capital

The underrated ‘Capital of Christmas’ has everything you could want for a festive break but there’s also plenty more than just Christmas – including Stranger Things locations

Nestled in the south of Lithuania, Vilnius, the second largest city in the Baltic states, is a place where Christmas is celebrated with gusto.

Every nook and cranny of the city sparkles with festive lights, baubles, gifts, and all sorts of decorations you can imagine. The streets are festooned with Christmas trees, buskers strumming carols on their guitars, and everyone indulging in warm wine, soaking up the holiday cheer.

The city has earned the title ‘Capital of Christmas’, and it’s not hard to see why – they pull out all the stops when it comes to decking the halls.

I had the pleasure of visiting this enchanting city and was swept away by the festive euphoria. There’s a magical aura that permeates the city, making the spirit of Christmas palpable.

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As I wandered around, snowflakes gently falling, fairy lights twinkling, and shop fronts adorned with such stunning decorations that you can’t help but stop for a closer look.

A short flight from London City airport (with return fares starting at £33) transported me within hours to this vibrant and mystical Baltic city, steeped in rich history and home to over 50 churches, subterranean spas, numerous museums, and an arts quarter. It’s also gained fame as a filming location for Netflix’s hit series Stranger Things, with parts of season four shot here, including scenes in a now-defunct 100 year old prison.

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Vilnius is famed for the architectural splendour of its Old Town, one of Europe’s largest and best-preserved historical centres, earning it a UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1994. This heritage-rich area also hosts the city’s iconic Christmas market.

The European Parliament’s Christmas Cities Network crowned Vilnius as the Capital of Christmas, largely due to its internationally acclaimed Christmas trees. The Vilnius Christmas tree has topped the European Best Destinations list two years running.

For me, it was the picture-perfect Christmas markets that drew me to this city. The main Christmas market is nestled in the enchanting Cathedral Square, within the old town, and is renowned for its stunning, award-winning Christmas tree – a genuine 205-square-metre installation standing 20 metres tall.

The market is brimming with quaint wooden stalls offering sweet delicacies, mulled wine, and festive crafts.

You can enjoy a warming mulled wine or a hot chocolate for €7 each, but if you return your mug, you’ll receive a €2 refund, making these festive beverages a bargain at just €5 (roughly £4.60).

If all that wandering about works up an appetite for some authentic Lithuanian fare, you can sample regional specialities from the vendors, including traditional “kaladinis” chimney cakes, sweet curd doughnuts and plenty of pudding-style treats such as confectionery, gingerbread, doughnuts, hot chocolate and naturally mulled wine. The vendors also offer numerous handcrafted goods and locally-made products created specially for Christmas.

Adorned with fairy lights scattered throughout the market and featuring an enormous sparkling tree, the principal Christmas market is genuinely spectacular, but in typical Vilnius fashion, one market simply won’t suffice and the city plays host to ten different ones across the area. Once you’ve finished browsing the stalls, be sure to explore the stunning Jewish quarter within the Old Town district.

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Alternatively, if you’re seeking somewhere for supper, you might venture to Lokys, the city’s most established family-operated restaurant, which serves vibrant pink chilled beetroot soup with potatoes, alongside beaver casserole – genuine regional specialities of the area.

The Christmas market launched on 29th November and will remain in the square until 6th January, whilst you can discover the additional markets at the railway station, Hale Market and a rather unconventional market in Lukiški prison (yes, genuinely!).

The city adores Christmas so thoroughly that the national bank even introduced Vilnius’ own Christmas currency, enabling you to purchase goods from the Christmas markets using the festive tender which was revealed as red pine cones. Another yuletide attraction in the square is the two-storey Christmas carousel.

Standing at a towering 10 metres high, it’s been crafted by Italian artisans in a traditional style. Other jolly features to keep an eye out for in Vilnius include the ice rink in Town Hall Square and the Christmas train that whisks visitors on a 20-minute journey through the twinkling streets of Old Town Vilnius for a mere €1.80.

Book the trip

LOT Polish Airlines provides direct flights to Vilnius from London City airport. Ryanair and Wizz Air also offer non-stop flights from the UK.

Rooms at the Hotel Pacai start from €176 a night (approximately £153).

For more information about Vilnius, visit govilnius.lt.

SNOW-DUSTED fir trees line the streets, shiny red baubles dangle over shopfronts and enormous Nutcrackers stand to attention by the doors of cafes.

The city of Vilnius in Lithuania has been named this year’s Christmas Capital of Europe — and I couldn’t wait to unwrap it.

There’s festive fodder in every direction I turn and, unlike many European cities at Christmas, there are no obnoxiously loud rides or tacky grottos.

Instead, the capital of Lithuania celebrates the festive period with pure charm, transforming into a glittery wonderland as soon as it is acceptable to do so (generally in late-November).

Vilnius’s main attraction, an enormous decked-out Christmas tree, stands tall in Cathedral Square, accompanied by a traditional carousel and market stalls dishing out warm apple punch and pots of doughnuts drizzled in chocolate.

This tree has some competition, though. In early November each year, The Senator’s Passage, just up the road from Cathedral Square, receives its own grand tree.

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The owner tells me with a grin that it usually takes around 15 workers to drag the tree through the narrow passageway and dress it for the season.

It seemed worth the hassle though, with seven metres of green branches dripping in twinkling lights.

If you plan your travel dates well, you can visit for “Christmas Before Christmas”, where seasonal events take place throughout the city prior to the main event.

This year, the festivities took place on December 13 with performances from carol singers, festive tours and even a holiday-themed train and bus.

Your euros won’t be accepted on this day, though.

Christmas Before Christmas relies on a special currency — a red pine cone which visitors can swap for a warming cherry tea or a sweet treat.

There’s so much to keep you entertained during the day, from ice skating to strolls through wintry gardens, but the magic of Vilnius doesn’t truly comes to life until the sun goes down.

This is especially true for Konstantinas Sirvydas Square, which this year has an impressive 144 Christmas trees.

Delicious grub

Or, for a truly epic festive display, a must-see is the Poniuų Laimė in the Old Town’s Jewish Quarter.

The cafe selling delicate cakes and cookies decorates its front for each season, and this December it became the Orient Express, embellished with huge red velvet bows and suitcases.

If you’re looking for something a little different, however, you may want to swing by the Lukiskiu Kalejimas Christmas market set up in a former prison.

Eagle-eyed Stranger Things fans will recognise this as the filming location of the Russian prison where Hopper was held in the fourth series.

It looks a little different at this time of year, though, with locally-made drinks, teas and gifts being flogged from a once gloomy building that housed prisoners until as recently as 2019.

Of course, a festive getaway isn’t complete with some delicious grub.

I had never considered Lithuania to be a place for foodies — but in fact, Vilnius has four Michelin-star restaurants.

It was one simple snack that took the biscuit for me — kepta duona, which is essentially fried bread in garlic.

The crunchy, delicious treat is a bit like a meat-free pork scratching, but much tastier.

If you’re a fan of bagels, then stop by Baleboste, where I felt more like I was being welcomed into someone’s dining room than a Jewish cafe.

Here, the ring-shaped bread is served warm with just the right amount of sweetness and a sprinkling of poppy seeds.

I had mine with a pulled beef filling which comes with mustard and plenty of pickles.

This isn’t something locals will be enjoying at this time of year as traditionally in Lithuania, it’s common to fast in the run-up to December 24, and most families don’t eat meat in this period — even on Christmas Eve.

Instead, they get together for a 12-course evening dinner called Kucios where they feast on beetroot, dumplings, lots of fish, berries and nuts.

You can enjoy a taster of this feast at Ertlio Namas, a Michelin-Guide restaurant in the Old Town.

After that delicious spread, I practically rolled back to the Hotel Pacai which has spacious rooms with enormous bathtubs for when you need to warm up after wandering around the chilly city.

If you’re lucky, like I was, there might even be a sprinkling of snow outside the window come morning.

A PRETTY UK seaside town will be getting trains from London for the first time.

The operator Grand Central has launched the first-ever direct trains between Seaham and London.

There are now four direct services between Seaham and London King’s Cross in each direction, every day.

Before the service was launched, passengers travelling from Seaham would have to change trains to travel into London, taking the total journey time to four hours.

The new direct service sheds 30 minutes off of that journey time, taking around three and a half hours in total.

One-way tickets cost from £30.50 per person, when booked in advance.

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Chris Brandon, director at Grand Central, said: “For the first time in history, residents here have a direct, reliable connection to London — a connection that reflects the town’s growing ambition and needs.

“This launch reflects our mission to continue investing in the North East: through our £300million order of new trains, and through seeking increased track access rights, which will allow us to provide more services in the region for years to come.”

Grahame Morris, Member of Parliament for Easington, said: “The East Durham Coastline has been underused for decades, and I’m delighted that Grand Central has recognised the enormous potential of this route and worked hard to make it a reality.”

Seaham is located around a 17-minute drive from Sunderland in County Durham.

And the town is even home to a famous beach that stretches a mile-long and often features lots of sea glass, ideal for collecting.

Sea glass is man-made glass that at some point or another has ended up in the sea.

And when it does, it is ground down over the years and eventually washes up on the shore.

In fact, there’s more sea glass in Seaham than in other beach destinations.

This is because during the Victorian era there was a bottle factory nearby that used to put waste directly into the sea.

There is even a beach called Glass Beach, located at the front of the town.

One recent visitor said: “If you’re looking for a place to find treasure then this is the one!

“There’s loads to see here from beautiful glass and fossils to a friendly little robin that comes and sits with you while you hunt for treasure.”

But if you want to explore a sandy spot, then head to The Slope Beach which looks out at Seaham Lighthouse.

A recent visitor said: “A hidden Seaham gem, with a gently sloping sandy beach leading down to a protected sea, with great views of the lighthouse at the far end of the pier.

“Great parking, a freshwater tap at the top of the beach, and all the facilities of the marina right next door, including toilets and a fantastic array of cafes.

“A great trip out for the kids, or a peaceful few hours to one’s self when they’re in school. Lovely!”

The town itself then also features a number of places to grab a bite to eat, including a Wetherspoons pub.

Or just up from Seaham Beach you can head to the Crows Nest pub, where you can order mac and cheese or Hunter’s chicken for £11.79.

If you fancy fresh seafood, head to The Lamp Room with options including a surf and turf salad for £16.95 or a seafood linguine for £15.95.

One diner commented: “The food was amazing, fresh, and very tasty.

“We had fresh mussels with fries, and the sauce was delicious.”

In other UK destination news, the English seaside towns and cities getting multi-million pound upgrades next year – with new rides and attractions.

Plus, the 2,700-mile path that runs along pretty UK seaside towns is set to be the longest in the world.

The first full deployment of the U.S. Army’s new Sentinel A4 air defense radar will be in the area around Washington, D.C., also known as the National Capital Region (NCR). The A4 variant offers a significant boost in capability over preceding versions, especially for spotting and tracking lower and/or slower flying targets like cruise missiles and drones.

An Army officer discussed the capabilities of and plans for the road-mobile Sentinel A4, the formal designation of which is AN/MPQ-64A4, with Secretary Pete Hegseth during a show-and-tell at Redstone Arsenal in Huntsville, Alabama, this past weekend. Members of the media were also present. Hegseth conducted several engagements in the Huntsville area during his trip, which was primarily centered on a ceremony marking the designation of the arsenal as the new headquarters for U.S. Space Command (SPACECOM).

“The plan is to be in full-rate production [of the Sentinel A4] at the end of FY 26 [Fiscal Year 2026], sir, and our first fielding will be actually in the National Capital Region,” the Army officer told Hegseth, as can be heard in the video below. “In January, we’re sending a Sentinel A4 to the National Capital Region to start that immigration process earlier, so that when it is fielded late next year, we’re ready to go.”

War Sec. Pete Hegseth Visits The New Site For U.S. Space Command Headquarters In Huntsville, Alabama

The officer noted that the Army already has a Sentinel A4 radar in South Korea, representing an early operational capability. The deployment to the Korean Peninsula has already been providing valuable feedback for the planned full fielding of the sensor in the NCR next year. You can read more about what is known about the air defense network already in place in the NCR, which includes National Advanced Surface-to-Air Missile Systems (NASAMS) and Avenger air defense systems, as well as a wide array of sensors, in previous TWZ reporting. Existing variants of Sentinel are already regularly used in combination with NASAMS and Avenger.

In terms of the Sentinel A4’s capabilities, “what this radar does is provide 360-degree air surveillance, day or night, [in] adverse weather conditions and the most harsh environments, … [to] identify, track and classify cruise missiles, rotary-wing [aircraft], fixed-wing [aircraft], [and] UAS [uncrewed aerial systems],” the officer explained to Hegseth. It also has the ability to spot and track incoming artillery rockets, shells, and mortar rounds.

Sentinel A4: Bringing Next-Gen Radar Capability to the U.S. Army and Allies

The officer said that many of its more specific capabilities are classified. They did say that it offers a 75 percent increase in detection range over the previous AN/MPQ-64A3, and the ability to track many more targets simultaneously. Much of this is a product of the new active electronically scanned array (AESA) found on the Sentinel A4. As a general rule, AESA radars offer improvements in terms of range, fidelity of tracks, resistance to countermeasures, and overall situational awareness compared to mechanically-scanned types. Depending on how the array itself is configured, AESAs can also perform a much wider array of functions at once.

The Sentinel A4 “does have growth potential,” the Army officer highlighted to Secretary Hegseth during the event. “The current array that you see here is 60 percent populated, but we do have the ability to increase how much is in the array, which allows us to meet future threats.”

That the Sentinel A4’s true operational debut is set to be in the NCR is unsurprising, given the extreme importance of defending the skies over and around Washington, D.C. This is already by far the most heavily monitored and densely defended airspace in the United States.

At the same time, the U.S. military, as a whole, has made no secret of its growing concerns about drone and cruise missile threats, which are very much reflected in the new capabilities found on the new A4 variant of Sentinel.

There has been a particular surge in reported drone incursions over key military facilities and critical non-military infrastructure in the United States in recent years, a trend that is also being observed globally. TWZ has been the first to report on many such incidents. There are questions about the validity of a significant number of these reports, especially given the overlap with claimed sightings of so-called unidentified Aerial Phenomena (UAPs; previously referred to more commonly as unidentified flying objects). Still, the threats posed by drones, including small weaponized commercial types, are very real, and are only set to continue to expand in scale and scope, as TWZ has been calling attention to for years.

Cruise missile threats have also long been top of mind for the U.S. military, including in the context of preparing for potential attacks on the U.S. homeland. The increasing fielding of more capable cruise missiles, such as ones with stealthy features and/or hypersonic speeds, among near-peer competitors like China and Russia, as well as smaller adversaries, has further fueled those concerns.

It’s also worth noting that the NCR has seen a number of false alarm air defense scares over the years. Increased detection capability and general improved situational awareness could help with preventing, though not eliminating, such incidents in the future.

All this being said, the aerial threat ecosystem extends beyond the NCR, and the new capabilities offered by the Sentinel A4 radar will be relevant to Army operations globally. The service has plans to significantly expand its overall air defense force structure in the coming years.

It is possible that plans to send the Sentinel A4s to the NCR, specifically, also presage the deployment of other new air defense capabilities to the area. Sentinel radars are a primary sensor for the Army’s new middle-tier Enduring Shield air defense system, which currently uses the AIM-9X Sidewinder as its interceptor. The service is pushing to acquire a second interceptor option for Enduring Shield, primarily to offer increased capability against faster-flying cruise missiles. Overall, the system is analogous to NASAMS in many ways and would be well-suited to the NCR air defense mission.

The Army currently has two Enduring Shield platoons, one in South Korea and one at Joint Base Lewis-McChord in Washington State. The service is hoping to have a battalion’s worth of the systems by Fiscal Year 2027.

In general, the Army sees Enduring Shield as particularly important to reducing the immense strain on its highly in-demand Patriot surface-to-air missile systems. The service has said that Enduring Shield and Patriot could even be fielded together in composite units in the future. TWZ has been calling attention to the worrisome inadequacy of the Army’s Patriot force to meet current operational needs, let alone the requirements of any future high-end figure, for years now.

If nothing else, Army air defenders protecting the skies over and around Washington, D.C., are set to get an important boost in their ability to spot and track threats, especially cruise missiles and drones, in the coming year.

Contact the author: joe@twz.com