Coliseum

Chris Stapleton and Chaka Khan celebrate America’s 250th at the L.A. Coliseum

In New York, the Brooklyn Bridge went up in flames briefly during a fireworks display. In Washington D.C., stormy weather delayed a grievance-filled speech by President Trump.

And here in Los Angeles? On Saturday night, tens of thousands of Angelenos joined voices peacefully at the L.A. Memorial Coliseum to sing along with Chris Stapleton as the country star compared a lover to Tennessee whiskey.

A unifying cultural figure beloved by both liberals and conservatives, Stapleton was the headlining act at a Fourth of July benefit concert that also featured Smashing Pumpkins, Chaka Khan, Maren Morris and Queen Latifah. (I’d be surprised if those five names had previously appeared together in the same sentence.) The show, with tickets priced at $17.76, was presented by America250, a bipartisan commission that Congress created in 2016 to plan celebrations for the country’s 250th birthday; proceeds went to Feeding America, which calls itself the largest domestic hunger-relief organization in the United States.

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“No politics — just purpose” is how America250 Chair Rosie Rios described the night in remarks from the stage, and it wasn’t hard to interpret the distinction she was seeking to draw between her group and Freedom 250, Trump’s rival semiquincentennial initiative that organized Saturday’s windblown event on the National Mall (not to mention an earlier concert by Vanilla Ice that was called off due to the threat of rain).

But here’s the thing: Compared with the president’s celebration, where he complained about his treatment by the justice system and suggested we should refer to his current term as his third, the show at the Coliseum really did feel like a politics-free zone — the somewhat rare occasion these days when folks from different walks of life come together just to listen to music and drink overpriced micheladas.

Said Stapleton not long into his set: “I won’t waste time talking.”

America250’s success was hardly a sure thing. Despite the relatively low price, tickets moved slowly in the weeks before the concert; one guy I talked to Saturday told me he’d paid six bucks for a discounted pass. Yet to my eyes the Coliseum was close to full by the time Stapleton came on.

The country singer was as solid and soulful as always, snarling gently through “Bad as I Used to Be,” then trading loving harmonies with his wife, Morgane, in “Millionaire.” He closed with “Tennessee Whiskey,” of course — a trusty yet somehow un-shopworn piece of Americana that’s earned a place on the shelf next to Ray Charles’ “Georgia on My Mind” and Willie Nelson’s “Angel Flying Too Close to the Ground.”

Smashing Pumpkins was perhaps a stranger fit for an explicitly patriotic event — “The world is a vampire,” frontman Billy Corgan sneered in “Bullet With Butterfly Wings” — yet the band sounded sharp and punchy in the ’90s alt-rock hits that have brought zoomers and even Gen Alpha kids into its audience.

Billed not inaccurately on the concert’s poster as “the legendary Chaka Khan,” the 73-year-old funk doyenne flexed her vocal chops in jammy renditions of “Ain’t Nobody” and “Tell Me Something Good” and got people hoisting their drinks for “I’m Every Woman.” Morris, who’d flown in from New York after attending her pal Taylor Swift’s wedding on Friday night, made an improbably smooth segue between her and Zedd’s synthed-up “The Middle” and the rustic “My Church.”

As the show’s host, Queen Latifah dispensed uplifting thoughts about American idealism throughout the evening but also got a slot of her own to do her classic “U.N.I.T.Y.” with help from a rambunctious drum line. It’s an unapologetic message song about demanding respect, and what was moving about hearing it here is that nobody seemed put off by that idea.

I’ll wave a flag for that.

Here are more photos from Saturday’s concert:

Chaka Khan performs.

Chaka Khan performs.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Queen Latifah hosted the show.

Queen Latifah hosted the show.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

A couple in patriotic garb share a kiss.

A couple in patriotic garb share a kiss.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Smashing Pumpkins performs.

Smashing Pumpkins performs.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

A concertgoer enjoys confetti.

A concertgoer enjoys confetti.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

Maren Morris performs.

Maren Morris performs.

(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Times)

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U.S. fans enjoy inexpensive World Cup energy at Coliseum

Tickets to watch the U.S. dominate Paraguay 4-1 on Friday night at Inglewood’s SoFi Stadium cost a fortune. But roughly nine miles north, fans such as Jose Santiago and Ivan Gonzalez enjoyed the match at a fraction of the price.

The pair each paid $10 for a ticket to watch the Stars and Stripes flourish in their first World Cup game on home soil in 32 years on big screens at the packed Coliseum on Day 2 of the Los Angeles FIFA Fan Festival.

“We bought these tickets [at the] last minute, not knowing what to expect,” said Santiago, of Fullerton. “And so far, we’ve been blown away. We definitely want to come back.”

“It’s dope,” added Gonzalez, of Yorba Linda. “You feel it. You feel the game. You feel the atmosphere. It’s fun. Everyone’s into it right now.”

Food and drink options. Pop-up tents featuring brands such as Galaxy and LAFC. A rare on-field experience at the home of USC football. And, of course, some good ‘ol collective effervescence.

“It makes you still feel like you’re a part of it,” Santiago said of his viewing experience. “It still makes you feel like you’re at the stadium, because we’re all watching the game.”

The U.S. took care of business in its World Cup opener. Presumably, those who could afford the intimidating ticket and parking prices at SoFi Stadium considered the experience worthwhile.

Santiago and Gonzalez, however, spoke for many who cherished their inexpensive night at the Coliseum, in the City of Angels itself, during their nation’s statement victory.

Fans cheer during a watch party at the Coliseum during the U.S. win over Paraguay Friday night.

Fans cheer during a watch party at the Coliseum during the U.S. win over Paraguay Friday night.

(Mario Tama / Getty Images)

Several other attendees would agree — even those who aren’t backing the U.S.

Take Charlotte Cabeca, a 37-year-old from downtown L.A., is primarily rooting for Colombia — as well as “anybody from South America” — but was still grateful for the opportunity to watch the beautiful game with other fans at a bargain.

“It’s so fun,” Cabeca said with a laugh, as “USA” chants rang in the background. “It’s a really kid-friendly and family-oriented [environment.] It’s not as hectic as I had anticipated.”

Cabeca said she’ll attend more fan events in L.A. throughout the tournament, as Friday marked “the closest we can get [and] that we can afford” compared to actually attending a World Cup match.

U.S. fans celebrate during a watch party at the Coliseum as Americans beat Paraguay during the World Cup Friday.

U.S. fans celebrate during a watch party at the Coliseum as Americans beat Paraguay during the World Cup Friday.

(Mario Tama / Getty Images)

Perhaps more important, though, Cabeca appreciates the community engagement unfolding before her eyes.

“I love that the city is coming together,” Cabeca said. “I feel the unity. And even these fanfests, they bring us together. So even if we’re not at the game, it still brings all of us together as a country.

“It’s awesome. The traffic is not helpful, but other than that, it’s exciting. I really feel like everybody is for soccer right now, and that’s what we need right now to heal and be happy together.”

While Friday was a night of smiles, chants and relative affordability, there remain fans who wish FIFA and the U.S. would do more to make the World Cup more accessible, particularly by making everything, well, cheaper.

“Obviously, football is a very hard sport to monetize, because we don’t have the breaks like the NFL,” Kunal Mehrotra, a 25-year-old soccer fan from Koreatown, prefaced before saying, “Without the fans, it isn’t really a World Cup. So, it is disappointing from the U.S., and it’s not just the tickets. … It really shows that the U.S. is in it for the money and not at all for the football, which is disappointing.”

“It’s pretty ridiculous,” added Monica Unzueta, a Maywood resident and fan of Mexico and Spain. “But aye, at least FIFA’s holding some events. I mean, they should be free. But, I don’t know — that’s just FIFA.”

While they’d rather attend a World Cup game live, as Mehrotra and Unzueta noted, that isn’t realistic for most residents.

So, nights such as Friday at the Coliseum are the next-best thing.

A fan wears an American flag during a U.S. World Cup watch party at the Coliseum on Friday.

A fan wears an American flag during a World Cup watch party at the Coliseum on Friday.

(Mario Tama / Getty Images)

And for fans such as Tyler David, a 24-year-old from Tampa, Fla., the trip to the home of the Trojans couldn’t have gone better.

“Beyond belief,” David said. “And it’s so cool to see everybody and the cultures colliding. Love it.”

Oh, and the USA’s big victory was splendid for fans too.

“Dude, absolutely magnificent,” David said, in disbelief of the U.S. leading 3-0 after 45 minutes against Paraguay. “Christian Pulisic, [coach Mauricio] Pochettino, all the guys, [Timothy] Weah. They’re playing at the top of the charts right now. I love to see it on the home soil in L.A.

“It’s getting me fired up; the fan base, the environment, the atmosphere — through the freaking roof.”

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Best places to eat and drink near the L.A. Coliseum

First-timers visiting the 35,000-square-foot Mercado La Paloma, take heed: The line likely trailing out the door and into the parking lot is specifically for Holbox, the most decorated and popular among the market’s seven food vendors. Chef Gilberto Cetina’s mariscos creations are revolutionary in their freshness and jigsaw-intricate flavors. Tuna tostada, scallop aguachile, coctel mixto and smoked kanpachi taco number among must-try dishes. Other wonderful options in the mercado await without the Holbox queues. Begin at Komal, where Fátima Juárez’s quesadillas and tacos, as beautiful as they are delicious, showcase the earthy-fragrant masa she crafts daily from heirloom corn varieties, and Chichén Itzá, where the Cetina family serves lush, orange-scented cochinita pibil and other specialties from the Yucatán. The mercado is such a vital sanctuary for the city that fellow critic Jenn Harris and I ranked it number one on our recent guide to the 101 Best Restaurants in Los Angeles.

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