escape

Navigating the high slopes of Portugal’s Serra da Estrela in midwinter requires serious negotiation with the elements, but my guide, João Pedro Sousa, makes it look simple. Angling his lean frame into the wind, he digs his plastic snow-shoes into a steep drift and pauses, scanning the white ridgeline. He’s looking for mariolas – small cairns of rocks, fused by ice, that will indicate our onward trail. “The landscape changes every day so you have to learn how to read it afresh,” he says, setting off again. “At this time of year, nature is a true artist.”

I plod inelegantly in his wake, still clumsy in the frames clipped to my boots to keep me from sinking into the powder. At a quartzite outcrop rippled with rose and amber, we pause and drink in the view. Below us, cupped in the glacial scar of the Zêzere valley, is the terracotta-roofed town of Manteigas – founded in the 12th century and today the modest hub for tourism in the region. Ahead, on the horizon, João Pedro points out mainland Portugal’s highest peak, the 1,993-metre Torre, home to a small ski resort suited to beginners. “This region is full of surprises,” he grins.

As head of activities for Casa das Penhas Douradas, a design-led hotel created in 2006 and inspired by Alpine lodges, João Pedro leads treks through the massif in all seasons. More than 100 miles of trails extend from the property, following old shepherd paths into pine forests, around lagoons and across barren passes stacked with huge granite boulders – the remnants of the last ice age, scattered like a giant’s abandoned toys. This is wild country – recognised in 2020 by Unesco as a global geopark for its remarkable biodiversity and geology – but the human story is equally rich.

The hotel is a renovated 100-year-old sanatorium, its 17 birch-panelled rooms and suites gazing eastwards to the rising sun. All have vast sliding windows and doors to let in the curative mountain air during the milder months. Down the main corridor, leading from one log fire-warmed sitting room to another, a gallery of sepia photographs remembers the pioneering 1881 expedition by the Lisbon Geographic Society to this high plateau, looking for a place to treat the scourge of tuberculosis.

“The refined air, pure water and protein-rich diet here worked wonders for patients. For a period at the start of the 20th century, this was Portugal’s answer to the Swiss health resorts of St Moritz or Davos,” João Pedro tells me when we are back at the lodge, warming up with apple cake and carqueja mountain tea. The chalets peppering the surrounding slopes certainly look as if they have been plucked from northern Europe, with steep roofs, sunrooms and occasional fairytale flourishes, like finials or turrets. “Built from stone, not timber, though,” João Pedro clarifies. “The style is mixed with our Lusitanian mountain architecture.”

For the rest of my stay, the Serra is a violently shaken snow globe, the whiteout preventing safe hiking and forcing a thorough exploration of the hotel instead. I shuffle between the indoor sauna and bath-temperature swimming pool; seek out the resident masseuse for a thoroughly undeserved sports massage; and indulge in a series of three-course meals where I sample the region’s famous Iberian pork – always tender and expertly sauced. Afternoons are seen out with a glass of port and a well-thumbed tome on mountaineering from the library, a lived-in space charmingly decorated with antique skiing paraphernalia. The pièce de résistance of the property? The Nordic-style wooden hot tub, which I book for a late-night soak after the storm subsides, the stars winking down at me through spindrift and steam.

As well as injecting some panache into the local tourism scene, I discover the founders of the hotel have been pivotal in saving a dying mountain craft: burel fabric, a thick, water-resistant weave made from bordaleira sheep’s wool and used for shepherds’ capes since the middle ages. “I fell in love with the local material when creating the upholstery for the hotel – it’s amazingly tough and versatile,” owner Isabel Costa tells me, as we tour her warehouse of whirring antique looms on the outskirts of Manteigas. “Nine textile mills had already gone out of business when this one closed – I knew we had to buy it.”

In 2010, the mill reopened as the Burel Factory, with a fresh directive: vibrant colours, modern designs and new applications as tactile wall art and furniture coverings, as well as fashion. Isabel was able to rehire experienced artisans, who in turn trained a new generation of craftspeople. I meet some of them in the Room of Light, where workers stand before great windows reeling bolts of cloth to check for skipped stitches. “Generations of Manteigas women have worked in this business,” seamstress Marta Neves tells me. “It’s delicate work, and with the quantity of bespoke commissions now coming in, every day is different.”

Owing to the success of her initial projects, Isabel was able to expand further, opening the town’s first five-star hotel in 2018, Casa de São Lourenço, with a third property currently in the works. The fabric of local life has been rewoven in the process: with expanding job opportunities, young people are choosing to stay and build lives. The local school has even reopened. Today, burel shops sit on Lisbon and Porto’s most upmarket thoroughfares, popularising a native art form – and a destination – long overlooked. “It was my husband who first fell in love with Manteigas. The nature, the people – it’s like nowhere else in Portugal,” Isabel says.

I stay on in the small town itself, checking into Casa das Obras, a time-warp mansion that has been in the noble Ribeiro de Portugal family since its construction between 1770 and 1825, serving as a guesthouse for the past two decades. Here, history is palpable. Stern-looking ancestors of the current owner, Maria Amélia, look down from oil paintings lining the monumental stone staircase. Lower chambers include a tapestried billiards room and bar, while the upstairs breakfast room – a living museum of antiques, trinkets and heavy drapes – boasts original ceiling art. The bedrooms are underwhelming in comparison, but there’s a pretty garden blooming with camellias, and the location is unbeatably central.

Not that there’s too much of Manteigas to explore. One twisting lane of commerce offers up a souvenir shop stacked with knitted socks and wool slippers; a bakery famous for creating the town’s signature sweet treat, the syrupy pastel de feijoca; and a couple of delis selling wheels of creamy Serra de Estrela sheep’s cheese. The great treasure of the town is its looks, its cobbled streets and snow-dusted churches framed in all directions by dramatic valleys and forested peaks, all seemingly ripped from a storybook.

Come summer, the community will be humming with hikers and adrenaline junkies – biking, paragliding, climbing and ATV buggy rides can all be organised here, with information at the little tourist office. But for now, during its coldest months, Manteigas insists on visitors slowing down – filling their lungs with crisp air, lining their stomachs with hearty cuisine and exploring scenic mountain trails when Mother Nature allows.

The trip was supported by Casa das Penhas Douradas, where rooms start at €189 B&B, including guided hikes and a tour of the Burel Factory. Rooms at Casa das Obras start at €55 B&B. Manteigas can be reached via taxi (30min) or twice-daily bus from the town of Belmonte, which is connected to Lisbon by direct train (3h 50min).

The beautiful village is perfect for a serene getaway for those looking to immerse themselves in nature and rich rural history – and it’s been named one of the county’s ‘best kept’.

A hidden gem of a Lancashire village nestled on the northern shores of the River Ribble offers the perfect tranquil escape for anyone seeking to lose themselves in nature and centuries of countryside heritage.

Located a mere two miles north-west of Clitheroe in the breathtaking Ribble Valley, this picturesque village boasts everything you could wish for – a trickling stream, sweeping views of imposing fells, heritage sites, three highly-rated traditional pubs, cobblestone lanes and winding pathways, plus a captivating riverside garden that has earned the village numerous accolades through the years.

Set within the Forest of Bowland – designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) in 1964 – strolling through this enchanting corner of the countryside whilst soaking up scenic vistas of striking fells, it’s easy to understand why this village has captured the affection of countless visitors.

The Lancashire village of Waddington derives its name from Wadda, an 8th-century Anglo-Saxon chieftain linked to the assassination of Northumbrian King Ethelred – just one glimpse into this charming settlement’s fascinating and layered past.

Having secured the prestigious ‘Best Kept Village in Lancashire’ award on multiple occasions, Waddington’s Coronation/Jubilee Gardens deserves much of the credit for this distinguished recognition, reports Lancs Live.

The public garden’s stunning sundial and vibrant floral displays are truly spectacular, and positioned alongside Waddington Brook, it serves as one of the village’s most popular attractions.

Created in 1953 to commemorate Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, the crowning glory of this award-winning garden is the rustic bridge erected in 2002.

Contributing to the village’s appeal and distinctive character, several properties benefit from having the Waddington Brook literally on their doorstep, with the picturesque stream running directly past their front doors.

The village boasts numerous significant historical landmarks including the 15th-century Anglican St Helen’s Church, Waddington Methodist Church, a magnificent 17th-century manor house known as Waddow Hall, and Almshouses initially built during the 1700s to accommodate widows of local dalesmen and farmers.

These almshouses were demolished and rebuilt beside the village green in the late 19th-century.

However, there’s more to Waddington’s story. The village has another notable distinction – Waddington Hall is renowned for sheltering King Henry VI for 12 months whilst he evaded his Yorkist adversaries, before his betrayal and capture in 1465.

The village also became the location for a 1990 ‘TV experiment’ when the now-defunct television channel established a studio in the village hall, broadcasting ‘hyper-local’ programmes featuring local stories from the venue for an hour each evening.

Consequently, Waddington Village TV proved enormously popular at the time. The closest train station to Waddington is located in Clitheroe, whilst the nearest bus station can be found in Whalley. The village is also readily accessible by road.

Trio of top-rated pubs

Waddington is also home to three highly-rated pubs – firm favourites amongst both locals and tourists.

The picturesque village nestled at the base of Waddington Fell houses the award-winning Higher Buck, a pub which appeared on Estrella Damm’s ‘Top 50 Gastropubs in the UK’ list in 2022.

Its outdoor seating area proves irresistible to travellers, with visitors unable to pass up enjoying a pint when the weather’s fine. Combine that with the exceptional food served at the establishment and you’ve discovered an unmissable culinary paradise.

Rounding off the trio are the Lower Buck Inn and the Waddington Arms, both offering delicious meals that pair perfectly with a satisfying pint. Situated right in the village centre, these two venues also provide accommodation for visitors.

The Lower Buck dates back to 1760 and takes pride in being a ‘traditionally traditional’ establishment, whilst the Waddington Arms is somewhat more sophisticated – and functions as a four-star hotel with an impressive 4.4 out of 5 rating on Tripadvisor.

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Gov. Gavin Newsom’s recently proposed 2026-27 state budget included a pleasant surprise: a deficit of about $3 billion — significantly less than analysts had estimated. But when it comes to California state budgets, good news rarely lasts. Newsom’s own estimates warn that the deficit may reach $22 billion in the following fiscal year.

It is all too common for California’s budget to careen from year to year. Between 2022 and 2024 the state experienced a $175-billion swing from surplus to deficit. This time the crunch came because spending fueled by the post-pandemic economic recovery was not sustainable when revenue plummeted just a few years later — but the state budget has long gone through similar boom-and-bust cycles.

Although California’s leaders deserve their fair share of the blame for putting the state on this budgetary roller coaster, there are three underlying factors that make effective fiscal management in California uniquely challenging: an overreliance on the state’s personal income tax; mandatory spending commitments that limit policymakers’ discretion to address challenges; and a lack of accountability for the taxpayer money that is spent.

First, California has an outdated tax system. In the 2025-26 budget, for example, the personal income tax made up nearly 70% of general fund revenue. By comparison, personal income taxes account for 38% of total state tax collections nationally. The Golden State’s extreme reliance on the personal income tax means that when incomes are high in California, revenue collections are strong, but when the economy slows and incomes fall, state revenue weakens drastically too.

The outsize role that capital gains — income from certain investments — play in revenue makes the volatility worse. High earners tend to earn a larger share of their total income this way. In fact, the unexpectedly narrow deficit in Newsom’s 2026 budget was due to what California’s Legislative Analyst Office identified as a $42-billion tailwind created by a robust stock market, which led more Californians to earn more capital gains and pay more taxes on those earnings. But when equity markets aren’t performing well, collections take a major hit. Consider this contrast: In 2021, capital gains accounted for almost a quarter of the personal income tax liability in the state, compared with just 10% in 2023.

The reliance on personal income taxes means that as the highest earners leave, so does California’s revenue. In the 20 years leading up to 2023, the top 1% of income earners in the state were responsible for an average of 45% of total personal income tax liability. That’s why policies like the recently discussed “billionaires tax” could lead to capital flight from California, jeopardizing the state’s ability to fund basic services.

The second complicating factor in California’s budget process is the amount of money tied up in spending commitments over which policymakers have little discretion. Many of these restrictions have been imposed by voters over the last several decades in ballot initiatives that have passed with significant margins. Together, these provisions — while well-meaning and politically popular in many cases — create limitations that make budgeting a challenge in California.

For example, funding for the state’s public schools is largely guaranteed by Proposition 98, a state constitutional amendment approved by voters in 1988 that establishes an annual minimum funding amount for public K-12 schools and community colleges. About 40% of the general fund budget in California, or nearly $90 billion in 2026, is committed without exception to K-14 schools through Proposition 98.

California voters have also approved tens of billions of dollars in borrowing over the last 20 years that the state’s constitution requires be paid back from the general fund. These bond authorizations create obligations to repay borrowing for priorities as wide-ranging as health facilities, water infrastructure and wildfire prevention. Repaying these “IOUs” requires policymakers to trim spending in other areas. Also, the state’s rainy-day fund, which is designed to insulate the budget from economic downturns, requires an annual set-aside of 1.5% of estimated general fund revenue.

Finally, California has no systematic way of providing accountability for and assessing whether any of its spending is producing promised outcomes. Governments at every level struggle with the concept of detailing what the “return on investment” is for public spending. But the situation in California is particularly dire. Thus, taxpayers are often stuck financing underperforming government programs riddled with waste and outright fraud, as was the case in the recent $30-billion scandal that afflicted the state’s unemployment insurance program.

In the mid-2000s, California commissioned a unified financial accounting and transparency system known as Fi$Cal that was supposed to replace several outdated systems. Over a billion dollars and several blown deadlines later, the platform still isn’t complete and won’t be fully operational until July 1, 2032. While the state auditor, an official appointed by the governor, does a credible job of analyzing state spending, recommendations for improvements are often not implemented. And the state controller — the elected chief fiscal officer who is responsible to voters for financial oversight of state spending — hasn’t produced California’s annual financial audit on time since 2017.

It’s hard for a state to properly manage its finances when there’s confusion over how much it’s really spending, or whether that money is achieving its intended purpose. But that’s become business as usual here.

Policymakers will have a tough time addressing California’s budget and fiscal challenges unless each of these three underlying factors is addressed. Our antiquated tax code should be reformed to reduce reliance on the personal income tax and raise revenue in a more predictable way. Californians must understand that there are long-term implications of borrowing to address challenges and warily approach future bond measures and other initiatives that tie the hands of policymakers today. And voters should elect politicians willing to provide them with the oversight that’s needed for the taxpayer money that Sacramento spends.

Without these changes, Californians are probably headed for more fiscal follies in the years ahead.

Lanhee J. Chen is a fellow at the Hoover Institution at Stanford University and was a candidate for California state controller in 2022.