The West Highland Line has been named the world’s most beautiful railway, but does Scotland’s iconic 164-mile train journey truly live up to the hype? I boarded the train through the Scottish Highlands to find out.
The West Highland Line has it all (Image: Gordie Broon Photography via Getty Images)
“I think this is the most beautiful train line I’ve ever been on.”
Those words genuinely escaped my mouth as my wife and I rattled through the Scottish Highlands, skirting the edges of glistening lochs, weaving between ancient mountains, and crossing hauntingly stark yet stunning moorland.
“You’ve been on it before,” she kindly reminded me. Thankfully, my tendency to experience something and then completely forget about it doesn’t diminish its beauty one bit.
The legendary West Highland Line departs Glasgow and plunges deep into the west coast, steaming alongside the Clyde to Helensburgh, before heading north via Garelochhead and Loch Long towards either Oban or Mallaig. Shortly after escaping Scotland’s largest city, the undulating, wind turbine-topped hills begin to swell as the Highlands draw near.
The railway carries you northward along the coastline, passing through the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park. At Crianlarich, the track divides, continuing either past Loch Awe towards Oban, or climbing high up to Rannoch Moor.
The line traverses the moorland for 23 miles, ascending to over 400 metres and offering unrivalled vistas of one of Europe’s last remaining wild places: an enormous expanse of blanket bog, lochans, rivers, and rocky outcrops where curlews, grouse, roe deer, and red deer roam freely.
The Moor captured near-national fascination during the Victorian period, when initial fear and mild disgust at its wild and forbidding character transformed into devotion. Among the early travellers were the poet William Wordsworth and his sister Dorothy, who visited in 1803 and tentatively described the place as “desolate and extensively wild”.
Just seven years later, Scotland’s greatest champion, Sir Walter Scott, published his celebrated poem The Lady of the Lake. The work showcased Loch Katrine in the Trossachs, south of Rannoch Moor, thrusting it into the spotlight. Inspired visitors descended on the region to witness how “Summer dawn’s reflected hue to purple changed Loch Katrine blue” for themselves.
Travelling north to the Highlands and back again a few days later, we experienced both faces of this remarkable landscape. During our night journey, the glens and Munros loomed against the train window, making our tiny illuminated carriage feel insignificant as it rattled along. On the bright, sunny return trip, the breathtaking vistas — sparkling lochs nestled beneath sheer mountains capped with lush greenery — felt more reminiscent of Switzerland or Austria than bonny Scotland.
Without doubt, the most iconic spot along the route is the Glenfinnan Viaduct, immortalised in the Harry Potter films as the path of the Hogwarts Express. Passengers cross this magnificent structure en route to Mallaig, the terminus of the 164-mile line.
However, spending an afternoon at the viaduct may be worth reconsidering. During my visit, a persistent drizzle dampened the spirits of the crowds of Potter enthusiasts, many of whom appeared rather deflated by what was on offer: two pipers playing sombrely and some railway infrastructure. Add to that the fact that the locals of the 100-person village are fed up with the crowds, and the choice to give it a miss seems straightforward.
Mallaig is a far superior option, boasting excellent whale-watching excursions that provide frequent sightings of the cheerful minke pods inhabiting the waters.
There are numerous other attractions to discover along the route.
Corrour, Britain’s highest-altitude railway station, draws Trainspotting enthusiasts due to its prominent appearance in the film. It is equally picturesque and captivating. There are no roads here, so visitors head directly onto the walking trails via a quick meal at the Corrour Station House.
Another gem is Tyndrum. This former mining settlement is now the smallest location in Britain to boast two railway stations. They enable travellers to branch off, climbing steeply up the glen towards the north or west.
For me, the town marks the final stop in the Lowlands, the spot where you pause before heading across the Moor and into the mountains. Such adventures require fuelling up on fish and chips or curry at the superb Green Welly Boot Stop while watching its wonderful collection of birds.
The West Highland Line is far more than just a train journey. Step aboard and you’ll find yourself rubbing shoulders with forestry workers heading to work, mountain bikers, walkers, local schoolchildren, and railway enthusiasts eager to discover whether a route once crowned the world’s most beautiful truly lives up to its reputation. It’s a living tapestry of Scotland at its finest: mountains, moorland, lochs, wildlife, and history, all rolling out before you at a gloriously unhurried pace.
HAVING ditched London for the Kent coastline, my evenings are now spent walking along the beach. But it comes with a downside – the dreaded pricey commute.
A standard peak-time ticket on the high speed line costs me a whopping £105.60, despite it taking less than an hour.
Margate is a stunning holiday hotspot on the Kent coastlineCredit: Getty
Yet on that 52-minute commute, going from green countryside to dreary grey city buildings, I’m often dreaming of my next holiday.
And you’ll be surprised to know that there are a hell of a lot of holidays that are actually cheaper than that day ticket – both in the UK and abroad.
I’ve crunched the numbers to find return flights or cruises, as well as hotels, when going abroad, although you might need to factor in your own costs such as parking and bus transfers.
Some are day trips, so you can even save on the hotel and spend elsewhere, be it on culture or boozing.
So here are some of the 20 best holidays that are less than £105 each (and where I’d much rather be than in the office).
Three nights in Venice
A huge bargain deal lets you spend three nights in Venice for just £79, and it includes return London flights.
It comes with breakfast, so have a big one to get you through the day.
Skip the very expensive gondola rides and hop on a local one that costs just €2 (£1.74) and goes across the river.
If you want a bit of extra cash to spend, reduce the trip to just two nights, which takes it down to £49pp.
= £95.48pp
The Grand Canal on a sunny day in Venice, ItalyCredit: Getty
Weekend trip to Margate
You can get a Travelodge right by Margate station for just £33 a night – working out to £16.50 each – and return tickets from London are around £12 each way, if you book in advance.
That’s just over £40, which can get you some fish and chips from Beach Bouys (£14.50), AND you can squeeze a drink at The Mechanical Elephant (£5 pint), the Wetherspoons in town.
Dreamland is free to visit, as well as the very bizarre crab museum and the Turner Contemporary gallery.
= £60pp
The beach in Margate, KentCredit: Getty
One night Amsterdam cruise
Did you know you can spend the day in Amsterdam without having to sort flights or a hotel?
DFDS has some two-night mini cruises from Newcastle to Amsterdam for as little as £54.50 each (or £39.75 is sharing as a four, not two people). This includes a private overnight cabin as well as bus transfers to the city centre.
This leaves you with £50, best spent on a ticket to Anne Frank’s House (£14.35).
A cone of frites is around €4 (£3.50) and for a cheap drink, Backstage Bar has pints for under €5 (£4.35).
Free things to do include the boat to Amsterdam Noord, as well as Vondelpark and Rijksmuseum (or Van Gogh Museum on Friday evenings).
= £76.70pp
You can spend the day in Amsterdam without having to sort flights or a hotelCredit: Alamy
Two nights all-inclusive in Turkey
A two-night all-inclusive holiday in Turkey comes in just under budget too.
Be quick, as there are only a few days left in May.
= £99pp
Panoramic view of Antalya Old Town port, Taurus mountains and Mediterranean Sea, TurkeyCredit: Getty
Day trip to Oxford
Trains from London to Oxford take less than an hour, and can be found for as little as £5.40 each way.
Visit the Ashmolean Museum without spending a penny or spend your money on a university tour (£27). Harry Potter tours are also similarly priced.
The rest of your budget can go on a three-course menu at No.1 Ship Street (£26pp) named one of the best restaurants in the city, before heading home for the evening.
= £63.80pp
Oxford is a great day out for familiesCredit: Getty
One night in Milan
Loveholidays has one-night stays for £79 each, which includes return flights as well as an overnight stay.
The stay is at the B&B Hotel Milano, in nearby Monza.
But there is lots to do for free in Milan, such as visiting the outside of the Duomo or the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Head to Pizza Am where you can get an entire pizza for just €6 (£5.22) which comes with a free glass of fizz.
Famous for its Negroni Sbagliato, Bar Basso is where to end the evening where a cocktail will set you back a tenner.
= £94.22pp
View of the Peace Arch in Milan, ItalyCredit: Getty
Four nights camping in Spain
From £99pp, you could spend four nights at Estival Torre De La Mora with return flights.
This is based on a family of four, and the airport is super close to the campsite as well.
You have just £6 leftover, so probably best to pack some cereal and pasta from home.
= £99pp
A view of the Roman Amphitheatre in Tarragona, SpainCredit: Alamy
Holiday Pirates has done the hard work and found some cheap return flights to Majorca from £34, which leave in the morning and come back in the evening.
This leaves you with around £71 to spend on cocktails and dinner.
Marley’s has cheap pints and cocktails, so get one of each and it will cost you less than a tenner overall.
Sa Fonda has a Majorcan buffet in the week that is just €13.50 (£11.74) leaving more than enough cash for a fridge magnet or two…
= £55.74pp
You can fly to and from Majorca for as little as £34Credit: Alamy
One night in Fez
It isn’t just Europe on the cards; you could do an overnight stay in Morocco with Loveholidays for £99pp.
Along with flights, the deal includes hotels such as Riad Dar Guennoun (which comes with breakfast) or Hotel Ibis Fez.
Make the most of the free attractions like the Fes el Bali medina, while street food ranges from 40p for fried sfenj (doughnuts). A dinner out will usually cost about £8.
= £97.40pp
The Mosque at Bab Guissa Gate in Fez – MoroccoCredit: Getty
Four nights at Haven holiday park
One of the cheapest holidays you can go on in the UK is to a Haven holiday park.
Four nights start from £49 based on a family of four if you travel next month.
This doesn’t include access to the arcades and pools, so I recommend going for a break that does instead which is £69, or £17.25.
That leaves you around £87, so take your own food to save on breakfast.
Instead, treat yourself to a cocktail pitcher on your last night for £11 each, as well as a dinner for £10 each. You can even get a roast for a tenner each with cash to spare.
= £48.25pp
Haven is a great spot for families on a budgetCredit: Haven
A day in London
So if you are already living in London, there is an easy way to spend under £105 each.
A one-day travelcard for Zone 1-2 is £8.90 per adult, and it will certainly get its use.
Pre-theatre menus are a bargain too – try Gallio, where a two-course pre-show meal is just £20 each.
End the night at Cardinal Bar & Kitchen in Aldgate – where every day you can get pints of house beer for a fiver (and treat yourself to two).
= £75.90pp
The Hintze Hall with blue whale skeleton in the Natural History Museum in LondonCredit: Alamy
Two nights in Lake Garda
Two nights in Lake Garda is as little as £59 each, with dates even after summer. The two-night stay is at a 4* hotel, with return flights from London.
It includes breakfast, so make sure to have a big one. Then enjoy a fresh pizza for around £11 and an Aperol Spritz for £7.
Add in a boat tour too, as Get Your Guide has some to Sirmione for £21 each.
= £98pp
Lake Garda is a steal of a holiday with stunning viewsCredit: Alamy
Day trip to Calais
Another no drive option is heading to France via Eurotunnel for the day, which starts from £59 per car, so £14.75 per person.
Entering via Calais, you can explore some of France’s best seaside towns such as Boulogne-sur-Mer and Le Touquet-Paris-Plage.
But one of the closest is Wimereux, where you can grab a croissant and coffee for around £3, before heading to the beach for the day.
Have a dip in the sea pool before getting a ‘plat du jour’ (two-course lunch) for around £20 – and then make the most of cheap duty-free with by bringing 12 bottles of £5 wine home…
= £97.75pp
The waterfront in the seaside resort of Wimereux on the English ChannelCredit: Getty
The cheapest deals are £99 each for two nights with flights with Loveholidays.
This leaves you with £6 to play with, so you’ll need to bring your own food or head to the supermarket.
But spend your time just chilling on the beautiful beaches, catching some rays to keep costs down.
= £99pp
Alvor Beach in the Algarve is a must-seeCredit: Alamy
Four nights at Butlins
A last-minute holiday to Butlin’s is a bargain too, with four-night breaks next month for £49. The Bognor Regis stay is based on four people sharing, so that’s £12.25 each.
Add a dining plan, such as the Food Court Dining plan, which is around £50 each and includes buffet breakfast, dinner, and unlimited soft drinks and desserts.
You can even add on an All Action Pass (£15) for access to go karts, bowling, golf and trampolines, AND a two-hour spa experience and come under budget still.
= £105pp
Butlins has something for the whole familyCredit: Alamy
Two nights in Zagreb
Book your own flights and hotels, and you could spend two nights in the capital of Croatia for just £92pp. According to HolidayPirates, this includes return Ryanair flights from London Stansted and two nights at Zajceva 34.
The Historic Upper Town is free to see, as are walking tours, where you can spot some street art along the way, and the Museum of Contemporary Art on the first Wednesday, and the Archaeological Museum on the first Sunday.
You only have about a tenner for food so you’ll need to go to the supermarket, or you could try a “burek” meat pastry from street food stalls for about £5.
= £97pp
Zagreb is a great city break for those wanting a short tripCredit: Getty
Two-night Santander cruise
A no-flight holiday option is a two-night cruise to Spain, which starts from £99 per person when based on a four-person cabin.
This includes the return cruise and two nights onboard in a cabin.
This does only leave you £6, so pack some food… and save it for a wine in Santander (around £2 a glass).
= £101pp
Marina in Santander, Cantabria, northern SpainCredit: Getty
Two nights in Rome
The Italian city of Rome is both easy and cheap to get to. A two-night Wowcher deal in May has return London lights, a hotel and breakfast included for £79 each.
Tickets to the Colosseum will take you close to the budget, so I recommend seeing it from the outside instead (or go on the first Sunday of the month, where it is free as well) and see the free Pantheon as well.
Try Giano Restaurant for lunch, where a two-course meal and coffee is £19 each, followed by gelato for around £4.
= £102pp
The iconic Trevi Fountain in Rome is a must-seeCredit: Getty
One night in Krakow
How about an overnight in Krakow for £99 each? The Loveholidays deal for May has return London Luton flights and a stay at a three-star hotel.
Kraków is cheap, so get a Zapiekanka (pizza) for around £4.50 that will keep you full all day.
Exploring the Old Town is free, as are some of the museums, such as Schindler’s Factory on Monday or MOCAK on Thursday.
= £103.50
Krakow, Poland, is a great option for a cheap city breakCredit: Alamy
Two nights in Costa Brava
You could spend two nights in Spain for under £100, just.
Two nights in Costa Brava or Costa Dorada come in at £99 each with Loveholidays, although the latter has breakfast (so make sure to nab some rolls and snacks for lunch).
Put the last £6 towards supermarket snacks to take back to the pool where you can relax for the rest of the day.
= £105pp
Beach of Tossa de Mar, Costa Brava, SpainCredit: Alamy
One night Mystery Holiday to Europe
If you don’t know where you want to go, how about letting Wowcher decide for you?
Their famous European Mystery Holiday starts from £89pp, which includes return flights and two nights’ stay.
Some lucky winners could get seven nights, all-inclusive, so you won’t have to spend a penny.
Even those that don’t, you’ll have £16 left each to grab a cheap dinner and pint either from a restaurant or supermarket.
Make sure to check which museums are free to visit too, as most cities have a few.