Acoma makes 100 years of history look like small change. To get there, you veer south from old 66 for 14 miles at the tiny town of Paraje, about an hour west of Albuquerque.
Also known as Sky City, Acoma is a Native community of earthen homes perched atop a 357-foot-high mesa. It has been occupied for roughly 1,000 years by the Acoma Pueblo tribe, which is independent of the nearby Navajo, Zuni and Laguna, with its own language and about 5,000 enrolled members.
Thanks to revenues from their Sky City Casino and hotel along Interstate 40, the Acoma also have a large, handsome Haa’ku Museum and Sky City Cultural Center next to the historic mesa. There, outsiders can gather for escorted tours of 60 to 90 minutes, mostly walking. It’s $30 per adult. Photography, binoculars and note-taking are closely restricted, and outsiders are generally forbidden from the mesa except on tours.
My group of 18 travelers was led by guide Gail Toribio, 27. After a quick bus ride up a steep road built in the 1950s, we found ourselves on top of the mesa, facing one massive church, about 500 homes and several pottery stalls that materialize during tours. The views were spectacular, the pottery was full of painstaking detail, and it was fascinating to see the ancient and modern elements together in the hilltop homes. But the biggest thing and most astonishing story on the mesa is the San Estévan del Rey Mission.
When Spanish troops and missionaries showed up in the 16th century, they forced labor and Christianity upon Native groups, often slaughtering and maiming those who resisted, including many Acoma. By the 1640s, forced labor had produced the church on the mesa, its 40-foot-long ponderosa pine beams dragged from Mt. Taylor, more than 30 miles away. Somehow, when the area’s tribes rose up in the Pueblo Indian revolt of 1680 and killed most of the Catholic priests in New Mexico, the church endured. And over time, Toribio told us, most Acoma families settled into a sort of dual faith, combining their traditional beliefs with Catholic rituals, including Christmas.
After the church, we walked among two-story homes that were here long before the first Europeans showed up. (Only a handful of the homes are still occupied full time.)
“I was actually raised up there,” potter Gwen Patricio, 52, told me back at the visitor center. “No electricity, no running water. They asked the elders if they wanted electricity, but they said no.”
When friends came to visit while I was studying in Berlin or I wanted to flaneur through the city, I would go to Maybachufer, a neighbourhood in the Neukölln district. Wander from U-Bahn station Kottbusser Tor in the direction of the Landwehrkanal and peruse the multicultural market taking place Tuesdays and Fridays. You can also attempt to haggle in your best German at the fortnightly Sunday flea market. Useful phrase: das ist zu teuer für mich (that’s too expensive for me). Stop for a bite to eat (or an Aperol spritz) alfresco at buzzing La Maison and spend the afternoon sat by the canal next to the Admiralbrücke historic wrought iron bridge, or at the nearby independent cinema Moviemento, which shows a wide variety of English-subtitled films. End the day with a döner kebap from one of the many takeaways or restaurants nearby and a trip to one (or more) of the local bars: Multilayerladen for its laid-back, homely aesthetic or Soulcat Music Bar for 50s and 60s music on vinyl. Kitty
Profile
Readers’ tips: send a tip for a chance to win a £200 voucher for a Coolstays break
Show
Guardian Travel readers’ tips
Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage
–
A Glaswegian neighbourhood ‘packed with hidden gems’
Albert Bridge and the Gorbals waterfront. Photograph: Allan Wright/Alamy
The Gorbals is an often overlooked neighbourhood in Glasgow but has a fascinating history and is packed with hidden gems. The Southern Necropolis is a must visit – it’s lovingly preserved by dedicated volunteers and celebrates the lives of ordinary local people alongside the likes of celebrated 19th-century architect Alexander “Greek” Thompson. No two streets are the same, with many buildings incorporating artwork such as The Gatekeeper, one of the UK’s few permanent suspended public sculptures, as well as murals of local legends and award-winning architecture. Keep your eyes peeled for seals (and even otters) by the river, before heading to the Pig and Whistle’s hidden beer garden. End the day at the iconic Citizens theatre, where a beautiful Victorian auditorium and the UK’s oldest surviving stage equipment have been restored, showcasing the biggest names in comedy and theatre alongside community productions. One of the best ways to see the neighbourhood is to take a Women of the Gorbals Heritage walk. Esther
Head out of Porto to the seaside
Foz do Douro in Portugal. Photograph: Wirestock/Alamy
To get to Foz do Douro from Porto it’s a quick journey on a tram from the riverside. The tram follows the beautiful River Douro, and you end up at the delightful seafront. There are sandy beaches, a 17th-century fort and a pleasant, shaded park. You can enjoy a stroll out to a picture-book lighthouse that sticks out into the Atlantic too. It is so close to the city, but allows you to melt into an entirely distinct, relaxed world. Alexander
A peaceful corner of Rome
The Coppedè district of Rome is famous for its curious fusion of architectural styles. Photograph: Alexander Langauer/Alamy
My favourite discovery in Rome lay just beyond the historical centre in the Coppedè district. Named after its architect, Gino Coppedè, who built it between about 1915 and 1927, the area is a curious fusion of styles, all blended in a way that feels almost Gaudí-esque. It’s easily reached by tram or bus, and it really lends itself well to slow exploration. Spend a morning wandering its quiet streets, admiring whimsical houses, ornate palazzos and fountains, before arriving at the beautiful Piazza Mincio. It’s a peaceful corner hiding right under our noses. Michael
Slovenian counterculture in Ljubljana
Metelkova Mesto art centre in Ljubljana. Photograph: Michalis Ppalis/Editorial/Alamy
Nestled just north of Ljubljana’s postcard-pretty centre, Metelkova, a former military barracks, has found a new lease of life as the heart of Slovenian street art and counterculture. By day, you can wander past graffiti-clad buildings, artists’ studios and small galleries; by night, explore quirky bars and a welcoming, laid-back crowd. The antithesis of the rest of Slovenia’s more polished, traditionally beautiful capital, it’s an ideal place to people watch and experience the raw, vibrant soul of the underground culture. It’s exactly the sort of place you stumble into by mistake and end up staying all afternoon. Michael Kuipers
Grand villas and nostalgia in Zagreb
A street in Gornji Grad, Zagreb. Photograph: Todamo/Alamy
I lived close to the Tuškanac neighbourhood while studying in Zagreb. Slip off a street called Ilica – the artery running east to west – and you’re suddenly on quiet, leafy slopes between Britanski trg (British Square) and Gornji Grad (Upper Town), oddly calm for somewhere so close to the centre. Grand villas sit alongside crumbling houses, half-hidden in the trees. Sundays meant a wander round Britanski trg – antiques, trinkets, and a sense of Jugonostalgia (nostalgia for Yugoslavia) I have absolutely no real claim to. Or a mali macchiato before a long walk uphill, passing Kino Tuškanac and its outdoor cinema. Louis Tomlinson
Haarlem shuttle
De Adriaan windmill in Haarlem. Photograph: Wiskerke/Alamy
Although it may be a prosaic observation, the public transport in the Netherlands really is fantastic. That’s how we found ourselves taking a 15-minute train ride to Haarlem while on a short break in Amsterdam. The centuries-old cobblestone streets, picture perfect canals and cafe-ringed squares were as lovely as you’d expect but my highlight was a tour of De Adriaan windmill. Run by enthusiasts, and half the price of some of the big-hitting museums, the guide gave a condensed social history of the Netherlands through the lens of a cultural icon. Jane Thomas
The best Brussels neighbourhood
Ixelles in Brussels. Photograph: Bildarchiv Monheim GmbH/Alamy
Ixelles in Brussels has everything that makes a neighbourhood fun: characterful backstreets to wander through; friendly bars; multicultural restaurants; plentiful green space; and interesting architecture from many periods including the newly restored, art nouveau Maison Hannon. But better than all this, it is a genuine community where people look out for each other and are welcoming to visitors. I am looking forward to visiting next year for the long-awaited reopening of the Ixelles Museum (currently scheduled for 19 March 2027). It’s worth a detour. Noelle
Culture and leafy walks in Cologne
Salon Schmitz in the Belgian quarter. Photograph: mauritius images GmbH/Alamy
Away from Cologne’s soaring Dom cathedral, the Belgisches Viertel (Belgian quarter) is an oasis of leafy streets and parks, just a short walk from the majestic Rhine. Stroll along avenues lined with art nouveau mansion blocks, pick up an art book at one of the many independent design boutiques, including Siebter Himmel, browse unique finds at vintage store Sevenues and eat vegetarian plates at the uber-cool Hallmackenreuther on Brüsseler Platz. In summer months, locals pack out bars along Aachener Straße for kölsch beer and cocktails, and in winter the Stadtgarten hosts an alternative arts Christmas fair, while park venue Jaki stages experimental theatre and club nights. Sophie
Winning tip: like being in a Strindberg play, Stockholm
Cafes in Rörstrandsgatan, Birkastan. Photograph: Michael Brooks/Alamy
Away from the centre of Stockholm where cruise ships drop large groups of passengers, try a stroll around the lovely area of Birkastan. I got off at the Sankt Eriksplan metro and immediately felt as if I was in an early 20th-century August Strindberg play as I explored cobbled streets with wooden houses and churches everywhere I turned. It’s a peaceful place where fika breaks (coffee and cakes) last longer and locals threw welcoming smiles at me as I browsed vintage clothes and record shops. The Rörstrandsgatan is its culinary centre and full of cosy cafes and cool restaurants serving cheap, filling soups with homemade bread – a perfect place to spend a winter’s day in Stockholm. Don’t miss the nearby Karlberg Palace and the wonderful walks in the area. Hire a bicycle to really get into the vibe of the district. Helen
Ibiza might be famed for its sleepless nights, but where you stay can shape the whole experience.
From serene sea-view luxury to buzzy beachside energy, the White Isle serves up escapes to match every mood.
Sign up for the Travel newsletter
Thank you!
Find rooftop heaven at Ibiza’s Ocean Drive Talamanca,
says writer Mia Lyndon
Talamanca’s whitewashed architectureCredit: Getty ImagesWe catch the sunset at the hotel’s rooftop Up And Down eateryCredit: Supplied by hotel PR
Sleepless nights are often a given on this island – but not at this stylish retreat. Here, you’ll find panoramic ocean views, an extensive pillow menu and truffles delivered at bedtime.
Tucked between Talamanca’s sandy beaches and whitewashed architecture are Ocean Drive’s four pools and 117 rooms, all facing the sparkling waters of Talamanca Cove.
Our room is decked out with a rainfall shower, floor-to-ceiling windows and a tower speaker – plus a welcome flaó, an Ibizan mint and aniseed cheesecake.
There’s a complimentary hangover supplement, too (though that remains in its box).
Take the plunge into the rooftop poolCredit: Supplied by hotel PRWe tuck into fresh seabass and prawns in a rich coconut, oyster and lime sauce, £30Credit: Supplied by Mia Lyndon
Downstairs, walls are adorned with local modern art, plus there’s a balmy sun terrace and the Almendra Boutique shop, stocked with whimsical Ibizan trinkets.
We catch the sunset at the hotel’s rooftop Up And Down eatery, and sip Montenovo, a crisp, vibrant white wine, £35 a bottle, while gazing at Ibiza Castle across the bay, as we tuck into fresh seabass and prawns in a rich coconut, oyster and lime sauce, £30.
Lunch is equally tempting, with indulgent sandwiches loaded with Iberian ham, Mahón cheese and truffle, £24, soaking up our rosé sangria, £7 a glass, before we plunge back into the rooftop pool.
Mia takes a stroll on the sandCredit: Supplied by Mia Lyndon
Mornings here are slow and relaxed – breakfast is served until noon and boasts local meats, Spanish cheeses and warm, freshly baked cookies.
We stroll along Talamanca’s sandy boardwalk ogling the yachts, and stop by B London Boutique to browse the colourful rails of swimsuits, wraps and shades (Blondonboutique.com), before setting up camp on the golden beach.
This is bliss. Double rooms at Ocean Drive Talamanca cost from £170 per night (Od-hotels.com).
Seek out Hyde Ibiza. . . For a cool pool scene,
says Assistant Editor Kelly Allen
Dive right in at HydeCredit: Supplied by hotel PRChill out back in the roomCredit: Julius Hirtzberger
Perched in the hills of Cala Llonga, 15 minutes further along the Isle’s east coast, is boho-chic Hyde Ibiza.
Head to its main pool, Hyde Beach, for an excellent playlist and cabanas, from £131 a day, to live it up – the fee is redeemable on food and drink.
At beachside eatery Sonrojo, we order seafood paella, £30, and sangria, £35 a jug.
Later, we catch the sunset on the terrace of Japanese restaurant Niko, feasting on umami-rich tuna and truffle maki, £24, and miso-glazed black cod, £37.
Hyde is just steps from the public ferry to Ibiza Town, Santa Eulalia and Leonardo DiCaprio’s fave nearby island, Formentera.
It’s also just 20 minutes from UNVRS, where we catch David Guetta (Unvrs.com), Ushuaïa, where Calvin Harris performs alfresco (Theushuaiaexperience.com), and Hï Ibiza, with its Wild Corner complete with a DJ booth inside the unisex loos (Hiibiza.com).
Recovery at beach club Amante proves a winner (Amanteibiza.com), and the views are so impressive that a mate back home thinks my pics are AI! Double rooms at Hyde Ibiza cost from £161 per night (Hydehotels.com/ibiza).
You’ll long for Cala Llonga beachCredit: Supplied by hotel PRKelly’s ready for the nightlifeCredit: Supplied by Kelly Allen
SHE was 35 and in her prime when Smash Hits magazine published images of her parading the stage in a skimpy bra – and scoffed: “Calm down, grandma!”
But the cutting headline, which accompanied a review of her Girlie Show tour in 1993, did nothing to deter the uniquely stylish Madonna.
Sign up for the Showbiz newsletter
Thank you!
In a career spanning more than 40 years, Madonna became the hottest female singer in the world, selling over 400million recordsCredit: Rafael PavarottiThe Queen of Pop has faced intense backlash over her appearance through it allCredit: InstagramMadonna with her boyfriend, former footballer Akeem Morris, 29Credit: instagram
In a career spanning more than 40 years, she became the hottest female singer in the world, selling over 400million records.
But through it all, the Queen of Pop faced intense backlash over her appearance.
Critics have judged everything from her cone bra in 1990 to her Met Gala “bondage”-style outfit in 2016, when she was 57.
But now, as Madge prepares to return to the spotlight with her 15th studio album, she has done what many thought would never be possible.
The Vogue singer confirmed this week that she will release her first record in seven years this July — a sequel to her 2005 smash Confessions On A Dance Floor.
The original, inspired by disco and Eighties electropop, shifted more than 10million copies.
It featured No1 singles Hung Up and Sorry, and ushered in a new era of dance music.
Now, Confessions On A Dance Floor: Part II is promising to be a continuation of the project.
And Madonna is still not letting her age define her fashion, posing in a blue leotard, fishnets, a silver jacket and shades in a defiant photo to promote the record.
The Vogue singer confirmed she will release her first record in seven years this July — Confessions On A Dance Floor: Part IICredit: APMadonna guest DJ’s with producer Stuart PriceCredit: instagram/madonna
A music insider said: “Madonna has locked in for this project and it’s not at all what you’d expect from any other woman who is nearly 70.
“It has roots in New York house music and rave culture and her record label believes it will usher in a whole new generation of fans.
“Confessions 1 showed Madonna at her coolest and, after straying into other genres on her last few albums, this feels wonderfully authentic.”
Madge is yet to release the album’s first single, but she has been steadily building a Gen Z fanbase, who have been discovering her back catalogue.
Last month, her 1985 chart-topper Into The Groove returned to the Top 20 after going viral on TikTok.
Cruz Beckham, KSI, Aitch and Sam Thompson were among those who shared videos of themselves dancing to the song 41 years after it was a No1 hit.
Madge is yet to release the album’s first single, but she has been steadily building a Gen Z fanbase, who have been discovering her back catalogueCredit: GettySabrina Carpenter said: ‘She’s so lovely and so exactly how you expect her to be — just, like, so magnetic’Credit: Getty
And she is heavily tipped to make a live return tonight at the buzziest festival of the year alongside one of the world’s hottest young pop stars, Sabrina Carpenter, 26.
The Espresso singer will headline the second weekend of Coachella in California and has extended her set by ten minutes, further fuelling industry whispers that Madge may join her on stage.
It would be the veteran pop star’s first performance there in 20 years. She delivered a memorable set in 2006 following the release of her first Confessions album.
Sabrina idolises Madonna as a blueprint for pop music — and there are suggestions they may have collaborated on a song.
In 2024, she paid tribute to Madge by attending the MTV VMAs in a vintage strapless gown previously worn to the Oscars by her musical hero in 1991.
Sabrina said of Madonna last year: “She’s so lovely and so exactly how you expect her to be — just, like, so magnetic.”
Madonna plays an epic set at Coachella Festival 20 years agoCredit: GettyStuart Price was musical director on her 81-date Celebration Tour in 2023 and 2024Credit: Getty
Many of the current crop of pop starlets have named Madonna as their top inspiration.
Dua Lipa has said her 2020 No1 album Future Nostalgia was heavily influenced by Madge, and she worked with her on a remix of her song Levitating.
Jade Thirlwall said last year: “She is one of the best pop stars we will ever get.”
It is a sea-change from previous generations who used Madge as a verbal punching bag.
When asked to name the most overrated person in pop, Lily Allen once said: “Madonna. She might have meant something once, but I don’t know many people my age who care.”
A Smash Hits magazine headline pouring scorn on her style back in 1993Credit: Unknown
And Lady Gaga insisted she could not be compared to the megastar, explaining: “I play a lot of instruments. I write all my own music . . . I’m a producer. I’m a writer. What I do is different.”
On Wednesday, Madonna released a snippet of upcoming track I Feel So Free, which heavily samples the 1989 house tune French Kiss by Lil Louis.
The original features more than two minutes of sex noises — something which seems fitting for pop’s most notorious provocateur.
For Confessions II, Madonna has teamed up again with British producer Stuart Price, who was musical director on her 81-date Celebration Tour in 2023 and 2024.
Meanwhile, her boyfriend, former footballer Akeem Morris, 29, is regularly seen dancing and larking around with her in videos on TikTok, where her clips have been liked over 45million times.
Last month, Madonna was in Venice shooting for the second series of the Apple TV show The Studio, in which she will appear opposite Julia Garner.
But now it is full steam ahead with her music, after re-signing with Warner Records — her label for the first 24 years of her career.
Madonna said of her new album: “When Stuart Price and I first started working on this record, this was our manifesto: We must dance, celebrate and pray with our bodies . . . To rave is an art. It’s about pushing your limits and connecting to a community of like-minded people.”