Tucked away in the English Channel between England and France, Sark is often described as the jewel of the Channel Islands. Saskia Rowlands took a trip to Sark to see for herself
Sark sits between England and France (Image: Saskia Rowlands)
We’re told time travel is impossible.
But after spending a day on the tiny island of Sark, I wasn’t so sure.
Tucked away in the English Channel between England and France, the island is often described as the jewel of the Channel Islands. With no cars, winding country lanes and horse-drawn carriages, it feels like stepping back to the 1950s. My mum and I visited during a stay in nearby Guernsey – and months later, we’re still talking about it.
Getting there was an adventure in itself. After surviving a very choppy ferry crossing from Guernsey, we pulled into Sark’s tiny harbour. Walking through a stone archway, we were greeted by one of the island’s most charming traditions, the ‘toast rack’ – a tractor-drawn carriage that ferries visitors up the steep hill into the village.
As we trundled through the winding lanes, lined with hedgerows bursting with wildflowers, the stresses of life vanished. The only sound was the distant clip-clop of horses’ hooves and the occasional ding of a bicycle bell. There wasn’t a single car in sight. And that’s because there aren’t any. Private cars have never been allowed on Sark and are actually banned by law.
The only motorised vehicles permitted are tractors – used for farming, deliveries and transporting visitors – and a tractor-pulled ambulance. Instead, Sark’s 500 residents and visitors explore the island by bicycle, on foot or by horse and cart.
So in true local spirit, we headed to Avenue Cycles, where we hired two mountain bikes. With maps tucked into our baskets, our Sark adventure had officially begun. The island measures just 3.5 miles long and 1.5 miles wide, so you can easily explore every nook and cranny in a day. There are no paved roads, and the tracks are quite rocky, so it’s not the smoothest ride, but it all adds to Sark’s charm.
Our first stop was one of the island’s most famous landmarks, La Coupée – a narrow strip of land connecting Big Sark and Little Sark. The dramatic isthmus, formed from sedimentary rock, is now protected by railings, but it wasn’t always so safe. Until 1900, there were no barriers at all, and on windy days, local schoolchildren would reportedly crawl across on their hands and knees.
It’s easy to overuse the word “breathtaking,” but standing above the bright blue sea as waves crashed against the rocks below genuinely took our breath away. Repairs meant we could only walk halfway across before turning back, but it was still one of our highlights.
Back on our bikes, we headed for another of the island’s quirky attractions, Sark Henge. Built in 2015, the modern stone circle is made up of nine standing stones, each carefully aligned with either a local landmark or the position of the sun, marking the winter and summer solstices and spring and autumn equinoxes.
After taking a moment to soak up yet another spectacular view, we began feeling peckish, so we made our way to Sark’s one and only supermarket to pick up lunch. More like a traditional village shop than a supermarket, we were surprised by just how much was packed inside, including an impressive selection of Waitrose products.
We kept things simple, picking up freshly caught Sark crab, lemon and cress, and a packet of crackers before finding a bench next to Sark’s famous gold Royal Mail post box. We visited just before the island geared up for its busy summer season, but the stylish café Sark Yard looked like the ideal place to stop for coffee or lunch when it’s open.
No trip to Sark would be complete without a visit to Caragh Chocolates, one of the island’s best-loved spots. What began as owner Caragh’s hobby of making chocolates for her family in 1989 has since grown into an internationally acclaimed business.
The charming stone cottage chocolate shop makes its treats using cream from Sark cows and also has a café overlooking a pretty garden. We parked our bikes outside and headed in for cups of Earl Grey and chocolates. It was superb.
Sadly, our time on Sark was drawing to a close, but there was just enough time for one final stop at Lorraine’s Pottery and Silver Studio. Run by local artisan Lorraine Nicolle, the charming little workshop sells hand-thrown stoneware and silver trinkets, along with offering pottery lessons.
After one last cycle through Sark’s winding lanes, our adventure had come to an end. We wheeled our bikes back and made the walk down to the harbour, where the ferry was waiting to take us back to Guernsey.
As we looked back at the island disappearing into the distance, it was hard not to wish we could stay just a little longer. Sark felt like somewhere out of a storybook. Its magic will never leave us.