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Epic food, amazing shows, museums you won’t find anywhere else and a helicopter ride down the famous strip – here’s my ultimate Las Vegas itinerary

The glitz, the glam, those unforgettable “wow” moments – it’s easy to see why Las Vegas remains the ultimate bucket-list destination. Whether you’re marveling at the neon skyline from 1,000 feet up or walking the Strip to soak in the music and eclectic fashion, this town is a sensory explosion that demands to be experienced at least once.

The home of the famous strip, countless wedding chapels and its own Eiffel Tower and Statue of Liberty, this place almost doesn’t feel real. It’s defined by vintage camp, 24-hour casinos, more buffet restaurants than you can possibly imagine, and high-class dining eateries. Welcome to Vegas, baby.

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The most exciting area to stay in Las Vegas

I arrived via a direct flight from Heathrow, checking into The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas. Arguably the best-positioned hotel on the Strip, it offers the perfect paradox: you are in the heart of the action, yet the rooms are a sanctuary of total silence.

My suite featured a private balcony overlooking the city’s glowing landmarks and the iconic choreography of the Bellagio fountains. Watching the water dance from my room, the excitement for my desert escape truly set in.

Where to find the best places to eat in Las Vegas

Food is central to the Vegas experience, so first on the agenda once we’d dropped our bags was brunch at Alexxa’s – situated on the Strip, right in the thick of the action. In the spirit of a true American getaway, we went straight for the classics, ordering a spread of fried chicken and waffles, fluffy American-style pancakes and steak and eggs.

Of course, no Vegas brunch is complete without a little “hair of the dog.” I washed it all down with the most gargantuan Bloody Mary I’ve ever seen, complete with a slice of bacon. Nothing here is small-scale – it was the perfect, over-the-top introduction to the local food scene.

But don’t miss breakfast at the hotel either. The Cosmopolitan‘s Wicked Spoon is a brilliant buffet, with pretty much everything you could possibly think of… I even had a few sushi rolls on the side.

For dinner, we feasted at Mayfair Supper Club inside the Bellagio (yes, the one from Ocean’s Eleven), where live dancers perform around diners as they tuck into all-American classics.

But the highlight was dinner at Vanderpump Paris – and as a Real Housewives of Beverly Hills fan, it was the dream. Lisa Vanderpump knows how to put together a menu. Curated with Parisian themes embellished with Vegas flair and eclectic cocktails, I felt like a total superstar eating here.

Experiences you must not miss while you’re there

I could have filled the days just walking up and down the infamous strip. With buskers, magicians, show girls (and show boys) I spotted the Eiffel Tower, the Luxor pyramid, the Empire State Building, the Paris globe and the iconic casinos – which were already getting busy, despite it being barely two in the afternoon.

But there are so many bucket list experiences to try, too. We started with an ice hockey Game: Golden Knights vs. Edmonton Oilers (tickets around £55). I was pretty much an ice hockey novice, but that doesn’t matter a jot. American sport is packed with entertainment, and it didn’t take me long to soak up the atmosphere and join in with the chants. Why can’t this be a thing in the UK?

As if that wasn’t enough excitement for one night, we then ticked off another iconic moment – a helicopter ride down the Strip.

Now, I’m no daredevil (I was slightly apprehensive), but as soon as we got up into the sky it was magical. We were given a 10-minute tour by our pilot, taking off at 10:30pm, just as Vegas was truly coming alive for the night.

We also checked out The Sphere, which I’d like to call an immersive cinema but it’s so much more than that. It’s a one of a kind, multi-sensory show with holograms and AI. With tickets for the classic The Wizard of Oz, I was expecting a cinematic experience. In fact, it was fully immersive, to the point it made us feel like we were actually in the storm with Dorothy.

Another recommendation is the Neon Sign Museum. The bright lights of the signs are what makes Vegas so magical, so what happens to the signs when they are no longer in use? They go to the Neon Sign Museum – and it’s nearly as impressive as the Strip itself.

I loved seeing the ‘old’ Vegas here, bringing history to light – literally – and for the best experience I recommend the illuminated evening tours (from £26) but there are also self-guided daytime options (from £19).

Finally, in dedication to the stars of all the shows, we couldn’t miss a stop at the Show Girl Museum – the home of all the iconic showgirl costumes. But what makes this museum one of a kind? It’s inside Grant Philipo’s house – a former showgirl costume designer. Tickets are $33 each and Grant has nearly 300 mannequins in his home as he led us around the impressive pad, paying homage to the glamour and beauty of Las Vegas.

And if the brunch and dinner performances weren’t enough, we topped the day off by going to watch Jennifer Lopez perform at her residency in The Colosseum theatre – part of Caesar’s Palace Hotel.

You’d think with all that I wouldn’t have found time to have a little flutter on the tables, but this is a 24-hour city – there’s always time to squeeze something else in, if you can just stay awake.

How to book the ultimate Vegas trip

• Discover more at Visit Las Vegas.
• Stays at he Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas start at $189.35 / approx. £142 per night including resort fee and taxes. Stays in the Terrace One Bedroom Suites with Fountain View starts from $246.49 / approx. £185 per night, including resort fee and taxes.
• Vegas Views helicopter tour by Maverick Helicopters start at £75 per person, see maverickhelicopter.com
• Book Vanderpumps in advance here
• Virgin Atlantic offers daily direct flights to Las Vegas from London Heathrow starting from £512*, and seasonal flights from Manchester Airport. *Prices subject to change.

Once upon a time, Primm, Nev., had three bustling casino resorts, shiny gas stations, a roller coaster and Bonnie and Clyde’s “death car.”

It was a bit surreal, said former visitor John Honell of West Covina: “You had this whole complex in the middle of the desert.”

Southern Californians traveling the arid stretches of the I-15 would see Primm pop up. As he drove to Sin City for bowling tournaments, Honell would stop and “drop a few coins” into the slot machines. It was a gambling oasis — a little less flashy and a little more affordable than Vegas and 45 minutes closer.

“I guess it worked for a while,” said Honell, 85.

But it works no longer. The last of the three casino resorts will close on July 4, owner Affinity Gaming confirmed to The Times this week.

Honell, a regular in the 1970s, saw the growth of a desert gamble: the expansion of the Primm property, in the dusty town once known as State Line, from Whiskey Pete’s gas station, bar and slot machines into three busy resorts.

The Nevada gambling hub south of Las Vegas along the 15 Freeway appears finished, though. Southern Californians who appreciated that it was a shorter drive now can find gambling much closer, at tribal casinos.

Las Vegas insider publication Las Vegas Locally posted a termination letter from Affinity Gaming’s affiliate, Primadonna Co. LLC, to employees who worked at Primm Valley.

The casino is closing down July 4, with all employment ending that day too.

Affinity Gaming declined to make an official comment.

The castle-shaped Whiskey Pete’s opened in 1977, followed by Primm Valley in 1990 and Buffalo Bill’s in 1994. Whiskey Pete’s was the first casino to close, in December 2024. Buffalo Bill’s Resort ended 24-7 operations on July 6, only opening when the casino’s concert venue, the Star of the Desert Arena, hosted special events.

David G. Schwartz, a gaming historian and professor at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, said Primm’s casinos were “built for an entirely different world.”

“Southern California is a huge market for Las Vegas and, in particular, it was once very attractive for those in the Inland Empire,” Schwartz said. “It was a way to trim 45 minutes off the drive — it was a 2-hour drive. It’s different math.”

Lights still glow on the Buffalo Bill’s Resort and Casino sign on Sunday, July 6, 2025 in Primm, NV. (Bridget Bennett / For The Times)

(Bridget Bennett/For The Times)

Primm was once one of Nevada’s more popular gambling resorts, a less expensive, slightly more kitschy alternative to Las Vegas that benefited from being closer than Sin City.

Primm Valley, Whiskey Pete’s and Buffalo Bill’s all hosted at one time the famed Bonnie and Clyde V-8 Ford riddled with more than 100 bullets in 1934.

Whiskey Pete’s offered a quick and affordable 24-hour IHOP, in comparison to Vegas’ pricier buffets, and Californians and Nevadans visited Primm Valley’s 100-store outlet mall, supported by shoppers who were brought by bus to the mall for free.

The three resorts enjoyed expansion and growth throughout the 2010s by utilizing low prices, gimmicks and attractions to lure guests.

Buffalo Bill’s was the biggest of the trio, boasting a buffalo-shaped pool and 592 rooms at its opening (the Bellagio has nearly 4,000 rooms) and eventually expanding to 1,242 rooms.

Buffalo Bill’s and its sister resorts closed in March 2020 when the pandemic hit, reopening between December 2022 and 2023. But they struggled to attract customers.

Although the COVID-19 pandemic hurt all Nevada casinos, that was only part of the reason for Primm’s decline. Schwartz said tribal casinos in Southern California saw their prospects soar as Primm’s hotels teeter-tottered.

California voters passed Proposition 1-A in 2000, which allowed tribal casinos to operate slot machines and erased limits on card games.

“Many of those people Primm was drawing from began to stay in Southern California, where the drives are just much shorter and the amenities much closer,” Schwartz said. “You see the same issue playing out at Laughlin along the Arizona border and Reno and Tahoe in Northern California.”

Shortly after Proposition 1-A’s passage, San Manuel was one of several tribal casinos in San Bernardino and Riverside counties that declared an arms race with Nevada.

Fantasy Springs Resort Casino in Indio, run by the Cabazon Band of Mission Indians, opened in December 2004. The tribe was the fourth between 2002 and 2004 to open or expand its operations, including Agua Caliente in Palm Springs, Morongo in Cabazon and the Pechanga Band of Luiseno Mission Indians in Temecula.

Most of these casinos have continued to build and expand their operations as revenue has continued to flow.

The Southern California tribal resorts are classified by the National Indian Gaming Commission, a gaming regulatory body, to be in the Sacramento region, which includes all resorts in California and Northern Nevada.

In 2014, the combined casinos contributed $7.9 billion in gross gaming revenue.

Ten years later, 87 tribal operations throughout two states combined for $12.1 billion, marking a modest 1.4% increase from 2023.

Yaamava’ Resort & Casino, run by the San Manuel Band of Mission Indians, sits in Highland, about 200 miles from Primm but less than half that distance from downtown L.A.

Yaamava’ completed a $760-million expansion in 2021, which added a 17-floor tower, three bars and about 1,700 new slots.

The 7,400 slot machines at Yaamava’ make the casino the West Coast’s largest, with 4,000 more slots than its Vegas peers. By square footage of gaming space, Yaamava is No. 4 in the nation and still the biggest on the West Coast.

“The decline has been part of a larger trend,” Schwartz said of Primm. “People are choosing options that most appeal to them.”