I went to the quiet Greek island without the party crowds
BEFORE I headed to the Greek island of Alonissos, a waiter in neighbouring Skiathos told me: “It’s too quiet there, I prefer to party here.”
Now I was looking forward to the trip even more.
While most tourists tend to land at Skiathos airport and stick to that lively destination, many are making the short ferry ride to Alonissos or Skopelos, where scenes for 2008 film Mamma Mia! were shot.
These two beautiful islands rising out of the Aegean sea offer alternatives to bars and restaurants blasting out music from competing sound systems.
My first stop was the relatively untouched Alonissos.
With just 5,000 beds for tourists and 3,000 locals living on this slender, 12-mile-long island, I was immediately struck by how quiet and unhurried everything is.
Even though there is only one main snaking road, I hardly encountered another car.
And at the first beach I tried, Agios Dimitrios, to the north of the island, the chatter on the sun loungers was soft, no phones rang and no music disturbed the peace at the closest taverna.
The tourists had sensibly decided that the pristine turquoise waters, facing another island so that you might think you are in a lake, were captivating enough.
Other beaches to lay your towel on include the crescent of pebbly sand at Kokkinokastro, backed by towering red cliffs, and Chrisi Milia, with its shallow water.
Further down the coast, the tiny port of Kalamakia is well known for its fresh fish restaurants.
One such restaurant is Corali, overlooking the tranquil bay and run by two sisters. They served us the delicious local specialty — a cheese pie, which is fried rather than baked.
Up above the main port of Patitiri, its old town, thoughtfully rebuilt following a 1965 earthquake, is pedestrianised and you won’t be harassed by scooters while attempting to navigate the steep stone steps.
Rarely have I relaxed into holiday mode so quickly on a break.
If you want maximum splendid isolation, join Albedo Travel’s day trip to meet the sole monk living at a 17th century clifftop monastery on the otherwise uninhabited Kyra Panagia island.
With 90 per cent of the guests at the Atrium hotel where I stayed hailing from Britain, it is clear that I was not alone in wishing to escape the crowds
The excursion, which takes in three breathtaking swimming stops, is led by the white-bearded maritime entertainer Captain Pakis, who has honed his patter such as “GMT time is Greek Maybe Time” to perfection.
If you are more adventurous, Alonissos has become a popular scuba-diving spot due to the presence of a 5th century BC shipwreck 66ft underwater.
The island is also home to Europe’s first national marine park, established in 1992 to protect the endangered population of Mediterranean monk seals.
With 90 per cent of the guests at the Atrium hotel where I stayed hailing from Britain, it is clear that I was not alone in wishing to escape the crowds.
This lovely little hotel’s hillside location means there are stunning sea views from all of the rooms.
Travellers seeking a middle ground between party Skiathos and quiet Alonissos can opt for Skopelos, which sits between them.
Chic pool area
With 30,000 tourist beds and 4,500 locals, it is far more developed, with busy bars, coffee shops and restaurants vying for your custom at the harbour to the main port, Skopelos town.
One of the big attractions is its connection to hit musical Mamma Mia!, starring Meryl Streep and Amanda Seyfried.
As I sat on a small coach waiting for my four-hour Mamma Mia! tour of the island to begin, I started to get nervous because the music sounded like someone had asked ChatGPT to play Abba in a Greek style.
Every detail of the boutique hotel and spa has been immaculately planned, from the modern take on colonial styling to the best breakfast buffet I’ve experienced
But Dolphin Of Skopelos’ trip proved to be enormous fun, taking in Saint John’s Chapel’s 199 steep steps, which Donna (Streep) climbed for the wedding of Sophie (Seyfried), and Kastani beach, which was the backdrop to the Does Your Mother Know sequence.
The tiny Saint John’s church has incredible views that shouldn’t be missed.
The party vibe is more obvious here, with a DJ on the decks at the bar behind Kastani.
But when I drove to Panormos beach on another day, the atmosphere was relaxed as a waitress brought drinks to the free sun beds in front of the serene bay.
And at the new 5-star Minno hotel in Skopelos town, the chic pool area makes you feel you’re winding down with the jet set.
Every detail of the boutique hotel and spa has been immaculately planned, from the modern take on colonial styling to the best breakfast buffet I’ve experienced.
The restaurant offers fine dining for a price comparable to burger and chips in a London pub.
If you are looking for amazing food, quiet, clean beaches and welcoming locals you should be saying I Do, I Do, I Do to both islands.