Edinburgh

DID you know that the UK is home to Europe’s largest wave pool?

The resort that’s a haven for surfers has just been named as the best of its kind in the world – it also has on-site restaurants and luxury lodges.

Lost Shore Surf Resort in Ratho has been named the World’s Best Surf Park by Blooloop.

The publication assessed the likes of on-site food and drink, overnight accommodation, hot tubs and recovery pools, viewing areas.

The resort was a £60million project and is found on a Craigpark Quarry just outside of Edinburgh.

It opened in 2024 and last year welcomed 200,000 visitors – of course most were enticed by the fact that it’s home to Europe’s largest wave pool which provides top tiers water conditions for keen surfers.

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Surf lesson start from £65 (£55 for children) and is coached in groups of eight with qualified instructors.

For those who are more experienced, a ‘surf session’ starts from £60 (£50 for children) – you can choose the wave setting and get started.

There are also surfskate lessons on offer which is a form of skateboarding that feels like surfing on dry land – and is recommended for beginners before heading into the water.

These start from £22.50 (£17 for children).

While Lost Shore Resort is obviously a haven for surfers, but there’s so much more to do on-site too from checking out its food options, to checking into its beautiful pods and lodges.

The high-end luxury Hilltop Lodges at the resort have sweeping views across the cove.

Inside are open plan living areas with up to four bedrooms and are ideal for families or large groups.

A stay in a Hilltop Lodge which sleeps up to eight people starts from £200 (with a minimum two night stay).

The cheapest stay is in the waterfront pods which are right next to the wave pool and each comes with a floating super king bed.

It’s high-tech so guests get touchscreen and app control over the pod -it has mood lighting and the en-suite bathroom has underfloor heating.

A one-night stay in the pod which sleeps up to two people starts from £100 per night.

There are plenty of offers for those who want to ‘surf and stay’ with one night in a Waterfront Pod along with four surfs starting from £300.

Blooloop added: “The venue goes above and beyond the core surf park offerings through its Surf Therapy collaborations with The Wave Project and Inclusive Surfing Scotland.

“Weekly events fill the calendar like Quiz Night, dance events, movie premieres, kids surf camps and specialty surf competitions.”

The resort focuses on wellness too, so the resort also has a spa with a wood-fired sauna – a 30-minute session is just £10.

Visitors and members can also book massages and other treatments.

There are even surf-inspired treatments like ‘soulful surfer’ which is an aromatherapy and rebalance ritual.

It’s loved by visitors too, one wrote on Tripadvisor: “Lost Shore is a Phenomenal place. The food was amazing, surf was awesome and the accommodation was stunning. I would highly recommend a visit.”

Another guest added: “The facility is incredible, looks beautiful and the attention to detail of every aspect is clear to see. We stayed in a large pod and it was amazing, right beside the pool, big rooms, kitchen, all the amenities you could want.”

Over the Easter holidays, Lost Shore Resort is offering family stays in the Hilltop Lodges from £150 per night.

And for anyone staying in the months of February and March, guests can enjoy a free brunch, from pastries to granola, toasted croissants and breakfast baps.

There are three different restaurants at the canteen on the resort – lost Kitchen which serves up the likes of chunky fish fingers and fried chicken with chips.

At Lost Taco, dig into Mexican favourites of tacos, burritos and nachos, or opt for Civerinos or pizzas and crispy gnocchi.

As for where to find it, Lost Shore Resort is 25 minutes from Edinburgh‘s city centre.

For more on surfing, one writer visited The Wave near Bristol – which is the second best surf park in the world.

Plus, check out this exotic new ‘floating’ outdoor swimming pool to open right by the River Thames.

Leinster: Osborne; Kenny, Ioane, Mangan, Moloney; Tector, McGrath; Cahir, McKee, Sparrow; Snyman, Deeney; Deegan, Penny, Mangan.

Replacements: McCarthy, Usanov, Smyth, O’Tighearnaigh, Eriscon, Connors, Gunne, McLaughlin.

Edinburgh: Paterson; Satala, Goosen, Lang, Van der Merwe; Thompson, Vellacott; Venter, J. Blyth-Lafferty, Hill; Hunter-Hill, Young; Muncaster, Douglas, Bradbury.

Replacements: Morris, Jones, O. Blyth-Lafferty, Dodd, Boyle, Shiel, Scott, O’Conor.

Why go now

Leith is Edinburgh’s port district, where people, goods and new ideas have flowed into the city for centuries. Here, the Water of Leith river meets the sea, and on bright days, when pubs and restaurants spill out to the Shore area, there’s nowhere quite like it. I moved here 13 years ago, and it has been a joy to watch the area evolve and reinvent itself. Today it’s the city’s creative heart, full of artists, musicians, designers and startups, with a thriving food and drink scene. The arrival of the tramline from Edinburgh city centre in 2023 has given it a big boost too.

Although the Leith immortalised in Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting is long gone, to call it fully gentrified would be failing to pay attention. Two recent campaigns, both successful, have galvanised locals: one to stop Waterstones opening near the independent Argonaut Books; and the other to return the benches used by day-drinkers on the Kirkgate, which had been removed by the council. There’s space for both in Leith.

What keeps me here is the strong, village-like community spirit, paired with the ever-changing energy of a city. One day I can get stuck into digging on the Community Croft; the next I’m immersed in art galleries, gigs and fine dining. For visitors, Leith offers a slice of real Edinburgh, with no bus tours, shops selling tartan tat, or out-of-tune bagpipes.

Where to eat and drink

Leith’s food and drink ranges from Michelin-starred restaurants to community cafes, old-men’s pubs to smart cocktail bars. Over the past few years there has been a flurry of openings that mirror the creativity of the area. “Leith has the perfect mix of old and new: places that have been here for decades, and new energy coming through,” says chef Barry Bryson. “It’s multicultural, rich and varied, and serves a community of diners, not just one demographic.” Bryson opened his first restaurant, Barry Fish, on the Shore in early 2025. Immediately it became one of my favourite places to eat. I recommend cosying into the calm green interiors and ordering the trout pastrami and lobster agnolotti.

Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron and her husband, Shaun McCarron, opened the cafe-bar Ardfern in 2024, next door to their fine-dining restaurant The Little Chartroom. I’ve eaten there at every hour, enjoying lazy brunches, birthday lunches, early evening oysters and long dinners with friends. The hash browns are non-negotiable, most recently topped with sprout kimchi, fish sauce aioli and nori. “It’s inspiring to be part of a supportive, creative community,” says Shaun.

That emphasis on community is echoed at Dogstar, newly opened by chef James Murray along with Michael Lynch and Kyle Jamieson of Nauticus bar. After years cooking at the highest level and earning a Michelin star at Timberyard, Murray found an increasing sense of disconnect with the world of fine dining. “The next stage for me was wanting to live and work in my community, so choosing Leith was intentional,” he says. “There’s a pride to people down here. If it’s a Leith spot cooking for Leith people, they get behind you.” Sitting at the bar watching dishes spin in the kitchen, eating shellfish straight from the coals, and dunking warm focaccia into anchovy sauce, I’m certainly behind this restaurant.

Cultural experiences

To discover Leith’s artistic community, visit Custom Lane, a collaborative design space in the old Custom House building on the river, with artists’ workshops, galleries and an excellent cafe. Onsite, Bard is a gallery and shop designed to look like the home of a collector. Husbands Hugo Macdonald and James Stevens travel across Scotland bringing contemporary Scottish design to Leith, inviting the curious to explore the integration of high-end design in a domestic environment. Regardless of your interiors budget, it’s not to be missed.

Across the river is Brown’s of Leith, the newest outpost of Custom Lane. This vast three-storey Victorian warehouse has been transformed into a multi-use creative space by GRAS architects. On the ground floor, three food businesses – ShrimpWreck shellfish bar, Haze for wine and top-tier snacks, and Civerinos pizza – share a relaxed dining area, with more residents, events and collaborations imminent. “At Brown’s we identified a need for spaces that genuinely support and celebrate creativity,” says architect Gunnar Groves-Raines of GRAS. The restaurateurs are equally enthusiastic. “Leith has a strong sense of identity: independent, creative and rooted in its history,” says Joseph Radford of Haze. “Our intention is to respond to that rather than overwrite it.” I visit early in the evening when the lights are low, the music perfectly pitched and the atmosphere a relaxed buzz. Soon our table is full of oysters, bowls of mussels and tinned fish on toast. It’s a lot of fun.

Further collaborative art spaces across Leith are also worth exploring. Between Drill Hall, The Biscuit Factory and Coburg House Art Studios, there’s always something interesting going on. And there’s more to come – after years of tireless volunteer fundraising and campaigning, Leith theatre has been awarded lottery funding to restore the beautiful 1932 art deco building to its former glory. Pop-ups in the space, including a past Edinburgh international festival residency, have offered a thrilling glimpse of the future.

Where to shop

Leith is home to some great independent shops. Argonaut Books, inside the old train station, is run by people passionate about reading, and has a lovely cafe and regular events. Arty gift shops include Logan Malloch, Flux and Handsel on Leith Walk – all sell work by local artists. For interesting wine, head to the tiny independent Bludge.

Don’t miss

The Royal Yacht Britannia attracts hundreds daily, keen for a glimpse of how the monarchs holidayed. But I prefer the Port of Leith Distillery, an impressive-looking “vertical distillery” where whisky production takes place from top-to-bottom over nine storeys. Tours of the stills are fascinating and the views over the Firth of Forth to Fife from the cafe and bar are unmatched. Take a stroll along the Water of Leith path, perhaps followed by a visit to a taproom for a fresh pint. Leith has a flourishing craft brewery scene, and Moonwake, Campervan and Newbarns all have welcoming taprooms.

Stay

Malmaison Edinburgh has smart riverside rooms (from £77 room-only), or push the boat out (pun intended) and spend the night on board Fingal (cabins from £269 B&B), a former lighthouse tender turned luxury hotel, permanently moored in Leith.