coast

GOBBLING up sandy scraps of seaweed from the beach floor certainly isn’t the norm for me on a coastal stroll.

But it was for the residents of Guernsey between the 12th and 16th Centuries. And it’s a tradition that’s now coming back into fashion.

Nutrient-packed seaweed, abounding all over Guernsey, is free for the picking and just one of the many ways the island benefits from being surrounded by super-clean waters in the Channel.

I joined Guernsey Seaweed on one of its foraging tours of Havelet Bay and learned the marine plants here are in big demand at the island’s fanciest restaurants.

The slippery green stuff features heavily on a sophisticated menu at Michelin-starred Vraic, woven into cocktails and also adding a punch to rich broths.

After feasting on some pepper dulse, dubbed the truffle of the sea, I can completely see why chefs love it so much. There’s nothing of the fishy taste you would expect.

WAIL OF A TIME

I drove Irish Route 66 with deserted golden beaches and pirate-like islands

TEMPTED?

Tiny ‘Bali of Europe’ town with stunning beaches, €3 cocktails and £20 flights

Instead, I’m hit with a garlicky umami flavour.

The earthy and delicious taste, I’m told, is down to the warm temperature of the sea around the island, just 27 miles off France’s Normandy coast.

The Gulf Stream ensures the water here rarely dips below 8C in winter — which is why you’ll spot locals swimming year round.

Admittedly, even 13C felt like too much of a chill for me. But if you plan your trip well, you can ensure you combine a swim with a post-dip sauna session to warm up.

There are two mobile saunas on the island, Hot Haus and Rock Box, which can be booked online and are just a stone’s throw from the sea.

Rock Box, a converted, eucalyptus-infused horsebox, overlooks the Cobo Slipway in summer and features a huge window allowing those inside to soak up soothing coastal views while they sweat.

And sweat, I sure did. Conveniently, there are several watering cans, filled with icy water, positioned by the sauna door for guests to use in between ten to 15-minute stints in the heat.

The sauna was a treat that my limbs most definitely appreciated after a strenuous Pilates class earlier that morning.

Pilates instructor Lydia Cherry runs both Reformer and mat sessions at the Forme studio in St Andrews, for locals and holidaymakers alike.

Despite the moves seeming gentle, my abs were quivering within a matter of seconds as I was put through my paces.

If you prefer something a little more gentle, though, beachfront or paddleboard yoga are both popular choices for holidaymakers seeking a wellness fix.

That’s if you have enough strength left after tackling the island’s scenic coastal paths, though.

Guernsey is so small — around 24 square miles — that you can walk its coast in just a few days.

One of the more manageable treks — and beautiful — is the short 45-minute route from St Peter Port to Fermain Bay, combining fabulous coastal views with dense woodland that’s carpeted in bluebells during spring.

Reward your efforts afterwards with a tasty pint of local Rocquette cider — which uses some of that famed seaweed — at the Beach Cafe.

From my picnic table, perched just above the water, I could watch the foamy waves while listening to the birds overhead.

Make sure to order yourself a super-fresh crab sarnie, too, which comes loaded to the max and smothered in mayo. Delicious.

And that word can be used to describe the fare at many of the island’s restaurants.

Michelin-recommended Alba, in St Peter Port, in particular, strives to keep dishes local and serves up elegant sharing plates.

Its homemade tagliolini with Shetland mussels in a white wine and lemongrass sauce is an absolute steal at £15.

Wash it down with an Alba Tomatini, a classic martini with tomato twist (£11.50), and you’re in for a good night.

For a more casual bite, the Fleur du Jardin does classic pub grub, from fish-and-chips to bangers and mash.

It also has 14 boutique bedrooms upstairs that are as charming as the old-fashioned, stone-wall pub itself with its sea-themed decor.

The only thing that’s missing is a bit of seaweed.

Avanti West Coast research says that more than half of all passengers would like a completely phone-free carriage

Railway boffins claim to have discovered the ‘perfect train journey’ – from dodging boiled eggs and sweaty feet to revealing the best seat on any train. Avanti West Coast research and customer data claims to have revealed the unwritten rules of onboard comfort and which behaviours generate disapproving tuts.

The intercity operator has launched its first Comfort Index to provide a unique insight into what passengers value most during their journey and how it varies across Britain.

Their research said more than two thirds (77%) said they want a window seat, 69% prefer to face forward and 58% want an empty seat beside them. Exactly one in five (20%) would even travel 15 minutes longer to keep it empty, 18% would pay an extra £5 and 22% would sacrifice Wi-Fi.

Another one in five (20%) would even swap their coveted window seat for a little more space. Avanti’s booking data suggests there may be such a thing as the perfect train seat, with Seat 18 in Coach B being the most reserved seat on its Pendolino services.

It was booked 179,685 times between September 2025 – September 2026 and matches passenger preferences of having a window and table.

While those travelling on the West Coast Main Line have similar thoughts about seats, snacks proved controversial with 52% of rail travellers objecting to boiled eggs and 48% to tuna sandwiches being eaten onboard.

They say the famously reserved reputation of British people extends to the carriage environment too, with more than two-thirds (68%) wanting more quiet carriages.

More than half (52%) would even choose a completely phone-free carriage, suggesting that for many Brits, the dream journey might simply be one where nobody makes any noise.

The Index also reveals a generational shift in the unwritten rules of train travel, with Gen Z passengers being more tolerant of video calls. It says 38% think Facetiming onboard is unacceptable compared to almost three quarters (72%) of over-65s.

Sounds of other people’s phones onboard reveals an even bigger generation gap. A huge 88% of over-65s object to TikToks or videos without headphones compared to just 51% of 18-24-year-olds.

Younger passengers are said to place greater emphasis on choice and ‘making the journey their own’. A surprising 62% of 25-34-year-olds say choosing between Standard, Premium and First Class matters during planning compared with 42% of over-65s.

Gen Z are bringing their own comforts onboard too, with one in eight (12%) 18-24-year-olds saying they’d even pack a massage gun. Avanti West Coast say everyone seems to agree on keeping your socks on, as three quarters (75%) say taking them off onboard is unacceptable.

A whopping 70% object to TikToks without headphones and 67% to someone cutting or filing their nails. The study also shows how rail journeys are considered part of the occasion, with 69% of Brits saying their leisure time starts the moment they get onboard.

Between September 2025 – September 2026 Avanti West Coast say their customers drank almost 420,000 cups of breakfast tea and ate 212,000 KitKats.

Beer proved another favourite, with 154,000 Grolsch Pilsners sold, painting a suitably British picture of onboard comfort – a cuppa, something sweet or a cold beer en route. From seating preference and noise tolerance to boiled eggs, the Index shows Brits might never agree on exactly what makes the perfect journey.

Kathryn O’Brien at Avanti West Coast said: “The Comfort Index shows everyone’s definition of comfort varies. While there’s some unspoken rail travel etiquette most seem to agree on, beyond that people have different thoughts on what makes a comfortable journey.

“For some it’s peace and quiet while for others it’s getting work done, enjoying a snack or having space to relax.

“Customers most value the ability to shape their journey around their own needs, whether that’s choosing the perfect seat or enjoying a cup of tea onboard. That’s why we offer our seat picker tool and a range of refreshments in our onboard shop, helping customers to enjoy their trip from the very moment they board.

“By better understanding what matters most to our customers, we can continue to enhance and develop the onboard experience. This includes upgrading Wi-Fi connectivity to make travelling with Avanti West Coast as comfortable as possible for everyone.”

The full Avanti West Coast Comfort Index is available here

Some of 16 survivors treated for suspected shark bites, US coastguard says.

The search continues for 11 people still missing after a boat capsized off Mexico’s Baja California coast on Friday, as multiple survivors have been treated for suspected shark bites, according to the US coastguard.

“Several of the individuals rescued were suffering from severe injuries consistent with shark bites, and the Coast Guard provided life-saving first aid while en route [to] San Diego,” the coastguard said in a statement on Saturday.

Sixteen Mexican nationals were rescued on Friday. Survivors told officials there were 27 people on board.

The coastguard and US Navy used multiple aircraft and boats, along with assistance from the Mexican Navy, to search the area for the remaining passengers. An additional helicopter will be deployed later on Saturday, according to the coastguard.

A Mayday call was transmitted from someone on the boat at about 1am on Friday, coastguard Lieutenant Santiago Tamburini said on the day.

A rescue helicopter reached the site about two hours later. It took about 90 minutes for the crew, which included a rescue swimmer, to pull the 16 people from the water, he added.

The boat went down about 225km (140 miles) west of Ensenada, Mexico, an area popular with fishing and leisure boats, but that is also frequented by smugglers.

Although the incident did not happen in US waters, coastguard official Charlie Valor said on Saturday they “were able to help, and that’s why we launched our assets”.

Fatal attempts to transport refugees and migrants from Mexico to the US have occurred in the past.

In May 2025, at least three people died when a boat flipped off the coast about 56km (35 miles) north of the US-Mexico border.

In 2023, eight people were killed in one of the deadliest maritime smuggling accidents off the US coast, when two boats approached a San Diego beach in heavy fog, and one capsized in the surf.

If you’d like to live near the water along the spectacular California coast at some point in your life, you have a number of options.

You can settle in, say, Culver City, which is several miles inland, and wait for rising tides to arrive.

Or, if you just can’t wait that long, I saw a listing you might be interested in. It’s in Capitola, near Santa Cruz, right next to the wharf. The three bedroom, two bath, 1,850-square-foot condo, one of a string of Venetian, pastel beachfront homes, is listed for $3,995,000.

“The beach is your backyard, the cool ocean is your pool,” says the promo.

Given what’s happening right now along the California coast, you might not have to leave that condo to go for a swim. But UC Santa Cruz oceanographer and geologist Gary Griggs, who has seen the thrashing of that row of homes in previous years, is not going to make an offer.

“I’ve got a number of photos,” he said, “that show waves breaking over the top.”

Someone will buy the place, eventually, despite the chance of it becoming a fish tank. California is flush with dumb money and bad judgment, and an insatiable romance with an epic 1,200-mile shoreline.

But it’s time to rethink the relationship.

Last weekend in Long Beach I said a few words at the 50th anniversary of the California Coastal Act, which has kept our shoreline from looking like Atlantic City or Miami Beach by balancing sensible development with conservation and public access.

“The coast is never saved, it’s always being saved,” I said at the 50th, borrowing as I often do from the late Peter Douglas, hammering home the need for constant stewardship, from one generation to the next.

But in an ironic twist, part of the parking lot was underwater, a tractor had raised a berm to hold back the ocean, and just to the south, homes were being thrashed by waves. The coast wasn’t being saved, it was being reclaimed by the sea.

From there I headed south for a friend’s planned birthday party on the sand in Newport Beach, but city streets had been flooded and beaches were closed. The party was moved indoors.

We have not seen the worst of it, with a fall forecast that includes the possibility of an epic Super El Niño that could coincide with king tides, Kelvin waves and a peak lunar nodal cycle, all of which my colleague Rosanna Xia laid out a couple of days ago.

It’s not going to rain hammerheads and sea horses, I don’t think, but coastal destruction could be dramatic.

“We’re likely going to break a number of water level records,” said Timu Gallien of the UCLA Coastal Flood Lab. “It’s not implausible to see some of the piers wiped out, or breakwaters or jetties.”

“This is a glimpse of our future,” said former California Coastal Commission Director Jack Ainsworth. “This is it. It’s here.”

Some low-lying communities have been warned for years to prepare for rising sea levels, Ainsworth said, but have put off the inevitable.

In some areas, the only sane maneuver is what’s called “managed retreat,” meaning relocation of structures farther inland. But that is fraught with legal and political challenges and resistance.

Look, if you want to live on the sand and can afford to do so, good for you. But the general public should not be on the hook for your losses. Along the entire coast, public infrastructure that we all benefit from is under threat, including roadways, parks and railroad tracks, and that’s where any public investment ought to go.

Among the tools available are sand berms, cobble berms (sand on top of small stones), jetties, dredging and relocating sand, and below-surface breakwaters. Living shorelines, such as those along the Orange and San Diego county coasts, involve piling sand atop boulders or smaller stones and covering the berms with vegetation.

But these projects don’t happen overnight, Gallien said. “Right now we’re seeing reactive responses. OK, let’s throw up some sandbags and plywood.”

Kelsey Ducklow, coastal resilience director for the Coastal Commission, said the agency has awarded millions in grants for local planners to study the threat to their communities and come up with plans. Some locales are further along than others, Ducklow said, but there’s no single strategy that will work everywhere, and one typical response is, “Yeah, we know we need to do something. But where’s the money to do it?”

The three choices we have are mitigation, adaptation and suffering, Griggs said. We’re likely to do some of each, but on the mitigation end of things, sea walls, rock revetments and armored cliffs are temporary fixes.

“In the long run, there’s nothing we can do to hold back the Pacific Ocean,” said Griggs, 83, who has been teaching for 59 years. “Everything we do is a Band-Aid, and comes with different price tags and lifespans.”

Griggs was featured in Xia’s award-winning book “California Against the Sea: Visions for Our Vanishing Coastline,” which explores the impact of sea level rise and community responses that range from denial to respectful intervention.

Precious ecosystems are under threat, Xia wrote, “trapped between rising water on one side, pavement on the other.” And multiple Southern California beaches that are “so deeply tied to the state’s heart and soul” could be lost.

I asked Xia what she thought about the rising threat this year.

“So many people think about the coast as a place — a place that doesn’t move,” she said. “But the coast in reality is a living dynamic process that changes every time a wave crashes ashore. That’s the heart of the issue — we’re fundamentally trying to impose permanence onto a space that is meant to be constantly changing.”

We haven’t been the best stewards of the planet, and maybe what’s happening now is a bit of a reckoning. From the first time I saw the California coast as a young lad on vacation from the hot interior, I think I understood that the truest way to love the sea was to fear and respect it.

I now have more fear and more respect.

And maybe, too, a deeper love.

steve.lopez@latimes.com

At least 11 people believed to still be missing, with rescue operations underway.

The US coastguard has said it rescued 16 people from the Pacific Ocean after a boat sank off Mexico’s Baja coast.

The coastguard said on Friday it responded to a Mayday call reporting that a boat was sinking. The search is ongoing for 11 people believed to be still missing.

The boat went down about 225km (140 miles) west of Ensenada, Mexico.

A rescue helicopter reached the site about two hours after someone on the boat transmitted the Mayday call at about 1am (08:00 GMT) on Friday, said coastguard Lieutenant Santiago Tamburini.

It took about 90 minutes for the coastguard crew, which included a rescue swimmer, to pull the 16 people from the water, Tamburini said.

The people rescued were Mexican nationals, according to the Mexican consulate.

One survivor was being treated for a suspected shark bite and two were in critical condition, authorities said.

The rescued were flown by helicopter to San Diego, California, and transported to hospitals. The Mexican consulate in San Diego said it offered consular assistance.

The coastguard and US Navy are continuing to search the area with two helicopters, a fixed-wing plane, a cutter and a navy combat ship.

The boat sank in an area frequented by smugglers transporting migrants to the US. It is also popular with fishing and leisure boats.

Details about the boat’s origin, destination and what it was doing are not clear. No vessel, only debris, was found, and it was unclear what type of boat was involved, the coastguard said.

“Boats in that area can be for fishing, leisure, personal recreation. We just don’t know what they were doing out there. We all know it’s a suspected smuggling route,” Tamburini said.

Both Puglia and the Amalfi Coast are ideal if your idea of a holiday involves spending your days wandering around pretty coastal towns, stopping for seafood and taking a dip in the Mediterranean

There is a reason the Amalfi Coast is one of Italy’s most famous holiday destinations. The combination of dramatic cliffs, turquoise water, colourful villages and incredible Italian food makes it almost impossible not to fall in love with it. But there is also a downside to being somewhere that beautiful and well-known: everyone else wants to visit, too.

I recently travelled around southern Puglia, which sits east of Amalfi across Italy, and I found myself constantly comparing the two. Both regions have a lot in common: they’re hot, beautiful and have an unmistakable Mediterranean atmosphere.

But one thing in particular sets them apart. Instead of huge crowds filling every viewpoint, I found myself in Puglia walking through quiet streets where locals were still going about their everyday lives. The region isn’t exactly a secret, with places such as Alberobello firmly on the tourist trail, but it’s still much easier to escape the crowds there.

So how else do the regions match up?

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

Landscape and towns

The biggest similarity between Puglia and the Amalfi Coast is, unsurprisingly, the sea. Both destinations are ideal if your idea of a holiday involves spending your days wandering around pretty coastal towns, stopping for seafood and taking a dip in the Mediterranean.

The Amalfi Coast is famous for its steep cliffs, with towns seemingly built into the mountainsides above the sea. Puglia, meanwhile, is generally much flatter. I didn’t mind losing the cliffside views as Puglia’s flatness made exploring much easier. You don’t have to spend your day navigating steep roads and packed coastal viewpoints.

Otranto is a perfect case in point. Located on the Adriatic coast, the easternmost city in Italy has scenery you might expect on the Amalfi Coast, but with a much quieter atmosphere. This fortified old town is packed with tiny streets, historic buildings and restaurants, while the seafront opens out onto bright blue water.

I never felt overwhelmed by tourists there. I could simply wander around without having to constantly dodge people or wait for a gap to take a photograph. Greek and Byzantine influences have shaped the town, as did a brutal massacre in 1480 when Ottoman forces killed hundreds of residents who refused to renounce their Christian faith. The event is still remembered at Otranto Cathedral, where the remains of the 800 martyrs are kept.

Travel a little further south and you’ll reach Alberobello, the most touristy town in Southern Puglia. Alberobello is probably the most famous destination in Puglia, thanks to its extraordinary trulli: small whitewashed stone houses with distinctive conical roofs.

There are more than 1,400 trulli in the town, and the area has UNESCO World Heritage status. It is incredibly pretty, but also extremely touristy. The main streets are packed with souvenir shops, restaurants and visitors taking photographs, so if you’re expecting to discover a completely hidden Italian village, you might be disappointed.

But I found an easy way around this. Cross the town’s valley into Rione Aia Piccola and the atmosphere changes almost immediately. This is a residential area where people still live in traditional dry-stone huts, called trulli, and the streets are noticeably quieter.

The contrast summed up my experience of Puglia: even in the places that are undeniably touristy, there’s another side to discover if you’re willing to walk a little further.

Which is cheaper?

One of the biggest advantages Puglia has over the Amalfi Coast is the price. The star-studded West Coast has a reputation for being expensive, particularly in famous towns such as Positano, Amalfi and Ravello, where accommodation and restaurants can quickly add up.

Puglia isn’t necessarily a budget destination, particularly in peak summer, but I found it much easier to eat well without spending a fortune. Otranto was particularly affordable, with filling paninis and seafood dishes for around €12 or less. On the Amalfi Coast, finding a bargain is nearly impossible. You find yourself paying a premium simply for a location and view.

The food

This is an area where Puglia and the Amalfi Coast have plenty in common. Both regions make excellent use of fresh seafood, vegetables, olive oil and wine, but they have their own specialities.

In Puglia, olive oil is everywhere, used liberally along with tomatoes, almonds, fresh root vegetables and local cheeses. One of the region’s most famous foods is orecchiette, the small ear-shaped pasta traditionally served with broccoli rabe, while burrata is another staple.

I also kept coming across focaccia barese, a soft bread topped with tomatoes and olives, as well as panzerotti, fried pockets of dough usually filled with tomato and mozzarella. Along the coast, seafood naturally features heavily, with octopus, mussels and other freshly caught fish appearing on menus.

The Amalfi Coast has its own distinctive flavours. Lemons are perhaps the biggest one. The region is famous for its large Amalfi lemons, which are used in everything from desserts and drinks to savoury dishes, while delizia al limone and limoncello are two of the most recognisable treats.

Seafood is also central to the Amalfi Coast, with dishes such as seafood scialatielli, a type of fresh pasta, and totani e patate, squid cooked with potatoes.

Which Italian destination is better?

It’s not that Puglia has made me fall out of love with the Amalfi Coast. The destination is spectacular, and there is a reason millions of people want to see those famous cliffs and colourful villages for themselves.

But after travelling around Puglia, I found myself wondering whether it might actually be the better choice for a traveller who wants a quieter, more authentic experience. If you want dramatic cliffside scenery, glamorous restaurants and famous Instagram views, Amalfi is hard to beat. But if you’re after beautiful beaches, historic coastal towns, incredible Italian food and somewhere less crowded, I’d seriously consider Puglia.

Book it

You can visit Puglia as part of Great Rail Journeys’ eight-day ‘Hidden Gems of Southern Puglia’ trip, starting from £1,799 per adult, based on double occupancy.

The price includes return flights from London Gatwick or Heathrow to Brindisi, accommodation at a four-star all-inclusive resort, all coach travel, and guided tours and excursions. You can find out more and book on greatrail.com.

Simon caps a Pacific season of record-breaking intensity, as deadly storms wreak havoc from Hawaii to Mexico.

At least two people have died in Mexico after Hurricane Simon and former tropical storm Rachel brought torrential rain and catastrophic flooding to Pacific coast communities.

At a Monday news briefing, Guerrero Governor Evelyn Salgado confirmed that a 71-year-old man had died during Hurricane Simon after a retaining wall collapsed under the weight of intense precipitation.

According to the Guerrero-based news agency IRZA, the man, identified by his family as Albino Moreno Jimenez, had been feeding his animals on the western outskirts of Chilpancingo when a wall came crashing down on him.

A second death was announced later in the day in the state of Baja California along Mexico’s western coast. There, Governor Marina del Pilar said that a young girl had died from the effects of what was once Hurricane Rachel, which peaked in early October as a Category 3 storm.

At least 10 more people remain missing in Baja California, according to the governor. Eight were reported missing in the city of Ensenada, on the Pacific coast, and two in the fishing town of San Felipe on the Gulf of California.

The figures remain preliminary, with local newspaper La Jornada reporting a higher death toll of two in Baja California and 11 missing.

Death toll expected to rise

Rachel made landfall in the Mexican state as a post-tropical cyclone, and its remnants have travelled north through southern California in the southwestern United States.

Hurricane Simon, meanwhile, has churned off the coast of Mexico since the weekend. By late Monday morning, it had weakened from a powerful Category 4 storm to a Category 2.

Its maximum sustained winds had slowed slightly to around 155km/h (100mph), according to the US National Hurricane Center. Its centre was about 115km west-southwest of Cabo Corrientes, a cape in the state of Jalisco, drifting west at 3km/h.

Forecasters predict Simon could make landfall on Thursday or Friday. Hurricane warnings remain in effect for western Mexico, which is vulnerable to landslides and deadly surf conditions as a result of the storm.

Experts warn the death toll from both storms could rise, and officials have called on residents to exercise caution amid the devastation wrought by downed trees, high winds and floodwaters.

The Spanish newspaper El Pais reported the death of a cliff diver, Juan Patines, who was killed in Mazatlan, the northwestern state of Sinaloa, after jumping into the sea on Saturday night.

According to Mexican media, the heavy surf hampered his efforts to return to shore amid dangerous coastal conditions associated with Hurricane Simon. Local authorities later halted cliff-diving at the site due to hazardous sea conditions.

Officials have yet to confirm whether his death was directly linked to Hurricane Simon.

A record Pacific storm season

Rachel and Simon have battered Mexico’s western coast as part of an extraordinary stretch of hurricane activity across the Pacific.

The northeastern and central Pacific Ocean has experienced a record storm season this year, fuelled in part by the El Nino weather phenomenon, which results in warming waters in parts of the region. Twenty-one named storms have been recorded in the Pacific so far.

On Sunday, Simon tipped the region to a historic high for accumulated cyclone energy (ACE), a metric of the combined strength and longevity of tropical storms. This year has already surpassed the previous high set in 2018.

The US island chain of Hawaii has been among the hardest-hit places. In August, Hurricane Lala unleashed ruinous flooding on Hawaii’s Big Island as a Category 1 storm, killing a 93-year-old woman and destroying some 100 homes, according to state officials.

A few weeks later, Hurricane Lowell, a Category 4 hurricane at its peak, struck the Hawaiian islands of Kauai and Niihau, where powerful winds, storm surge and flooding overwhelmed towns and roads.

Roughly 90 percent of Kauai’s power customers were plunged into darkness as a result of electricity outages. At least two deaths were linked to Lowell.

In late September, Hurricane Nolo brought another round of flooding and landslides to the Hawaiian islands, though it did not make landfall.