ancient

Ancient UK market town full of independent shops is gateway to spectacular drive

It’s the perfect place if you like a combination of adventures and chilling out, taking in the gorgeous scenery.

A historic market town in the UK is definitely worth a visit this spring, as there’s so much to see and do there. It’s ideal for adventure seekers, and those who just want to walk around, eat good food and chill out.

Tregaron is one of Wales’s oldest market towns. It’s home to independent retailers, coffee shops, and the elegant Y Talbot, a grade II-listed hotel, pub, and restaurant, positioned right in the town square’s centre.

From here, you can embark on an exhilarating road trip along a former drover’s track that showcases hairpin turns through wild terrain.

The Abergwesyn Pass is a 20-mile single-track route stretching from Llanwrtyd Wells to Tregaron. Along this isolated road, you’ll encounter a notorious stretch called “The Devil’s Staircase”, reports Wales Online.

This appropriately named portion of the Abergwesyn Pass features hairpin curves and sharp climbs that aren’t suited to anxious motorists.

For adventurous drivers, you’ll love tackling one of Wales’ most isolated countryside regions, encountering sheep, gnarled trees and rocky formations along the way. It’s extremely steep, reaching a maximum gradient of 20.1%, and cuts through thick woodland towards miles of expansive, barren valleys, providing a descent that will push your brakes to their absolute limits.

Drive carefully and enjoy the scenery as you meander through the wilderness of the Cambrian Mountains, where you could potentially encounter nobody throughout your entire journey. You can also tackle this route by bicycle if your legs are ready for the test.

As well as the Abergwesyn Pass, Soar y Mynydd, Wales’ most isolated chapel, is worth the detour. This modest, whitewashed church was constructed in 1822 to minister to an extremely dispersed community of farmers.

Wandering through this tranquil location, you could easily assume the chapel has been deserted for years. Actually, visiting preachers travel from across Wales to hold services in Welsh.

It’s a serene spot for a picnic, as there’s often nobody else there.

Llyn Brianne Reservoir also deserves a stop to witness an enormous dam. You might be surprised to learn that this striking stone-built dam is Britain’s tallest, rising 91 metres (300 ft) above the River Tywi.

Containing an incredible 64 million cubic metres of water at almost 300 metres (990 ft) above sea level is a remarkable engineering achievement. Building work began in October 1968, with the dam constructed from crushed rock, larger stone, and clay sourced from the surrounding area.

After dark, it becomes a stargazing hotspot in the Cambrian Mountains, making it an excellent location for astrophotography.

Further south, beyond Llyn Brianne reservoir, lies the amazing RSPB Gwenffrwd-Dinas reserve. The reserve encompasses vital habitats of oak woodland, wet alder woodland, and scrubland, all defined by heavy rainfall and swift-flowing rivers.

These conditions are ideal for woodland birds, whilst also offering the perfect environment for significant lichens and bryophytes. Whether you begin or finish the route at Tregaron, you should make time to discover this small Welsh-speaking town. Here, you’ll discover a livestock market, the Tregaron Red Kite Centre and Museum, and locally sourced food and cask ales in a beautifully converted 16th-century Welsh inn.

Y Talbot is an independently owned hotel and Michelin Guide-listed restaurant with 2 AA Rosettes. This charming boutique hotel radiates a ‘cosy country inn’ atmosphere with its slate floors and inglenooks.

The location is said to be the final resting place of a circus elephant which perished in 1848 and lies beneath what is currently Y Talbot’s beer garden.

The establishment, run by head chef Dafydd, who trained under Marco Pierre White, showcases regional ingredients, including lamb, beef, and cheeses sourced from the Teifi Valley, fish from Milford Haven, and shellfish from Cardigan Bay.

Close by, you’ll also discover a neglected Welsh abbey where princes lie buried. Strata Florida Abbey near Tregaron is a remarkable location in Wales where history, royalty, and spirituality meet.

Established in 1201 by white-robed Cistercian monks, this hallowed ground was formerly among medieval Wales’s most vital religious and cultural hubs.

It also serves as the burial site of numerous Welsh princes, including the renowned Llywelyn the Great, who famously convened a council here to guarantee his son Dafydd’s position as the legitimate successor to the Welsh throne.

The Abbey was established as a major institution serving the indigenous population of Wales and Western Christianity through its affiliation with the pan-European Cistercian Order of Monasteries.

The carved west doorway into the Abbey remains standing in isolation and provides an eternal vista down the nave towards where the high altar formerly stood.

You can still see some of the decorated tiles that would have adorned the church floors, along with elaborate carvings throughout the site.

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The affordable road trip that is Europe’s best-kept secret with seaside towns and ancient cities

WHILE prices for the most popular Mediterranean resorts keep ­rising, you can get the same ­turquoise seas, mountain drives and warm hospitality in Albania – for a fraction of the cost.

Visit in the shoulder season and you’ll enjoy golden light and near-empty beaches at an unhurried pace.

The town of Berat is nicknamed ‘city of a thousand windows’Credit: Getty
Enjoy paddleboarding on crystal clear watersCredit: Getty

Flying in to capital Tirana makes a good start for a road trip to explore the country.

Pick up a hire car at the airport and within minutes you’re twisting through mountain passes, gliding along coastal bays and pulling over in centuries-old towns.

Highways are good, but off the main roads expect to be swerving around goats and making stunning switchback turns. It’s all part of the adventure.

Your first major stop is the Unesco World Heritage town of Berat.

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White Ottoman houses stack up the hillside like sugar cubes, their wooden shutters glinting in the sun, giving it the nickname “city of a thousand windows”.

You can stay inside the Berat castle walls, living among ancient ramparts while children play football in cobbled lanes and grandmothers sell olive oil at their doorsteps.

It feels like stepping into another century.

Just outside Berat lies Alpeta Winery, run by the Fiska family.

The vineyards grow local grape varieties and the owner, Peter, walks among the tables at dinner, greeting guests and sharing his stories of the vines.

The wine-tasting tour takes you through reds, whites and fruit brandy rakia, ­partnered with local cheeses and olive oil.

This is Albania’s farm-to-table story in full swing.

After this, most tourists seeking sun and sea will race to Saranda, but Vlora makes a brilliant, less crowded alternative.

From here, you’re just a short drive from the Green Coast, home to some of the most beautiful beaches in Albania.

Turquoise coves framed by pine-covered hills and crystal-clear shallows rival anywhere in the Med.

Back in the capital, Tirana surprises with its creative energy, street art and cafes.

Park in the vibrant Blloku district.

The mountains that overlook capital TiranaCredit: Getty

Once reserved for the elite, it’s now buzzing with nightlife, bars and restaurants.

The city is dotted with thousands of Cold War-era bunkers which have been cleverly repurposed into museums, cafes and art spaces.

Don’t miss Bunk’Art 1 and Bunk’Art 2, immersive museums that give a striking insight into Albania’s communist past.

And be sure to climb the Pyramid of ­Tirana, a former communist landmark now converted into a lookout offering panoramic city views.

After dark, the city comes alive.

I went to Albania Night, and it is hands down one of the maddest immersive cultural shows I’ve experienced.

Tirana surprises with its creative energy, street art and cafesCredit: Getty

Guests can dress up in traditional ­Albanian outfits, dance until their feet nearly give out and become part of the ­performance.

Albania is evolving fast.

Live music, laughter and street-side festivities turn ­Tirana into a playground of culture and energy.

There are new coastal roads, boutique hotels are appearing in heritage towns — and word is starting to spread.

But key to its appeal is that it still feels under the radar.

Albania isn’t the “new Croatia” or the “next Greece”.

It’s got its own story — ­rugged, authentic and full of surprises.

From fortress towns perched on hillsides to empty coves by the sea, and from vineyard dinners to city nights that refuse to quit, you can have the kind of road trip that really stays with you.

If you’re chasing adventure, authenticity and excellent value for money, Albania is waiting, keys in the ignition.

GO: ALBANIA

GETTTING THERE: Wizz Air flies from Gatwick and Luton to Tirana (under three hours).

Fares start from £19 each way.

See wizzair.com.

GETTING AROUND: Book your car rental through Wizz Air and receive up to ten per cent credit back.

STAYING THERE: The centrally-located 4H Hotel Elisa Tirana has rooms from £75 per night including breakfast.

See melia.com.

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