Dorset

The spot is renowned for its striking chalk cliffs, charming villages and coastal walks – making it the perfect autumn getaway for families and couples

With its untouched landscapes, fascinating heritage and tranquil way of life, one UK destination has become a haven for ramblers, nature lovers and tourists looking for a serene seaside retreat. West Wight, located on the western edge of the Isle of Wight, is famous for its dramatic chalk cliffs, delightful villages and endless attractions.

Getting to the Isle of Wight is remarkably easy. Red Funnel operates services between Southampton and the Island via both car ferry and rapid foot-passenger routes, meaning you can bring your vehicle or rely entirely on public transport.

October makes an ideal time for a visit now the summer holiday crowds have dispersed.

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The Needles and Alum Bay

Amongst the Isle of Wight’s most iconic sights, The Needles comprise a series of impressive chalk formations rising majestically from the ocean off the island’s western shore.

Close by, Alum Bay is renowned for its rainbow-hued sand cliffs, sweeping coastal panoramas and classic seaside diversions, establishing it as a must-visit destination for those discovering the region. When visibility is good, the surrounding shoreline provides magnificent views stretching across the English Channel.

Freshwater and Freshwater Bay

Freshwater ranks among West Wight’s main settlements, providing gateway access to some of the island’s most beautiful coastal landscapes. Just south of the village, Freshwater Bay boasts a stunning shingle beach framed by dramatic chalk cliffs.

The spot is perfect for coastal walks, photography and soaking up the seaside atmosphere, with swimming on offer when conditions allow.

Tennyson Down and the coastal paths

Perched above Freshwater Bay, Tennyson Down is a vast expanse of open grassland that provides some of the Isle of Wight’s most spectacular walking routes.

The area is named after Victorian poet Alfred, Lord Tennyson, who resided close by at Farringford. Visitors can take in sweeping sea views, rolling countryside and the chance to spot local wildlife, making it a firm favourite amongst walkers and nature enthusiasts.

Yarmouth

Nestled on the island’s north-west coast, Yarmouth is a historic harbour town renowned for its charming streets, independent shops, traditional pubs and cafés.

The town is also home to Yarmouth Castle, a historic coastal fortification, and acts as a key ferry hub linking the Isle of Wight with Lymington in Hampshire.

With its rich maritime heritage and laid-back atmosphere, Yarmouth provides a delightful contrast to the island’s larger, more bustling resorts.

Weather in October

October in West Wight typically brings mild yet unpredictable weather, making it an attractive time for coastal walks, countryside adventures and discovering quieter seaside villages. Visitors should come prepared for the odd shower and breezy spells.

Daytime temperatures typically sit between 13°C and 16°C, while night-time lows usually hover around 8°C to 11°C. Periods of sunshine can feel comfortably mild, though temperatures dip considerably once the sun goes down.

How to get to West Wight

By car

One of the easiest ways to reach West Wight is via the Wightlink car ferry from Lymington, located in the New Forest, to Yarmouth on the Isle of Wight.

The journey takes approximately 40 minutes, providing a simple route for drivers heading to the western side of the island. Upon arrival in Yarmouth, travellers can quickly access nearby spots such as Freshwater Bay, Totland and The Needles.

Without a car

Those travelling without a vehicle can catch a train to Portsmouth Harbour before hopping on the Wightlink FastCat passenger ferry to Ryde Pier Head on the Isle of Wight.

The crossing takes roughly 22 minutes, making it an efficient choice for those on foot. From Ryde, connecting bus services through Newport link passengers to West Wight, including Freshwater and the nearby coastal communities.

Many favour a circular walk, but you can give a linear one new shape with the addition of a novel form of transport. My wife Helen, our friend Tom Cox and I take the water taxi – a rigid inflatable boat (Rib) – from West Bay on Dorset’s coast to Lyme Regis, with a plan to walk back to our starting point.

The rain stops as the boat leaves the harbour, the views open along Chesil Beach to low-lying Portland to the east, and west to Lyme Regis; on the far horizon, we can see Start Point on the Devon coast. Our skipper, Nick, is highly knowledgable and takes time to stop and point out the history of the shoreline and the treacherous waters of Lyme Bay. The seabed is studded with wrecks – fishing boats and smugglers’ ships, but some are from the two world wars.

On New Year’s Day 1915, the battleship HMS Formidable was torpedoed by a German submarine. Of its crew of 750, no more than 200 survived. In the second world war, the Dorset coast was a huge mustering station for the allied forces in preparation for D-day. During Exercise Tiger, a large-scale rehearsal for the Normandy landings, hundreds of American service personnel were killed in an attack by German boats later known as the Battle of Lyme Bay – the wreck sites are now designated war graves.

At Lyme Regis, we disembark on to the Cobb, the harbour wall that snakes unsteadily into the bay and was made famous by Jane Austen, who had Louisa jump from it in Persuasion, and by John Fowles, who lived in Lyme. The movie adaptation of his novel The French Lieutenant’s Woman starred Meryl Streep as Sarah Woodruff. Its famous trailer begins with the actor sweeping across the Cobb, the hood of her cloak covering her face. For the filming, many buildings in the town were given a 19th-century facade. For a film that plays with time, it seems appropriate that the town’s bookshop kept its temporary fascia for many years.

Our walk back to West Bay is 10 miles long and begins not along the coast but by heading inland. The west Dorset coast is friable – the cliffs keep falling on to the beaches, and the path to Charmouth takes a diversion through a golf course. It wasn’t always like this: once there was a coastal road, Long Entry, between the two settlements. In 1725, Henry Fielding, then aged 17, attempted to abduct his cousin Sarah, with whom he was infatuated, from Lyme. The future novelist made his escape along Long Entry before being stopped by her guardian.

Our walk back to the coast is interrupted by a sculpture on the path. The shape of a woman, angular and determined, a hammer in her outstretched right hand, the other holding above her head the skeleton of a prehistoric animal. There’s another recent sculpture of the same subject, Mary Anning, in Lyme Regis, recording her importance to palaeontology and to the town, but this upland creature, made by Greta Berlin, is wilder, perfectly suited to its woodland setting. The representation of the fossil held aloft is Anning’s discovery: Ichthyosaurus anningae. One cannot walk this section of Dorset’s coast without being aware of its ancient past and the fragile geology close to the surface. Our boat trip began on crumbly sandstone, which gave way to fossil-rich clay as we travelled west.

Charmouth is a pretty village with no harbour; its shallow waters make it popular with those learning to swim or paddleboard. This next section of the South West Coast Path, to West Bay, coincides with the Monarch’s Way, the route that Charles II took to flee to mainland Europe after the civil war. Our day is more peaceful but the path is steep. We’re grateful for Tom’s company – his latest novel, Everything Will Swallow You, is infused with the history and landscape of the Dorset coast and his knowledge enlivens our walk, as do the pasties he brings, baked by his wife, Ellie.

We pass the remains of St Gabriel’s Church, which fell into disuse in the 18th century, although smugglers found within its walls useful shelter for their contraband. Soon we’re on Golden Cap, the highest point on the south coast – 191 metres (627ft) above sea level, with extraordinary views over Lyme Bay. At Seatown, we stop at the Anchor Inn for refreshments, meeting friends who have opted for a shorter walk. From Thorncombe Beacon, we descend to Eype Mouth – in Old English Eype is “Steep Place”; the church in this secluded village was chosen by PJ Harvey to record Let England Shake, a Mercury prize-winning album rich with the echoes of war.

There are further reminders of the coast’s fragility on the final stretch to West Bay – one sign references a cliff fall in 2020, and the path is frequently redirected to safer routes. West Bay, a small stone town, was once the harbour from where Bridport exported its rope and was originally called Bridport Harbour, but had its name changed by the railway company hoping to attract tourists. The railway is long gone – its station now hosts a restaurant in railway carriages – but West Bay, with its stalls for chips and views back towards Lyme, is a fitting place to end, a town out of time.

OS Explorer 116 (Lyme Regis & Bridport) covers the entire walk from Lyme Regis to West Bay. The Lyme Bay Water Taxi operates during the summer months; there is a year-round bus service between West Bay and Lyme Regis. Jon Woolcott is the author of Real Dorset and The Tattooed Hills, Journeys to Chalk Figures