Snorkelling with sharks and dining underwater makes a sister getaway to the Maldives truly special
SPOTTING yet another shark, my sister Hayley shouts: “Quick! There are loads over here,” pointing towards the edge of the reef.
We’ve only just jumped into the sea on our 90-minute guided snorkelling trip, £53 each, so I decide to closely follow the guide instead, who points out moray eels, box fish and spotted eagle rays, plus the aforementioned reef sharks, which are thankfully harmless.
There is coral aplenty, and it’s teeming with sea life in every colour of the rainbow, as if I’ve swum straight into a scene from Finding Nemo.
Water View
Staying in a water villa at Oblu Xperience Ailafushi – complete with an outdoor rainfall shower and deck with a ladder straight into the turquoise water below – offers the classic Maldives experience.
The sound of the waves lapping beneath us is more calming than any white noise track I’ve listened to.
Thankfully, this all-inclusive resort on Ailafushi island is not solely aimed at couples, unlike many luxury getaways in the Maldives.
Even better, it’s just a 15-minute speedboat ride from the capital Malé, which works out much cheaper than a sea-plane transfer.
The main restaurant, Element X, is a buffet eatery, which also helps keep costs down.
Here, we find dishes from all over the world, but it’s the Indian selection with rich, buttery paneer masala, spicy lentil daal and fresh roti, that most hits the spot.
All the action on Ailafushi centres around the main pool, the X360 bar and the neighbouring beach, where water shoes prove handy for the coral.
Daily activities include aqua Zumba, water polo and volleyball, plus a DJ hits the decks at sunset.
There’s even a twice-weekly foam party, which reminds us of teenage trips to Ibiza.
After a few frozen piña coladas, the nightly karaoke proves entertaining, and there’s a games room complete with pool tables, board games and huge screens playing live sport.
But it’s the water slide that drops you straight into the Indian ocean that becomes our favourite activity.
Beach Happy
At the other side of the island – a 10-minute stroll away – we find the Elena Spa And Wellness Centre, one of the Maldives’ largest spas, with landscaped tropical gardens that blend indoors with outdoors.
My treatment room overlooks the beach, and beneath the spa soundtrack I can hear the gentle sound of the waves.
The Balinese massage, £57 for 60 minutes, melts away tension from our long flight, while Hayley’s detoxifying lymph massage leaves her abs looking super-sculpted.
As well as treatments, there’s a steam room, sauna and salt water infinity pool, £8 for an hour, plus a juice bike which you can pedal to blend your fruits of choice.
Later, on the 90-minute dolphin cruise, which costs £53 each, we camp out on the bow of the boat, and are soon fortunate enough to spy a pod complete with a calf leaping out of the water just as the sunset turns the sky orange.
We celebrate with a delicious five-course lobster-themed beach dinner from The Copper Pot food truck, £60 each, that includes brown butter lobster tortellini, poached lobster, fennel and mango salad and a gigantic lobster thermidor.
Another ray in paradise
Our most memorable evening is spent at Oblu’s underwater restaurant Only Blu.
At 6.8m below sea level, we tuck into three courses with wine pairings, and marvel at the marine life on the other side of the super-sized windows.
As we’re feasting on scallops with pickles and cauliflower, and Maldivian yellowfin tuna poke, a 5ft-long nurse shark glides past and hundreds of tiny fish quickly dart into the reef to camouflage themselves among the coral.
It’s not long before we spy a similar-sized blacktip reef shark, and I lose count of the number of rays that appear alongside brightly coloured trigger and lion fish, before my main course of melt-in-the-mouth, pan-fried reef fish with corn mash and an olive and caper emulsion arrives.
A gulab jamun cheesecake and rich deconstructed banoffee pie don’t disappoint either, and the night proves well worth the extra £95 each.
With the fish still entertaining us just a few feet away, if we could, we’d both happily stay here until sunrise.
FYI
A seven-night all-inclusive stay at Oblu Xperience Ailafushi costs from £890 per person, including speedboat transfers (Coloursof oblu.com).
Flights from London to Malé cost from £539 return.
ISLE BE BACK
Meanwhile, writer Samantha Rea found joy on the island of Sark.
The “toast rack” – which is basically a row of benches on a trailer pulled by a tractor – is chugging me uphill from the harbour.
With no seat belts or doors, I hold on for dear life.
But seeing as only tractors and horse-drawn carriages are allowed on the tiny isle of Sark (yes, there are no cars!), this is the best way to reach The Avenue, Sark’s main street.
And at £1.80 a ride, it’s worth a go.
Sitting in the English Channel, just off the French coast, Sark is 3.5 miles long and 1.5 miles wide with some fab foodie gems.
At Caragh Chocolates, I decorate truffles and a huge slab with hazelnuts, fudge and cranberries alongside owner Caragh, before leaving with my delicious creations.
Ninety-minute workshops cost £45 (Caraghchocolates.com).
While at cosy Nova’s Bistro, portions are generous and the rich beef stew with pastry lid, £26, and treacle tart, £9.50 (@Novas. bistro) are well worth the 20-minute walk from Stocks Hotel, where I’m kipping
I walk off some of my indulgence the next day on a one-hour tour of La Seigneurie House and Gardens, with its gorgeous fountains, bridges and chapel. It’s owned by a family who are like Sark’s royals and has a fascinating history. Entry costs £8 (Laseigneurie desercq.uk).
Sark is also great for wild swimming – the best spots being Dixcart Bay, Les Fontaine Bay and La Grande Greve.
Meanwhile, if you want to see the Milky Way once night falls, head to Sark Observatory, £10 (Darkskyisland. co.uk).
And just like the song, you’ll hopefully soon be counting stars. . .
UK flights to Guernsey cost from £100 return. Ferries to Sark cost from £38.50 return (Sarkshipping.gg).
Double rooms at Stocks Hotel cost from £250 B&B (Stockshotel.com).
