Cultural

South L.A. just became a Black cultural district. Where should the monument go?

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For more than a century, South Los Angeles has been an anchor for Black art, activism and commerce — from the 1920s when Central Avenue was the epicenter of the West Coast jazz scene to recent years as artists and entrepreneurs reinvigorate the area with new developments such as Destination Crenshaw.

Now, the region’s legacy is receiving formal recognition as a Black cultural district, a landmark move that aims to preserve South L.A.’s rich history and stimulate economic growth. State Sen. Lola Smallwood-Cuevas (D-Los Angeles), who led the effort, helped secure $5.5 million in state funding to support the project, and last December the state agency California Arts Council voted unanimously to approve the designation. The district, formally known as the Historic South Los Angeles Black Cultural District, is now one of 24 state-designated cultural districts, which also includes the newly added Black Arts Movement and Business District in Oakland.

Prior to this vote, there were no state designations that recognized the Black community — a realization that made Smallwood-Cuevas jump into action.

“It was very frustrating for me to learn that Black culture was not included,” said Smallwood-Cuevas, who represents South L.A. Other cultural districts include L.A.’s Little Tokyo and San Diego’s Barrio Logan Cultural District, which is rooted in Chicano history. Given all of the economic and cultural contributions that South L.A. has made over the years through events like the Leimert Park and Central Avenue jazz festivals and beloved businesses like Dulan’s on Crenshaw and the Lula Washington Dance Theatre, Smallwood-Cuevas believed the community deserved to be recognized. She worked on this project alongside LA Commons, a non-profit devoted to community-arts programs.

Beyond mere recognition, Smallwood-Cuevas said the designation serves as “an anti-displacement strategy,” especially as the demographics of South L.A. continue to change.

“Black people have experienced quite a level of erasure in South L.A.,” added Karen Mack, founder and executive director of LA Commons. “A lot of people can’t afford to live in areas that were once populated by us, so to really affirm our history, to affirm that we matter in the story of Los Angeles, I think is important.”

The Historic South L.A. Cultural District spans roughly 25 square miles, situated between Adams Boulevard to the north, Manchester Boulevard to the south, Central Avenue to the east and La Brea Avenue to the west.

Now that the designation has been approved, Smallwood-Cuevas and LA Commons have turned their attention to the monument — the physical landmark that will serve as the district’s entrance or focal point — trying to determine whether it should be a gateway, bridge, sculpture or something else. And then there’s the bigger question: Where should it be placed? After meeting with organizations like the Black Planners of Los Angeles and community leaders, they’ve narrowed their search down to eight potential locations including Exposition Park, Central Avenue and Leimert Park, which received the most votes in a recent public poll that closed earlier this month.

As organizers work to finalize the location for the cultural district’s monument by this summer, we’ve broken down the potential sites and have highlighted their historical relevance. (Please note: Although some of the sites are described as specific intersections, such as Jefferson and Crenshaw boulevards, organizers think of them more as general areas.)

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‘It’s dedicated exclusively to female artists, from Frida Kahlo to Tracey Emin’: readers’ favourite unsung museums in Europe | Cultural trips

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We visited the Female Artists of the Mougins Museum, in Mougins, a small village on a hill near Cannes. Full of exclusively female artists – from Berthe Morisot in the 19th century and Frida Kahlo in the early 20th to contemporary figures such as Tracey Emin – it houses an incredible collection of often overlooked art and artists. We visited on a rainy October day and it was remarkably quiet and calm. I particularly enjoyed the abstract works – well worth a trip up the hill.
James

Secret church in Amsterdam’s red light district

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder church, Amsterdam. Photograph: Frans Lemmens/Alamy

Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder is a bit of a mouthful, but it is the best museum I have ever visited. Our Lord in the Attic is a hidden gem in the centre of Amsterdam and well worth a visit. “Our Lord” is a clandestine church originating after the Reformation when Catholics were no longer allowed to hold public holy masses. It enabled Catholics to worship, but only in private; thus creating an incredibly intimate and secretive experience. The canal house feels like a Tardis as you move from what seems like a labyrinth of rooms, all leading to what appears to be a doll’s house church. A sliver of heaven in the middle of the red light district!
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Berlin’s pioneering socialist artist

Käthe Kollwitz museum. Photograph: Imago/Alamy

I came across the Käthe-Kollwitz Museum only because I was staying nearby, just off Berlin’s glamorous Ku’damm avenue. This small, intimate building houses probably the best collection of Kollwitz’s prints, drawings, posters, sculptures and woodcuts, inspired by and illustrating her lifelong socialist beliefs with real power and poignancy. Her life and work were profoundly shaped by inseparable personal and political tragedies.
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Turin’s mountain museum

Ski rack with several kinds of skis from 1896 to 2004 at Museo Nazionale della Montagna. Photograph: Mauro Toccaceli/Alamy

We visited the Museo Nazionale della Montagna (National Museum of Mountains) in Turin last summer. Having spent the previous four weeks hiking in the Italian Alps, it was the perfect end to our trip. The staff are knowledgable and there are some excellent exhibits exploring the history of our relationship with mountains along with displays of mountaineering gear and derring-do over the past 150 years. There’s also a rooftop terrace with a great view of the city and mountains beyond. A fantastic way to spend a few hours and a must for any lover of mountains.
Samantha McGrady

Captivating artefacts from the far east, Porto

Sculptures in the Museo Nacional Soares dos Rei. Photograph: Hemis/Alamy

Set in a late 18th-century palace belonging to the Porto bourgeoisie, the Museo Nacional Soares dos Reis, founded in 1833, is considered to be Portugal’s oldest art museum. It features an absorbing collection of Portuguese painting dating from the 16th to 20th centuries, but particularly captivating are the rooms displaying Japanese and Chinese artefacts, which arrived in Portugal off trading ships from the far east. Don’t miss the tranquil garden at the back of the museum.
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Homage to Copernicus in Kraków

The Collegium Maius at the Jagiellonian dates back to the 14th century. Photograph: John Warburton-Lee/Alamy

The Jagiellonian University Museum has a wonderful collection for those interested in history and science. The university was founded in 1364 and a young Copernicus (who worked out that the sun was at the centre of the known universe rather than the Earth) studied there in the 1490s. Many objects related to its most famous student and his heliocentric theory are showcased, alongside quirky objects related to the history of the university, and the history of Poland. The guides are very knowledgable, the visit is affordable, and it’s conveniently located in Kraków’s beautiful historical city centre.
Aline T Marinho

Quiet contemplation and wonder in Barcelona

Caixa Forum, Barcelona. Photograph: Kaprik/Alamy

In a stunningly restored mattress factory (La Casaramona) designed by Catalan modernist architect Josep Puig i Cadafach, you can find the CaixaForum, just up the road from the Plaça d’Espanya in Barcelona. There are some buildings that eclipse the art that’s inside it, but the Caixa specialises in having a revolving display of exhibitions from photography to sculpture to immersive art, in an atmosphere of quiet contemplation and wonder. It is near the Miró Foundation and so many visitors pass it by without realising how great it is. Within its curvy walls there is a cafe for a welcome cold drink.
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An airship and Trump toddlers in Prague

A steel and wood airship ‘floats’ over the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art. Photograph: Arazu/Alamy

I would really recommend DOX Centre for Contemporary Art in Prague. It’s a little way out of the touristy city centre but is an excellent art gallery within a stunning feat of architecture – a steel and wood airship (built in 2016) seemingly floats out of a postwar factory building. In 2018 I saw a brilliant exhibit, which was a white room filled with giant toddlers with Trump faces.
Katherine L

Paris’s ‘most enchanting’ museum

A beautiful spiral staircase links floors at the ornate Musée National Gustave Moreau. Photograph: Jon Lovette/Alamy

For me, the most enchanting museum in Paris is the Musée National Gustave Moreau, located in the former home of the 19th-century symbolist artist. Stendhal syndrome is surely a real risk in this glorious space, as one staggers among the dizzying, gigantic paintings painted in elaborate, decorative detail. Classical mythology and intimate biblical scenes are presented in vast gilt frames alongside looser drawings and watercolours housed in cabinets with pivoting shutters for ease of browsing. A spiral staircase between studio floors adds to the magic and the fascinating private apartments offer insight into a brilliant mind. Truly inspiring.
Petra Painter

Winning tip: Bronze gods in Piraeus

Bronze statue of Artemis in the Archaeological Museum, Piraeus. Photograph: World History Archive/Alamy

The Archaeological Museum of Piraeus contains a wonderful collection of artefacts spanning 2,000 years of Greek history and is generally less hectic than bigger museums in Athens. In pride of place are the Piraeus bronzes, a truly staggering collection of statues (including the Piraeus Apollo and bronze statues of Athena and Artemis) that left such an impression on me that I now have tattoos of two of them. It’s only 20 minutes from the centre of Athens by train, and is a wonderful place to explore while you wait for your ferry connection to the islands.
Ben Holmes

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