desert

Official Fadi al-Qassem says all residents have left al-Hol camp, which long housed relatives of alleged ISIL (ISIS) members.

Syrian authorities say they have fully evacuated and shut down a remote camp that once kept thousands of relatives of alleged members of the armed group ISIL (ISIS).

The last residents were sent out in a convoy Sunday morning, according to Fadi al-Qassem, the Syrian government official overseeing the camp.

“All Syrian and non-Syrian families were relocated,” al-Qassem told Agence France-Presse.

Al-Hol, located in a desert region of the northeastern Hasakah province, had long kept huge numbers of relatives of suspected ISIL fighters.

At its peak in 2019, the camp held some 73,000 people. Last month, there were about 24,000 residents, mostly Syrians but also Iraqis and more than 6,000 other foreigners of around 40 nationalities.

While the camp’s residents were not technically prisoners and most have not been accused of crimes, they had been held in de facto detention at the heavily guarded facility for years.

Last month, Syria’s government took control of the camp from Kurdish authorities, as Damascus extended its reach across northeastern Syria.

Since then, thousands of its detainees, including family members of suspected ISIL members, have left for unknown destinations. Hundreds have been sent to the Akhtarin camp in Aleppo province, while others have been repatriated to Iraq.

The Syrian Observatory for Human Rights, a war monitor based in the United Kingdom, reported an unspecified number of residents “left the camp individually, without waiting for the organised convoys”. Sources on the ground told Al Jazeera many Syrian nationals left al-Hol for their hometowns, while many of the foreigners travelled west to government strongholds of Idlib or Aleppo governorates.

Al-Qassem said residents who have been relocated are children and women who will “need support for their reintegration”.

The future of the smaller Roj camp in northeastern Syria, which also houses relatives of alleged ISIL members but remains under the control of the Kurdish-led Syrian Democratic Forces (SDF), remains to be seen.

Most of its inhabitants are foreigners whose home countries have largely refused to receive them.

Syrian authorities turned back buses carrying 34 Australian women and children on February 16 after they left the Roj camp, headed toward Damascus with plans to travel on to Australia. Australian authorities later said they would not repatriate the families.

“We have no sympathy, frankly, for people who travelled overseas in order to participate in what was an attempt to establish a caliphate to undermine and destroy our way of life,” said Australian Prime Minister Anthony Albanese, explaining his country’s stance.

While it is “unfortunate” that children have been affected, Australia is “not providing any support”, Albanese added.

After losing count of just how many bush poppy shrubs were blooming around me, I snapped a few photos of the delicate yellow flowers and texted them to my friend and colleague, Jeanette Marantos.

I didn’t expect to find so many blooming plants along the Mormon Rocks Interpretive Trail in San Bernardino National Forest. Jeanette, The Times’ plants writer, was often tasked each spring with answering whether Southern California would see a superbloom, and I had planned to tease her about whether this counted. I didn’t realize our short text exchange would be the last time we’d speak.

Jeanette, a beloved mother, grandmother, plant queen and journalist, died Saturday from a sudden heart emergency. We, the entire Times Features team, are devastated, along with the rest of our colleagues who knew her.

“She was the most loving person I ever met, probably to a fault in some cases. If she knew you and you were a part of her life, she was fiercely loyal always,” said her son, Sascha Smith.

Jeanette started writing for the Los Angeles Times in 1999, doing Money Makeovers until 2002. She returned to write for The Times’ Homicide Report in 2015 and she started writing gardening coverage in the Saturday section in 2016 before moving to the Features team in 2020 to cover all things flora full time.

Jeanette was maternal to me (and many others on our team). She often messaged me to see if I’d returned from a hike I’d taken for The Wild. Whenever I went skydiving (for work!), she wanted updates about when I’d landed. After I sent her the video, she wrote to me, “You are so much braver than I! I kept watching and thinking ‘when is he gonna pull that chute?! WHEN IS HE GOING TO PULL THAT CHUTE?!!!’” (I don’t think that I am braver than Jeanette was.)

Jeanette Marantos at the L.A. Times Plants booth at the Festival of Books on April 21, 2024.

(Maryanne Pittman)

Jeanette was also a strong LGBTQ+ ally. I am one of the few transgender people at The Times, and I knew Jeanette always had my back when work-related issues arose. I wrote about being trans and nonbinary for “Our Queerest Century,” The Times’ queer history project that published in 2024.

“I have been thinking about what to say after reading your beautiful piece about growing up queer in Oklahoma,” she wrote to me. “My first reaction was I wanted to hug you and tell you how sorry I was for the mean, ugly, stupid things you were told. And my second reaction was simply awe, that you worked through all of that and embraced yourself nonetheless, and found a way to forgive.”

I hope you enjoy the three trails below. I had one of the best days Friday that I’ve ever had hiking in Southern California. I was just so overwhelmed by the endless possibilities of discovery and adventure the desert provides. I was grateful for that joyful reserve when my heart broke open the following day over the news about Jeanette.

I hope your trip to the desert provides joy, healing or anything else your soul needs to bring home.

A view of the massive Mormon Rocks formation in San Bernardino National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

1. Mormon Rocks Interpretive Trail

Distance: 1 mile
Elevation gained: About 200 feet
Difficulty: Easy
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: Mormon Rocks Viewpoint Area (see note below)

The Mormon Rocks Interpretive Trail is a one-mile loop east of Wrightwood in the San Bernardino National Forest that will take you through beautiful desert and past land and boulders with thousands of years of history to share.

If you’ve ever been driving on the 15 Freeway south of Barstow and wondered, “What are those massive rocks,” they were likely Mormon Rocks. I’ve passed the site several times on my way to Wrightwood to hike in the San Gabriel Mountains and always wondered about the name. “This area is called ‘Mormon Rocks,’ but perhaps a more fitting title would be ‘Serrano Rocks.’ The name refers to the jutting sandstone formations that provided brief shelter for Mormon colonists who crossed this area in 1851 and founded the city of San Bernardino,” according to a U.S. Forest Service brochure.

The brochure suggests “Serrano Rocks” because the area was home to the Serrano people, who lived in the area from about A.D. 1200 to the mid-1800s. “Before the Serrano, archaic hunters and gatherers lived in the area for thousands of years,” according to the forest service.

Massive rock formations in the Mormon Rocks area of San Bernardino National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

To begin your hike, you will park near the Mormon Rocks fire station. You’ll need to arrive early in the day, as the gate to the trail closes at 4 p.m. Additionally, there are no public restrooms.

The trail will take you on an easy loop where you’ll gain enough elevation to get striking views of the massive white, pink and brown sandstone formations across State Highway 138. The trail would be fun for children 7 and older, as long as you’ve educated them on how to react if they see a rattlesnake. (Stay tuned — even an outdoors reporter must be reminded every now and then how to react!)

I usually use the citizen science app iNaturalist to identify plant and animal life on trails. The app uses your phone’s camera and artificial intelligence to identify in real time what’s before you. I had several years shaved off my life when I pointed my phone’s camera at a blooming narrowleaf goldenbush only to have iNaturalist suggest I was pointing at a “western rattlesnake.”

I leaped away, cursing loudly, but no one rattled their tail at me or made a sound. Was it an AI mistake or was I simply lucky enough to have encountered the most docile rattler in the Mojave Desert? Either way, I skedaddled on down the trail!

Bush poppies bloom along the Mormon Rocks Interpretive Trail in San Bernardino National Forest.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

For those seeking an accessible alternative, the area around the massive boulders across the street from the Interpretive Trail might be an option. There are several unofficial dirt paths that are fairly flat, although they might be washed out in places. There is a gentle path, though, that will take you next to the ancient mountainous boulders.

For those who hike the Interpretive Trail, I’d recommend visiting the boulders across the way afterward too. There are several unofficial paths, so take good care in choosing the best route. Whenever I’m boulder hopping, I like to remind myself when considering my route: What goes up must come down, including you!

Also, there is unfortunately a lot of illegal dumping that takes place at Mormon Rocks. If you’d like to help organize a cleanup effort, please contact me. I’d love to help return this area to the pristine environment it deserves!

A faint rainbow forms over the Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area near Pearblossom.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

2. Devil’s Punchbowl Loop Trail

Distance: 1.1 mile
Elevation gained: About 450 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? Yes
Accessible alternative: Vasquez Rock’s Juniper Meadow Walking Loop

The 1.1-mile Loop Trail at Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area takes visitors past massive sandstone formations from millions of years ago before they were warped and forced upward by tectonic pressure from multiple fault lines, including the Punchbowl and San Andreas faults.

You’ll begin your hike near the Devil’s Punchbowl Nature Center, which I’d recommend visiting if open. Poe and Blair, two female ravens who serve as animal ambassadors, live in an enclosure outside the center. They’re bonded to each other, sometimes holding each other’s beaks. (Yes, it is as precious as it sounds.)

The Devil’s Punchbowl Natural Area sits near the San Gabriel Mountains.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

As you hike down, you can observe 300-foot sandstone walls, shaped over millions of years by water, weather and other natural factors. The path dips down to Punchbowl Creek, which was flowing as of early February, and features several small water cascades. I enjoyed rock hopping along the creek, exploring more of the canyon.

Punchbowl Creek flows through the park, continuing to shape the sandstone rocks formed over millions of years.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

Keep a keen eye out near the creek, as bighorn sheep are sometimes in the area.

I would usually direct Wild readers to also check out the Devil’s Chair hike, a 7.4-mile out-and-back hike in Devil’s Punchbowl that leads to one of the most majestic overlooks in L.A. County. However, it’s closed right now. County workers told me it should reopen in a few weeks after they’re finished repairing it from damage caused by recent storms.

Instead, I’d recommend exploring the various boulder fields (with safety in mind!), a sort of choose-your-own adventure through the desert. Just make sure to respect any signage regarding private property or signs asking you to keep out of an area to protect sensitive habitat.

The Saddleback Butte Peak Trail leads hikers through the Western Mojave Desert to its Saddleback Butte, a 3,651-foot solitary mountain dating to the Cretaceous geologic period, roughly 70 million years ago.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

3. Saddleback Butte Peak Trail

Distance: 3.8 miles out-and-back (see notes for loop option)
Elevation gained: 1,030 feet
Difficulty: Moderate
Dogs allowed? No
Accessible alternative: Prime Desert Woodland Preserve in Lancaster

The Saddleback Butte Peak Trail is a 3.8-mile out-and-back trail near Lancaster that will take you past Joshua trees of every shape and size, fragrant creosote bushes and, if lucky, fields of blooming wildflowers. The trail ends at Saddleback Butte, “a 3,651-foot solitary mountain dating to the Cretaceous geologic period, roughly 70 million years ago,” according to a California State Parks brochure.

To begin your hike, you will park at the day-use spot in the campground area. You will first need to pay the day-use fee ($6 per vehicle, $5 for seniors, $3 for disabled guests) for Saddleback Butte State Park.

From the trailhead, you will hike about 1.3 miles east until the trail jags southeast and then north, a V-shaped path that will lead you to the top of Saddleback Butte. You will have impressive views atop this ancient peak of the San Gabriel Mountains, the Antelope Valley and miles more of the Mojave Desert.

Joshua trees dot the landscape at Saddleback Butte State Park near Lancaster.

(Jaclyn Cosgrove / Los Angeles Times)

If you’d like, you can turn this into a loop trail by hiking 1.5 miles back along the Little Butte Trail before turning southward onto the unpaved park road, which is just under a mile and will lead you back to the campground. This lollipop-loop style route would be just over four miles through this 2,955-acre park.

I hope you’re luckier than I was, and you spot desert tortoise, yucca moths and any other animals that will send delight into your soul.

(Altrendo / Getty Images)

3 things to do

1. Put the ‘fun’ in fungi in Arcadia
The Los Angeles Mycological Society will host its 42nd Annual Wild Mushroom Fair from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday at the L.A. County Arboretum. The fair will feature a mushroom walk, cooking demonstrations and more. The event is included with paid admission and free for Arboretum members. Learn more at lamushrooms.org.

2. Love the land back in L.A.
Coyotl + Macehualli needs volunteers from 3 to 5 p.m. Sunday to weed around budding wildflowers and emerging saplings. Participants are encouraged to bring offerings, like a song, tobacco or prayer, along with tools to help manage the land. Learn more at the group’s Instagram page.

3. Slam out the stumps in Chino Hills
Volunteers are needed Sunday at Chino Hills State Park Discover Center for Stump Fest 2, a community workday at the park. Volunteers will remove stumps that are taking water from the native tree habitat. Tools and leadership provided. Call to RSVP. Learn more at the park’s Instagram page.

The must-read

Video still of a wolf entering L.A. County.

(California Department of Fish and Wildlife)

Just in time for Valentine’s Day, we have the makings of a howling good love story. On Saturday, a wolf entered Los Angeles County, marking the first time in at least 100 years that the elusive canines were documented in the area. Times staff writer Lila Seidman reported that the 3-year-old female wolf, BEY03F, is wearing a GPS collar she was outfitted with last May. BEY03F is seeking a partner “and the fact that she is still on the move is an indication that she has not found a mate and suitable habitat,” Axel Hunnicutt, gray wolf coordinator for the California Department of Fish and Wildlife, said. BEY03F was born in 2023 and has traveled more than 370 miles looking for a strapping lupine lover. Could this be the start of a local wolf pack? As of Tuesday, BEY03F was in southern Kern County.

Happy adventuring,

P.S.

Angeles National Forest announced this week that multiple trails in the Mt. Baldy area will be closed through Feb. 23 because of upcoming winter storms. Three hikers have died this winter while trying to traverse the Devil’s Backbone trail, a narrow trail that becomes perilous to cross once covered in ice and snow. The closed trails are: Mt. Baldy Trail; Mt. Baldy Bowl Trail; Devils Backbone Trail; Three T’s Trail (Timber Mountain, Telegraph Peak and Thunder Mountain); Icehouse Canyon Trail; Chapman Trail; and Ontario Peak Trail. The closure order comes with the potential of a hefty fine should hikers be caught violating the mandate.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild. And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here.

The word “desert” suggests barrenness for many, but anyone who lives in or near one knows how rich, wild and complex it can be. That’s equally true of the best books set there. The winter months are the best time to travel to the desert — but tucking into one of these titles is timeless, of course. Here is a brief selection of some of the best desert reads, old and new, that put the Southwest at their center. Whether you’re planning a road trip or reading from the comfort of home, get a glimpse of awe-inspiring vistas, rugged wildlife, tales of resilience and more.

“The Land of Little Rain”
By Mary Austin
Penguin Classics: 128 pp., $17
(1903; reprint 1997)

Arguably the first collection of lyrical essay writing about the California desert, Austin drew on her travels through the Owens Valley and environs, covering mining, the Shoshone tribe, weather and water. The book is thrilling in Austin’s close attention to details, from the grasses to rivers and hard-trod trails. Here, she writes, “it is possible to live with great zest, to have red blood and delicate joys.”

“Desert Solitaire: A Season in the Wilderness”
By Edward Abbey
Ballantine Books: 352 pp., $10
(1968; reprinted 1985)

Chronicling his stint in Utah’s Arches National Park in the late ‘50s, Abbey’s bestselling memoir revealed the beauty and fragility of the Southwest to a wider American audience, depicting the punishing weather and awe-inspiring vistas while thundering against the masses of lookie-loos driving into the desert only to despoil it. It’s often likened to “Walden,” but Abbey’s flinty, darkly humorous voice gave Western literature a tone distinct from East Coast gentility and folksy cowboy writing.

“Desert Oracle, Volume 1: Strange True Tales from the American Southwest”
By Ken Layne
Picador: 304 pp., $20
(2021)

Part handbook, part folklore collection, part tribute to the Southwest, Layne’s entertaining chronicle is built on brief chapters about the outlaws, writers, singers and other characters who define the region’s hardy reputation, from the path of Western swing musicians from Texas to L.A. to UFO conspiracists who convene in New Mexico, the Manson family’s trek to Death Valley, and beyond.

“The Deserts of California: A California Field Atlas”
By Obi Kaufmann
Heyday, 576 pp., $55
(2023)

Kaufmann’s lavishly illustrated field guide to the state’s arid regions is wide-ranging both geographically (from the Great Basin to the north and the Sonoran and Mojave to the south) and in terms of the species covered, from bats to bobcats and chias to palo verdes. It’s built for both the backpack and end table, with detailed descriptions alongside pleas for the land’s preservation.

“Mecca”
By Susan Straight
V: 384, $19
(2022)

A contemporary epic set in the Imperial Valley, Straight’s novel is a cross-section of desert denizens — a motorcycle officer, a Palm Springs spa employee, a family rocked by a police shooting — set against the demands of desert life. Encompassing COVID-19 and wildfires, it speaks to the present while exploring the region’s long history.

“Mojave Ghost”
By Forrest Gander
New Directions, 80 pp., $16
(2024)

“In this xeric topography / we fold ourselves into the circumstance of desert foothills / chewed away by leprosies, toothed winds, and / sudden rains,” writes the Pulitzer-winning poet Forrest Gander in this book-length poem about his hike across the 800 miles of the San Andreas Fault after the deaths of his wife, poet C.D. Wright, and mother. Though the writing is informed by the starkness of the landscape, he writes beautifully about the desert’s healing powers.

Athitakis is a writer in Phoenix and author of “The New Midwest.”

FAR away from the Venice of Europe, is the ‘Venice of the desert’ with highs of 25C in February.

The Pearl Doha in Qatar is an artificial island that boasts homes, tourist spots and sandy beaches.

Construction started way back in 2004, with the first residents being welcomed in 2009 and today, the island features a variety of different neighbourhoods, each with their own identity.

The island, which has just under 20 miles of coastline. features 10 districts including the Qanat Quartier, which is often dubbed as the ‘Venice of the desert’ thanks to its canals and pastel-coloured buildings.

Visitors can head on boat rides to discover the pretty canals and a number of arched bridges, like the replica of the Rialto Bridge.

Another tourist-favourite is the Piano Stairs, where you can jump on different stairs to make musical notes.

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Or for some proper fun and games head to Megapolis, where you will find virtual reality games, karaoke, bowling and racing simulators.

One recent visitor said: “Qanat Quartier is one of the most beautiful and unique places I’ve visited in Qatar.

“The colorful buildings, quiet canals, and charming bridges give you the feeling of walking through a mini Venice right in the heart of Doha.

“The area is peaceful and perfect for a relaxing walk, especially in the evening when the lights reflect on the water.”

equally popular is the Abraj Quartier, which is known as the gateway to The Pearl Island.

This neighbourhood is home to two towers offering panoramic sea views.

In the Porto Arabia neighbourhood, there is an open-air shopping area that has a French Riviera lifestyle feel.

The shopping area also overlooks Qatar‘s largest and award-winning marina, which is the ideal place to catch a glimpse of the many luxury yachts moored up.

Along the colourful waterfront, known as La Croisette (just like in Cannes), there is a two-mile promenade where more shops and restaurants can be found.

It is also in Porto Arabia where you will find the Four Seasons Resort and Residences.

The resort features a spa, private beach, two outdoor infinity pools, an indoor lap pool and a kid’s area.

There are plenty of beaches to chose from on The Pearl, with one popular option being Bahriya Beach.

One recent visitor said: “[It] has pristine sandy shores, perfect for lounging and swimming.

“A must visit when in Qatar.”

Another visitor added: “Soft sand that is raked every day to make sure it is well kept and flat.

“The water is also Lovely and no jet ski’s or boat allowed close by so very safe for swimmers and children.

“Great for paddle boarding or canoeing.”

On the beach is also Plt Cafe, where you can grab a flat white for 21 Qatari Riyal (£4.23).

The cafe also serves an array of sandwiches for around 30 Qatari Riyal (£6.04).

The cafe is noted by visitors as having a “wonderful atmosphere” perfect for “short, cosy visits” with views across the beach.

Right next to The Pearl, is Gewan Island, where visitors can explore the Crystal Walk, which is Qatar’s longest climatised outdoor walkway with a temperature of around 22C year-round.

As you walk along the 450-metre walkway, 45 crystal structures light-up.

When you are out and about looking for a bite to eat, you can expect to pay around 300 Qatari Riyal (£60.36) for a mid-range three-course meal for two.

You may have to stick to soft drinks though, as alcohol is only allowed for non-Muslims at licensed hotel bars and restaurants.

Hotel prices vary in Doha depending on the area of the city you stay but, for example, you can find a Premier Inn for £31 a night or stay at the five-star Andaz Doha by Hyatt for £66 a night.

Return flights from London to Doha in April cost from £468, alternatively you could fly from Birmingham from £531, Edinburgh from £608 or Manchester from £615.

If you want to head to the real Venice in Italy, one reporter who recently visited said that the Italian city is better in winter with wine bar tours and Miami-like hotels.

Plus, there is an unusual UK attraction people say is like being in Venice following £19million transformation.

By midwinter, Los Angeles is defined less by cold than by light. Cool, clear mornings give way to afternoons shaped by the low winter arc of the sun, painting the mountains in long shadows and the sky in improbable color.

And as that low light settles in, my whole body shifts in spirit. Somewhere deep in the limbic system, a synapse fires like a flare, tracing the old circuitry of migration and memory — that annual pull toward the wide-open deserts of the American Southwest.

I dream of lizards, dark skies, sand dunes and sunsets streaked in rose-mauve and smoky violet, the air heavy with the scent of wet creosote and campfire smoke.

A sunrise in the desert.

(Josh Jackson)

But mostly I long for the open road, those forgotten highways where pavement runs through the quaint towns, weathered landmarks and the millions of acres of public land in the desert. It is a nostalgia shared by the chroniclers of the past.

In 1971, Lane Magazine published “The Backroads of California,” a large-format book that delivered trip notes and sketches of 42 backroads by the late artist Earl Thollander.

In the epilogue he writes, “On the backroads of California I re-discovered the pleasure of driving. It had nothing to do with haste, and everything to do with taking time to perceive, with full consciousness, the earth’s ever-changing colors, designs, and patterns.”

Many of those original roads have faded away, swallowed by high-speed highways or erased by suburban expansion. But a handful still survive — routes that don’t carve a straight line but follow the meandering, undulating contours of the land. They are living archives of the West.

This essay marks the beginning of a series exploring those remaining roads. And we begin on Highway 127, a two-lane stretch that runs north from Baker, slowly ascending and descending toward the Nevada border. To the west lies the outskirts of Death Valley National Park; to the east, millions of acres of public land managed by the Bureau of Land Management — acreage collectively owned by all of us.

The Baker Country Store.

(Josh Jackson)

I arrived in Baker at sunrise in early December, camera in hand, notebook in pocket. The highway sign was nearly indecipherable beneath layers of stickers and graffiti.

I pulled the car north out of town, the 41-degree air still holding the night’s chill, and was greeted by shifting light and the open, empty scale of the desert. A full moon was dropping toward the Avawatz Mountains as the sun worked its way over the horizon in the east. The dry lake beds and bare mountains were cast in glow and shadow, the whole scene washed in cinnamon and brown sugar — earthy tones that felt almost edible.

Dumont Dunes, a playground for sand dune enthusiasts, is bordered by the slow-running Amargosa River.

(Josh Jackson)

By mile 34, the winter light had begun to settle over the landscape. A short spur leads to the Dumont Dunes, a popular off-highway vehicle area, but I came to witness the miraculous waterway that surfaces above ground on its 185-mile horseshoe journey from Nevada to Badwater Basin: the diminutive but mighty Amargosa River.

Here it pushes and carves through a canyon of mud walls that resemble the color of a wasp’s nest. Ravens circle overhead, croaking at my presence in defiance. The sight of water in the parched desert unsettles your perceptions. The urge to lie down for a soak, even in winter, is hard to resist. I bend down, scoop a handful of cold water and splash it against my face.

Amargosa Canyon is known for its dramatic rock formations.

(Josh Jackson)

The Amargosa Conservancy and local tribes have worked for decades to protect this river for its cultural and biodiversity values. As Executive Director Mason Voehl told me, it is “the lifeblood of these lands. The fates of every community of life in this extreme reach of the Mojave Desert are inextricably tied to the fate of the river.”

Kneeling at the riverbank, I understood exactly what he meant.

The Shoshone post office.

(Josh Jackson)

Built in the 1930s, the Crowbar Cafe & Saloon is like a time capsule.

(Josh Jackson)

Twenty-two miles farther north, Shoshone appears as a small village serving a couple dozen residents. A gas station, post office, general store and the Crowbar Café & Saloon anchor the town.

I met Molly Hansen, the community’s unofficial historian and naturalist, in her low-ceilinged office near the village center. We walked to the end of town, where spring-fed pools hold the fate of the only population of Shoshone pupfish in the world. Once thought extinct, they were rediscovered in a metal culvert in 1986. Today they dart and shimmer through the warm water — tiny, minnow-like survivors whose breeding males flash a bright desert blue.

Hansen gestured toward the springs. “We’re not just trying to save a species,” she said. “We’re trying to restore the entire ecosystem.”

This ecosystem persists in large part because of Susan Sorrells, who owns the town and surrounding thousand acres. As the lead advocate for the proposed Amargosa Basin National Monument, she is working to protect this entire corridor — the river, wetlands and deep cultural history stitched through these desert valleys. Shoshone might be a tiny dot on a map, but it holds something astonishing: the reminder that the desert doesn’t have to be a place where things go to die — it can be a place where they begin again.

Eagle Mountain.

(Josh Jackson)

Just past mile 72, Eagle Mountain begins to tease the horizon. At first only its serrated top breaches the low hills, as if surfacing for air. Eventually the entire massif stands exposed: a solitary block of limestone rising 1,800 feet above the Mojave floor. Its isolation is striking, a misplaced guardian island.

For the Southern Paiute and Western Shoshone, Eagle Mountain holds profound cultural significance — woven into their creation stories and Salt Songs, understood as a “passage to the sky.” Even with my limited knowledge, the mountain radiated a kind of gravity, as though the desert itself were remembering.

Amargosa Opera House.

(Josh Jackson)

By mile 83, the Amargosa Hotel and Opera House appear — one of the strangest and most enchanting landmarks in the Mojave. Its stucco walls and Spanish arches were once part of a Pacific Coast Borax company town, later abandoned when the boom ended. In 1967, Marta Becket, a professional ballet dancer from New York, serendipitously got a flat tire nearby and fell in love. Soon after, she moved to the outpost, bought the hotel and spent the rest of her life preserving the landmark and restoring the opera house, where she performed for audiences large and small until 2012. Today, the hotel and theater remain open — faded, fragile and utterly magnetic.

The final seven miles of Highway 127 passed quickly, the sun slipping toward the western horizon as I crossed into Nevada, eight hours after I began.

Turns out, Thollander was right: This experience had nothing to do with haste. These backroads teach a different rhythm — the wonders of going the long way, of stopping when something catches your eye, of noticing beauty that doesn’t shout for attention. In a world increasingly defined by speed and distraction, this slow way of seeing becomes more than nostalgia; it becomes an antidote to the frantic pace of our modern condition, a necessary pause to see not what has been forgotten, but what endures.

Road trip planner: California Highway 127

California 127 illustrated map.

(Illustrated map by Noah Smith)

The route: Baker to the Nevada state line

Distance: 91 miles (one way)

Drive time: 1.5 hours straight through; allow a full day for stops

Best time to go: Late October through April. Summer temperatures frequently exceed 110°F

Fuel and essentials:

• Baker (Mile 0): Last major services. Fill your tank and stock up on water/supplies here.
• Shoshone (Mile 57): Gas station, general store and post office available.
• EV charging: Fast chargers available in Baker; Level 2 chargers available at Shoshone Inn.

Food and drink:

• Los Dos Toritos Restaurant in Baker: Authentic Mexican.
• China Ranch Date Farm (Mile 48): A historic desert oasis along the Amargosa River; famous for date shakes.
• Crowbar Café & Saloon in Shoshone: The local watering hole. Hearty meals and cold beer.

Camping:

• Dumont Dunes: A wind-shaped sand dune complex designated for off-highway vehicle recreation. Primitive camping (permit required, purchase on-site or online).
• Shoshone RV Park: Full hookups, tent sites and access to the warm spring pool.

Lodging:

Hike and explore:

• Amargosa River Crossing (Mile 34): Pull out safely to see the rare sight of water flowing in the Mojave.
• China Ranch Trails (Mile 48): Creek Trail is an easy, short walk through riparian willow groves; Slot Canyon is a moderate 2-mile hike into spectacular mud-hill geology.
• Shoshone Wetlands (Mile 57): Short walking paths to view the Shoshone pupfish habitat.
• Amargosa Opera House (Mile 83): Tours of Marta Becket’s painted theater typically run daily (check schedule online); walk the grounds to see the historic borax town ruins.

Safety Notes:

• Water: Carry at least one gallon per person per day.
• Connectivity: Cell service is spotty to nonexistent between Baker and Shoshone. Download offline maps before leaving I-15.
• Wildlife: Watch for wild burros and coyotes on the road, especially at dawn and dusk.

TRAIN travel is on the up and what could be more glamorous than a train that travels through the desert with stops to stargaze?

A new luxury train experience is being launched in Saudi Arabia called Dream of the Desert.

Across different journeys, the train will travel through breathtaking Saudi landscapes.

Due to launch in late 2026, the rail experience will carry 66 passengers on each journey and travel across a 807 mile network.

The train will feature 14 carriages with 33 suites, two restaurant cars and a traditional Arabic-inspired lounge.

In the two restaurant cars, there will be a rotating menu that celebrates both local and international chefs.

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One of the restaurants will focus on Saudi flavours and regional ingredients and the other restaurant will use Italian techniques.

Meals are all included as part of the journey, as is the onboard programme and off-train experiences.

Inside, the Italian-built cabins will boast a design that reflects Saudi traditions, such as carved wood, woven textiles and a desert-inspired colour scheme.

According to Globetrender, the interior designer, Aline Asmar d’Amman, said: “The desert’s palette of earthy tones, and sandy browns are balanced with a zest of lavender, oasis green and burnt oranges, infusing each space with a sense of culture and serenity.

“From the reception lounge to the restaurant, the interiors become a continuous meditation on presence and place in motion.”

So far, five different journeys have been announced, which will run between October and May.

Though, there will be two seasonal routes.

The journeys include a two-day return between Riyadh and Jubbah and a longer route that travels to Al Jouf and AlUla.

Each journey is expected to have its own unique experiences – for example, on the Ramadan Nights itinerary passengers will experience a stargazing stop in Qassim.

Then on the Summer Mirage route, passengers will stay entirely on board during the hotter months.

Other experiences include desert camps, guided heritage tours and hosted outdoor meals.

On some routes, accommodation off of the train is included as well.

Prices don’t come cheap though, start at SAR 30,000 (about £6,000) per cabin per night.

The train is being developed by Italy-based Arsenale Group and follows the launch of La Dolce Vita Orient Express in Italy.

The chief executive of the group, Paolo Barletta, also commented that the Dreams of Desert train marks the company’s first overseas luxury train.

In other rail news, here’s the UK train journey that feels like the Hogwarts Express with stunning views along the way.

Plus, one of the UK’s most beautiful train journeys runs right across the beach and it costs less than £20.