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‘Enchanted’ cove filled with fossils and old sea wreck just a stone’s throw from market town

Saltwick Bay is a beautiful and dramatic stretch of sand just a short walk from Whitby and is steeped in history with fossils, shipwrecks and unrivalled sunrises

Just a short distance from Whitby lies a breathtaking beach brimming with fossils, shipwrecks and unparalleled sunrises.

Saltwick Bay is just a two-hour drive from Huddersfield and a brisk five-minute trip from Whitby itself. The stunning and dramatic North-East coastline is a sight to behold in its own right, but it encircles a sandy stretch steeped in history.

On the brief 1.5-mile stroll from Whitby you’ll encounter the Gothic Bronte-esque ruins of Whitby Abbey and the charming harbour entrance.

This picturesque walk meanders past Whitby Holiday Park where steps descend to the beach. The Whitby Guide advises checking tide times to ensure you’re not stranded by the incoming tide blocking the steps on your return journey, reports Yorkshire Live.

Fossils.

The cliffs, prone to rock falls, loom over a bed of fossils concealed among shale and shingle. These spots are ideal for exploration, with numerous Ammonites nestled between the smooth stones.

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In addition, you can discover jet, the gemstone for which Whitby is renowned.

This site of special scientific interest (SSSI) has yielded many scientific finds over the years, including the skeleton of a Teleosaurus Stenosaurus Bollensis unearthed in 1824, along with additional dinosaur footprints spotted on the beach. This prehistoric crocodile now resides at the Whitby museum.

Alum quarries.

The proximity of the fossils to the surface is due to the area’s rich mining heritage. The quarries have exposed the wealth of fossils that visitors now stumble upon.

The first alum mine was established by Thomas Challoner in the 16th century, following Henry VIII’s reformation of the UK after his marriage to Anne Boleyn.

This came about because Britain had previously imported alum from Italy, but the industry was under the Pope’s control – with whom Henry had severed ties.

When Italy stopped its supply, the UK was left without until 1649, when the vital chemical was discovered at Saltwick Bay. Under the guidance of Italian alum workers, Sir Hugh Chomley then opened a mine.

In 1673, authorisation was granted for a harbour to be constructed to transport the alum. By 1770, an alum house for the workers was built adjacent to the quarry.

However, mining ceased in 1791 when alum was replaced by aniline dyes.

Today, remnants of the mine still linger, with a ramp extending into the sea and patches of deep red shale where the shingle was extracted.

Sunrise and Sunset.

Saltwick Bay is famed for its breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. The rock pools reflect the vibrant hues of the golden sun, and from May to July, the rare ‘double sun’ phenomenon casts a second radiant orb over the sea.

Shipwrecks.

The grand Admiral Von Tromp trawler remains a significant part of local history, with the ship’s downfall forever etched on the beach.

The sturdy remains stand tall, and you can get up close to them on Saltwick Bay, stepping back in time to marvel at the maritime catastrophe.

On 30 June 1976, the Admiral Von Tromp set sail from Scarborough Harbour bound for Barnacle Bay. However, it never reached its destination, instead running aground on the rocks at Saltwick Bay.

The HMHS Rohilla also met its end here. In the early hours of 29 October 1914, with 229 souls aboard, the HMHS Rohilla struck the rocks at Saltwick Nab.

At the onset of World War I, it was en route to Dunkirk, tasked with navigating the perilous East Coast, evading German submarines and the treacherous North Sea coastlines.

Yet, it was Whitby’s rocks that sealed its fate, as the Rohilla shattered its bow upon them.

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Ancient woodland filled with waterfalls, grottos and hidden ruins

The 120-acre National Trust site near Masham features 18th-century grottos, waterfalls and ruins hidden within ancient woodland on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales

In North Yorkshire, near the market town of Masham, lies an expansive woodland haven brimming with hidden gems that stretch back to the 18th century.

Hackfall Woods stands as a magnificent 120-acre expanse of ancient forest, attracting visitors with its enchanting atmosphere and stunning views. The Woodland Trust-owned site holds grade 1 listed status, owing to its 18th-century remnants and historic garden features.

Perched on the fringe of the picturesque Yorkshire Dales, Hackfall nestles within a dramatic and rugged gorge carved by the River Ure.

Following years of neglect and deterioration, the woodland has been carefully restored to its original splendour, now welcoming keen walkers and explorers across Yorkshire.

History

Whilst today Hackfall appears as an untouched wilderness, it was actually carefully crafted to achieve this wild aesthetic by a renowned landscaper in 1731.

John Aislabie bought the estate and, working with his son, reimagined it as a seemingly natural landscape dotted with decorative features for visitors to admire.

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The design was cleverly conceived to showcase the pre-existing panoramas and natural characteristics, amplifying the area’s inherent beauty.

Yet following their considerable efforts, Hackfall endured decades of abandonment and disrepair, before being purchased in 1932 by an owner who stripped the site of its trees. The structures had fallen into disrepair, and flooding had worn away the once-stunning water features.

In 1989, the Woodland Trust stepped in to save the site, securing it on a lease of nearly 1,000 years, with support from organisations including the Hackfall Trust and English Heritage.

Since that time, this magnificent woodland has been formally designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, alongside recognition as ancient semi-natural woodland.

It continues to attract visitors from throughout the country, eager to witness the waterfalls, sculptures and historic ruins.

One visitor recounted their experience on TripAdvisor, writing: “Hackfall is a beautiful and peaceful woodland brimming with nature, trees, plants, birds, wildlife, streams, ponds, castle ruins, great views on a hillside alongside the River Ure. It’s a super place for peace and quiet, for individuals, for families, suitable for all ages to explore and get away from it all.”

Wildlife

Nature enthusiasts are guaranteed a memorable experience at Hackfall, renowned for the remarkable diversity of species that inhabit the area.

From bird life to flora and insects, the woodland is bursting with biodiversity, and countless sightings have been documented here, particularly by dedicated birdwatchers.

The website showcases an extensive array of creatures visitors might encounter, from kingfishers to dippers, grey wagtails and woodpeckers. Guests can also anticipate spotting stoats, foxes, badgers, butterflies and little lemon slugs.

Access

Given the challenging landscape, featuring numerous steep footpaths, Hackfall is only suitable for those confident navigating steps and inclines, as wheelchair access isn’t available.

The woodland offers up to four entry points, with the two most frequented located at the top of the site and featuring the steepest routes.

To access these, you’ll need to start from the minor road linking Grewelthorpe to Masham. The entrance has no barriers, and as you follow the trail, you’ll quickly discover it’s a gentle gradient with a handful of steps.

Free parking is available nearby at the Woodland Trust car park, situated roughly half a mile before Grewelthorpe Village. Some walkers alternatively opt to park in the village of Masham.

Bear in mind there are no toilet facilities within the woodlands themselves, with the closest public toilets located back in Masham. While this is typical for most woodland rambles, visitors will be delighted to learn that not only are they welcome, but their dogs are too.

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