Algarve

I visited the quieter side to the Algarve with barely-known islands and world-famous coastal paths

JUST off the Algarve coast, near Faro, is the Ilha Deserta.

This literally means “deserted island”, but there was no going hungry when I hopped on a boat to this unique spot.

There is a quiet sandy island just off the Portuguese coastCredit: Supplied
Jill took a trip to Ilha DesertaCredit: Supplied
Praia Do Canal Nature Retreat is a five-star hotel set in the heart of the Vicentine Coast, offering tranquillity and relaxationCredit: Supplied

Call me Jill Robinson Crusoe, if you will.

Alongside seven kilometres of gorgeous white sand, the island is home to just one building – the fish restaurant Estamine.

And every dish on the menu is worth the trip alone.

My delicate, buttery, grilled sea bass was cooked to perfection and served with roasted potatoes and vegetables.

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The choice is dizzying, with everything from giant carabinero prawns and Atlantic lobster to crispy sand shrimps and Grandma’s squid stew.

Reached by boat taxi in around 15 minutes, the restaurant has stunning views of the Atlantic from its floor-to-ceiling windows.

Afterwards, you can sunbathe beside the crystal-clear waters, or take a peaceful stroll while trying to spot the rare birds and chameleons that frequent the island.

If, however, you prefer something a little more fancy, you can enjoy a catamaran trip around the Ilha Deserta, which is part of the Ria Formosa Natural Park — a coastal lagoon stretching 60km from Faro to Manta Rota.

I sailed with a local company called iSea and have to admit, sitting on deck with a glass of prosecco and the sun on my face was a highlight of my trip.

But if you don’t have the sea legs for a boat trip, the Algarve has plenty for you to enjoy on dry land.

Faro itself has a marina and historic old town with cobbled streets.

And here, you can delve into fabulous Portuguese cuisine at Tertulia Algarvia, which is set in an historic whitewashed building.

Alongside cooking classes, craft workshops and cooking demonstrations, it serves up some real classics.

Fish restaurant Estamine sits on the sandy shoresFpraiCredit: Unknown

There’s still plenty of seafood, from octopus rice to grilled golden bream, but a standout on the menu was the chicken piri-piri.

This original grilled chicken dish comes with a spicier marinade than your local Nando’s as well as a huge portion of crispy chips, all for just £12.60.

Meat dishes are as big a deal as seafood and fish across much of the region, and I was always spoilt for choice when it came to getting my daily fix of protein.

One of my favourite places was in Aldeia da Pedralva — a rural village which has been lovingly rebuilt after many of the buildings were left in ruins.

Now, most of the village buildings are available as accommodation to hire, but the main restaurant, Sitio da Pedralva, is a destination in itself thanks to its incredible farm-to-table offerings.

From succulent wild boar to melt-in-your-mouth pork cheeks, it was a true meat lover’s paradise.

As well as the meat dishes, the chef also serves another classic dish from the region, bacalhau no pao — creamy cod served in a rustic, hollowed-out crusty-bread bowl. Delicious.

After all that food, I needed a walk and, thankfully, a short drive away was a stunning coastal route which makes up part of the Fisherman’s Trail.

Covering 226km from Sao Torpes (near Sines) to Lagos, it is considered one of the best coastal paths in the world.

Along the way, it offers views of dramatic, rugged cliffs that drop off into incredible turquoise waters, and waves that keen surfers seek to ride.

If you want to see the sights but don’t fancy a hike or walk, a Jeep tour is another fun option — and I did a morning trip with Sagres Discovery.

Our charismatic driver took us off-roading to the western Algarve, including Sagres and Cape St Vincent Lighthouse — one of the most powerful in Europe.

All the adventure, food and sea air can certainly make you feel sleepy and, thankfully, I had the perfect place to stay a little further along the coast.

Praia Do Canal Nature Retreat is a five-star hotel set in the heart of the Vicentine Coast, offering tranquillity and relaxation, not to mention incredible decor and attention to detail.

A brief glance at the delicious grilled fish menuCredit: supplied

With an infinity pool, yoga classes and exceptional food in its restaurant, it’s perfect if you want to reconnect with nature — and yourself.

The huge rooms also offer a shower that is bigger than my entire bathroom at home, massive beds and views across the rolling hills to the Atlantic Ocean.

But if you want to stay closer to the action and not somewhere as remote as Praia Do Canal Nature Retreat, Faro is a great place to base yourself.

I finished my stay in the region with a couple of nights at 3*B Faro, the only five-star hotel in the downtown area of the city, and just a short walk from the old town and marina.

With a rooftop infinity pool and terrace, as well as indoor spa facilities, the hotel offers some quiet calm once you’ve finished a day of exploring the region.

The Algarve is also a top destination for wine lovers, and a trip to a local vineyard is a must for any itinerary.

I enjoyed a lovely lunch and afternoon at Morgado do Quintão — a family-owned vineyard that also offers a farm-stay experience if you want to linger a little longer.

The estate offers guests a farm-to-table experience with a wine flight from its collection, which has revived the indigenous Negra Mole grape.

It is known for having an unusual variation of grape colour within the same bunch.

I had the chance to try a white, rose and red during my visit, all while enjoying fine views of the vineyard and the imposing 2,000-year-old olive tree which sits in the grounds.

I left the Algarve with a totally different perspective.

From deserted islands to delicious dishes, I’d encourage anyone to go and enjoy every tasty morsel of it for themselves.

GO: Algarve

GETTING THERE: There are multiple daily flights to Faro from most UK airports with British Airways, Ryanair, easyJet, Wizz Air and Jet2. Fares start from £29 return in May.

STAYING THERE: Double rooms at the Praia do Canal Nature Retreat are from £209, including breakfast.

See praiadocanal.pt.

Rooms at the 3*B Faro start from £148 per night.

See 3hb.com.

MORE INFO: See visitalgarve.pt.

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Portugal’s ‘Silver Coast’ that is cheaper than the Algarve with £1.08 beers and pretty surf towns

EACH year around 1.4million Brits head to Portugal’s Algarve – so why not explore a quieter Portuguese gem that is cheaper?

Portugal’s Silver Coast – also known as Costa de Prata – stretches for 155 miles from central to western Portugal.

Portugal’s Silver Coast stretches for 155 milesCredit: Getty

And it offers several different holiday types.

Think dramatic landscapes to be explored, beaches to sunbathe on and historic towns to investigate.

Spanning from north of Lisbon to near Porto, the Silver Coast tends to be less crowded than the Algarve.

One spot you can head to is Nazare, known for having the world’s biggest surfable waves.

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The old fishing town features a long, crescent shaped beach with white sand and crystal clear water.

And this is one of the spots in the town where you will find surfers tackling huge waves.

In fact, it is the Nazaré Canyon that is the largest underwater canyon in Europe, that produces the town’s colossal waves.

Away from the water, the town also has a lot of narrow streets to explore with cosy restaurants serving fresh seafood.

For example, you could head to Restaurante Maria do Mar, which is the best-rated restaurant on TripAdvisor in the area, serving ‘Maria do Mar’ fish stew for just €9.50 (£8.20).

Surfers should also head to Ericeira, which is another popular surf town.

It is widely known as the ‘surfing capital of Europe‘ and is home to one of only two World Surfing Reserves in Europe.

If you are not a surfer, then simply enjoy the town’s beautiful beaches such as Praia dos Pescadores (Fisherman’s Beach) or Praia do Norte.

There’s also Obidos, which has a charming, medieval walled town.

In the picturesque town you can walk through Moorish gates and see colourful houses covered in bright pink flowers in summer.

Across the coastline, there are a number of towns and cities to explore including one spot dubbed the ‘Venice of Portugal’Credit: Getty

The medieval walls encircle the entire village, which you can explore.

There’s even a spot that is dubbed the ‘Venice of Portugal’ – Aveiro.

The nickname comes from the colourful boats that sail down canals in the town.

Originally, the boats – called moliceiros – were used to carry seaweed that had been harvested, but now they offer tours to visitors along the canals and past Art Nouveau buildings.

In the Old Town, you’ll find cobblestone streets with small fish and coastal images embedded into the cobbles.

Make sure to visit Ponte dos Laços de Amizade (Bridge of Friendship Ties) where couples tie ribbons on to the bridge.

And definitely grab some Ovos Moles which are sweets from the area.

They are egg yolk and sugar mixed together and then moulded into different shapes, like seashells.

Drop by Confeitaria Peixinho, the oldest Ovos Moles shop in Aveiro, which has been running since 1856 – each Ovos Mole costs about €1.60 (£1.38).

You can also see a village full of striped housesCredit: Getty

Nearby Aveiro there is another spot worth visiting called Costa Nova.

Here you will find rows upon rows of colourful striped beach cottages.

Elsewhere along the Silver Coast, you can visit the coastal village of Foz do Arelho and two beaches created by a saltwater lagoon.

Both feature white sand and are the ideal places to go paddleboarding.

If you want to grab a bite to eat, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants along the promenade.

Several of the pubs and bars along the Silver Coast sell beers for €1.25 (£1.08), like at Marcianus 3.0 in Foz do Arelho, where you can pick up a bottle of Imperial beer for this price.

One of the towns is home to the biggest surfing waves in the worldCredit: Getty

Depending on where you wish to go on the Silver Coast, you can fly into either Lisbon or Porto Airports.

One-way flights from the UK to Lisbon or Porto cost as little as £15 per person in April.

Also, depending on where you want to visit, there are a number of different accommodation options.

The average cost for a night in a four-star hotel in the region costs between £65 and £80.

For more places to explore in Portugal, there’s a secret side to the country that has just been crowned one of the best places in Europe to visit this year.

Plus, the pretty city that was the birthplace of the first king of Portugal that is set to be big this year.

And flights to the region can cost as little as £15 one-wayCredit: Getty

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