enchanted

Saltwick Bay is a beautiful and dramatic stretch of sand just a short walk from Whitby and is steeped in history with fossils, shipwrecks and unrivalled sunrises

Just a short distance from Whitby lies a breathtaking beach brimming with fossils, shipwrecks and unparalleled sunrises.

Saltwick Bay is just a two-hour drive from Huddersfield and a brisk five-minute trip from Whitby itself. The stunning and dramatic North-East coastline is a sight to behold in its own right, but it encircles a sandy stretch steeped in history.

On the brief 1.5-mile stroll from Whitby you’ll encounter the Gothic Bronte-esque ruins of Whitby Abbey and the charming harbour entrance.

This picturesque walk meanders past Whitby Holiday Park where steps descend to the beach. The Whitby Guide advises checking tide times to ensure you’re not stranded by the incoming tide blocking the steps on your return journey, reports Yorkshire Live.

Fossils.

The cliffs, prone to rock falls, loom over a bed of fossils concealed among shale and shingle. These spots are ideal for exploration, with numerous Ammonites nestled between the smooth stones.

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In addition, you can discover jet, the gemstone for which Whitby is renowned.

This site of special scientific interest (SSSI) has yielded many scientific finds over the years, including the skeleton of a Teleosaurus Stenosaurus Bollensis unearthed in 1824, along with additional dinosaur footprints spotted on the beach. This prehistoric crocodile now resides at the Whitby museum.

Alum quarries.

The proximity of the fossils to the surface is due to the area’s rich mining heritage. The quarries have exposed the wealth of fossils that visitors now stumble upon.

The first alum mine was established by Thomas Challoner in the 16th century, following Henry VIII’s reformation of the UK after his marriage to Anne Boleyn.

This came about because Britain had previously imported alum from Italy, but the industry was under the Pope’s control – with whom Henry had severed ties.

When Italy stopped its supply, the UK was left without until 1649, when the vital chemical was discovered at Saltwick Bay. Under the guidance of Italian alum workers, Sir Hugh Chomley then opened a mine.

In 1673, authorisation was granted for a harbour to be constructed to transport the alum. By 1770, an alum house for the workers was built adjacent to the quarry.

However, mining ceased in 1791 when alum was replaced by aniline dyes.

Today, remnants of the mine still linger, with a ramp extending into the sea and patches of deep red shale where the shingle was extracted.

Sunrise and Sunset.

Saltwick Bay is famed for its breathtaking sunrises and sunsets. The rock pools reflect the vibrant hues of the golden sun, and from May to July, the rare ‘double sun’ phenomenon casts a second radiant orb over the sea.

Shipwrecks.

The grand Admiral Von Tromp trawler remains a significant part of local history, with the ship’s downfall forever etched on the beach.

The sturdy remains stand tall, and you can get up close to them on Saltwick Bay, stepping back in time to marvel at the maritime catastrophe.

On 30 June 1976, the Admiral Von Tromp set sail from Scarborough Harbour bound for Barnacle Bay. However, it never reached its destination, instead running aground on the rocks at Saltwick Bay.

The HMHS Rohilla also met its end here. In the early hours of 29 October 1914, with 229 souls aboard, the HMHS Rohilla struck the rocks at Saltwick Nab.

At the onset of World War I, it was en route to Dunkirk, tasked with navigating the perilous East Coast, evading German submarines and the treacherous North Sea coastlines.

Yet, it was Whitby’s rocks that sealed its fate, as the Rohilla shattered its bow upon them.

Alnwick Garden in Northumberland is a stunning family attraction just 40 minutes from Newcastle with treetop walkways, 100 deadly plants behind locked gates, beautiful cherry blossoms and a miniature castle for kids

In the heart of Northumberland, lies an enchanting modern garden complete with elevated walkways, its very own toxic plant collection and soaring delphiniums.

During springtime, Alnwick Garden bursts with a canopy of gorgeous cherry blossoms – and children can swing amongst the petals on charming wooden twin-seat swings. The Japanese Cherry Orchard springs to life with all of its magnificent 326 Taihaku cherry trees. Yet the spectacle continues during the chillier months. In October the same trees’ foliage transforms to a stunning rich bronze shade, according to Visit Northumberland.

The garden, brimming with vibrant patches of colour, was conceived through the Duchess of Northumberland’s vision of a breathtaking landscape garden featuring interactive water displays and a genuinely distinctive miniature fortress for youngsters, reports Chronicle Live.

Created by Jacques and Peter Wirtz, the Grand Cascade forms the garden’s centrepiece with water cascading through the multi-level fountains.

Nevertheless, if you wander to the garden’s edges, there’s additional treasure to uncover, including the Rose Garden, the Serpent Garden and the Poisonous Garden.

For those undaunted by altitude – there’s also a 200-metre long, raised timber pathway snaking through a grove of lime trees. Forming part of one of the globe’s largest wooden treehouses, the construction boasts unstable bridges and rope passages.

Beyond secured wrought iron gates sits the garden housing more than 100 hazardous plants including poisonous and narcotic varieties. Access to the garden is restricted to private guided tours only – which inform visitors about the sinister aspects of horticulture.

A brief stroll from the main garden leads to Lilidorei- an enchanting immersive village offering numerous activities for children including Elf story time, according to Lilidorei’s website.

The 26-metre play structure features bridges, ladders, swings and towers plus six different slides – sufficient to entertain youngsters for hours.

Kelly B said on Trip Advisor: ” What made the visit still worth it was Lilidorei (I’ve written a separate review for that) and the Poison Garden.

“The Poison Garden is completely fenced in and you can only go inside during a guided tour (free with garden admission). I timed it just right and was able to join a tour shortly after they started. I’m not sure what her name was, but we had an excellent guide. We got to see the plants and hear about how they were poisonous.

“The guide had pictures to show us of what they look like blooming. A few of the plants were even in cages for safety reasons. We got to hear some stories of murderers who used the poisons to kill their victims, some fairly recently. It was a fascinating tour.”

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Out on the water, paddling across the straits between two small rocky islands, the dusk fades and the stars appear. Jennie has done her best to coach me in local geography before darkness, showing me the map with its patchwork of islands and bays, and describing the shape of each landmark. All to no avail. I’m more than happy to be lost at sea, leaning back in my kayak to gaze at the constellations, occasionally checking that the red light on the stern of her kayak is still visible ahead. We stop in the sheltered lee of an island and hear a hoot. “Eurasian eagle owl,” says Jennie. “They nest here.” Then she switches off all the lights. “Let’s paddle slowly close to shore. Watch what happens.”

As soon as we move, the sea flickers into life, every paddle stroke triggering thrilling trails of cold, blue sparkles. When we stop, I slap my hand on the surface and the sea is momentarily electrified into a nebulous neural network of light, like some great salty brain figuring out this alien intrusion. Below that, squadrons of jellyfish pulse their own spectral contribution.

“When I was a child,” Jennie whispers (we are both whispering), “there was no light pollution. We would throw stones from the shore to see what we called ‘sea fire’.” I spend a pointless few minutes attempting to photograph this elusive bioluminescence, then relax and simply enjoy it. Travel should broaden the mind, not the iCloud.

We are in the maze of deserted islands off Hälsö (population: 569), one of 10 inhabited islands in Sweden’s northern Gothenburg archipelago. To get here, all it took was a short bus ride out of Sweden’s second city, a brief ferry ride, then a leisurely hike along the new coastal trail that snakes round these islands, using bridges, causeways and ferries to connect. It does not feel like a lot, not for the sensation of being on the far side of the Milky Way in a kayak-shaped flying saucer.

My own definition of an island is any land mass surrounded by water that is large enough for Robinson Crusoe to survive on. I want a beach, a lookout point and enough driftwood to build a shack. The Swedish mapping office, Lantmäteriet, however, defines an island as anything more than 9 sq metres, an area sufficient to pitch a small tent. Using this definition, Sweden boasts in excess of 260,000, though only about 8,000 have ever been settled and less than 1,000 are now inhabited. My aim on this trip is to visit about half a dozen in the Gothenburg archipelago.

The new footpath is a 21.7-mile(35km) section of the much longer Kuststigen trail that goes from Gothenburg to Oslo, but this small slice is worth taking a little time over. I base myself in Skärgårdshotellet on Hönö, where there are a few cafes and restaurants. It’s a quiet place outside school summer holidays. On the first morning, I walk over a soaring bridge to the southernmost island of Fotö and discover why the relatively short distances can take time. As soon as the path leaves the road, you are on a maze of boulders, a massive adventure playground for anyone who loves leaping and scrambling. The fantastical patterns of striations, crystallisation and lichen only cause further delays.

I am almost late back to Hönö for my boat trip with Lasse, an avuncular computer expert turned sailor, who takes visitors out on his veteran fishing vessel. We do not spot any seals – the ostensible objective – but that doesn’t matter. We spend a couple of hours wending our way through the uninhabited islands out to the archipelago’s farthest point, the rocky outcrop of Vinga. This was once home to Evert Taube, one of Sweden’s great folk music balladeers, whose father was the lighthouse keeper.

That evening, back in Hönö, in the Tullhuset restaurant at the harbour mouth, I sit with the owner, Preben Pedersen, and watch the Vinga lighthouse flash. “The islands are very proud of the Evert Taube connection,” he tells me. “Music has always been important here. The church played a big part in that.”

As usual, however, the devil had the best tunes. While the islands were once officially “dry”, smuggling and illicit production were rife, and had their own geography: Moonshine Bay was a popular hangout for local folk music heroes such as Arne I Bora (real name John Arne Jansson) who blasted out a rougher kind of melody. (He made one album, after relentless encouragement from locals). Preben’s brother, Leif, upholds the tradition, occasionally playing at the restaurant. The church retains a strong presence: I see signs out for prayer meetings. “Don’t miss the old church on Öckerö,” Jennie had told me while we were kayaking. “As kids, we were terrified of it!”

Next day, I meet local climber Andreas Lundqvist at Ersdalen, a vast boulder-strewn coastal area on Hönö. Andreas brings a crash mat and I turn myself inside out attempting routes that he breezes up without any apparent effort. The mix of the otherworldly seascape and Andreas’s storytelling about growing up on the islands and subsequent adventures makes the whole experience hugely enjoyable.

Exploring the archipelago is made simple with the Västtrafik app on your phone, so I catch the ferry out to the last, most northerly island, Rörö. The weather has turned from blue skies to thick mist, but this suits the sparse, mysterious splendour of a remote island. I squelch through bogs, scramble over lichen-crusted boulders and come across wild ponies.

The ferry back connects promptly with a bus that takes me back across the islands. There is one more place I want to explore: the old church on Öckerö. Why did local kids such as Jennie grow up terrified of this place?

It is a simple red-roofed Scandinavian church dating from the 1450s, but the door is locked and the windows too high to see anything. Determined to get inside, I ring around local contacts and get the number of the verger who agrees to come down. Ten minutes later, he arrives and unlocks, but does not enter. “Text me when you’re finished,” he says.

In the small vestibule there are some ancient stones and a sword. I step into the nave. There are 17th-century models of sailing ships in cases either side, and everything is as might be expected, with robust, precise woodwork. Then I see the ceiling frescoes. The rear of the church roof is a painted hell. No wonder the island kids were terrified: fire-breathing monsters and demons dance across the barrel-vaulted timbers, torturing sinners who are sinking into scarlet flames. But then a suspended sailing ship points the way to salvation, the colours lighten, and by the time I reach the altar, everyone is floating on clouds and blowing trumpets. I guess those are the ones who stayed away from Moonshine Bay. Painted in 1792, it is a tour de force.

Eventually, I drag myself away, text the verger and, after just a couple of bus rides and a ferry, step down in Gothenburg. I’m still feeling a little dazed, as if I’ve been somewhere very far away indeed.

The trip was provided by the Gothenburg Tourist Board and travel to Gothenburg by Interrail (a four-day in within one month adult pass is £189). The Skårgårdshotellet has doubles from £93. Jennie Walker takes evening kayak tours from £63pp Andreas Lundqvist offers bouldering adventures from £115. Boat trips with Lasse from £20