foodlovers

Coffee

Normally we stay around Plaka, so Anana is the coffee shop I go to most often. There’s also Behold The Man in Exarchia, which is one of the coolest coffee shops I’ve been to. Exarchia has a really rebellious, anti-establishment feel and this place completely fits that – it has great music, great coffee and it’s just very cool. I don’t think there’s a coffee shop in London that’s quite like it. DC

My favourite is also Anana; It’s casual and low-key, with somewhere to sit down and relax. I’ll have a freddo espresso (espresso shaken over ice), which is basically the Greek national coffee now. NM

Bakeries

For pastries, Akra is one of the best places in Athens. The food itself is rustic, simple and delicious, and the pastries are unbelievably technical. There’s something almost incongruous about it – you eat very simple savoury food and then a dessert arrives that’s incredibly elaborate. It shouldn’t necessarily work, but it does. DC

No Crumbs opened this year and I’ve already been a few times. It’s a little outside the centre, but it’s where I’d go for breakfast or something to eat on the move. In central Athens, I also like Fillo, which specialises in traditional pies from around Greece. Last time I went, they had three different spanakopitas from three different regions. NM

Breakfast

I don’t really do breakfast in Athens. We’ll normally get coffee, then at about 11am go to Diporto, which is usually our first proper stop. It’s this incredible, old, rundown restaurant near the market: cash only, orders taken with a pen, massive wine barrels in the room, no choice of wine. They just put wine and water on the table. The food is incredibly simple: chickpeas, beans, vegetables cooked down slowly, sometimes grilled sardines or fish from the market. You could recreate a Greek taverna in London, but you could never recreate Diporto. There’s such magic in it. DC

If I want to start the day properly, I go to Ipiros inside the meat market, at about 10.30am. It’s not really breakfast; it’s a proper meal. They serve slow-cooked dishes in huge pots and we usually get the tripe soup, which is good for a hangover, with loads of bread. Then we walk around the corner to Diporto and have the opposite: braised beans, chickpeas, salad and, whatever time it is, wine. NM

Traditional tavernas

Whenever we fly into Athens, we try to go straight to Taverna To Trigono in Kalyvia, out by the airport. It’s as magic as a taverna gets. One side of the menu is salads, tzatziki, cheeses and breads; the other is grilled meat such as sausage, spit-roast lamb, offal, lamb chops, sheep chops. Everything is cooked to order and served with incredible abundance and generosity. It’s very simple: good produce, salt, oregano and lemon; nothing is over-embellished. I wouldn’t go to Athens without going there. DC

Manári is a proper meat chop house in central Athens. It’s relatively new, but it feels as traditional as possible, and you don’t need to travel into the mountains outside the city to find meat that good. I order the lamb chops, pasta with meat juices and tomato salad. The lamb chops are as good as – if not better than – a good dry-aged steak. Another favourite is Tavern Spanos in Kato Patisia, for lamb chops and meats cooked slowly on the spit. Once they run out, they run out. NM

New-wave restaurants

Linou Soumpasis & Sia is probably the most forward-thinking restaurant in Athens right now, and probably one of the best in Greece. It takes quite humble, seafood-led food and gives it a fine edge without losing its simplicity. The room is incredibly simple and every detail is really considered. Last time I went, they served a version of kakavia, the traditional fish soup, which was essentially a beautiful fish and vegetable broth with olive oil. Something that simple, done that well, is incredible. DC

Linou is one of my go-tos, too. It reminds me a bit of Lyle’s meets Brat. It has a restrained approach to food that still feels very modern. I’d also go to Pharaoh, particularly for the vegetables and whatever they’re doing with fermented wheat, and Ateno, which we went to twice in two days on my last trip. Get the Greek salad, stuffed vegetables and fries with mushrooms and eggs. I also really like Ex Machina: their saganaki is fried cheese but served cold, and I always want to see what [the chef] Adam Kodovas is doing with the seafood broth because the dish changes every few months, while the formula remains the same. I go to Akra for lunch because they serve smaller portions and I can order as many dishes as possible. NM

Seafood

Travolta is banging; it’s old-school and a bit like Bentley’s in London. You get huge plates of crudo and whole fish, and they have an amazing prawn and squid skewer with squid ink and olive oil that they mix at the table. It can get expensive (fish is incredibly expensive in Greece), but if you’re really into seafood it’s very cool. Phita is another good seafood place, a little further out. DC

Travolta would be my choice for more classic seafood, too. If you want something more elevated, I’d go to Iodio near Kolonaki. There’s one dish I’ll always remember, which is raw fish served cold with a crisp sheet of rice paper on top and a warm avgolemono sauce – a classic Greek sauce made with egg and lemon. You grab everything together in one bite and it’s great. NM

Cheap eats

For souvlaki, the best is often at little roadside or market stalls. Last time we were in Exarchia, we found a tiny souvlaki stall mainly serving the market vendors. For souvla, the bigger rotisserie-style meats, we go to Psitopoleio Peloponnhsos. They serve huge pieces of meat, lamb heads; all sorts of pretty gnarly stuff cooking on the rotisserie. DC

Gyros are a dangerous subject for Greeks because everyone has their favourite. Achilleas in Neos Kosmos is one of the few places that still makes their own [meat rotisserie] (rather than buying it ready-made). In the centre, I really like Hoocut. They aren’t technically gyros because they slice the meat raw, cook it and then chop it again into small strips, but the mentality is similar. For a late-night version, go to Mandraki in Kaisariani. They’re open until about 2am and cook meat on spits late into the night. Their gyros are huge and often sell out. It’s cheap, traditional and the sort of thing people actually eat every day. NM

Wine and cocktails

Wine is Fine is really good for a pre-dinner drink, and I also love Epta Martyres, from the people behind Loggia [on Sifnos]; I’d been to both loads of times before I even realised they were connected. In Greece, I tend to want wines that are light and bright. Assyrtiko is the obvious one; in that climate you want something really zippy. DC

Pharaoh has a great wine list, and Tanini Agapi Mou is an amazing wine bar. A Greek grape I discovered this year is Vidiano. Vidiano can lean quite dry but still feels really pleasant and crisp; depending on where it’s grown, the fruit and minerality change a lot. It’s easygoing but complex at the same time. NM

Line Athens is quite molecular and it’s the kind of place you stay for the night. The cocktails are some of the best I’ve ever had in my life, let alone Athens. Baba au Rum is right in the mix, too. There’s also Rumble in the Jungle behind The Bar in Front of the Bar. The first is a bar where you walk in and think, “This is cool,” then go through another door into the second, even cooler bar hidden behind it. It’s very Athens. DC

You have to mention Line and The Bar in Front of the Bar. At Bar in Front, they’re trying to be as zero waste as possible, and you basically order through a window in a wall and sit drinking in the street. I choose what to drink according to the weather – last time I had a frozen martini that was almost like a slushie. At Line, the Paloma is usually my go-to, although on my last two visits I had one of their punches, which changes regularly. NM

We always go to Athens’ central fish and meat markets. I particularly recommend being in Athens on a Saturday because that’s when you find all these farmers’ markets around the city. Some of my best times in Athens have been wandering around those. DC

Near Diporto there’s Miran, a charcuterie shop with a huge range of cheeses and cured meats that they make themselves. Buy something there, pick up some bread and take it home. There’s also a huge farmers’ market every Saturday around Exarchia with outstanding produce. NM

Out of town

I really like Vouliagmeni, down on the coast where the Four Seasons is. We used to drive down there in the morning for sunrise, or chase the sunset if we were filming. Lake Vouliagmeni is there, too. It’s much more suburban, with huge houses and tree-lined boulevards, and it’s absolutely beautiful. You probably need a car. I don’t have one particular restaurant to send you to; for me it’s the area itself. DC

For meat, go out towards the airport to Kalyvia. There are two enormous tavernas, Christoforos and To Trigono. During the week they can be completely empty, but at the weekend you’ll struggle to get a table. People tend to swear allegiance to one or the other; I don’t have a favourite. It normally depends on who’s driving me and where they want to go. Although the last few times I’ve been to Christoforos. NM