If you’re searching for a Sardinian city break with a difference, Cagliari has stunning Mediterranean beaches, flamingos and ancient history – and it’s just a short flight from the UK
Just 220 miles from Rome lies Sardinia, and in its south region, the city of Cagliari(Image: Getty)
If you’re contemplating a weekend escape this year, you’ve likely thought about one of Italy’s major destinations – timeless Rome or the enchanting cathedrals of Florence. Architecture, history, sunshine and some of the finest cuisine on the planet – Italian city breaks are difficult to surpass.
But here’s our suggestion – venture beyond the conventional and uncover something away from the masses, with even more on offer.
Roughly 220 miles from Rome sits Sardinia, and at the southern extremity the city of Cagliari is, according to my travel guide, “older than Rome”. It’s a city that combines multiple dimensions: ancient and contemporary, urban and natural, monumental and everyday.
Like Barcelona, it achieves the ideal balance between city and beach getaway. The beach, the largest stretch of sand I’ve witnessed in Europe, is merely 10 minutes drive from the centre, so you can transition from sipping cocktails in a rooftop bar in the Castello district, to barefoot walks along the shoreline.
And if you’re seeking a taste of nature, the salt flats – home to Cagliari’s flock of flamingoes – is a brief bus journey from the old town, reports OK!.
The historic core of the city is the Castello district, positioned on a limestone hill and surrounded by imposing walls. I had the privilege of exploring its delightful, narrow streets, and became captivated by the shaded piazzas and panoramic vantage points overlooking the Gulf of Angels.
While tourist favourites such as the Amalfi Coast and Rome continue to hog the limelight, Cagliari is steadily carving out a reputation as a must-visit destination — perfect for those seeking a hidden gem well away from the crowds. Here’s my ultimate itinerary.
Stay by the sea in Cagliari
You could always opt for the old town, but to truly soak up this coastal city, The MGallery Palazzo Tirso is a five-star boutique hotel tucked away in La Marina, one of Cagliari’s four historic quarters. From its rooftop terrace, you’ll be treated to stunning sea views alongside the magnificent sights of Castello.
For a holiday packed with rest and relaxation, Palazzo Tirso has everything you need, boasting a sauna, steam room, spa pool and a selection of L’Occitane-fuelled treatments. The 25-minute massage left me feeling as though I’d ascended into heaven.
The hotel also houses two restaurants: rooftop venue Cielo, offering all-day dining and aperitifs with DJs, and Terra, a genuinely gourmet spot showcasing prestigious recipes crafted by Palazzo Tirso‘s chefs.
My standout meal was at Sa Schironada, a charming little restaurant just a six-minute stroll from the Palazzo Tirso hotel. We shared a plate of traditional Sardinian bread and olive oil — which you simply can’t get enough of in Italy — and for my main, I tucked into a generous platter of mouth-wateringly delicious mussels in garlic and white wine sauce, accompanied by more Sardinian bread.
It was, needless to say, a glorious overload of carbs and seafood that left me fit to burst, but every single mouthful was absolutely worth it.
Spend a day flamingo spotting
Cagliari is extraordinary for its natural surroundings, so it’s essential you explore the Molentargius Salt Flats, where colonies of pink flamingos make their home. They’re situated within a protected park – a rare example of a lagoon ecosystem nestled inside an urban environment.
Alongside flamingos, you could also catch sight of the great white pelican, a cattle egret colony or, if you’re fortunate, the purple swamphen, with its metallic blue plumage and scarlet beak.
To enter the park, you can rent a bike for approximately €15 per day, or take a guided mini bus tour through the park, where they’ll provide a tour guide and a pair of binoculars.
Exploring the beach
Poetto Beach extends for several kilometres, and it’s among the defining features of local life. Far more than simply a beach, it’s a social hub: bustling throughout the year, where sports, relaxation, and community spirit converge.
The sheer scale of Poetto left me stunned. I’m accustomed to town beaches that are compact and pebbly, but this beach’s scenic expanse is magnificent.
From it, you also enjoy a stunning view of the Devil’s Saddle, the promontory at the precise centre of the Gulf of Angels and – according to legend – the location of the battle between good and evil. Good must have triumphed because the place is paradise.
Cocktails with a Michelin-starred chef
In an immersive cocktail experience courtesy of the Palazzo Tirso hotel, you can savour cocktail pairings crafted by Michelin-starred chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij, aka Chef Pam – who received The World’s Best Female Chef status in 2024.
Her signature creations include Caviar-Crowned Tartare, Sun-Kissed Crab, and Squid’s Midnight Dip. Bite-sized masterpieces bursting with character, these are far from ordinary bar snacks.
Every piece is carefully designed to complement the drink alongside it, transforming an evening tipple into a truly curated occasion.
For wine enthusiasts, just 35 minutes north, tucked away amongst the rolling hills of Donori, lies Tenute Maestrale, a contemporary winery surrounded by undisturbed vineyards producing superb white, rosé and red wines, with tastings of three wines and traditional snacks starting from just £28.
When to visit Sardinia’s capital
Cagliari is stunning throughout the year, particularly during summer when the beaches and bustling streets truly come alive. For a genuine festival atmosphere, The Feast of Saint Efisio takes place annually from 1st-4th May.
It’s an 80km pilgrimage from Cagliari to Nora, retracing the route of Saint Efisio’s martyrdom. Thousands of participants, adorned in traditional costumes, accompany the saint’s statue on elaborately decorated ox-drawn carts.
It ranks amongst the longest and most ancient pilgrimages in the world, with the city traversed by a procession of 2800 people in traditional dress from across Sardinia, followed by 270 horsemen of Campidano, the Militiamen and the Guardiania.
How to book your Cagliari getaway
Rooms at MGallery Palazzo Tirso begin at £240 for bed and breakfast. You can reserve directly via the hotel’s website, or via Booking.com or Expedia.