coast

Where to find UK campsites that look like the Med from beach escapes to the ‘Secret Coast’

An image collage containing 3 images, Image 1 shows An outdoor swimming pool with people in the water and sunbathing, overlooking the ocean under a clear sky, Image 2 shows Reflecting pool in Portmeirion, Wales, Image 3 shows Four boats docked on a vibrant green lake under a tree branch

THERE are plenty of campsites around the UK, but some of them are so beautiful, it feels like they could be hundreds of miles away.

Sun Travel has teamed up with camping experts at Pitchup.com to find ones in the UK that look like they could be abroad from coastal escapes to secluded lakes.

Ardlui Holiday Home Park in Scotland has a busy marina and beautiful mountain views Credit: PitchUp
The lodges at Ardlui Holiday Home Park look more like chalets Credit: Pitchup

Ardlui Holiday Home Park

The first from Pitchup.com is Ardlui Holiday Home which looks over the marina on Loch Lomond in Scotland.

With its position on the lake and mountain backdrop it doesn’t look like it belongs in the UK.

The campsite welcomes families and dogs too – the nearby Ardlui Hotel serves up homemade food and Scottish whiskies.

The site offers camping, touring pitches, lodges and its waterfront glamping pods – tent pitches start from £18 per night for two adults.

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Portmeirion Motorhome Park

This motorhome site in Wales is part of the Italian-style Portmeirion Credit: Alamy

Portmeirion in Wales is known for looking like an Italian village with bright coloured buildings and pretty gardens.

Staying at Portmeirion Motorhome Park, the pitch price includes entry into the village itself.

You also get complimentary use of the heated outdoor swimming pool – so on a hot day you’ll feel like you’re paddling in Italy.

The campsite has pitches for motorhomes and campervans from £65 per night for two adults.

Pencarnan Farm Caravan and Camping Site

This campsite sits on the western side of Pembrokeshire Credit: Unknown

On a bright summer‘s day, a stay at Pencarnan Farm Caravan and Camping Site on the most western tip of Pembrokeshire could look like it could be abroad.

The campsite has direct access to Porthsele Beach and has incredible views of St Georges Channel.

The sea and bay are safe for swimming, kayaking and there are plenty of rockpools to explore at low tide.

There are pitches for tents, caravans and motorhomes starting from £34.80 per night for two adults.

Seaview Gorran Haven Holiday Park

This campsite has a Mediterranean-looking swimming pool overlooking the sea Credit: Unknown

Set on the Roseland Peninsula this campsite is surrounded by green fields and the Cornish blue sea.

It has a heated outdoor pool with a large patio and sunloungers that’s open to guests in the summer months.

Nearby attractions include the Lost Gardens of Heligan and the Eden Project.

It has grass and hardstanding pitches which start from £50 per night for two adults.

Atlantic Beach Resort

The Atlantic Beach resort has a swimming pool and its close to beautiful beaches Credit: Unknown

Thanks to its enormous swimming pool and proximity to some of Cornwall’s top beaches this campsite has the potential to feel like it’s in Europe.

Found on Cornwall’s north coast, it’s within minutes of some incredible beaches from Watergate Bay to Fistral Beach and Lusty Glaze Beach.

The campsite also has plenty of facilities like a playground for kids, segway adventures, laser tag and 80 classes per week at the gym.

It has grass and hardstanding pitches as well as bell tents – rates start from £36 for two adults for two nights or £9pppn.

Portavadie Loch Fyne

The Scottish campsite on Loch Fyne has an infinity swimming pool Credit: Andy McCandlish

Portavadie Loch Fyne sits on the shores of a loch known as the ‘Secret Coast’ on the Scottish islands

It’s less of a standard campsite and more of a spa and leisure resort and it even has a heated infinity pool that looks out over the water.

There are indoor pools too, a gym as well as cycling trails through the forest.

Electric and grass motorhome pitches start from £28 per night for two adults.

Cornish Tipi Holidays

This campsite is set around a bright green lake Credit: Unknown

This peaceful campsite is found in a woodland valley and sits by an on-site lake which guests can swim in or take a small boat out.

The wild camping site is remote and suitable for anyone wanting a quiet break in nature.

It’s not far from the coast either – it’s a five-minute drive away from the nearest beach.

There are a variety of pitches as well as Tipi tents which can be booked out from £192 for two adults for two nights.



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Tiny island with Caribbean-like beaches off the coast of UK set to be even more popular after 80s TV series reboot

THE detective series Bergerac has returned to screens and in turn has been showing off a beautiful island less than one hour away from the UK.

The series filmed in Jersey has been showcasing its Caribbean-like beaches and pretty capital, St Helier.

The series Bergerac returned last year but has just dropped on BBC iPlayer Credit: UKTV
The series filmed over the Channel Island of Jersey which is expecting more visitors Credit: Alamy

The reboot of the 80s detective series starring Damien Molony as Jim Bergerac actually returned last year.

But it’s set to reach a ‘wider audience’ having dropped all six episodes of the first series on BBC iPlayer a few days ago.

The island of Jersey, where the majority of scenes were filmed, is now expecting a surge in visitors.

Visit Jersey Chief Executive Tricia Warwick said: “The series has already impactfully raised Jersey’s profile as a visitor destination, and this new platform means even more viewers will discover our island’s stunning landscapes and unique locations for themselves.

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“We look forward to warmly welcoming them to Jersey.”

The Channel Island is a true gem of a place and has previously even been named one of the world’s best islands by Conde Nast Traveller.

While it’s less than an hour from the UK, it feels worlds away, mostly thanks to its Caribbean-looking beaches.

Across its 130 miles of coastline are exotic spots from Beauport Beach, Portelet Bay to Plémont Bay.

Many beaches, like St Brelade’s Bay, are also lined with palm trees, which gives them a tropical feel.

The island’s capital, St Helier, is also home to Havre des Pas Bathing Pool, a tidal lido that fills up with seawater at high tide.

St Brelade’s Bay Beach has been compared to the Caribbean Credit: Alamy

Not only is it a sought-after swim spot with some calling it a ‘good old-fashioned lido’, but it also has an open kitchen, dance floor, stage and a balcony that looks over the pool.

St Helier is also a prime spot for shopping at Royal Square, King Street and its indoor market on Halkett Street.

The first series of Bergerac which aired between 1981 and 1991 starring John Nettles was filmed in Jersey.

Head of Sun Travel (Digital) Caroline McGuire visited the island a few years ago. She said: “If I told you there’s an island an hour’s flight from the UK, with a Caribbean-like coastline, that gets summer quicker than England and you don’t need a passport – you’d think I was pulling your leg.

“But such a unicorn does exist in the English Channel: Jersey.

“When my family and I visited earlier this year, every beach was outstanding, the weather glorious, the food a fantastic hybrid of French and English tastes.”

Beauport Beach is one of the island’s beautiful beaches Credit: Getty
St Helier also has a popular lido called Havre Des Pas Bathing Pool Credit: Alamy

Caroline headed to Plémont Beach in the north which had “clearest turquoise waters” but she also visited St Ouen’s Bay and Le Braye bistro which is right on the beachfront.

Other popular activities include dolphin-spotting boat rides and exploring its secret tunnels that were used in World War Two.

Luckily for Brits, Jersey is less than an hour away by plane.

The route departing from Southampton to Jersey Airport in Saint Peter takes 50-minutes.

For those who aren’t fussed about getting there quickly, another route to the island is by ferry.

Condor Ferries offers routes from Poole, and Portsmouth to St Helier which take between four and a half to 10 hours.



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U.S. Coast Guard Seeking Technology To Hunt And Kill Uncrewed Underwater Vehicles

From the ongoing conflict with Iran, to the Ukraine war and hotspots around the world, aerial drones have proven to be extremely dangerous and effective weapons and a mad rush is on to counter them. It is a technology race that makes headlines on a near daily basis. However, a similar but far quieter and less visible threat is emerging below the waves and now the U.S. Coast Guard (USCG) is looking to do more about it.

Faced with a growing threat from uncrewed underwater vehicles (UUVs), the USCG is seeking technology not just to detect these weapons, but to defeat them. Ports and other maritime facilities are vulnerable to this kind of attack vector, and our adversaries surely know it. The effort is being led by the Coast Guard Futures Development and Integration (FD&I) Directorate, which oversees research, modeling and simulation, technology forecasting, and field experimentation. It is part of the service’s role to protect U.S. maritime assets and comes as adversary militaries and non-state actors alike, are developing a wide array of UUVs for surveillance, strike and sabotage.

“UUVs are increasingly used in both public and military maritime operations due to their versatility, stealth, and ability to operate in challenging environments,” the Coast Guard noted in its request for solutions (RFS) posted Friday on the government’s online contracting portal. “However, the proliferation of UUV technology has introduced new threats to maritime security. Malicious actors can employ UUVs for a range of activities, including intelligence gathering, surveillance, smuggling, sabotage of critical infrastructure, and kinetic strikes. The covert nature and advanced navigation capabilities of modern UUVs make them difficult to detect, track, and mitigate using traditional maritime interdiction tactics.”

The HSU100 unmanned underwater vehicle is seen during a military parade marking the 80th anniversary of victory over Japan and the end of World War II, in Beijing's Tiananmen Square on September 3, 2025. (Photo by Greg Baker / AFP) (Photo by GREG BAKER/AFP via Getty Images)
The HSU100 unmanned underwater vehicle is seen during a military parade marking the 80th anniversary of victory over Japan and the end of World War II, in Beijing’s Tiananmen Square on September 3, 2025. (Photo by Greg Baker / AFP) GREG BAKER

The most vivid example of this threat took place in December, when Ukraine claimed it used a UUV to strike an Improved Kilo class diesel-electric submarine, in the Black Sea naval stronghold of Novorossiysk. Ukraine’s state security service (SBU) told us at the time they used its Sub Sea Baby UUV to navigate through the harbor and hit the submarine.

It remains unclear how much damage the submarine sustained. However, the incident showed Ukraine was able to slip a UUV into a heavily defended harbor, in daylight, and detonate its warhead next to a prized Russian submarine worth, hundreds of millions of dollars.

The following satellite image showed a view of the submarine after the UUV hit.

Satellite image from after the attack, with an overview of the targeted submarine, within the harbor, and another submarine moored outside of it. Other ships are also moored nearby. (Satellite image ©2025 Vantor)

Here is a video of the attack:

In an earlier example of these vehicles being used as a weapon, the U.S. Navy found itself having to fire on a threatening Houthi UUV in February 2024, according to U.S. Central Command (CENTCOM).

“Between the hours of 3:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. (Sanaa time), Feb. 17, CENTCOM successfully conducted five self-defense strikes against three mobile anti-ship cruise missiles, one unmanned underwater vessel (UUV), and one unmanned surface vessel (USV) in Iranian-backed Houthi-controlled areas of Yemen,” the command stated on X at the time. “This is the first observed Houthi employment of a UUV since attacks began on Oct. 23, [2023].”

Hamas used UUVs even before that in an attempt to attack Israeli naval assets in 2021, according to the Times of Israel.

“While the small autonomous underwater drone was still close to the shore, an Israeli Navy vessel destroyed the device, and an IDF aircraft attacked the operatives that launched it in order to thwart the threat,” the military said, according to the outlet.

“Hamas has for years been believed to be developing autonomous submarines,” Times of Israel added. “The Israeli Navy believes that the models in the terror group’s arsenals are guided by GPS and capable of carrying some 30 kilograms (66 pounds) of explosives. Such weapons could be directed against targets both out at sea and along Israel’s coastline.”

The threat from these systems has come a long way. America’s near-peer adversaries are far more advanced in this regard and weapons that can travel great distances undersea, operating on their own, offer a distinct asymmetric advantage. As with Pearl Harbor, it is far more convenient to strike ships in port than to hunt them at sea. China, notably, has invested heavily in uncrewed underwater vehicles for years.

China's HSU001 underwater drones are seen during a military parade at Tiananmen Square in Beijing on October 1, 2019, to mark the 70th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China. (Photo by GREG BAKER / AFP) (Photo by GREG BAKER/AFP via Getty Images)
China’s HSU001 underwater drones are seen during a military parade at Tiananmen Square in Beijing on October 1, 2019, to mark the 70th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. (Photo by GREG BAKER / AFP) (Photo by GREG BAKER/AFP via Getty Images) GREG BAKER

“There are effective technologies with the capability to detect and track UUVs, but few tested and fielded defeat/mitigation systems,” the Coast Guard said in the RFS. 

There are really two areas where these technologies land, in general. Providing early warning and tracking of UUVs over larger areas and coastal and harbor defense, the inner layer where UUVs are arguably most dangerous.

For the U.S., persistent and broad area undersea surveillance coverage has historically been provided by large networks of static hydrophones that are extremely costly to establish, operate, and maintain. They were also designed to detect large submarines, not far smaller UUVs. The U.S. Navy’s Cold War Sound Surveillance System (SOSUS) network is perhaps the best-known example of such a system. Portions of SOSUS do remain in service, but are now used more for scientific research than watching for foreign submarines. SOSUS has been largely supplanted operationally by a mix of fixed sensor arrays, surface ships towing sonar, and processing stations ashore known collectively as the Integrated Undersea Surveillance System (IUSS).

Last year, TWZ highlighted one of many alternatives being developed by industry, Anduril’s readily deployable undersea surveillance system called Seabed Sentry. It uses networks of small and relatively low-cost modular sensor nodes to detect and track undersea threats. You can read more about that system and how it operates in our story here.

Anduril, working with Ultra Maritime’s Sea Spear deployable sonar system, demonstrated the latest iteration of this system during the Navy’s recent Lanternfish exercise, which “brought together the U.S. Navy, United Kingdom Ministry of Defense explosive ordnance disposal units, Royal Australian Navy UUV Operators and defense industry professionals to build seamless interoperability,” according to the U.S. Navy.

Anduril TREVOR DALTON

The inner layer of defense benefits from ongoing development and evolution, from sensors for detecting divers and objects to marine mammals that can do the same. Still, UUVs offer unique new challenge to contend with.

Last month, Naval Surface Warfare Center (NSWC) Panama City and Unmanned Undersea Vehicle Group (UUVGRU) One “executed a multi-national harbor protection demonstration to show how the advancement of technology plays a crucial role in protecting the Navy’s assets during exercise Baltic Operations (BALTOPS) 2026,” NSWC said.

The demonstration “showcased three emerging technologies including an expeditionary air curtain, an artificial kelp UUV net, and sea water neutralization charges which are designed to counter UUV threats,” the release added.

“The expeditionary air curtain is a rapidly deployable underwater system that is used to protect mission-critical assets below the waterline. The air curtain defends against UUV threats and can be used at Naval bases and military installations as well as ports and harbors by aerating the water to affect the UUV’s depth sensors, acoustic sensors, buoyancy and propulsion.”

“We are testing the air curtain to see how it disrupts and hinders UUV sensors. It is a quick, expeditionary solution because it can be deployed easily,” said Javi Handal, a Senior Electrical Engineer with NSWC Panama City.

He did not provide further details about these systems.

260610-N-HI500-1022 LIEPAJA, Latvia (June 10, 2026) - Electronics Technician, Submarine Navigation 1st Class Kenneth Mangahas, left, and Torpedoman's Mate 1st Class Gerardo Gonzalez, assigned to Unmanned Undersea Vehicle Group (UUVGRU) 1, prepare to launch an Iver3 Unmanned Underwater Vehicle (UUV) during exercise Baltic Operations (BALTOPS) 2026 in Liepaja, Latvia, June 10, 2026. BALTOPS 2026, the premiere maritime-focused exercise in the Baltic Sea region, provides a unique training opportunity to strengthen combined response capabilities critical to preserving freedom of navigation and security in the Baltic Sea. (U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 1st Class Brandie Nuzzi)
Electronics Technician, Submarine Navigation 1st Class Kenneth Mangahas, left, and Torpedoman’s Mate 1st Class Gerardo Gonzalez, assigned to Unmanned Undersea Vehicle Group (UUVGRU) 1, prepare to launch an Iver3 Unmanned Underwater Vehicle (UUV) during exercise Baltic Operations (BALTOPS) 2026 in Liepaja, Latvia, June 10, 2026. (U.S. Navy photo by Mass Communication Specialist 1st Class Brandie Nuzzi) Petty Officer 1st Class Brandie Nuzzi

Regardless, the Coast Guard is looking to industry for other options.

“Defeat technologies are an essential piece in the kill chain, as detection is only the first step to stopping the threat,” its RFS explains. “The development and deployment of effective C-UUV defeat solutions will enhance maritime domain dominance (MDD), port security, and critical infrastructure protection, enabling reliable response actions to neutralize UUV-based threats.”

The Coast Guard said it is specifically interested in “solutions that have been tested and demonstrated to be effective in operational settings, with a Technology Readiness Level (TRL) of 5 or higher.”

The Pentagon describes TRL 5 as systems where the “basic technological components are integrated with reasonably realistic supporting elements so it can be tested in a simulated environment. Examples include ‘high fidelity’ laboratory integration of components.”

The requested technologies should be capable of supporting Ports, Waterways & Coastal Security operations, “addressing the unique challenges posed by UUVs in these environments,” the Coast Guard added.

“We are looking for systems that can provide reliable performance in real-world conditions, including but not limited to sensor platforms, kinetic solutions, and integrated response solutions,” the RFS notes. “Respondents are encouraged to submit information on products or systems that are currently available for procurement, have undergone field testing, and are suitable for deployment in port, harbor, and waterway security scenarios. Defeat solutions should be scalable and adaptable for compatibility with existing detection systems and/or various configurations for different ports.”

A 32-foot Transportable Port Security Boat splashes in the wake of a vessel while in pursuit during a simulated training exercise in San Francisco, March 14, 2026. The U.S. Coast Guard men and women train and prepare to respond to a crisis or contingency that may come without warning, including rescuing those in distress, responding to hurricanes or national incidents, and defending the nation as part of the armed forces. (U.S. Coast Guard photo by Petty Officer 3rd Class Austin Wiley)
The Coast Guard wants to augment existing port security with new systems that can defeat uncrewed underwater vehicles (UUVs). (U.S. Coast Guard photo by Petty Officer 3rd Class Austin Wiley) Petty Officer 3rd Class Austin Wiley

The Coast Guard is limiting its search to “only systems with an effector or with direct mitigating capabilities, or with detection, tracking, identifying, and mitigating capabilities. Submissions that do not include defeat capabilities will not be considered at this time.”

Interested parties have two weeks to submit their proposals. We reached out to the Coast Guard to find out more details about timelines and budgets and will update this story with any pertinent information provided.

As Ukraine proved last year, the threat from UUVs is real and growing, giving adversaries hard-to-detect and difficult-to-defeat autonomous weapons that can be launched from great distances and potentially operated in concert. The Coast Guard request is the latest example of the U.S. government’s increasing effort to get after this emerging threat.

Contact the author: howard@twz.com

Howard is a Senior Staff Writer for TWZ. He writes frequently about conflict, focusing heavily on the Middle East and Ukraine, and interviews with military and intelligence officials and industry leaders from around the globe. He lives near Tampa, Florida, home of U.S. Central Command, U.S. Special Operations Command.


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Why Scotland’s cinematic Moray coast made it a perfect location to shoot The Odyssey | Scotland holidays

The incoming tide has made a labyrinth of the beach. As silvery rivulets spread across Culbin Sands to meet the mudflats, my walk becomes increasingly circuitous: weaving inland towards the pine forest, backtracking closer to the waves, skirting tidal pools and scaling dunes constantly resculpted by the North Sea breeze.

In this shapeshifting stretch of north-east Scotland’s Moray coast, there’s not another soul in sight, nothing to anchor me to the modern day. It’s easy, then, to imagine a longship bringing weary warriors ashore, or a band of man-eating giants marauding from the woodland. Which is exactly what happens here – on screen – in Christopher Nolan’s adaptation of The Odyssey.

At first glance, Scotland is not an obvious backdrop for a nearly 3,000-year-old Greek epic. While the poem describes the Ithacan king Odysseus and his men being cast adrift on mysterious, far-flung shores, its imagined geography is the Mediterranean (unsurprisingly, Sicily, Morocco and the Peloponnese are the movie’s other locations). Few people who live in Moray, including me, anticipated Hollywood actors Matt Damon, Zendaya and Tom Holland descending on our local beaches and sleepy fishing villages last summer. The Moray coast isn’t even well known domestically, overshadowed by the likes of the Isle of Skye and the North Coast 500 driving route in the Highlands.

The more I think about it, though, the more Nolan’s decision makes sense. Unfurling due east of Inverness in a series of vast sand dunes, shingle bars, pine-edged marshes and sandstone skerries, this coastline is both cinematic and unusually varied. The absence of tourist crowds and coastal development must be a boon to film-makers.

Yet the resonances between the world of The Odyssey and these Scottish seafaring communities run deeper than scenery. Legends cling like barnacles to Moray’s shores. Superstitions intermingle with real histories of sieges and tragedies. Take the “Atlantis of the North” at Culbin Sands, the RSPB nature reserve and forest where Matt Damon’s Odysseus clashes with the giant-like Laestrygonians. A thriving agricultural estate and village stood here until 1694, when a freak sandstorm buried the settlement in a single night. Locals blamed either a witch’s curse or their reckless laird’s bargain with the devil.

Culbin Sands, where Matt Damon’s Odysseus clashes with the giant-like Laestrygonians.
Photograph: Jan Holm/Alamy

“The lore you hear along this coast is worthy of a Homeric epic,” says Moray-based author and classicist VJ Randle, whose novel The Athenian Murders is inspired by Greek mythology. She leads me along a section of the 50-mile Moray Coast Trail. Through an early morning Stygian sea-mist, we set off from the fishing village of Hopeman, the sandy footpath weaving between tangles of gorse and heather, before we clamber over the rock pools of Clashach Cove to a shadowy opening between the golden sandstone cliffs.

“This cave always reminds me of Calypso’s home,” Randle says. “Although locally, it’s said that a scarier sort of sea-spirit lives here.” She’s talking about the Grin Iron Wife – a witch with pale-green skin, rusted-red teeth and hair of seaweed who drags children and the elderly down to her underwater lair.

Such tales were once shared by seanchaidhean – oral historians who preserved heroic battles, local legends and clan genealogy. They were to Scottish Gaelic culture what the wandering bards were to ancient Greece.

It’s a fading tradition that local storytellers like Michelle van den Hout of Otherworldly Tales are helping to revive. Her walking tours introduce figures with striking parallels to classical mythology: the Scottish creator goddess and giantess Cailleach, a titan if ever there was one, islands and mountains formed from the rocks that fell from her creel basket; or the siren-like Ceasg, luring sailors who listened to her song to a watery grave.

Burghead harbour is where The Odyssey’s film crew docked a longship alongside the usual fishing vessels.
Photograph: Helen Hotson/Alamy

Such tales were never simply about frightening people, van den Hout explains: “For isolated coastal communities, storytelling was a way to pass down lessons about survival, respecting nature and how to treat strangers. Rather than warning a child with, ‘Careful, that place has a riptide,’ it was more effective to say that a witch lives there.”

Threats coming from the North Sea could sometimes be made of flesh and blood, of course. In the town of Burghead, I stand on the grassy promontory overlooking granite cottages huddled around a working harbour. This is where The Odyssey’s film crew docked a 35-metre (115ft) longship last year alongside the usual fishing vessels. My attention turns to the raised earthworks beneath my feet: the remains of one of the largest Pictish forts ever built, burnt down in the 10th century, most likely during a Viking raid.

Along the neighbouring beach of Roseisle, dozens of barnacle-covered concrete blocks and pillboxes are wedged in the sand, half buried, like the ruins of a forgotten civilisation – and resembling the Trojan horse in the movie. But these relics are not ancient; they’re part of a vast defensive frontier from the second world war, when Moray became a secret training ground for the D-day landings. This legacy continues beneath the waves, where several sunken tanks from the wartime exercises can be explored on scuba diving excursions.

Heading further east, the cliffs steepen and craggy outcrops have long stirred up stories of metamorphosis. The soaring, 50ft sea-arch of Bow Fiddle Rock, for instance, is a giant that’s fallen beneath the waves, only the edge of his fiddle still visible, and the cries of nesting seabirds are its mournful music.

A few miles further on, the ruins of Findlater Castle cling to a narrow promontory. Befitting its turbulent past, from Viking occupation to being besieged by troops loyal to Mary, Queen of Scots, this is where Nolan has the sorceress Circe bewitch Odysseus’ men into swine.

Findlater Castle, where Christopher Nolan has the sorceresss Circe bewitch Odysseus’ men into swine. Photograph: John Bracegirdle/Alamy

There’s magic on my visit, too, only it erupts from the ocean below. The setting sun is a bronze shield, the sea uncharacteristically calm, when a dozen dorsal fins pierce the surface. Bottlenose dolphins. They’re a regular sight along these shores, with the Moray Firth home to Europe’s most northerly resident pod. Minke whales, humpbacks and orcas sometimes pass through, too, making this one of the UK’s best cetacean-spotting locations.

A motor launch scuds across the bay, heading for shore apace as dusk falls. My thoughts turn to homecomings. That, after all, is the essence of The Odyssey, more than monsters or battles. The hero’s yearning to return. His wife Penelope anxiously waiting. Countless women through the centuries have surely done the same from this very clifftop, staring out to sea for a sign of a familiar sail.

But a visit to Buckie and District Fishing Heritage Centre the following day reveals that the Moray coast’s fishwives were no idle, passive Penelopes. While the menfolk were at sea, they baited thousands of hooks by hand, gutted and packed herring, and trudged 13 miles inland to sell their catch.

One faded, sepia photograph in the display is unforgettable: it shows the female fishers, barefoot and skirts hitched, carrying their husbands on their backs through the surf, ensuring the men’s boots stayed dry before they boarded their boats. These are, perhaps, the true heroes of these Scottish shores: not a cunning soldier-king, as Homer would have it, but the stalwart, unsung “fisher lassies”, sharing a sea-swell of stories and ballads as they worked.

Where to stay
The Odyssey’s cast and crew made their base at The Seafield Arms in Cullen (doubles from £150). “The production team turned our meeting rooms into a working base for editing the film,” says owner Charles Milne, “while our grand ballroom became a private cinema where Christopher Nolan and the crew watched the day’s footage each evening.” Its refurbished self-catering accommodation Bow Cottage, where Matt Damon stayed, has been decked out with ancient Greek-inspired touches and movie memorabilia for visiting fans (sleeps seven from £300 a night, minimum three-night stay.) While you’re in Cullen, browse the shelves at Beinn Books for collections of Scottish folklore or perhaps a translation of Homer’s original.

How to get there
National rail services run to Inverness and Aberdeen, with onward train and bus connections to larger coastal towns. Hiring a car is the easiest way to reach its more remote beaches, castles and walking trails.

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Tropical Storm Bertha nearing southern Louisiana coast

Tropical Storm Bertha was moving a little south of west over southeastern Louisiana as of Wednesday night. Image courtesy of NOAA.

July 23 (UPI) — Tropical Storm Bertha was nearing southern coast of Louisiana late Wednesday, hours after it made landfall over the state, according to forecasters.

The center of the storm was about 75 miles southwest of New Orleans and about 135 miles east-southeast of Lake Charles, La., the National Hurricane Center said in its 10 p.m. CDT update. The storm was traveling west at 12 mph and had maximum sustained winds of 45 mph, marking no change in strength or direction.

There was a tropical storm warning in effect from the Alabama-Mississippi border to Sargent, Texas, and metropolitan New Orleans and Lake Pontchartrain.

The NHC said a faster westward or west-southwestward track is expected for Bertha over the next day or so.

“On the forecast track, the center of Bertha will move near or along the Louisiana and upper Texas coasts through Thursday afternoon, and then move farther inland into Texas Thursday evening and Thursday night,” the NHC said.

Little change in strength in the storm is expected over the next day or so. Bertha is expected to maintain tropical storm intensity until it reaches the upper Texas coast on Thursday. It’s expected to dissipate inland over Texas by Thursday night or Friday.

Bertha, which formed Monday night, is expected to produce total rainfall amounts of 1 to 4 inches with isolated higher totals through Thursday along the central Gulf Coast from western Florida into southern Louisiana. This could produce isolated flash flooding, especially in urban areas, the NHC said.

Surf conditions caused by Bertha will continue spreading west along the northern Gulf Coast, with swells likely to cause life-threatening surf and rip current conditions

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Conditions from Tropical Storm Bertha to continue spreading across northern Gulf Coast

Tropical Storm Bertha, which formed Monday, continued to move along the Gulf Coast on Tuesday. Image courtesy of NOAA

July 21 (UPI) — Conditions from Tropical Storm Bertha will continue to spread into Wednesday across parts of the north Gulf Coast, the National Hurricane Center said. Tropical storm conditions are possible in Louisiana by late Wednesday.

The storm, which isn’t expected to become a hurricane before fizzling out, formed Monday night.

The epicenter of the storm was located about 120 miles west-southwest of Panama City, Fla., and 105 miles south-southeast of Mobile, Ala., the NHC said in its 7 p.m. CDT update. The storm was traveling west at 6 mph and had maximum sustained winds of 60 mph.

Winds must reach at least 74 mph for a storm to be considered a hurricane.

There was a tropical storm warning in effect from the Bay/Gulf County line in Florida west to Morgan City, La., metropolitan New Orleans and Lake Pontchartrain. A tropical storm watch was in place from Morgan City, La., west to Cameron, La., and Lake Maurepas. This marked no change from the 4 p.m. CDT update.

“Little change is strength is expected tonight, and gradual weakening is forecast Wednesday through Friday,” the NHC said.

Bertha is expected to produce total rainfall amounts of 2 to 4 inches with isolated higher totals through Thursday along the central Gulf Coast from western Florida into southern Louisiana. This could produce isolated flash flooding, especially in urban areas, the NHC said.

Surf conditions caused by Bertha will continue spreading west along the northern Gulf Coast, with swells likely to cause life-threatening surf and rip current conditions.

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Thick, hazardous wildfire smoke spreads from Great Lakes to East Coast

July 16 (UPI) — Thick smoke from Canadian wildfires poured into northeastern quarter of the United States on Thursday after similarly darkening skies across and prompting health warnings across much of the Great Lakes region.

Dangerous levels of smoke were noted across Canada and the northeastern and midwestern United States, sparking memories of the historically severe wildfire smoke outbreak in 2023.

Entire states including New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Delaware, Massachusetts, Michigan, New Hampshire, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island and Wisconsin were under air quality alerts.

By early Thursday, Minneapolis, Duluth, Minn., and Detroit were among the most heavily impacted areas of the country.

Very heavy smoke from large wildfires in northern Minnesota and northwestern Ontario spread over Minnesota from late Wednesday into Thursday morning, the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency reported.

Hourly observations of smoke concentrations broke records for the Twin Cities on both days, the agency said.

In Detroit, businesses and attractions closed due to poor air quality.

A planned concert by rocker John Mellencamp at Pine Knob Music Theatre in Clarkston, Mich., was canceled while some workers inside Ford Motor‘s Michigan Assembly plant in Wayne, Mich., were hospitalized amid the smoky haze and intense heat, the Detroit Free Press reported.

Michigan’s statewide air quality alert was extended through Friday before cooler weather was expected to move the smoky pall out of the Great Lakes region.

In Chicago, the city closed all of its public beaches and outdoor pools, while Milwaukee recorded the worst air quality in its history — a record-breaking Air Quality Index measured at over 600, according to the Milwaukee Journal.

Further east, smoke from the Canadian wildfires enveloped New York City, prompting Mayor Zohran Mamdani to urge residents to “take precautions to stay cool and out of harm’s way” while dealing with both the smoke and high temperatures.

“In our city, we pride ourselves on being resilient,” the mayor told reporters early Thursday. “Today is not a day to say, ‘In spite of the air quality, I’m going to do everything I was going to do yesterday.’ This is very serious. We are reaching into a level of air quality that is dangerous for every single New Yorker.”

Smoke from fires in Northern California lowers visability of the Bay Bridge and San Francico as viewed from Yerba Buena Island on October 2. Photo by Terry Schmitt/UPI | License Photo

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Coast Guard to end San Francisco Bay search for 3 at sunset

July 15 (UPI) — A search for three people missing in San Francisco Bay after their cabin cruiser sank a day earlier will end when the sun sets on Wednesday, the U.S. Coast Guard said.

Eleven boats and four aircraft have been searching hundreds of miles of water for those reported missing after a cabin cruiser capsized off the coast of Alcatraz on Tuesday afternoon.

Officials initially said 19 people were aboard the 49-foot, three-level Volare cabin cruiser and that 17 people had been rescued from the water, leaving two people unaccounted for. One person rescued was later pronounced dead. A dog on board also died. But officials have since said 20 people were on the craft and that three were missing.

Capt. Jarod Toczko, sector commander of Coast Guard Sector San Francisco, announced the deadline for the search during a 2 p.m. press conference, explaining that none of the missing had been found, despite a search of more than 950 square nautical miles and more than 1,700 miles of track line.

“We have completely saturated the search area,” he said.

“As I look at the extensive search effort we have put forth to this point, I look at the probability of success of locating a survivor within the search area given everything we’ve put forth and all the environmental conditions, my intention is to suspend active search operations at sunset this evening.”

He said the families have been notified and crews will continue to search until the sun sets.

Dean Crispen, chief of the San Francisco Fire Department, said that three survivors who were transported to the hospital have been released and were “doing okay.”

The person who died was identified Wednesday by the San Francisco Office of the Chief Medical Examiner as 79-year-old Clifford Joseph Boisa of Sutter County.

Authorities were notified at 3:37 p.m. PDT about a boat in distress in the San Francisco Bay. Witnesses had incorrectly identified steam emanating from the boat as smoke, leading initial reports to indicate a fire was on board. Civilians boaters were first to arrive on the scene and are being hailed for saving lives.

The cause of the capsizing is under investigation, but Toczko told reporters that survivors and those who responded to the scene said that the boat was hit by a wave that caused it to list heavily, lose its stability and roll over.

Some occupants were thrown into the water, Toczko said, adding that there is a “high possibility” that others had been trapped inside the vessel.

Crispen had said during a Tuesday press conference that all aboard the vessel were adults, mostly family members and close friends who were participating in “some kind of memorial service.”

San Francisco Mayor Daniel Lurie said that while he laments the tragedy, he is “incredibly proud of the all hands-on-deck effort.”

“From Marin to Oakland to San Francisco to the good Samaritans, it was truly all hands-on-deck effort to save 16 people,” he said. “And my heart goes out to the families of the victims.”

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Denmark’s ‘Cold Hawaii’: the artfully cool surf zone on the Jutland coast | Denmark holidays

The North Sea wind is buffeting my body and face, shaking me awake after a six-hour journey from Copenhagen on buses and trains to this rugged stretch of the Danish coast. From my high vantage point on the grassy dunes, overlooking what feels like an endless sea, there is hardly another soul to be seen, save for the specks of a few surfers who are trying their luck on the crashing waves.

Surfers, windsurfers and paddleboarders flock to this stretch of north-west Jutland, which is playfully known as “Cold Hawaii”. The phrase was coined in the 1990s by the international surfing community, and popularised by world champion windsurfer Josh Stone, to describe this laid-back shoreline and its 31 official surf spots running for around 30 miles (50km) from a little north of the industrial harbour of Hanstholm down to the sandy beaches of Agger.

Unlike tropical Hawaii, however, the European version is lined with the heathlands, dunes and forest of the Thy national park. The weather is also brisker – you’d be loath to spend long in the water here without a wetsuit to keep you warm.

The wild beauty of the coastline feels markedly different to the largely agricultural landscape I have come to know in the several years I’ve lived in Denmark. Cold Hawaii has been recommended to me countless times as somewhere a little more under the radar than the popular resorts on the north coast of Zealand, or Skagen on the northern tip of Jutland. It’s not easy to reach Thy by public transport and, once here, the patchy local bus service makes it far easier to explore by car. For that reason, Cold Hawaii has remained something of a local secret, and there’s a strong sense of community here even in winter, when all the summer houses sit empty.

The dunes of Thy national park. Photograph: Stephen J Taylor/Getty Images

On a sun-drenched afternoon in early spring, with the tourist season yet to begin, the surf schools and ice-cream shops are still quiet. Driving into Klitmøller – the unofficial centre of Cold Hawaii, which hosts an annual international surfing competition – there are hints of how the area has transformed into a surfers’ paradise over recent decades. As well as surf shops and schools, there’s a wine bar, a spa and a co-working space on the main street. Several artists are based in the area, too, including the internationally renowned Jeppe Hein.

It’s a similar story in the nearby seaside town of Vorupør, where I’m staying at the Vorupør Badehotel. It is an expansion of the original Vø Surfshop, opened by Peter Joseph Jensen and Sigrid Bruun Jakobsen in 2011; another couple joined them to open the hotel in 2023. My bubblegum-pink room is nestled in the eaves with huge windows looking out to sea and a freestanding tub (a luxury for a Copenhagener like me). In cosy Danish fashion, there’s a shoes-off-at-the-door policy.

Standing on Vorupør beach between anchored fishing boats, I’m joined by families enjoying strolls in the blustery wind and dappled sunshine – it’s that time of the year when Denmark emerges from the winter gloom and everyone rushes to be outside as much as possible. Not so long ago, Vorupør was a quiet fishing village, but in recent years it has become increasingly popular with Danish, German and Belgian tourists, giving rise to a flurry of new places to stay, restaurants and boutiques.

One notable addition, not far down the coast, is the restaurant Tri. The founder and head chef, Nicolas Min Jørgensen, earned a Michelin star just a year after opening in 2022, winning acclaim for a hyperlocal approach to produce and menu-planning. The flavours of the sea, Thy national park and the nearby Limfjord, which cuts through northern Denmark, are evident in the mussel broth and seaweed, smoked roe butter and magnolia flowers that feature on the menu.

Vorupør Badehotel, located on the waterfront

During dinner, Jørgensen waves to fisher René, who harvested the first shrimps of the season from the Limfjord that morning, and points out farmer Niels, who is eating in the restaurant and enjoying his own berries.

The next day, I venture to SMK Thy, the new, highly acclaimed outpost of the National Gallery of Denmark (Statens Museum for Kunst), which opened in the village of Doverodde last year. From Vorupør, it’s a 30-minute drive inland to the banks of the Limfjord, passing the dune plantations of Thy national park.

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A 42-metre former grain silo from the 1960s towers over the collection of warehouses that now host exhibitions such as Living Landscapes (until 18 October) featuring artists from Claude Lorrain to Edvard Munch and rising Danish stars such as Rasmus Myrup. Inside, a winding steel staircase traverses three floors and rewards visitors with remarkable views over the Limfjord. There’s also a “Nature Village” with pavilions serving as bases for outdoor education, exploring nature and kayaking.

It’s hard to figure how the National Gallery ended up in this sleepy part of Jutland, but it is already proving popular with people who might otherwise feel disconnected from the collection in the Danish capital on the other side of the country.

The SMK Thy gallery, a new Jutland outpost of Denmark’s National Gallery. Photograph: Martin Hoffman

Across the Limfjord is another notable destination for culture lovers – Kunsthal Thy gallery was set up in 2023 by artist Rasmus Søndergaard Johannsen in a barn on the medieval manor house estate of Boddum Bisgaard. Its programme features a roster of international and Danish avant garde artists, working in sculpture, video and installations that feel unexpected in this quiet corner of Denmark, and quite different from SMK Thy’s efforts over the water to share its collection with a regional audience.

And it’s that sense of the unexpected that lies at the heart of the region’s growing appeal. It’s why outdoor adventurers may be willing to swap the classic Atlantic surf hubs of Biarritz in France or Ericeira in Portugal for a northern outpost dubbed Cold Hawaii. That and a certain understated sense of Scandinavian style, of course.

The trip was supported by Visit Denmark and Visit Nordvestkysten. Doubles at the Vorupør Badehotel start at £178 B&B. Several trains depart in the morning from Copenhagen central station to Sjørring in the Thy district, which connects to local buses run by Nordjyllands Trafikselskab. A ticket from the train company DSB covers transport from Copenhagen to Vorupør, including two trains and a bus, from 516 krone (around £60)

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Californians rallied to save the coast 50 years ago. Trump is spoiling the celebration

A guy who owns a beach resort on the coast of Florida, where hundreds of miles of overdeveloped shores are threatened by increasingly severe storms driven by global warming, is trying to tell Californians how best to manage our coast.

Guess who.

It’s not that we needed the help. If there’s any thought to adding an eighth wonder of the world to the current lineup of seven, I’d nominate the 1,100-mile treasure that kisses Oregon on one end and Mexico on the other. And it’s not by accident that coastal habitats are aggressively protected and most of the shoreline is free of mega resorts and architectural clutter.

A half century ago, Californians rose up against the threat of over-development. By the will of the people, the coast was enshrined in state law as a precious public asset accessible to the many, not a private playground fenced off for the few.

This year marks the 50th anniversary of the Coastal Act, and just as we begin the party, President Trump and his minions are scheming to pump some crude oil into the punch bowl.

And here’s how:

Going back to the 1970s, under the Coastal Zone Management Act, California has gotten high marks from the feds for the way in which its coastal regulatory agencies work with D.C. to manage federal projects. But now the state is under attack, which could mean that millions in federal dollars will be clawed back and the state’s voice muted.

So what horrible sins have we committed?

Sit down and take a deep breath.

We’re being accused of “environmental extremism.”

It’s just been far too many years of paying attention to water quality and vehicle and industrial emissions and all the rest. Imagine how that comes across to a president who wouldn’t admit to climate change if his putter melted in his hands or Mar-a-Lago became a swim-up hotel.

As penance for our crimes, U.S. Commerce Secretary Howard Lutnick (the one who labeled us environmental extremists) ordered the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, or NOAA, to conduct “a full, formal review” of the state’s coastal management program.

“California has repeatedly and unfoundedly obstructed spaceport development,” Lutnick declared, referencing a dispute over how many rockets Elon Musk’s Space X can launch from the U.S. military’s Vandenberg base. (Per the California Coastal Commission, many of the launches are for private interests rather than military purposes, and even the federal government has noted that the thunderous sonic booms take a toll on sea life and humans.)

We’re also allegedly blind to basic economics and the preferences of the Trump administration when it comes to “offshore oil production, maintenance of pipelines and desalination.” And we need to fall into line in “removing regulatory barriers that hinder U.S. technological and economic leadership while responsibly stewarding coastal resources.”

Where to begin?

I thought California had the world’s fourth-largest economy, with technology as a primary driver. In fact, it’s just been reported that we drew 10 times more venture capital than any other state this year, with AI leading the way. If one or two other states matched our output, imagine the boasting Trump could do, legitimately, about the economy.

And while the administration seems intent on tapping more offshore oil, it’s toppling the nation’s offshore wind projects while the planet suffers through blistering, deadly heat waves directly related to greenhouse gas emissions from the burning of fossil fuels.

If the president’s blowtorch buddies want to call us “environmental extremists” for not burying our heads in the sand, it’s a badge of honor.

And another thing.

If Trump is so intent on keeping the world’s oil supply flowing, maybe he shouldn’t have bungled his way into a senseless war that has handed Iran the keys to the global gas pump, spiking prices for everyone.

By the way, it’s not as if the primary coastal regulatory agency in the state — the California Coastal Commission — has said nothing but “no” over the years to oil projects and desalination plants.

“When you look at the Coastal Act, it doesn’t prohibit offshore oil and gas production and we approved a lot of it,” said Susan Hansch, who retired from a top administrative position in 2021 after 47 years at the Coastal Commission. “It just has to be done correctly.”

The commission has also approved multiple desalination plants, but four years ago rejected one proposed for Huntington Beach, despite support for it from Gov. Gavin Newsom. I thought the rejection was the right call, because the proposal struck me as a private boondoggle, with no designated customer for the water and a slurry of environmental hazards.

A Falcon 9 rocket is launched from Vandenberg Space Force Base on Jan. 25.

A Falcon 9 rocket is launched from Vandenberg Space Force Base on Jan. 25.

(2nd Lt. Andrew Taller / U.S. Space Force)

Not that the Coastal Commission has been infallible over the years. It has worked many a critic into a lather, with complaints that the agency has stood in the way of housing development during the state’s mounting shortage, and that its permitting process is the equivalent of a years-long root canal.

Former Gov. Jerry Brown, who signed the Coastal Act into law in 1976, once called the commissioners “bureaucratic thugs.”

And Trump has feuded with the agency over, among other things, a 70-foot-tall flagpole erected on his Rancho Palos Verdes golf course without a permit. Last year, Trump envoy Ric Grenell said the Coastal Commission was a “disaster” and must “absolutely be defunded,” calling commissioners unelected and “crazy woke left.”

Getting rid of the commission, he said, “is going to make California better.”

I don’t think so.

Ten years ago, I had the privilege of traveling the length of the state and meeting some of the heroes of the coast going back to the 1960s.

They were there when the devastating Santa Barbara oil spill blackened beaches, turned the shoreline into a wildlife graveyard, and galvanized grassroots defense of the coast.

When plans by PG&E to build a nuclear power plant at heavenly Bodega Head triggered an uprising.

When a massive Sonoma Coast residential development pitch sparked fears that beach access would be lost.

In 1972, ordinary Californians circulated petitions, knocked on doors, and rode bicycles down the coast, rallying support for Proposition 20, which aimed to regulate coastal development. It passed despite a massive opposition campaign from corporate, industrial and real estate interests.

That victory led, four years later, to the Coastal Act and creation of the Coastal Commission, whose job was to balance sensible development, habitat protection and conservation, and equitable public access.

Richard Charter, an Ocean Foundation senior fellow, told me in Bodega a decade ago that the California coast is “a public miracle” that was protected by ordinary people who saw it as “a global treasure.”

The Coastal Act has led to the creation of 2,500 public beach access points in the state, and its greatest achievements include wetlands not plowed, habitats not destroyed, and the preservation of countless mesmerizing vistas where land meets sea and California leaves you in speechless, grateful awe.

At Tuesday’s Coastal Commission meeting, Jennifer Savage of the Surfrider Foundation stepped to the microphone and said to commissioners:

“Surfrider sees this federal review as a politically motivated attempt to strip California of the coastal protections that our communities and our marine ecosystems depend on, and Surfrider stands with you, and we will fight this every step of the way.”

If you’d like to join that fight, you can speak in person or remotely when NOAA hosts public hearings Aug. 10-12 in Santa Monica. You can find more details on the Surfrider Foundation website.

One of the early leaders of the Coastal Commission, the late Peter Douglas, anticipated these trials and uttered a phrase I’ve repeated many times over the years. In the year of the 50th anniversary of the Coastal Act, it’s worth repeating once more, and you should think of it as a a clarion call:

“The coast is never saved,” Douglas said. “It’s always being saved.”

steve.lopez@latimes.com

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Tanker on fire off coast of Oman after being hit by projectile | US-Israel war on Iran News

DEVELOPING STORY,

Iran’s TV claims the tanker ignored warnings, but no direct responsibility for the attack has been declared.

A tanker travelling off the coast of Oman in the Strait of Hormuz has caught fire after being struck by a projectile, according to the United Kingdom’s military.

The attack early on Tuesday was the latest targeting a vessel moving through the Gulf’s critical waterway, through which a fifth of the world’s oil and natural gas passed before the US-Israel war on Iran began in late February.

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Iranian television said the liquefied natural gas tanker came under attack after ignoring warnings, but Tehran did not directly claim the assault.

Tehran has repeatedly declared that only its approved route through the Strait of Hormuz is safe, and it is suspected of attacking other ships that have used another route close to the Omani shore.

The UK Maritime Trade Operations (UKMTO) centre said the tanker had been hit near Limah, Oman, in the strait. The projectile hit the port side of the vessel while it was trying to travel south out of the strait towards the Gulf of Oman, the UKMTO said.

Talks between Iran and the United States on a permanent end to the war appear to be on hold until after the burial of Iran’s former Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, who was killed at the beginning of the US-Israel war on Iran on February 28.

Authorities flew Khamenei’s body to the Shia seminary city of Qom overnight, where mourners honoured him on Tuesday.

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I toured the Amalfi coast and found less crowded restaurants and world-famous beaches

LEMONADE, lemon beer, lemon cocktails, lemon tea, lemon cakes and, of course, that dangerously tasty liqueur, limoncello.

There is no escaping lemons on Italy’s Amalfi Coast.

The wonderful  Amalfi coast is like heaven Credit: Getty – Contributor
The elegant town of Ravello with its cobbled streets lined with pottery and linen shops leading off the main square Credit: Getty

They adorn tea towels, shirts, skirts, dresses, trousers, and bags galore.

Our base on Travelsphere’s eight-day tour of the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Capri was the charming, laid-back seaside village of Minori, at the excellent family-run 4* Hotel Villa Romana.

Just three miles and a glorious 15- minute boat ride from Amalfi itself, Minori is quieter and classier, with stylish and affordable restaurants and bars.

Surprisingly for a village of its size, Minori has an 18th-century neoclassical domed cathedral. Surrounded by lemon groves, of course.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands


SANDS GREAT

New £20m English beach hotel that’s ‘like the Amalfi Coast’ to open next month

One of my highlights was walking the Path of Lemons, which connects Minori to the larger neighbouring village of Maiori.

The trek takes around 90 minutes, with an initial climb up several hundred steps and a similar descent.

But the view of the village and sea is spectacular and worth every straining leg sinew.

The beauty of our schedule is that there is still plenty of free time for you to pursue your own holiday agenda.

You’ll get the chance to indulge at Minori’s sumptuous Sal De Riso patisserie or watch the famed limoncello being made at the Liquorificio Mansi Carlo.

Alternatively, stop by at one of Minori’s beachside bars and watch the tide roll in.

But the best place to see the Amalfi Coast is from the sea and the area is served by efficient, reasonably-priced ferry operators.

It is only from the clear blue waters that you fully appreciate the stunning coastline and its tumble-down towns with pastel-coloured houses perched precariously atop majestic cliffs.

Our first trip was to the historic town of Amalfi itself, dramatically set below those same cliffs.

On arrival at Amalfi, we had the freedom to see the town for ourselves.

The main square and its streets were packed with sightseers.

But climb a few steps up one of the alleyways and you will find peace and quiet and cheaper restaurants.

Amalfi Town and beach Credit: Getty
The undoubted gem of the tour was our visit to Pompeii, destroyed when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79AD

A lunch of cured meats and seafood, in cool stone surroundings behind a church, cost £21.50 a head with drinks.

By the time we had finished, the crowds had thinned out at Amalfi’s magnificent medieval cathedral, which holds the remains of St Andrew.

But there was no escaping the crowds at Capri, a gorgeous 90-minute boat trip from Minori.

The island has been home to the international jet set for decades and it’s not difficult to see why.

A walk down to the gardens of Capri Town was followed by a look, from outside anyway, at the amazing designer boutique shops.

A glass of fresh orange and lemon juice from a stall was a cheaper alternative to buying a designer Patek Philippe watch — and then it was time to get our minibus to Anacapri.

This village, with views of the Bay of Naples, is much quieter and more affordable than Capri Town.

We got the chairlift up to the highest point of the island, almost 1,800ft above sea level with a view to die for.

There are optional tour trips to the lively lemon-filled town of Sorrento and the gorgeous cliffside village of Positano.

Or you could take the 45-minute ferry from Minori to Salerno, a bustling coastal city where we had a superb fish lunch at Mama Rosa.

The undoubted gem of the tour was our visit to Pompeii, destroyed when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79AD.

The last agonies of victims frozen in time when they suffocated from poison gases are captured in plaster moulds created from their remains.

Sun man Mike Sullivan with a cool lemonade Credit: Supplied
Walking through stunning lemon orchards Credit: Getty

It is a powerful experience.

And yet the humanity of this once prosperous and thriving coastal Roman city, discovered in 1748, shines through from the haunting remains.

The municipal buildings, public baths, grand villas, lead pipe water system and amphitheatres paint a picture of an advanced society on which much of our own world today is based.

Our last scheduled trip was to the gorgeous medieval mountainside village of Ravello, with its cobbled streets lined with pottery and linen shops leading off the main square and 11th-century cathedral.

The journey up to the 1,200ft-high village involves navigating hairpin bends with sheer drops below.

It was not a drive I would have relished but in the expert hands of our driver I felt safer than being on the M25.

A delicious lunch followed at the Il Rifugio family-run restaurant in Tramonti, a 15-minute drive from Ravello up into the Lattari “Milk” Mountains — so-named because of the goats which graze there.

After taking in the spectacular view of the sea, and sampling local wines, we were then driven to a small local vineyard to see how it was produced.

All too soon it was time for the journey home from Naples Airport, with its abundance of lemon gifts and souvenirs.

Fortunately, you don’t get a hangover from vitamin C.

GO: AMALFI COAST

GETTING / STAYING THERE: Travelsphere’s eight-day escorted tour of the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Capri starts in Naples and visits Amalfi, Capri, Minori, Sorrento, Pompeii, Positano, Ravello and the Amalfi Hills.

Seven nights is from £1,699pp, including return flights from London, overseas transfers, seven nights’ half-board in a 4* hotel, select meals and a welcome drink as well as Travelsphere holiday director and specialist local guide.

See travelsphere.co.uk.

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Ivory Coast coach Fae saddened by Schweinsteiger’s ‘African football’ jab | World Cup 2026

Former German player’s comments that ‘African football’ is ‘a bit unorthodox sometimes, a bit wild’ sparked controversy.

Even in one of the most joyous moments in his country’s footballing history, Ivory Coast manager Emerse Fae found himself managing sadness over the remarks of a former role model that have sparked debate about potential racist connotations.

Nicolas Pepe’s brace guided the Ivory Coast to a 2-0 win over Curacao and took his nation to their first-ever World Cup knockout phase on Thursday.

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But afterwards, Fae was asked to respond to analysis given by former German midfielder Bastian Schweinsteiger on German public TV ahead of Germany’s 2-1 win over the Ivorians in both teams’ second Group E match in Toronto.

Here is how DW.com characterised what Schweinsteiger said: “Ahead of the Group E clash in Toronto, which Germany won 2-1, Schweinsteiger said in his role as a pundit for German public broadcaster ARD that the Ivorians played ‘African football’, which he characterised as ‘a bit unorthodox sometimes, a bit wild, not quite as tactical.’”

In his response, Fae noted how he once admired the former Bayern Munich man so much that he sometimes was called “Bastian” by his friends.

“I think it’s sad,” said the 42-year-old Fae, who is only several months older than the 41-year-old Schweinsteiger. “He was a very, very good player; a great player.

“I’ve always loved him, personally. As a midfielder, I’ve always liked the way he played, the way he understood football. … So when I heard his comments, I was disappointed, disappointed in the man.

“Because when you know football the way he knows it, it’s odd that you would speak that way, which we could call racist if we were calling a spade a spade, but that’s the way it is.”

Schweinsteiger played parts of 13 seasons for Bayern Munich, helping the German club giants win eight league titles and one UEFA Champions League crown. Internationally, he was a key contributor to Germany’s 2014 World Cup-winning squad.

He has not publicly commented on the remarks in the days since.

On Thursday, Fae’s side got the better of one of the game’s most famous managers, the 78-year-old Dick Advocaat, who, in guiding Curacao, was managing in his third World Cup.

Fae’s group also earned a 1-0 victory to open the tournament against Ecuador, a team that came into this World Cup unbeaten in 19 matches and hailed for its defensive solidity.

“I can’t change the way he talks,” Fae said of Schweinsteiger.

“But all I can do is show on the pitch that Africa is not just the physical game. We are very technical as well, very tactical. And all I can hope is that this was just a clumsy statement, that it wasn’t particularly reflective of what’s in his mind.”

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Four Coast Guard members injured in Alaska helicopter crash

A Coast Guard MH-60 Jayhawk helicopter, like the one seen here, crashed in Alaska on Monday with four people on board. File Photo by Petty Officer 3rd Class Connie Terrell/U.S. Coast Guard/UPI

June 23 (UPI) — All four Coast Guard members aboard a helicopter that crashed in Alaska sustained only minor injuries, the maritime law enforcement agency said.

The Coast Guard MH-60 Jayhawk helicopter crashed Monday morning during a training flight near Harbor Mountain, Sitka, Alaska, the Coast Guard said in a statement.

The first reports of the crash were received at the Arctic District command center shortly after 10 a.m. local time, officials said.

Deployed responders reached the aircraft at about 11 a.m. local time, the Coast Guard said, and were able to transport the helicopter’s four occupants to Mt. Edgecumbe Medical Center.

U.S. Coast Guard Arctic later Monday said that the four Coast Guard members involved in the crash sustained only minor injuries.

“We are incredibly relieved our crew members survived with only minor injuries,” Rear Adm. Bob Little, commander of the Coast Guard’s Arctic District, said in a statement.

“We are grateful for the swift response by the Sitka Fire and Rescue, who assisted us during this critical time.”

In response to the crash, Coast Guard Air Station Kodiak will be repositioning a helicopter and crews to Coast Guard Air Station Sitka to maintain operational readiness in the Southeastern Alaska region, officials said.

The crash is under investigation.

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Undav injury-time goal sees Germany beat Ivory Coast to top World Cup group | World Cup 2026 News

Germany come from behind to beat Ivory Coast 2-1 in Group E, sealing FIFA World Cup 2026 knockout place.

Deniz Undav scored two goals off the bench as Germany pulled off a thrilling comeback to beat Ivory Coast 2-1 in their ⁠World Cup Group E match, securing their place in the knockout stage for the first time since they won the title in 2014.

After having two goals disallowed in the first half on Saturday, Germany did not lose ⁠focus and used intricate passing to find their way, while the West Africans produced their dynamic brand of attacking football in a wild Group E clash.

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Undav levelled the score with a controlled, volleyed finish in the 68th minute and struck again when he received a pass on the turn, before swivelling and firing home a ball that Yahia ‌Fofana had no chance at stopping.

The versatile striker now has nine goals in his last eight matches.

Simon Adingra had a late chance for Ivory Coast, but he failed to get a shot off in the area before Germany charged back down the field and Fofana blocked a low shot from Nathaniel Brown.

Ivory Coast had opened the scoring in the first half when Franck Kessie slotted home a rebound off a shot by Amad Diallo on a play created when Yan Diomande charged down the left side and sent in ⁠a cross.

With more than 100,000 people of German ancestry living in Toronto, Julian Nagelsmann’s ⁠men enjoyed plenty of support but were a frustrated group at the interval with nothing to show for their eight attempts on goal.

Germany looked to have opened the scoring when midfielder Aleksandar Pavlovic rose to meet a short corner in the 25th minute but was ⁠deemed to have fouled Fofana in the process.

The ruling left Pavlovic with his hands atop his head in disbelief while Fofana received some attention after the collision, and ⁠the partisan German crowd made their disdain for the referee’s decision ⁠known.

Shortly after, it was Ivory Coast who finally broke through with Kessie’s goal. The West Africans have scored in their last seven matches at the tournament – the longest such sequence on the global stage in their history.

Germany once again put the ball in the back of the ‌net, but their celebrations were cut short as the referee determined that Jamal Musiala had fouled Odilon Kossounou in the buildup.

Germany top Group E with six points and are through to the last 32, while Ivory Coast remain ‌on three after two matches. Ecuador and Curacao meet in Kansas City later on Saturday.

Germany will close out the group stage against Ecuador on Thursday in New Jersey, while Ivory Coast face Curacao in Philadelphia.

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Salerno: the charming and affordable gateway to Italy’s Amalfi coast | Amalfi coast holidays

The ferry from Salerno to Amalfi town was set to take about 35 minutes, and we were debating whether to risk the windswept top deck, fearful our packed lunches might fly into the Tyrrhenian Sea. (My father and I were taking a pragmatic approach on our Italian holiday, opting for light midday meals to save space for the primo and secondo courses at dinner, and ample lemony desserts.)

As our ferry sped across glittering water, we admired the views as the Amalfi coast unfolded, incandescent with charm. But we could also see the crawling traffic on the narrow roads that cling to the cliffs. That could have been us, up there in one of those toy-sized rental cars, squeezed between a tourist coach and a fed-up local leaning on their horn. Thankfully, we were on a boat instead, sea breeze in hair and coffee in hand.

Illustration: Guardian Graphics

The Amalfi coast has a reputation that draws tourists from all over the world. It seems everybody wants to see this string of sorbet-coloured towns, to wander the narrow streets where houses climb the hills like stacked blocks, and to sip limoncello while gazing out across the impossibly bright, blue waters. But as eager as I had been to experience these famous graces, the idea of white-knuckling it on hairpin turns in a Fiat 500, inches from certain ruin, didn’t seem like my idea of fun. That’s when an Italian friend gave me some priceless advice: stay in Salerno – it’s a nice town with good restaurants, and you can do all your excursions via public transport from there.

Salerno is tucked just under the Sorrentine peninsula and about half an hour south of Naples on the fast train. It’s an ideal base for jumping on trains to inland attractions such as Pompeii and Paestum, but also for catching ferries to every destination along the Amalfi coast, as well as Capri and Sicily. What’s more, Salerno is a more affordable base than the honeypot towns of Positano or Ravello, where accommodation and restaurant prices are around double what you’d pay here.

Ornately decorated streets in Vietri Sul Mare. Photograph: Sean Pavone/Getty Images

Originally a Roman colony, Salerno was reshaped by the Normans in the 11th century. It’s a pleasant and relaxed town to wander, its wide and luxurious promenade dotted with palm trees, benches and street performers. What it lacks in Amalfi glamour, it makes up for with a more authentic tableau of local Italian life. (After a day of eating overpriced ice-cream from hollowed-out Amalfi lemons, we found Salerno’s lack of performance refreshing.)

Dad and I got a holiday rental on the edge of the historic centre, near Salerno Cathedral, which houses the relics of Saint Matthew. We wandered in one morning and were surprised to find that although the duomo is on the modest side, the crypt is a real showstopper, with intricate marble details from top to bottom. The town is also home to the Schola Medica Salernitana, which dates back to the 9th century and was the pre-eminent source of medical knowledge in its heyday, before closing in 1811. Today, the adjacent Garden of Minerva botanical terrace is the city’s most picturesque attraction. Its organising principle is the four humours of man (the Ancient Greeks theorised that our temperament and health are dictated by a balance of blood, phlegm, black bile and yellow bile). That’s certainly something to think about while wandering the gardens, where the plants are labelled according to which “mood” they affect.

But Salerno is all about the food for me, most notably the glistening, black squid ink pasta dish I ate at La Botte Pazza and still salivate over months later. The menu, scribbled on a tiled wall, described the dish simply as spaghetti mare. The wine came out of taps in the wall, and the buzzy atmosphere only got louder as the evening progressed. The bonhomie was all the more welcome after spending the day wandering among the ghosts of Pompeii (40 minutes up the coast by train), which was buried in ash when Mount Vesuvius erupted nearly 2,000 years ago.

Ihe intricate marble detail of the crypt at Salerno Cathedral. Photograph: Francis Canker/Getty Images

Another worthwhile rail excursion is to Vietri sul Mare – the first town in the string of pearls that make up the Amalfi coast, and the only one that can be reached by train. We hopped on an eight-minute service out of Salerno for a wander through the town famous for its colourful ceramics, but also because I wanted to swim – Salerno’s seafront has a nice promenade, but beach lovers are left wanting.

You can swim in Amalfi town too, but the beach in this more famous spot was already getting busy when we visited in late March. As much as I enjoyed Amalfi, I felt relieved to be there early in the season – its narrow streets weren’t built for crowds.

Vietri sul Mare is sleepy in comparison, and I was thrilled to find a peaceful stretch of sand, where I changed quickly under the arches before running in for a bracing dip in the turquoise water.

For Dad, who takes a dim view of anyone who goes in the sea in March, Paestum was more of a highlight. After speeding south for about half an hour, the train dropped us off in the middle of nowhere, by a gravel road that promised a 10-minute walk to the ruins of the once-great Greek city. We were in our element now – at Paestum, visitors can wander about freely as the approximately 27-hectare (66 acre) site unfolds, with the occasional noticeboard sharing a story of what used to be here, but mostly leaving it to your imagination.

Paestum’s crown jewels are the three temples looming large and golden in the landscape; they are about 2,500 years old yet very well preserved. Dad was pleased to find a working model of Archimedes’ screw, an ancient hydraulic tool for elevating water, while I was tickled by the Tomb of the Diver, with its fresco of a gentleman diving into a pool, starkers.

The 2,500-year-old Temple of Athena at Paestum. Photograph: Nick Brundle/Getty Images

Osteria Canali gave us our last meal in Salerno, and again we had the pleasure of being surrounded by local people in an inviting neighbourhood taverna. The regional menu was rich with aubergine and mozzarella, and then came the main course of baccalà – a piece of white fish with figs, wrapped in paper and simmering in its own juices. More creamy Amalfi lemon desserts to finish, of course, and we figured we should try the limoncello as well – when south of Rome, right? But as much as I like a citrus tang, this was finally too much lemon for me.

Choosing Salerno as our base opened up a different side of the Amalfi coast, allowing us to come and go by boat and train without the stress of traffic jams and impossible parking situations. We only missed a train once, but another came along half an hour later, and while we waited there was nothing to worry about except where to go for ice-cream.

Intercity trains run from Naples Central to Salerno and take about 35 minutes (€9.50). Regional trains from Salerno central take about 40 minutes to Pompeii (€2.80); 30 minutes to Paestum (€3.40); and eight minutes to Vietri sul Mare (€1.40). Timetables at trenitalia.com. Several ferry companies run year-round services from Salerno to the towns along the Amalfi coast. The Travelmar passenger ferry sails direct to Amalfi town from Salerno’s Concordia terminal (35 minutes, €26 return). Plan your journey with FerryHopper

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Ivory Coast beats Ecuador 1-0 at FIFA World Cup with Amad Diallo goal | World Cup 2026

Ecuador looked strong before Diallo broke through in the 90th minute with a clinical left-footed shot to seal the win.

Amad Diallo scored in the 90th minute to lift Ivory Coast to a 1-0 victory over Ecuador in their first World Cup appearance in a dozen years.

The teams combined to hit the crossbar three times before the Manchester United winger broke the deadlock to secure three points for his team at the Philadelphia Stadium on Sunday.

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Diallo – who entered as a substitute in the 56th minute – broke through with a left-footed shot from just inside the penalty area that beat diving goalkeeper Hernan Galindez. Wilfried Singo set up the goal with a strong run down the right side.

Making their fourth appearance in the World Cup and the first since 2014, Ivory Coast took a big step towards reaching the knockout stage for the first time.

Elye Wahi hit the crossbar in the 52nd minute for Ivory Coast, after Ecuador’s John Yeboah and Nilson Angulo did the same in the opening half.

Ecuador, making their fifth World Cup appearance and looking to reach the knockout round for the second time, were playing a virtual home game at the stadium, otherwise known as the Lincoln Financial Field, with most of the capacity crowd of 68,274 wearing the yellow shirts of La Tri.

Ecuador looked strong before Diallo’s goal. Their best chance after halftime came in the 68th minute on Gonzalo Plata’s hard shot from about 25 yards out, which was parried away by goalkeeper Yahia Fofana.

Ivory Coast were bolstered by the forward play of Yan Diomande as the Leipzig attacker created several scoring chances, particularly down the right side. That included Wahi’s near-goal on a flick following Diomande’s hard cross.

Ivory Coast, who did not concede a goal while going 8-0-2 in 10 qualifying matches, will next face four-time World Cup champions Germany, who defeated Curacao 7-1 earlier on Sunday in Group E.

Ecuador will meet Curacao. Both matches will be played June 20 .

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Taiwan Condemns China Coast Guard Patrols Near East

Taiwan has accused China of carrying out a “provocative act” after Chinese Coast Guard vessels conducted patrols in waters east of the island. The operation followed announcements by Japan and the Philippines that they would begin formal talks on maritime boundary delimitation, a move Beijing views as involving waters linked to Taiwan.

Chinese state media described the deployment as a special maritime law-enforcement operation. Taiwan responded by dispatching Coast Guard vessels, which reportedly warned the Chinese ships away from restricted waters. Defence Minister Wellington Koo characterized the patrols as both a challenge to Taiwan’s sovereignty and an example of “cognitive warfare” aimed at reshaping perceptions of territorial control.

The incident comes amid sustained Chinese military activity around Taiwan, including frequent air and naval operations. Taiwan is also monitoring the movements of the Chinese aircraft carrier Liaoning, which is operating in the Western Pacific near waters east of the Philippines.

Why It Matters

The patrols represent more than a routine maritime operation. They signal China’s growing willingness to extend its presence beyond the Taiwan Strait and into areas east of Taiwan that have traditionally been viewed as strategically important for the island’s defence.

The move also demonstrates Beijing’s opposition to emerging regional cooperation among U.S. partners and allies. The maritime boundary discussions between Japan and the Philippines reflect increasing efforts among regional states to clarify maritime rights and strengthen coordination in contested waters.

For Taiwan, Chinese Coast Guard activities present a complex challenge. Unlike military operations, law-enforcement patrols operate within a legal grey zone that allows Beijing to advance territorial claims without triggering a conventional military confrontation. Such actions can gradually normalize China’s presence in disputed areas while increasing pressure on Taiwan’s security apparatus.

The incident further highlights the growing integration of maritime, legal, and information-based strategies in China’s approach to territorial disputes across the Indo-Pacific.

Stakeholders

Taiwan

  • Protecting maritime sovereignty and territorial claims.
  • Maintaining freedom of navigation and security in eastern waters.

China

  • Expanding operational presence around Taiwan.
  • Reinforcing sovereignty claims through maritime law-enforcement activities.

Japan

  • Engaged in maritime boundary discussions with the Philippines.
  • Monitoring Chinese activities that could affect regional security.

Philippines

  • Seeking greater legal clarity over maritime boundaries.
  • Increasing security cooperation with regional partners.

United States

  • Maintaining stability in the Taiwan Strait and broader Indo-Pacific region.
  • Supporting freedom of navigation and regional deterrence efforts.

Regional Security Partners

  • Including Australia and other Indo-Pacific states concerned about changing maritime dynamics.

Strategic Implications

The patrols illustrate China’s increasing reliance on so-called “grey-zone” tactics, which fall below the threshold of open military conflict while steadily advancing strategic objectives. By deploying Coast Guard vessels rather than naval forces, Beijing can challenge Taiwan’s authority while reducing the risk of immediate military escalation.

The incident also reflects the expanding geographical scope of cross-strait competition. Traditionally concentrated in the Taiwan Strait, tensions are increasingly extending into the Western Pacific, where control of maritime approaches carries significant strategic value for both China and Taiwan.

Furthermore, the timing of the operation suggests that Beijing is seeking to influence regional maritime diplomacy. By responding directly to Japan-Philippines boundary discussions, China is signaling its opposition to initiatives that could strengthen legal and political frameworks contrary to its territorial claims.

The episode reinforces concerns among regional governments that maritime disputes are becoming increasingly interconnected, linking Taiwan, the East China Sea, and the South China Sea into a broader strategic contest.

What’s Next?

Several developments warrant close attention in the coming weeks:

  • Taiwan is likely to increase coordination between its military and Coast Guard to strengthen maritime surveillance and response capabilities.
  • China may continue deploying Coast Guard vessels east of Taiwan as part of a sustained effort to normalize its operational presence in the area.
  • Japan and the Philippines are expected to proceed with maritime boundary discussions despite Beijing’s objections, potentially drawing further diplomatic responses from China.
  • Increased activity by the Liaoning carrier group could provide additional indications of China’s broader military objectives in the Western Pacific.
  • The United States and regional partners may intensify maritime monitoring and security cooperation to deter unilateral attempts to alter the status quo.

Future outcomes

The incident reflects a broader shift in regional security dynamics, where maritime law-enforcement operations are increasingly being used as instruments of strategic competition. Rather than relying solely on military pressure, China is employing a combination of legal, political, and operational tools to reinforce its territorial claims and shape the regional security environment.

For Taiwan, the challenge extends beyond the immediate presence of Chinese vessels. The longer-term concern lies in preventing the gradual normalization of Chinese activities in areas that Taipei considers vital to its sovereignty and security. As regional actors deepen cooperation on maritime governance and security, incidents of this nature are likely to become an increasingly important indicator of the evolving balance of power in the Indo-Pacific.

With information from Reuters.

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‘Unreal’ coast with turquoise waters and famous cliffs is perfect trip from London

This location is the perfect day trip from London as you can enjoy the colourful coastline, admire the turquoise waters and hop on board a chairlift with the most breathtaking views

Finding something exciting to do at the weekend or as a day trip can be a real challenge. You may have already ticked off village named the “prettiest in England” or explored another which is untouched with no new houses built since 1600s.

But now if you’re tempted to head down south, there’s the “most breathtaking” ride in England that promises absolutely spectacular scenery. This destination truly has everything – from turquoise waters to a vibrant coastline which feels completely “unreal”. One content creator recently documented his day trip to the Isle of Wight, which is surprisingly straightforward to reach from London.

Samual told his TikTok followers: “I think I’ve found the most breathtaking ride in England.”

In his caption, he continued: “The chair lift at The Needles on the Isle of Wight is honestly one of the most breathtaking rides I’ve experienced.

“Gliding down the cliffs at Alum Bay with views of the famous Needles cliffs, turquoise water and colourful coastline feels unreal. This is the perfect day trip from London.”

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How to get to the Isle of Wight:

If you’re travelling from London, you’ll have to take a South Western Railway train to Portsmouth Harbour, which takes around 2 hours. Next you’ll need to hop on board the ferry to Ryde Pier Head, a journey of roughly 22 minutes.

Any other areas of the UK will require you to drive down to Portsmouth before you can take the ferry. Meanwhile, a journey in the car might take a little longer, in some cases around 3-4 hours depending on what area you’re leaving from.

What to do in the Isle of Wight:

The island boasts a wealth of attractions, including iconic landmarks such as Alum Bay and The Needles. You can also travel back in time at Carlsbrooke Castle, where King Charles I was held prisoner, or hop aboard the Isle of Wight Steam Railway.

For family entertainment, marvel at 300,000 specimens at the Dinosaur Isle Museum in Sandown, or let the kids run wild at the UK’s oldest theme park at Blackgang Chine.

Round off your visit by tackling the breathtaking coastal trails, wandering through the lush surroundings of Ventnor Botanic Garden, or simply soaking up the sun at Compton Beach.

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Ivory Coast beats France in World Cup warning to one of the favourites | World Cup 2026 News

Ivory Coast defeats France 2-1 in friendly ahead of the 2026 World Cup, as Manchester United’s Amad Diallo seals win.

France has brushed aside ‌concerns over their World Cup readiness after suffering a surprise 2-1 defeat by Ivory Coast in a ⁠tournament warm-up match, insisting the setback will serve as a useful reminder rather than a cause for alarm.

Didier Deschamps’s side ⁠led through a superb first-half goal from Rayan Cherki on Thursday, but they were overrun after the break as Guela Doue and Amad Diallo turned the game around for the ⁠Elephants in Nantes.

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With France opening their World Cup campaign against Senegal in New York on June 16, midfielder Aurelien Tchouameni said the result should be viewed in the context of preparations.

“It’s a pity to lose, but we’re in a ‌preparation phase; we stay confident,” Tchouameni said.

“There is no conclusion to draw from this game, even if we had won it. We will be ready.”

France fielded an experimental side, with several Paris Saint-Germain players rested after last weekend’s Champions League final triumph, and made numerous changes after halftime.

Defender Lucas Hernandez also played down the significance of the defeat.

“We always want to win, but we’re in ⁠a phase of preparation, and there were a lot of ⁠substitutions,” Hernandez said.

“We’re in good spirits.”

Deschamps, however, admitted that his side had lost control of the contest after an encouraging opening 45 minutes and warned that France would face opponents with similar qualities to Ivory Coast in the ⁠United States.

“A defeat is never pleasant, even if we did some good things in the first half,” Deschamps said.

“In the second ⁠half we made a lot of changes, but that’s ⁠no excuse. We were not as good after the break, and they brought a lot of pace.

“We will face the same type of team on June 16.”

The France coach said the result could prove useful ‌if it prevented his players from becoming complacent before the tournament.

“It’s a reminder, if we needed one, not to think we’re better than we are,” he said.

‌Cherki ‌added: “It’s a little warning, and I can tell you we’re not going to the World Cup thinking we’re favourites, but we’re going to crush everyone.”

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From churches and castles to wonderfully weird Portmeirion: exploring Wales’s north-west coast on foot and by train | Wales holidays

From the graveyard of St Michael’s in Ynys, Wales, the view was ravishing: the Italianate oddity of Portmeirion sparkled on the opposite shore; the peaks of Eryri (Snowdonia) rippled in the distance; and, within the River Dwyryd’s broad swirl, sat the tidal island of Ynys Gifftan. “No one’s lived there for years,” said a passerby pointing to the isle, “but it’s just been put up for sale – £350,000, if you fancy it.”

I rather did, but sadly my modest savings don’t stretch that far. Wales’s “armpit”, geographically speaking – which is how some people refer to that chunk of Gwynedd where estuaries perspire into Cardigan Bay before it curves round the outstretched Llŷn peninsula – looked like a spectacular place to be marooned.

I’d come here because I thought it might be a particularly good place for coastal exploring by rail and on foot. The Cambrian Line, which starts in Shrewsbury, runs west to the bay, before turning north along Gwynedd’s shore. Here, it’s accompanied by the Wales Coast Path and, launched in 2024, the Cadfan Way, a 128-mile (206km) pilgrimage following sixth-century St Cadfan from his church in the seaside town of Tywyn to the ruins of the monastery he founded on Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island), off the Llŷn’s tip.

‘Fearsome’ Harlech Castle. Photograph: Getty Images

I began in Machynlleth. This handsome market town by the River Dyfi is where the Cambrian Line begins to feel connected to the sea. It also has a disproportionate number of excellent indie shops, and one of the country’s best restaurants – though I skipped Gwen’s 20-course, £295 feast and grabbed supplies from the Royal House deli instead (very tasty, very good value). Then I boarded the train.

I was soon rattling through an increasingly saturated land. The mouth of the Dyfi began to yawn into bird-beloved mudflats, salt marsh and sandbanks; the train passes right between the Dyfi Osprey Project’s 360-observatory and the osprey nests it observes. Wider and wider the waterway became until, eventually, at white-washed Aberdyfi, the line hit the coast, sometimes running so close to the sea’s edge that you couldn’t see the join.

We pootled north, via towns like Tywyn – starting point for St Cadfan pilgrimages – and teeny halts like Tonfanau, site of an army base during the second world war, now sheep-grazed ruins. Like many Cambrian Line stops, Tonfanau is request only; those on the platform should stick out an arm.

At Harlech, no requests are necessary – the train itself couldn’t help but be halted by the vision of Harlech Castle. Edward I’s crag-top stronghold was started in 1282, took seven years to build and still looks fearsome. I disembarked here, hiked up to the fortress and entered with ease via the modern floating bridge; back in the day, would-be intruders faced concentric walls, portcullises and a “killing zone” where arrows were fired from the sides, missiles dropped from above. The weather was gloomy, curtailing the views but piling on atmosphere. I spiralled up the dark stone staircases and circled the battlements, alone but for the hooded jackdaws. It gave me the shivers.

Portmeirion, which celebrates its centenary this year. Photograph: Mieneke Andeweg-van Rijn/Getty Images

I spent the night at Y Branwen hotel, in the castle’s shadow, and left Harlech the next day on foot, murk replaced by blazing sunshine. I was headed north along the coast, although the rocky Rhinogs rising behind the village looked tempting … “There’s no one in those hills,” Branwen’s owner David Penny told me. However, I stuck to Plan A, and wasn’t disappointed. Rounding Harlech Point, I was slapped by that view down the Dwyryd, soon passing isolated St Michael’s and my fantasy island.

Following the Cadfan Way for a while, I hiked from Ynys to St Tecwyn’s, an even lonelier church, seemingly ministering to no one from its eyrie above the estuary. It was here that poet and priest Jim Cotter was inspired to found the Small Pilgrim Places network; he wrote of St Tecwyn’s: “I’m at what must be one of the most extraordinary places in the whole of Wales.”

I had to agree, though Portmeirion, across the Dwyryd estuary, gives it a run for its money. This fantastical resort village, the trippy creation of Sir Clough Williams-Ellis, celebrates its centenary this year and remains wonderfully weird, with its candy palette, tricks of perspective and salvaged architectural paraphernalia. I popped into the Prisoner Shop, which sells memorabilia related to the cult TV show of the same name, filmed here in the 1960s. I wondered if it was still popular? “Oh yes,” the cashier confirmed. “Even with young people, they watch it on YouTube. Its themes – surveillance, freedom – feel relevant today.”

I stayed at Portmeirion’s Castell Deudraeth, a Gothic pile with big rooms, a good restaurant and The Prisoner looping on channel 801. But best was strolling into the village at sunrise, no one around, watching the sun crack the opposite hills, hit the top of the campanile and flood into the hot-pink camellia groves.

Porthmadog station wasn’t far, a short walk through the woods and across the mile-long cob that fords the Glaslyn estuary, Eyri summits keeping watch. From here on, I used a mix of train and boot to reach Pwllheli, the end of the Cambrian Line.

Plas Glyn-y-Weddw in Llanbedrog, one of the oldest art galleries in Wales. Photograph: Kirsty Ford/Alamy

That wasn’t always the case. A horse-drawn tramway, built in the 1890s by businessman Solomon Andrews, used to run farther west to his estate in Llanbedrog. Andrews turned the site’s Victorian mansion, Plas Glyn-y-Weddw, into an art gallery and charged a shilling for a combined tram and gallery ticket. Now, 130 years later, I paid nothing at all. The old tramway track is part of the Wales Coast Path – an easy, breezy four-mile stroll along the bay – and Plas Glyn-y-Weddw is free entry. Saved from ruin in the 1980s, it’s one of the oldest galleries in Wales, showcasing work by Welsh artists, and serving great cake inside its modern cafe, which squats beside the house like a giant silver sea urchin.

I scoffed a scone, then ambled through the Winllan woods on trails first developed by Andrews for his paying visitors. Andrews also placed the figurehead of an old ship on Mynydd Tir y Cwmwd, the heathery headland above. It was eventually destroyed and now the twisted metal Tin Man, or Iron Man, stands in its place, enjoying quite the spot. I could retrace my route from here, Cardigan Bay arcing away into a mountain-backed haze. It made a pleasing journey’s end, with the knowledge that getting home meant riding that charming train line back again.

The trip was supported by the Wales Coast Path. Cambrian Line tickets are cheaper bought in advance; a day rover ticket costs £21. Y Branwen in Harlech has doubles from £110 B&B. Castell Deudraeth has doubles from £208 B&B, including Portmeirion entry

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