The Peak District village was systematically demolished and submerged in the 1940s to provide water for the industrial industries during the second world war – but it’s ruins remain
Passers-by have no idea what lies beneath (Image: Steve_Bramall via Getty Images)
It lies beneath a beloved hiking destination in Derbyshire, but this was once a thriving community before it was deliberately flooded and lost forever.
During the 1940s, the picturesque village of Derwent was methodically demolished and submerged beneath what is today known as Ladybower Reservoir.
The expansive, stunning expanse of water frequently serves as a stopping point for visitors admiring the scenery whilst exploring the Peak District, yet few realise what rests beneath its surface.
The reason for its submersion was to supply water to the booming industrial centres throughout the East Midlands during World War Two.
Locals were relocated, and by 1945 the valley had been flooded, with remnants of the former settlement now resting underwater.
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Derbyshire is known for its dramatic Peak District landscapes, historic market towns and stately country houses. Sykes Cottages has hundreds of places to stay, with prices from £32 per night.
Derwent before it drowned
Prior to the outbreak of war across Britain, Derwent had seemed like a permanent fixture in the moorlands, characterised by its century-old structures and tight-knit community.
Two initial dams were constructed after the water board selected a remote section of the valley. This decision impacted numerous residents. Those who owned farms or smallholdings were relocated to safer areas including Derwent and the neighbouring village of Ashopton.
What they couldn’t have anticipated was that this stretch of the valley, and their cherished village which they’d made their home, would shortly vanish entirely.
The village church conducted its final service for parishioners on March 17, 1943, before being submerged beneath the reservoir. Remnants of the church can be found scattered throughout Derby, with the bell now rehung at St Philip’s Church in Chaddesden.
Whilst nearly the entire area was deliberately flooded, a small number of homes survive above the waterline. Reports indicate that five properties from the original village endure, including several farms and the former village hall.
Mabel, a former Bamford resident who was 92 at the time of her interview, spoke to BBC Travel about growing up nearby and her memories of Derwent.
She revealed: “I may be the last person who remembers Ashopton and Derwent,” explaining that her school was located in Derwent, which she attended whilst the reservoir was being built.
The village emerged
During periods of extreme heat or reduced water levels, the reservoir has receded, and hauntingly, remnants of the village have surfaced. This phenomenon has been documented on several occasions, with the first instance occurring in 1976, leaving locals astounded.
The most recent, and consequently most significant, reappearance of the village occurred in 2018, when reservoir levels dropped dramatically and visitors flocked from across the region to witness the extraordinary spectacle.
An enormous crowd assembled, and the attention drawn to the old structures – which are largely piles of rubble and bricks – resulted in various complications.
On 3 November that year, a man found himself in a sticky situation, requiring mountain rescue assistance after becoming severely stuck in the dense mud surrounding the ruins of Derwent.
In a similar vein, due to the influx of visitors, the remnants were defaced with graffiti, prompting park rangers to discourage further visits as additional items were also taken from the site.
The Peak District National Park is one of the most beautiful areas Britain has to offer, and this town, paired with this tour, gives you the ultimate experience of it
‘I had the ultimate Peak District experience – with all the views and none of the walking’
The Peak District National Park in Derbyshire is a sight to behold, but with over 300,000 acres worth of land and some pretty sheer climbs, it can be overwhelming to know where to start. If caught by such doubt, there’s only one real answer.
One of the best ways to see the heights of the peaks and immerse yourself in their splendour is to ditch the hiking boots altogether. And the best place to begin, I’d argue, is at the very top, in Buxton – England’s highest market town.
When staying at The Buxton Crescent Hotel, the real heart of the town and a hub for a truly tranquil escape to Derbyshire, you can be assured that there’s a fantastic range of trails on your doorstep. There are a number of routes to take, so I hopped on a bike courtesy of PeakePedals and cycled out.
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Derbyshire is known for its dramatic Peak District landscapes, historic market towns and stately country houses. Sykes Cottages has hundreds of places to stay, with prices from £32 per night.
Bike Tours
Specifically designed for guests staying at the hotel and catering for those travelling in at Buxton Station is White Peak Adventure. This is a route created by the cycling experts at PeakePedals to help visitors experience the villages, valleys and hills of the White Peak, just south of Buxton.
Many guests opt to hire their e-bikes and a Garmin GPX navigation device with their chosen route pre-programmed. This means they can have their own day out, with clear directions, and none of the fuss.
However, we were lucky to have a tour guide in Dan, a team member and local expert, who took us through the winding roads and hills, pointing out the areas of interest along the way.
Touring on a bike means you can see a hell of a lot more of the Peaks than you naturally would on foot. We ended up going over 20 miles around the national park, winding through villages and along pretty country roads. This is perfect for someone who only has a day or a short weekend to explore and is keen to make the most out of that time – with all the views and none of the blisters.
Passing through the stunning ‘Dragon’s Back’ limestone reef was a true highlight of the ride for me, and having previously climbed it, I can assure you it was far less difficult and even more beautiful from below. The bike certainly offered a fresh perspective on the Peaks.
We stopped and gawped periodically, while our guide recommended pubs, cafés or the best villages we might want to spend a moment in. But Dan was happy to take our lead, as he would remind us: “It’s your day.” We opted for two stops, one in Longnor and the other in Hartington – two quintessentially English villages.
As a big coffee lover, this was ideal, as I can never get enough of stumbling upon a cosy coffee spot and sampling some homemade bakes. Of course, here in Buxton, the local delicacy is the Bakewell Tart, which is a must-try when in the Derbyshire area.
As charming a day as it was, it being Britain and March, cold and thick fog descended, obscuring the beauty of the hills a little.
Of course, it’s hard to come to the Peaks and not take on somewhat of a hike, and for a short hike with ease near Buxton, Lud’s Church is the perfect choice. Sitting less than a 20-minute drive outside of the town, it’s a popular route, proven by the groups of walkers we saw heading that way.
The terrain is easy, and the route isn’t steep. The hidden paradise that you reach is certainly a treat.
Beginning at The Roaches Gradbach Car Park, we were able to park up and begin the walk, following the signposts along the way. It took us past the scout camp, down a rocky path alongside farmers’ fields, before reaching a tranquil little bridge.
As you walk, you wind through forests and find yourself at the mysterious gorge, illuminated by green moss. When I stepped down into the chasm, I felt as though I’d stumbled across a hidden gem, like something out of Jurassic Park or Jumanji, with tropical-looking plants growing in between rocks, covered in layers of the brightest green moss.
Once you reach the other side of it, climbing out of the gorge, it’s mostly flat, and we had a carefree walk through the trees, slowly making our way back down in a circular route, back to the car. All in all, the walk typically takes two hours, but we were able to complete it in an hour and a half, driven on as we were by a desire to eat lunch.
Book it
Emily stayed at Champneys Buxton Crescent Hotel & Wellness Spa start from £185 including bed and breakfast. For general hotel bookings, please visit: buxtoncrescent.com and contact Email: info@buxtoncrescent.com Tel: +44 1298 808 999
Surrounded by countryside and quaint shops, spending the night in this historic crescent building felt like living out a life in a period drama manor
I stayed in the ultimate spa hotel with a rooftop pool and underground relaxation cave’
Pulling up to the hotel felt like I was stepping into the world of Bridgerton. It was impossible not to be immediately blown away by the sheer size of its Georgian masterpiece, which is the exact greeting I’d expect from a five-star hotel.
The Buxton Crescent Hotel sits at the very heart of the Derbyshire town. Really, it is the centrepiece of the place, and so it would be hard to imagine staying anywhere else when visiting for a weekend.
Buxton, as a spa town, rivals Bath and is famous for its natural and ancient spring waters that have been filtered through the Peak District’s limestone for 5,000 years. It’s these clean, drinkable, and consistently warm waters that provide mineral-rich and calming waters to the spa within the hotel.
These small but significant details are what make the Buxton Crescent hotel feel so swanky. To know I was staying within the walls of such a historic building certainly helped me live out my period drama dreams.
Room
After a very warm welcome and helpful valet service from the team, we were directed to our humble abode for the night, which was one of the Crescent Rooms with rear-facing views. The décor had a timeless feel to it that felt aged, but with class, generally the kind I’d expect for a hotel of this sort – but it was nothing mind-blowing.
Best Derbyshire holiday cottage deals
This article contains affiliate links, we will receive a commission on any sales we generate from it. Learn more
Derbyshire is known for its dramatic Peak District landscapes, historic market towns and stately country houses. Sykes Cottages has hundreds of places to stay, with prices from £32 per night.
It was clean, the bed was incredibly comfortable, and it had everything we needed for a simple night’s stay. Normally, the package we enjoyed – which included a night’s stay, spa access, dinner, and breakfast – would cost around £510 for this time of year.
A particularly noteworthy feature of the room was the shower, which, to be honest, was potentially the best I’ve ever had, with a huge overhead waterfall and amazing water pressure. I guess you’d expect nothing less from a town quite literally famous for its water and cleansing methods, and it certainly beats the half-hearted drip of a flimsy budget hotel bathroom.
Spa facilities
Buxton Crescent is part of the Champneys Spa empire, but it definitely didn’t feel like a chain. Instead, it offered an authentic spa experience, and one of luxury at that.
I was impressed by just how big the place was and kept stumbling upon different rooms, areas, underground, and on the roof – like the rest of the hotel, it is a bit of a maze.
There are a number of unique features that make this spa a standout in my eyes, the first blindingly obvious one – the epic rooftop pool. It’s rare to find an outdoor pool anywhere in Derbyshire, let alone one on the roof of an 18th-century building, and yet it certainly adds a wow factor to the place.
Even amid the thick fog and cold of June, its thermal waters and bubbling pools create a cool environment for a relaxing swim. It’s a shame the views aren’t much to write home about, considering Buxton is surrounded by beauty.
Adding to this sense of magic is the colour-illuminated relaxation pool in a dimly lit room. The thermal pool sits peacefully beneath an impressive stained-glass canopy that reflects onto the water and the original 1920s tiles lining the pool. I think it’s these standout elements combined that lend the hotel its five-star status.
I was lucky enough to experience one of the unique water-based treatments, which the hotel claims is not available anywhere else in the UK. Opting for the Signature Wave Balance on the Water Couch, I was going into this rather blindly.
The masseuse was friendly and made me feel incredibly comfortable as she used the waterbed’s rhythms to create movement beneath me and gently helped relax my muscles. Personally, I don’t think this treatment was for me, and I would have enjoyed a more intense massage over a relaxation one, not to mention the atmosphere outside of the room was a slight mood killer.
With it being a Saturday, a bit of busyness at the spa is expected. However, outside of the room, I could hear doors shutting, floorboards creaking, and people chatting, and it was hard to stay in my ‘waterbed cocoon’ with all that going on – there’s only so much tranquil music can drown out.
Restaurant
I am everyone’s least favourite type of person to dine with (vegetarian), so if a menu isn’t stacked with options, which they rarely are, I can be a bit of an awkward one. However, the veggie options at the hotel were drool-worthy and felt just as fancy as any other meat-based dish. Not to mention, the setting and service were arguably the most five-star aspects of this place.
As we entered the restaurant for our reservation, we immediately felt underdressed, as guests were quite literally suited and booted for their evening meal. The dimly lit restaurant, wine stands, and well-dressed waiters made the experience feel very fancy, adding to my sense of a regal stay.
I couldn’t help but find the way the space transformed in the morning quite humorous. While the furniture remains the same, the lights are up, people are helping themselves to food, and all of the same guests’ blazers are swapped for hoodies.
In my opinion, there’s only so fancy a breakfast can get in a hotel, when really, everyone just wants a full English. I was pleased to see both vegetarian and vegan options of this, but more importantly, alongside a menu of dishes, you could tuck into smoothies, fruits, yoghurts, pastries, the lot.
Whilst it did sort of feel like the shine had worn off by morning with coffee-stained menus and mugs, as far as hotel breakfasts go, I thought it was still up there with the best.
In the area
There’s no questioning how perfectly placed the Buxton Crescent Hotel is in respect of all that the town has to offer; it is in the centre of it all. So much so that I thought it felt as though the town was built around this very building.
Attached to the building is the Cavendish Arcade, which offers a range of independent shops perfect to mooch around. In fact, this building is actually where the town’s original hot baths were first housed.
Just a stone’s throw away from the hotel entrance is the high street, bursting with cafes, restaurants and shops, as well as other little roads leading you to more hidden independent spots. I’d certainly suggest a wander, as some of the best-looking foodie spots are slightly more tucked away from the Greggs and Café Nero of it all – shock.
For deeper exploration, Buxton acts as the ideal hub for hikers and cyclists keen to explore the Peak District National Park. Lud’s Church is one of the closest and most popular routes, full of dramatic views and a sense of mystery with its moss-covered gorges.
Meanwhile, a more challenging hike would take you to Dragon’s Back, a ridge walk near Buxton that showcases the jagged, rugged limestone cliffs of the peaks. Previously, I parked up in the village of Hollinsclough and walked from there, but there are other alternative starting points.
The Buxton Crescent Hotel is the ultimate romantic spa getaway in the Peak District, and that was evident by the number of couples surrounding us at dinner, in the spa, and on our hike. Clearly, we missed the memo all this time that Buxton is, in fact, the place to be for an idyllic romantic getaway.
Book it
Rooms at Champneys Buxton Crescent Hotel & Wellness Spa start from £185 including bed and breakfast. For general hotel bookings, please visit: buxtoncrescent.com and contact Email: info@buxtoncrescent.com Tel: +44 1298 808 999
