Crete

THREE steps. That was all it took to go from my villa’s back door to the pool.

Around me, the gentle hum of cicadas and the fragrant breeze of Mediterranean flora filled the air.

It was everything I had imagined rural Greece to be, and more.

While I was on the popular island of Crete, Ella Resorts’ Rocrita sits on the quieter, eastern side where many tourists don’t venture.

For miles around, the only views are of the shimmering Aegean and a blanket of green olive groves across the rolling hills.

The all-inclusive 5* resort only opened a few months ago, so everything still had that new feel and fresh scent.

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Rooms range from deluxe to two-bedroom suites, many with swim-up pool access.

My earthy-toned villa had a spacious bedroom with customisable lighting, and a plush lounge with stylish sofas, a Nespresso machine, TV and writing desk.

The lounge also had a mini-fridge, restocked daily with complimentary soft drinks.

The bathroom had all the essentials plus a few luxuries — think high-end exfoliating loofahs and boujee body lotion.

When you aren’t in your swim-up pool, there are other pools across the resort lined with loungers looking out to the ocean.

Sprawled in a cabana by one of the main pools with a spritz, I tucked into a freshly made pistachio tiramisu from the street food hub right next to the pool — just one of many mouthwatering desserts to tempt you.

Guests can also enjoy direct beach access to a quiet stretch of coast, dotted with the comfiest beanbag loungers I’ve had the pleasure of laying on.

Families are well-served, with a Ninja Warrior-style obstacle course suspended over a pool, a creche and a kids’ club.

Couples can head to Roée Spa for a treatment, plus steam rooms and a sauna.

And when it came to dining, I was spoilt for choice with six à la carte and buffet restaurants.

These featured a wide mix of cuisines curated by Michelin-star chefs including traditional Greek dishes as well as Italian and Mexican.

At Smigo, there were cold and warm plates, freshly made bread and locally caught seafood.

It was a feast for the eyes as well as the stomach, with colourful, fragrant ingredients in every dish.

The star of the show, though, was definitely breakfast — in fact, it was the biggest I’ve ever seen.

Spread across four buffet stations, there were all the breakfast items I could think (or dream) of, including semolina pudding, fresh pastries, antipasti, fully cooked breakfast items, pancakes, yoghurt, omelettes, cakes, fresh fruit . . .  the list goes on.

Without exaggerating, I ate so much each morning I didn’t need to have lunch.

For a tipple, there were four bars, including one stocking 300 local and international wines.

There’s enough to do that you needn’t leave the resort, but staff can arrange excursions if you want to explore.

Try the historic island of Spinalonga, an hour’s drive away.

Once a Venetian fortress, the island later became a leper colony — which was one of the last in Europe, before being abandoned and left as it is, with the same sights on the island there today.

A ferry runs every half hour and costs €12 (£10.44) return.

For something slower-paced, head up into the mountains to the 15th-century Toplou Monastery, where you can taste a flight of eight organic wines including white, rose and red.

To accompany the wines you’ll get a plate of cheeses, olives, figs, breadsticks and oil, and a host talking you through how the wine is made and the history of the monastery.

Whether I’d spent the day uncovering the history of a forgotten island or tasting wine in the hills, the best part was always returning to my villa in this untouched corner of Greece, sliding into my swim-up pool with a glass of local wine in hand and floating to the familiar soundtrack of the cicadas.

THOUSANDS of locals and British holidaymakers have been evacuated from Crete after deadly wildfires swept through the popular Greek hotspot.

At least three emergency responders have lost their lives during the crisis across Greece, including two firefighters who became trapped in their vehicle near the mountain village of Krya Vrysi in Crete.

Flames fanned by gale-force winds have spread across a 15-kilometre front on the island at the peak of the summer holiday season.

Around 8,000 people were ordered to move to safety as flames closed in on southern resort villages, destroying homes, farms, and livestock in their path.

The crisis comes as severe heatwaves spark wildfires across Southern Europe and parts of the UK, with firefighters battling blazes from Spain and Turkey to Suffolk.

Where are the wildfires in Crete?

The primary fire zone in Crete is located along the island’s southern coast in the Rethymno region, specifically within the Agios Vasileios municipality.

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Villages and coastal areas hit by emergency evacuation alerts include:

• Krya Vrysi, Melambes, and Sachtouria
• Agios Pavlos, Triopetra, and Agia Paraskevi
• Orne and Ligres

More than 200 firefighters, supported by 53 fire engines, have been tackling the south-coast blazes.

Nearby resort areas such as Agia Galini were evacuated as a precaution before conditions stabilised enough for some tourists to return.

Is it safe to travel to Crete?

It remains safe to travel to the vast majority of Crete.

The island’s main transport hubs – including Heraklion Airport and Chania Airport – remain open and operating normally, outside the fire zone.

Popular northern holiday destinations, including Rethymno’s historic Old Town, Chania, Heraklion, Elounda, and Agios Nikolaos, currently remain unaffected and open for business.

If you are due to travel, tour operators advise checking the exact location of your accommodation.

Anyone staying near the active southern fire zone should contact their hotel or package provider before travelling, follow official 112 emergency text alerts, and ensure travel insurance covers natural disaster disruptions.

Holidaymakers on the island are urged to download emergency alert apps, keep mobile devices charged, and strictly observe local fire bans.

How did the fires start?

Specialist arson investigation teams from the Greek Fire Service have launched formal inquiries into the exact ignition points of the Rethymno fires.

While investigations are ongoing, extreme heat and weather conditions created the perfect storm for rapid ignition.

A prolonged summer heatwave pushed temperatures above 40C, thoroughly drying out low vegetation, pine forests, and olive groves across the island.

Strong gusting winds reaching up to 102 km/h (7 on the Beaufort scale) whipped minor ignitions into runaway blazes within minutes.

Authorities across southern Europe have repeatedly warned that even minor human carelessness – like discarded glass, outdoor barbecues, or unextinguished cigarettes – can instantly trigger a major blaze in these dry conditions.

What is the forecast for Crete?

The weather outlook for Crete remains challenging, with forecasters predicting high temperatures to persist near or above 40C across the Aegean region.

But the primary hurdle for emergency crews has been unpredictable wind.

Violent, changing gusts have forced water-dropping planes and heavy helicopters to temporarily ground operations due to turbulence.

Fire crews are reliant on wind speeds dropping in the coming days.

Lower winds wills allow aerial firefighting squadrons to safely scoop seawater and drop targeted payloads on hot spots in Crete’s steep mountain terrain.

While ground teams continue to build containment lines, civil protection authorities maintain a high wildfire alert across Crete and wider Greece.

CRETE is the latest destination to be struck by wildfires and with it being a holiday hotspot for Brits, lots are asking – is it still safe to travel to?

Here’s everything you need to know right now about travelling to the Greek island.

Where are the wildfires in Crete?

The majority of the wildfires in Crete are on the south of the island.

On Wednesday, a large fire broke out in the south of the Rethymno regional unit where around 8,000 people have been evacuated.

A large fire is being tackled near the villages of Krya Vrysi, Orne and the coastal resort of Agia Galini.

Hotels in Rethymno have been placed on high alert.

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It’s believed the fire that has been exacerbated by 125km per hour winds has destroyed a number of homes in the area.

According to the BBC, it’s one of the biggest active fires on the island, with its front exceeding 9.3miles.

Hundreds of residents and tourists were evacuated from Krya Vrysi on Wednesday.

Hundreds of firefighters have been deployed to battle the blaze, and two sadly died on Wednesday during high winds in Crete.

Forecasters warn fire-prone conditions will spread towards the centre of Europe this week, with Greece among one of the places most affected.

Is it safe to travel to Crete right now?

The travel advice for Greece remains unchanged.

But there are warnings on being prepared for wildfires which are “high risk” between April and October.

The advice from GOV.UK reads:

“Ensure that your mobile phone is registered to receive emergency alerts to be warned of wildfires near your location.

“Wildfires are highly dangerous and unpredictable. The situation can change quickly.

“To avoid starting wildfires:

• leave no litter, especially not glass which is known to start fires
• make sure cigarettes are properly extinguished
• do not light barbecues

“Causing a wildfire or a forest fire is a criminal offence in Greece – even if unintentional. If you see a fire, call the emergency services on 112.

“Be cautious if you are in or near an area affected by wildfires:

• follow @112Greece for official updates
• follow the guidance of the emergency services
• call the Greek emergency services on 112 if you are in immediate danger
• contact your airline or travel operator who can assist you with return travel to the UK”

Are flights still going to Crete?

Flights to Crete remain unaffected.

If you are due to fly in and have concerns, it may be worth contacting your airline to check if they are operating normally.

What if I have a holiday to Crete booked?

As the Foreign Office has not warned against travel to Greece, there are no special circumstances in place for holidaymakers to cancel their trip and receive a full refund.

Depending on what travel insurance you have, your policy might include natural disaster cover.

If so, your insurance policy should cover you for when you are unable to reach your holiday destination due to natural disasters, like wildfires.

So it is worth checking your travel insurance policy.

Can I cancel my trip?

If you do choose to cancel your trip, it is best to contact your airline or holiday provider.

There is no obligation for companies to refund bookings unless government advice changes.

As someone with Cypriot roots and distant Greek heritage, I’m often asked the question: which is the best island? People lean in, expecting a secret – some tiny, untouched haven, known only to locals. My answer is always the same: Crete. With its fiercely proud identity, warm communities and exceptional food, it feels both deeply Greek and entirely itself.

For our anniversary weekend, my husband and I head to Lassithi, in the island’s far eastern corner. As a chef and food writer, I’m drawn to the area’s reputation for exceptional produce: Sitia extra virgin olive oil, creamy xigalo cheese, mountain honey and an abundance of excellent tavernas.

After an early start, we check into our hotel and freshen up. The Sand Suites is a new, adults-only retreat with just seven suites and a pathway leading directly to the wide, sandy Almyros beach and its clear shallow waters. Our suite is a serene hideaway with a private pool overlooking dramatic mountains.

For our first evening, we head to Karnagio in the pretty harbour town of Agios Nikolaos, a 10-minute drive up the coast (or a 45-minute walk). We’re told it offers the perfect introduction to the flavours of Lassithi. Despite a warning from Dimitri, the knowledgable manager at the Sand Suites, we order far too much food. We begin with Cretan classics: dakos (barley rusks softened with grated tomato, olive oil and mizithra cheese), alongside mizithropitakia (delicate mizithra-filled pies). More plates arrive. Spring onion-topped fava, tender horta (wild greens dressed generously with lemon), followed by melt-in-the-mouth sauteed lamb with locally made pasta and torched anthotyro cheese. Weeks later, and I am still thinking about that lamb.

Eventually, we admit defeat. Unfazed by the unfinished dishes, the waiters arrive with a tray of complimentary sweets. Then comes a small carafe of raki. “Only if you join us,” I tell our waiter in my Cypriot-Greek. He needs little encouragement. “Yamas!” we declare, raising our glasses before downing the fiery spirit. The glasses are refilled. I know I’ll regret it in the morning, but we drink again, buoyed up by good food and excitement.

The next morning, fuelled by a delicious breakfast of fresh juice, coffee, pastries and freshly cooked eggs, delivered to our room, we jump in the car and drive half an hour south-east down the coast to Evotry, a roadside bakery that we are told to visit early to stand any chance of getting the best of the day’s bakes. Inside, it is a treasure trove: cakes and biscuits, alongside trahana (cracked wheat fermented with yoghurt), are all made by Stefanos and his wife Maria. Like many families in Greece, they press their homegrown grapes each September to make petimezi – a dark, naturally sweet grape molasses. As well as being sold in bottles, it also forms the base of many of their bakes, most notably kalitsounia (traditional Cretan sweet cheese pies). Found all around Lassithi, here they are distinct: Stefanos does not use refined sugar, relying solely on his petimezi for sweetness. We leave with a box and some cookies, and regret travelling with hand luggage only.

En route to our next stop of Mochlos, we are told about a 3,000-year-old olive tree so make a detour. The road climbs into the mountains, winding and steep. The tree is exactly as expected – vast and commanding, yet somehow gentle, like a great grandmother rooted in the landscape. We sit beneath its branches and eat the kalitsounia, surrounded by birdsong and the hum of bees.

We carry on east to Mochlos, a peaceful fishing village steeped in Minoan history on the far side of Mirabello Bay, and settle into Ta Kochilia, a waterfront taverna, for lunch. Octopus hangs drying in the sun; the sea sits just beyond the edge of the path. We keep things simple: grilled squid, horiatiki (Greek salad) and bread with local olive oil. The squid is tender, slightly charred, perfect. As always, there is fruit at the end, followed by something sweet – here, halva dusted with cinnamon – and strong Greek coffee, which briefly resets us before we continue inland.

After a 10-minute drive into the hills above Mochlos, we arrive at Nektaria’s Kitchen, an open-air cookery school where every detail, from the rustic tables and benches built by Nektaria’s father Tassos, to the wood-fired oven and herb-filled demonstration kitchen, feels considered.

On Nektaria’s website a range of four-hour cookery classes are on offer, from vegetarian and meat menus to olive oil tours and local wine tastings. However, I get the impression that whatever it is you want to learn, Nektaria will be able to teach you.

Over coffee, we chat with Nektaria, her partner, her father, her best friend. We are offered homemade treats: more kalitsounia, this time perfumed with orange blossom, and mounds of biscuits – spiced melomakarona and almond honey patouda, both traditionally made for celebrations. A slow-cooked joint of pork is pulled out of the wood oven to entice us to stay and join them for a meal later on. And while the food is delicious, it is Nektaria herself who is the star of the show. Having left a career in finance just four years ago, it is clear what she has created is less a cookery school than a gathering point – a life reorganised around food, hospitality and community.

We begin our last full day in quaint Kritsa, one of Crete’s oldest villages, just a 15-minute drive inland from our hotel. A winding main street is dotted with a range of shops, traditional cafes and a fascinating natural history museum and tapestry centre.

We begin at the women’s cooperative, where biscuits and cakes are being prepared for nearby restaurants. A demonstration is also being set up in the outdoor kitchen and dining area. We stock up on boxes of syrupy sweet pastries and a bag of skioufichta, a type of rolled Cretan pasta, ready to recreate the lamb dish from Karnagio on our return home.

Our penultimate stop is an olive oil tasting at the family-owned Mourello, where visitors can book a range of olive oil experiences. Escaping the midday heat, we’re seated in a cool, quiet room overlooking valleys of olive groves. Over two hours, Eleni guides us through her family’s growing, harvesting and pressing process in such detail that I leave feeling I could semi-confidently turn my hand to making my own olive oil. We taste and compare different grades and types. Mourello’s Vedema oil is outstanding – peppery, punchy and silky. We leave with several bottles under our arms.

For our last evening we drive up into the hills again to the village of Kroustas. Sitting at 520m above sea level, the view over Mirabello Bay is dramatic. We’ve booked a table at Xatheri, a destination restaurant that feels deeply rooted in family life and is much loved in the area. Chef Konstantinos has built the menu around recipes from his parents and grandmother, who we are told has just stopped by to check in on service. We start with one of her recipes, dolmadakia, small, delicate stuffed vine leaves. Goat stew arrives rich and slow-cooked, tossed through spaghettoni and topped with aged graviera cheese. And finally gamopilafo, also known as “wedding rice”, which feels appropriate given it’s our anniversary. It is deeply comforting and impossibly rich.

Despite protesting, dessert appears – a generous slice of galaktoboureko, a just-set vanilla cream encased in crisp syrupy filo, which is somehow light enough to avoid being cloying. There is dessert wine, then raki, of course. We leave not just full, but slightly reoriented – already thinking about returning to this calm corner of Crete.

The trip was provided by Simpson Travel , which offers a week at the Sand Suites from £1,124pp B&B, including flights and car hire