Amsterdam

Is there anything better than a good old British pub? Well, a Dutch person may prefer a bruine kroeg (brown bar). Often nondescript from the outside and thus easy to miss, these cosy, homely, rustic cafe-style bars typically have plain dark-wood furniture, candles on the tables, aged knick-knacks and faded pictures. There will be dim lighting, usually from antique-style lamps, and they make ideal hubs – they are often referred to as a “surrogate living room”.

The name comes from the venues’ tobacco-stained walls and ceilings, which since the smoking ban started in 2008 have been topped up by dark brown paint. Beers and jenevers (Dutch gins) are the most popular drinks, and snacks such as bitterballen (meat ragout croquettes), boiled eggs and borrelnootjes (nuts with a crispy coating) are often available too. The choice of background music is a vital component; soft vintage jazz is ideal, so when I visited Cafe ’t Hooischip the Michael Jackson and Culture Club soundtrack jarred somewhat with the cosy, historic setting.

These drinking rooms used to be all-male hangouts, but today everyone, young and old, flocks to them. Few places encapsulate Dutch culture and tradition like the bruine kroegen. But in recent years they have come under threat from ever-rising rates, property prices and modern bars that are able to generate greater income.

They are still found throughout the Netherlands but it is estimated that more than a quarter have closed since 2010. That said, those I visited in the centre of Amsterdam (the city has the highest density, and boasts hundreds) appeared to be thriving.

This one, in the Jordaan district, has the usual enticing brown bar attributes and features a cute curved wooden staircase leading to a cubby-hole room above with further seating. The crowd is mainly Dutch, but I deduct a point because it feels a little too polished for a brown bar. Even worse, the English couple next to me are discussing their Ocado order for their return to London, which completely ruins the ambience. 7/10

It is delightful to approach a building so wonky that the leaded windows are positioned at a striking slant. So it is disappointing to then learn that the previous owner of Café Pieper installed them on purpose to accentuate the historic feel of this venue, which has been trading since 1665. That’s the main quandary when embarking on a brown bar crawl – how much of the old-time feel is genuine, how much is manufactured?

However, once inside the small, low-ceilinged venue, which seats about 25 with room for a few more at the bar, there is a lovely feeling of gezelligheid (conviviality) and cosiness. Locals tend to visit in the evening, tourists in the day. It’s heartening to see that here, as in most of the brown bars I visited, there’s a strong contingent of young people.

“It’s like a second home for our regulars; we know exactly what they like to drink,” says manager Chag Walvisch, who was a regular himself for 10 years before being asked to work here two years ago. “They appreciate the considerably higher service level you get in a brown bar. We are always welcoming and relaxed about guests starting a tab rather than having to pay each time they buy a round – that sort of thing. You can come here alone and easily get into a conversation; you just don’t get all that in a normal bar. We had some Americans come in for four days in a row last week because they loved it so much.” 8/10

It’s quite remarkable that a bar so homely, cosy and frozen in time is only moments from Centraal Station at the end of Warmoesstraat, one of the most garishly touristy streets in Amsterdam, stuffed with fast-food restaurants and neon signs.

Dating from 1519, it’s among the oldest bars in Amsterdam, with a name that translates as “in the monkey”, apparently evolving from when sailors would return from the East Indies with pet monkeys, sometimes paying their tabs with them, and as a result the bar would be full of apes. Around the dark, wooden bar are displays of vintage clay beer bottles, a model boat – and lots of statues and posters of monkeys, of course.

“There’s no threat to brown bars, at least in the centre of the city,” says bartender Richard Krelekamp, as he pours me a Wolf white beer for €6, although two of those euros seem to be for froth, due to the way beers in these parts are served with a big head. “If anything, more and more people are coming here,” says Krelekamp. “They are fed up of fancy bars and expensive cocktails they’ve never heard of. About half of our customers are tourists, the other half locals.” 8/10

From the outside, Café Eijlders looks like any touristy cafe, but step inside and you are transported back to the 1940s, when it opened as a meeting place for Dutch artists, writers, and bohemians in occupied Amsterdam. Centred around the semicircular bar, where stools, chairs and banquettes fan outwards, are two raised tables.

The colour scheme is in various shades of dark brown and dark red, from the burgundy upholstery on the chairs to the garish and dated floor tiles. A soundtrack of Nina Simone and Nat King Cole plays softly in the background. There’s not a tourist in sight despite this bar being metres from the hellish tourist trap that is Leidseplein. 7/10

Considered to be the smallest bar in Amsterdam, Café De Dokter has no more than 20 seats in total. The chandelier above my head, covered in dust and cobwebs, has a Miss Havisham vibe, while there’s no way of telling the time from the clock on the wall as it is so deeply layered in grime. There are several paintings, but again I have no clue what they depict due to the heavy layers of dust. The ceiling and walls look as if they haven’t been cleaned since the place opened in 1798.

And that is exactly why I love it – Café De Dokter oozes character. I love it even though the woman at the bar is terse, whereas all the staff I’ve encountered at other brown bars have been very friendly. Despite the dust, the glasses are spotless, and the floor and furniture sparkling clean. And there’s some sleepy vintage jazz playing, which is entirely appropriate for the setting. 9/10

The trip was provided by I Amsterdam. Eurostar has direct trains from London to Amsterdam from £57. Hotel Jakarta has doubles from €218 B&B; Conscious Hotel Museum Square has doubles from €114 room-only

FANCY a mini-break but don’t want to spend too much money? Well, how about a short cruise to Europe for the same price as a meal at Pizza Express for a family of four.

Travellers can head off on a two-night cruise between Hull and the Netherlands.

The P&O Ferries mini cruise allows you to travel overnight, usually leaving Hull at around 8:30pm and arriving in the Netherlands around 8:45am.

You can opt between heading to Rotterdam or Amsterdam on a return sailing from Hull to Europoort, with two nights in an en suite cabin, return coach transfers into the city centres and the live entertainment on board.

In between you will also get to explore either Rotterdam or Amsterdam – all for just £65 per person.

For example, one £65pp sailing heads off on March 3 and returns on March 5.

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Included in the price you pay is a two-bunk cabin with an en suite shower room with a WC.

Towels and bed linen are included too.

There are of course add-ons, if you wish to include them – such as the kitchen dinner for £25 per person, which is a buffet of international dishes.

If you fancy breakfast on board, that will set you back £13.50 each too.

Or you could get a package for both dinner and breakfast for £35.95 per person.

Though it is worth baring in mind, these prices are all per way.

Coach transfers from the port to either Rotterdam or Amsterdam are listed as £12 per person, per way – though they are included in the £65 per person price.

The cities of Amsterdam and Rotterdam in the Netherlands are both great to explore for a day.

In Rotterdam, you can head to one of the maritime museums to learn about its history as a port city.

Then, you could swing by the Cube Houses, known for their unusual architecture.

Opposite the Cube Houses you will find Markthal, which is a large market hall home to around 96 food stalls.

Alternatively, if you choose to head to Amsterdam you can explore the intricate network of canals that sprawl across the city.

One of the most popular tourist spots in the city is the Anne Frank House, which is a museum inside the actual house where Anne Frank hid during World War II.

To explore the canals further, you can also hop on a canal tour via boat.

If you fancy an even more memorable sailing you can head on a Mini Cruise Live.

These cruises have different entertainment onboard, often including celebrities.

For example, you could head on a Noughties Takeover cruise from February 27 to March 1.

On board, the entertainment includes JLS star Marvin Humes and Blazin’ Squad star and former Love Islander, Marcel Somerville.

This sailing costs from £139 per person.

With the family? Then head on the Family Cruise from April 8 to 10, with K-Pop Live and Cirque: The Greatest Show – a circus-musical experience with songs from The Greatest Showman, La La Land, Rocketman and Moulin Rouge.

There will also be face painters on board, and tickets to this sailing also cost from £139 per person.

Fancy something a little different? Head on the Murder Mystery Mini Cruise from March 4 to 6.

On board, passengers will get to enjoy two murder mystery experiences with Cheeky Blinders on night one and 1925-based mystery The Maiden Voyage on night two.

This sailing costs from £99 per person.

In other cruise news, the ‘affordable luxury’ Nordic cruise where temperatures hit 28C.

Plus, our pick of the eight best cruises for both hot and cold weather – from Caribbean sailings to Icelandic glacier tours.

Amsterdam has long been the go-to destination for a final night of freedom, but research has shown that a new city has emerged as the top spot, while another destination is fast catching up

Amsterdam may have been dethroned as the king of stag do destinations. According to research analysing search trends, the number of people searching for information on stag dos in the Netherlands’ capital has plummeted by 77% since 2023.

Party organisers, Sofia Stag Do, put together a list of Europe’s top ten stag destinations based on the number of searches over the past two years. Its rankings saw Amsterdam plummet from being the top destination in 2023, to number six in 2026.

Unsurprisingly, Prague took the top spot. While interest was down slightly in this Eastern European city, its combination of lively nightlife, cheap pints, and a beautiful Old Town kept it at number one. However, at number two is a city that has seen a steady increase in interest, and may not be the first location that springs to mind when planning a stag party.

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Riga in Latvia is becoming increasingly popular among stag parties, and there’s likely a combination of factors that have pushed it up the charts. Firstly, it is easy to get to from the UK. Flights take as little as two and a half hours, and Ryanair flies to Riga International Airport from East Midlands, Edinburgh, Leeds Bradford, London-Stansted, and Manchester, with fares from as little as £14.99 one way.

Riga’s compact size is also ideal for groups who want to enjoy a bar crawl or go for a night out without needing to get expensive taxis home. The liveliest nightlife can be found in Old Riga, an area full of historic buildings, town squares, and cobbled streets. You’ll find a huge number of bars tucked away, from stylish spots to fun themed places with drink deals.

Some spots to look out for include Secret Event, an underground bar set in a former monastery, and the Tiki Bar Riga, where you can enjoy colourful cocktails. If you’re doing fancy dress, head to Clayton McNamaras Drinking Emporium, a superhero-themed bar full of retro memorabilia that offers a range of shots named after comic characters.

Many bars open until the small hours, but for those who don’t want to head to bed just yet, weekends see a range of nightclubs opening their doors until dawn. Poseidon’s Club comes highly recommended for fans of EDM and stays open until 5am on Friday and Saturday nights. Teritorija has two rooms offering house and techno, while Bacio Riga offers a range of DJ sets and drink deals.

One thing potential stag parties always want to know is the cost of a pint. Riga can’t quite compare with the cheap beer prices of Prague, where you can often find pints for under £2. Pints generally cost £3-4 in the old town, but you can often find drink deals which bring down the prices.

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Riga also tends to offer cheaper accommodation than Prague, and it’s walkable, so you may find that overall a stag do in Latvia could work out cheaper than going to Prague.

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