discovered

I discovered an island paradise in Portugal for foodies, wine lovers and adventurers

From mountain hikes and whale watching to wine tasting and gourmet dining – there’s no shortage of things to do in Madeira

It didn’t take us long to discover that Madeira is an island of striking contrasts. Towering mountains and plunging valleys, a vibrant city and unspoilt natural parks. Even the weather keeps you on your toes, shifting from overcast skies to dazzling sunshine in moments, thanks to the island’s many microclimates.

The capital, Funchal, is defined by its charming mosaic cobblestones in the cathedral quarter, winding restaurant-lined lanes in the old town, and a sweeping seafront promenade with steps leading down to the sea for those fancying a spontaneous swim.

During our walking tour of the city, we took in the elaborate gothic cathedral, indulged in sweet treats at the celebrated chocolatier Uaucacau, and stumbled upon exotic fruits we’d never encountered before at the central market – from banana passion fruit to monstera deliciosa, which apparently tastes remarkably similar to pineapple when fully ripened, reports OK!.

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There’s no shortage of things to discover beyond the city either, as we found out when we ventured further afield around the island.

Madeira: an island built for adventure

Feeling energetic, we tackled the Vereda da Ponta de Sao Lourenço, a 7km round-trip hike leading to the most easterly tip of Madeira. The rocky trail demands a fair amount of stair-climbing, but the payoff is absolutely worth it – jaw-dropping panoramic views of the stunning coastline await. We’d strongly advise heading out early, as the path becomes considerably crowded from mid-morning onwards.

A jeep tour offers the finest way to explore the island’s north coast. Our itinerary took in beaches, waterfalls and a rum distillery where we sampled the local beverage Poncha Regional – a blend of rum, honey, lemon and orange juice. But the true standout moment came when venturing off-road into the verdant laurel forest, jolting along the muddy paths surrounded by tropical vegetation.

For our subsequent excursion, we headed to the harbour to embark on a whale-watching trip. We ended up considerably more drenched than anticipated as we raced across the ocean in our rib. While the rear seat might be the safest option for those prone to seasickness, it’s also where the majority of the spray appears to hit. We were, however, treated to the sight of a pod of bottlenose dolphins frolicking in the waves – and the tour guide graciously offered us a towel!

For a more tranquil afternoon we travelled to the spa at The Vine Hotel to experience its Red Wine Divine Bath. The 90-minute treatment features a gentle exfoliation using crushed grape seeds, a soak in a bubbling tub of red wine-infused water – with a glass of wine to savour for that additional touch of indulgence – and a full body massage to round off the blissful experience.

Discover the Madeira Wine Festival

The Madeira Wine Festival takes place from late August through to mid-September and offers a fantastic opportunity to experience the island at its liveliest. It’s a tribute to local wine-making heritage, featuring concerts and theatrical shows across multiple locations. We made our way to the Wine Lounge along Funchal’s waterfront, where live entertainment accompanied pop-up stands from 11 Madeiran wine makers, giving us the chance to try numerous varieties. We also dropped by Quinta do Furão for its yearly celebrations, which included a buffet lunch, wine sampling and the chance to tread grapes barefoot.

Naturally, you don’t have to wait for the festival to enjoy Madeira’s wines. During a guided experience and tasting at Blandy’s Wine Lodge in Funchal, we discovered the wine-making techniques and were amazed by the enormous 9,000-litre oak casks. We also took part in a vineyard visit at Quinta Das Malvas, where we discovered how they combine vines through grafting to shield them from illness and why roses play a crucial role in assessing vine wellbeing.

Where to eat: restaurant recommendations and regional specialities

There’s certainly no lack of upmarket dining establishments in Madeira. We began our culinary adventure at Akua, a seafood spot nestled down a quiet side street in Funchal, where the tuna tartare cones and jumbo tiger prawn proved to be the highlights. At Three House, we savoured the chef’s table experience, where every dish is crafted right before your eyes. We’d highly recommend the red snapper ceviche and tacos packed with the local delicacy, black scabbardfish. Make sure you head up to the rooftop bar afterwards for a cocktail (open Wednesday to Saturday).

For an upmarket dining experience with breathtaking views, Avista is an absolute must. The outdoor terrace gazing out over the ocean is truly stunning, and our scallops with lime risotto and crème brûlée dessert were simply divine.

At Audax, we treated ourselves to the tasting menu – five courses crafted by the chef to capture the traditional flavours of Madeira, reimagined with a contemporary flair. Every dish was strikingly presented and packed with flavour. Over at Design Centre Nini Andrade Silva, we were won over by the sophisticated monochrome interior, gourmet dishes made from locally sourced produce and spectacular sunset views.

Where to stay in Madeira

Pestana Quinta Perestrello is a charming 37-room hotel on the outskirts of Funchal, lovingly converted from a traditional manor house. Its modest size lends it a wonderfully homely atmosphere, complete with a snug reading room and a quaint garden pool. Guests can also take advantage of the two neighbouring Pestana properties, which boast larger pools, restaurants and a health club. Central Funchal is just a 15-minute stroll away.

For a more indulgent experience, Casa Velha is a five-star boutique hotel situated alongside the breathtaking Palheiro Gardens. Here, the décor is opulent, the grounds are magnificent and the ambience is one of pure serenity. The restaurant Oxalis specialises in regional dishes with a contemporary twist and merits a visit even if you’re not staying there, as do the Palheiro Gardens themselves, where hundreds of plant species from across the globe flourish and trees soar to heights of 46 metres.

Arrange your own island getaway

For further details on accommodation, dining options and activities, head to VisitMadeira. EasyJet and British Airways provide direct flights to Funchal from the UK.

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