy of friluftsliv here – that wellbeing is found outdoors.

Sleeping in the sky

Inside, each lodge is the perfect tiny house – a pocketsize kitchen and living area at the front, the bathroom in the centre section with a spacious shower. The walls are pine-clad and it all has that Scandinavian sleekness: everything you need, nothing you don’t. On the upper platform, the double bed overlooks the triangular view.

Oh, that view. Pan is the kind of place where you can feel happy filling your time with very little. You can while away a whole afternoon curled up on the sofa, watching the birds flit between branches, and the sun peel out over the lake below. It’s fascinating in any weather. We had blue-sky sunshine, sunsets and a storm that rolled in over the horizon like slate sheets. It hit the lake and we watched from afar, cosy in our sky-high retreat. I put my phone down, opened the floor-to-ceiling window, listened to the hush of the forest and read a whole book in one sitting.

Embracing the cabin life

Meals can be as hands-on or hands-off as you choose. The cabins are stocked with essentials, but PAN can also arrange breakfast hampers and catering from local producers. We woke to a basket of fresh bread, pancakes, local cheeses and honey, and in the evening I made elk stew with juniper berries, to their neatly measured recipe.

In the simple, pared-back cabin life, cooking and eating together felt celebratory, with the panorama of forest and lake beneath us. As evening settled over the trees, we lingered over dinner by the window, watching the changing light on the water long after the plates were empty.

At ground level, we found a table dotted with tall candles in glass lanterns, to light up al fresco suppers. Off-season, you can barbecue here (not in summer, to prevent wildfires), but any time of year you can lie out on the fur-clad seats, pull up a blanket and watch a billion stars overhead.

Exploring Norway’s ancient forest

There is much to pack quiet days with. Bicycles await to pedal the wooded paths, but we loved just walking. This forest is special. Centuries ago, Finnish refugees were drawn here, bringing myths and folklore with them. The silence is immense, the lichen underfoot puffs green dust, and sometimes a strange mist hangs in the distance, as though a forest spirit has shifted its form, just as you came upon it.

There are still wolves, bears and lynx, moose, foxes and arctic hares. We saw the latter two – not the rest to my chagrin. Our host explained we wouldn’t – “They know how to disappear when they hear you coming,” she commiserated.

But the highlight for me was the ‘Room with Three Walls’ – the outdoor, wood-fired hot tub. The fourth wall is the forest, the ceiling is the sky, and sitting in the steaming water as the forest turns gold in the sunset, with a glass of something sparkling in my hand (which, heads up, I bought at the duty free in London because booze is mighty spenny over in Norway), was holiday perfection.

A river safari through the wilderness

We signed up for an evening canoe down the Fløgåa River, sharing a boat with our guide, Amund. We pushed off into the dark waters and floated quietly downstream. Along the journey, signs of beavers were everywhere – dams of muddled twigs and neat points on felled tree trunks you’d need a Black & Decker to be able to recreate, though the elusive creatures refused to materialise.

By now, we were used to the silent stillness of the Finnskogen, but on the river, with the gentle lap of the oar and the forested bank reflected in the depths, it felt closer than ever. As we approached the final bend, Amund hissed, “There. On the left,” and a fat beaver trundled down his slipway and submerged into the current with barely a ripple.

On the journey home: Norway’s famous buns and Europe’s only emerald mine

A final tip if you’re driving the route back to the airport, along the shores of Norway’s largest lake, Mjosa. There are two stops enroute, both bizarre… and unmissable.

For a sweet treat, pull into the service station at Espa (suspend your disbelief) for Norway’s most famous bakery, Bolleland. It’s packed with neon ‘I [heart] Bolleland’ merch that lends it a crazed vibe, but the chocolate and caramel buns are legendary.

Don’t scoff them in the car, head to the emerald mines – Ole Jørgen Bjørnstad Smaragdgruvene, where you can eat them on the stony lakeshore while you sift for small – yet genuine – emeralds. It’s the only such mine in Europe where you can keep anything you find. A viridescent souvenir of the forestlands.

How to book PAN’s treetop cabins

PAN’s Cabins are available from £480 per night. Breakfast and meals available at an extra cost. Book your river kayak (and other nature experiences) through Pan.

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Rafael Mir: Ex-Wolves & Forest striker jailed for eight-and-a-half years for sexual assault

Former Wolves and Nottingham Forest striker Rafael Mir has been sentenced to eight-and-a-half years in prison after he was found guilty of sexual assault.

Mir, 28, and his friend Pablo Jara were both arrested in September 2024 after two women accused them of sexual assault at Mir’s home.

Mir’s lawyer said at the time that the intercourse was consensual and that Mir categorically denied the accusations.

In a statement released on Monday, a Valencia court said Mir “sexually assaulted one of the women in the swimming pool and in a bathroom” at his house in Betera after he and Jara met the women at a nightclub in Valencia.

Mir was playing at Valencia on loan from Sevilla at the time of his arrest.

The former Spain Under-23 striker received a seven-year prison sentence for sexual assault and a one-year and six-month sentence for assault causing bodily harm.

Mir, who was also ordered to pay 64,000 euro (£55,000) as compensation for the victim, can appeal the sentence.

“I disagree with the ruling and we will appeal in the coming days. I continue to have faith in the justice system,” Mir posted on Instagram on Monday.

Mir moved to Wolves from Valencia in 2018, but played only four times for the club.

He joined Sevilla in 2021 following loan spells at Nottingham Forest, Las Palmas and Huesca during his time at Wolves, while he was also part of Spain’s team at the Tokyo Olympics.

The forward currently plays for La Liga side Elche, on loan from Sevilla.

In response to Mir’s sentence, Sevilla stated its “utmost respect for judicial proceedings and expresses our firm and unequivocal condemnation of any type of violence, abuse, or sexual assault”.

“Such conduct has no place in our society or in the values promoted by sport,” the club’s statement added.

Jara received a two-year sentence for sexual assault against a second victim and a further six months for an offence against moral integrity, as well as ordering him to pay a 6,280 euro (£5,400) fine.

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Elliot Anderson: Manchester City have opening bid rejected by Nottingham Forest

City have long been admirers of Newcastle academy graduate Anderson. The player is currently preparing for the tournament in the US, Canada and Mexico, but club-to-club talks can continue to take place.

Captain Bernardo Silva’s exit means City are looking to bolster their midfield and Anderson tops the list of potential targets.

Newcastle midfielder Sandro Tonali is another player understood to be highly rated by City, with reports, external suggesting the Italy international has been monitored as a long-term target.

Nico Gonzalez, who missed out on a place in the Spain squad for the World Cup and also fell out of favour under Pep Guardiola last season, may depart if the right offer comes in.

Sources indicate City are also looking to sign a right-back to supplement Matheus Nunes, 28, who excelled in the position this season after being converted from midfield.

City are eyeing the profile of a young full-back and one who is a natural in that position that can grow into the role in the future.

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We’re going on a Bosnian bear hunt … in Europe’s oldest forest | Bosnia and Herzegovina holidays

‘I know this bear. He knows me. We’ve met several times.” Our guide for the day points to a damaged sign in Sutjeska national park, at the beginning of the trail that descends to the forest of Perućica in south-east Bosnia. The wooden post is covered in scratches from large claws. “Bears are the sharks of the land, because they have the keenest sense of smell on the mountain. They are highly intelligent. I’m deeply persuaded that they know who is a friend and who is a foe. I come often to the forest, so this guy knows my smell. But there was one incident, a hunter who came here to kill, and a bear peeled off his face like an orange.”

With that image, Dejan Elez commands our full attention. A Bosnian Serb law graduate turned ranger and now mountain guide, he is a born storyteller and raconteur. My travel companion, Chris, and I are rapt as he describes the famous battle that was fought near here, when Yugoslav partisans broke through a German encirclement in 1943, taking the Wehrmacht by surprise under cover of a violent storm – “the wind was rising and the lightning was like a strobe” – but after that, Dejan’s narrative leads much further back in time, into the depths of one of Europe’s most ancient forests.

Bear sightings are more likely in spring, when they emerge from hibernation to gorge on wild garlic. Photograph: Vince Burton/Alamy

Scientists estimate Perućica – which spreads across the slopes of a canyon in Republika Srpska, the autonomous Serb-majority region of Bosnia and Herzegovina – has grown without human interference for 20,000 years. Along with Białowieża, which straddles Poland and Belarus, it is considered the last true remnant of the primeval wildwood that once covered the continent. But Perućica, says Dejan, is much better preserved. It has never been inhabited, and rough terrain and precipitous slopes have saved its trees from logging. Its 1,434 hectares (3,543 acres) are now under strict protection – no one can enter without a guide – and the site’s importance is recognised by Unesco.

From a viewpoint on a rocky ridge, dense greenery spreads below, clinging to the sheer canyon walls above a river. The river is fed by Skakavac, a 75-metre waterfall thundering into a mist of spray, and far above shines the white summit of a mountain. Originally, Chris and I had hoped to climb Maglić – at 2,386 metres, the highest peak in Bosnia – but it snowed a couple of weeks ago and we have been warned that conditions in early spring are perilous. We’ll save going up for another time. Today we are going down.

The forest has about 170 species of tree and shrub and more than 1,000 plants. Photograph: Riding Hood/Alamy

Dejan leads the way along the winding trail through groves of mixed beech, fir, spruce, pine and maple. He admits he does not know the names of all the trees, but what he does know, intimately, are the tracks of animals. The forest, he says, is “legible”, and he reads it like a book. Circular patches where the humus has been grubbed away are made by chamois foraging nutritious roots. Roe deer do the same, but their holes are precise and deep. “Look” – Dejan points to a wet log – “those scratch marks were made by a canine, either fox or wolf. But there, on the same log, something even more exciting.” The wider, deeper scratches were made by a passing brown bear. Nearby is a larger hole where a bear has raided a honeybee hive. Of course, sightings are never guaranteed, but they are always possible at this time of year, when bears emerge from hibernation to gorge on wild garlic – known in many Balkan languages as “bear’s garlic”. “If I stop, you stop! Now we are in stealth mode.”

Every few minutes of descent seems to bring us to a different realm as the temperate rainforest grows taller and more tangled. Deadwood lies everywhere – paradoxically a sign of health. Lichen, moss and fungus drip from the branches. The astonishing biodiversity protects Perućica from epidemics such as spruce bark beetle infestation, which has devastated old-growth forests elsewhere. With about 170 species of tree and shrub and more than 1,000 plants, it’s little wonder that our guide doesn’t know them all.

During the last ice age, Perućica escaped the freeze, acting as a refugium, an isolated region in which many species were preserved. From here, the trees expanded their range northwards when it thawed. The forest’s name, Dejan believes, is connected with Perun, the pre-Christian and pre-Islamic Slavic god of lightning. Certainly, it feels as if we are wandering in a temple.

The 75-metre waterfall, Skakavac. Photograph: Outdoor Bosnia

He has packed sandwiches – cheese and ham in thick white buns – which we eat on a grassy ledge overlooking the waterfall. Chamois clearly dine here too, as their droppings are everywhere. We don’t see the herd – neither do we see the wildcats, lynx or wolves that also call the forest their home – but the knowledge that they are here, perhaps even very close to us, brings a sensation I can only describe as reverence. Each of us goes quiet with awe. Maglić and the other mountains disappear behind white cloud and it begins to rain. The wetness doesn’t matter.

With his legal background, Dejan is clear-eyed about the threats. The ancient forest may be safe, but hunters come to the wider national park and the rangers are sometimes bribed to look the other way. Most visitors to Sutjeska stay in the village of Tjentište, a scattering of guesthouses and modest restaurants along the main road, but increasingly there is encroachment at the borders of the park. Even our cosy timber-frame cabin near the entrance gate is, in his opinion, too close.

For Dejan, the guide, the vast forest is ‘legible’.

It’s not that people shouldn’t come here, he tells us as we walk back up. What matters is how they come, as respectful guests. We are not the owners of the forest, not even the owners of this trail, which is walked by and shared with many other feet. He stoops to brush aside some leaves and identifies flecks of bone that have passed through a wolf’s digestive tract, and further on, wolf excrement filled with chamois hair. “This was left on the trail deliberately to tell us it’s their territory. They don’t do anything by accident. Everything has a meaning.”

After almost five hours, we emerge on the gravel road that leads towards Tjentište. The absence of so much tangled life is vaguely shocking. Both of us feel changed by our glimpse into Europe’s wild past – and perhaps we have been subtly changed on a biological level, too. Dejan announces when we part: “You two gentlemen have been exposed to a universe of micro-organisms you will never find in England. This forest gets inside you.” Perućica clings to us as we leave the national park and return to Sarajevo, a two and a half hour drive, going north as the trees once did when the ice age ended.

Guided tours of Perućica with Outdoor Bosnia or Wild Balkan Trails from £50pp. Mountain View, Tjentište, sleeps two, from £44 a night. Alternatively, Apartmani Šarović, also in Tjentište, sleeps two, from £47 a night

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UK’s best beach where forest meets the sea and it ‘feels like you’re in the Caribbean’

THE UK’S best beach is more than just a pretty face – it could even make you feel like you are thousands of miles away.

Traeth Llanddwyn in Anglesey, Wales was named the UK’s best beach, and is unique by having the main beach backed by a forest.

Traeth Llanddwyn has been named the best beach in the UK for 2026 by Time Out Credit: Alamy
The beach can be found in Wales and stretches for 3.5miles Credit: Alamy

Follow The Sun’s award-winning travel team on Instagram and Tiktok for top holiday tips and inspiration @thesuntravel.

Named the best beach in the UK for 2026 by Time Out, Traeth Llanddwyn stretches for 3.5 miles and according to some visitors on TripAdvisor, you “could be in the Caribbean”.

Standing on the Blue Flag beach, visitors can see the peaks of Eryri National Park as well as see across the Irish Sea.

Backing the beach is Newborough National Nature Reserve and Forest with Corsican pines – one of the best spots in Wales to see red squirrels.

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The pines were planted around 70 years ago to help support the sand dunes, and later in 1955, led to the reserve being declared the first coastal nature reserve.

There are walking trails through the reserve too.

And it is backed by a pine forest that is a nature reserve Credit: Alamy

And if this wasn’t enough to make you want to visit, at low tide you can also cross to the Llanddwyn Island – home to 16th century church ruins and the Tŵr Mawr Lighthouse.

Also on the island, you’ll find four small cottages that were originally built for pilots to help boats navigate into ports nearby.

You can even see Snowdonia from the island and might spot some wild ponies as well.

As for facilities at the beach, there are toilets as well as some barbeque areas with picnic benches.

You can also park in a car park right by the beach, which costs as little as £2.

One visitor said: “One of the best beaches we have ever seen – we have travelled worldwide and never been so pleased with our find.”

When the tide is out, people can walk across to Llanddwyn Island – home to 16th century church ruins and the Tŵr Mawr Lighthouse Credit: Alamy

Another said: “One of the best beaches we have been to ever. Spectacular views, space and adjoining forest area for walking too.

“The walk and views walking Llanddwyn small island breathtaking.”

If you want to extend your time in the area, then at the edge of Newborough National Nature Reserve and Forest you can stay at Newborough Forest Holiday Park.

The holiday park is spread across two acres of meadow, with the beach being a short 20-minute walk away.

The site has showers, toilets, a dish-washing area, fridge and freezer, microwave and electrical hook- ups.

There’s also a Forest Chalet that sleeps up to four people and two dogs from £120 per night.

There’s also a campsite a 20 minute walk from the beach Credit: Alamy

Pitches cost from just £28 per night.

Other beaches that featured on Time Out’s list include Cuckmere Haven in Sussex, named the second best beach in the UK.

Time Out commented that the “beach is popular with walkers but remains remarkably untouched, with only a handful of buildings visible”.

The spot has also made its appearance in a number of films including Atonement, A Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy and a Harry Potter film.

Time Out named Cuckmere Haven in Sussex as the second best beach in the UK Credit: Alamy

Rounding out the top three is Blackpool Sands, Devon.

The private beach does require a small entry fee to visit, but once there you’ll be greeted by golden sands and clean waters.

Travel Reporter Cyann Fielding, who has visited the beach, said: “At Blackpool Sands – which is already very picturesque – you’ll find Blackpool Sands Cafe, Lounge and Restaurant.

“The tropical-looking lounge has an interior and vibe that transports you to the Mediterranean, with straw umbrellas, floor-to-ceiling glass doors and a heap of natural light.

And Blackpool Sands in Devon, rounded out the top three Credit: Alamy

“And it’s so close to the beach that the sand even gets inside.

“Dishes on the menu all use locally sourced ingredients, so what you’re eating feels as good as what you see. But – as you are in Devon – make sure to get their cream tea.”

The top 40 beaches in the UK according to Time Out

HERE is the full list of Time Out’s 40 beach beaches in the UK for 2026:

  1. Traeth Llanddwyn (Newborough Beach), Anglesey
  2. Cuckmere Haven, Sussex
  3. Blackpool Sands, Devon
  4. Camusdarach Beach, Scotland
  5. Weymouth Beach, Dorset
  6. Watergate Bay, Cornwall
  7. Kynance Cove, Cornwall
  8. Alnmouth Beach, Northumberland
  9. Mwnt, Ceredigion
  10. Camber Sands, Sussex
  11. Portstewart Strand, Derry, Northern Ireland
  12. St Andrews West Sands, Fife
  13. Holkham Beach, Norfolk
  14. Barafundle Bay, Pembrokeshire
  15. Sunny Sands, Folkestone, Kent
  16. Brighton Beach, Sussex
  17. Southwold Beach, Suffolk
  18. Rhossili Bay, Gower
  19. Chesil Beach, Dorset
  20. Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove, Dorset
  21. Compton Bay, Isle of Wight
  22. Woolacombe Beach, Devon
  23. Bamburgh Beach, Northumberland
  24. Pentle Bay, Tresco, Isles of Scilly
  25. Summerleaze, Cornwall
  26. Morfa Nefyn Beach, Gwynedd
  27. Beer Beach, Devon
  28. White Park Bay, County Antrim, Northern Ireland
  29. Saunton Sands, Devon
  30. West Wittering Beach, Sussex
  31. Porthcurno Beach, Cornwall
  32. Morecambe Beach, Lancashire
  33. Scarista Beach, Isle of Harris, Scotland
  34. Marazion Beach, Cornwall
  35. Studland Bay, Dorset
  36. Whitby Sands, North Yorkshire
  37. Luskentyre Beach, Isle of Harris, Scotland
  38. Morfa Bychan (Black Rock Sands), Gwynedd, Wales
  39. Formby Beach, Merseyside
  40. Footdee Beach, Aberdeen, Scotland



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Nottingham Forest: Midfield star Elliot Anderson leans towards Manchester City move

Manchester City are leading the race to sign Elliot Anderson, with the Nottingham Forest midfielder leaning towards a move to Etihad Stadium instead of rivals Manchester United.

There is a growing expectation Anderson will leave the City Ground this summer.

United are unwilling to overpay, or get drawn into protracted negotiations.

No deal has been struck between Forest and City and the clubs are far apart on their valuation for the 23-year-old, meaning the situation could still change.

The fee could become a record for a British player and eclipse the £105m Arsenal paid West Ham for Declan Rice in 2023.

There is a sense at Forest that if there is a big sale this summer it will be Anderson, and a fine World Cup with England would put them in a stronger bargaining position.

Following Sunday’s 1-1 draw with Bournemouth, Forest manager Vitor Pereira said Anderson and Morgan Gibbs-White deserve “the top of the world”.

He would prefer to keep both players but it is Anderson who is the more likely to leave currently, especially with no European football at the City Ground next season after they finished 16th in the Premier League.

“I believe if we want to compete for different goals, we need to keep the best players,” said Pereira.

“If not, if you change every season, it is difficult to be consistent and difficult to build something stronger.

“We cannot control the market, of course, but I think we are aligned; what I think and what the club thinks is to try to keep most of them and to try to control the market.”

Anderson, who won the 2025 European U21 Championship with England last summer, joined Forest from Newcastle in 2024 for £35m and has played 92 times, scoring six goals.

Sunday’s game against Bournemouth was his 50th appearance of the season and he was given a standing ovation when withdrawn in the second half.

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Evangelos Marinakis: Nottingham Forest owner filmed in heated altercation at basketball game

Nottingham Forest owner Evangelos Marinakis has been filmed appearing to have a heated altercation during the Euroleague Basketball final in Athens on Sunday.

Marinakis, 58, who also owns Olympiakos, was at the event to watch the Olympiakos basketball team’s 92-85 win over Real Madrid.

Footage from the event, shared on social media, appears to show Marinakis wearing a ripped shirt and arguing in the stands while being separated by a barrier and security personnel.

The video does not show the person with whom Marinakis is arguing, but Greek media, external are reporting it to be Grigoris Dimitriadis, who is a former close advisor to Greek Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis.

BBC Sport has approached Nottingham Forest for comment.

Forest drew 1-1 with Bournemouth on the final day of the Premier League season on Sunday as the club secured a 16th-placed finish.

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UK forest is ‘best place in the world’ with ‘incredible’ hill fort and winding rivers

A striking UK destination used as a movie set, with 27,000 acres of ancient woodland and a meandering river passing through, has been named one of the ‘best places in the world’

Some of the world’s most spectacular places are right on our doorstep, and there’s one in the heart of an enchanting UK woodland.

Nestled between the Rivers Wye and Severn in Gloucestershire, straddling the Welsh border, lies the ancient Forest of Dean, with 27,000 acres of towering, majestic trees. It’s one of England’s largest ancient woodlands and stands as a celebrated haven of outstanding natural beauty.

It attracts visitors from far and wide to admire and explore its otherworldly woodland, rustic bridges, snowdrops, and spiralling rivers. But there’s one particular spot in the Forest of Dean that has been deemed the ‘best place in the world’.

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Speaking to the Mirror, forest ranger for Forest Holidays, Gerry O’Brien, said: “I love the Forest of Dean, it’s obviously an area very close to my heart, it’s rich in history, heritage and wildlife. I know it really well, inside out, I guess, now. There are a lot of hidden gems around the forest that I love to go and explore, but Symonds Yat Rock is one of my favourite places in the world. It’s an incredible place to go, and I love it.”

Symonds Yat Rock offers breathtaking views across the winding River Wye, which is towered over by limestone cliffs and sprawling acres of ancient woodland. It’s a haven for birdwatching, with goshawks, buzzards, and sparrowhawks sweeping over the viewpoint, and it has ample walking trails to soak up the picturesque vistas and explore the nearby forest.

Gerry further shared about Symonds Yat Rock: “It’s incredible, it’s an old Iron Age Hill Fort, it’s almost right on the Hertfordshire border, looking out over the countryside. You could imagine, like 2,500 years ago, people were living on that rock, which is hard to believe.

“There are peregrine falcons that nest in the cliff face along the edge, so you can often see them coming up. There’s also a woodland, and if you’re looking down from Symonds Yat Rock, with the River Wye below you, you can look out over Copper Hill and on the other side, it’s the woodland where Harry Potter was filmed.”

Sharing a closer insight into the area and its renowned connections, Gerry added: “If you go to Symonds Yat East, it’s a little hamlet by the river, it’s beautiful and really picturesque. But you walk right past the house that was used in the Netflix series, Sex Education.

“It’s the red house, so all of that was filmed in and along the Wye Valley. There are a lot of hidden gems around the Forest of Dean. They’ve done alot of movies and TV work around the forest.”

Another highlight in the Forest of Dean’s otherworldly scenes is the beautiful Puzzlewood with 14 acres of twisted, moss-draped trees, ancient wooden bridges and snowdrops scattered across the rugged terrain. Alongside Gerry’s favourite place in the world, Puzzlewood is frequently hailed as one of the region’s most picturesque locations.

It even secured a place on Big 7 Travel’s ’50 Most Beautiful Places in the UK’ list for 2025 and again this year. This fantastical atmosphere has also attracted Hollywood attention, serving as a backdrop for productions such as Star Wars: The Force Awakens, The Secret Garden, The Huntsman: Winter’s War, Doctor Who, Merlin, Netflix’s Our Planet and BBC’s Atlantis.

Elsewhere in the Forest of Dean, Gerry recommended King Arthur’s Cave and the nearby Little Doward Hill Fort, an Iron Age fort situated in the Wye Valley. But one lesser-known landmark he applauded is the Darkhill Ironworks.

“It’s an old industrial ruin, and it’s really atmospheric where nature has reclaimed around it”, Gerry shared. “You can do a little walk around the Ironworks, which is a nice nature walk, and you can see the ruins.”

To explore some of Gerry’s recommendations in the Forest of Dean, you can book a stay with Forest Holidays, which offers a collection of lodges, cabins and treehouses, some with outdoor hot tubs to soak under the towering trees. Meanwhile, the likes of Sykes Holiday Cottages and Holidaycottages.co.uk also offer a range of stays in the region.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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Match of the Day analysis: Why Matheus Cunha’s goal should have been disallowed against Nottingham Forest

BBC Sport pundits Mark Schwarzer and Dion Dublin believe Bryan Mbeumo using his arm to trap the ball to his side to help better control Diego Dalot’s cross in the build-up to Matheus Cunha’s goal, gave Manchester United an “completely unfair advantage” in their 3-2 win over Nottingham Forest in the Premier League.

MATCH REPORT: Premier League – Manchester United 3-2 Nottingham Forest

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