desert

Commenters who never have been — and never will go — complain about the cost, the influencers, the hype. Purists wax poetic about the days when they disappeared into three days of music and the field wasn’t overtaken by brands like Barbie and e.l.f. cosmetics. Defenders claim they can camp their way to an affordable weekend, and others spend the whole time posting. A select few even talk about great performances they saw — it’s still a music festival.

But one thing everybody can agree on: Coachella has changed. I should know. I’ve been covering it as a journalist since 2007.

Rapid advancements in technology and mass adoption of social media have brought out the best and worst of the festival — not just on screens thousands of miles away, but to those of us trying not to trip over the makeshift photoshoot you might have seen on Instagram.

Coachella pre-2010 was a purist’s paradise

Some of Coachella’s most iconic moments happened before smartphones: The Flaming Lips in a human hamster ball in 2004; Daft Punk’s 2006 pyramid set; Rage Against the Machine reuniting and calling for the George W. Bush administration to be tried for war crimes in 2007. If you even had a cellphone when Coachella started in 1999 it was probably a Nokia brick or a flip phone with an antenna that had limited talk and text options.

In the early years, there were no brand activations on the field; nobody knew what an influencer was and the only corporate sign you saw was for Heineken in the beer gardens. (There was no Heineken House with its own stage, just signs advertising the beer.)

The grounds were also considerably smaller, making it easier to explore the different stages and discover new music. You didn’t have fancy food options, but a slice of Spicy Pie was less than $10. (Coachella upgraded its food options from festival staples to weekend outposts of L.A. restaurants in 2014.)

The music was the draw. The festival’s track record includes artists like the Killers, the Black Keys, Childish Gambino and Kendrick Lamar climbing up from small type to headliner on the lineup poster.

Livestreams and influencers made Coachella’s reach global

The vibes started to shift in 2010 as smartphones grew in popularity, although the service on the field was spotty. It was the first year Coachella offered a livestream — available via Facebook and MySpace. The next year, the stream moved to YouTube, where it remains and draws millions of viewers.

As Coachella expanded to twin weekends due to popular demand on the ground in 2012, it also had the first viral moment fans could enjoy from thousands of miles away: Dr. Dre and Snoop Dogg brought 2Pac back to life via a hologram.

Celebrities were always at Coachella (I spotted Ryan Seacrest, Corbin Bernsen, David Hasselhoff and Danny DeVito in my early years), but the rise of social media made celebrity culture a key part of the event. By 2011, TMZ was posting about stars like Lindsay Lohan. Clips from Coachella went viral and ended up on shows like “Tosh.0” and referenced in “Community.”

The art, which was always part of the festival, became bigger and more iconic. On the growing photo app Instagram, larger-than-life sculptures of astronauts started appearing in selfies.

Brands saw an opportunity. American Express, H&M and Samsung launched activations on-site in 2015. The party scene outside the festival, with non-affiliated events that were timed because everyone was in town for Coachella, became marketing vehicles. Brands are still cashing in more than a decade later.

The next watershed moment was Beyoncé in 2018. Today, most headlining sets at the fest feel as if they are designed for the viewing experience on the livestream rather than the fans on the field (ahem, Justin Bieber and his laptop). But Beyoncé’s spectacle was just as mind-blowing on-site as it was at home. A year later, the “Homecoming” special debuted on Netflix, widening the reach.

Coachella became a key part of the pop culture landscape, and then it became a cornerstone of the influencer economy.

Behind all the hype, there’s still a music festival hiding

I inadvertently photobombed approximately 500 people just trying to go to and from the press tent last weekend and my inbox is overflowing with requests for coverage of off-site events with brands, celebs and TikTok influencers, including social media clips.

But at the end of the day, Coachella is still a music festival, and a really good one at that. The Strokes, David Byrne, Jack White, Iggy Pop, Turnstile, Wet Leg, Fujii Kaze and even Less Than Jake in the Heineken House were some of the best performances I had seen in years.

Coachella is what you make of it. And besides, everyone knows there are fewer influencers on Weekend 2.

Today’s top stories

Increasing measles cases in California

• California in 2026 has already seen its highest number of annual measles cases in seven years amid an ongoing resurgence of a disease once considered effectively eradicated in the U.S.
• The re-emergence comes as vaccination rates have tumbled nationwide in recent years.

Testing LAX’s long-awaited train

• LAX’s 2.25-mile electric train system will begin running without passengers next week as testing advances following a series of delays.
• The Automated People Mover system began construction in 2019 and was initially slated to open to the public in 2023.

Nationwide recall of a popular anxiety drug

• Specific bottles of Xanax, one of the most widely prescribed medications to treat anxiety and panic disorders, has been recalled due to its failure to dissolve at a standard rate.
• FDA officials are not warning against consuming the product at this time.

What else is going on

Commentary and opinions

This morning’s must-read

Another must-read

For your downtime

Going out

Staying in

A question for you: Are you planning on leaving California for another state? If so, tell us why.

Laura says, “I left California during the pandemic. Part of the push factor for me was politics, but not blue politics. I had been living in OC since 2018 and was surprised it was so Conservative (and conservative). That became a bigger source of discomfort for me as the vaccine question demonstrated how our neighbors’ decisions can impact us directly. Rather than moving elsewhere in California, which would have sorted out the political discomfort nicely, I moved to a much more affordable state where I had family.”

Email us at essentialcalifornia@latimes.com, and your response might appear in the newsletter this week.

And finally … from our archives

On April 16, 2018, Compton’s own Kendrick Lamar became the first hip-hop artist to win the Pulitzer Prize for music.

He won for his album “Damn.,” which the Times’ Mikael Wood heralded as Lamar’s graduation to pop superstardom.

Have a great day, from the Essential California team

Jim Rainey, staff reporter
Hugo Martín, assistant editor, fast break desk
Kevinisha Walker, multiplatform editor
Andrew Campa, weekend writer
Karim Doumar, head of newsletters

How can we make this newsletter more useful? Send comments to essentialcalifornia@latimes.com. Check our top stories, topics and the latest articles on latimes.com.

Perched high on the battlements of Almería’s 10th-century Alcazaba, looking over the mosaic of flat roofs tumbling down to the sea, I’m reminded of author Gerald Brenan’s travel classic South from Granada, and his impression upon arriving in Almería in 1920: “Certainly, it seemed that the sea was doubly Mediterranean here, and the city … contained within it echoes of distant civilisations.”

A British adventurer, Hispanist and fringe member of the Bloomsbury group, Brenan had walked to Almería from where he was living near Granada, apparently to buy extra furniture in preparation for a visit from Virginia Woolf and friends. A century later, my journey here in a 30-year-old van from London is somewhat less notable, but as I marvel at the almost surreal incandescence of the Med, and the maze of ancient streets below me, I too am aware of a sensation of time travel.

Brenan would have been a novelty visitor back then. And even today, unlike Málaga, just a couple of hours down the coast, Almería is little visited by international tourists, although the similarities between the two cities are striking. Both are ancient ports of beguiling tree-lined streets, a sparkling beach, a Moorish fort, and a 16th-century cathedral, yet Almería has so far remained under the radar, while Málaga is battling the effects of overtourism. Almería is reminiscent of the old Málaga, before its 1990s makeover, when its reputation as a sketchy port city was transformed by major investment and the overhaul of its waterfront into a soulless shopping and eating development.

Almería is 120 miles east along the coast, in Spain’s impoverished southeastern corner, in Europe’s only desert, and on the edge of the continent. Closer to Morocco than Madrid, it feels like an outpost. There is a tangible sense of being far away from the action – and the funding – but with a new high-speed rail service incoming from Madrid in 2027, and the development of the docks over the next few years to accommodate luxury cruise-ships, including green space, its status as the rough diamond of Andalucía may be about to change.

For now, Almería remains a living, working port, unpretentious in its charm, where ornate but gently crumbling townhouses sit alongside faded mid-century shopfronts, and the tang of diesel and fish in the salty air remind you that its waterfront is strictly for business. While Málaga’s port is now a top destination for superyacht spotting, the main purpose of Almería’s docks is as a ferry terminal for services to Algeria and Morocco. The border feels porous here, the nearby streets more like an extension of north Africa, with signs in Arabic advertising ferry tickets, stores offering Moroccan tea glasses and a handful of African fishers mending nets.

If you don’t mind the walk out of town, through a truck-park wasteland of sun-bleached concrete warehouses, you’ll be rewarded by a sumptuous seafood feast at bar 900 Millas, a genuine hideaway, wedged between loading bays, serving fresh catches from the adjacent fish market. Come at 4am on a weekday for breakfast with the fishers, or join the Almeríenses, dressed to the nines for Sunday lunch.

We stayed in the serene Hotel Catedral, a 19th-century palatial house in the centre of town on the pedestrian Plaza de la Catedral. Its rooftop bar offers close-up views of the cathedral and across to the partly restored Alcazaba, illuminated every night in its hilltop setting.

Wherever you wander in Almería, the Alcazaba looms above. Under the clean Mediterranean sunlight, its cool stone walls, cypress and palm trees, and gardens of flowing water channels provide a haven of rosemary-scented tranquillity. If you’ve ever been herded around Granada’s Alhambra in a strict time slot, a morning at Almería’s Alcazaba is the antidote. Entry is free to European citizens (including Britons), and you can explore at leisure, taking in the spectacular 360-degree views, from the arid mountains behind, to the glittering sea and the narrow streets of La Chanca, the city’s historic Arab quarter, below.

Historically home to Gypsies and fishers, La Chanca plays a significant role in Almería’s identity. A jumble of cave homes and tiny houses, tumbling down the hill to the docks, by turns rough and romantic, it served as a source of inspiration to the Movimiento Indaliano, an avant garde artistic and cultural collective that emerged here after the second world war. A permanent collection of the movement’s paintings, many featuring scenes and the people of La Chanca, is displayed at the Doña Pakyta art gallery in the city centre, providing a captivating insight into mid-century Almería.

Near the Alcazaba, the Moroccan cafe Teteria Almedina serves hot mint tea and chilled mint lemonade on a verdant terrace. In the old town, there are tapas bars at every turn, always packed. At Casa Puga, one of Almería’s oldest tapas bars, you’ll be lucky to squeeze through the door, let alone get a seat. Almería is one of Europe’s sunniest cities, where a four-hour siesta is adhered to like a religion (don’t try to get anything done in the afternoon), and the weekend is devoted entirely to socialising. As we wander from heaving plaza to heaving plaza, I’m envious of this fierce dedication to leisure. There is a pleasing sensation of the 20th-century’s analogue ways still holding sway.

Almería, the city and the province, is an outlier, not just geographically, but also spiritually, says José Antonio González Perez, of the local tourist office: “We are not like the rest of Andalucía. We have our own dialect, our own cuisine. But for a long time, we have been forgotten.”

This spirit of independence is tangible in the pride shown in Almería’s cultural heritage. The fascinating guitar museum celebrates the expert luthier Antonio de Torres Jurado, considered to be the father of the modern guitar, who was born and died in the city. The cinema museum and a walking trail reveal the locations of the many films that have been shot in the city and the surrounding desert, including Sergio Leone’s spaghetti westerns, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and Lawrence of Arabia. There’s even a Russ Meyer-inspired bar, La Mala, tucked away down a side alley.

For a small city Almería’s nightlife and creative spirit are strong. The ever-busy Picasso bookshop is an institution, with a full diary of author events; Paseo79 sells affordable works by local artists; and local music collective Clasijazz has transformed hundreds of lives with its grassroots conservatoire, dedicated to training young musicians, running jam sessions, and putting on gigs.

While Almería boasts its own 2-mile urban beach, it also makes a perfect base for exploring the wilder coast of this corner of Andalucía, and the Cabo de Gata-Níjar natural park. This 180 sq miles of wilderness is Europe’s only desert, hence its role in doubling for the American west in so many films. Its beaches are unspoiled by development, with just a scattering of tiny white villages nestled in coves, their swaying palm trees and bursts of red, pink and purple bougainvillaea mirroring the coast of north Africa across the water. Inland, the Sierra Alhamilla and the ancient Moorish village of Níjar in the foothills, known for its handicrafts including traditional glazed ceramics and jarapas (Andalucian woven rugs), are worth a visit too.

When Gerald Brenan arrived in Almería, his impression was of “a bucket of whitewash thrown down at the foot of a bare, greyish mountain. A small oasis …” He only intended to buy furniture and head back, but while waiting for money to be wired, he became embroiled with a local rascal who led him astray, into the fleshpots and seafarers’ drinking dens. It clearly made an impression on him, as he continued to be drawn back to Almería over the years, describing it as a “poetic” city with a “lost”, “forgotten” atmosphere. He said it produced an excitement in him he had not felt in other Spanish cities. As someone who has been exploring Spain for many years, I know exactly what he means.

For more information visit turismodealmeria.org

Spring has sprung in Los Angeles. In just a couple weeks, thousands of music lovers will make the trek to Indio’s Empire Polo Club for the Coachella Valley Music & Arts Festival, with dozens of L.A. chefs joining them. While in the desert, many festival goers take a detour through neighboring Palm Springs to explore museums, restaurants and bars before the dry climate climbs into the triple digits.

Closer to home, Los Angeles’ food scene is mourning the loss of two legendary haunts forced to permanently close their doors. After months of extensions, Cole’s French Dip closed at the end of March, though owner Cedd Moses said he was still hopeful that the city’s longest-running public house and rumored creator of the French dip sandwich would sell to a new owner. In Echo Park, Taix restaurant closed after 99 years of operation to make way for a six-story housing complex.

But it’s not all bad news for local restaurants. In Melrose Hill, a Bangladeshi chef has returned to the kitchen after a two-decade-long break from the industry. Across town, a viral smashburger spot from a celebrated chef is drawing lines for its juicy Wagyu patties. And for those heading to the desert, restaurant critic Bill Addison insists a modern Mexican pop-up is worth the weekday trip. Here are 13 places to put on your dining agenda this month:

I have never managed to score a reservation to Bar Cecil, the restaurant that opened in April 2021 as an homage to Sir Cecil Beaton, the famously flamboyant British photographer, designer, author and all-around Renaissance man who died in 1980. It remains, almost comically after five years in business, the most difficult place to book a table in the Coachella Valley. Long ago I made my peace with lining up before the restaurant opens at 5 p.m. and starting early at the unreserved 12-seat bar, or slipping in between 6:30 p.m. to 7:15 p.m. when the first wave of bar seating turns over. We all show up, whenever we can, for potent drinks and chef and partner Gabriel Woo’s menu, a worldly mix of Continental swagger, global-minded modernism and California realness.

In January, the same team branched out with Beaton’s at Bar Cecil, a posh affair next door that flips the script on the restaurant: more cocktail-centric, mostly snacky food you stretch into a meal. Tufted red velvet cascading from the ceiling drives the louche vibes. The mid-20th-century-era sketches and prints adorning the walls are significant enough that the staff composed a booklet full of descriptions and biographies. (You’ll need a phone light to read through it.) There’s an enclosed terrace where VIPs seeking privacy tend to hang out as the night wears on. Precision-engineered cocktails cover the spectrum of tastes: not-too-sweet Singapore slings, a sharp-tongued Vesper with lemon oil, a retro-chic grasshopper blending Creme de Menthe and pandan for a nightcap. I have always been fascinated that certain Hollywood hangouts serve pigs in a blanket, and here they are, mustardy and easy to down one after another alongside shrimp cocktail, duck-meat bao, oysters, fries and, of course, caviar. Beaton’s also takes reservations but walk-ins, however variable the wait, are welcome. Try your luck. This is absolutely the place to be in Palm Springs right now.