coast

IMPERIAL BEACH, Calif. — Mike and Patricia McCoy answered the door of their cozy cottage in Imperial Beach, a short stroll from crashing waves and several blocks from the Tijuana River Estuary, where California meets Mexico and the hiking trails are named for them.

They offered me a seat in a living room filled with awards for their service and with books, some of them about the wonders of the natural world and the threat to its survival. The McCoys are the kind of people who look you in the eye and give you their full attention, and Patricia’s British accent carries an upbeat, birdsong tone.

In the long history of conservation in California, few have worked as long or as hard as the McCoys.

Few have achieved as much.

And they’re still at it. Mike at 84, Patricia at 89.

The McCoys settled in Imperial Beach in the early 1970s — Mike was a veterinarian, Patricia a teacher — when the coastal protection movement was spreading across the state amid fears of overdevelopment and privatization. In 1972, voters approved Proposition 20, which essentially laid down a hallmark declaration:

The California coast is a public treasure, not a private playground.

Four years later, the Coastal Act became state law, regulating development in collaboration with local government agencies, guaranteeing public access and protecting marine and coastal habitats.

During that time, the McCoys were locked in a fight worth revisiting now, on the 50th anniversary of the Coastal Act. There had been talk for years about turning the underappreciated Tijuana River Estuary, part of which was used as a dumping ground, into something useful.

Mike McCoy knew the roughly 2,500-acre space was already something useful, and vitally important. It was one of the last major undeveloped wetlands in Southern California and a breeding and feeding site for 370 bird species, along with fish, reptiles, rabbits, foxes, coyotes and other animals.

In McCoy’s mind, it needed to be restored, not repurposed. And certainly not as a giant marina, which would have destroyed a habitat that was home to several endangered species. At a 1977 Imperial Beach meeting packed with marina supporters, Mike McCoy drew his line in the sand.

“I went up there,” McCoy recalled, pausing to say he could still feel the heat of the moment, “and I said, ‘You people, and I don’t care who you are, you’re not going to put a marina in that estuary. That’s sacrosanct. You don’t mess with that. That’s a fantastic system, and it’s more complex than you’d ever believe.’”

The estuary won, but the McCoys weren’t done. As I began talking with them about the years of advocacy that followed, Patricia’s modesty blushed.

“We don’t want to be blowing our own trumpet,” she said.

They don’t have to. I’m doing it for them, with the help of admirers who were happy to join the symphony.

Patricia went on to become a member of the Imperial Beach City Council and served for two years on the Coastal Commission, which oversees implementation of the Coastal Act. She also helped Mike and others take the estuary restoration fight to Sacramento, to Washington, D.C., and to Mexico.

“This is what a real power couple looks like,” said Sarah Christie, legislative director of the Coastal Commission. “They wield the power of nature and the power of the people. You can’t overstate their contribution to coastal protection.”

The McCoys’ signature achievement has been twofold, said Jeff Crooks, a San Diego wetlands expert. They helped establish the estuary as a protected wildlife refuge, and they also helped build the framework for the estuary to serve as a research center to monitor, manage and preserve the habitat and collaborate with other managed estuaries in the U.S.

“It’s been a living laboratory for 40-some years,” said Crooks, research coordinator for the Tijuana River National Estuarine Research Reserve.

Sewage and debris flow from Tijuana are an ever-present threat and decades-long source of frustration and anger in Imperial Beach, where beaches have been closed and some residents have planted “Stop the Stink” yard signs. Crooks said there’s been some progress on infrastructure improvements, with a long way to go.

But “even though we’re beating it up,” Crooks said of the pollution flowing into the estuary, it’s been amazingly resilient in part because of constant monitoring and management.

Chris Peregrin, who manages the Tijuana Estuary for the state park system, said the nonprofit Tijuana Estuary Foundation has been a good partner, and the president of the foundation board is guess who:

Mike McCoy.

The foundation ”fills gaps that the state cannot,” Peregrin said. “As one example, they run the research program at the reserve.”

For all their continued passion about the mission in their own backyard, the McCoys fret about the bigger picture — the alarming increase in greenhouse gases and the biodiversity decline. Through the estuary window, they see a planet in peril.

“They both think big like that,” Crooks said. “Mike especially comes from the mindset that this is a ‘think globally and act locally’ kind of thing.”

“Restoration is the name of the game, not intrusion,” Mike told me, and he wasn’t talking just about the estuary.

On the very week I visited the McCoys, the Trump administration delivered a crushing blow to the environmental movement, repealing a government finding that greenhouse gas pollution is a threat to the planet and public health. He called those claims, backed by overwhelming scientific consensus, “a giant scam.”

It’s easy to throw up your hands at such knuckle-dragging indifference, and Mike told me he has to keep reaching for more stamina.

But Serge Dedina, a former Imperial Beach mayor who was inspired by the McCoys’ activism as a youngster, sees new generations bringing fresh energy to the fight. Many of them work with him at Wildcoast, the international coastal conservation nonprofit he founded, with Patricia McCoy among his earliest collaborators.

“I wouldn’t be a conservationist and coastal activist without having worked with Patricia and Mike and being infused with their passion,” said Dedina. ”I think sometimes they underestimate their legacy. They’ve had a huge impact on a whole generation of scientists and conservationists and people who are doing work all along the coast.”

We can’t underestimate the legacy of the citizen uprising of 1972, along with the creation of an agency dedicated to coastal conservation. But it’s only fair to note, on the 50th anniversary of the Coastal Act, that not everyone will be reaching for a party hat.

The Coastal Act has been aggressively enforced, at times to a fault in the opinion of developers, homeowners, commercial interests and some politicians. Former Gov. Jerry Brown, who signed the act into law, once referred to Coastal Commission agency staffers as “bureaucratic thugs” for tight restrictions on development.

There’s been constant friction, thanks in part to political pressure and the clout of developers, and one of the many future threats to the core mission is the need for more housing throughout the state. The balance between new construction and continued conservation is sure to spark years of skirmishes.

But as the Coastal Commission website puts it in marking the anniversary, the major achievements of the past 50 years include the “wetlands not filled, the sensitive habitats not destroyed, the access trails not blocked, the farms and ranches not converted to urban uses, the freeways and gated communities and industrial facilities not built.”

In the words of the late Peter Douglas, who co-authored Proposition 20 and later served as executive director of the Coastal Commission, the coast is never saved, it’s always being saved.

Saved by the likes of Mike and Patricia McCoy.

I had the pleasure of walking through the estuary with Mike, past the plaque dedicated to him and his wife and “all who cherish wildlife and the Tijuana Estuary.” We also came upon one of the new interpretive signs that were to be dedicated Friday, including one with a photo of Mike and Patricia as young adults “Making a Difference.”

Mike pointed a finger here and there, explaining all the conservation projects through the year. We saw an egret and a rabbit, and when I heard a clacking sound, Mike brightened.

“That’s a clapper rail,” Mike said, an endangered bird that makes its home in the estuary.

The blowing of the trumpet isn’t just for the McCoys.

It’s a rallying call to those who might follow in their footsteps.

steve.lopez@latimes.com

Korea Coast Guard’s patrol vessel Taepyongyang 16 takes part in the joint search and rescue exercise with Japan Coast Guard and U.S. Coast Guard in Kyoto-Prefecture, Japan on June 6, 2024. The Japanese fisheries agency said Friday that authorities seized a Chinese fishing boat off the coast of Nagasaki after its captain refused to stop for an inspection. File Photo by Keizo Mori/UPI | License Photo

Feb. 13 (UPI) — The Japanese fisheries agency said Friday that authorities seized a Chinese fishing boat off the coast of Nagasaki after its captain refused to stop for an inspection.

The Chinese boat was sailing in Japan’s exclusive economic zone in the East China Sea near Japan’s Goto Islands on Thursday when it was ordered to stop. The boat then attempted to flee, a statement by the fisheries agency said.

Eleven people were aboard the fishing boat, including the captain, Zheng Nianli, a 47-year-old Chinese national. The captain was detained by Japanese authorities.

The boat, the Qiong Dong Yu 11998, remains in Japan’s custody and is being held as evidence. It remains unclear what will happen to the 10 members of the crew.

“We will continue to take resolute action in our enforcement activities to prevent and deter illegal fishing operations by foreign vessels,” said Minoru Kihara, Japan’s chief cabinet secretary.

Lin Jian, a spokesman for the Chinese foreign ministry, said Friday that Japan should “enforce the law impartially and protect the safety and legitimate rights and interests of crew members.”

Tensions have continued to rise between China and Japan in recent months. Japanese Prime Minister Sanae Takaichi told parliament in November that Chinese aggression toward Taiwan could spark a military response from Japan.

China has continued its claim that Taiwan is its territory. In its ongoing push for “reunification,” Chinese officials have not ruled out the possibility of using force.

Takaichi’s comments to parliament drew criticism from Chinese officials. China’s foreign ministry called the comments “egregious.”

Diplomacy, tourism and commerce between the two nations have been strained since Takaichi addressed Japan’s parliament.

Passengers are best to check their train operator before heading on board

In the UK, there are several big train companies, and many are used by thousands daily for commuting, visiting family or friends, or even during a staycation. Each company has its own features. For instance, some trains have Wi-Fi and USB charging ports, while others do not.

When it comes to food and drinks, there are differences as well. Some railway companies offer catering services, but many others do not. Every train operator has its own rules about bringing your own food and drinks onboard – and there are some items you should avoid.

On National Rail’s official website, a statement reads: “Many train companies have onboard catering facilities. These can include trolley services, counter buffet services and restaurant cars. The longer the journey, the more likely that there will be food and drink available on board.”

Some train companies offer food and drink on board. Below is a list of the ones that do:

There are numerous others that don’t, however. The following train companies and services do not offer onboard catering:

• c2c
• Chiltern Railways
• Elizabeth line
• Gatwick Express
• Great Northern
• Heathrow Express
• London Northwestern Railway
• London Overground
• Merseyrail
• Northern
• South Western Railway
• Southeastern
• Southern
• Stansted Express
• Thameslink
• West Midlands Railway

According to National Rail, passengers can bring their own food onboard, and they are urged to “take care” with hot drinks. However, they should not “leave wrappers and other packaging behind”, or “get carried away” when consuming alcohol.

In a major “do not” alert, the passenger rail service says people should avoid bringing certain types of food on board. It says: “Don’t bring very smelly food on your journey – leave that wedge of Stinking Bishop at home!”

In terms of alcohol, National Rail adds: “In general, you can bring and consume alcohol on trains, except those managed by Transport for London. But some train companies will run alcohol-free services, so check before you travel. And remember, antisocial behaviour is not permitted at any time.” Scroll down below for a look at the trains that ban alcohol at certain hours and on specific routes.

The largest train companies in the UK, by network size, passenger numbers, and franchise size, include Govia Thameslink Railway (GTR), Great Western Railway (GWR), Northern Trains, Avanti West Coast, and ScotRail. GTR is the largest, running 22% of all passenger services in the UK, including Thameslink, Southern, and Great Northern.

Govia Thameslink Railway (GTR)

GTR covers Southern, Thameslink, Great Northern, and Gatwick Express. The railway operator doesn’t have a strict rule against certain food or drink items, but it is requested that passengers do not consume items that disturb or upset other passengers, and litter must be taken with them.

You are allowed to bring and eat your own food and drinks on Southern Railway trains. Usually, there aren’t any catering services on Southern Railway’s commuter trains, but passengers can enjoy their meals and drinks as long as they are ‘polite to others’, ‘keep the train clean’, and ‘take their rubbish with them’. You can have food and drinks, but please be ‘mindful of strong odours’. Alcohol is mostly allowed, but Southern might limit it on certain trains, like those for football games.

Regarding Thameslink trains, as there are no on-board catering services, passengers are encouraged to bring their own refreshments. However, the trainline asks passengers to avoid bringing ‘smelly, hot, or messy food’ that may disturb other passengers. Alcohol is generally allowed on Thameslink, but antisocial behaviour is not tolerated, and you may be asked to stop or leave if deemed intoxicated.

It is important to note that while London-based Thameslink services allow alcohol, other Transport for London (TfL) services do not. All of the above also applies to Great Northern and Gatwick Express trains.

Great Western Railway (GWR)

On GWR trains, you can bring your own food and drinks, including alcohol, but ‘avoid bringing food that smells really strong’. You can usually have alcohol, but ‘anti social behaviour is not allowed’, and specific, limited services may have restrictions.

Food and drink are available only on longer-distance routes operated by Intercity Express Trains. On most long-distance trips, there are snacks, drinks, and alcoholic beverages you can choose from. However, not all local routes have food and drink services, especially the ones between Penzance–Exeter St Davids and Exeter St Davids–Bristol/Cardiff/Gloucester/Worcester.

Usually, there is a free trolley service with snacks and drinks available at your seat on high-speed trains that run from 6am to 7.30pm. Passengers are urged to take their rubbish with them or use the bins that are available.

Northern Trains

You can usually bring food and non-alcoholic drinks on Northern Rail trains, so you can have your own snacks during the trip. But on some “dry trains,” alcohol is banned. It’s important for passengers to also be thoughtful of others by ‘not bringing strong-smelling foods’ and by ‘taking all their rubbish with them’.

A statement on the official Northern website reads: “On certain trains, we don’t allow any alcohol on board. We’ve made some of our services ‘dry trains’ because of past issues with people getting rowdy and causing trouble.

“If you’re on a ‘dry train’, our staff will ask you not to drink or hide any booze during your journey. If you’re visibly drunk or try to sneak alcohol on board, you won’t be allowed to travel and could face prosecution under railway byelaws. If you’ve got alcohol with you before you board these services, you’ll need to dispose of it before the barriers, please. No exceptions here – you won’t be able to travel with it.” The trains where you can’t bring alcohol are listed online.

Avanti West Coast (AWC)

You can bring your own food and drinks on AWC trains, but it’s best to avoid really smelly items. In Standard and Standard Premium classes, you can buy snacks and drinks from the onboard shop, and there are hot food choices too. In First Class, you get free meals and drinks, depending on the time and length of the trip. You can have alcohol, but don’t drink too much; also, some services might not allow alcohol, so it’s a good idea to check first.

ScotRail

You can bring and consume your own food and non-alcoholic drinks on ScotRail trains. Alcohol consumption is restricted, with a ban in place during certain hours. It is advised to avoid bringing very smelly food and to take your litter with you.

A statement on ScotRail explains: “Alcohol may be consumed on our trains between 10am and 9pm. Other restrictions may apply in certain circumstances, such as large sporting events or concerts, as determined by ScotRail and the British Transport Police (BTP), on a case-by-case basis. Railway Byelaw 4 (2) states that a passenger with intoxicating liquor can be prevented from entering, or be asked to leave, the railway.”

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“In 2008, my wife, my then-7-year-year-old daughter and I were going to take Amtrak from Los Angeles to Chicago, but the Amtrak booking agent screwed the reservations up so badly that we instead decided to take a train from Montreal to Vancouver.

There was some poignancy to this, as my grandmother was a picture bride from Greece. She had grown up on a small Dodecanese island and crossed the Atlantic in the 1920s. For the last leg of her journey, she took a train from Montreal to meet my grandfather (for the first time) in Vancouver. They met on a Saturday and married on a Monday in a Russian Orthodox Church. Experiencing the same journey that my grandmother had taken seemed like a good vacation hook.

Montreal was our point of departure, an enchanting city with fantastic food and charming denizens. After a few days we headed out to Toronto on a commuter-style train. It was perfectly adequate, but not particularly enchanting, and certainly not what my grandmother would have traveled on.

In Toronto, my daughter and I had afternoon tea at the Fairmont Royal York across from the train station, where we embarked on a more picturesque excursion.

We had a triple compartment. It was located in a stainless-steel streamlined car that was built in the 1950s, spot on for our little family of Midcentury Modern enthusiasts. We saw the train snake through Ontario forests, felt it rumble along Canada’s midwestern plains and then head up through the spectacular Canadian Rockies. There were plenty of bear, elk and other wildlife sightings along the way. We ate surprisingly good food like trout and pork chops for dinner. At night we watched train movies like “Murder on the Orient Express.”

We got off in Jasper, the Yellowstone of Canada, filled with glaciers, craggy mountains, waterfalls, rivers and spectacular vistas. We took bike and horseback rides. When I admonished my 7 year-old for complaining too much during a particularly wonderful excursion, she retorted, “Daddy, complaining is my passion!”

After a few days we got back on the train and headed to Vancouver. This was another scenic parade of mountains, rivers and forests.

In Stanley Park I pondered my grandmother’s voyage. Our trip was one of leisure. Hers was a life decision to escape the bleak prospects of an island girl.”

— George Skarpelos, Los Angeles

Feb. 2 (UPI) — A network of environmental organizations warned about environmental and social risks two megatourism projects promoted by Royal Caribbean could generate on the island of Cozumel and in the coastal town of Mahahual, and urged federal authorities to deny environmental permits for both.

The projects, known as Royal Beach Club in Cozumel and Perfect Day in Mahahual are under review by the Secretariat of Environment and Natural Resources after the company submitted its Environmental Impact Statements between December and January.

According to the organizations, both projects are based on a large-scale tourism model intended to concentrate massive flows of visitors over very short periods.

For Mahahual, a community of fewer than 3,000 residents, Royal Caribbean plans to receive more than 21,000 tourists per day, which the groups say would place disproportionate environmental pressure on fragile coastal ecosystems.

The warning came from Grupo Gema del Mayab, Selvame MX, Territorios Diversos para la Vida, the Mexican Civil Council for Sustainable Forestry, the Citizen Collective of Cozumel Island, the Salvemos Mahahual Collective, Alianza para la Defensa Ambiental A.C., Defendiendo el Derecho a un Medio Ambiente Sano A.C., Futuros Indígenas and Greenpeace México A.C.

The organizations argue that the Perfect Day megaproject poses a direct threat to the mangroves of Mahahual, considered key to coastal protection and ecological balance, as well as to species such as the jaguar and to sea turtle nesting areas.

They also warn of potential impacts on the Mexican Caribbean reef and restrictions on public access to beaches.

One of the issues described as “highly concerning” is that the company is allegedly promoting both projects as if they already had environmental authorizations, even though the administrative procedures have not been completed.

On Thursday, a District Court in Quintana Roo granted a provisional suspension as part of a lawsuit filed by Defendiendo el Derecho a un Medio Ambiente Sano A.C. against actions by municipal and state authorities that approved land-use changes on more than 264 acres in Mahahual for the Perfect Day project.

The organizations argue that the experience in northern Quintana Roo — in areas such as Cancun — shows that intensive tourism has caused irreversible environmental damage, de facto privatization of the coastline and economic benefits concentrated in a few actors, while local communities bear the social and ecological costs.

They stress that the projects cannot be evaluated in isolation, as the Yucatan Peninsula faces cumulative pressures stemming from accelerated urban growth, other large infrastructure projects and the effects of climate change.

The groups called on the secretariat to guarantee a “strict and transparent” environmental evaluation process, with effective participation by local communities and application of the precautionary principle established under Mexican law. They also requested that no project be authorized if it puts the natural heritage of the Mexican Caribbean and the Maya Forest at risk.

“The Maya Forest is not an amusement park,” the organizations said, insisting that the region must be prioritized for the country’s environmental and cultural conservation.

Snow, ice and freezing temperatures have blanketed the Eastern half of the United States for the last week — including US 75 north of Dallas — bringing extreme winter weather to parts of the country, including the Carolinas, Georgia and Florida, that do not generally experience it. Photo by Ian Halperin/UPI | License Photo

Feb. 1 (UPI) — Another blast of Arctic winter weather froze the East Coast, as temperatures farther north dropped below zero, the Carolinas were blanketed with snow and freeze warnings were issued as far south as Miami.

North and South Carolina were hit especially hard with nearly two feet of snow expected over the weekend and wind chills expected to be below zero from Virginia south to Georgia, but most of the Northeast region of the country will see its normal cold winter temperatures, the New York Times reported.

In addition to blizzard conditions in North Carolina, two major highways in Mississippi have remained closed because of icy conditions, power is out in some places and 16 people have died, while in Nashville tens of thousands of people were waiting for their electricity to be turned back on as a result of the massive winter storm.

In Florida, decades old records were broken as temperatures dropped below the 30s nearly everywhere in the state, WPLG reported.

According to weather reports, temperatures were as low as 30 degrees in parts of Miami-Dade County, Pembroke Pines in South Florida saw a wind chill of 24 degrees, Orlando broke a 90-year-old record as temperatures dipped below 30 degrees and snow flurries were seen as far south as Tampa.

The extended period of winter weather in places that normally do not expect it will continue into this week, although the Northeast — New York, New Jersey and Massachusetts, specifically — will see bitter cold continue but the chance for snow is expected to increase.

“We want to take Swansea to the Premier League, and to do that we are going to need money – that’s the reality of the game these days.

“I want to introduce sponsorship deals and publicity that will make them a global name.”

The West Coast rapper has sold more than 30 million albums worldwide but is yet to attend a Swansea game, though his son Cordell Broadus was in the directors’ box for the Welsh side’s draw with Watford last August.

American billionaire businesswoman Martha Stewart, who joined Snoop Dogg and Real Madrid legend Luka Modric as a Swansea co-owner in December, was in Wales for the game against Wrexham just before Christmas.

Swansea have said Snoop Dogg is likely to attend a game at some point this season, though there is still no confirmation of when he may appear at the Swansea.com Stadium.

“For real I want to meet with the fans,” Snoop Dogg said.

“These fans are passionate, they are real, and I want to hear what they got to say when I am in Swansea.

“I knew I always wanted to invest in a soccer team – it’s been a dream of mine for years, it was all about waiting for the right opportunity.”

Modric was the first celebrity name to get involved at Swansea, with the former Ballon d’Or winner named as a co-owner last April.

Swansea’s American owners, led by Brett Cravatt and Jason Cohen, believe bringing in high-profile names at boardroom level will help increase the profile the club which will in turn boost income.

‘They should be ready to hear us roar,’ says military ruler Tiani, who thanked Russian troops for defending airbase.

Niger’s military government has accused France, Benin and Ivory Coast of sponsoring an assault on a military base at Niamey’s international airport, while thanking “Russian partners” for repelling the attack.

General Abdourahamane Tiani, who seized power in a 2023 coup, made his claims on state television on Thursday, blaming France’s President Emmanuel Macron, Benin’s Patrice Talon and Ivory Coast President Alassane Ouattara. He did not offer any evidence to back up those claims.

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France, Benin and Ivory Coast have not commented on the claims yet.

The military leader made those claims after visiting the airbase at Diori Hamani International Airport, located some 10km (six miles) from the presidential palace, where explosions and shootings were reported on Wednesday night into Thursday.

Defence Minister Salifou Modi said the attack lasted “about 30 minutes”, before an “air and ground response”. The defence ministry said four military personnel were injured and 20 attackers were killed, with state television saying that a French national was among them.

Eleven people were arrested, it added.

“We have heard them bark, they should be ready to hear us roar,” said Tiani in comments that reflected the recent deterioration of Niger’s relations with France and neighbouring nations that he views as French proxies in the region.

Tiani also thanked Russian troops stationed at the base for “defending their sector”, confirming his nation’s growing ties with Moscow, which has provided military support to tackle a rebellion linked to al-Qaeda and ISIL.

Neither of the armed groups has so far claimed responsibility.

Niger has been led by General Tiani since a coup that overthrew the elected civilian president, Mohamed Bazoum, in July 2023.

The country, which is allied with Sahel neighbours Mali and Burkina Faso in the Alliance of Sahel States (AES), has struggled to contain the rebellion, which has killed thousands and displaced millions in the three nations.

An integral part of whale watching, Capt. Rick Podolak explained as we zipped out of North San Diego Bay past Point Loma, is establishing trust.

That and a fast vessel, good timing and luck. All of which we hoped would align during a whale-watching excursion in late December, the month typically inaugurating an annual gray whale migration from the Arctic south to Baja California.

“We call them our Christmas whales,” said Podolak, of Adventure Whale Watching.

Grays endure an epic roundtrip journey of 10,000 miles or more, and California holds a prime seat through May. Along with being a migratory route for grays and humpbacks, this stretch of Pacific Coast from San Diego to beyond the Bay Area offers seasonal feeding grounds that attract a variety of whale species throughout the year.

“I would go so far as to boast that California has some of the best whale watching in the world,” said Ted Cheeseman, a Santa Cruz whale researcher and co-founder of Happywhale, a photo-based whale identification platform.

Tempering the enthusiasm Cheeseman and other researchers hold around current thriving whale populations are significant concerns about gray whales dying. Grays’ numbers along the Pacific Coast have plunged by half in the last decade, to about 13,000, due to climate change affecting their Arctic food supply.

“Last year was by far the lowest count we’ve ever had, and this year is even lower,” said Alisa Schulman-Janiger, a marine biologist and whale researcher who coordinates an annual gray whale census out of Rancho Palos Verdes.

In December 2025, volunteers spotted 14 whales headed south to calving lagoons in Mexico. In December 2024, they counted 33. In December 2014, by comparison, there were 393.

With numbers like those rattling in my head and the clock ticking as Podolak piloted us north along the coastline, I grew increasingly doubtful about us witnessing the grays’ movement south. We were looking for backs or flukes (tails) breaking the water. Most telling is the spout — the condensed mass of water vapor and mucus that whales force from their blowholes as they surface.

After 90 minutes, we’d spied cormorants and pelicans galore, but little else. It was nearly time to head back.

Then, there it was. A spout, rising clearly against the coastline. Then another, just before the whale dove from sight. The captain identified it as a gray whale, with their distinct white patches of clinging barnacles.

This month, California tour operators have reported several gray sightings. As we watch for them and other cetaceans, this is one instance in which tourists can create positive change. Advocacy organizations outline how to select ethical tour operators and federal agencies are charged with maintaining safe distances (100 yards for most whale species) between vessels and marine mammals. Whale researcher Cheeseman says well-managed whale tourism raises public awareness and financially supports whale science and conservation.

“For some people, seeing a blue whale in the Santa Barbara Channel checks a box — it’s an Instagram post,” he said. “For others, it entirely transforms their view of the natural world.”

Starting in San Diego and moving north, here are some of California’s leading whale-watching spots.