I visited the new Virgin Atlantic destination set to be huge with historic palaces, dance classes and £2.50 beers
WE’VE all gone a little K-razy – with Brits obsessed with K-pop, K-drama and K-beauty.
So it’s no wonder Virgin Atlantic chose to launch new direct flights to South Korea’s cool capital Seoul.
From the music legends BTS and Netflix hits KPop Demon Hunters and Squid Game to the latest in advanced skin treatments, would my first trip live up to the hype?
After a whistlestop three days, I can definitely say yes — it was all I thought it would be and so much more.
The journey from Incheon International Airport to the city centre was eye-opening as we rattled along a highway next to the great expanse of the Han River that splits the city into its historic northern half and glitzy southern districts.
In the shadows of the countless skyscraper apartment blocks, locals gather on the riverfront’s parks, walking trails and cycling paths.
And this high-tech capital of endless high rises and neon-lit streets is also home to ancient palaces and surprisingly tranquil green spaces.
Locals and tourists alike flock to the five grand Joseon-era palaces and if you wear a Hanbok — the traditional Korean clothing — admission to them all is free.
While it may seem a little odd to us, embracing the traditional garb is actively encouraged and there are plenty of boutique rental shops surrounding the palace district that will, for a small fee, dress you head to toe in the brightly coloured garments and even braid your hair.
With little time to waste, we went straight from the plane to the palaces.
Top tip: plan your days carefully.
The magnificent main palace, Gyeongbokgung, is closed on Tuesdays, while the nearby Changdeokgung shuts its gates on Mondays.
We spent time wandering Changdeokgung’s ancient courtyards — just make sure to book ahead if you want to see its famous, tranquil Secret Garden.
Next morning, it was time to shake off the jetlag and embrace modern Seoul with a K-Pop dance class in the city’s university district.
Our incredibly patient instructor walked us through a routine to the Saja Boys’ hit Soda Pop, from Netflix’s KPop Demon Hunters.
The 90-minute session was an absolute blast, and even someone with two left feet like me could just about pick up the moves — albeit I was a few beats behind the music!
More modern-day Korean fun came next with a visit to one of the flagship Olive Young K-beauty stores in the Myeong-dong shopping district.
You’ll find smaller stores on almost every street corner here, packed with Korean beauty products from floor to ceiling.
The trick is to do your research before you go — it can be overwhelming looking at the overflowing aisles but you can score amazing bargains, with some products just a third of the price you’d pay in the UK.
Next up was another Korean trend that has taken social media by storm — colour analysis.
Stepping into a deliberately all-white room, your personal stylist will assess the colours that suit your skin tone best.
While I am sure the colours picked for me suited the Korean aesthetic — you’ll rarely see very bright tones on locals strolling streets by day or night — I felt they missed the mark.
After my colour analysis, we stumbled across the Roof Cat Me cafe which, as a feline fan, was a must.
The £10 entry fee included unlimited drinks for the humans — and the chance to chill next to some of the most beautiful pedigrees, all of whom appeared extremely happy with their spotlessly clean, custom-built hangout.
What surprised me the most was the great value — and warm welcome — we got everywhere we went.
While the efficient metro system costs just 80p per journey, it was also very easy to grab an Uber — and journeys were a fraction of the price we’d pay in the UK.
Download the Naver app to get around though, as Google and Apple maps are limited to public transport routes.
Food and drink was also very reasonable.
Local beers cost just £2.50 and you can even enjoy unlimited beef Korean barbecue for around £15.
And what’s more important, even at night I felt completely safe on the buzzing streets of bars, clubs and restaurants.
There is none of the edgier atmosphere you can get in big cities.
We ticked one last thing off the bucket list with a trip to the Gangnam southern district — known for its upscale shopping and nightlife made famous by the original smash-hit song from Psy.
There was just time to pose under the giant Psy hands statue outside the COEX mall before it was back to the airport and I was boarding my Virgin Atlantic flight home to London.
My feet were tired but my skin was glowing.
Seoul is a dizzying, delightful mix of old and new — and it more than lives up to the hype.
GO: SEOUL
GETTING THERE: Virgin Atlantic flies daily from Heathrow to Seoul with fares from £889 return.
See virginatlantic.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Mondrian Seoul Itaewon are from £130 per night.
For details see mondrianhotels.com.
OUT & ABOUT: Real K-Pop Dance class is close to Hongik University, £37.50, realkpopdance.com.
Colour analysis at Colorize Seoul, Myeong-dong and Gangnam, £68, colorizestore.cafe24.com.
