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Struggle With Conscience Was Gore’s Biggest Vietnam Battle

Albert Gore Jr. was 21 that summer of 1969 when he confronted Vietnam, the draft and an early test of his manhood.

He had just graduated from Harvard, where he joined in anti-war protests that had split college campuses across the country. He had spent his summers on the family farm outside of this small town, and he knew that many of the local boys were heading off to the Army.

Over the next two months Gore would struggle with a decision:

Should he follow his ideals and defy the draft, or join the tens of thousands of other young men gone to war?

On a more personal level, should he refuse to go and risk hurting his father’s next reelection bid to the U.S. Senate, where Albert Gore Sr. was one of the nation’s leading critics of the war? Evading the draft might make his father look unpatriotic.

His search for an answer would take him from the family farm in Tennessee to the doorstep of a Harvard instructor on Cape Cod, Mass. It would plunge him into a series of long, wrenching debates that failed to ease his dilemma.

Finally, it delivered him, about to be drafted, to the federal building in Newark, N.J., where surprised Army recruiters listened as he told them who he was and what he intended to do–sign up.

Those crucial months in 1969 offer insights into the man who would become vice president of the United States–and who now aspires to the presidency.

What emerges is a portrait of a young man discovering the cruel contradictions between his beliefs and sense of duty, between loyalty to family and commitment to a cause. His deliberations show the slow and painstaking approach that has become a trademark of his decision-making style as a political leader.

Gore’s anguish over the decision also provides a glimpse into his unsettled place in the world of privilege; he would not exploit his special advantages but would not fully reject them either.

Unsettled Place Amid Privilege

Many young men with famous names or elite educations–and many without them–were able to avoid the war in Vietnam if not always active duty. In 1969, 21.8 million men from the ages of 18 to 26 were eligible for the draft. About 283,000 were inducted into the armed services that year.

Rather than seek an out, Gore went voluntarily. He became Spc. 5 Gore in Vietnam, where he was stationed with the 20th Engineers Brigade headquarters near Saigon. In some ways, he was one of the guys, playing poker and drinking, smoking cigarettes and sometimes marijuana with his buddies.

But in other ways, he was apart from the fray. He served as a news reporter and not a combat soldier. His reporting duties took him to potentially dangerous spots. But like some other servicemen in support specialties, he was never in actual combat, his fellow soldiers say.

Several of his colleagues remember they were assigned to make sure this son of a prominent politician was never injured in the war. After five months, he returned home at his own request when his job was being phased out.

Nevertheless, Gore the politician over the years sometimes has been inclined to describe his Vietnam days as though he was in the thick of the war.

On the campaign trail today, while he suggests no combat heroics, he nonetheless mentions his service in Vietnam proudly. Addressing 4,000 veterans last month at the national American Legion convention in Anaheim, he spoke of the curse of that war and how “few respected our service, much less welcomed us home.”

But Gore also said, “Some of the greatest times of my whole life were times spent with my buddies in the Army.”

Gore declined to be interviewed for this article.

In the 2000 presidential campaign, the Vietnam draft experience continues to be a benchmark for Gore’s generation of national leaders. The old themes of the war surface so often that it is clear they never left.

John McCain, the son and grandson of Navy admirals, is a Republican senator from Arizona. But he is better known as a war hero; his book about his 5 1/2 years as a prisoner of war in Vietnam, issued in conjunction with his campaign, is a bestseller.

McCain’s main rival for the Republican nomination, Texas Gov. George W. Bush, missed Vietnam by serving in the Texas Air National Guard–a slot critics say he received through connections from his father, then a U.S. congressman.

Gore’s opponent in the Democratic contest, former Sen. Bill Bradley of New Jersey, served in the Air Force Reserve from 1967 to 1978 and saw no active duty.

Harvard Brimming With Anti-War Fervor

Gore, the youngest of these candidates, was still in college when public support for the war began to sour. Harvard, like many campuses, was a caldron of anti-war fervor.

John Tyson, one of Gore’s Harvard friends, said he and Gore both signed anti-war petitions in the dining hall, attended rallies and talked for hours about what they saw as the misguided pursuit of an unwinnable conflict.

“He was against the war,” Tyson recalled, “but he wasn’t one of those guys who considered himself a revolutionary, who was against America.” He became “enraged,” Tyson recalled, when some protesters talked about securing some dynamite.

Gore, viewing Vietnam as more than a local conflict, worried about whether it would become a flash point for nuclear war. “He had scope,” Tyson said. He added that Gore “listened to his father. He emulated him.”

In the summer before his senior year, Gore helped his father write his landmark speech against the war at the 1968 Democratic National Convention in Chicago.

The senator noted that 25,000 U.S. soldiers–less than half the final death count–had died in Southeast Asia. “What harvest do we reap from their gallant sacrifice?” he asked.

Outside, anti-war protesters clashed with police in what became a major turning point for the peace movement at home.

Martin Peretz, who taught Gore in a seminar on the political culture of post-World War II America, said “very, very few” of Gore’s classmates went into the service. Many sought other ways to stay out of the service.

So few made the journey from Harvard to Vietnam that when one of Gore’s friends, freshman Denmark Groover III, interrupted his studies to join the military, many of his classmates ridiculed him.

Gore wrote his girlfriend, Tipper Aitcheson, that, while he admired his friend’s “courage and rashness,” he did not know whether his own views would allow him to follow Groover’s example.

“It’s wrong, we’re wrong,” he wrote, according to letters published last week in Talk magazine. “A lot of people won’t admit it and never will, but we’re wrong.”

By the time Gore graduated in June 1969, anti-war sentiment drove a hundred angry students to walk out of the commencement ceremony. Others tore up their diplomas; half of the senior class raised clenched fists.

When Gore left school, his student deferment expired. He was staring straight into the draft. Like others opposed to the war, his options were stark. He could apply for conscientious-objector status. He could try to land a spot in a reserve or National Guard unit, although the waiting lists were long. He could flee to Canada or end up in jail.

Many of the sons of Carthage were already in Vietnam. One of them, James H. Wilson, had been killed earlier that year, on Gore’s 21st birthday.

“I don’t want to spend any more time over here than I have to,” Wilson had written in his last letter home. In all, eight young men from Carthage and surrounding Smith County–whose population then was 15,000–died over there.

“This is a small rural county, and there always seemed to be a load of them going, five or six or seven at a time,” said Edward S. Blair, a boyhood chum of Gore’s.

“A lady ran the local draft board, she was the supervisor, and she would send notices out. Then a group of boys would catch the bus at the Trailways station near the old river bridge and go to Nashville for their exams.

“It would have gone down badly had he [Gore] not gone,” said Blair, now the U.S. marshal in Nashville.

But Gore was a product of two worlds: rural Tennessee and political Washington. If the norm for boys from the Volunteer State of Tennessee was to enlist, the standard was much different for the sons of lawmakers.

A report from that time by Congressional Quarterly showed that 234 sons of senators and congressmen had reached draft age during the Vietnam era. Half of them received deferments. Of the rest, only 28 went to Vietnam, 19 into combat.

The subject of privilege was all the more apparent in a hit song in 1969 by Creedence Clearwater Revival. Gore loved rock ‘n’ roll and memorized the lyrics of many songs, including “Fortunate Son.” He told friends the refrain haunted him:

It ain’t me, it ain’t me,

I ain’t no senator’s son, son.

It ain’t me, it ain’t me,

I ain’t no fortunate one, no.

But now was decision time, and Gore began to turn to those closest to him. Sometimes he seemed on the brink of a decision but then would suddenly reach out for more guidance.

A first stop was at the family farm.

Sen. Al Gore Sr., interviewed in a video for use in his son’s current presidential campaign, recalled the visit.

“He and I took a walk back on the farm. Then we came back in here and had lunch.” Suddenly, the father remembered, his son stood up and announced, “I believe I’ll take a walk. Alone.”

“So,” the senator recalled, “he walked to the bluff back of the farm and came in and his mother and I were seated in here, continuing to discuss the matter.

“We asked him and recommended to him to use his own judgment. His mother and I assured him we would support his decision whatever it was. But it was his decision. And I particularly asked him to not take into consideration any political matter as his decision might affect me. Whether he did take that into consideration, I don’t know. I hope not.”

After his solitary stroll, his son walked back into the house and blurted out, “I’ve made up my mind. I’m going. I’ll volunteer tomorrow.”

But he hesitated, and, joined by Tipper, next sought out his former instructor Peretz at his home on Cape Cod.

It was the weekend of the first moonwalk. When Gore wasn’t watching television, he asked Peretz how he could be true to himself without endangering his father’s anti-war position–or the life of someone he knew from Tennessee.

“ ‘My draft board is small,’ ” Peretz quoted Gore as saying. “ ‘If I don’t go, someone I played baseball with or went to church with or shoveled horseshit with will go in my place.’ ”

Peretz, now chairman of New Republic magazine, said he never advised students on how to handle the draft, and Gore left, still uncertain.

Soon after, he took a train to Newark, N.J., where he joined Harvard pal Tyson at a downtown diner. They ate lunch, then talked long enough to get hungry again.

Gore was eating one French fry at a time. Should he go or shouldn’t he?

Abruptly, Gore sprung to his feet, Tyson said. “He was ready.”

They hurried the few blocks to the nearby federal building and up to the Army recruiting station on the fourth floor.

Astonishment at Recruiting Office

Sgt. Dess Stokes ran the office, and he and his recruiters were astonished to see who walked in, he recalled. They all knew of Sen. Gore, especially Stokes, who had already done one tour in Vietnam and, like many soldiers, shared the senator’s opposition to the war.

In the recruiting station, Stokes handed Gore some paperwork and explained how volunteering for the draft, rather than waiting to be inducted, could keep him out of the infantry. Noting that Gore was a Harvard man, Stokes told him he could get into communications, maybe become an Army reporter.

Having reached the moment, Gore stepped away and telephoned his father. When he returned, he signed the papers. He was in the Army.

His two-year hitch was to run until August 1971, and his first assignment after basic training was in the Army media pool at Ft. Rucker, Ala. There he learned to write press releases and short newspaper stories.

Richard Abalos, who bunked with Gore at Ft. Rucker, had a tan 1962 Chevy four-door, and many in the unit would pile in and drive to Panama City, Fla., renting a dilapidated beach house for the weekend. They would play bridge and poker, barbecue steaks and drink cheap beer and wine, including one inexpensive label called Tickle Me Pink.

Gore has admitted that he smoked marijuana in the Army; there was plenty of pot to pass around. “It usually was on the beach in Florida,” said Guenter “Gus” Stanisic. “But hell, the MPs [military police] smoked. Just about everybody in the Army smoked.”

In April 1970, Gore was named Post Soldier of the Month, a citation awarded to soldiers who demonstrated leadership qualities. The honor came with a $50 savings bond.

A month later, in a ceremony at the National Cathedral in Washington, he married Tipper.

By summer, his father–who died last year–was being challenged for his Senate seat by Rep. William Brock, a Chattanooga Republican and supporter of the war.

Brock said that young Gore’s decision to enlist did not appear to help or hurt his father. “I didn’t see any change with what young Albert did,” Brock said.

But the Gore campaign tried its best to show that Sen. Gore, while against the war, was still a patriot. The team produced a television commercial in which the senator rode up on a white horse and told Al, dressed in Army fatigues, “Son, always love your country.”

When Gore received his orders for Vietnam, just five weeks before the November 1970 election, his father announced it publicly: “Like thousands of other Tennessee boys, he volunteered. . . . Like other fathers, I am proud.”

But the orders to Vietnam were delayed, and Gore would not ship out until Christmas. The family believed President Nixon postponed the orders to deny Sen. Gore any political boost from having a son in Vietnam on election day.

After three decades in Congress, Gore lost to Brock by 4% of the vote. And by the end of 1970, his son was in Vietnam.

Gore arrived in Vietnam nearly three years after the Tet Offensive, the so-called turning point in the war. By that time, the U.S. troop withdrawals ordered by Nixon had begun, and South Vietnamese forces were taking over a larger share of the fighting.

But U.S. forces were continuing their bombing campaign against North Vietnam and also conducting raids into Laos and Cambodia. Although both sides had reached a stalemate, the war would drag on several more years.

Though far from the action, young Gore was shaken by what he saw. “When and if I get home from Vietnam,” he wrote his friend Abalos, “I’m going to divinity school to atone for my sins.”

Other soldiers with long experience in Vietnam said that Gore was treated differently from his fellow enlistees. Two of them recalled that before Gore arrived Brig. Gen. Kenneth B. Cooper advised them that a senator’s son would be joining the outfit.

H. Alan Leo said soldiers were ordered to serve as Gore’s bodyguards, to keep him out of harm’s way. “It blew me away,” Leo said. “I was to make sure he didn’t get into a situation he could not get out of. They didn’t want him to get into trouble. So we went into the field after the fact [after combat actions], and that limited his exposure to any hazards.”

Cooper, however, said Gore “didn’t get anything he shouldn’t have.”

Gore covered the 20th Engineers Brigade, based 30 miles northeast of Saigon, as it cleared jungle and built and repaired roads and bridges in the war zone.

In his most ambitious piece, he re-created a battle at a fire support base code-named Blue near the Cambodian border, which a group of Viet Cong had tried to overrun.

“On the night of February 22nd, there was no moon,” Gore wrote. “The men sacked out early as usual, soon after the movie was over–’Bloody Mama’ with Shelley Winters as the maniac murderess–the guards were posted as usual–the password was ‘four.’ ”

‘He Took Risks’ During Tour

Fire Support Base Blue was as close as Gore came to combat. Mike Roche, editor of the engineers’ Castle Courier newspaper, said it took courage to go to the fire base, even if the battle was over.

“He was tanned and he had the bleached-out fatigues and . . . he was doing war-related stories,” Roche said. “He took risks.”

Veterans said a standard tour in Vietnam was 12 months; Gore was out in five. Early releases were not uncommon at the time, though. The 20th Engineers was departing Vietnam, which meant the Army no longer needed a reporter assigned to the brigade.

Gore also was approaching the last months of his two-year commitment. In March, with less than three months in Vietnam, he requested an early release and was told the next day he could leave in May to return to school.

When he left Vietnam, Gore flew to Oakland, along with Army pal Bob Delabar. At the airport bar, they hoisted drinks and parted ways. “We both got smashed,” Delabar remembered. “And it wasn’t on beer.”

Gore enrolled in Vanderbilt University’s divinity school but stayed only a year and left to take a job in Nashville as a reporter for the Tennessean, where he worked for four years.

When the House seat from his dad’s old district opened up in 1976, Gore ran and won. He later was elected to his father’s old Senate seat. The Army and Vietnam came up in his campaigns; he often portrayed his experience as more dangerous than it truly was.

In 1988, running for president, he told Vanity Fair magazine, “I took my turn regularly on the perimeter in these little firebases out in the boonies. Something would move, we’d fire first and ask questions later.”

He told the Washington Post: “I was shot at. I spent most of my time in the field.”

“I carried an M-16 . . . ,” he told the Baltimore Sun. “I pulled my turn on the perimeter at night and walked through the elephant grass and I was fired upon.”

For the Weekly Standard, he described flights aboard combat helicopters. “I used to fly these things with the doors open, sitting on the ledge with our feet hanging down. If you flew low and fast, they wouldn’t have as much time to shoot you.”

Any location in Vietnam was potentially dangerous during the war. But eight men who served there with Gore said in separate interviews that he was never in the middle of a battle. Gore himself has toned down descriptions of his wartime activity during the current campaign; he now emphasizes that he was in Vietnam as a news reporter and not as a combat soldier.

As he runs for the presidency this time, old Army pals sometimes show up at political events. Abalos appeared at a Gore rally in San Antonio; Delabar sat in the front row at the American Legion convention in Anaheim.

His enduring ties to his Army buddies appear to reflect an inner connection between Gore the reluctant soldier and Gore the national politician and presidential candidate.

At the American Legion convention, he told the veterans, “There will always be the bond between who we were and who we are.”

Times researchers John Beckham and Edith Stanley and staff writer Elizabeth Shogren contributed to this story.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

How They Served All presidential contenders except for Elizabeth Hanford Dole were eligible for the draft during the Vietnam War. The following are their records, or lack of them, and the reasons:

Republicans

Gary Bauer: No military service; student deferment

Patrick J. Buchanan: None; student, medical deferments

Texas Gov. George W. Bush: Texas Air National Guard; no overseas duty

Dole: None; not subject to draft

Steve Forbes: New Jersey National Guard, 1970-76; no combat duty

Sen. Orrin G. Hatch of Utah: None; sole remaining heir deferment

Alan Keyes: None; student deferment, then high draft number

Sen. John McCain of Arizona: Navy pilot; prisoner of war in North Vietnam for 5 1/2 years

*

Democrats:

Former Sen. Bill Bradley: U.S. Air Force Reserve, 1967-78; no active duty

Vice President Al Gore: Army journalist, 1969-71; six months in Vietnam; no combat duty

*

Independent

Sen. Bob Smith of New Hampshire: Navy, 1965-67, including one year in Vietnam; Naval Reserve, 1962-65 and 1967-69; no combat duty

*

Sources: Time/CNN and Houston Chronicle

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Hong Kong Issues One Of The Biggest Digital Green Bonds

In mid-November, the Hong Kong government priced an approximately HK$10 billion ($1.3 billion) tokenized green bond offering. It is the first global government issuance to permit settlement via digital fiat currencies and one of the largest digital bonds issued globally.

The Hong Kong Monetary Authority, the territory’s de facto central bank and bank regulator, issued the bond in four tranches across several currencies. The Hong Kong dollar and yuan tranches can be settled using e-HKD and e-CNY, digital versions of those currencies based on blockchain technology, alongside traditional settlement methods.

Sovereign tokenized bonds indicate financial centers no longer compete on just cost or liquidity, “they are now competing on infrastructure,” says Dor Eligula, co-founder of BridgeWise. “Hong Kong’s move accelerates a shift toward markets where data is auditable in real-time, and settlement becomes a feature rather than a friction. That ultimately reshapes the global hierarchy of capital markets.”

“Riding on our established strengths in financial services, this issuance will further consolidate Hong Kong’s status as a leading green and sustainable finance hub,” said Christopher Hui Ching-yu, secretary for financial services and the treasury, in the November 11 announcement.

Specifically, investors purchasing the HK$2.5 billion, two-year tranche would receive 2.5% in annual interest for two years. The 2.5 billion yuan ($351 million), five-year tranche yielding 1.9% annually, with the $300 million, three-year tranche returning 3.6%, and the €300 million ($348 million) four-year tranche paying 2.5% annually.

The offering drew total demand of more than HK$130 billion, with subscriptions from a range of international institutional investors, including multinational banks, investment banks, insurers, and asset management firms, according to an HKMA prepared statement.

The current bond offering will finance and refinance projects under the government’s Green Bond Framework. The government issued two batches of tokenized green bonds—an HK$800 million batch in February 2023 and another worth around HK$6 billion in February 2024.

The latest issuance extends the tenor up to five years. Compared with previous issuances, the number of investors has also “expanded markedly,” according to the HKMA.

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The major airport that could become the second biggest in the UK ahead of huge expansion plans with 51million passengers

A PLAN to expand one UK airport has been approved – meaning it could become the second busiest in the country.

In 2024, the airport saw almost 30million passengers, but with the new plans could see 20million more.

London Stansted wants to expand to welcome 20million additional passengers by 2040Credit: Alamy
But this won’t require any additional runways or physical expansionCredit: Alamy

The airport in question is London Stansted in Essex which has plans for more flights, but no structural changes.

London Stansted could rise to become the UK’s second busiest airport, rather than the fourth, after councillors agreed to increase its annual passenger numbers to 51million.

The owner, Manchester Airports Group’s, latest plan is to increase passenger capacity at the airport to between 48 and 51million people per year by 2040.

In comparison, London Gatwick sees between 40 to 43million passengers each year.

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While you might think that the airport would need an additional runway, there are no plans to build one.

There won’t be a second runway, or exceed the airport’s limit of 274,000 flights a year.

The way it will increase its passengers is by accommodating larger planes.

On December 17, 2025, Uttlesford District Council’s Planning Committee ruled in favour of the application.

The airport currently serves flight across 40 countries, and is already working on an expansion costing a £1.1billion.

This work that started in 2025 is expected to be finished in two to three years and includes more seating areas and new shops, bars and restaurants.

London Stansted could see more travellers through its terminal than Gatwick AirportCredit: Alamy

It also includes a larger security hall, more check-in desks and a new baggage reclaim carousel.

Another London airport preparing for expansion is the busiest in the country; London Heathrow.

The £33billion plan for Heathrow Airport to create a third runway was given the green light earlier this year.

And ministers backed plans from the airports owners that would see the M25 moved to make way for the addition.

The Heathrow proposals involve building a 3,500-metre runway and a new M25 tunnel and bridges to be built 130 metres west of the existing motorway.

It is estimated to cost £33 billion, including £1.5 billion on re-routing the M25.

This would see nearby villages like Longford and Harmondsworth demolished.

It will see Heathrow’s capacity increase to 756,000 flights and 150million passengers per year.

For more on airports, here are two major UK airports to be much easier to travel to – after thousands caught out with strict £100 fines.

Plus, this mega £27billion airport set to open in 2032 as ‘Heathrow and Dubai rival’ reveals new name.

By accommodating larger planes, London Stansted could become the second busiest UK airportCredit: Alamy

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Best World Cup city for fans that’s 66% cheaper than biggest rip-off host

The 2026 World Cup will be held across three countries, and there’s one city using its stadium, which has been named the cheapest destination to visit, with affordable hotels

Football fans are gearing up for a major sporting event as the 2026 World Cup is just months away, and one of the major talking points is price.

England fans were left facing prices starting at £200 for the Group opener with Croatia and over £4,000 for a World Cup final seat, before FIFA made a small concession this week. The footballing body released a new set of cut-price World Cup tickets in the wake of the backlash, now guaranteeing a range of tickets at a fixed cost of £45 for every game at next summer’s tournament.

The cost of travel to the United States, Mexico, or Canada, and the eye-watering price of accommodation once there, means a trip is beyond the means of many hardcore football supporters, even if they manage to obtain one of the cheap tickets.

Happily, there is one host city in particular that bucks the hefty price-tag trend.

Monterrey in Mexico has been named the most affordable host destination to visit during the World Cup. According to Expedia’s Fan Travel Outlook which looked at Hotels.com data, the average daily rate of a hotel in Monterrey is £179, making it the most affordable of all the World Cup hosts.

At its stunning Estadio BBVA stadium, where the Cerro de la Silla mountain hangs over the pitch, four matches will be played. Teams including Tunisia, Japan, South Africa and South Korea will take to the turf.

On match days next June, there are some great deals to be had in Monterrey. They include:

  • MV Suites, book on Hotels.com from £42 a night, a double room three miles from the stadium
  • Loft MN960 Mty, book on Hotels.com from £83 per night for a room with two double beds in a city centre apartment
  • Ibis Monterrey Valle, book on Hotels.com from £387 per night for one standard double room
  • Autentico Monterrey, book on Hotels.com from £279 per night for one standard room that sleeps two
  • Best Western Plus Monterrey Colon, book on Hotels.com from £320 per night for one standard room that sleeps four

The average hotel room cost in Monterrey is in stark contrast to the cost of a hotel in Vancouver, is currently setting back the average fan £475 for a one night stay.

Monterrey is set against the backdrop of the majestic Sierra Madre mountains, with the addition of parks like Chipinque, making it an ideal destination for hiking, biking, or taking a stroll around the nearby waterfalls. The city itself is modern, with a major industrial and business hub; yet, its culture and food scene, boasting local cuisine, is not to be missed.

Elsewhere, visitors can take advantage of the shopping opportunities at various outlets, explore museums like MARCO, and stroll through the vibrant streets. However, with sprawling landscapes and mountains surrounding Monterrey, the outdoor activities and hiking opportunities may be just what you need.

Mexico City was also named the best value for money during the World Cup. So if you’re hoping to catch a game and save some extra money, these, along with Monterrey, could be your best option.

Head of Expedia Group brands public relations, Melanie Fish, said: “The moment team draws were made, fans swarmed the Expedia app to make travel plans, with football-crazed nations like England leading the front line.

“Expedia’s Fan Travel Outlook is here to help fans come for football, stay for more: road-trip between host cities, fly into alternative airports, don’t forget holiday homes for extra space and use Expedia’s price tracking tool to score the amazing deals.

“The majority of host cities are seeing a surge in searches and prices. Some hotels closest to the stadiums are expected to sell out, so fans who want to make the trip should book sooner rather than later. If your plans aren’t set yet, use the Hotels.com Free Cancellation filter to secure a refundable rate before your options run out.”

For more information or to book your trip for the World Cup next year, you can visit the Expedia or Hotels.com websites.

The 2026 World Cup will kick off on June 11, as 48 football teams compete for their chance to win the coveted trophy for their country, with the final match scheduled for July 19. The World Cup will take place across 16 stadiums, spread across three destinations: 11 in the United States, two in Canada and three in Mexico.

Do you have a travel story to share? Email webtravel@reachplc.com

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I live in one of Europe’s biggest tourist trap cities

WHEN it comes to tasty food and drink, incredible historical sites to glorious art, and impressive fountains, Rome has it all.

But it can be a place where the hordes of tourists are easy targets, from being lured into inauthentic restaurants to expensive souvenir shops – so Sun Travel has spoken to a local expert to see just how Brits can avoid that, and discover where to go instead.

Rome is beautiful but tourists can fall victim to things like overpriced restaurantsCredit: Getty
Sun Travel got the inside track from Gabriele loseffini, the General Manager of a hotel in RomeCredit: Gabriele loseffini

Gabriele loseffini who is the General Manager at Generator Rome, a hotel minutes away from iconic Colosseum and Roma Termini Station, has got some top tips for us.

First up, is food, which let’s face it, is part of the reason Brits travel to Italy. Gabriele told Sun Travel: “For authentic Roman cuisine, try Trattoria da Enzo, Hosteria Grappolo d’oro or Armando al Pantheon.

“Testaccio Market is another must-visit – a lively spot for street food, local produce and even an opportunity to go on a guided food tour with all the best recommendations.

“I would always recommend the Centrale Montemartini, a culturally rich museum where classical statues are displayed amongst industrial machinery.

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“The space is quiet and well-lit allowing, providing a haven from the rush of the city where you can experience the art.  For drinks, Enoteca il Piccolo and Vanda are excellent wine bars offering an intimate atmosphere both with an extensive wine menu.

“Those with a sweet tooth will love the family-run Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti.”

If you go during the summertime and fancy a cool down with some gelato, Gabriele says to check out La Romana or Gelateria Fassi both of which are loved by locals.

Gelateria Fassi is recognised as Italy‘s oldest gelateria and was established in 1880 – it serves classic flavours like the classic Stracciatella, pistachio, lemon, strawberry, chocolate and hazelnut.

In popular cities, especially in peak summertime, you’re likely to be wading through crowds.

If that’s something you’ll want to avoid in Rome then steer clear of the Colosseum and Pantheon and head to these spots on Gabriele’s radar instead.

Trattoria da Enzo is an authentic Italian restaurant close to River TiberCredit: Alamy
The ancient town of Tivoli is beautiful and will be less crowdedCredit: Alamy

Gabriele said: “To avoid the crowds, visiting the Aventine Hill and looking through the keyhole at the Knights of Malta is an excellent option.

“Ostia Antica is also amazing, an old city just outside Rome. It’s like a mini-Pompeii but far less crowded. And the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj is a beautiful gallery that is significantly quieter than the Vatican Museums.

“Wandering through local areas such as Testaccio and Garbatella is also perfect to get a sense of the Italian community with its authentic streets and restaurants.”

“Don’t feel like you have to stick to the city of Rome either, just a short drive away are beautiful places like Tivoli is an ancient town filled with beautiful gardens and is only about 30 minutes away from Rome. You can explore the ruins of Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este. 

“Another great day trip would be to Bracciano. Less than an hour from Rome you can explore the medieval streets, see the volcanic lake and the well-preserved castle Castello Orsini-Odescalchi.”

If you’d like to swap city for city, then Florence is another option where you can see landmarks like the famous Ponte Vecchio Bridge and Duomo di Firenze.

While you’re there, Gabriele also said to make sure you stop by Trattoria Sergio Gozzi for a taste of traditional Tuscan dishes.

Looking at the menu, Trattoria Sergio Gozzi serves filled tortellacci, Tuscan stews and steak.

Gelateria Fassi is considered to be Italy’s oldest gelateriaCredit: Google maps
The old city of Ostia Antica is just outside Rome with well-preserved ruinsCredit: Alamy Stock Photo

When it comes to accommodation, of course Gabriele has one hotel that trumps all the others in the city.

He said: “My favourite place to stay in the city would be of course Generator Rome, as it’s close to the Colosseum and Termini Station, so it makes an excellent base to explore.

“Generator’s Roman house has guest experience at its core, with stylish and comfortable rooms that offer an ideal option for those looking for an authentic Roman stay.

“During the warm season the rooftop terrace also has incredible views of the city and is the perfect place to relax once aperitivo hour hits.”

Gabriele works at Generator Rome which is a great location for anyone staying in the cityCredit: Generator Rome

Borough Market is a tourist trap right here in the UK – but Sun Travel has some authentic recommendations for you…

Kara Godfrey, Deputy Travel Editor said: “If you really want to try some of Borough Market’s best treats without the huge price tag – check out Too Good To Go. They have everything from Bread Ahead to cheese mongers.

“My favourite place to eat is El Pastor – one of two restaurants (the second at Kings Cross) where the tacos are huge and the horchata is deliciously refreshing.

“While not as cheap as they used to be, the All That Falafel van is a great quick eat that will fill you up all day, with a wrap being around £6.

“If you want a fancier drink, you’ll find me in Swift. Its small, but the bar crew are always happy to make you something off the menu (not that you’ll need it, with a whole book of options).”

Lisa Minot, Head of Sun Travel added: “Well it has to be Boro Bistro for me.

“I’ve been a loyal fan of the cosy Boro Bistro for more than a decade. This cute independent, fiercely French bar and restaurant has rarely changed in all those years.”

Veronica LorraineGardening Editor and Associate Head of Features, told us: “Tabard Street Food Market is a proper hidden gem.

“Forget the chaos of actual Borough market – this has five or six stalls every lunchtime, is loved by locals – always a good sign – and serves everything from Filipino and Thai food to Jerk chicken, Falafal wraps, Souvlaki and Philly Steaks.

Travel Reporter Alice Penwill revealed her favourite spot: “Being fairly new to the area, when I ventured out for lunch, I was quite happy when I found a quiet spot away from the very busy Borough Market.

“Just a 10 minute walkaway on Crucifix Lane, I discovered Kin + Deum which is home to tasty Thai dishes like classic Pad Thai, pineapple rice, peanut satay and of course a katsu curry.

“They’re all reasonably priced and you get a lot for your money too, and wash it all down with a small cup of refreshing lemongrass tea at the end.”

For more on Rome with and without kids – here are the must-see tourist attractions and cheap pizzerias.

And if you fancy visiting more than one Italian city, one travel expert reveals the very clever way to see five in one day.

Rome can be a tourist trap – but there are plenty of non-busy and authentic places tooCredit: Getty Images – Getty

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My toddler met Santa at the UK’s biggest grotto and loved 3 unexpected things

centre:MK shopping centre in Milton Keynes hosts the UK’s ‘biggest’ indoor Christmas grotto, featuring Santa visits, Peter Rabbit characters, festive rides and magical light displays for families

There’s something rather apt about Milton Keynes, the host of the UK’s ‘largest’ indoor Christmas grotto.

The new town – officially recognised as a city from 2022 – has its fair share of critics, but the reality of MK is that it’s not all as it seems. What initially strikes you as a concrete jungle upon arrival in Central Milton Keynes is actually a lush, vibrant and expansive city teeming with vast green spaces and waterways.

So, those visiting the city’s premier shopping centre – centre:MK, once the longest undercover mall in Europe – might find the location of the Christmas grotto a bit peculiar. But we locals know the real deal – and it’s enchanting.

A visit to the grotto is an absolute must for our little clan. It’s my three-year-old’s third visit, while our youngest is experiencing Christmas for the first time.

He was understandably puzzled by the parade that marches through centre:MK to officially usher in the festive season. But his older brother particularly loved the ‘big people’ – elves on stilts – that accompanied Santa’s sleigh.

This visit was also our eldest’s inaugural encounter with Santa in a grotto setting. And it’s safe to say, he was absolutely thrilled.

Middleton Hall – a spacious, typically open area within the centre – often undergoes transformations depending on the season. In the summer, it morphs into a beachside retreat, for instance.

But come the festive season, it truly comes to life. This year, it has been reimagined as ‘Starlight Square’, where festive sights and sounds can be enjoyed free of charge until January.

There are numerous standalone light displays to marvel at, including a massive mushroom you can stroll through, a charming water fountain with a pair of singing reindeer my son is obsessed with every year, and more Christmas trees than you could possibly count. The centre’s glass walls create an illusion of infinite lights, adding to the enchantment.

Then there are the rides – featuring a rather delightful little train that takes you around some of the illuminated installations. A nostalgic Victorian-style carousel, costing £3 per ride, is a lovely nod to the past, while a VR sleigh ride brings you right back to the present with plenty of family fun for £6 per person.

All these elements combined to create a special, unforgettable day for our family. My Christmas-obsessed toddler thoroughly enjoyed the train ride – which, at £2.50 per person, could have been a bit longer – and the helter skelter will be one to look forward to in the future at £2 per slide or £3 for two slides.

But there’s so much to see and savour while wandering around the lights that it makes it more than worthwhile. That was the recurring theme from our time at Starlight Square.

The main attraction, however, was Santa’s Grotto itself. We were greeted at the entrance by lively elves who really helped make the experience magical for the children.

After being ushered inside a quaint display home, we took our seats to hear tales of missing Christmas gifts from Peter Rabbit’s mother. Shortly afterwards, a secret passageway was unveiled – much to my son’s delight, as he crawled through with great enthusiasm.

Characters from Peter’s tales came alive alongside the elves as we crafted and decorated gingerbread biscuits to present to Santa. As that session concluded, we were graced with a visit from Peter Rabbit himself, who was a delight for all the excited children.

Then came the moment we’d all been eagerly anticipating. After strolling through a brightly illuminated corridor to heighten the suspense, we entered Santa’s Chamber and met Father Christmas himself.

A cosy living room setting greeted us, and Santa was warm and inviting – particularly towards our usually talkative son, who had momentarily become a bit bashful. Once he mustered the courage to wish Merry Christmas and thank Santa for a gift – I won’t ruin the surprise, but it was apt for our experience – we took a photo and headed back to Starlight Square.

Having attended this festive event every year since relocating to MK in 2018, I felt somewhat overqualified to critique it. So instead, I’ll let the sparkle in my son’s eyes narrate the tale.

Some of the prices are a tad high – a family of four would have to shell out £24 just for the virtual sleigh ride, which is hard to justify considering the often long queues. Meeting Santa would set the same family back at least £30, depending on the age of your youngest member.

But, without wanting to sound overly sentimental, it’s easy to be swept up in the festive spirit. Seeing the joy on your little ones’ faces as they explore this enchanting indoor wonderland is nearly priceless.

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Why the Dodgers are biggest spenders, and winners, in sports

Step into the Dodgers’ team store, turn to the right, and you’ll be staring at Shohei Ohtani.

Not in person, of course. But amid all the jerseys and caps and T-shirts, there is a commercial playing on a loop, with Ohtani waving his fingers through his hair and winking as he displays the product he is endorsing: the top-selling skin serum in Japan.

“Take care of your skin,” the narrator says. “Live life to the fullest.”

Life is good at Dodger Stadium. In the store at the top of the park, you can buy a bottle of skin serum that retails for $118, or World Series championship gear including T-shirts and caps for $54 and up, hoodies for $110 and up, and cool jackets for as much as $382.

If you’re a fan of any team besides the Dodgers, you might despise all the money they spend on players. On Friday after the Dodgers introduced their latest All-Star, closer Edwin Díaz, I asked general manager Brandon Gomes if they really could buy whatever player they wanted.

“Our ownership group has been incredibly supportive, so if we feel like it’s something that meaningfully impacts our World Series chances, we’ve had that support all the time,” he said. “We’re fortunate to be in that position.”

The Dodgers’ owners spend money to make money, and they wisely hired Andrew Friedman a decade ago to tell them where to spend their money. Sounds simple, but some owners do not spend money wisely, and some do not spend money, period.

And sometimes you do both, and it just does not work out.

In the last decade the Dodgers have made the playoffs every year. Take a guess: What other Los Angeles pro team has made the playoffs the most during the last decade?

It’s the Clippers — eight playoff appearances, no championships and now a disaster.

The Dodgers have won three championships over the last decade. You might not remember that the Dodgers’ owners were ridiculed within the industry for spending $2 billion to buy the team in 2012.

At the time I asked co-owner Todd Boehly how he would define successful ownership of the Dodgers.

“You’re not really asking me that, are you?” he said then. “The more World Series we win, the more valuable a franchise it is, right?”

The Dodgers were valued at $8 billion last year by Sportico.

They signed Díaz for three years and $69 million. I asked Gomes what winter signing he recalled as the biggest during the five years he pitched for the Tampa Bay Rays.

Andrew Friedman, left, and Dodgers general manager Brandon Gomes welcome Edwin Díaz.

Dodgers president of baseball operations Andrew Friedman, left, and Dodgers general manager Brandon Gomes welcome star closer Edwin Díaz during his introductory news conference Friday.

(Allen J. Schaben / Los Angeles Times)

In 2014, he said, the Rays signed closer Grant Balfour: two years and $12 million — after the Baltimore Orioles withdrew a two-year, $15-million deal following a physical examination.

It’s not just the Rays, or even the small markets. The New York Mets’ spending rivaled the Dodgers last season, but the Mets missed the playoffs and lost free agents Díaz, Pete Alonso and Tyler Rogers this week alone. The New York Yankees sound oddly supportive of a salary cap. The Boston Red Sox and Chicago Cubs talk like big-market teams but do not spend like them.

At the Angels’ team store Friday morning, five customers looked around the team store, where all jerseys sold for 50% off. The attraction at the store Saturday: photos with Santa.

The Angels have not made a postseason appearance since 2014, and their acquisitions so far this offseason: a formerly touted infield prospect once traded for Chris Sale, a talented young pitcher who missed this past season because of injury and another pitcher who finished third in Cy Young voting in 2022 but has not pitched in the majors in more than 18 months. They’ll likely pay those three players less than $4 million combined.

In March, Anaheim Mayor Ashleigh Aitken invited Angels owner Arte Moreno to join her in “an open and honest conversation about the future of baseball in Anaheim.”

This week when the future of the Angel Stadium site came up during an Anaheim City Council meeting, Aitken mused about asking city residents “how much of a priority is it to have the land tied up with a baseball franchise,” Voice of OC reported. (The Angels’ stadium lease extends through 2032, and the Angels have the right to extend it through 2038.)

So consider this a timely holiday reminder for Dodgers fans to give thanks for this ownership group, for what the Dodgers are doing now is exceptional and extremely rare.

It would be nice if the Dodgers made more of a commitment to family affordability — and also if the Dodgers did not charge $102.25 for “an iconic photo op with the 2024 and 2025 World Series trophies” — but their attendance nonetheless hit 4 million for the first time.

This is a Dodger town, and the team is the toast of the town. The Dodgers are the biggest winner in American pro sports right now.

The owners are winners too. On Thursday, Boehly’s company staged its holiday party, and the musicians included Eddie Vedder, Bruno Mars, Anthony Kiedis, Brandi Carlile and Slash. Live life to the fullest, indeed.

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